Villa Crespi

Via Giuseppe Fava, 18

28016 Orta San Giulio (NO) Italy

Phone: +39 0322 91192

BY ANTONIO GALLONI | APRIL 17, 2026

The Food:

Ricciola in Carpione (Marinated Amberjack)

Scampi Nudi; Infusione Mediterranea alla Pizzaiola, Emulsione di Polpo (Raw Scampi, Mediterranean Infusion Pizzaiola-style, Octopus Emulsion)

La Melanzana, la Mandorla ed il Pomodoro (Eggplant, Almond and Tomato)

Linguina di Gragnano; Calamaretti, Salsa di Pane di Segale (Linguine from Gragnano; Baby Squid, Rye Bread Sauce)

Rombo, Orto e Conchiglia; Millefoglie di Taccole all Monachina, Latticello e Olio di Rucola (Turbot, Garden and Shellfish; Snow Pea Millefeuille, Buttermilk, Arugula Oil)

Cilindro di Pasta; Carne alla Genovese, Faggiolini Marinate e Alle Brace (Pasta Cylinder: Braised Beef; Marinated and Grilled String Beans)

Il Cioccolato e le sue Sfumature (Chocolate and its Variations)

The Wines:

NV Krug Grande Cuvée 173ème Édition	95
2015 G.B. Burlotto Barolo Acclivi	94
2021 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Echézeaux Grand Cru	93

Lago d'Orta is one of Italy’s hidden jewels, far off the normal tourist itineraries that have made some destinations far too crowded to enjoy. Villa Crespi sits confidently on its shores, an oasis of relaxation and a temple to the very finest Italian hospitality. 

The stunningly preserved Villa Crespi was built in 1879. Its Moorish-inspired exteriors are somewhat surprising at first, but then very relaxing. There is a feeling of timelessness here that is palpable. The interiors are just as striking—elegant and refined, yet also welcoming. The hotel offers just 14 rooms. I have never stayed here, but after this visit, I will make every effort to rectify that. 

Chef Antonino Cannavacciuolo, one of Italy’s most celebrated chefs, holds court. His three-star restaurant is among Italy’s hottest destinations, and with good reason. The restaurant at Villa Crespi is the crown jewel in the group of establishments he operates with his wife, Cinzia Primatesta. Cannavacciuolo was born in Vico Equense, in Campania. His strong accent is rich in southern inflections, and his culinary influences are wider-ranging from stints spent working in France. Cannavacciuolo is quick to add that he has spent just as much of his life in Northern Italy as he has in the South. Even so, roots are roots, and this cuisine delivers plenty of nostalgia. Villa Crespi offers two tasting menus, plus à la carte options. We were fortunate to enjoy a menu that drew on both. 

Wine Director Massimo Raugi has spent his career working throughout Europe and the United States, with stops at many prestigious locations, including Enoteca Pinchiorri in Florence, The Ritz Hotel in Paris and the since-shuttered El Racó de Can Fabes in Barcelona and Del Posto in New York City. The list at Villa Crespi is befitting of its luxurious setting. Guests who take the time to peruse will find some very fairly priced wines. Alternatively, the by-the-glass selection is interesting. On the night I visited, Lodali’s Barolo Lorens was one of the options. 

Dinner starts with a selection of amuse-bouches that are all divine. What better way to celebrate than with a glass of Champagne? Krug's NV Grande Cuvée 173ème Édition, based on the 2017 vintage, is every bit as exceptional as it was the last time I tasted it a few months ago. Beautifully textured, the 173ème offers a captivating mix of floral and tropical notes, with gorgeous richness and fabulous balance. Time in the glass softens the mid-palate nicely. Dinner is off to a great start.

Marinated Amberjack; Seasonal Vegetables and Flowers, Rice Vinegar Extraction. 

Ricciola in Carpione (marinated amberjack) is a take on a classic preparation in which freshwater fish is prepared in a vineyard and onion marinade. Here the fish is served with seasonal vegetables and flowers, then finished with a rice vinegar extraction. That’s about as refined as carpione gets. The flavors are so bright and refreshing. 

Raw scampi is a signature Cannavacciuolo dish. Sweet scampi are served over a tomato velouté inspired by the tomato conservas Cannavacciuolo grew up with as a child in Campania. The dish is finished with a rich octopus water emulsion, a sort of mayonnaise made from the liquid that is left after cooking octopus. Southern influences abound.

Raw Scampi, Mediterranean Infusion Pizzaiola-style, Octopus Emulsion. 

That theme continues with La Melanzana, la Mandorla ed il Pomodoro, which is bursting with deep southern inflections. A strip of eggplant forms the outer ring of a terrine filled with almonds and rich tomato.  This is both incredibly intense and refreshing. A culinary tour de force. Linguina di Gragnano is another signature dish. In this case, the starting point was finding a way to use leftover rye bread from the prior evening’s cheese service. It’s a reminder that so many classics of the Italian kitchen begin with very humble roots and creative uses for leftovers that harken back to the days when food was scarce. Cannavacciuolo pairs the sauce with sweet, briny baby squid over perfectly al dente linguine that are on the thicker side, all the better for holding all that flavor. What’s not to love? I’m left wondering if there is any chance I could repeat this at home. Maybe I can do a quick internship in the kitchen.

Linguine from Gragnano; Baby Squid, Rye Bread Sauce. 

The 2015 Burlotto Barolo Acclivi is superb. At ten years of age, it is still deeply colored and incredibly young, almost shockingly so. I taste the Acclivi every year and buy it, but I don’t seem to get to it as often as I do the other Burlotto Barolos. That’s a mistake. The 2015 is so impressive. It offers a whole range of Verduno floral/spice notes married to a slightly darker expression of fruit than most vintages. Tonight, it is exceptionally beautiful. Domaine de la Romanée-Conti’s 2021 Echézeaux Grand Cru is impossible to resist. I am pleasantly surprised to see how open it is. A wide array of floral and savory top notes open first, leading into a gentle mid-palate and an equally restrained finish. Of course, the 2021 will be even better in a few years’ time, but it is very special on this evening. Bottles from the domaine are so often seen in large tastings shared with many people. It’s a real privilege and luxury to drink this bottle with just one person, a rare opportunity to follow the wine over several hours with no rush.

Turbot, Garden and Shellfish; Snow Pea Millefeuille, Buttermilk, Arugula Oil. 

The Turbot is one of the most complex presentations of the evening. Turbot is lacquered with seaweed butter and topped with shellfish and a morsel of grilled tripe. Accompaniments are a snow pea millefeuille, buttermilk and arugula oil. A piece of breaded, lightly fried cheek is served on the side. I suppose the Pasta Cylinder is technically the “main course,” but we are in Italy, so it’s back to pasta. I am not complaining. This dish consists of a cylinder of cooked pasta (my guess is bucatini or something similar) filled with Carne alla Genovese, a rich preparation that sits between a braise and a true sauce. Marinated and grilled string beans are a perfect accompaniment, as they add freshness and acidity to play off the richness of the pasta.

Pasta Cylinder: Braised Beef; Marinated and Grilled String Beans. 

Il Cioccolato e le sue Sfumature is a very rich and delicious chocolate tart. I am not a huge dessert person, but this is just superb and creative, as are the smaller mignardises that follow.

Chocolate and its Variations. 

Service is extremely friendly and professional throughout. I have only one real critique, and that is that the pace fell off dramatically after the savory courses. I have seen this in other places as well. Perhaps the main kitchen and the staff feel the hardest part of the evening is done once the savory courses are down, but that’s far from the case. If anything, it is critical to finish on a high note, as the last memories of an evening are most likely to be those guests take with them. That said, this is a small critique, and one that is easily addressed, if desired. I would have no hesitation to return to Villa Crespi. Readers will find a calm oasis of everything that defines the very finest in Italian culture, gastronomy and hospitality.

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