Haiti Charity Dinner

Eleven Madison Park

11 Madison Ave,

New York, NY 10010

(212) 889-0905

Wine:

1999	Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia	95
1999	Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino	97+
1996	Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia	92
1996	Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino	97
1990	Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia (#1)	94
1990	Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia (#2)	97
1990	Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino	98
1985	Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia	92
1985	Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia Riserva	95
1985	Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino	96
1971	Giacomo Conterno Barolo	?
1971	Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Speciale Monfortino	98
1961	Giacomo Conterno Barolo	96
1961	Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Speciale Monfortino	92
1958	Giacomo Conterno Barolo	?
1958	Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino	94
1937	Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva	88

I visited Haiti a number of times when I was a young boy. As a child growing up in Latin America I often saw a level of poverty that was heartbreaking, yet in Haiti things always seemed worse than in other places. For that reason I was especially struck by the news of the devastating earthquake that struck the country earlier this year. Kudos to Eleven Madison Park, The Rare Wine Company and the Giacomo Conterno winery, who came together to put on this fabulous charity event to help the victims of the earthquake. It would be great to see more restaurateurs, importers, wineries and all of us who have the privilege of making a living in food and wine embrace initiatives such as this.

Readers will know how much I respect and admire the cooking of Executive Chef Daniel Humm. I opted for the vegetarian menu for a change, and was not disappointed. In fact, I didn’t miss the meat at all. It didn’t hurt that Humm’s menu was rich in eggs, mushrooms and truffles. What’s not to like? I certainly wasn’t complaining. Some of my favorite dishes included the Tardivo Trevisano Salad, the Knoll Krest Farm Egg and the Lynnhaven Farms Goat’s Milk Ricotta Gnocchi. Vegetarians will flip out over the food at Eleven Madison.

The Rare Wine Company’s founder and owner Mannie Berk was on hand to lend his invaluable commentary to the evening. Roberto Conterno spoke eloquently about his family and their wines. For Conterno, making wine isn’t a profession but rather a way of life handed down from generation to generation. Conterno clearly feels the wines to a degree matched by only a handful of his peers.

We started with a magnificent pair of 1999s. This has always been one of my favorite Piedmont vintages, and the wines did not disappoint. The 1999 Barolo Cascina Francia opened with a beautiful, expressive bouquet that melded into a powerful, deep core of fruit. It was a superb Barolo, so much so that the next day I bought another case! The 1999 Barolo Riserva Monfortino was utterly explosive, mesmerizing and flat-out monumental. Though many, many years away from peak, the 1999 remains a breathtaking Monfortino.

I admit I was less enamored with the 1996 Barolo Cascina Francia. This wine was hard as nails when it was first released and remains unyielding. Perhaps I have had bad luck, but I am beginning to think that the 1996 may never fulfill its potential. The 1996 Barolo Riserva Monfortino came across as far more harmonious, with a gorgeous, rich core of fruit that balanced the firm 1996 tannins with wonderful class. Of course wines go through periods of being more or less closed, but on this night the 1996 Monfortino was head and shoulders above the Cascina Francia, something that was far less obvious in vintages such as 1999 and 1990.

The 1990s were both sensational. Actually, we had three 1990 Barolos. Conterno did not make any Barolo in 1991 and 1992. In order to stretch out their 1990s over these vintages Conterno left one lot of the 1990 Barolo Cascina Francia in barrel a year later than normal. So, there are two different bottlings of the 1990 Cascina Francia*. Unfortunately we didn’t know that before the wines were decanted, so we had to deduce through tasting which might be which. I am not sure we got it right, but the first 1990 was rich, seductive and very representative of the vintage, while the second bottle had more of everything. It was essentially a mini-Monfortino in its majestic expression of intensely perfumed fruit. The 1990 Barolo Riserva Monfortino, in turn, was simply off the charts. Rich, vivid and totally alive, the wine flowed effortlessly with endless layers of fruit. A liqueur-like sweetness accompanied the fruit through to the long, intensely satisfying finish. What a wine!

The three 1985s were equally fascinating. Conterno’s 1985 Barolo Cascina Francia was soft, forward and remarkably approachable. Sadly, this wasn’t a great bottle. The 1985 Barolo Cascina Francia Riserva more than compensated for that. It was magical. Intoxicating, heady aromatics melded seamlessly into ripe, candied fruit. Once again I was reminded of why the best 1985s are so pleasurable to drink today. The 1985 Barolo Riserva Monfortino was superb, but it shut down quickly in the glass after providing an initial glimpse of pure enjoyment. Such are the mysteries of wine. Still, it was a privilege to taste all three Conterno Barolos in the last (official) vintage that the Cascina Francia Riserva was made.

One of the things that always amazes me about Conterno is the continuity and consistency of the estate’s wines across generations. This is especially striking during the time when Conterno transitioned from buying fruit to owning their vineyards. The first wines in this tasting were all made from the family’s Cascina Francia vineyard in Serralunga, but wines prior to vintage 1978 were made from fruit purchased in Serralunga and Monforte. You would hardly know such an important change had taken place during these years by tasting the wines alone.

We tasted two bottles of the 1971 Barolo, neither of which I felt was representative of the heights this wine is capable of. That was soon forgotten when the 1971 Barolo Riserva Monfortino was served. For many tasters, including me, this was the wine of the night. Everything was simply in perfect place. Expressive aromatics, beautifully delineated, vibrant fruit and finessed tannins came together in virtuosic display of class. This was an emotional, riveting bottle that left most people in the room shaking their heads with bewilderment.

The 1961 Barolo was another highlight. This was one of the best bottles of the 1961 I have ever had. The deep color, intensity of the fruit and length were all phenomenal, while the wine’s balance was simply off the charts. The 1961 Barolo Riserva Monfortino was pretty, but not in anywhere near as pristine shape. It was a delicate, Burgundian Barolo with an enticing bouquet and delicate, perfumed fruit. Sadly, the 1958 Barolo was corked. The 1958 Barolo Riserva Monfortino was great. Rich, round and sensual, it caressed the palate from start to finish in grand style. As wonderful as it was, I preferred the wines of the 1970s and 1980s. The 1937 Barolo is a wine I have only had once before, but its caramelized, fleeting personality was a bit too ethereal for my taste.

* Bottles of the 1990 Barolo Cascina Francia that were shipped to the US through official channels were all from the original release, but no lot number is indicated on the label. Conterno released both versions of the 1990 Cascina Francia in Italy and in other markets. Bottles with a lot number beginning with 4 are from the lot that spent 4 years in oak, while bottles with a lot number beginning with 5 spent an extra year in cask.

Food:

Black Truffle Beignet with Truffle Remoulade

Porcini Mushroom Velouté with Parmigiano Reggiano

Tardivo Trevisano Salad with Buffalo Mozzarella, Aceto Balsamico and Terre Bormane Olive Oil

Violet Artichokes Sautéed with Black Truffles and Smoked Marble Potatoes

Knoll Krest Farm Egg Slow Cooked with Vin Jaune and Winter Mushrooms

Lynnhaven Farms Goat’s Milk Ricotta Gnocchi with Butternut Squash, Brussels Sprouts and Black Trumpet Mushrooms

Winter Root Vegetables Braised with Celery Root, Leeks and Black Truffles

Fromage d’Alpage Appenzeller & Cave Aged Gruyere

--Antonio Galloni