64 Goodge Street

64 Goodge Street

London W1T 4NF

Phone: 0203 747 6364

Nearest tube: Goodge Street (obviously)

BY NEAL MARTIN | SEPTEMBER 15, 2023

The Food:

Scallops, lentils & beurre blanc

Half a Basque chicken with girolles, tarragon & Savagnin (for 2)

Gâteau Marjolaine: Meringue, chocolate ganache & hazelnut

The Wines:

Restaurants named after their address…could that be due to a lack of inspiration? Instead, I like to think that it is a considerate gesture. No need to look up the address – you already have it. Of course, this meant that I sauntered straight past the front door of 64 Goodge Street since I presumed to know where Goodge Street is. Logically, it is where Goodge Street tube station is located, right? Well, now I know that Goodge Street tube station is, in fact, located on Tottenham Court Road. I guess the tube station down the road had already nabbed that name. Now enlightened about which thoroughfare is Goodge Street, I made my way back for a much-needed supper after a day marred by sad news that morning. Opportunity to raise a glass to a departed friend.

The 64 Goodge Street kichen

64 Goodge Street is part of the growing portfolio of London restaurants under the Woodland Restaurant Group, co-founded by Will Lander, that includes Quality Chop House, Clipstone, Portland and Emilia. Lander being the son of Jancis Robinson, it is no surprise that all feature strong wine lists. Lander’s latest addition opened in early August 2023, and like all his restaurants, it enjoys a very central location in Fitzrovia, in what was once a travel agency. It’s not a large restaurant. There is a ground floor with around 30 covers, a brightly-lit open kitchen at the far end and a basement that houses a swanky private room. The vibe is upmarket bistro, with dark olive-painted walls and low lighting, ensuring the interior feels cozy and lived-in.

Quoting directly from their website, 64 Goodge Street is “French cooking from an outsider’s perspective.” The head chef is Stuart Andrew, who started out at Portland eight years ago. It’s a straightforward à la carte menu with five or six choices per course, perhaps along the lines of Noble Rot or Wild Flor. Of all Landers’ restaurants, I probably like Andrew’s menu the most. It’s unfussy, nothing flashy or pretentious, but every dish is very well executed and hearty without being excessively rich. Execution is a facet of gastronomy that I have become sensitive to since spending time in Japan, where execution is paramount. I couldn’t fault the dishes.

Scallops, lentils & beurre blanc

I commenced with two scallops served with lentils and a beurre blanc. This was a delicious starter. The scallops were perfectly cooked, with just the right consistency, and the beurre blanc lent a little bite and frisson. The balance here was just right.

Half a Basque chicken with girolles, tarragon & Savagnin (for 2)

Together with my dining partners (one entering his final trimester…I’m glad he’s eating well even before he’s born), we opted for the shared half-a-Basque chicken with girolles, tarragon & Savagnin. One is naturally drawn to comparisons with Noble Rot Soho’s signature dish. I think they are both wonderful. Here, the chicken was moist and beautifully seasoned, the girolles reminding me that no fungi tastes as good, and the tarragon and Savagnin lending a background edginess to keep the dish on its tippy-toes.

Gâteau Marjolaine: Meringue, chocolate ganache & hazelnut

As good as those two were, the dish I really fell in love with was the dessert: the Gâteau Marjolaine, layers of meringue, chocolate ganache & hazelnut. This was a guilty pleasure, the hazelnuts sharp in flavor and offsetting the sweetness of the meringue (any more might have unbalanced the dish). It was perfectly prepared and comes highly recommended.

The wine list is excellent, as I expected, with a smattering of mature bottles, thankfully without gouging mark-ups and many wines available by either glass or carafe, the latter always helpful when, like me, I was not in the mood for over-indulging. There is a clear preference for Burgundy over Bordeaux with plenty of choices, no blue-chips growers, rather names with good reputations.

The sommelier recommended the 2018 Côte de Jura La Vouivre from Domaine des Carlines, and after a sip, I ordered a glass. This is one of those wines that I really tried my best to enjoy. The oxidative element hovers in the background on the nose, but I could live with that as the palate displayed freshness and an appealing nutty/smoky quality. As time went on, that oxidation began to grow on confidence and started to impede upon the flavors of my chicken. Maybe I just wasn’t in the mood. Instead, I switched to a 2014 Côteaux Bourguignons Les Glapignys from Domaine Guyon. This is a delicious Chardonnay/Pinot Blanc blend with pretty grapefruit, lime and orange pith scents on the nose. The palate is not complex yet is well balanced with commendable acidity, just a sliver of peachiness towards the finish. Unlike the Côte de Jura, it knows its place on the dinner table – to complement the food, not quarrel with it.

Overall, 64 Goodge Street is a welcome addition to the capital’s dynamic dining scene. Prices are reasonable, and the décor is tasteful and classy. I always like an open kitchen, and the service is absolutely top-notch. A central location and tempting wine list mean that oenophiles venturing to London will enjoy its take on Gallic cuisine. Plus, of course, no need to look up the address.

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