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900 Meadowood Lane
St. Helena, CA 94574
Tel 707 967-1205
March 2008
Meadowood is the posh resort located just off the Silverado Trail in Napa Valley. We arrived for dinner just as the sun was setting but did manage to get a few glimpses of the stunning property. The Restaurant at Meadowood had been closed for over three years, but was recently re-opened to much acclaim. The dining room itself is spacious and airy in design, adding to a relaxed country feel that will probably be most appreciated by readers who are accustomed to the frantic pace of city life, as I am. We opted for the Chef’s Tasting Menu, as I am always intrigued by trying to understand what makes a chef tick, and this menu seemed absolutely perfect for the wines we had chosen beforehand. Everything about this dinner was perfect. Chef Christopher Kostow’s menu was brilliant and consistent from course to course. The service was highly professional but never intrusive.
We started with Philipponat’s 1961 Clos de Goisses. It revealed delicate notes of mint, roasted coffee beans, caramel and candied apricots, with a delicate and highly nuanced personality. Though a beautiful wine, its best days seemed to be behind it. Still, it was a privilege to enjoy this deeply fascinating Champagne before dinner. Raveneau’s 1990 Chablis Les Clos was stunning. Smoke, minerals and citrus peel all flowed from the glass as this surprisingly opulent, rich Chablis continued to evolve throughout the night. It was an ideal match to the full-flavored, rich fish and seafood dishes on the menu, in particular the citrus cured Spanish mackerel, which was sublime. The foie gras and apple was incredibly delicious on its own, but even more so alongside a glass of the 1990 Chateau Climens, which offered an irresistibly sensual expression of exotic coconut, passion fruit, tangerine and mint. I loved the wine’s purity, understated elegance and sheer class.
I hadn’t tasted Rousseau’s 1993s in over a year, so it was great to get a progress report, although things haven’t changed much. These remain two exquisite Burgundies with another 20 years ahead of them, if not more. The 1993 Chambertin was a regal, aristocratic wine in every way. Still extremely primary, it offered up plenty of compellingly ripe, plummy fruit along with phenomenal length and beautifully well-integrated tannins. Though less extroverted and opulent than the Clos de Bèze, it offered greater elegance and polish. The 1993 Chambertin - Clos de Bèze presented a dark and more concentrated profile dominated by earthy and tarry notes that complemented its lush, generous fruit. This full-bodied, youthful wine came across as needing another decade of cellaring, but it was still magnificent on this night. Needless to say, it was great fun spending several hours watching these stunning wines develop in the glass.
Food:
Cold smoked toro and Osetra caviar
Foie gras and apple
Citrus cured Spanish mackerel
Lobster and sweetbread
Crispy confit of suckling pig
Poached grass fed beef
Herve Mons Fourme d’Ambert
Wine:
1961 |
Philipponnat Clos de Goisses |
89 |
1990 |
Raveneau Chablis Les Clos |
95 |
1990 |
Chateau Climens |
95 |
1993 |
Rousseau Chambertin |
95 |
1993 |
Rousseau Chambertin - Clos de Bèze |
94 |
[Photo and credit: The Restaurant at Meadowood, St. Helena, CA]
--Antonio Galloni
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- 2015
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- Vinous Table: Torre del Saracino, Vico Equense (Naples), Italy (Sep 2015)
- Vinous Table: La Ciccia, San Francisco, CA (Sep 2015)
- Vinous Table: Le Sirenuse Pool Bar and Grill, Positano, Italy (Aug 2015)
- Vinous Table: La Caravella, Amalfi, Italy (Aug 2015)
- Vinous Table: Bar Boulud, New York (Aug 2015)
- Vinous Table: ad hoc, Yountville, CA (Aug 2015)
- Vinous Table: Lo Scudiero, Palermo, Sicily (Jul 2015)
- Vinous Table: Jean-Georges, New York (Jul 2015)
- Vinous Table: Maialino, New York (Jul 2015)
- Vinous Table: Carbone, New York (Jul 2015)
- Vinous Table: Salumeria Roscioli, Rome, Italy (Jun 2015)
- Vinous Table: I Pupi Ristorante, Bagheria, Sicily (Jul 2015)
- Vinous Table: The Milling Room, New York, New York (Jun 2015)
- Vinous Table: Brasserie Lipp, Paris, France (Jun 2015)
- Vinous Table: Daniel, New York (Jun 2015)
- Vinous Table: Giuda Ballerino, Rome (May 2015)
- Vinous Table: Joël Robuchon Restaurant, Bordeaux (May 2015)
- Vinous Table: State Bird Provisions, San Francisco (May 2015)
- Vinous Table: Ristorante Quadri, Venice (May 2015)
- Vinous Table: Redd Wood, Yountville (May 2015)
- Vinous Table: Husk, Charleston (Apr 2015)
- Vinous Table: Pascucci al Porticciolo (Apr 2015)
- Vinous Table: Bâtard, New York (Apr 2015)
- Vinous Table: Loulay, Seattle (Apr 2015)
- Vinous Table: Rock Creek Seafood & Spirits, Seattle (Mar 2015)
- Vinous Table: Bofinger, Paris (Mar 2015)
- Vinous Table: St. John's, London (Mar 2015)
- Vinous Table, Maialino, New York (Mar 2015)
- Vinous Table: Canoe, Toronto (Feb 2015)
- Vinous Table: Marzapane, Rome (Feb 2015)
- Vinous Table: McCrady’s Restaurant, Charleston (Feb 2015)
- Vinous Table: California Classics at Bar Boulud, New York (Jan 2015)
- Vinous Table: Massimo Camia, La Morra (Jan 2015)
- Vinous Table: Restaurant La Galottière, Loire (Jan 2015)
- Vinous Table: l’Angolo d’Abruzzo, Carsoli (Jan 2014)
- 2014
- Vinous Table: Bar Boulud, New York (Dec 2014)
- Vinous Table: Miramonti l’Altro, Lombardy, Italy (Dec 2014)
- Vinous Table: Osteria Francescana, Modena, Italy (Dec 2014)
- Vinous Table: Ai Fiori, New York (Dec 2014)
- Vinous Table: Le Bernardin, New York (Nov 2014)
- Vinous Table: La Ciau del Tornavento, Treiso (Nov 2014)
- White Truffles, Barolo & Barbaresco (Nov 2014)
- Vinous Table: Press, St Helena (Oct 2014)
- Vinous Table: Glen Ellen Star, Glen Ellen (Oct 2014)
- The Vinous 2014 Guide to Eating and Drinking in Piedmont (Oct 2014)
- Cristal and Icons from Piedmont & Bordeaux (Oct 2014)
- Vinous Table: Ad Hoc, Yountville (Oct 2014)
- Vinous Table: Barolofriends Wine Bar, Barolo (Sep 2014)
- Vinous Table: Restaurant F and B, Beaune (Sep 2014)
- Vinous Table: Bistro de l’Hôtel, Beaune (Sep 2014)
- Vinous Table: Guido da Costigliole, Relais San Maurizio (Sep 2014)
- Vinous Table: Locanda ’800, Verona, Italy (Aug 2014)
- Vinous Table: Hostellerie des Clos, Chablis (Aug 2014)
- Vinous Table: La Piola, Alba (Aug 2014)
- Vinous Table: La Ciau del Tornavento, Treiso (Aug 2014)
- Vinous Table: Burgundy Charity Auction and Dinner (Jul 2014)
- Vinous Table: Relais del Sant'Uffizio, Asti, Italy (Aug 2014)
- Vinous Table: Musique & Vin (Jul 2014)
- Vinous Table: Le Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet (Jul 2014)
- Vinous Table: maze, London (Jun 2014)
- Vinous Table: Cappellano Barolos at the Four Seasons, New York (Jun 2014)
- Vinous Table: Mattei’s Tavern, Los Olivos, Santa Barbara (Jun 2014)
- Vinous Table: Boulud Sud, New York (May 2014)
- Vinous Table: Les Marchands Wine Bar & Merchant, Santa Barbara (Jun 2014)
- Vinous Table: Ora d'Aria, Florence, Italy (May 2014)
- Vinous Table: Ai Fiori, New York (May 2014)
- Vinous Table: Solbar, Calistoga (Apr 2014)
- Vinous Table: Chave Hermitage Vertical at Ristorante Morini, New York (May 2014)
- Vinous Table: Press, St. Helena, California (Apr 2014)
- Vinous Table: L’Univerre, Bordeaux (Apr 2014)
- Vinous Table: Marea, New York (Apr 2014)
- Vinous Table: L’Assiette Champenoise, Reims, France (Mar 2014)
- Vinous Table: Charity Dinner to Benefit the Frankie Lemmon School (Mar 2014)
- Vinous Table: Gasthof Krone, Alto Adige (Mar 2014)
- Vinous Table: Maialino, New York (Mar 2014)
- La Festa del Barolo 2013 Gala Dinner (Mar 2014)
- Vinous Table: Ai Fiori, New York (Feb 2014)
- Vinous Table: Barberian’s Steak House, Toronto (Feb 2015)
- Vinous Table: Castello di Grinzane Cavour, Piedmont, Italy (Feb 2014)
- Vinous Table: Le Bernardin, New York (Feb 2014)
- Vinous Table: Brooklyn Fare, New York (Jan 2014)
- Vinous Table: Bistro de l’Hôtel, Beaune, France (Jan 2014)
- Gala Dinner at the World Wine Symposium (Jan 2014)
- Vinous Table: Hurricane Sandy Charity Dinner at The Modern (Jan 2014)
- 2013
- Vinous Table: Lincoln Ristorante, New York (Dec 2013)
- Vinous Table: Mas Farmhouse, New York (Dec 2013)
- Vinous Table: Ai Fiori, New York (Dec 2013)
- Vinous Table: Aureole, New York (Dec 2013)
- Vinous Table: Piedmont Icons at Del Posto (Dec 2013)
- Vinous Table: The Night of the Forgotten Labels (Nov 2013)
- Vinous Table: La Ciau del Tornavento, Treiso, Italy (Nov 2013)
- Vinous Table: Centro Storico, Piedmont (Nov 2013)
- Vinous Table: Piedmont Gems from the Cellar (Oct 2013)
- Vinous Table: Cabernet Lovers of New York City (Oct 2013)
- Vinous Table: Park Tavern, San Francisco (Oct 2013)
- Vinous Table: Classic Napa Cabernets at Press, St. Helena (Oct 2013)
- School’s in Session – Dinner with Il Professore (Oct 2013)
- The Vinous Guide to Eating and Drinking in Piedmont (Sep 2013)
- Vinous Table: La Ciau del Tornavento, Treiso, Italy (Sep 2013)
- Vinous Table: Bistro de l’Hôtel, Beaune, France (Sep 2013)
- Vinous Table: Tavernetta all’Androna, Grado, Italy (Aug 2013)
- Vinous Table: La Subida, Cormòns, Italy (Aug 2013)
- Vinous Table: La Pineta, Livorno, Italy (Aug 2013)
- Vinous Table: Villa Bordoni, Greve in Chianti, Italy (Aug 2013)
- Vinous Table: Alla Dama Bianca, Trieste, Italy (Jul 2013)
- Vinous Table: Ma Cuisine, Beaune, France (Jul 2013)
- Vinous Table: Bistrot du Bord de l’Eau, Beaune, France (Jul 2013)
- La Festa del Barolo: Rare Wine Charity Dinner (Jul 2013)
- Vinous Table: Trattoria de Toni, Grado, Italy (Jul 2013)
- Vinous Table: Artisan, Paso Robles, CA (Jul 2013)
- Vinous Table: Thomas Hill Organics, Paso Robles, CA (Jul 2013)
- Vinous Table: Le Bernardin, New York, NY (Jun 2013)
- Vinous Table: Osteria Francescana, Modena, Italy (Jun 2013)
- Vinous Table: The French Laundry, Yountville, CA (Jun 2013)
- Vinous Table: Charlie Bird, New York (June 2013)
- Vinous Table: Les Avisés, Avize, France (Jun 2013)
- Vinous Table: La Rei, Serralunga, Italy (Jun 2013)
- Vinous Table: RN 74, San Francisco (Jun 2013)
- Vinous Table: Bistro de l’Hôtel, Beaune, France (Jun 2013)
- Vinous Table: Five Decades of Classic Napa Valley Cabernets at Press, St. Helena (Jun 2013)
- Vinous Table: Marea, New York (May 2013)
- Vinous Table: Solbar, Calistoga (May 2013)
- Vinous Table: NoMad (Jan 2013)
- 2012
- 1978 Piemonte Retrospective at Eleven Madison Park (Nov 2012)
- Vinous Table: Jean-Georges, New York (Sep 2012)
- The 2002 Burgundies at Eleven Madison Park (May 2012)
- Vinous Table: "Gourmand" menu at Eleven Madison Park, New York (Mar 2012)
- Vinous Table: Eleven Madison Park, New York (Mar 2012)
- Masseto Vertical at A Voce Columbus (Mar 2012)
- Vinous Table: Ristorante di Poggio Antico, Montalcino, Italy (Feb 2012)
- 9th Annual Wine Dinner and Auction to Benefit The Mount Sinai Hospital (Feb 2012)
- 2011
- Vinous Table: Blue Hill at Stone Barns, NY (Dec 2011)
- Fourth Annual White Truffle Charity Dinner (Nov 2011)
- Vinous Table: Marea, New York (Oct 2011)
- Vinous Table: Union Square Cafe, New York (Sep 2011)
- Vinous Table: The Four Seasons Restaurant, New York (Sept 2011)
- Vinous Table: Marea, New York (Sep 2011)
- Vinous Table: Solbar, Calistoga, California (Apr 2011)
- Vinous Table: Press, St. Helena (Apr 2011)
- La Festa del Barolo Gala Dinner at Del Posto (Mar 2011)
- Vinous Table: Dinner in the Kitchen at Eleven Madison Park, New York (Mar 2011)
- Vinous Table: Eleven Madison Park, New York (Feb 2011)
- 2010
- Vinous Table: Del Posto, New York (Dec 2010)
- Vinous Table: Da Nando, Friuli, Italy (Dec 2010)
- Bruno Giacosa Dinner at Bar Boulud, New York (Oct 2010)
- Vinous Table: Del Posto, New York (Oct 2010)
- Vinous Table: Locanda Verde, New York (Oct 2010)
- Vinous Table: Casual dinner at Del Posto, New York (Oct 2010)
- Vinous Table: Casa Lever, New York (Sep 2010)
- Bruce’s Birthday Bash 2010 (Jul 2010)
- Vinous Table: Marea, New York (June 2010)
- Vinous Table: Esca, New York (Jun 2010)
- Vinous Table: Dom Pérignon and Giacosa Verticals, Del Posto, New York (Jun 2010)
- Pazo Restaurant (Jun 2010)
- Haiti Charity Dinner (Jun 2010)
- Vinous Table: RN74, San Francisco (Mar 2010)
- Vinous Table: Petit Louis Bistro, Baltimore (Feb 2010)
- Vinous Table: Convivo, New York (Feb 2010)
- Vinous Table: Jean-Georges, New York (Feb 2010)
- Vinous Table: 1964 Dom Pérignon, Giacosa's 1989s & 1990s, Del Posto, New York (Jan 2010)
- Vinous Table: Eleven Madison Park, New York (Jan 2010)
- 2009
- Vinous Table: Ristorante Bovio, La Morra, Italy (Nov 2009)
- Vinous Table: La Rei, Serralunga d'Alba, Italy (Nov 2009)
- Italian Wine Weekend at Del Posto (Nov 2009)
- Third Annual White Truffle Charity Dinner (Nov 2009)
- Vinous Table: Marea, New York (Oct 2009)
- Vinous Table: Corton, New York (Oct 2009)
- Vinous Table: First night at Eleven Madison Park, New York (Oct 2009)
- Vinous Table: Second night at Eleven Madison Park, New York (Oct 2009)
- Vinous Table: Solociccia, Firenze, Italy (Aug 2009)
- Italy 1990 at Eleven Madison Park (Jul 2009)
- Bruce’s Birthday Bash 2009, Part 1 (Jul 2009)
- Bruce’s Birthday Bash 2009, Part 2 (Jul 2009)
- Vinous Table: Eleven Madison Park, New York (Jul 2009)
- Vinous Table: Alto New York (Jun 2009)
- A Taste of Champagne at Eleven Madison Park, New York (Jun 2009)
- 1970s Night at Babbo, New York (Jun 2009)
- Jackson Hole Wine Auction Charity Dinner at Alto (May 2009)
- Vinous Table: Matbaren, Stockholm, Sweden (Apr 2009)
- Vinous Table: Bar Boulud, New York (Apr 2009)
- Vinous Table: L’Oste Scuro, Verona, Italy (Apr 2009)
- Vinous Table: Il Calandrino, Padova, Italy (Apr 2009)
- La Paulée 2009 (Part 1) (Mar 2009)
- La Paulée 2009 (Part 3) (Mar 2009)
- La Paulée 2009 (Part 2) (Mar 2009)
- Vinous Table: Bellavitae, New York (Mar 2009)
- Vinous Table: Veritas, New York (Mar 2009)
- Vinous Table: The Modern, New York (Mar 2009)
- Vinous Table: Del Posto, New York (Feb 2009)
- 2008
- A Holiday Lunch (Dec 2008)
- 2nd Annual Barolo and White Truffle Charity Dinner (Dec 2008)
- Vinous Table: Eleven Madison Park, New York (Dec 2008)
- Vinous Table: Esca, New York (Dec 2008)
- Vinous Table: Asiate, New York (Nov 2008)
- Vinous Table: Bar Boulud, New York (Oct 2008)
- Dom Ruinart at Cru, New York (Oct 2008)
- Vinous Table: Ristorante Cracco, Milan, Italy (Sep 2008)
- Vinous Table: Eleven Madison Park, New York (Jul 2008)
- Bruce’s 50th Birthday Bash (Jul 2008)
- Vinous Table: Otto, New York (Jul 2008)
- Vinous Table: Bar Boulud, New York (Jun 2008)
- Vinous Table: La Ciau del Tornavento, Trieste, Italy (May 2008)
- Vinous Table: L’Aquila d’Oro, Dolegna Del Collio, Italy (May 2008)
- Vinous Table: Noble's Restaurant, North Carolina (May 2008)
- Vinous Table: Babbo, New York (Apr 2008)
- Vinous Table: Al Cacciatore - La Subida, Friulu, Italy (Apr 2008)
- Vinous Table: Asiate, New York (Apr 2008)
- Soldera Brunellos and 1979 Champagnes at Alto, New York (Apr 2008)
- Vinous Table: Le Dune, Friuli (Apr 2008)
- La Paulée de San Francisco (Mar 2008)
- Dinner at Home (Mar 2008)
- Vinous Table: Eleven Madison Park, New York (Mar 2008)
- Vinous Table: Daniel, New York (Feb 2008)
- Vinous Table: Alto, New York (Feb 2008)
- Vinous Table: Esca, New York (Jan 2008)
- Festa di Barolo (Jan 2008)
- 2007
- Vinous Table: Guido da Costigliole, San Maurizio, Italy (Nov 2007)
- The HANY Charity Dinner (Nov 2007)
- Dinner with Friends (Nov 2007)
- Vinous Table: Babbo, New York (Oct 2007)
- Vinous Table: Lunch with Friends (Oct 2007)
- Vinous Table: Al Cacciatore - La Subida, Friuli, Italy (Sep 2007)
- Vinous Table: Al Campiello, Friuli (Sep 2007)
- Jackson Hole Wine Auction Charity Dinner at Daniel (Aug 2007)
- Vinous Table: Bellavitae, New York (Aug 2007)
- Vinous Table: Locanda nel Borgo Antico, Barolo, Italy (Aug 2007)
- Vinous Table: L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon at The Four Seasons, New York (Jun 2007)
- Vinous Table: La Pizza Fresca Ristorante, New York (Jun 2007)
- Vinous Table: Da Cesare, Piedmont, Italy (Apr 2007)
- Vinous Table: The Four Seasons Restaurant, New York (Apr 2007)
- La Paulée de New York (Mar 2007)
- Vinous Table: Per Se, New York (Mar 2007)
- Bruno Giacosa and Giacomo Conterno at Della Notte, Baltimore (Jan 2007)
- 2006
- Dinner at Home with Le Macchiole (Dec 2006)
- A Holiday Lunch (Dec 2006)
- Vinous Table: La Bottega del Vino, New York (Dec 2006)
- Vinous Table: Le Calandre, Padova, Italy (Dec 2006)
- Vinous Table: Villa De Winckels, Verona, Italy (Dec 2006)
- Vinous Table: Esca, New York (Oct 2006)
- Vinous Table: Michael Mina, San Francisco (Oct 2006)
- Vinous Table: Da Cesare, Piedmont, Italy (Sep 2006)
- A Birthday Dinner (Sep 2006)
- Vinous Table: Centro Storico, Piedmont (Sep 2006)
- Vinous Table: Del Posto, New York (Mar 2006)