The Polo Bar

1 E 55th Street

New York, NY 10022

Tel: +1 212-207-8562

BY ANTONIO GALLONI | NOVEMBER 01, 2024

The Food:

Pigs in a Blanket; Spicy Brown Mustard

The Polo Bar Crab Cake; Thinly Crusted with Mustard Bell Pepper Sauce

Tuna Tartare; Avocado, Mustard Greens & Crispy Shallots with Soy Ginger Dressing

Santa Barbara Salad; Gem Lettuce, Avocado, Orange, Cilantro, Basil, Vermont Creamery Feta & Taggiasca Olives with White Balsamic Vinaigrette

Classic Caesar Salad; Gem Lettuce, Country Bread Croutons with Shaved Pecorino

Ralph’s Corned Beef Sandwich; Melted Swiss on Marbled Rye with Coleslaw

Loch Duart Salmon; Romanesco, Sugar Snap Peas & Green Beans with Meyer Lemon Butter Sauce

Dover Sole; Pan-Seared with Meyer Lemon Butter Sauce

Veal Milanese; Arugula, Fennel, Red Onion, Radishes & Cherry Tomato

The Polo Bar Santa Fe Burger; Caramelized Onions, Barbeque Sauce & Cheddar Cheese with Hand-Cut Fries

Filet Mignon; Onion Rings

Coconut Cake: Passion Fruit Sorbet

Ice Cream Sundae; Vanilla Ice Cream, Caramelized Pecans, Whipped Cream & Warm Chocolate Sauce

The Wines:

2019 Occidental Pinot Noir Running Fence Vineyard Cuvée Catherine     97
2021 DuMOL Pinot Noir MacIntyre Estate Vineyard 100
2021 Cobb Pinot Noir Coastlands Vineyard 96

The Polo Bar is one of my favorite spots in New York City. I realize that may sound somewhat pretentious, given that reservations are very hard to get. Even so, I love the Polo Bar because it screams of Americana and reminds me of my first trips to New York City as a kid when a few nights in Manhattan were the highlight of our family vacations. Back then, I was mesmerized by the raw energy of the city. I still am. For this article, I combined food and wines from several recent dinners.

Classic Caesar Salad; Gem Lettuce, Country Bread Croutons with Shaved Pecorino

The Polo Bar’s unassuming private entrance on East 55th Street is easy to miss. Ralph Lauren’s 5th Avenue store once occupied the corner space, but it closed in 2017. Reservations are absolutely essential, as the Polo Bar does not accept walk-ins. Guests are whisked into a sleek, elegant bar that is packed most of the time. I prefer the small back room, which is more private. It’s the perfect place to enjoy a drink before dinner. Stairs lead down to a bustling dining room decorated in the classic Ralph Lauren style. The tables are tightly spaced, and the acoustics are vibrant. In other words, the Polo Bar is probably not the best place for guests seeking quiet or privacy. On a recent visit, we were seated close to a well-known actor’s table. Her voice, undoubtedly well-trained, carried easily across the room.

Tuna Tartare; Avocado, Mustard Greens & Crispy Shallots with Soy Ginger Dressing

Diners will find a menu full of American comfort food classics, with a handful of more contemporary dishes mixed in. There aren’t a whole lot of surprises, though. That’s not what the Polo Bar is about. I come here mostly for the burger, occasionally fish, and then some sort of salad, so I feel better about the desserts later on. Because it is such a favorite of celebrities and the A-list crowd, it would be easy to dismiss the Polo Bar as more of a scene than a serious restaurant to think the food plays second fiddle. That is a mistake. I have always found that the Polo Bar’s kitchen delivers on the purely culinary level. Service is consistently outstanding. For example, when it’s just two of us, dishes like salads and burgers are split without us having to ask. The sommeliers are well-versed in the wines and a pleasure to talk shop with.

The Polo Bar Crab Cake; Thinly Crusted with Mustard Bell Pepper Sauce

Among the starters, Pigs in a Blanket is a fine choice for sharing. Ralph’s Corned Beef Sandwich, served on marbled rye, is as classic as classic can be. It is extremely rich, though, and best enjoyed as a shared appetizer. I can’t imagine finishing an entire portion. My preference, though, is for the seafood dishes. The Crab Cake is another fine choice. The flavorful Mustard Bell Pepper Sauce is a perfect foil for the sweet crab meat. The Tuna Tartare is delicious, light and also a nice departure from the more typical dishes that form the core of the menu. I order it often.

The salads are terrific. The Caesar is unfussy, nicely done and delicious. Who doesn’t love a good Caesar? The Santa Barbara Salad has a lot more going on in terms of its ingredients. Tender gem lettuce, avocado, orange, cilantro and basil all confer freshness that is a nice balance to the richer dishes on the menu.

The Polo Bar Santa Fe Burger; Caramelized Onions, Barbeque Sauce & Cheddar Cheese with Hand-Cut Fries

Carnivores will find plenty of options. The Polo Bar Burger is a must. Served with all the accompaniments and a generous portion of fries, the burger is a meal on its own. From time to time, the burger is offered in a few variants. The Santa Fe, which features caramelized onion, barbecue sauce and cheddar cheese, is one of my favorites.

Filet Mignon; Onion Rings

The Veal Milanese literally spills off the plate. I can’t imagine anyone eating all of this alone. A salad of arugula, fennel and cherry tomato is refreshing, but this is a big plate of food. For those who want to splurge, the Filet Mignon is a fine choice. Like everything here, it is cooked and seasoned to perfection. The onion rings are impossible to resist.

Veal Milanese; Arugula, Fennel, Red Onion, Radishes & Cherry Tomato

There are plenty of choices for those who prefer fish over meat. The Loch Duart Salmon, accompanied by romanesco, sugar snap peas and green beans, is tasty. The Dover Sole is served completely cleaned and fileted, making it very easy to eat. It’s another spurge item on the menu, but worth it.

DuMOL’s 2021 Pinot Noir MacIntyre Estate Vineyard is a total stunner

The wine list is extensive and priced in line with Manhattan standards. For some reason, on my last few visits, I have chosen Sonoma Pinot Noirs. That’s probably because the wines offer superb quality at prices that I find reasonable. The 2019 Occidental Pinot Noir Running Fence Vineyard Cuvée Catherine is every bit as magnificent as it has always been. Soft, plush contours wrap around a core of dark-toned fruit in a ravishing, deep Pinot endowed with tons of character. The Cuvée Catherine, from the Kistler family’s vineyards in Bodega, captures the magic of the West Sonoma Coast, namely the ability to deliver intense fruit richness and flavor are relatively modest alcohol levels. What a wine!

DuMOL’s 2021 Pinot Noir MacIntyre Estate Vineyard is one of the most profound, riveting wines I have ever had from any region. I knew it the minute I tasted it. Subsequent tastings have only confirmed that initial impression. Deep, racy and layered, the 2021 captures all the textural richness and vibrancy that are such signatures of cooler-climate districts in Sonoma. How can a wine be opulent yet also light on its feet? The MacIntyre is all that and more. It’s the sort of wine I wish every Vinous reader could taste. Unforgettable. Ross Cobb’s 2021 Pinot Noir Coastlands Vineyard has shut quite a bit since I tasted it earlier in the year. That’s probably a good thing for its long-term prospects. For now, though, readers need to be patient, as the 2021 needs time. It remains an exquisite, crystalline Pinot of the highest level. Chalk, mint, slate and orange peel cut through a core of red-toned fruit. This is an especially nervy style that will appeal most to readers who enjoy taut, cool-climate Pinots.

Ice Cream Sundae; Vanilla Ice Cream, Caramelized Pecans, Whipped Cream & Warm Chocolate Sauce

Desserts are suitably over the top. I can’t say no to the Coconut Cake. It is rich, moist and utterly decadent. The Ice Cream Sundae is a must. The only real question is whether to share or not. Tough question. Caramelized pecans, whipped cream and warm chocolate sauce are perfect accompaniments for the vanilla ice cream. One bite is enough. Well, maybe two.

So, is the Polo Bar worth the hype? It absolutely is.

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