Bar Le Côte

2375 Alamo Pintado Ave

Los Olivos, CA 93441

BY ANTONIO GALLONI | OCTOBER 11, 2024

The Food:

Oysters; Pacific Golds, Mere Point Petites

Santa Barbara Sea Urchin

Savory Basque Cheesecake; BLC Royal Caviar, Goat Cheese, Shallot Crème Fraîche

Yellowtail Crudo; Sauce Maritimo, Avocado Purée, Pickled Turnip, Ilene’s Olive Oil, Cilantro Flower

Day Boar Scallop Crudo; Pickled Might Cap Mushrooms, Crème Fraîche, Dill Pollen

B-L-Caesar; Dressed Finley Little Gems, Aged Manchego, Breadcrumbs

Santa Ynez Corn Porridge; Figueroa Mountain Corn, Wild Shrimp, Santa Barbara Sea Urchin, Finley Basil

Yellowtail Collar; Lemon Caper Crème Fraîche

Crispy Skin Branzino; Dry Aged Finley Farm Roasted Sweet Onion, Romesco, Manzanilla Olive

Littleneck Clams; Saffron Crème, Finley Fennel, Lemon

BLC Fries

Olive Oil Cake; Finely Strawberries, Basil Crème Batida, Cookie Crumble

Dark Chocolate Pot de Crème, Whipped Milk Chocolate, Spiced Chocolate Soil

The Wines:

2021 Raventós i Blanc Brut Conca del Riu Anoia	89
2021 Tyler Chardonnay Blanc de BLC	89
2023 Storm Wines Sauvignon Blanc Cocktail	90

The food scene in Los Olivos has improved dramatically in recent years. I sensed a palpable increase in the quality of local restaurants on my most recent visit this past July. Perhaps the long-awaited re-opening of Mattei’s Tavern was a catalyst. I can’t say for sure. What does seem evident is that visitors today have unparalleled options when it comes to exploring the local dining scene. Bar Le Côte is one of the  crown jewels in Santa Barbara wine country.

Oysters; Pacific Golds, Mere Point Petites and Santa Barbara Sea Urchin

Bar Le Côte is in the heart of Los Olivos, a short walk from the two main hotels in town and a bevy of tasting rooms, making it a great choice for dinner after a day of tastings or for a simpler lunch. My only caveat is that things close early. Los Olivos is most definitely not the place for a late dinner.

Savory Basque Cheesecake; BLC Royal Caviar, Goat Cheese, Shallot Crème Fraîche

Executive Chef and Co-Owner Brad Matthews serves up an enticing menu that emphasizes the bounty of local fish and seafood, presented with strong Spanish influences. We tried to order the entire menu on two recent dinners but fell a bit short. No matter, that’s a good reason to go back.

Oysters and the Santa Barbara Sea Urchin are a must to start, preferably paired with something crisp. I could have had seconds. My only quibble here is that the sea urchin might be better served on a cracker or rice. The Basque Cheesecake topped with caviar melds together gorgeous flavors and textures. I also love the Yellowtail Crudo, especially in the way the brightness of the condiments plays off the richness of the meat. The Scallop Crudo is a bit darker, as the mushrooms add an unusual earthy layer of flavor that works quite well. The B-L-Caesar is perhaps not the most exciting dish on the menu, but greens are always good, and it’s a delicious salad.

Yellowtail Crudo; Sauce Maritimo, Avocado Purée, Pickled Turnip, Ilene’s Olive Oil, Cilantro Flower

Corn Porridge with shrimp and sea urchin is suitably rich, with the corn absorbing all of the saline intensity of the seafood. The Yellowtail Collar is spectacular. Each fish only provides two servings, so Matthews freezes the collars over time and then puts this on the menu. Every bite is a delicious mix of fatty meat and strong condiments. Divine. The Branzino is delicious. It's maybe not quite as adventurous as some of the other dishes on the menu, but it is impeccably done. I always prefer fish served with the head, but I also realize that is not everyone’s cup of tea. Littleneck Clams are another signature dish. This rendition, served with saffron crème, fennel and lemon, is tasty. The BLC Fries are a must.

Yellowtail Collar; Lemon Caper Crème Fraîche

I really have only one criticism of Bar Le Côte, and that is that the wine program could benefit from more options. Guests can choose from 15 or so whites and reds, plus a few sparkling wines and other beverages. Pricing is very fair, which is great to see. The focus is on wines from small, artisan producers and Spain clearly chosen to complement the cuisine. That would be fine for a modest establishment, but Bar Le Côte is far more than that. The energy in the dining room was especially palpable on the second night we visited. Alice Waters, one of the most influential chef/restaurateurs in California and a pioneer in the farm-to-table movement, was enjoying dinner. Bar Le Côte is that kind of place. This is one of the problems, for lack of a better word, created by Matthews’s brilliant cuisine. In short, this food really deserves a broader selection of wines. I can appreciate if budgets or physical space don’t allow for an extensive cellar, but some improvement must surely be possible. 

Littleneck Clams; Saffron Crème, Finley Fennel, Lemon

The 2021 Brut Conca del Riu Anoia from Raventós i Blanc is a fine, tasty sparkling wine to kick off dinner. Brisk and vibrant, it whets the palate nicely. Justin Willett’s 2021 Chardonnay Blanc de BLC, blended for Bar Le Côte, is piercingly bright in its first impression, but it, too, works so well with the cuisine. I would not drink this alone. At the table, it is a delight. Ernst Storm’s Sauvignon 2023 Blanc Cocktail is essentially a blend of his Santa Ynez Sauvignon Blanc with some juice from the Presqu'ile bottling. It’s a combination that works quite well.

Olive Oil Cake; Finely Strawberries, Basil Crème Batida, Cookie Crumble

Both desserts are terrific. The Olive Oil Cake, topped with a strawberry compote, is wonderfully refreshing, while the Dark Chocolate Pot de Crème will thrill the most discerning of chocolate lovers.

Bar Le Côte is a must for readers visiting Santa Barbara wine country. Reservations are essential, as the small dining room fills up quickly, The bar is a great option for guests who want to watch the action in the open kitchen from row seats.

© 2024, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism.

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