Del Posto Ristorante

85 10th Ave,

New York, NY 10011

Tel (212) 497-8090

February 2009

This was another great dinner at Del Posto. The central theme of the evening was comparing different disgorgements of several iconic Champagnes, although a number of other monumental wines were thrown in for good measure. As always, it was an enriching experience to share these bottles with friends who brought so much sheer passion to the conversation. Executive Chef Mark Ladner created an incredible menu which paired with the wines beautifully. I had a hard time picking favorites among his dishes as all of the courses worked so well with the wines.

And as for the wines….they were drop-dead gorgeous, starting with the 1959 Krug Vintage, which was simply great. Caramel, hazelnuts and ash were some of the nuances that emerged from this explosive, creamy-textured wine. The mousse was mostly resolved, but the wine’s overall balance was exceptional. I was amazed by the 1969 Salon Le Mesnil. Served blind, even after 40 years it showed the signature Salon focus and energy, with gorgeous elements of maturity, but no real signs of fading. I have had the privilege, and I do mean privilege, of drinking Selosse’s 1990 Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs several times over the last few months and it has never been anything less than monumental. This was an extraordinarily pure, crystalline Champagne with staggering richness as well as freshness. I went back and forth as to which of the two disgorgements (October 1999, August 1999) I preferred, but in the end I just gave up and acknowledged that this singular wine is one of the most towering, majestic wines I had ever had. Krug’s 1985 Vintage shimmered on the palate in a full-bodied, sensual style. The 1985 Krug Collection took things one step further, with gorgeous complexity in the smoke, mint, mineral and ash notes that developed around the fruit. It was a staggering bottle. Both of the 1985 Krug Champagnes were a match made in heaven with the lobster course.

We worked our way into the reds with an incredible bottle of Guigal’s 1980 Côte Rôtie La Mouline. This sensual, full-bodied wine flowed onto the palate with masses of dark ripe fruit, leather and spices. The wine’s balance was simply awesome. I brought along a few bottles of 1960s Red Label Riservas from Bruno Giacosa for the occasion. The wines were brilliant; my only regret is not having tasted them when they were young. The 1964 Barbaresco Riserva Speciale Santo Stefano is an early masterpiece from Bruno Giacosa. The wine presented a gorgeous translucent color and a firm yet well-integrated tannic spine. The aromas and flavors were classic Santo Stefano, with an interplay of sweet spices and ripe fruit that was remarkable. The 1967 Barbaresco Riserva Speciale Asili was all flowers, mint and sweet ripe fruit in a soft, feminine expression of Nebbiolo. Sweet, round and rich, the wine offered compelling balance in a slightly more forward style than the 1964 Santo Stefano. This was classic Asili at its finest. The flight closed with the 1967 Barolo Riserva Speciale Collina Rionda. This remains an extraordinarily rich, powerful wine packed with dense fruit. The elegance and delineation of the finest vintages (1971, 1978, 1982 and 1989) wasn't quite there, but the wine showed plenty of the iron, mineral and dark fruit flavors that are typical of Serralunga. I was amazed by the wine's integrity and sheer balance. It was a pure pleasure to drink. Domaine de la Romanée-Conti’s 1980 Romanée St. Vivant revealed striking aromatic purity and grace, but it came across as definitely ready to drink.

A few more Champagnes rounded out the night in grand style. The 1979 Krug Vintage was phenomenal for its structure and freshness. A wine for the ages, it revealed tons of perfumed fruit, with sweet notes of mint, flowers and spices that lingered on the finish. Hard as it may be to believe, the 1979 Krug Collection was even better. This sumptuous, layered wine showed surreal clarity and precision in a sensual, intense style that was impossible to resist. It was a joyous and totally uplifting Champagne. I was blown away by two bottles of the 1982 Clos des Goisses, both of which were profound. The August 2007 disgorgement was insanely fresh, with terrific purity in its sweet fruit, smoke and minerals. The February 2007 disgorgement showed similar focus and purity, with a touch more truffle and autumn leaves character. Both bottles were spellbinding. These 1982 Clos des Goisses are wines I will never forget, they were truly monumental.

Food: 

Warm Lobster; Osetra Caviar & Celery Root Spuma

Sunchoke Crudo with Truffled Fonduta & Walnut Gremolada

Del Posto Agnolotti dal Plin with Parmigiano-Reggiano & Prosciutto di Parma

Veal Chop with Grilled Tongue, Porcini & Watercress Salad

Cheeses  

Assorted Desserts  

Honey Apple Strudel; Crispy Phyllo, Walnut Croquant, Caramel Ice Cream

Wine:

1959	Krug Vintage	96
1969	Salon Le Mesnil	95
1990	Jacques Selosse Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs (disgorged October 1999)	98
1990	Jacques Selosse Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs (disgorged August 1999)	98
1985	Krug Vintage	95
1985	Krug Collection	97
1980	Guigal Côte Rôtie La Mouline	97
1964	Giacosa Barbaresco Riserva Santo Stefano	96
1967	Giacosa Barbaresco Riserva Asili	95
1967	Giacosa Barolo Riserva Collina Rionda	95
1980	Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée St. Vivant	95
1979	Krug Vintage	96
1979	Krug Collection	98
1982	Philipponnat Clos des Goisses (disgorged August 2007)	97
1982	Philipponnat Clos des Goisses (disgorged February 2007)	97

--Antonio Galloni