Mas Farmhouse

39 Downing St

New York, NY 10014

Tel. + 1 (212) 255-1790

Wines:

NV Selosse Brut Blanc de Blancs Substance (disg. Aug. 2, 2010)	96
2011 Miani Friulano Buri	94
2005 Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Landonne	96+
1995 Quintarelli Amarone	95
1990 Quintarelli Amabile del Cere	96

Food:

Yellowfin Tuna l’Occidental; flashed with Beurre Noisette & crispy shallots

Endive salad in maple vinaigrette; confit of quince, toasted hazelnut, & a house made smoked Fromage Blanc

Roasted wild striped bass with fennel en cocotte; fines herbs, Sumac, orange, black olive & potato purée

Artisan cheeses (Not pictured)

This fabulous dinner at Mas was the perfect setting to share a number of gorgeous wines with dear friends.

Tucked away in the labyrinth of small streets that is Greenwich Village, Mas offers an intriguing blend of contemporary American cuisine with French country inflections. The dining room is small, intimate and also much cozier that most restaurants at this level. But that is one of the charms of the West Village. Mas offers a tasting menu that changes daily, along with a number of à la carte choices. Galen Zamarra’s dishes sound more complicated than they actually are on the plate. Flavors are bold yet articulate and very wine friendly. In other words, perfect for a chilly fall evening.

What a pleasure it is to spend some time with Anselme Selosse’s NV Substance. The warm, oxidative flavors typical of this Champagne take on greater breadth and volume now that this bottled has been disgorged for a few years. Calm, resonant and cozy like a hearth in winter, the Substance is fabulous from the very first taste. It also pairs beautifully with the yellowfin tuna appetizer, as the flavors and textures play very much in the same burnished, gently oxidized register. Miani’s 2011 Friulano Buri, from old, terraced vineyards in Buttrio, is an example of contrasts, as its tightly wound personality cuts through all of the richness of the dish. Both wines are magnificent, but totally different in style. The endive salad is bursting with deep, intense winter flavors. It, too, is utterly delicious.

The only problem with Guigal’s 2005 Côte-Rôtie La Landonne is that it is too young. A wine of pure texture and silkiness, the Landonne graces the palate with stunning richness and depth. Three and half years in oak have given the 2005 a level of depth and density that is remarkable. But what is most impressive of all is just how primary the flavors are, even at eight years of age. Readers lucky enough to own the 2005 should cellar it for at least another five years. I imagine it will still be spectacular at age 30. Today it is the wine’s pure texture and persistence that impress most. If the 2005 La Landonne is a monument to the ability of contemporary winemaking to express a terroir, the 1995 Amarone from Giuseppe Quintarelli is the exact opposite. Sweet dried cherries, tobacco, licorice and that inimitable Quintarelli sweetness all take shape in the glass. The 1995 is constantly changing, and while this bottle is striking, it also falls just a bit short of the very best examples. Still, that is a quibble, as the 1995 Amarone is fantastic. The roasted striped bass has more than enough texture and richness to stand up to these gorgeous wines.

It has been a while since I last tasted Quintarelli’s 1990 Amabile del Cere, but time has done little to change the wine, which remains magnificent. Orange peel, spice, dried rose petal, coffee and licorice notes wrap around the palate in a soft, perfumed and impeccable sweet wine from Quintarelli. This is a fabulous bottle, and a great accompaniment to the artisan cheeses that round out our menu.

-- Antonio Galloni