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Vinous Guides: Best Italian Wine Lists in New York City
BY ANTONIO GALLONI | MAY 5, 2025
I have been involved with Italian wine in one way or another since I was in high school. My parents operated a retail store when I was a teenager. That was my introduction. Family trips in the summer furthered my interest. Later, I became an avid consumer myself. Today, many years later, my passion for Italy and its wines is stronger than ever. I never cease to be amazed by the sheer diversity and quality Italy has to offer.
With Vinous Icons: Italy fast approaching, we are looking forward to welcoming guests from around the world for a memorable weekend of lunches, dinners, seminars and tastings. To help attendees get the most out of the weekend, we’ve put together a list of our favorite spots where wine lovers can enjoy the full breadth of Italian wine. Some of the restaurants on this list have Italy-focused programs, while others offer wines from around the world. We hope this selection is useful for out-of-towners as well as readers who are well-versed in New York City’s vibrant dining scene.
I did notice several things as I pored over these incredible lists. First, I would like to see Wine Directors and Sommeliers make a clear and correct distinction between Chianti Classico and Chianti. These are two distinct and separate regions. One is not a subset of another. I also noted the minimal presence of Alto Adige, a region blessed with extraordinary diversity that also offers a great deal of value. Either Alto Adige wineries are not doing enough to promote their wines, or perhaps local demand is enough for these estates to thrive.
Restaurants are ranked from one to five stars according to the following parameters:
1) Breadth, 2) Creativity, 3) By the Glass Options, 4) Selection of Older Vintages and 5) Value, which are then combined into an overall rating.
The Fifth Avenue Hotel
250 5th Ave, New York, NY 10001
Tel. + 1 (212) 231-9200
More than five years in the making, Chef Andrew Carmellini’s posh new restaurant is one of the top spots in New York City. Since its opening, its food has gotten better and better. Beverage Director Josh Nadel and Sommelier Robin Wright have put together one of the best lists in town. Although not focused solely on Italy, the list here is nothing short of breathtaking. Reds seem to be the driving theme—if you want it, it’s there. The Barolo selection goes back to the 1960s. Every major producer is represented with multiple vintages, as are pretty much all the names that have become more fashionable of late. Readers with a generous budget will look at this list and start planning a return visit. But Café Carmellini is not just about big names, and there are plenty of affordable choices too. The Alto Piemonte section is small but holds plenty of value. Dolcetto, Barbera and Langhe Nebbiolo aren’t quite the steals they used to be, but there are some good options here as well. There’s plenty of depth in the Tuscan sections as well. Among up-and-coming regions, Sicily is well represented. Whites are a curious mix. The selection of Miani alone is jaw-dropping, but that’s pretty much it for Friuli. Alto Adige and Veneto, meaning Soave, are essentially non-existent. Liguria, Marche and Campania fare better. To be fair, the list is global in scope and it is impossible to have everything. Readers in search of an all-Italian list will find that at sister restaurant Locanda Verde (see below). Prices are fair within the context of high-end Manhattan restaurants. I appreciate the desire to provide value via wines from less well-known producers. The By the Glass selection, which is global in scope, is extremely thoughtful and curated.
Strengths: Older vintages of Piedmont, Langhe, the relative value of the Barbera & Friends section, Tuscany, Abruzzo
What I’m Drinking: 2021 Tiberio Trebbiano d'Abruzzo Fonte Canale, 2023 Burlotto Dolcetto d’Alba, 2016 Le Pianelle Bramaterra
Money is No Object: 2013 Cappellano Barolo Pie Franco
Breadth: ★★★★★
Creativity: ★★★★
By the Glass Options: ★★★★★
Selection of Older Vintages: ★★★★★
Value: ★★★★½
Overall Rating: ★★★★½
440 West 33rd Street Suite #100
New York, NY 10001
Tel. +1 (212) 219-6559
Beverage Director Luciane Froz and her team of sommeliers offer a fabulous list that leans heavily on Italy. The By the Glass selections are superb and show real thought. Owner Danny Meyer has long championed value in his wine programs. That’s harder to do these days, but there is still plenty of value to be found for guests who take the time to pore through the extensive list. Many of the ‘trophy’ wines are less expensive at Ci Siamo than in other restaurants in the city. Last but certainly not least, according to my 14-year-old daughter, Ci Siamo “has the best Italian food outside of Italy.”
Strengths: By the Glass options, overall diversity and breadth
What I’m Drinking: 2023 Köfererhof Riesling, 2023 Marco de Bartoli Zibbibo Pietranera, 2020 Tenuta di Carleone Chianti Classico, 2018 Gulfi Nero d’Avola Nerobufaleffj
Money is No Object: 2020 Giacomo Conterno Nebbiolo d’Alba Arione, 1964 Giuseppe Mascarello & Figlio Barolo
Breadth: ★★★★★
Creativity: ★★★★★
By the Glass Options: ★★★★★
Selection of Older Vintages: ★★★
Value: ★★★★★
Overall Rating: ★★★★½
348 Flatbush Avenue
Brooklyn, New York 11238
Tel. +1 (917) 909-1427
Readers who are burned out by stratospheric restaurant prices will want to head straight to Joe Campanale’s Fausto in Brooklyn. This is the place to drink some of Italy’s most coveted wines at prices that are exceedingly fair in today’s world. With its emphasis on Italy, France and the United States, the list has plenty to offer. The focus is squarely on the smaller artisan producers that Campanale has championed throughout his career. It’s a relatively small list, organized alphabetically rather than designed to offer something for every region (an exercise that would be nearly impossible for Italy anyway). The By the Glass selection is light, but then again, so are prices. There’s not much in the way of older vintages either, but that does not bother me one bit here. That said, Fausto does offer some slightly older whites that will tempt inquisitive diners. The overall theme, though, is value, value, value. Fausto is a restaurant that deserves to be widely supported. Bravo!
Strengths: Value, value, value
What I’m Drinking: 2021 Nusserhof Blatterle ‘Bl.Te.Le,’ 2020 Occhipinti Grillo SM, 2019 Castell’in Villa Chianti Classico, 2017 Ar.Pe.Pe. Valtellina Superiore Riserva Stella Retica, 2021 Podere Le Boncie Le Trame
Money is No Object: 2018 Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero
Breadth: ★★★★★
Creativity: ★★★★★
By the Glass Options: ★★★★
Selection of Older Vintages: ★★★
Value: ★★★★★
Overall Rating: ★★★★
The Greenwich Hotel
377 Greenwich Street
New York, NY 10013
Tel. +1 (212) 925-3797
Italian wine lovers will adore the list (and the food) at Locanda Verde, Chef Andrew Carmellini’s trattoria-style restaurant in lower Manhattan. Locanda Verde offers an all-Italian list with an additional small selection of Champagne. That’s a pretty good mix in my book. There are so many gorgeous wines on this list. All the major regions offer depth of style, producer and price. A handful of featured wines at the top of each section make choosing easy for guests who don’t want to pore over the entire list. By the Glass options offer quality, value and interest. Well done. There are a few older vintages sprinkled throughout the list, not too many but that does not seem to be the focus, nor would I expect to necessarily see that in an informal, fast-paced restaurant. Readers who want to splurge on older wines will find plenty to choose from at sister restaurant Café Carmellini. Locanda Verde is one of the best places for the inquisitive oenophile to explore all Italy has to offer. Don’t miss it.
Strengths: The overall selection offers terrific breadth for most of Italy.
What I’m Drinking: 2023 Ronco del Gnemiz Sauvignon Sol, 2022 Manni Nössing Sylvaner, 2022 Monteraponi Chianti Classico, 2017 Rovellotti Ghemme Chioso dei Pomi
Money is No Object: 2007 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia
Breadth: ★★★★★
Creativity: ★★★★★
By the Glass Options: ★★★★★
Selection of Older Vintages: ★★★★½
Value: ★★★★★
Overall Rating: ★★★★★
240 Central Park South
New York, NY 10019
Tel. +1 (212) 582-5100
Located in posh Central Park South, Marea is a New York City institution. The selection of wines by the glass and by Coravin is exceptional. Not only is the selection vast, but Marea is the only restaurant in this article that explains each of the wines with a brief description so that readers know what to expect. That is commendable. It should not be unusual, but it is. Stated simply, Marea offers one of the best By the Glass programs I have seen anywhere in the world. Kudos.
To be sure, Marea offers a big-city wine list. Interestingly, in the Italian section, white wine producers are more artisan in scale, while the reds feature a lot of the big names. After all these years, I am sure Wine Director Francesco Grosso has an excellent idea of what diners expect to see at Marea. There aren’t a ton of older vintages on the list, but there are enough to keep things interesting. Pricing is quite fair for a restaurant of this caliber in the heart of Manhattan. Highly recommended.
Strengths: Wine by the glass, white wines and iconic Italian reds
What I’m Drinking: 2023 Tiberio Pecorino, 2018 Pra Soave Classico, 2019 Ferrando Carema Etichetta Bianca, 2020 Luigi Baudana Barolo Baudana
Money is No Object: 2014 Roagna Barbaresco Crichët Pajé, 2004 Montevertine Le Pergole Torte, 2006 Antinori Solaia
Breadth: ★★★★★
Creativity: ★★★★★
By the Glass Options: ★★★★★
Selection of Older Vintages: ★★★★½
Value: ★★★★★
Overall Rating: ★★★★★
913 Broadway
New York, NY 10010
Tel. +1 (646) 212-0913
At Massara Chef Stefano Secchi focuses on the cooking of Campania and southern Italy, with much of it done on wood-grill stove and oven. The wine list is one of the most singular and exciting I have seen in a very long time. Campania and Sicily feature heavily. Those themes continue in the reds, where Basilicata is also given ample play. Readers who want to explore the best of Southern Italy will flip out over this list. Tuscany is also exceptionally well represented. Guests will find a deep selection of wines from Emidio Pepe in the Abruzzo section. What a transformation this estate has undergone. I remember accompanying Emidio Pepe around New York City during his first visit about 20 years ago. He did not speak a word of English, and no one knew who he was! Today, the Pepe family’s wines adorn the best lists around the world. There are no wines from northern Italy—a courageous choice, but one I applaud, as it forces diners to explore the vast riches of other regions. Moreover, the wines on this list are surely better complements to the menu. Massara offers a fine By the Glass selection and plenty of depth in older vintages.
Strengths: Southern Italy and Tuscany or bust
What I’m Drinking: 2023 Marisa Cuomo Furore, 2020 Colle di Lapio Fiano di Avellino Clelia, 2018 Cantine Lonardo Taurasi Coste, 2021 Tenuta di Trinoro Campo di Tenaglia
Money is No Object: 2020 Quintodecimo Grande Cuvée Luigi Moio, 2012 Nanni Cope Terre del Volturno Sabbie di Sopra Bosco, 1971 Biondi-Santi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva
Breadth: ★★★★★
Creativity: ★★★★★
By the Glass Options: ★★★★★
Selection of Older Vintages: ★★★★
Value: ★★★★
Overall Rating: ★★★★½
27 East 20th Street
New York, New York 10003
Tel. +1 (646) 692-9090
Rezdôra is Chef/Owner Stefano Secchi’s ode to the cuisine of Emilia-Romagna that he grew up with. One of the things I like most about this list is the personal touch. Rezdôra gets high marks here. Secchi and his team highlight family-owned wineries they have a special connection with, including G.D. Vajra, Le Piane, Medici-Ermete, Malvirà and others. Not surprisingly, the list of wines from Emilia-Romagna is striking in its depth.
The Emilia-Romagna, Franciacorta, Friuli and Piedmont sections are especially of note, as is the selection of “orange” wines. There’s plenty of value to be found among less well-known names. Guests who want to drink big-name wines will have to accept pricing that is astronomical, even by New York City standards. By the Glass selections offer some very nice choices, although there could be more breadth.
Strengths: Emilia-Romagna, Franciacorta, Friuli, Piedmont
What I’m Drinking: 2023 Medici Ermete Lambrusco Concerto, 2022 Monte Maletto Erbaluce Vecchie Tonneaux, 2007 Kante Vitovska Selezione, 2021 Chiara Condello Predappio Sangiovese Riserva Le Lucciole, 2016/2017 Cascina Baricchi Barbaresco Riserva Rose delle Casasse
Money is No Object: 2021 Montevertine Le Pergole Torte
Breadth: ★★★★★
Creativity: ★★★★★
By the Glass Options: ★★★★
Selection of Older Vintages: ★★★
Value: ★★★★
Overall Rating: ★★★★½
Puck Building
275 Mulberry Street
New York, NY 10012
Tel. +1 (212) 254-3000
Torrisi is one of the hardest reservations to get in New York, but the food is worth it. The brainchild of Chef/Owner Rich Torrisi, this cozy restaurant is one of the more recent additions to the Major Food Group empire that Torrisi runs with partners Mario Carbone and Jeff Zalaznick. This is a big-time, New York City wine list, with hundreds of selections from all over Europe and the United States. Italy features heavily, which is not surprising given the cuisine. Guests who want to drink Italy’s most prestigious wines will need a hefty budget, but there is some value too. The Produttori del Barbaresco section includes wines back to 1978. Guests will find numerous vintages of Poggio di Sotto Brunello di Montalcino, Ornellaia, Masseto and Sassicaia.
Strengths: Iconic wines of Tuscany and Piedmont
What I Am Drinking: 2022 Borgo del Tiglio Friulano, 2022 Fontodi Trebbiano, 2020 Cantine Garrone Prünent, 2022 Passopisciaro Etna Rosso Contrada Chiappemacchine
Money is No Object: 1990 Soldera Brunello di Montalcino Riserva
Breadth: ★★★★★
Creativity: ★★★★
By the Glass Options: ★★★★
Selection of Older Vintages: ★★★★★
Value: ★★★
Overall Rating: ★★★★
567 Union Avenue
Brooklyn, New York 11222
Tel. + 1 (718) 576-3095
I have been a fan of Missy Robbins’ cooking since I first met her many years ago at the since-shuttered A Voce. The all-Italian list at Lilia is very much on the adventurous side. Artisan producers from all around the boot feature extensively. Guests in search of more mainstream estates might struggle a bit here. On the other hand, I admire any restaurateur who is willing to offer a list with so many of Italy’s leading small estates. There is certainly plenty to choose from. The selection of older vintages is minimal, but Lilia gets around that by offering vintages for many wines that are not necessarily the latest releases. That’s a fine compromise. By the Glass options are equally creative, with a good bit of diversity too. Unfortunately, unlike every other restaurant in this report, Lilia was not willing to share their full list, so I can’t comment on pricing or value. Even so, this is a program that merits a mention.
Strengths: Hard-to-find artisan producers
What I’m drinking: 2022 Mitka Sirk Friuliano, 2021 Podere Le Boncie Chiesamonti, 2018 Nusserhof Elda, 2015 Walter Massa Monleale
Breadth: ★★★★
Creativity: ★★★★★
By the Glass Options: ★★★★
Selection of Older Vintages: ★★★
Value: NR
Overall Rating: ★★★½
126 West 18th Street
New York, NY 10011
Tel. +1 (917) 781-0255
Chef Alfred Portale made his name at Gotham Bar and Grill, where he became an iconic presence of the New York City dining scene before striking out on his own in 2019. Portale offers a big-city wine list at his namesake restaurant, and Italy features heavily. The selection of whites alone makes Portale one of the most important wine destinations in New York City. That theme continues into the reds, where readers will have a very hard time making choices. The selection from Produttori del Barbaresco is deep. Portale is one of the few New York City restaurants that offer a wide range of Valtellina reds. Beyond that, there is no shortage of choices. Prices are very fair by New York City standards. Although Portale does not offer a lot of very old vintages, the list is peppered with many vintages of moderate age. Highly recommended.
Strengths: Impossible to choose!
What I’m drinking: 2022 Köfererhof Kerner Valle Isarco, 2022 Pieropan Soave Classico La Rocca, 2020 Trediberri Barolo Berri, 2016 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Pora
Money is No Object: 1996 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Riserva Fallettoo, Tenuta delle Terre Nere Etna Rosso Prephylloxera La Vigna di Don Peppino
Breadth: ★★★★★
Creativity: ★★★★★
By the Glass Options: ★★★★★
Selection of Older Vintages: ★★★★½
Value: ★★★★★
Overall Rating: ★★★★★
51 Grove Street
New York, NY 10014
Tel. +1 (212) 255-1962
Located in the West Village, Via Carota is one of the hottest spots in Manhattan. The Tuscan-inspired menu from Jody Williams and Rita Sodi has Via Carota packed most of the time. As much as I admire grand, encyclopedic wine lists at other venues (and the work that goes into creating them), I also very much enjoy smaller, highly curated selections like this one. Guests will find plenty of options from around the boot. There’s a good bit of variety in the whites, while Piedmont occupies about half of the reds section. The By the Glass selection is not especially remarkable, but it is fine for a more casual restaurant. If anything, the skimpy selection of wines by the glass is a very fine inducement to simply get a bottle. That’s not too hard to do since most bottles are under $130. I must say, I admire Via Carota’s commitment to value.
Strengths: A curated selection of affordable, food-friendly wines with a focus on artisan estates
What I’m Drinking: 2023 Foradori, Manzoni Bianco Fontanasanta, 2015 Paolo Bea Umbria Bianco Arboreus, 2022 Felsina Chianti Colli Senesi, 2022 Tenuta di Trinoro Le Cupole
Money is No Object: 2019 Biondi-Santi Rosso di Montalcino
Breadth: ★★★★
Creativity: ★★★★★
By the Glass Options: ★★★★
Selection of Older Vintages: ★★★
Value: ★★★★★
Overall Rating: ★★★★
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