Estro

2/F, 1 Duddell St

Central

Hong Kong

The Food:

The Wines:

Hong Kong’s food scene is as dynamic as its extraordinary scenery. While there are countless Cantonese restaurants, as one would expect, the city also caters to nearly all tastes, including those with a penchant for Italian cuisine. During my recent stay, I visited two well-regarded Italian restaurants located in Central, the financial heart of Hong Kong, which is littered with skyscrapers that light up the night. Estro is the debut restaurant from Naples-born chef Antimo Maria Merone, who gives a modern twist to Neapolitan dishes and ingredients. I visited on a weekday for their business lunch menu, priced from HKD 580 per person (around $75) for a two-course menu up to HKD 980 ($120) for four courses. 

The kitchen at Estro.

Estro is located off a side street on the second floor, accessible via a tiny lift into which we were squashed like sardines. No, the entrance is not exactly salubrious, but once you enter Estro’s doors, you find yourself in a very modern, spacious interior with plenty of natural light. An open kitchen is housed on the right-hand side. The space cuts out the hustle and bustle of the outside world, inviting guests to breathe and relax. 

Tomato tart with buffalo ricotta, fig leaf oil and consommé.

After an amuse-bouche of diced raw tuna, the starter of tomato tart with buffalo ricotta, fig leaf oil and consommé is outstanding, perhaps my favourite part of the entire lunch. Ablaze with vivid yellows, reds and greens, the tomatoes are exceptionally fresh with just the right amount of tartness, the ricotta and fig imparting sweetness to keep everything light and balanced. Wonderful! 

​Scialatielli with aori ika, squid ink and parsley.

Scialatielli with aori ika, squid ink and parsley forms an intense dish. The scialatielli pasta is perfectly al dente and combines beautifully with the sashimi aori ika, a bigfin reef squid renowned for its sweetness. The dish is obviously pigmented by the squid ink and judiciously accented by the parsley. It is not a large portion, but such is the intensity of flavour that it is exactly the right size. 

​Stone bass with confit tomato, eggplant, bell pepper and caper sauce.

I wanted a light main, as I had dinner plans that evening. The stone bass with confit tomato, eggplant, bell pepper and caper sauce fit the bill. The fish itself is on the small side, but that’s perfect for me, delivering the meatiness you want from stone bass. The confit tomato lends piquancy and the caper sauce saltiness to lift the fishy flavours. It’s a minimalist presentation but, again, packed with flavour. 

We commence with the 2019 Chardonnay UV-SL Vineyard from Aubert, one of my favourite Sonoma producers. Pure and lifted on the nose, it offers lemon thyme, chai and clementine, all complemented by the judicious use of French oak. The palate is quite Burgundian in style, with just a modicum of creaminess in terms of texture and a very harmonious, tender finish. This is drinking perfectly now, and I have little doubt that it will cruise effortlessly for another decade. The Aubert is flanked by the 2018 Chablis Chapelot 1er Cru from Domaine François Raveneau. This cuvée sees the light of day only in more abundant vintages, and otherwise forms part of their Montée de Tonnerre. The 2018 is a vintage that I had not tasted before. Bright and lively on the nose, it offers Anjou pear and greengage scents, though it never quite achieves the complexity you typically find across Raveneau’s Premier Crus. Still, the palate is well balanced, and given the warmth of that particular vintage, this succeeds in retaining sufficient bite and tension on the finish. Perfect to drink now. 

The 2007 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru from Domaine Dujac is a vintage that I have not seen for many a year, but it is drinking beautifully. Fragrant morello cherries waltz with raspberry and subtle autumn leaf scents. As you would expect from 2007, this is not a structured, dense Grand Cru, relying on purity and a kind of “innocent charm” to pull it through. Approaching two decades in age, this is drinking well and should offer another 12 to 15 years, though I cannot see much upside in waiting longer. The 2007 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru from Domaine Claude Dugat has the edge over the Dujac. This is surprisingly precocious given the vintage, with more opulent aromatics of almost glossy red cherry and white-tipped strawberries, a little warmth emanating from the alcohol. The palate has impressive weight and a velvety texture, more complex than expected, with a touch of blood orange perking up the finish. Lovely.

Estro is a charming Italian restaurant that deserves its Michelin star. The ingredients shine on the plate, the execution is top-notch and the setting allows for a momentary escape from Hong Kong’s frenetic pace. The wine list is not huge, but comprehensive, unsurprisingly leaning towards Italian regions and classic French offerings. There are also back vintages of Dom Pérignon for those seeking bubbles, and I appreciate that the corkage policy is clearly stated on their website (though steep at HKD 700 per bottle). At least you know where you stand if you do want to bring your own. Service, both food and wine, is exceptional. Overall, Estro is an excellent place for a quick lunch, though I am already hankering to return to see what the chef can rustle up for dinner.

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