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Cellar Favorite: 1995 Domaine J.L. Chave L’Hermitage Blanc
France: Rhône & Beaujolais, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Jul 2024
I don’t drink enough white Rhône wines. But when I do, it might as well be amongst the very best.
Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2022: Bring It On
France: Rhône & Beaujolais, featured
, Jun 2024
After getting a good glimpse at the 2022 vintage while visiting other Rhône appellations last year, I was eager to see how Châteauneuf-du-Pape performed in a growing season marked by heat, drought and hail. The short answer is that 2022 is a very good vintage in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, clearly surpassing 2021 for the reds, though likely not at the same level as 2020. Overall consistency for reds in 2022 is higher than in 2021, and there are plenty of excellent wines cruising in an affordable price range.
Cellar Favorite: 1938 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Côte-Rôtie
France: Rhône & Beaujolais, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Apr 2024
When someone whispers into your ear, particularly my ear, that you will never drink this bottle again, the aforementioned ear perks up. The 1938 Côte-Rôtie from Paul Jaboulet Aîné had lived its entire life in a cool dank cellar over in the West Country, so factor in perfect provenance. Though the bottle states Jaboulet on the label, it is more accurate to look at this as an amalgamation of all the growers in Côte-Rôtie at the time since hardly any bottled themselves.
But Seriously: Beaujolais 2021-2023
France: Rhône & Beaujolais, featured
, Apr 2024
Beaujolais is one of the most dynamic wine regions in France. This report looks at new releases that almost entirely represent outstanding value for money, growers on the rise and the sheer diversity that Beaujolais has to offer.
Cellar Favorite: 2014 M & C Lapierre Morgon Marcel Lapierre Cuvée MMXIV
France: Rhône & Beaujolais, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Apr 2024
The 2014 Morgon Marcel Lapierre Cuvée MMXIV comes from 2.5 hectares planted in 1907-1910, just after phylloxera. The vines are located in the Le Douby climat, towards Fleurie, which the legendary Marcel Lapierre has intermittently bottled separately since 1999. Authorities refused the maiden vintage since it did not adhere to the typical Morgon style for reasons only known to them. To circumvent demotion into Vin de France, Marcel Lapierre’s son, the then teenage Mathieu, who is recounting this story in the sunny courtyard outside the winery in Villié-Morgon, suggested his father print the vintage in Roman numerals.
Northern Rhône: Where Diversity Ignites the Senses
France: Rhône & Beaujolais, featured
, Mar 2024
Diversity reigns supreme in the Northern Rhône Valley, with each appellation offering unique expressions. Despite climatic challenges, local vintners exhibit remarkable adaptability, ensuring the sustainability of their vineyards and the quality of their wines. This report unearths the distinct characteristics of the 2021 and 2022 vintages, from a high degree of variability of the former to the promising potential of the latter.
Cellar Favorite: 1991 René Balthazar Cornas
France: Rhône & Beaujolais, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Mar 2024
The Northern Rhône is a region that I would like to know better. There is too little time with Burgundy and Bordeaux under my charge, so I look forward to future reports from my colleague, Nicolas Greinacher. A recent Riesling/Syrah-themed dinner was bejeweled with exquisite bottles and fodder for several Cellar Favorites. This one caught my eye.
Cellar Favorite: 1983 & 1967 Domaine J.L. Chave L’Hermitage
France: Rhône & Beaujolais, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Jan 2024
Last year was such a treasure trove of amazing bottles that I completely forgot a dinner in February that finished with a pair of outstanding wines from Jean-Louis Chave.
Gigondas: The Southern Rhône Jewel Shines and Adapts
France: Rhône & Beaujolais, featured
, Jan 2024
Gigondas, the Southern Rhône gem, finally moves ahead with the official Gigondas Blanc category as part of the inaugural 2023 vintage. This report unravels the time-consuming AOC adaptation process, delves into the region’s unique terroir and offers a thorough review of the promising 2022 and more mixed 2021 vintages.
Cellar Favorite: 1971 Hospices des Moulin-à-Vent Moulin-à-Vent
France: Rhône & Beaujolais, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Nov 2023
Held every November, the Hospices de Beaune is Burgundy’s most famous charity auction. It attracts global attention, celebrities and, in recent years, stratospheric hammer prices. Lying in its shadow is the annual Hospices de Nuits auction that unfairly doesn’t attract nearly the same hoopla. Yet I have encountered very fine bottlings. Until the 1971 Moulin-à-Vent was poured, I had no idea that a similar auction was held in Beaujolais. I do not know when the auction ceased and correct me if I’m wrong, but it seems lost in the mists of time.