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Cellar Favorite: 2016 Domaine J-F Mugnier Musigny Vieilles Vignes
France: Burgundy, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Dec 2023
Frédéric Mugnier caused a few ripples when, tired of witnessing his Grand Crus martyred not long after bottling in restaurants around Beaune, he decided to withhold his Musigny Vieilles Vignes until he deemed it had several years’ bottle age. I wish more growers would follow his lead.
Cellar Favorite: 1971 Hospices des Moulin-à-Vent Moulin-à-Vent
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Rhône & Beaujolais
, Nov 2023
Held every November, the Hospices de Beaune is Burgundy’s most famous charity auction. It attracts global attention, celebrities and, in recent years, stratospheric hammer prices. Lying in its shadow is the annual Hospices de Nuits auction that unfairly doesn’t attract nearly the same hoopla. Yet I have encountered very fine bottlings. Until the 1971 Moulin-à-Vent was poured, I had no idea that a similar auction was held in Beaujolais. I do not know when the auction ceased and correct me if I’m wrong, but it seems lost in the mists of time.
Cellar Favorite: 2009 Maximin Grünhaus – von Schubert Abtsberg Riesling Auslese #93
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, Germany
, Nov 2023
Poured on a hot sunny evening in Beaune between a quick dip in the pool and a delicious supper, the 2009 Abstberg Riesling Auslese #93 from winemaker Carl von Schubert ranks as one of the greatest Rieslings I've encountered in the last five years.
Cellar Favorite: 1971 Henschke Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, Australia
, Nov 2023
There was a time a few years ago when I drank quite a number of mature Australian wines. Sadly, these have become much harder to find, especially since I have not visited Australia for over a decade. Therefore, it was a joy to drink a 52-year-old bottle from Henschke on a recent trip to the Far East.
Cellar Favorite: 1890, 1990, 2005 & 2015 Branaire-Ducru
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Bordeaux
, Nov 2023
Proprietor François-Xavier Maroteaux whipped out a quartet of vintages on a recent visit to Branaire-Ducru. Nothing new there. However, this quartet spanned 125 years. I recall Maroteaux mentioning in passing about a handful of ancient bottles from a collector. So, to clarify, the bottle of 1890 had not laid undisturbed in the château’s cellars since birth. Instead, it resided in a private cellar until “coming home”.
Cellar Favorite: 2009 Beau Paysage Tsugane La Montagne
Japan, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Oct 2023
Japan’s wine industry might be in its infancy, but it’s expanding. In the past, I’ve had experience with Japanese wines after judging competitions in Tokyo, though I never encountered a bottle that obliged superlatives. I remain unconvinced about the potential of their indigenous Koshu variety. Towards the end of a recent meal, one of our attendees produced a magnum that I had never seen before, never heard of. The 2009 Tsugane La Montagne from Beau Paysage proved what is possible in Japan.
Cellar Favorite: 2010 Beaux Frères Pinot Noir The Beaux Frères Vineyard
United States: Oregon, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Oct 2023
The 2010 Pinot Noir The Beaux Frères Vineyard is a perfect example of how maturity can propel a wine of humble beginnings beyond expectations. The 2010s are the product of a cool and classic vintage that made producers question when the wines would peak. Today, the wines are in the sweet spot.
Cellar Favorite: 1970 E. Pira & Figli Barolo
Italy: Piedmont, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Oct 2023
The 1970 Pira Barolo is a wine I have never had before, at least that I can recall. Sweet, perfumed and ethereal, the 1970 takes us back to another generation, a time when Piedmont was far more agrarian and artisan than it is today. Crushed rose petals, mint, licorice, dried flowers, sweet dried cherry fruit, pipe tobacco and old chest drawer waft from the glass. Fine, silky, mature Nebbiolo tannins pull it all together beautifully. The 1970 is fully mature and past its prime, but well-stored bottles will drink well for another few years.
Cellar Favorite: 1981 Petrus
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Bordeaux
, Oct 2023
Given my rather desultory score for the 1981 Petrus, a bottle that had a tincture of TCA, I was able to order a pristine bottle in London that had been acquired directly from the château, thereby giving me a chance to re-evaluate.
Cellar Favorite: 2003 Philip Togni Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Estate
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, United States: California
, Oct 2023
The 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate, a library release from the winery this year, is in great shape. Rich, racy and super-expressive, the 2003 offers up an exotic mélange of ripe dark plum, hard candy, tea leaves, spice, mocha, leather and menthol. Sweet floral top notes add character to the distinctly ripe flavor profile.