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Cellar Favorite: 1949 Lagrange (Saint-Julien)
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Bordeaux
, Oct 2025
Provenance is the most important factor that determines the quality of a mature claret. A magnum of 1949 Château Lagrange that was recently served blind at the estate in Saint-Julien exemplified this.
Cellar Favorite: 1998 Grand Mayne
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Bordeaux
, Oct 2025
The 1998 Grand Mayne probably marked my introduction to this Saint-Émilion estate. Now at 27 years of age, this might actually represent the best bottle I have encountered.
Vinous Table: Anthocyane Wine Bistrot, Beaune, France
Vinous Table, France: Burgundy
, Oct 2025
This new bistro lies in the heart of Beaune, close to Place Carnot. It's a useful addition to the town's culinary scene with an intriguing wine list that features small, hip producers and hard-to-get names.
Cellar Favorite: 1966 Trotanoy
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Bordeaux
, Oct 2025
The 1966 Trotanoy comes from a golden era for this Pomerol estate and epitomizes everything great about mature Pomerol
A Vintage with Issues: Burgundy 2021
featured, burgfest, burgundy, France: Burgundy
, Oct 2025
The cool 2021 growing season in Burgundy marked a departure from the run of “solar” vintages, hailed by some as a return to classicism and dismissed by others as a year of underripe wines. The annual Burgfest tasting presented the opportunity to examine over 400 reds and whites, tasted blind by peer group, to see how the 2021s have shaped up.
Cellar Favorite: 2015 Domaine Mathilde et Yves Gangloff Côte-Rôtie La Barbarine
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Rhône & Beaujolais
, Oct 2025
The 2015 Côte-Rôtie La Barbarine is an exquisite Northern Rhône wine that, after a decade, is revving its engines, ready for a long and delicious life ahead.
Day by Day: South Africa in 2025
South Africa, South Africa featured, featured
, Oct 2025
South African wine is as much about the place and the people as it is about what’s in the bottle. That’s true for every wine region, but in the Cape, it reaches its zenith. This report focuses on nearly 800 new releases that reaffirm the heights of quality and astonishing value on display, but also gives a feel for day-to-day life through the eyes of a visiting wine writer.
Cellar Favorite: Domaine J.L. Chave 1991 L’Hermitage & 1995 Ermitage Cuvée Cathelin
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Rhône & Beaujolais
, Sep 2025
I recently had the privilege of drinking rare Rhônes from Domaine J.L. Chave, including one absolute showstopper.
Vinous Table: Lisboeta, London, UK
Portugal, Vinous Table
, Sep 2025
Lisboeta’s authentic and interesting dishes are lip-smackingly delicious. Every plate showcases well-sourced ingredients and impressive execution without pretentiousness.
Hand Over the Keys: Brane-Cantenac 1928-2023
France: Bordeaux, featured, France: Bordeaux featured Verticals and Retrospectives
, Sep 2025
To mark 100 years since the Lurton family bought Brane-Cantenac, Henri Lurton organised a vertical tasting that demonstrated how this Margaux wine has improved so dramatically during his reign. A few gems then showed that his ancestors also had a magic touch when it came to turning grapes into wine.