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It’s Rousseau’Clock: Grand Crus 1967-2019
France: Burgundy, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured
, Feb 2026
It’s Rousseau’clock! An epic tasting of Rousseau’s Grand Crus last November provided valuable insight into their Clos de la Roche, Ruchottes and Charmes-Chambertin. Whilst market prices have escalated in recent years, what has not changed is the calibre of their wines.
Cellar Favorite: 2005 Le Dôme
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Bordeaux
, Feb 2026
Having consistently tasted Le Dôme since the maiden 1996 vintage, it is always fascinating to return to those earliest vintages. The 2005 is drinking perfectly now, and will offer another 12 to 15 years’ drinking pleasure.
Vinous Table: La Trompette, London, UK
Italy: Tuscany, Vinous Table, France: Rhône & Beaujolais
, Jan 2026
You could define a bona fide great restaurant as one where tingles of excitement run down your spine no matter many times you enter its doors. La Trompette is essentially my second home, given the innumerable times I have visited, and I recently returned for two splendid evenings: a Soldera dinner and a Rhône dinner.
Cellar Favorite: 2013 Domaine Didier Dagueneau – Louis Benjamin Pouilly-Fumé Silex
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Loire
, Jan 2026
I drink far too few Loire whites these days. A recent encounter with a bottle of 2013 Pouilly-Fumé Silex from Dagueneau served as a pertinent reminder of what I am missing out on.
Cellar Favorite: 1962 La Gaffelière
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Bordeaux
, Jan 2026
My experience with older vintages of La Gaffelière is few and far between, but I had heard others wax lyrical about bottles from the 1950s and 1960s. A group of friends recently poured the 1962 at dinner, and I was absolutely smitten.
Cellar Favorite: 2020 Champagne Nakada-Park Brut Nature Vignes de Gyé-Sur-Seine
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Champagne
, Jan 2026
When I visited Japanese-born, Gevrey-based winemaker Koji Nakada to taste his Burgundy portfolio, he mentioned that he also makes limited amounts of Champagne and presented me with his current releases. Clearly, Nakada’s talents extend beyond the Côte d’Or.
Burgundy 2024: One Battle After Another
France: Burgundy, featured
, Jan 2026
The 2024 vintage tested the mettle of every winemaker in Burgundy. In some ways, there are two entirely different growing seasons in the most complex and fascinating vintage I have ever reported on. Quantities can be absurdly minuscule, quality wildly variable, yet for every calamity, there is a triumph against the odds. It's a vintage that raises more questions than answers.
Cellar Favorite: 1986 Mouton-Rothschild
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Bordeaux
, Dec 2025
I have been waiting to write this Cellar Favorite for many years. Put me on record as stating that the 1986 Mouton-Rothschild is one of the greatest wines of that decade.
Cellar Favorite: 1955 Domaine Georges Roumier Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses 1er Cru
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Burgundy
, Dec 2025
From one of Burgundy’s greatest winemakers in one of its finest vintages, the transcendental 1955 Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses 1er Cru is the epitome of mature Pinot Noir.
Cellar Favorite: 1947 Petrus
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Bordeaux
, Dec 2025
The 1947 Petrus is one of the most legendary Bordeaux wines of the twentieth century. It is endowed with unerring symmetry and, like the genuine legends of the twentieth century, seems undiminished by time.