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Curse of the Fours: Bouchard Père 1861-2014
Verticals & Retrospectives, featured, France: Burgundy
, Mar 2026
The word for “four” might be unlucky in Japan, but it certainly was not unlucky with regard to a stunning tasting of wines from Bouchard Père’s cellar back to the 19th century. If that’s not enough, a second Bouchard Père dinner held without a numerical theme was just as enthralling. Together, they form an unrepeatable vinous journey through time.
Cellar Favorite: Kopke 80-Year-Old Tawny Port
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, Portugal, Fortified Wines & Spirits
, Mar 2026
There has been a consumer trend towards longer-aged tawnies over the last few years. I find that these wines can be superior to the more renowned vintage Ports, often a little mellower and less high-toned. They are the fortified equivalent of a warm fire on a dismal winter day.
Vinous Table: Bern’s Steakhouse, Tampa, Florida
Vinous Table
, Feb 2026
The first rule of Bern’s is: “Don’t talk about Bern’s.” For years, I had heard tales of this undercover gem with a wine list that makes the Mariana Trench look shallow. Finally, on a visit to the Sunshine State, I had the opportunity to visit and see if Bern’s deserves its reputation.
Cellar Favorite: 1961 & 2019 Smith Haut Lafitte
France: Bordeaux, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Feb 2026
There is nothing greater than a good man, and Daniel Cathiard was a good man. He and his wife, Florence, took Smith Haut-Lafitte, a once dilapidated estate, and devoted their lives to creating two of the region’s finest wines, both red and white. These two bottles were opened with my oldest friends to raise a toast to Daniel Cathiard.
Vinous Table: La Lune, Beaune, France
Vinous Table, France: Burgundy
, Feb 2026
The litmus test of a restaurant is not whether it blows you away on your first sitting, but whether it blows you away on your tenth, or your twentieth. Despite how many times I have eaten at La Lune, my favourite restaurant in Beaune, I always depart feeling elated.
Bordeaux 2023 in Bottle: Coming Around Again
France: Bordeaux, featured
, Feb 2026
Though Bordeaux has its travails, the vintages continue to roll. The bottled 2023s have much to offer those seeking a less concentrated style of claret than the previous vintage provided. As usual, 2023 is not a season without caveats, and as always, it is important to choose wisely. Those who do could be handsomely rewarded.
No Alarm: 2023 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti
featured, France: Burgundy
, Feb 2026
Despite a brief interruption from the fire alarm, it was business as usual as I entered the “classroom” to taste the 2023 releases from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti with “teachers” Bertrand de Villaine and Perrine Fenal. Which cuvées stood out this year?
It’s Rousseau’Clock: Grand Crus 1967-2019
Verticals & Retrospectives, featured, France: Burgundy
, Feb 2026
It’s Rousseau’clock! An epic tasting of Rousseau’s Grand Crus last November provided valuable insight into their Clos de la Roche, Ruchottes and Charmes-Chambertin. Whilst market prices have escalated in recent years, what has not changed is the calibre of their wines.
Cellar Favorite: 2005 Le Dôme
France: Bordeaux, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Feb 2026
Having consistently tasted Le Dôme since the maiden 1996 vintage, it is always fascinating to return to those earliest vintages. The 2005 is drinking perfectly now, and will offer another 12 to 15 years’ drinking pleasure.
Vinous Table: La Trompette, London, UK
Vinous Table, Italy: Tuscany, France: Rhône & Beaujolais
, Jan 2026
You could define a bona fide great restaurant as one where tingles of excitement run down your spine no matter many times you enter its doors. La Trompette is essentially my second home, given the innumerable times I have visited, and I recently returned for two splendid evenings: a Soldera dinner and a Rhône dinner.