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Vinous Table: La Table du Square, Beaune, France
Vinous Table, France: Burgundy
, Mar 2026
It is easy to see why La Table du Square is one of Beaune’s most popular places to dine. There is always a lively atmosphere, and the milk-fed lamb has become one of the area’s must-eat dishes.
Burgundy 2024: The State of Play
featured, France: Burgundy
, Mar 2026
There is much handwringing about the escalation of Burgundy prices. In this opinion piece, I disentangle the interrelated factors that have upheld that gravity-defying escalation, its consequences and how it all might play out.
Curse of the Fours: Bouchard Père 1861-2014
Verticals & Retrospectives, featured, France: Burgundy
, Mar 2026
The word for “four” might be unlucky in Japan, but it certainly was not unlucky with regard to a stunning tasting of wines from Bouchard Père’s cellar back to the 19th century. If that’s not enough, a second Bouchard Père dinner held without a numerical theme was just as enthralling. Together, they form an unrepeatable vinous journey through time.
Cellar Favorite: Kopke 80-Year-Old Tawny Port
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, Portugal, Fortified Wines & Spirits
, Mar 2026
There has been a consumer trend towards longer-aged tawnies over the last few years. I find that these wines can be superior to the more renowned vintage Ports, often a little mellower and less high-toned. They are the fortified equivalent of a warm fire on a dismal winter day.
Vinous Table: Bern’s Steakhouse, Tampa, Florida
Vinous Table
, Feb 2026
The first rule of Bern’s is: “Don’t talk about Bern’s.” For years, I had heard tales of this undercover gem with a wine list that makes the Mariana Trench look shallow. Finally, on a visit to the Sunshine State, I had the opportunity to visit and see if Bern’s deserves its reputation.
Cellar Favorite: 1961 & 2019 Smith Haut Lafitte
France: Bordeaux, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Feb 2026
There is nothing greater than a good man, and Daniel Cathiard was a good man. He and his wife, Florence, took Smith Haut-Lafitte, a once dilapidated estate, and devoted their lives to creating two of the region’s finest wines, both red and white. These two bottles were opened with my oldest friends to raise a toast to Daniel Cathiard.
Vinous Table: La Lune, Beaune, France
Vinous Table, France: Burgundy
, Feb 2026
The litmus test of a restaurant is not whether it blows you away on your first sitting, but whether it blows you away on your tenth, or your twentieth. Despite how many times I have eaten at La Lune, my favourite restaurant in Beaune, I always depart feeling elated.
Bordeaux 2023 in Bottle: Coming Around Again
France: Bordeaux, featured
, Feb 2026
Though Bordeaux has its travails, the vintages continue to roll. The bottled 2023s have much to offer those seeking a less concentrated style of claret than the previous vintage provided. As usual, 2023 is not a season without caveats, and as always, it is important to choose wisely. Those who do could be handsomely rewarded.
No Alarm: 2023 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti
featured, France: Burgundy
, Feb 2026
Despite a brief interruption from the fire alarm, it was business as usual as I entered the “classroom” to taste the 2023 releases from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti with “teachers” Bertrand de Villaine and Perrine Fenal. Which cuvées stood out this year?
It’s Rousseau’Clock: Grand Crus 1967-2019
Verticals & Retrospectives, featured, France: Burgundy
, Feb 2026
It’s Rousseau’clock! An epic tasting of Rousseau’s Grand Crus last November provided valuable insight into their Clos de la Roche, Ruchottes and Charmes-Chambertin. Whilst market prices have escalated in recent years, what has not changed is the calibre of their wines.