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Cellar Favorite: 1973 Californian Cabernets
United States: California, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Oct 2024
A recent discussion about 1970s California wine on the Vinous forum prompted me to cleave away a couple of tasting notes from my round-up of mature wines.
Santa Cruz Mountains – The Chameleon
United States: California, featured
, Oct 2024
The Santa Cruz Mountains boasts a long and storied past that has given rise to some of the most legendary American wines of all time, but the region’s identity is still coming into focus. Zooming in, the 2022 vintage was quite challenging, with mixed results for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, while the 2021 Cabernets are among the most compelling and characterful in California.
Morlet Family Vineyards: Cabernet Sauvignon Mon Chevalier 2007-2019
United States: California, featured, Verticals & Retrospectives
, Oct 2024
Knights Valley is one of the most fascinating regions in Northern California. The AVA lies just north of Calistoga and is nestled between Alexander Valley, Chalk Hill and Fountaingrove in a corner of Sonoma County that feels quite remote and pastoral. Knights Valley excels with red and white Bordeaux varieties. The reds are marked by distinctive savory and mineral notes that, at times, recall the great wines of Pessac-Léognan. Luc and Jodie Morlet’s Cabernet Sauvignon Mon Chevalier is a terrific example of what Knights Valley has to offer. This retrospective back to the inaugural 2007 provided a fascinating opportunity to see how the wine ages.
Vinous Table: Bar Le Côte, Los Olivos, CA
United States: California, Vinous Table
, Oct 2024
The food scene in Los Olivos has improved dramatically in recent years. I sensed a palpable increase in the quality of local restaurants on my most recent visit this past July. Perhaps the long-awaited re-opening of Mattei’s Tavern was a catalyst. I can’t say for sure. What does seem evident is that visitors today have unparalleled options when it comes to exploring the local dining scene. Bar Le Côte is one of the crown jewels in Santa Barbara wine country.
Cellar Favorite: 1984 Ridge Zinfandel Geyserville Trentadue
United States: California, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Sep 2024
The 1984 Zinfandel Geyserville Trentadue is one of Ridge’s more obscure single-vineyard bottlings. This cuvée is a blend of 95% Zinfandel and 5% Petit Sirah that came from a vineyard established by Evelyn and Leo Trentadue.
Book Excerpt: Common Ground – Charting the Future of Napa Valley
United States: California, featured, General Interest
, Sep 2024
I spent a large part of my career working with growers and vintners to capture in our federally recognized American Viticultural Areas (AVAs) the essence of what makes Napa Valley a unique and world-class winegrowing region. Over time, we have come to recognize some of the viticultural distinctions that were overlooked. Napa Valley should be at the forefront of establishing a vineyard registry and that registry should be expanded from historic vineyards to all vineyard designations in Napa Valley that are used on wine labels.
Santa Lucia Highlands: Steely and Steadfast in 2022
United States: California, featured
, Aug 2024
The Santa Lucia Highlands weathered the challenges of 2022 with grace and aplomb, managing to stave off the punishing heat that afflicted so many of the other wine-growing regions in California. The wines further solidify the SLH’s position as a bastion of quality and consistency in the Central Coast.
Vinous Table: Hitching Post II, Buellton, CA
United States: California, Vinous Table
, Aug 2024
Frank and Natalie Ostini bought the Casmalia Hitching Post in 1952 near what today is Vandenberg Air Force Base (then Camp Cooke). Frank Ostini was a carpenter by trade looking for a new career. He spent three months with the former owner learning how to cook over an open flame, and that was that. The Ostini family ran the original Hitching Post with their children for several decades before opening Hitching Post II in Buellton in 1986. A few years later, in 1993, the brothers dissolved their partnership. Son Frank Ostini kept the Buellton restaurant. “I wanted to be closer to wine country and offer a slightly more varied, contemporary menu,” Ostini told me.
Santa Barbara: California's Undiscovered Jewel
United States: California, featured
, Aug 2024
My tastings this year further confirmed what I have believed for a long time. Santa Barbara County is one of the most exciting and dynamic regions in the world. Despite dealing with the ups and downs of 2022, inspired winemakers found a way to deliver compelling wines that rank among the world’s finest. Readers who appreciate nuanced, cool-climate wines of place will find so much to discover in Santa Barbara.
Vinous Table: S.Y. Kitchen, Santa Ynez, CA
United States: California, Vinous Table
, Jul 2024
This recent dinner at S.Y. Kitchen was one of the best meals I have had in a very long time. I am not sure why, but several years had passed since my last visit. That is not a mistake I will make again. Everything we tried was divine.