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Keller Excellence
Germany, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured
, Mar 2023
For nearly 20 years, Klaus Peter Keller has almost surely been Germany’s most written-about wine grower, both at home and abroad. What makes his estate perhaps the most exciting in Germany today? This article takes a close look at the people, places and mystique surrounding Weingut Keller, including detailed notes on wines from vintages 2019-2021.
Cellar Favorite: 2001 Weingut Keller Dalsheimer Hubacker Riesling Auslese *** Goldkapsel
Germany, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Jan 2023
Klaus-Peter Keller’s wines have become collector catnip in recent years, with prices to match. It seems a long time since I made my only visit to the estate. In 2022, I was fortunate to taste several recent vintages and almost forgot this mature gem.
Mittelrhein 2019-2020: A Misunderstood Region
Germany, featured
, Jul 2022
With only a small number of well-known estates, it is easy to overlook the viticultural significance of one of Germany’s most popular tourist destinations. That would be an unfortunate mistake. Mittelrhein's producers are turning out high quality wines that showcase a wide variety of styles.
Saar Riesling 2019-2020: Selective Excellence
featured, Germany: Saar
, May 2022
While you aren’t likely to mistake a 2019 German Riesling for its 2020 counterpart – least of all in the Greater Mosel – the two growing seasons had surprisingly much in common. And from that, there’s a lot to learn.
The Wines That Shaped My Life
France: Champagne, France: Burgundy, Germany, New Zealand, France: Bordeaux, France: Rhône & Beaujolais, featured
, Mar 2022
A charity dinner themed around the significant wines of my career threw up a couple of surprises. I doubt DRC and Blue Nun have ever found themselves reviewed in the same article. In these days of bleak headlines, the vignettes accompanying these eclectic wines hopefully put a smile on your face.
Rheingau and Mittelrhein 2018s: Mixed Riesling Results
Germany, featured
, Apr 2021
The challenges posed by summer drought and sheer precocity of vine evolution are evident in the Rheingau and Mittelrhein, but there are numerous wines that no Riesling lovers should miss.
The Pfalz – Not False – Promise of 2018
Germany, featured
, Mar 2021
Vintage 2018 is not a show-stopper for Pfalz Riesling. Nor are the wines likely to go down in history for their longevity. Yet, it isn’t just an eminently appealing vintage, it’s also one of enormous promise, not just for the Pfalz, but for what it says about where German Riesling as a whole could be headed.
The Year of Jazz & Wine: 1959
Germany, Spain, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured, France
, Nov 2020
Two extraordinary 1959-themed dinners at the end of last year presented a mouthwatering opportunity to examine this legendary vintage. This article looks at those wines and some of the stories that lie behind them.
Rheinhessen 2018: Revelatory Rieslings
Germany, featured
, Nov 2020
For any oenophiles still unaware – or seeking proof – that Rheinhessen justifies a buzz of critical acclaim and consumer excitement currently unsurpassed worldwide by any Riesling growing region, a perusal of the wines turned out in 2018 should do the trick.
Generosity and Diversity - Mosel 2018: Graach to Grünhaus
germany: Mosel, featured
, Nov 2020
It’s the rare wine among Mosel Rieslings of 2018 – a generally forthcoming, even effusive bunch – that seems to demand cellaring, and then usually only because a surfeit of sweetness is among a given wine’s generous-to-a-fault characteristics. Continuing upstream, I offer my second of two reports on the 2018 vintage Mosel Rieslings, here including those from estates based along the Ruwer.