The Harwood Arms

Walham Grove

London SW6 1QP, United Kingdom

Tel.: +44 20 7386 1847

 

BY IAN D’AGATA | SEPTEMBER 23, 2016 

The food:

Barbecued beetroot with goat’s cheese, pistachio and bitter leaves

Cornish monkfish tail with a white bean broth, Isle of Wight tomatoes and basil

Cornish sea bass with Jersey Royals, pickled mussole, smoked eel, and sorrel

Poached pear with vanilla cream, walnut, stem ginger

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The wines:

2010 Gusbourne Blanc de Blancs Traditional Method Kent	91
2010 Hush Heath Estate Balfiour Traditional Method Brut Rosé Kent	90
2000 Vincent Girardin Montrachet Grand Cru	98+

 

The Harwood Arms is one of my three or four favorite places to eat out in London; actually, its relaxed, comfortable setting, superior food and outstanding wine list makes it one of my favorite restaurants in the world. I simply never tire of sitting down at one of the Harwood’s comfortable tables, surrounded by friendly staff and happy patrons alike. The extremely reasonable prices, given the quality of the food, are just one more reason to smile all day long (be aware that lunch is an especially good, inexpensive deal).

Barbecued beetroot with goat’s cheese, pistachio and bitter leaves

The Harwood Arms was built in about 1840 as a pub, and it certainly looks and acts the part. No fancy tablecloths or linen but elegant “country-style” table settings, a chalkboard with the daily specials, and very good wines by the glass await you to start your meal off. The modern day history of The Harwood Arms begins only in 2008, when three UK food luminaries joined forces; and so the collaboration between Brett Graham (of The Ledbury), Mike Robinson (of The Pot Kiln), and Edwin Vaux (The Vaux Brewery) has led to the creation of what is truly a fine dining jewel that has reaped countless awards and boasts a very well deserved one Michelin star. Chef Alex Harper began his career working under Mark Wilkinson at Latymer, then worked at Le Manoir aux Quat' Saisons, reached head chef status at the much acclaimed Texture, then worked more years under Graham at The Ledbury, possibly London’s best restaurant. He has been head chef of The Harwood Arms since April 2014.

Cornish monkfish tail with a white bean broth, Isle of Wight tomatoes and basil

I recently had another wonderful meal at The Harwood Arms, one that I will easily remember as one of my most pleasant eating experiences of 2016. Although I love the signature venison chorizo at the Harwood, after having taken a gander at the wine list, I passed on this staple of mine to concentrate on fish. And I am glad I did: the Cornish monkfish tail with a white bean broth, Isle of Wight tomatoes and basil and the Cornish sea bass with Jersey Royals, pickled mussels, smoked eel, and sorrel were outstandingly prepared and plated, with thick, beautifully snow white colored rich fish meat and very precise accompaniments that nicely framed, rather than overpowered, the complex but subtle flavors of the two fishes. For us wine and food lovers, the Isle of Wight tomatoes are especially noteworthy: as if it’s spectacular seaside views weren’t enough, England’s largest Island produces close to 60% of all organic tomatoes farmed in the United Kingdom. Yellow cherry, baby plum, large cocktail, and tiger zebra are but some of the sixteen varieties grown on the island and sold commercially, and as they are reputed to be the United Kingdom’s best tomatoes at all, they can be easily found in higher level UK food emporiums like Waitrose, Sainsbury’s or Marks & Spencer. Last but not least, a sweets lover such as myself rarely passes on dessert, and I am glad I didn’t on this evening (you will be too): the coffee&doughnuts were so good I could have easily ordered another two servings, but my abdominal girth is such now that I thought better of it (reluctantly, I’ll admit).

Cornish sea bass with Jersey Royals, pickled mussole, smoked eel, and sorrel

My meal was made that much better by the three absolutely gorgeous wines I tried on this night. I love English sparklers. Their bright acidity is such that they are extremely food friendly and perfect not just as aperitifs, but ideal dinner companions for most of almost any meal’s duration. I started with an irresistible quaffer, the 2010 Gusbourne Blanc de Blancs Traditional Method Kent, which was loaded with delicate white flowers, honey and nectarine aromas and flavors nicely complemented by nuances of buttered toast and hazelnut. Showcasing lovely balance and sneaky concentration, it’s a testament to winemaker’s Charlie Holland ability at teasing out round, complex flavors. 

Next up, the 2010 Hush Heath Estate Balfour Traditional Method Brut Rosé Kent is an extremely enjoyable blend of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier, redolent of delicate redcurrant aromas and flavors complicated by a gingery and white pepper spiciness. Last but certainly not least, the 2000 Vincent Girardin Le Montrachet Grand Cru showed just how unimaginably great the wines from this hallowed vineyard can be when the grape vines are tended by talented, passionate individuals. Over the years, I have had my share of duds (or at the very least, wines that were far less than what they should have been given their pedigree) from this near mythical site, but there’s no such danger with this specific vintage from Girardin, who came up with a masterpiece. Rich, dense and magically perfumed, with hints of orange blossom and acacia complementing honeyed orchard fruits, fresh citrus and marzipan aromas and flavors, this beautiful wine featured a suave texture and massive concentration, while remaining elegant and light on its feet at the same time (not exactly an easy feat).

At meal’s end, I walked out of The Harwood Arms and into Fulham’s busy streets brimming with happy people and found myself thinking that I have never had less than a wonderful meal at The Harwood Arms. In fact, most have been downright exceptional, just like this last one.

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