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Producer name: Badenhorst Family Wines

Wines:

2022 Sk'windjies Vlei
Color: Red

Score: 92.0

Drinking window: 2025 - 2042

Tasting notes: The 2022 Sk'Windjies Vlei, which translates as "gusty wind over a marsh," fortunately, doesn't smell like it. It is pure Tinta Barocca from a vineyard that supplies several winemakers with their fruit. The pretty bouquet has vivacious licorice and iodine-scented red berry fruit, with touches of marmalade coming through in time. The palate is medium-bodied and slightly savory, with a powdery texture, gentle grip, and a balanced, focused, slightly chewy finish. Very fine. 

Producer Commentary:
There’s always a simmering sense of controlled chaos whenever I visit Adi Badenhorst at his Swartland winery. That’s not meant pejoratively, but I feel he thrives in such an environment, a sort of “anything goes” feel that has served him so well over the years. There are always people milling about the place, which I sometimes think looks like a bric-a-brac shop that has accumulated all sorts of odds and ends over many years. It disguises the fact that Badenhorst has plenty of business acumen, for example, establishing his highly successful range of spirits, his ubiquitous entry-level Secateurs labels and his successful acquisition of the neighboring farm together with Eben Sadie. Perhaps this ethos resulted in a selection that seemed to change with every vintage, many with Dutch-inspired cuvées that are not the easiest to pronounce. But in this visit, following my tasting, Badenhorst told me he plans to simplify his range and blend the single vineyards together. I think this is a positive move and will allow him to focus on a limited number of labels instead of spinning many plates. Tasting through his 2022s, there’s plenty here to like, especially his Kalmoesfontein Red Blend made predominantly from whole bunch Syrah. Maybe we’ll see more of Badenhorst perfecting these more conservative blends rather than his more outré labels…but he might well have changed his mind since I saw him.
2018 Sk'windjiesvlei
Color: Red

Score: 92.0

Drinking window: 2021 - 2037

Tasting notes: The 2018 Sk’windjiesvlei is simply pure Tinta Barocca aged in two 500-liter barrels. Deep purple in color, it has a tertiary, tree-bark-tinged bouquet with plenty of plump dark plummy and boysenberry fruit, all well defined. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, a slightly powdery texture and a fine bead of acidity toward an intense, powerful finish that takes you to the Capelands via the Douro Valley! Well worth seeking out. 

Producer Commentary:
2025 Grenache Blanc Akkerbos (Cwg)
Color: White

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 2028 - 2048

Tasting notes: The 2025 Grenache Blanc Akkerbos (CWG), which comes from the Badenhorsts' farm in Swartland, has a nuanced bouquet with hints of wild fennel and white linen, very well defined but introspective at the moment (unlike its winemaker). The palate really translates the variety's texture with chutzpah and insistent grip, quite nutty/smoky in style. The compelling finale offers ample depth and texture. This is one of the finest whites in the CWG lineup. 

Producer Commentary:
2016 Family Red
Color: Red

Score: 0.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: The 2016 Family Red has a noticeably deep colour. The nose on the first bottle was a little oxidized and lacked some freshness, the second a little better, loaded with VA on the nose while the palate feels a bit stewed. Heavy-handed. Tasted blind at the South Africa Ten Years On tasting in London.

Producer Commentary:
2025 Papegaai White
Color: White

Score: 86.0

Drinking window: 2025 - 2029

Tasting notes: The 2025 Papegaai White is a little earthier on the nose than other cuvées, perhaps just needs a little more presence and fruit. The palate is smooth and harmonious, with lemon rind and light beeswax notes, quite elegant and refined on the finish.

Producer Commentary:
2025 Papegaai Red
Color: Red

Score: 88.0

Drinking window: 2025 - 2029

Tasting notes: The 2025 Papegaai Red, which has minimal SO2 and includes 20 varietals, both white and red. It has a pretty bouquet with redcurrant and crushed strawberry that has a bit more oomph compared to the white. The palate is medium-bodied with crunchy red fruit, lively with a bright and perky finish.

Producer Commentary:
2025 Shiraz Grenache Cinsault Secateurs
Color: Red

Score: 0.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: The 2025 Shiraz Grenache Cinsault Secateurs has just been bottled and was not tasted.

Producer Commentary:
2025 Secateurs Riviera
Color: White

Score: 89.0

Drinking window: 2025 - 2031

Tasting notes: The 2025 Secateurs Riviera is based around 67% Chenin Blanc. It has an elegant bouquet with yellow plum and lanolin scents, simple but nicely focused. The palate is well balanced with a pleasing waxy texture like the Secateurs, but this is spicier with stem ginger and lemongrass brightening the finish. Enjoy this over five or six years.

Producer Commentary:
2025 Chenin Blanc Secateurs
Color: White

Score: 88.0

Drinking window: 2025 - 2030

Tasting notes: The 2025 Chenin Blanc Secateurs sees no new oak. This is bright and fresh on the nose, with citrus peel and light orange pith scents. The palate is well balanced, with a lovely texture, hints of orange rind and walnut on the entry, with a slightly smoky finish. Very fine.

Producer Commentary:
2024 Syrah Jakkalsfontein Turksvy
Color: Red

Score: 96.0

Drinking window: 2027 - 2049

Tasting notes: The 2024 Syrah Jakkalsfontein Turksvy comes from the same vineyard where growers like Damascene, Mullineux and Savage source their fruit. There is a very slight but clever reduction on the nose that gradually reveals vivid brambly red fruit mingling with briar and allspice. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly darker red fruit, gentle grip, a little Cornas-like with its grainy, structured finish. What a fabulous debut from Badenhorst.

Producer Commentary:
2024 Out of the Strong Comes Forth Freshness (Cwg)
Color: Red

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 2025 - 2038

Tasting notes: The 2024 Out of the Strong Comes Forth Freshness (CWG) is 100% Carignan from Jakkalsfontein, the farm next to Adi Badenhorst's. It has a vibrant nose with blackberry and raspberry fruit, very pure and well defined. The palate is very well structured, brambly red fruit mixed with a subtle herbaceousness that imparts a sense of coolness. Lovely.

Producer Commentary:
2024 Grensloos Chenin Blanc
Color: White

Score: 92.0

Drinking window: 2025 - 2035

Tasting notes: The 2024 Grensloos Chenin Blanc is raised in concrete and cask. It has a knockout nose with lifted lemon verbena, chamomile and fynbos scents that blossom in the glass. Very fine delineation. The palate is taut and fresh with a silver line of acidity. Lightly spiced with a pithy, lemongrass-tinged finish, this is a very capable and quite delicious Chenin that I could see partnering Asian cuisine with style.

Producer Commentary:
2023 White Blend Kalmoesfontein
Color: White

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 2026 - 2040

Tasting notes: The 2023 White Blend Kalmoesfontein is a field blend that spends one year in very old foudres plus ten months in concrete. There is a touch of reduction on the nose, with honeysuckle and jasmine scents and ample white fruit. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, waxy in texture, with a bright and edgy, saline finish that urges you back for more. One of the best whites that Adi Badenhorst has made.

Producer Commentary:
2024 Grenache Raaigras
Color: Red

Score: 92.0

Drinking window: 2026 - 2041

Tasting notes: The 2024 Grenache Raaigras is raised in vats, cask and concrete (Badenhorst's words). Gorgeous red cherry and cranberry scents blossom on the nose, very pure and well defined. Dare I say, a bit Rayas in style? The palate is medium-bodied with crunchy red fruit, a fine line of acidity, a little drier towards the finish, but it will flesh out with bottle age.

Producer Commentary:
2015 White Blend Kalmoesfontein
Color: White

Score: 90.0

Drinking window: 2025 - 2032

Tasting notes: The 2015 White Blend Kalmoesfontein has very slight reduction on the nose, orange pith and light citrus notes, a touch of lemon sherbet. The palate is crisp and fresh with a keen line of acidity, impressive tension with a twist of sour lemon/tonic water toward the finish. Refreshing and moreish. Tasted blind at the 10-Year-On horizontal in London.

Producer Commentary:
2015 Red Blend Kalmoesfontein
Color: Red

Score: 88.0

Drinking window: 2025 - 2031

Tasting notes: The 2015 Red Blend Kalmoesfontein has an attractive bouquet: red plum and cranberry jus, fine delineation if not the complexity of the best in this flight. There is some reduction here. The palate is medium-bodied with chewy tannins, a muscular wine that needs to show more elegance and terroir expression. There is something a little old school about this. Tasted blind at the 10-Year-On horizontal in London.

Producer Commentary:
2015 Brak Kuil Barbarossa
Color: Red

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 2025 - 2038

Tasting notes: The 2015 Brak-Kuil Barbarossa takes a few minutes to get into its stride…but it does. Blackberry, briary notes, a subtle sprig of wild mint and crushed stone emerge, with the oak neatly integrated. The palate is well balanced with a bright opening. Fine tannins offer so much freshness and vitality after a decade, gaining complexity toward the vivid and prolonged finish. Superb, though a second bottle was not as fresh. Tasted blind at the 10-Year-On horizontal in London.

Producer Commentary:
2015 Grenache Noir Raaigras
Color: Red

Score: 87.0

Drinking window: 2025 - 2032

Tasting notes: The 2015 Grenache Noir Raaigras has a more feral bouquet, plenty of undergrowth scents, morels and leather, though it feels a bit diffuse. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins and a keen line of acidity, slightly chalky in style. Plenty of tension. It lacks some grip on the finish and feels a bit flat. Maybe just a wine that is past its peak. Tasted blind at the 10-Year-On horizontal in London.

Producer Commentary:
2023 Ringmuur
Color: Red

Score: 90.0

Drinking window: 2025 - 2033

Tasting notes: The 2023 Ringmuur is pure Cinsault from a single vineyard planted in the 1960s, raised in concrete vat. Perfumed and floral on the nose, wild strawberry commingles with pressed rose petals and pastille tones from the small proportion of carbonic maceration. The palate is medium-bodied with a smooth texture, tart red cherry fruit dovetailing into a more mineral-driven, quite strict finish. Give it a year in bottle. 

Producer Commentary:
Adi Badenhorst was out in the vineyard on the Kalmoesfontein farm, planting new vines with his team on an overcast day in Swartland. (Readers will see a video on Vinous.) We took a few minutes to tour the expanded vineyard following his acquisition of some 200 hectares. Apart from supplying fruit for his own estate, this has become a source for some of the Cape’s best winemakers seeking top-quality fruit. Badenhorst told me that he has been working on pruning with Rosa Kruger, suckering a bit later in order to obtain more time on the vine. As I mentioned a couple of reports ago, he parsed out some of his more esoteric limited cuvées, although the inquisitive side of his personality means he always pulls one or two surprises out of his pocket. This time, it is a couple of sherries he’s dabbled with behind the scenes. Readers will find these in the report under The Saldanha Wine & Spirit Co.

As I have mentioned in recent articles, Badenhorst now has what I feel is a more consistent range of wines compared to ten years ago. He has an inquisitive mind that could occasionally lead to cuvées that did not quite work, but hey, wine needs people to take risks, experiment and try new things. At least in Secateurs, he has a very successful and instantly recognizable entry-level brand. That’s not to say that his wines have lost their edge, which is what many find attractive about them, including myself. There’s always a scintilla of funkiness. Readers should keep their eyes peeled for an impressive debut in the form of his 2023 Grensloos Chenin Blanc.
2023 Red Blend Kalmoesfontein
Color: Red

Score: 92.0

Drinking window: 2025 - 2037

Tasting notes: The 2023 Red Blend Kalmoesfontein comes from the top Syrah, Grenache and Cinsault vineyards, this year also including 5% Cabernet Sauvignon from 26-year-old vines. The nose is delineated and focused, revealing dark berry fruit mixed with bay leaf and Earl Grey, youthful and vigorous. The palate is medium-bodied with a menthol-tinged entry and grainy tannins, almost powdery in texture, with a slightly ferrous finish that fans out very well. Excellent. 

Producer Commentary:
Adi Badenhorst was out in the vineyard on the Kalmoesfontein farm, planting new vines with his team on an overcast day in Swartland. (Readers will see a video on Vinous.) We took a few minutes to tour the expanded vineyard following his acquisition of some 200 hectares. Apart from supplying fruit for his own estate, this has become a source for some of the Cape’s best winemakers seeking top-quality fruit. Badenhorst told me that he has been working on pruning with Rosa Kruger, suckering a bit later in order to obtain more time on the vine. As I mentioned a couple of reports ago, he parsed out some of his more esoteric limited cuvées, although the inquisitive side of his personality means he always pulls one or two surprises out of his pocket. This time, it is a couple of sherries he’s dabbled with behind the scenes. Readers will find these in the report under The Saldanha Wine & Spirit Co.

As I have mentioned in recent articles, Badenhorst now has what I feel is a more consistent range of wines compared to ten years ago. He has an inquisitive mind that could occasionally lead to cuvées that did not quite work, but hey, wine needs people to take risks, experiment and try new things. At least in Secateurs, he has a very successful and instantly recognizable entry-level brand. That’s not to say that his wines have lost their edge, which is what many find attractive about them, including myself. There’s always a scintilla of funkiness. Readers should keep their eyes peeled for an impressive debut in the form of his 2023 Grensloos Chenin Blanc.
2023 Grenache Raaigras
Color: Red

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 2025 - 2042

Tasting notes: The 2023 Grenache Raaigras has plenty of red cherry, crushed strawberry, menthol and light rose petal scents that convey a sense of exuberance. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly sweeter fruit on the entry, but there's real structure here. It’s quite sapid on the finish that lingers in the mouth. This is one of my favorite releases from Adi Badenhorst this year. 

Producer Commentary:
Adi Badenhorst was out in the vineyard on the Kalmoesfontein farm, planting new vines with his team on an overcast day in Swartland. (Readers will see a video on Vinous.) We took a few minutes to tour the expanded vineyard following his acquisition of some 200 hectares. Apart from supplying fruit for his own estate, this has become a source for some of the Cape’s best winemakers seeking top-quality fruit. Badenhorst told me that he has been working on pruning with Rosa Kruger, suckering a bit later in order to obtain more time on the vine. As I mentioned a couple of reports ago, he parsed out some of his more esoteric limited cuvées, although the inquisitive side of his personality means he always pulls one or two surprises out of his pocket. This time, it is a couple of sherries he’s dabbled with behind the scenes. Readers will find these in the report under The Saldanha Wine & Spirit Co.

As I have mentioned in recent articles, Badenhorst now has what I feel is a more consistent range of wines compared to ten years ago. He has an inquisitive mind that could occasionally lead to cuvées that did not quite work, but hey, wine needs people to take risks, experiment and try new things. At least in Secateurs, he has a very successful and instantly recognizable entry-level brand. That’s not to say that his wines have lost their edge, which is what many find attractive about them, including myself. There’s always a scintilla of funkiness. Readers should keep their eyes peeled for an impressive debut in the form of his 2023 Grensloos Chenin Blanc.
2023 Cinsault Ramnasgras
Color: Red

Score: 91.0

Drinking window: 2025 - 2034

Tasting notes: The 2023 Cinsault Ramnasgras comes from a single vineyard parcel planted in the 1960s, raised in concrete vat. This is more vigorous on the nose than the Ringmuur, displaying raspberry, wild strawberry and a touch of vanilla. The palate is ripe and juicy (apparently this was the ripest fruit Adi Badenhorst picked in 2023, coming in at around 13.5% alcohol), with the small amount of Grenache lending flesh on the finish. 

Producer Commentary:
Adi Badenhorst was out in the vineyard on the Kalmoesfontein farm, planting new vines with his team on an overcast day in Swartland. (Readers will see a video on Vinous.) We took a few minutes to tour the expanded vineyard following his acquisition of some 200 hectares. Apart from supplying fruit for his own estate, this has become a source for some of the Cape’s best winemakers seeking top-quality fruit. Badenhorst told me that he has been working on pruning with Rosa Kruger, suckering a bit later in order to obtain more time on the vine. As I mentioned a couple of reports ago, he parsed out some of his more esoteric limited cuvées, although the inquisitive side of his personality means he always pulls one or two surprises out of his pocket. This time, it is a couple of sherries he’s dabbled with behind the scenes. Readers will find these in the report under The Saldanha Wine & Spirit Co.

As I have mentioned in recent articles, Badenhorst now has what I feel is a more consistent range of wines compared to ten years ago. He has an inquisitive mind that could occasionally lead to cuvées that did not quite work, but hey, wine needs people to take risks, experiment and try new things. At least in Secateurs, he has a very successful and instantly recognizable entry-level brand. That’s not to say that his wines have lost their edge, which is what many find attractive about them, including myself. There’s always a scintilla of funkiness. Readers should keep their eyes peeled for an impressive debut in the form of his 2023 Grensloos Chenin Blanc.
2024 Shiraz Grenache Cinsault Secateurs
Color: Red

Score: 88.0

Drinking window: 2024 - 2028

Tasting notes: The 2024 Shiraz Grenache Cinsault Secateurs literally came straight from the bottling line, the clink of glass audible outside the tasting room. Based mainly on Syrah, this has an appealing, finely delineated raspberry- and cranberry-scented bouquet. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly powdery tannins, crunchy cranberry fruit and a brisk, well-defined, moreish finish. Drink over three to four years. 

Producer Commentary:
Adi Badenhorst was out in the vineyard on the Kalmoesfontein farm, planting new vines with his team on an overcast day in Swartland. (Readers will see a video on Vinous.) We took a few minutes to tour the expanded vineyard following his acquisition of some 200 hectares. Apart from supplying fruit for his own estate, this has become a source for some of the Cape’s best winemakers seeking top-quality fruit. Badenhorst told me that he has been working on pruning with Rosa Kruger, suckering a bit later in order to obtain more time on the vine. As I mentioned a couple of reports ago, he parsed out some of his more esoteric limited cuvées, although the inquisitive side of his personality means he always pulls one or two surprises out of his pocket. This time, it is a couple of sherries he’s dabbled with behind the scenes. Readers will find these in the report under The Saldanha Wine & Spirit Co.

As I have mentioned in recent articles, Badenhorst now has what I feel is a more consistent range of wines compared to ten years ago. He has an inquisitive mind that could occasionally lead to cuvées that did not quite work, but hey, wine needs people to take risks, experiment and try new things. At least in Secateurs, he has a very successful and instantly recognizable entry-level brand. That’s not to say that his wines have lost their edge, which is what many find attractive about them, including myself. There’s always a scintilla of funkiness. Readers should keep their eyes peeled for an impressive debut in the form of his 2023 Grensloos Chenin Blanc.
2024 Papegaai
Color: Red

Score: 88.0

Drinking window: 2024 - 2028

Tasting notes: The 2024 Papegaai, which means parrot, is an unsulfured blend of 55% red and 45% white varieties that comes from the farm, sold mainly in Canada. It has a nose of tart red cherries, like a young Grenache. The palate is crisp and crunchy with no funkiness at all, closing with a grippy cherry and raspberry finish. Delicious. 

Producer Commentary:
Adi Badenhorst was out in the vineyard on the Kalmoesfontein farm, planting new vines with his team on an overcast day in Swartland. (Readers will see a video on Vinous.) We took a few minutes to tour the expanded vineyard following his acquisition of some 200 hectares. Apart from supplying fruit for his own estate, this has become a source for some of the Cape’s best winemakers seeking top-quality fruit. Badenhorst told me that he has been working on pruning with Rosa Kruger, suckering a bit later in order to obtain more time on the vine. As I mentioned a couple of reports ago, he parsed out some of his more esoteric limited cuvées, although the inquisitive side of his personality means he always pulls one or two surprises out of his pocket. This time, it is a couple of sherries he’s dabbled with behind the scenes. Readers will find these in the report under The Saldanha Wine & Spirit Co.

As I have mentioned in recent articles, Badenhorst now has what I feel is a more consistent range of wines compared to ten years ago. He has an inquisitive mind that could occasionally lead to cuvées that did not quite work, but hey, wine needs people to take risks, experiment and try new things. At least in Secateurs, he has a very successful and instantly recognizable entry-level brand. That’s not to say that his wines have lost their edge, which is what many find attractive about them, including myself. There’s always a scintilla of funkiness. Readers should keep their eyes peeled for an impressive debut in the form of his 2023 Grensloos Chenin Blanc.
2022 White Blend Kalmoesfontein
Color: White

Score: 92.0

Drinking window: 2025 - 2035

Tasting notes: The 2022 White Blend Kalmoesfontein, fermented in foudres and aged in concrete for 20 months, has a tightly wound bouquet that demands coaxing: melted candle wax, white flowers and a very slight Muscat note from the 1-2% of that variety in the blend. The palate is well balanced with a crisp line of acidity, palpable energy and poise, closing with a refined, pithy, orange-rind-tinged finish. Excellent. 

Producer Commentary:
Adi Badenhorst was out in the vineyard on the Kalmoesfontein farm, planting new vines with his team on an overcast day in Swartland. (Readers will see a video on Vinous.) We took a few minutes to tour the expanded vineyard following his acquisition of some 200 hectares. Apart from supplying fruit for his own estate, this has become a source for some of the Cape’s best winemakers seeking top-quality fruit. Badenhorst told me that he has been working on pruning with Rosa Kruger, suckering a bit later in order to obtain more time on the vine. As I mentioned a couple of reports ago, he parsed out some of his more esoteric limited cuvées, although the inquisitive side of his personality means he always pulls one or two surprises out of his pocket. This time, it is a couple of sherries he’s dabbled with behind the scenes. Readers will find these in the report under The Saldanha Wine & Spirit Co.

As I have mentioned in recent articles, Badenhorst now has what I feel is a more consistent range of wines compared to ten years ago. He has an inquisitive mind that could occasionally lead to cuvées that did not quite work, but hey, wine needs people to take risks, experiment and try new things. At least in Secateurs, he has a very successful and instantly recognizable entry-level brand. That’s not to say that his wines have lost their edge, which is what many find attractive about them, including myself. There’s always a scintilla of funkiness. Readers should keep their eyes peeled for an impressive debut in the form of his 2023 Grensloos Chenin Blanc.
2023 Secateurs Riviera
Color: White

Score: 88.0

Drinking window: 2024 - 2029

Tasting notes: The 2023 Secateurs Riviera is Adi Badenhorst's orange wine from the "River Block" which, unsurprising given its winemaker's sense of humor, is actually nowhere near a river. It was typically blended into the Secateurs Chenin until several years ago. Scents of marmalade and candle wax develop on the adhesive-scented nose. The palate is really all about the texture—very waxy so that is lacquers the mouth, with just a touch of nuttiness and smoke on the finish. Fine. 

Producer Commentary:
Adi Badenhorst was out in the vineyard on the Kalmoesfontein farm, planting new vines with his team on an overcast day in Swartland. (Readers will see a video on Vinous.) We took a few minutes to tour the expanded vineyard following his acquisition of some 200 hectares. Apart from supplying fruit for his own estate, this has become a source for some of the Cape’s best winemakers seeking top-quality fruit. Badenhorst told me that he has been working on pruning with Rosa Kruger, suckering a bit later in order to obtain more time on the vine. As I mentioned a couple of reports ago, he parsed out some of his more esoteric limited cuvées, although the inquisitive side of his personality means he always pulls one or two surprises out of his pocket. This time, it is a couple of sherries he’s dabbled with behind the scenes. Readers will find these in the report under The Saldanha Wine & Spirit Co.

As I have mentioned in recent articles, Badenhorst now has what I feel is a more consistent range of wines compared to ten years ago. He has an inquisitive mind that could occasionally lead to cuvées that did not quite work, but hey, wine needs people to take risks, experiment and try new things. At least in Secateurs, he has a very successful and instantly recognizable entry-level brand. That’s not to say that his wines have lost their edge, which is what many find attractive about them, including myself. There’s always a scintilla of funkiness. Readers should keep their eyes peeled for an impressive debut in the form of his 2023 Grensloos Chenin Blanc.
2023 Palomino Sout Vandie Aarde
Color: White

Score: 90.0

Drinking window: 2024 - 2030

Tasting notes: The 2023 Palomino Sout Vandie Aarde is the final vintage, as henceforth, it will be blended into Badenhorst's sherry project. Aged in one 1,200-liter vat, this has an attractive crushed stone, almost flinty nose with a light sea spray element. The palate is well balanced with a slightly honeyed entry, fine acidity and a resinous finish. I'm gonna miss this… 

Producer Commentary:
Adi Badenhorst was out in the vineyard on the Kalmoesfontein farm, planting new vines with his team on an overcast day in Swartland. (Readers will see a video on Vinous.) We took a few minutes to tour the expanded vineyard following his acquisition of some 200 hectares. Apart from supplying fruit for his own estate, this has become a source for some of the Cape’s best winemakers seeking top-quality fruit. Badenhorst told me that he has been working on pruning with Rosa Kruger, suckering a bit later in order to obtain more time on the vine. As I mentioned a couple of reports ago, he parsed out some of his more esoteric limited cuvées, although the inquisitive side of his personality means he always pulls one or two surprises out of his pocket. This time, it is a couple of sherries he’s dabbled with behind the scenes. Readers will find these in the report under The Saldanha Wine & Spirit Co.

As I have mentioned in recent articles, Badenhorst now has what I feel is a more consistent range of wines compared to ten years ago. He has an inquisitive mind that could occasionally lead to cuvées that did not quite work, but hey, wine needs people to take risks, experiment and try new things. At least in Secateurs, he has a very successful and instantly recognizable entry-level brand. That’s not to say that his wines have lost their edge, which is what many find attractive about them, including myself. There’s always a scintilla of funkiness. Readers should keep their eyes peeled for an impressive debut in the form of his 2023 Grensloos Chenin Blanc.
2023 Chenin Blanc Grensloos
Color: White

Score: 92.0

Drinking window: 2024 - 2032

Tasting notes: The 2023 Chenin Blanc Grensloos is a new addition to the range. Grensloos translates to "without borders." This cuvée comprises several vineyards, around 30% from Jakkobsfontein on deep red gravel soils, matured in concrete and 400-liter casks. It has a beautifully defined bouquet of yellow fruit and hints of dried honey. The palate is well defined with a fine bead of acidity and touches of peach skin, quince, white pepper and fennel. Very harmonious and poised, this is a superb debut. 

Producer Commentary:
Adi Badenhorst was out in the vineyard on the Kalmoesfontein farm, planting new vines with his team on an overcast day in Swartland. (Readers will see a video on Vinous.) We took a few minutes to tour the expanded vineyard following his acquisition of some 200 hectares. Apart from supplying fruit for his own estate, this has become a source for some of the Cape’s best winemakers seeking top-quality fruit. Badenhorst told me that he has been working on pruning with Rosa Kruger, suckering a bit later in order to obtain more time on the vine. As I mentioned a couple of reports ago, he parsed out some of his more esoteric limited cuvées, although the inquisitive side of his personality means he always pulls one or two surprises out of his pocket. This time, it is a couple of sherries he’s dabbled with behind the scenes. Readers will find these in the report under The Saldanha Wine & Spirit Co.

As I have mentioned in recent articles, Badenhorst now has what I feel is a more consistent range of wines compared to ten years ago. He has an inquisitive mind that could occasionally lead to cuvées that did not quite work, but hey, wine needs people to take risks, experiment and try new things. At least in Secateurs, he has a very successful and instantly recognizable entry-level brand. That’s not to say that his wines have lost their edge, which is what many find attractive about them, including myself. There’s always a scintilla of funkiness. Readers should keep their eyes peeled for an impressive debut in the form of his 2023 Grensloos Chenin Blanc.
2024 Chenin Blanc Secateurs
Color: White

Score: 89.0

Drinking window: 2024 - 2029

Tasting notes: The 2024 Chenin Blanc Secateurs is 80% from the estate and 20% from purchased fruit. It has a pretty, slightly resinous, nutty bouquet that unfurls in the glass. The palate is fresh and crisp, just a little nuttiness percolating through on the finish, with the small lot of skin-fermented juice imparting just a bit of je ne sais quoi.

Producer Commentary:
Adi Badenhorst was out in the vineyard on the Kalmoesfontein farm, planting new vines with his team on an overcast day in Swartland. (Readers will see a video on Vinous.) We took a few minutes to tour the expanded vineyard following his acquisition of some 200 hectares. Apart from supplying fruit for his own estate, this has become a source for some of the Cape’s best winemakers seeking top-quality fruit. Badenhorst told me that he has been working on pruning with Rosa Kruger, suckering a bit later in order to obtain more time on the vine. As I mentioned a couple of reports ago, he parsed out some of his more esoteric limited cuvées, although the inquisitive side of his personality means he always pulls one or two surprises out of his pocket. This time, it is a couple of sherries he’s dabbled with behind the scenes. Readers will find these in the report under The Saldanha Wine & Spirit Co.

As I have mentioned in recent articles, Badenhorst now has what I feel is a more consistent range of wines compared to ten years ago. He has an inquisitive mind that could occasionally lead to cuvées that did not quite work, but hey, wine needs people to take risks, experiment and try new things. At least in Secateurs, he has a very successful and instantly recognizable entry-level brand. That’s not to say that his wines have lost their edge, which is what many find attractive about them, including myself. There’s always a scintilla of funkiness. Readers should keep their eyes peeled for an impressive debut in the form of his 2023 Grensloos Chenin Blanc.
2022 Ringmuur
Color: Red

Score: 91.0

Drinking window: 2024 - 2032

Tasting notes: The 2022 Ringmuur, 100% Cinsault, underwent a little carbonic fermentation and aged in a single 600-liter vat. The rather closed bouquet takes time to open, a little tertiary in style, a touch of wild fennel emerging with time. The medium-bodied palate has a liberal sprinkling of black pepper on the entry, lovely balance and a gentle build with a touch of menthol towards the finish. Very fine.

Producer Commentary:
There’s always a simmering sense of controlled chaos whenever I visit Adi Badenhorst at his Swartland winery. That’s not meant pejoratively, but I feel he thrives in such an environment, a sort of “anything goes” feel that has served him so well over the years. There are always people milling about the place, which I sometimes think looks like a bric-a-brac shop that has accumulated all sorts of odds and ends over many years. It disguises the fact that Badenhorst has plenty of business acumen, for example, establishing his highly successful range of spirits, his ubiquitous entry-level Secateurs labels and his successful acquisition of the neighboring farm together with Eben Sadie. Perhaps this ethos resulted in a selection that seemed to change with every vintage, many with Dutch-inspired cuvées that are not the easiest to pronounce. But in this visit, following my tasting, Badenhorst told me he plans to simplify his range and blend the single vineyards together. I think this is a positive move and will allow him to focus on a limited number of labels instead of spinning many plates. Tasting through his 2022s, there’s plenty here to like, especially his Kalmoesfontein Red Blend made predominantly from whole bunch Syrah. Maybe we’ll see more of Badenhorst perfecting these more conservative blends rather than his more outré labels…but he might well have changed his mind since I saw him.
2022 Red Blend Kalmoesfontein
Color: Red

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 2025 - 2045

Tasting notes: The 2021 Red Blend Kalmoesfontein is mostly a whole bunch Syrah with Rhône varieties, plus a little Touriga and Tina Barocca and a bit of Cabernet Sauvignon this year, with 3 to 4 months on the skins. It has a lovely, pure, focused bouquet with cranberry and raspberry fruit, with the small amount of barrels lending a little more cohesion. The medium-bodied palate has firm tannins, good grip and more structure than recent vintages but with elegance and focus. White pepper and a touch of garrigues furnish the finish. Lovely.

Producer Commentary:
There’s always a simmering sense of controlled chaos whenever I visit Adi Badenhorst at his Swartland winery. That’s not meant pejoratively, but I feel he thrives in such an environment, a sort of “anything goes” feel that has served him so well over the years. There are always people milling about the place, which I sometimes think looks like a bric-a-brac shop that has accumulated all sorts of odds and ends over many years. It disguises the fact that Badenhorst has plenty of business acumen, for example, establishing his highly successful range of spirits, his ubiquitous entry-level Secateurs labels and his successful acquisition of the neighboring farm together with Eben Sadie. Perhaps this ethos resulted in a selection that seemed to change with every vintage, many with Dutch-inspired cuvées that are not the easiest to pronounce. But in this visit, following my tasting, Badenhorst told me he plans to simplify his range and blend the single vineyards together. I think this is a positive move and will allow him to focus on a limited number of labels instead of spinning many plates. Tasting through his 2022s, there’s plenty here to like, especially his Kalmoesfontein Red Blend made predominantly from whole bunch Syrah. Maybe we’ll see more of Badenhorst perfecting these more conservative blends rather than his more outré labels…but he might well have changed his mind since I saw him.
2021 White Blend Kalmoesfontein
Color: White

Score: 91.0

Drinking window: 2024 - 2033

Tasting notes: The 2021 White Blend Kalmoesfontein, a field blend of 10-12 different varieties, has beeswax and dried apricot. It is discrete at first but blossoms with aeration. The palate is taut, fresh and very saline with a textural, stem ginger-infused second half that is actually reminiscent of Sadie's Chenin. It just misses a bit of length, but there are bundles of tension. 

Producer Commentary:
There’s always a simmering sense of controlled chaos whenever I visit Adi Badenhorst at his Swartland winery. That’s not meant pejoratively, but I feel he thrives in such an environment, a sort of “anything goes” feel that has served him so well over the years. There are always people milling about the place, which I sometimes think looks like a bric-a-brac shop that has accumulated all sorts of odds and ends over many years. It disguises the fact that Badenhorst has plenty of business acumen, for example, establishing his highly successful range of spirits, his ubiquitous entry-level Secateurs labels and his successful acquisition of the neighboring farm together with Eben Sadie. Perhaps this ethos resulted in a selection that seemed to change with every vintage, many with Dutch-inspired cuvées that are not the easiest to pronounce. But in this visit, following my tasting, Badenhorst told me he plans to simplify his range and blend the single vineyards together. I think this is a positive move and will allow him to focus on a limited number of labels instead of spinning many plates. Tasting through his 2022s, there’s plenty here to like, especially his Kalmoesfontein Red Blend made predominantly from whole bunch Syrah. Maybe we’ll see more of Badenhorst perfecting these more conservative blends rather than his more outré labels…but he might well have changed his mind since I saw him.
2022 Secateurs Riviera
Color: White

Score: 90.0

Drinking window: 2024 - 2032

Tasting notes: The 2022 Secateurs Riviera is a SO2-free skin contact blend of several grape varieties built from 18 different components. There’s marmalade, orange rind and a touch of turpentine on the nose, with a touch of menthol emerging in time. The taut, fresh palate is well balanced with a viscous entry, fine acidity and a hint of lemongrass. I like that there is no funkiness; it is clean and focused. Clever reduction here - this is very fine. 

Producer Commentary:
There’s always a simmering sense of controlled chaos whenever I visit Adi Badenhorst at his Swartland winery. That’s not meant pejoratively, but I feel he thrives in such an environment, a sort of “anything goes” feel that has served him so well over the years. There are always people milling about the place, which I sometimes think looks like a bric-a-brac shop that has accumulated all sorts of odds and ends over many years. It disguises the fact that Badenhorst has plenty of business acumen, for example, establishing his highly successful range of spirits, his ubiquitous entry-level Secateurs labels and his successful acquisition of the neighboring farm together with Eben Sadie. Perhaps this ethos resulted in a selection that seemed to change with every vintage, many with Dutch-inspired cuvées that are not the easiest to pronounce. But in this visit, following my tasting, Badenhorst told me he plans to simplify his range and blend the single vineyards together. I think this is a positive move and will allow him to focus on a limited number of labels instead of spinning many plates. Tasting through his 2022s, there’s plenty here to like, especially his Kalmoesfontein Red Blend made predominantly from whole bunch Syrah. Maybe we’ll see more of Badenhorst perfecting these more conservative blends rather than his more outré labels…but he might well have changed his mind since I saw him.
2022 Palomino Sout Vandie Aarde
Color: White

Score: 90.0

Drinking window: 2024 - 2030

Tasting notes: The 2022 Palomino Sout Vandie Aarde is aged in a single 1200-liter foudre a couple of kilometers from the ocean. The saline nose has a hint of marmalade and melted wax. The palate is well-balanced with a waxy texture, touches of hazelnut and litchee, and stem ginger driving along the finish. Lovely balance and length here.

Producer Commentary:
There’s always a simmering sense of controlled chaos whenever I visit Adi Badenhorst at his Swartland winery. That’s not meant pejoratively, but I feel he thrives in such an environment, a sort of “anything goes” feel that has served him so well over the years. There are always people milling about the place, which I sometimes think looks like a bric-a-brac shop that has accumulated all sorts of odds and ends over many years. It disguises the fact that Badenhorst has plenty of business acumen, for example, establishing his highly successful range of spirits, his ubiquitous entry-level Secateurs labels and his successful acquisition of the neighboring farm together with Eben Sadie. Perhaps this ethos resulted in a selection that seemed to change with every vintage, many with Dutch-inspired cuvées that are not the easiest to pronounce. But in this visit, following my tasting, Badenhorst told me he plans to simplify his range and blend the single vineyards together. I think this is a positive move and will allow him to focus on a limited number of labels instead of spinning many plates. Tasting through his 2022s, there’s plenty here to like, especially his Kalmoesfontein Red Blend made predominantly from whole bunch Syrah. Maybe we’ll see more of Badenhorst perfecting these more conservative blends rather than his more outré labels…but he might well have changed his mind since I saw him.
2022 Golden Slope Steen
Color: White

Score: 91.0

Drinking window: 2024 - 2033

Tasting notes: The 2022 Golden Slope Steen, aged in concrete, has a more backward nose of melted wax with hints of dried fig and orange pith. The palate is vibrant and citric on the entry, with a twist of sour lemon. It is tensile, linear and a little reductive in style compared to other cuvées with a persistent, waxy-textured finish. Very fine. 

Producer Commentary:
There’s always a simmering sense of controlled chaos whenever I visit Adi Badenhorst at his Swartland winery. That’s not meant pejoratively, but I feel he thrives in such an environment, a sort of “anything goes” feel that has served him so well over the years. There are always people milling about the place, which I sometimes think looks like a bric-a-brac shop that has accumulated all sorts of odds and ends over many years. It disguises the fact that Badenhorst has plenty of business acumen, for example, establishing his highly successful range of spirits, his ubiquitous entry-level Secateurs labels and his successful acquisition of the neighboring farm together with Eben Sadie. Perhaps this ethos resulted in a selection that seemed to change with every vintage, many with Dutch-inspired cuvées that are not the easiest to pronounce. But in this visit, following my tasting, Badenhorst told me he plans to simplify his range and blend the single vineyards together. I think this is a positive move and will allow him to focus on a limited number of labels instead of spinning many plates. Tasting through his 2022s, there’s plenty here to like, especially his Kalmoesfontein Red Blend made predominantly from whole bunch Syrah. Maybe we’ll see more of Badenhorst perfecting these more conservative blends rather than his more outré labels…but he might well have changed his mind since I saw him.
2022 Chenin Blanc Secateurs
Color: White

Score: 88.0

Drinking window: 2024 - 2029

Tasting notes: The 2022 Chenin Blanc Secateurs, which Badenhorst described as a "go-to Chenin," is built around a little more skin-fermented fruit. It has a simple but very pure nose with dried honey, honeysuckle and a touch of passion fruit. Quite fruit forward. The well-balanced palate has a lovely lilting personality, with hints of stem ginger infusing the citrus fruit with a brisk, spicy finish.

Producer Commentary:
There’s always a simmering sense of controlled chaos whenever I visit Adi Badenhorst at his Swartland winery. That’s not meant pejoratively, but I feel he thrives in such an environment, a sort of “anything goes” feel that has served him so well over the years. There are always people milling about the place, which I sometimes think looks like a bric-a-brac shop that has accumulated all sorts of odds and ends over many years. It disguises the fact that Badenhorst has plenty of business acumen, for example, establishing his highly successful range of spirits, his ubiquitous entry-level Secateurs labels and his successful acquisition of the neighboring farm together with Eben Sadie. Perhaps this ethos resulted in a selection that seemed to change with every vintage, many with Dutch-inspired cuvées that are not the easiest to pronounce. But in this visit, following my tasting, Badenhorst told me he plans to simplify his range and blend the single vineyards together. I think this is a positive move and will allow him to focus on a limited number of labels instead of spinning many plates. Tasting through his 2022s, there’s plenty here to like, especially his Kalmoesfontein Red Blend made predominantly from whole bunch Syrah. Maybe we’ll see more of Badenhorst perfecting these more conservative blends rather than his more outré labels…but he might well have changed his mind since I saw him.
2022 Shiraz Grenache Cinsault Secateurs
Color: Red

Score: 91.0

Drinking window: 2024 - 2030

Tasting notes: The 2022 Shiraz Grenache Cinsault Secateurs comes from young vines. It was lightly macerated and aged in foudre and concrete tank. It has a bit of reduction on the nose, so it needs a few months in bottle. There’s plenty of brambly red fruit mixed with white pepper and clove. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, bright red fruit, cranberry and wild strawberry, well defined with a brisk and vibrant finish. One of the best releases in recent years.

Producer Commentary:
There’s always a simmering sense of controlled chaos whenever I visit Adi Badenhorst at his Swartland winery. That’s not meant pejoratively, but I feel he thrives in such an environment, a sort of “anything goes” feel that has served him so well over the years. There are always people milling about the place, which I sometimes think looks like a bric-a-brac shop that has accumulated all sorts of odds and ends over many years. It disguises the fact that Badenhorst has plenty of business acumen, for example, establishing his highly successful range of spirits, his ubiquitous entry-level Secateurs labels and his successful acquisition of the neighboring farm together with Eben Sadie. Perhaps this ethos resulted in a selection that seemed to change with every vintage, many with Dutch-inspired cuvées that are not the easiest to pronounce. But in this visit, following my tasting, Badenhorst told me he plans to simplify his range and blend the single vineyards together. I think this is a positive move and will allow him to focus on a limited number of labels instead of spinning many plates. Tasting through his 2022s, there’s plenty here to like, especially his Kalmoesfontein Red Blend made predominantly from whole bunch Syrah. Maybe we’ll see more of Badenhorst perfecting these more conservative blends rather than his more outré labels…but he might well have changed his mind since I saw him.
2023 Rosé Secateurs Swartland
Color: Red

Score: 87.0

Drinking window: 2023 - 2026

Tasting notes: The 2023 Rosé Secateurs Swartland is made from Mourvèdre cultivated in Piekenhierskloof. It has a generous bouquet, quite concentrated for a Rosé, with crushed strawberry, rose water and a hint of apricot. The palate is well-balanced with a fine line of acidity. It is slightly viscous in texture with tangerine towards the finish.

Producer Commentary:
There’s always a simmering sense of controlled chaos whenever I visit Adi Badenhorst at his Swartland winery. That’s not meant pejoratively, but I feel he thrives in such an environment, a sort of “anything goes” feel that has served him so well over the years. There are always people milling about the place, which I sometimes think looks like a bric-a-brac shop that has accumulated all sorts of odds and ends over many years. It disguises the fact that Badenhorst has plenty of business acumen, for example, establishing his highly successful range of spirits, his ubiquitous entry-level Secateurs labels and his successful acquisition of the neighboring farm together with Eben Sadie. Perhaps this ethos resulted in a selection that seemed to change with every vintage, many with Dutch-inspired cuvées that are not the easiest to pronounce. But in this visit, following my tasting, Badenhorst told me he plans to simplify his range and blend the single vineyards together. I think this is a positive move and will allow him to focus on a limited number of labels instead of spinning many plates. Tasting through his 2022s, there’s plenty here to like, especially his Kalmoesfontein Red Blend made predominantly from whole bunch Syrah. Maybe we’ll see more of Badenhorst perfecting these more conservative blends rather than his more outré labels…but he might well have changed his mind since I saw him.
2022 Klipkop Steen
Color: White

Score: 91.0

Drinking window: 2024 - 2032

Tasting notes: The 2022 Klipkop Steen is matured in a concrete vat. It opens nicely in the glass with a pretty nose hazelnut, touches of peach and crushed stone. The taut, fresh palate has balance and a slightly honeyed texture, the acidity keeping the finish firm and focused. Moderate length. This very assured Chenin Blanc from Badenhorst will be difficult to resist young.

Producer Commentary:
There’s always a simmering sense of controlled chaos whenever I visit Adi Badenhorst at his Swartland winery. That’s not meant pejoratively, but I feel he thrives in such an environment, a sort of “anything goes” feel that has served him so well over the years. There are always people milling about the place, which I sometimes think looks like a bric-a-brac shop that has accumulated all sorts of odds and ends over many years. It disguises the fact that Badenhorst has plenty of business acumen, for example, establishing his highly successful range of spirits, his ubiquitous entry-level Secateurs labels and his successful acquisition of the neighboring farm together with Eben Sadie. Perhaps this ethos resulted in a selection that seemed to change with every vintage, many with Dutch-inspired cuvées that are not the easiest to pronounce. But in this visit, following my tasting, Badenhorst told me he plans to simplify his range and blend the single vineyards together. I think this is a positive move and will allow him to focus on a limited number of labels instead of spinning many plates. Tasting through his 2022s, there’s plenty here to like, especially his Kalmoesfontein Red Blend made predominantly from whole bunch Syrah. Maybe we’ll see more of Badenhorst perfecting these more conservative blends rather than his more outré labels…but he might well have changed his mind since I saw him.
2022 Kelder Steen
Color: White

Score: 89.0

Drinking window: 2024 - 2032

Tasting notes: The 2022 Kelder Steen comes from the vineyard adjacent to the winery that tends to produce larger bunches. It has a lovely, slightly more exotic bouquet of Clementine, apricot, marmalade, and a touch of underlying beeswax. The palate is medium-bodied with a waxy texture and fine acidity. A more fruit-forward Chenin but with admirable tension on the finish.

Producer Commentary:
There’s always a simmering sense of controlled chaos whenever I visit Adi Badenhorst at his Swartland winery. That’s not meant pejoratively, but I feel he thrives in such an environment, a sort of “anything goes” feel that has served him so well over the years. There are always people milling about the place, which I sometimes think looks like a bric-a-brac shop that has accumulated all sorts of odds and ends over many years. It disguises the fact that Badenhorst has plenty of business acumen, for example, establishing his highly successful range of spirits, his ubiquitous entry-level Secateurs labels and his successful acquisition of the neighboring farm together with Eben Sadie. Perhaps this ethos resulted in a selection that seemed to change with every vintage, many with Dutch-inspired cuvées that are not the easiest to pronounce. But in this visit, following my tasting, Badenhorst told me he plans to simplify his range and blend the single vineyards together. I think this is a positive move and will allow him to focus on a limited number of labels instead of spinning many plates. Tasting through his 2022s, there’s plenty here to like, especially his Kalmoesfontein Red Blend made predominantly from whole bunch Syrah. Maybe we’ll see more of Badenhorst perfecting these more conservative blends rather than his more outré labels…but he might well have changed his mind since I saw him.
2021 Palomino Sout Van Die Aarde
Color: White

Score: 89.0

Drinking window: 2022 - 2030

Tasting notes: The 2021 Palomino Sout Van die Aarde is whole bunch pressed and aged in oak foudres. It has a clean and precise bouquet, quite understated and not as oxidative as other Palominos. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, just a little honeyed in texture with a delicate, slightly peachy on the finish. 

Producer Commentary:
The major change at this Swartland estate is Badenhort’s joint-acquisition of the neighbouring 200-hectare conjoining Rotsvas Farm, together with Eben Sadie. This makes Badenhorst a very serious player in both supplying his own labels and selling high-quality fruit to fellow Swartland winemakers. In terms of the winemaking, Badenhorst told me that for the Red Blend, he has moved away from foudres to maturing this flagship label in 80% concrete tanks and 20% in 500- and 600-liter wooden vats, with up to 10% new oak. My impression speaking to Badenhorst is that he has curtailed some of the “wilder” and more experimental elements of his winemaking that could lend his portfolio inconsistency, and crucially, he has done so without losing the essence of what gives the wines so much personality. For example, he emphasises that he has no hesitation using a light filtration on his wines to make them stable, something I think a young Badenhorst might not have entertained. His latest releases excel with his Grenache blends such as the Raaigras, whilst his concrete-matured Golden Slopes is a killer, characterful Chenin Blanc. The heart of the range is the White and Red Blends, sourced from various parcels, the latter fantastic value. The Secateurs range represents some of the finest wines for your buck on supermarket shelves. As I said, there’s a couple of limited releases that throw caution to the wind, and I could not quite get my head around what felt like a slightly disjointed Ramnasgras Cinsault. But if you want to see why Swartland continues to be the go-to region in South Africa, this might well be the best place to start.
2020 Red Blend
Color: Red

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 2023 - 2038

Tasting notes: The 2020 AA Badenhorst Red Blend (which now prints the farm name, Kalmoesfontein, on the label) contains eight vineyards all picked together over three days. This is very attractive with blackberry, raspberry, a lovely herbal element and dried violets on the nose. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, very well balanced, clean and pure with a dash of white pepper on the persistent finish. Superb.

Producer Commentary:
The major change at this Swartland estate is Badenhort’s joint-acquisition of the neighbouring 200-hectare conjoining Rotsvas Farm, together with Eben Sadie. This makes Badenhorst a very serious player in both supplying his own labels and selling high-quality fruit to fellow Swartland winemakers. In terms of the winemaking, Badenhorst told me that for the Red Blend, he has moved away from foudres to maturing this flagship label in 80% concrete tanks and 20% in 500- and 600-liter wooden vats, with up to 10% new oak. My impression speaking to Badenhorst is that he has curtailed some of the “wilder” and more experimental elements of his winemaking that could lend his portfolio inconsistency, and crucially, he has done so without losing the essence of what gives the wines so much personality. For example, he emphasises that he has no hesitation using a light filtration on his wines to make them stable, something I think a young Badenhorst might not have entertained. His latest releases excel with his Grenache blends such as the Raaigras, whilst his concrete-matured Golden Slopes is a killer, characterful Chenin Blanc. The heart of the range is the White and Red Blends, sourced from various parcels, the latter fantastic value. The Secateurs range represents some of the finest wines for your buck on supermarket shelves. As I said, there’s a couple of limited releases that throw caution to the wind, and I could not quite get my head around what felt like a slightly disjointed Ramnasgras Cinsault. But if you want to see why Swartland continues to be the go-to region in South Africa, this might well be the best place to start.
2021 Grenache Raaigras
Color: Red

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 2022 - 2034

Tasting notes: The 2021 Grenache Raaigras comes from vines planted in 1952, fully-destemmed and fermented in conical concrete vats. With dark cherries and raspberry coulis on the nose, this feels very cohesive with light slatey notes becoming more prominent with time. The palate is well balanced with a little chewiness on the entry, white pepper and touches for garrigues towards the persistent finish. Excellent.

Producer Commentary:
The major change at this Swartland estate is Badenhort’s joint-acquisition of the neighbouring 200-hectare conjoining Rotsvas Farm, together with Eben Sadie. This makes Badenhorst a very serious player in both supplying his own labels and selling high-quality fruit to fellow Swartland winemakers. In terms of the winemaking, Badenhorst told me that for the Red Blend, he has moved away from foudres to maturing this flagship label in 80% concrete tanks and 20% in 500- and 600-liter wooden vats, with up to 10% new oak. My impression speaking to Badenhorst is that he has curtailed some of the “wilder” and more experimental elements of his winemaking that could lend his portfolio inconsistency, and crucially, he has done so without losing the essence of what gives the wines so much personality. For example, he emphasises that he has no hesitation using a light filtration on his wines to make them stable, something I think a young Badenhorst might not have entertained. His latest releases excel with his Grenache blends such as the Raaigras, whilst his concrete-matured Golden Slopes is a killer, characterful Chenin Blanc. The heart of the range is the White and Red Blends, sourced from various parcels, the latter fantastic value. The Secateurs range represents some of the finest wines for your buck on supermarket shelves. As I said, there’s a couple of limited releases that throw caution to the wind, and I could not quite get my head around what felt like a slightly disjointed Ramnasgras Cinsault. But if you want to see why Swartland continues to be the go-to region in South Africa, this might well be the best place to start.
2021 Cinsault Ramnasgras
Color: Red

Score: 88.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: The 2021 Cinsault Ramnasgras is whole bunch fermented is old vats with daily pumpovers. It has a lifted nose, perhaps not quite as refined as some of Badenhorst's other cuvées. The palate is better with red cherry and raspberry, quite saline and peppery on the finish. I would like to see this with another 12 months in bottle. 

Producer Commentary:
The major change at this Swartland estate is Badenhort’s joint-acquisition of the neighbouring 200-hectare conjoining Rotsvas Farm, together with Eben Sadie. This makes Badenhorst a very serious player in both supplying his own labels and selling high-quality fruit to fellow Swartland winemakers. In terms of the winemaking, Badenhorst told me that for the Red Blend, he has moved away from foudres to maturing this flagship label in 80% concrete tanks and 20% in 500- and 600-liter wooden vats, with up to 10% new oak. My impression speaking to Badenhorst is that he has curtailed some of the “wilder” and more experimental elements of his winemaking that could lend his portfolio inconsistency, and crucially, he has done so without losing the essence of what gives the wines so much personality. For example, he emphasises that he has no hesitation using a light filtration on his wines to make them stable, something I think a young Badenhorst might not have entertained. His latest releases excel with his Grenache blends such as the Raaigras, whilst his concrete-matured Golden Slopes is a killer, characterful Chenin Blanc. The heart of the range is the White and Red Blends, sourced from various parcels, the latter fantastic value. The Secateurs range represents some of the finest wines for your buck on supermarket shelves. As I said, there’s a couple of limited releases that throw caution to the wind, and I could not quite get my head around what felt like a slightly disjointed Ramnasgras Cinsault. But if you want to see why Swartland continues to be the go-to region in South Africa, this might well be the best place to start.
2021 Red Secateurs
Color: Red

Score: 89.0

Drinking window: 2022 - 2027

Tasting notes: The 2021 Secateurs Red has a lovely nose with brambly red fruit, an attractive floral note emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with finely-chiselled tannins. Cohesive towards the sappy finish, this is the best Secateurs Red that I have tasted.

Producer Commentary:
The major change at this Swartland estate is Badenhort’s joint-acquisition of the neighbouring 200-hectare conjoining Rotsvas Farm, together with Eben Sadie. This makes Badenhorst a very serious player in both supplying his own labels and selling high-quality fruit to fellow Swartland winemakers. In terms of the winemaking, Badenhorst told me that for the Red Blend, he has moved away from foudres to maturing this flagship label in 80% concrete tanks and 20% in 500- and 600-liter wooden vats, with up to 10% new oak. My impression speaking to Badenhorst is that he has curtailed some of the “wilder” and more experimental elements of his winemaking that could lend his portfolio inconsistency, and crucially, he has done so without losing the essence of what gives the wines so much personality. For example, he emphasises that he has no hesitation using a light filtration on his wines to make them stable, something I think a young Badenhorst might not have entertained. His latest releases excel with his Grenache blends such as the Raaigras, whilst his concrete-matured Golden Slopes is a killer, characterful Chenin Blanc. The heart of the range is the White and Red Blends, sourced from various parcels, the latter fantastic value. The Secateurs range represents some of the finest wines for your buck on supermarket shelves. As I said, there’s a couple of limited releases that throw caution to the wind, and I could not quite get my head around what felt like a slightly disjointed Ramnasgras Cinsault. But if you want to see why Swartland continues to be the go-to region in South Africa, this might well be the best place to start.
2021 Cinsault Ringmuur
Color: Red

Score: 90.0

Drinking window: 2023 - 2040

Tasting notes: The 2021 Cinsault Ringmuur, which is whole bunch pressed and raised in concrete, has an attractive bouquet morello cherry, crushed strawberry and potent floral scents: lavender and iris. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, clean and pure with a sensual, very Rhône-like garrigues-tinged finish. Lovely.

Producer Commentary:
The major change at this Swartland estate is Badenhort’s joint-acquisition of the neighbouring 200-hectare conjoining Rotsvas Farm, together with Eben Sadie. This makes Badenhorst a very serious player in both supplying his own labels and selling high-quality fruit to fellow Swartland winemakers. In terms of the winemaking, Badenhorst told me that for the Red Blend, he has moved away from foudres to maturing this flagship label in 80% concrete tanks and 20% in 500- and 600-liter wooden vats, with up to 10% new oak. My impression speaking to Badenhorst is that he has curtailed some of the “wilder” and more experimental elements of his winemaking that could lend his portfolio inconsistency, and crucially, he has done so without losing the essence of what gives the wines so much personality. For example, he emphasises that he has no hesitation using a light filtration on his wines to make them stable, something I think a young Badenhorst might not have entertained. His latest releases excel with his Grenache blends such as the Raaigras, whilst his concrete-matured Golden Slopes is a killer, characterful Chenin Blanc. The heart of the range is the White and Red Blends, sourced from various parcels, the latter fantastic value. The Secateurs range represents some of the finest wines for your buck on supermarket shelves. As I said, there’s a couple of limited releases that throw caution to the wind, and I could not quite get my head around what felt like a slightly disjointed Ramnasgras Cinsault. But if you want to see why Swartland continues to be the go-to region in South Africa, this might well be the best place to start.
2022 Rosé Secateurs
Color: Rosé

Score: 87.0

Drinking window: 2022 - 2025

Tasting notes: The 2022 Rosé Secateurs is 100% young vine Mourvedre. Clean and fresh with light cherry and lime cordial notes on the nose. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity. Nice tangy touch of marmalade on the finish. Lively and vibrant. Fine. 

Producer Commentary:
The major change at this Swartland estate is Badenhort’s joint-acquisition of the neighbouring 200-hectare conjoining Rotsvas Farm, together with Eben Sadie. This makes Badenhorst a very serious player in both supplying his own labels and selling high-quality fruit to fellow Swartland winemakers. In terms of the winemaking, Badenhorst told me that for the Red Blend, he has moved away from foudres to maturing this flagship label in 80% concrete tanks and 20% in 500- and 600-liter wooden vats, with up to 10% new oak. My impression speaking to Badenhorst is that he has curtailed some of the “wilder” and more experimental elements of his winemaking that could lend his portfolio inconsistency, and crucially, he has done so without losing the essence of what gives the wines so much personality. For example, he emphasises that he has no hesitation using a light filtration on his wines to make them stable, something I think a young Badenhorst might not have entertained. His latest releases excel with his Grenache blends such as the Raaigras, whilst his concrete-matured Golden Slopes is a killer, characterful Chenin Blanc. The heart of the range is the White and Red Blends, sourced from various parcels, the latter fantastic value. The Secateurs range represents some of the finest wines for your buck on supermarket shelves. As I said, there’s a couple of limited releases that throw caution to the wind, and I could not quite get my head around what felt like a slightly disjointed Ramnasgras Cinsault. But if you want to see why Swartland continues to be the go-to region in South Africa, this might well be the best place to start.
2020 White Blend
Color: White

Score: 91.0

Drinking window: 2022 - 2032

Tasting notes: The 2020 AA Badenhorst White Blend is pressed and the varieties co-fermented in used foudres. It has a refined bouquet with scents of white peach, nectarine and beeswax, very focused and pure. The palate is slightly viscous on the entry, clean and precise with a touch of sour lemon on the finish. Just a lovely white blend from Swartland.

Producer Commentary:
The major change at this Swartland estate is Badenhort’s joint-acquisition of the neighbouring 200-hectare conjoining Rotsvas Farm, together with Eben Sadie. This makes Badenhorst a very serious player in both supplying his own labels and selling high-quality fruit to fellow Swartland winemakers. In terms of the winemaking, Badenhorst told me that for the Red Blend, he has moved away from foudres to maturing this flagship label in 80% concrete tanks and 20% in 500- and 600-liter wooden vats, with up to 10% new oak. My impression speaking to Badenhorst is that he has curtailed some of the “wilder” and more experimental elements of his winemaking that could lend his portfolio inconsistency, and crucially, he has done so without losing the essence of what gives the wines so much personality. For example, he emphasises that he has no hesitation using a light filtration on his wines to make them stable, something I think a young Badenhorst might not have entertained. His latest releases excel with his Grenache blends such as the Raaigras, whilst his concrete-matured Golden Slopes is a killer, characterful Chenin Blanc. The heart of the range is the White and Red Blends, sourced from various parcels, the latter fantastic value. The Secateurs range represents some of the finest wines for your buck on supermarket shelves. As I said, there’s a couple of limited releases that throw caution to the wind, and I could not quite get my head around what felt like a slightly disjointed Ramnasgras Cinsault. But if you want to see why Swartland continues to be the go-to region in South Africa, this might well be the best place to start.
2021 The Golden Slopes
Color: White

Score: 92.0

Drinking window: 2023 - 2038

Tasting notes: For the first time, the 2021 The Golden Slopes is matured only in concrete. It has a precise, quite stony bouquet with a light sea spray element and a touch of yellow fruit. The palate is well balanced with a vibrant entry, peach skin and a touch of iodine, fairly feisty on the finish. This is well worth seeking out. Very fine.

Producer Commentary:
The major change at this Swartland estate is Badenhort’s joint-acquisition of the neighbouring 200-hectare conjoining Rotsvas Farm, together with Eben Sadie. This makes Badenhorst a very serious player in both supplying his own labels and selling high-quality fruit to fellow Swartland winemakers. In terms of the winemaking, Badenhorst told me that for the Red Blend, he has moved away from foudres to maturing this flagship label in 80% concrete tanks and 20% in 500- and 600-liter wooden vats, with up to 10% new oak. My impression speaking to Badenhorst is that he has curtailed some of the “wilder” and more experimental elements of his winemaking that could lend his portfolio inconsistency, and crucially, he has done so without losing the essence of what gives the wines so much personality. For example, he emphasises that he has no hesitation using a light filtration on his wines to make them stable, something I think a young Badenhorst might not have entertained. His latest releases excel with his Grenache blends such as the Raaigras, whilst his concrete-matured Golden Slopes is a killer, characterful Chenin Blanc. The heart of the range is the White and Red Blends, sourced from various parcels, the latter fantastic value. The Secateurs range represents some of the finest wines for your buck on supermarket shelves. As I said, there’s a couple of limited releases that throw caution to the wind, and I could not quite get my head around what felt like a slightly disjointed Ramnasgras Cinsault. But if you want to see why Swartland continues to be the go-to region in South Africa, this might well be the best place to start.
2021 Chenin Blanc Secateurs
Color: White

Score: 88.0

Drinking window: 2022 - 2026

Tasting notes: The 2021 Chenin Blanc Secateurs, which contains a little purchased fruit with partial carbonic, 25% cask and foudre-aged. Badenhorst told me this was slightly acidified. He also mentioned that he began filtering this label a couple of years ago. It has a light bouquet with hints of yellow fruit and a touch of pineapple. The palate is well balanced with a lovely waxy texture, fine acidity with a crisp finish. This cuvée is bottled in batches - this sample bottled at the end of 2021. 

Producer Commentary:
The major change at this Swartland estate is Badenhort’s joint-acquisition of the neighbouring 200-hectare conjoining Rotsvas Farm, together with Eben Sadie. This makes Badenhorst a very serious player in both supplying his own labels and selling high-quality fruit to fellow Swartland winemakers. In terms of the winemaking, Badenhorst told me that for the Red Blend, he has moved away from foudres to maturing this flagship label in 80% concrete tanks and 20% in 500- and 600-liter wooden vats, with up to 10% new oak. My impression speaking to Badenhorst is that he has curtailed some of the “wilder” and more experimental elements of his winemaking that could lend his portfolio inconsistency, and crucially, he has done so without losing the essence of what gives the wines so much personality. For example, he emphasises that he has no hesitation using a light filtration on his wines to make them stable, something I think a young Badenhorst might not have entertained. His latest releases excel with his Grenache blends such as the Raaigras, whilst his concrete-matured Golden Slopes is a killer, characterful Chenin Blanc. The heart of the range is the White and Red Blends, sourced from various parcels, the latter fantastic value. The Secateurs range represents some of the finest wines for your buck on supermarket shelves. As I said, there’s a couple of limited releases that throw caution to the wind, and I could not quite get my head around what felt like a slightly disjointed Ramnasgras Cinsault. But if you want to see why Swartland continues to be the go-to region in South Africa, this might well be the best place to start.
2021 Chenin Blanc Klipklop
Color: White

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 2023 - 2036

Tasting notes: The 2021 Chenin Blanc Klipklop comes from vines planted in 1978 and is part of the Old Vine Series. It has a perfumed bouquet, quite pithy at first, honeysuckle and jasmine, hints of lemon sherbet. The palate is well balanced with a saline entry, fine acidity and weight, just a slight oxidative note imparting a welcome nuttiness on the finish. Feisty and very well crafted.

Producer Commentary:
The major change at this Swartland estate is Badenhort’s joint-acquisition of the neighbouring 200-hectare conjoining Rotsvas Farm, together with Eben Sadie. This makes Badenhorst a very serious player in both supplying his own labels and selling high-quality fruit to fellow Swartland winemakers. In terms of the winemaking, Badenhorst told me that for the Red Blend, he has moved away from foudres to maturing this flagship label in 80% concrete tanks and 20% in 500- and 600-liter wooden vats, with up to 10% new oak. My impression speaking to Badenhorst is that he has curtailed some of the “wilder” and more experimental elements of his winemaking that could lend his portfolio inconsistency, and crucially, he has done so without losing the essence of what gives the wines so much personality. For example, he emphasises that he has no hesitation using a light filtration on his wines to make them stable, something I think a young Badenhorst might not have entertained. His latest releases excel with his Grenache blends such as the Raaigras, whilst his concrete-matured Golden Slopes is a killer, characterful Chenin Blanc. The heart of the range is the White and Red Blends, sourced from various parcels, the latter fantastic value. The Secateurs range represents some of the finest wines for your buck on supermarket shelves. As I said, there’s a couple of limited releases that throw caution to the wind, and I could not quite get my head around what felt like a slightly disjointed Ramnasgras Cinsault. But if you want to see why Swartland continues to be the go-to region in South Africa, this might well be the best place to start.
2012 Cwg White Grenache Vuilgoed 3 Voor Paardeberg
Color: White

Score: 90.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Pale bright yellow. Lively aromas of citrus peel, licorice and menthol are complicated by a subtle peppery spice quality. Rich, supple and dry; nicely ripe and satisfying but today the wine's menthol and pepper elements overshadow the fruit. Finishes with very good breadth and length. Winemaker: Adi Badenhorst.

Producer Commentary:
2012 The Curator White Wine Swartland
Color: White

Score: 88.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: (54% chenin blanc, 30% chardonnay and 15% semillon; yes, according to the back label the wine is missing its last percent): Pale medium yellow. Aromas of lemon candy, stone fruits and flowers lifted by exotic notes of honey, licorice and resin. Fruity and silky, offering honeyed yellow fruit flavors and a fatness from the chardonnay. Finishes with a bit of warmth.

Producer Commentary:
2014 The Curator Red Blend
Color: Red

Score: 89.0

Drinking window: 2015 - 2019

Tasting notes: (14% alcohol; 85% Shiraz, the rest Mourvedre and Cinsault plus a pinch of Viognier): In a distinctly ripe style but with lovely vinosity and a fresh minty quality to the aroma of red cherry liqueur. Then juicy and surprisingly dry on the palate, offering good intensity and modest fat to its red berry and spice flavors. Sound acidity buffers the 14% alcohol.

Producer Commentary:
Adi Badenhorst, who gained a reputation as one of South Africa's most talented winemakers during his years at Rustenberg, began his own label with wines from purchased fruit in 2006, then bought his estate near Malmesbury in Swartland in 2007. He currently farms 30 hectares on his 60-hectare farm and plans to plant another 5 in 2016 to such varieties as Palomino, Petit Manseng and Trousseau.

This is a distinctly low-tech operation that produces wines long on personality, even if they are "not technically spot on," as Badenhorst put it. He noted that he and his colleagues in Swartland pick about 15 days earlier than in Stellenbosch, and even though winemakers always talk about hang time, there's actually a bit less of that here. "I pick on psychological ripeness, and on freshness," he told me, adding that he never picks on Mondays or Fridays. "We have no choice here but to pick early and to work with sulfur."

Badenhorst does not own a destemmer or check his wines for the completion of malolactic fermentation. He co-ferments his blends in open-top fermenters and ages them in large foudres. Incidentally, Badenhorst makes a wonderfully complex sweet vermouth he calls Caperitif, using 45 different botanical ingredients, most of them local. Lot 3 of this elixir will soon reach the U.S. market.
2012 Family Red Blend
Color: Red

Score: 92.0

Drinking window: 2018 - 2025

Tasting notes: (13.5% alcohol; mostly Shiraz, co-fermented with Cinsault, Grenache and Tinta Barroca; from the best granite vineyards in Paardeberg; Badenhorst doesn't press until July or August): Bright red-ruby. Deep aromas of cherry, redcurrant, smoked meat and leather, lifted by a pungent cranberry note. Rich and fine-grained, with harmonious acidity and powerful minerality giving a light touch and terrific precision to the middle palate. In a very savory style and quite reserved today. Finishes hugely tannic, broad, classically dry and long, with enticing red fruit notes and terrific mineral lift. A very subtle, complex blend in a restrained style.

Producer Commentary:
Adi Badenhorst, who gained a reputation as one of South Africa's most talented winemakers during his years at Rustenberg, began his own label with wines from purchased fruit in 2006, then bought his estate near Malmesbury in Swartland in 2007. He currently farms 30 hectares on his 60-hectare farm and plans to plant another 5 in 2016 to such varieties as Palomino, Petit Manseng and Trousseau.

This is a distinctly low-tech operation that produces wines long on personality, even if they are "not technically spot on," as Badenhorst put it. He noted that he and his colleagues in Swartland pick about 15 days earlier than in Stellenbosch, and even though winemakers always talk about hang time, there's actually a bit less of that here. "I pick on psychological ripeness, and on freshness," he told me, adding that he never picks on Mondays or Fridays. "We have no choice here but to pick early and to work with sulfur."

Badenhorst does not own a destemmer or check his wines for the completion of malolactic fermentation. He co-ferments his blends in open-top fermenters and ages them in large foudres. Incidentally, Badenhorst makes a wonderfully complex sweet vermouth he calls Caperitif, using 45 different botanical ingredients, most of them local. Lot 3 of this elixir will soon reach the U.S. market.
2014 Secateurs Chenin Blanc
Color: White

Score: 91.0

Drinking window: 2015 - 2019

Tasting notes: (13.5% alcohol; a blend from 28 different vineyards, mostly planted in the '60s and early '70s; made in concrete tanks, 15% aged in old casks; left on the lees but not stirred): Bright yellow. Yellow fruits, minerals and honeycomb on the nose. Very fine-grained but still quite tight, showing excellent cut and density to its flavors of peach and honey. Not a particularly fruity style but boasts a suave balance of thickness and freshness. Yields in 2014 ranged from three to six tons per hectare, according to Adie Badenhorst, who noted that this wine will display more of a white fruit character and a waxy quality with a few years of aging.

Producer Commentary:
Adi Badenhorst, who gained a reputation as one of South Africa's most talented winemakers during his years at Rustenberg, began his own label with wines from purchased fruit in 2006, then bought his estate near Malmesbury in Swartland in 2007. He currently farms 30 hectares on his 60-hectare farm and plans to plant another 5 in 2016 to such varieties as Palomino, Petit Manseng and Trousseau.

This is a distinctly low-tech operation that produces wines long on personality, even if they are "not technically spot on," as Badenhorst put it. He noted that he and his colleagues in Swartland pick about 15 days earlier than in Stellenbosch, and even though winemakers always talk about hang time, there's actually a bit less of that here. "I pick on psychological ripeness, and on freshness," he told me, adding that he never picks on Mondays or Fridays. "We have no choice here but to pick early and to work with sulfur."

Badenhorst does not own a destemmer or check his wines for the completion of malolactic fermentation. He co-ferments his blends in open-top fermenters and ages them in large foudres. Incidentally, Badenhorst makes a wonderfully complex sweet vermouth he calls Caperitif, using 45 different botanical ingredients, most of them local. Lot 3 of this elixir will soon reach the U.S. market.
2013 White Blend
Color: White

Score: 91.0

Drinking window: 2015 - 2020

Tasting notes: (13.5%; a blend of numerous varieties, including about one-third Chenin Blanc, plus Marsanne, Roussanne, Grenache Blanc and Gris, Clairette, old-vine Chardonnay, Viognier, Colombard, Palomino, Semillon and Verdelho; fermented in old foudres, then aged in concrete for a year and bottled at 18 months): Cool aromas and flavors of white plum, currant, red cherry and menthol. A rather plush white wine but lovely minerality and an element of fresh herbs gives grip to the middle palate and aftertaste. Finishes with flavor-rich phenolics that do not come from wood. Serve this blend with salmon or sushi.

Producer Commentary:
Adi Badenhorst, who gained a reputation as one of South Africa's most talented winemakers during his years at Rustenberg, began his own label with wines from purchased fruit in 2006, then bought his estate near Malmesbury in Swartland in 2007. He currently farms 30 hectares on his 60-hectare farm and plans to plant another 5 in 2016 to such varieties as Palomino, Petit Manseng and Trousseau.

This is a distinctly low-tech operation that produces wines long on personality, even if they are "not technically spot on," as Badenhorst put it. He noted that he and his colleagues in Swartland pick about 15 days earlier than in Stellenbosch, and even though winemakers always talk about hang time, there's actually a bit less of that here. "I pick on psychological ripeness, and on freshness," he told me, adding that he never picks on Mondays or Fridays. "We have no choice here but to pick early and to work with sulfur."

Badenhorst does not own a destemmer or check his wines for the completion of malolactic fermentation. He co-ferments his blends in open-top fermenters and ages them in large foudres. Incidentally, Badenhorst makes a wonderfully complex sweet vermouth he calls Caperitif, using 45 different botanical ingredients, most of them local. Lot 3 of this elixir will soon reach the U.S. market.
2006 Red Wine Swartland
Color: Red

Score: 90.5

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: (92% shiraz, 5% mourvedre and 2% cinsault) Full, saturated medium ruby. High-pitched aromas of blackberry, licorice pastille, violet and menthol, lifted by exotic flowers; slightly porty but fresh. Then dense, primal and penetrating, with a crushed berry character complicated by exotic flowers. Finishes with a fine dusting of tannins that spread over the palate. Very dry and pure wine, showing limited flesh today; reminded me of a hypothetical blend of northern Rhone and Priorato. This infant needs time in bottle to stretch out and put on weight.

Producer Commentary:
2010 Chenin Blanc Secateurs Swartland
Color: White

Score: 89.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Medium straw-yellow. At once ripe and cool on the nose, offering scents of lemon curd, grapefruit pith, honeydew and lemon. Dense and sweet, with an almost creamy texture nicely leavened by ripe, harmonious acidity. Shows a peach nectar quality toward the back and the thickness of a high-end Sancerre. Dense, sweet and fresh but will it develop more complexity?

Producer Commentary:
2008 White Wine Coastal Region
Color: White

Score: 90.5

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: (a blend of chenin blanc, roussanne, grenache blanc, viognier, verdelho and chardonnay): Medium yellow. Reduced, musky nose offers apple, smoky lees and a chalky note. Rich and spicy but not yet filled in, with a slight warmth to the flavors of pit fruits, toast and smoky lees. Sweet citrus fruits give a tangy quality to the persistent finish, but this wine needs time to harmonize.

Producer Commentary:
2012 Kalmoesfontein Ramnasgras Cinsault Swartland
Color: Red

Score: 90.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: (100% cinsault; fermented with whole clusters in an old cask): Good dark red. Wild aromas of strawberry, flinty minerality, pepper and herbs. Juicy, savory and light on its feet, with sound acidity giving shape and energy to the subtly complex flavors of red berries, pepper, fynbos and minerals. Finishes firm and fresh. I'd drink this wine over the next four or five years. Winemaker: Adi Badenhorst.

Producer Commentary:
2011 Cwg Shatoe Ramnasgras Cinsault Swartland
Color: Red

Score: 89.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: (aged in a third-fill 500-liter cask): Moderately saturated pale-medium red. Delicate, captivating aromas of rose petal, lavender, smoke and high-toned pepper; a darker element of cherry syrup emerged with extended aeration. Supple and fine-grained, with lovely floral perfume to the flavors of cherry, smoke and pepper. Finishes with a dusty edge and a repeating peppery nuance. This very dry, floral, idiosyncratic cinsault could pass for a Languedoc wine, but I wanted just a bit more texture and flavor intensity. Winemaker: Adi Badenhorst.

Producer Commentary:
2014 Red Secateurs
Color: Red

Score: 89.0

Drinking window: 2017 - 2022

Tasting notes: (14% alcohol): Dark red. Red raspberry, licorice, spices, black pepper and earth on the nose. Supple, savory flavors of red berries and spices offer lovely intensity and inner-mouth lift. There's an inviting creaminess here and lovely spicy lift. This savory, delineated blend finishes with firm but fine tannins and very good length. Has the sweetness of fruits and spices and the balance for immediate enjoyment but also possesses the structure to age. A perfect inexpensive introduction to Swartland wine, even if it doesn't show the complexity of the Family Red Blend.

Producer Commentary:
2015 White Blend the Curator
Color: White

Score: 88.0

Drinking window: 2017 - 2019

Tasting notes: Pale, bright yellow. Dusty, slightly high-toned aromas of lemon zest, lime oil, green tropical fruits and spices. Surprisingly glyceral and smooth but classically dry on the palate, displaying a tactile quality to its ripe stone fruit and honey flavors. Broad, rich and satisfying for this price range. Offers good energy in an easy-drinking style, finishing with a lightly dusty phenolic quality.

Producer Commentary:
2016 Chenin Blanc Secateurs
Color: White

Score: 90.0

Drinking window: 2018 - 2022

Tasting notes: Bright yellow-gold. Ripe but subtle scents of pineapple, anise and dusty wild herbs; one gets a sense of terroir here. A step up in energy and grip from the 2015 Curator, showing lovely salinity and fresh acidity, but less round and harmonious today, and still with a bit of unabsorbed CO2. This very dry, slightly disjointed Chenin Blanc has excellent density and material but needs a year or so to harmonize.

Producer Commentary:
2013 Cwg Graniet Berg
Color: White

Score: 91.0

Drinking window: 2016 - 2021

Tasting notes: (aged for 14 months on its lees): Medium gold color. Menthol, spearmint, lemon thyme, shiso and botanical herbs on the aromatic nose: very Grenache Blanc! Rich, plush, concentrated and deep, with strong stone fruit flavors buffering the menthol and herb elements. This seamless wine relies as much on its alcohol as on its acidity for shape and grip. With a long, rising finish, this tactile white blend should age in an interesting way. Winemaker: Adi Badenhorst.

Producer Commentary:
2007 Red Wine Swartland
Color: Red

Score: 91.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: (80% shiraz, 10% mourvedre, 7% cinsault and 3% grenache): Bright, deep red-ruby. Enticing aromas of blackberry, raspberry, pepper, black olive and game. Supple, lush and broad but with a light touch and a restrained sweetness to the flavors of raspberry and smoke. Fine-grained, classically dry wine with lovely tension and subtle spice character. Spreads out nicely on the supple back end. A bit Cote-Rotie-like.

Producer Commentary:
2014 Red Blend Family
Color: Red

Score: 92.5

Drinking window: 2021 - 2028

Tasting notes: Bright, dark red. Captivating flowers and exotic herbs lift the aromas of cherry liqueur and dark raspberry; slightly medicinal in a positive way. Surprising peppery acidity gives shape and lift to the pungent flavors of cherry, raspberry, medicinal herbs and salty minerality. Still quite closed in on itself, this peppery, firm-edged, savory wine needs time to soften and expand in the bottle. Tannins are quite dusty in the early going. Quite uncompromising today but I'd love to taste it in another three or four years. Leaves behind a savory note of olive tapenade in the empty glass. This idiosyncratic, intense wine should last well.

Producer Commentary:
2012 Secateurs Rosé Swartland
Color: Rosé

Score: 88.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: (a blend of 57% cinsault, 26% shiraz and 17% grenache): Pale, bright orange-pink. Musky strawberry, minerals and medicinal herbs on the nose; smells like bone-dry, classic rose from southern France. Then intensely flavored and supple, with a touch of sweetness giving the palate an easier impression than the nose suggests. Good silky, lively rose.

Producer Commentary:
2007 White Wine Coastal Region
Color: White

Score: 92.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: (70% roussanne, 11% grenache blanc, 9% viognier, 5% sauvignon blanc and 5% chenin blanc) Fairly pale yellow. Bracing, pure aromas of lemon, orange, peach, marzipan, honey, crushed stone and spring flowers. Sappy and fresh, with very ripe but dry stone fruit, mineral and floral flavors given an urgent quality by strong acidity. Rich and tactile wine, finishing with an almost tannic phenolic edge but also terrific lift. Very Old World in style, but I would still drink this young for its fruit.

Producer Commentary:
2014 The Curator White Blend
Color: White

Score: 87.0

Drinking window: 2015 - 2018

Tasting notes: (12.7% alcohol; Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay and a bit of Semillon; the Chardonnay is estate fruit): Initially dusty nose quickly cleared to show lively aromas of orange, lime, stone, anise, dusty herbs and lemon oil. Glyceral and long on personality, showing intense honeyed stone and citrus fruit flavors complicated by slight resin and straw nuances. Initially seemed a bit phenolic on the finish but became smoother as it opened in the glass.

Producer Commentary:
Adi Badenhorst, who gained a reputation as one of South Africa's most talented winemakers during his years at Rustenberg, began his own label with wines from purchased fruit in 2006, then bought his estate near Malmesbury in Swartland in 2007. He currently farms 30 hectares on his 60-hectare farm and plans to plant another 5 in 2016 to such varieties as Palomino, Petit Manseng and Trousseau.

This is a distinctly low-tech operation that produces wines long on personality, even if they are "not technically spot on," as Badenhorst put it. He noted that he and his colleagues in Swartland pick about 15 days earlier than in Stellenbosch, and even though winemakers always talk about hang time, there's actually a bit less of that here. "I pick on psychological ripeness, and on freshness," he told me, adding that he never picks on Mondays or Fridays. "We have no choice here but to pick early and to work with sulfur."

Badenhorst does not own a destemmer or check his wines for the completion of malolactic fermentation. He co-ferments his blends in open-top fermenters and ages them in large foudres. Incidentally, Badenhorst makes a wonderfully complex sweet vermouth he calls Caperitif, using 45 different botanical ingredients, most of them local. Lot 3 of this elixir will soon reach the U.S. market.
2014 Secateurs Rosé
Color: Rosé

Score: 88.0

Drinking window: 2015 - 2017

Tasting notes: (46% Cinsault, 38% Shiraz, 8% Grenache and 8% Carignan): Deep, bright, orange-tinged pink. Soft aromas of strawberry, raspberry and musky dusty spices. Broad, plush and slightly sweet, with a saline complexity to the subtle red berry flavors. Quite plump and mouthfilling for rosé, then surprisingly dry on the back end.

Producer Commentary:
Adi Badenhorst, who gained a reputation as one of South Africa's most talented winemakers during his years at Rustenberg, began his own label with wines from purchased fruit in 2006, then bought his estate near Malmesbury in Swartland in 2007. He currently farms 30 hectares on his 60-hectare farm and plans to plant another 5 in 2016 to such varieties as Palomino, Petit Manseng and Trousseau.

This is a distinctly low-tech operation that produces wines long on personality, even if they are "not technically spot on," as Badenhorst put it. He noted that he and his colleagues in Swartland pick about 15 days earlier than in Stellenbosch, and even though winemakers always talk about hang time, there's actually a bit less of that here. "I pick on psychological ripeness, and on freshness," he told me, adding that he never picks on Mondays or Fridays. "We have no choice here but to pick early and to work with sulfur."

Badenhorst does not own a destemmer or check his wines for the completion of malolactic fermentation. He co-ferments his blends in open-top fermenters and ages them in large foudres. Incidentally, Badenhorst makes a wonderfully complex sweet vermouth he calls Caperitif, using 45 different botanical ingredients, most of them local. Lot 3 of this elixir will soon reach the U.S. market.
2014 White Blend Family
Color: White

Score: 92.0

Drinking window: 2018 - 2022

Tasting notes: Bright, pale straw-yellow. Musky, soil-driven scents of stone fruits, dusty herbs and almond. Rich, broad and mouthfilling, with surprising minerality and harmonious acidity shaping the yellow stone fruit, spice and soft citrus flavors. Offers a lovely balance of energy and sweetness, not to mention an ideal combination of density and airiness. Finishes with lovely length and drinkability, good grip and firmness and a touch of phenolic character. This is far more interesting than so much Chardonnay.

Producer Commentary:
2016 Rosé Secateurs
Color: Rosé

Score: 89.0

Drinking window: 2017 - 2018

Tasting notes: Pale orange-pink. Subtle, fresh strawberry and red cherry aromas, with a complicating hint of medicinal herbs. Juicy, ripe red berry fruit is clean and fresh. Finishes with good grip. An excellent dry, thirst-quenching rosé, nicely tactile for this bottling.

Producer Commentary:
2011 The Curator Red Wine Coastal Region
Color: Red

Score: 88.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: (82% shiraz, 16% mourvedre and 1% each cinsault and viognier): Bright, moderately saturated red. Peppery red fruits and tree bark on the nose, perfumed by botanical herbs. Then surprisingly sweet--almost syrupy--in the mouth, with strawberry, licorice and pepper flavors complicated by a saline element and lifted by lively acidity. The red fruit flavors are framed by a peppery, herbal edge on the back end. A very good value.

Producer Commentary:
2009 Secateurs Red Coastal Region
Color: Red

Score: 89.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: (58% shiraz, 15% cabernet sauvignon, 14% cinsault, 8% mourvedre, 4% grenache and 1% carignan, co-fermented in concrete tank): Bright ruby-red. High-toned raspberry liqueur, dark chocolate and wild herbs on the nose; in a distinctly Southern style. Then sweet and seamless but with surprising firming acidity and grip. Not complex but juicy and powerful, with building, drying tannins. A bit Rayas-like but without the mystery.

Producer Commentary:
2011 Secateurs Red Coastal Region
Color: Red

Score: 90.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: (43% shiraz, 43% cinsault, 8% grenache and 3% each mourvedre and pinotage): Good full red. Musky strawberry and candied raspberry aromas are complemented by spices, minerals and tree bark, plus a smoky, saline quality. Suave and seamless in the mouth, with insidious smoky minerality giving shape to the almost liqueur-like red berry and saline flavors. Finishes silky and long, with dusty tannins and lingering sweetness. Distinctly Old World in the best sense.

Producer Commentary:
2013 Cwg Geel Kapel Muscat De Frontignan
Color: White

Score: 90.0

Drinking window: 2015 - 2020

Tasting notes: (aged in an old cask for a year and a half and bottled without filtration): Slightly hazy amber-gold color. High-toned aromas of orange peel, oatmeal, roasted nuts and cream soda. Fat, ripe and plush but dry, with enough acidity to maintain its shape. Made without sulfur additions. An idiosyncratic one-off, like its author. Winemaker: Adi Badenhorst.

Producer Commentary:
2013 Kapelsis Kapensis
Color: White

Score: 90.0

Drinking window: 2015 - 2019

Tasting notes: (white Muscadelle from the north of the Swartland appellation; this will be a Cape Winemakers Guild offering next fall; fermented on its skins for ten days): Pale orange. Muscaty aromas of orange blossom, mirabelle and honey, plus a hint of toffee. Very silky on entry, then rich in the middle, offering enticing flavors of orange blossom and spices. Finishes with a serious dusting of tannins. The perfect wine for eggs benedict, suggests Badenhorst.

Producer Commentary:
Adi Badenhorst, who gained a reputation as one of South Africa's most talented winemakers during his years at Rustenberg, began his own label with wines from purchased fruit in 2006, then bought his estate near Malmesbury in Swartland in 2007. He currently farms 30 hectares on his 60-hectare farm and plans to plant another 5 in 2016 to such varieties as Palomino, Petit Manseng and Trousseau.

This is a distinctly low-tech operation that produces wines long on personality, even if they are "not technically spot on," as Badenhorst put it. He noted that he and his colleagues in Swartland pick about 15 days earlier than in Stellenbosch, and even though winemakers always talk about hang time, there's actually a bit less of that here. "I pick on psychological ripeness, and on freshness," he told me, adding that he never picks on Mondays or Fridays. "We have no choice here but to pick early and to work with sulfur."

Badenhorst does not own a destemmer or check his wines for the completion of malolactic fermentation. He co-ferments his blends in open-top fermenters and ages them in large foudres. Incidentally, Badenhorst makes a wonderfully complex sweet vermouth he calls Caperitif, using 45 different botanical ingredients, most of them local. Lot 3 of this elixir will soon reach the U.S. market.
2012 Secateurs Red
Color: Red

Score: 90.0

Drinking window: 2015 - 2021

Tasting notes: (12.7% alcohol; mostly Shiraz, Grenache and Cinsault, co-fermented and matured in concrete tanks and big foudres): Good medium red. Sexy aromas of cherry, orange peel and flowers, plus a bit of leathery funk and a touch of candied fruits. An attractive sweet/spicy midweight from vines picked on the early side. Substantial ripe tannins build with air. The pH here is 3.68.

Producer Commentary:
Adi Badenhorst, who gained a reputation as one of South Africa's most talented winemakers during his years at Rustenberg, began his own label with wines from purchased fruit in 2006, then bought his estate near Malmesbury in Swartland in 2007. He currently farms 30 hectares on his 60-hectare farm and plans to plant another 5 in 2016 to such varieties as Palomino, Petit Manseng and Trousseau.

This is a distinctly low-tech operation that produces wines long on personality, even if they are "not technically spot on," as Badenhorst put it. He noted that he and his colleagues in Swartland pick about 15 days earlier than in Stellenbosch, and even though winemakers always talk about hang time, there's actually a bit less of that here. "I pick on psychological ripeness, and on freshness," he told me, adding that he never picks on Mondays or Fridays. "We have no choice here but to pick early and to work with sulfur."

Badenhorst does not own a destemmer or check his wines for the completion of malolactic fermentation. He co-ferments his blends in open-top fermenters and ages them in large foudres. Incidentally, Badenhorst makes a wonderfully complex sweet vermouth he calls Caperitif, using 45 different botanical ingredients, most of them local. Lot 3 of this elixir will soon reach the U.S. market.
2009 Red Wine Swartland
Color: Red

Score: 92.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: (66% shiraz, 16% mourvedre, 14% grenache and 4% cinsault): Good full ruby-red. Highly complex, savory nose combines black raspberry, minerals, herbs, spices, dark chocolate and black olive. Plush, broad, saline and dry, with deep, mouthfilling flavors of raspberry, black olive, wild herbs and mocha. A wonderfully tactile, ripe blend with smooth tannins and lingering flavors of sexy red berries, pepper, herbs and spices. A superb showing.

Producer Commentary:
2012 Raaigras Grenache
Color: Red

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 2015 - 2021

Tasting notes: (12.5% alcohol; from the oldest Grenache vineyard in South Africa, according to Badenhorst, planted in 1951): Pale-medium red. Smoky, wonderfully subtle, slightly Pinot-like aromas of cherry, blueberry and white pepper. Very suave, very dry and transparent, with understated red fruit and mineral flavors displaying excellent verve. Finishes with noble talc-like granitic tannins and superb length. Very sophisticated wine. Badenhorst noted that Raaigras rhymes with Rayas.

Producer Commentary:
Adi Badenhorst, who gained a reputation as one of South Africa's most talented winemakers during his years at Rustenberg, began his own label with wines from purchased fruit in 2006, then bought his estate near Malmesbury in Swartland in 2007. He currently farms 30 hectares on his 60-hectare farm and plans to plant another 5 in 2016 to such varieties as Palomino, Petit Manseng and Trousseau.

This is a distinctly low-tech operation that produces wines long on personality, even if they are "not technically spot on," as Badenhorst put it. He noted that he and his colleagues in Swartland pick about 15 days earlier than in Stellenbosch, and even though winemakers always talk about hang time, there's actually a bit less of that here. "I pick on psychological ripeness, and on freshness," he told me, adding that he never picks on Mondays or Fridays. "We have no choice here but to pick early and to work with sulfur."

Badenhorst does not own a destemmer or check his wines for the completion of malolactic fermentation. He co-ferments his blends in open-top fermenters and ages them in large foudres. Incidentally, Badenhorst makes a wonderfully complex sweet vermouth he calls Caperitif, using 45 different botanical ingredients, most of them local. Lot 3 of this elixir will soon reach the U.S. market.
2011 Cwg L. D. R. Shiraz Swartland
Color: Red

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: (100% shiraz; fermented in concrete tank, then aged in old barrels for 15 months): Bright red-ruby. Lovely floral lift and granitic mineral-and-pepper pungency to the aromas of dark berries, dusty herbs, spices, crushed rock and exotic flowers; very Old World. Then penetrating, spicy and light on its feet, showing uncommon sappy energy to its pomegranate, mineral and and herb flavors. The rising finish shows a broad dusting of tannins, superb grip and length, a wonderful light touch, and captivating mineral-driven perfume. This fascinating wine has the texture and inner-mouth tension of a top pinot but the flavors are much more southern France. I couldn't put the bottle down, but this shiraz should also evolve well in the cellar. Winemaker: Adi Badenhorst.

Producer Commentary:
2014 Brakuil Barbarossa
Color: Red

Score: 89.0

Drinking window: 2015 - 2018

Tasting notes: (from a very old vineyard three kilometers from the coast, with huge bunches and berries; the grapes smelled like kelp, said Badenhorst, who did light pigeage, left the wine in open-top fermenters, and pressed after a week): Bright red. Wonderfully fresh, complex aromas of cherry, orange zest and pepper; reminded me a bit of Gamay. Captivating easy-drinking wine with fairly soft acidity shaping the red fruit flavors. A very distinctive wine with soft tannins. Planted in beach sand with limestone underneath in the early 1960s, from a variety found in Romania, Corsica and Italy. Badenhorst told me that four of these huge bunches can fill a picking crate and yet this wine does not lack for color or flavor intensity.

Producer Commentary:
Adi Badenhorst, who gained a reputation as one of South Africa's most talented winemakers during his years at Rustenberg, began his own label with wines from purchased fruit in 2006, then bought his estate near Malmesbury in Swartland in 2007. He currently farms 30 hectares on his 60-hectare farm and plans to plant another 5 in 2016 to such varieties as Palomino, Petit Manseng and Trousseau.

This is a distinctly low-tech operation that produces wines long on personality, even if they are "not technically spot on," as Badenhorst put it. He noted that he and his colleagues in Swartland pick about 15 days earlier than in Stellenbosch, and even though winemakers always talk about hang time, there's actually a bit less of that here. "I pick on psychological ripeness, and on freshness," he told me, adding that he never picks on Mondays or Fridays. "We have no choice here but to pick early and to work with sulfur."

Badenhorst does not own a destemmer or check his wines for the completion of malolactic fermentation. He co-ferments his blends in open-top fermenters and ages them in large foudres. Incidentally, Badenhorst makes a wonderfully complex sweet vermouth he calls Caperitif, using 45 different botanical ingredients, most of them local. Lot 3 of this elixir will soon reach the U.S. market.
2012 Kalmoesfontein Dassiekop Steen Swartland
Color: White

Score: 90.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: (100% chenin blanc; 4.5 grams per liter of residual sugar): Bright straw. Aromas and flavors of white plum, lemon, lime, spices and honey, plus a whiff of wet wool that reminded me of Vouvray. Boasts good stuffing and flavor intensity, with apple and spice notes framed by an edge of acidity. Supple and quite distinctive. (A second bottle was a bit diffuse and somewhat more evolved, rating 89 points.) Winemaker: Adi Badenhorst.

Producer Commentary:
0 Caperitif Kaapse Dief #5
Color: Sweet Liquor

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 2017 - 2020

Tasting notes: (17.5% alcohol; a sweet Vermouth made from Chenin Blanc flavored with Quinchona bark and 35 botanicals and sweetened with grape sugar; this is Lot #5): Copper-orange color. Knockout, endlessly complex perfume of orange blossom, cinnamon Red Hots, clove, ginger and mint. A silky, umami-like texture is utterly seamless and smooth. Hints of griotte cherry, orange zest, fynbos and tree bark are lifted by a strong spicy character. Wonderfully complex, moderately sweet and long, with a finishing note of bitter orange giving the finish a drier quality and great refreshment value. I bet you can't drink just one glass. In partnership with Danish mixologist Lars-Erik Schmidt, Adi Badenhorst reinvented an old South African product that disappeared in about 1910. Serve it on its own over ice with a slice of lemon, or with club soda. It's also remarkably versatile in cocktails.

Producer Commentary:
2012 Chenin Blanc Secateurs Swartland
Color: White

Score: 89.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Bright, light yellow. Peachy fruit salad and spice aromas are enlivened by grapefruit pith. Rich and silky, with a slightly sweet impression nicely countered by harmonious acidity. Round and fairly full in the mouth and still a bit youthfully aggressive. Finishes nicely dry, with hints of ripe stone fruits and quince.

Producer Commentary:
2018 Golden Slopes
Color: White

Score: 92.0

Drinking window: 2021 - 2036

Tasting notes: The 2018 Golden Slopes is whole-bunch-pressed Chenin Blanc matured in 1,200-liter foudres and bottled unfiltered. The nose needs to coalesce a little more, only reluctantly offering beeswax and honeysuckle with rigorous aeration. The palate is well balanced with marmalade and quince on the entry. This is tight, linear and quite penetrating Chenin Blanc with palpable energy toward the lively finish. Excellent. 

Producer Commentary:
2018 Klip Kop
Color: White

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 2020 - 2032

Tasting notes: The 2018 Klip Kop is pure whole-bunch-pressed Chenin Blanc fermented in 1,200-liter foudres. It has a more backward bouquet compared to the Kelder, offering mirabelle and jasmine scents mixed with a light but fragrant honeysuckle tang. The palate is medium-bodied with a lovely saline note on the entry; tightly wound at first, it delivers plenty of lightly spiced, nutty/smoky notes toward the persistent finish. Superb. 

Producer Commentary:
2018 Red Blend Aa Badenhorst
Color: Red

Score: 92.0

Drinking window: 2022 - 2032

Tasting notes: The 2018 Red Blend, comprising Shiraz, Grenache, Cinsault and Tinta Barocca fermented in concrete tanks, offers appealing mulberry, black plum, curry leaf and potpourri aroma that gradually gain intensity with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with red berry fruit, white pepper and clove. The finish has a precision that I admire and a saltiness that lingers in the mouth. Toothsome! 

Producer Commentary:
2019 Ramnasgras
Color: Red

Score: 91.0

Drinking window: 2022 - 2030

Tasting notes: The 2019 Ramnasgras is pure Cinsault matured in concrete and an old wooden foudre. Pure brambly red fruit on the nose mingles with sous-bois, hawthorn and light tobacco scents. The palate is medium-bodied with a peppermint-tinged opening and fine acidity. Quite strict and precise toward the tart finish, which just needs a little more grip. Very fine. 

Producer Commentary:
2019 Raaigras
Color: Red

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 2022 - 2034

Tasting notes: The 2019 Raaigras, pure Grenache including 15% stems, has a vibrant bouquet of red cherry and strawberry scents, demonstrating a little more presence than Badenhorst’s other reds. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, crisp red berry fruit and a liberal sprinkling of white pepper. The whole bunch addition lends more presence and density compared to other cuvées from Badenhorst, and there is superb length. The standout this year. 

Producer Commentary:
2019 Curator
Color: Red

Score: 92.0

Drinking window: 2022 - 2032

Tasting notes: The 2019 Curator, a blend of Shiraz, Cinsault and Mourvèdre matured in used barrels, has a lovely bouquet of mulberry, red plum, rooibos and light fennel aromas. The harmonious, expressive palate is medium-bodied with a dab of pepper on the entry, good weight and slightly tertiary red fruit toward the finish. This is a fine Red Blend with good persistence and plenty of personality. 

Producer Commentary:
2019 Secateurs Riviera
Color: White

Score: 86.0

Drinking window: 2021 - 2024

Tasting notes: The 2019 Secateurs Riviera is skin-macerated Chenin Blanc that undergoes some carbonic maceration. The nose feels a little reduced at first and requires a few minutes to open, eventually clarifying to reveal melon, mango and pawpaw scents, along with melted candle wax and wet wool. The palate is well balanced, offering pear and grapefruit on the entry and fine acidity, but it is just missing some depth and complexity on the finish. 

Producer Commentary:
2019 Klipkop
Color: White

Score: 90.0

Drinking window: 2022 - 2030

Tasting notes: The 2019 Klipkop (which I keep misreading as clip-clop, as I am sure many people do) takes a little time to cohere in the glass. Lime, citrus peel and light orange peel notes gradually unfurl, traces of dandelion and broom emerging. The palate is very well balanced with fine acidity, moderate depth and a waxy texture. I am just looking for a little more complexity on the finish, though I appreciate the touches of lemongrass that spring up on the finish. 

Producer Commentary:
2019 Dassiekop
Color: White

Score: 92.0

Drinking window: 2022 - 2030

Tasting notes: The 2019 Dassiekop Steen hesitates to coalesce in the glass, eventually revealing dried honey, melted wax and a scent that reminds me of a brass doorknocker! The palate is well balanced with fine definition and crisp acidity. Suggestions of toffee apple and mango commingle with attractive saline/sea spray notes toward the finish. Very fine, but my advice is to afford this an hour’s decanting. 

Producer Commentary:
2019 The Golden Slopes
Color: White

Score: 91.0

Drinking window: 2022 - 2030

Tasting notes: The 2019 The Golden Slopes Chenin Blanc, whole-bunch-pressed straight into a small old oak foudre, has a resinous bouquet of beeswax and light Conference pear aromas. The aromatics just need a little egging on. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity; this is a more "neutral" take on the grape variety. Steely and reserved, a Chenin Blanc that will benefit from a year or two in bottle. 

Producer Commentary:
2017 Red Aa Badenhorst Family
Color: Red

Score: 92.0

Drinking window: 2021 - 2035

Tasting notes: The 2017 Family Red is a blend of Syrah, Cinsault, Grenache and Tinta Barocca, all co-fermented, aged for 12 months in old foudres. Two bottles were tasted; the first showed a bit of "funk," so a second was summoned. The latter bottle was fresher, offering star-anis-tinged brambly red fruit, leather and light dried blood aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins, well-judged acidity and just the right amount of salinity on the finish to encourage another sip. It develops a discreet herbal edge with time, manifesting more complexity and refinement. Lovely. 

Producer Commentary:
2018 Pinot Noir Bokveld
Color: Red

Score: 91.0

Drinking window: 2021 - 2035

Tasting notes: The 2018 Bokveld Pinot Noir comes from the sub-region of the Ceres plateau, and this vintage contains 25% whole bunches, aged in 500-liter oak barrels. The attractive nose is quite pure in style yet conveys the subtle exoticism of the Cape. The palate is medium-bodied with a smooth, almost velvety opening. The acidity is pitched just right, lending harmony and poise. Fresh and seamless in style, with a caressing texture on the finish. Superb.

Producer Commentary:
2018 Cinsault Ringmuur
Color: Red

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 2021 - 2036

Tasting notes: The 2018 Cinsault Ringmuur is partly whole-bunch-fermented and aged in 500-liter barrels only (no foudres). Deeper and slightly more limpid in color than the Ramnasgras, it has a light morello cherry and pressed rose petal bouquet. The smooth-textured palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, offering white pepper, cloves and hints of tobacco toward the very harmonious and satisfying finish. Recommended. 

Producer Commentary:
2018 Red Secateurs
Color: Red

Score: 89.0

Drinking window: 2020 - 2028

Tasting notes: The 2018 Secateurs Red comes from various Swartland vineyards, fermented in concrete, foudres and barrels. It has a generous bouquet of dark plum and touches of boysenberry, almost pastille-like in terms of purity. The lightly spiced palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins and touches of bell pepper and bay leaf toward the finish. The sheer drinkability of this Secateurs is pretty awesome. 

Producer Commentary:
2019 Secateurs
Color: White

Score: 88.0

Drinking window: 2019 - 2025

Tasting notes: The 2019 Secateurs, Badenhorst’s super-successful entry-level label, comes from 26 Swartland vineyards and is matured in a combination of concrete and foudres. The nose grabs you by the olfactory senses with pineapple, saffron and tangerine aromas. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, nice focus and good weight on the simple but crisp lime and pineapple finish. Delicious and a great value to boot.

Producer Commentary:
2018 Secateurs Rivera
Color: White

Score:

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: The 2018 Secateurs Rivera, Adi Badenhorst’s entry-level white (Chenin Blanc and Sémillon), fermented on skins in 500-liter barrels, is cloudy in appearance. It presents a very light, cider-tinged nose, and the palate lacks the energy I expect from an orange wine. Sorry, but this does not work for me. 

Producer Commentary:
2018 Dassiekop
Color: White

Score: 92.5

Drinking window: 2022 - 2036

Tasting notes: The 2018 Dassiekop, vinified the same as the Klip Kop, has a very neutral aromatic profile; I would like more Chenin Blanc to show through. The palate is much better, almost the opposite of the nose, with an effervescent orange rind, tangerine and white pepper opening, impressive weight and a tangible sense of energy and tension on the finish. Give this two or three years in bottle for the bouquet to get itself together. 

Producer Commentary:
2018 Kelder
Color: White

Score: 92.0

Drinking window: 2020 - 2032

Tasting notes: The 2018 Kelder is pure whole-bunch-pressed Chenin Blanc aged in 1,200-liter foudres . It has an impressive bouquet of pressed yellow flowers, grilled hazelnuts and chalky aromas billowing from the glass. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity and more "attack" than the Family White 2017 tasted alongside, conveying a sense of energy and precision on the finish. Excellent. 

Producer Commentary:
2019 Secateurs
Color: Red

Score: 89.0

Drinking window: 2021 - 2028

Tasting notes: The 2019 Secateurs, a blend of Cinsault, Grenache and Shiraz, offers attractive mulberry, dark chocolate and fynbos scents on the nose that transport you directly to the wilds of the Capelands. Lovely definition and focus. The palate is medium-bodied with a fresh opening. While the aromatics intimate a lush Swartland blend, this is in fact much stricter and more linear. Dark berry fruit, white pepper, sage and touches of curry leaf vie for attention, and the finish is both long and tender. Excellent considering the price.

Producer Commentary:
2020 Secateurs
Color: Rosé

Score: 89.0

Drinking window: 2021 - 2024

Tasting notes: The 2020 Secateurs Rosé comes from hand-harvested bush vines, matured in used barrels and concrete. It has a lovely peach and white strawberry bouquet that is both generous and well defined. The palate is well delineated, with a crisp line of acidity and just the right amount of bitterness to keep this rosé refreshingly edgy on the finish. Recommended. 

Producer Commentary:
2017 White Blend Aa Badenhorst Family
Color: White

Score: 90.0

Drinking window: 2021 - 2032

Tasting notes: The 2017 Family White Blend is matured in foudres for 12 months. Grass clippings, stem ginger and a smear of dried honey comprise the bouquet, which needs a little more encouragement than usual. The well-balanced palate is more immediate, offering a fine bead of acidity and a tang of lemongrass and ginger toward the finish. I would like a little more roundness and complexity on the finish. Give this a couple of years in bottle. 

Producer Commentary:
2018 Sout Van Die Aarde
Color: White

Score: 90.0

Drinking window: 2019 - 2029

Tasting notes: The 2018 Sout van die Aarde is pure Palomino fermented in 500-liter barrels for 11 months. It has a light, neutral bouquet with discreet gravelly and sea spray scents, less oxidative in style than other Palominos found in the Capelands. The clean, fresh, lightly spiced palate offers a fine bead of acidity and a tang of lemongrass and dessicated orange peel on the finish. Very fine. 

Producer Commentary:
2019 White Blend the Curator
Color: White

Score: 88.0

Drinking window: 2021 - 2025

Tasting notes: The 2019 The Curator White Blend consists of 83% Chenin Blanc, 10% Chardonnay and 7% Viognier. It has an attractive nose featuring tropical notes of passion fruit and guava, maybe a little smudged but generous. The palate is simple but balanced, displaying a touch of spice on the entry, a nice twist of sour lemon counterbalancing the richness of this Chenin Blanc, and then a welcome saltiness on the finish. Fine. 

Producer Commentary:
2019 Rosé Secateurs
Color: Rosé

Score: 89.0

Drinking window: 2019 - 2025

Tasting notes: The 2019 Secateurs Rosé is bright salmon in color. I would have liked a little more fruit intensity on the nose, which is a tad too neutral for my liking. The palate is bright and perky on the entry with a pleasing saline undercurrent and impressive precision on the finish. Overall, this is a finely crafted rosé that ends on a high note. 

Producer Commentary:
2020 Chenin Blanc Secateurs
Color: White

Score: 88.0

Drinking window: 2021 - 2025

Tasting notes: The 2020 Chenin Blanc Secateurs, which comes from 26 different vineyards, is matured in 500-liter barrels and stainless steel. It offers attractive yellow plum, dried honey and candle wax scents and just a touch of bruised apple in the background. The palate is well balanced with a spicy, stem-ginger-tinged entry, fine acidity and a subtle curry leaf note springing up on the finish. Just a delightful, easygoing Chenin Blanc from Adi Badenhorst. 

Producer Commentary:
2018 Cinsault Ramnasgras
Color: Red

Score: 91.0

Drinking window: 2020 - 2034

Tasting notes: The 2018 Cinsault Ramnasgras is fully destemmed and fermented in concrete, then aged in foudres. It has a tertiary bouquet of tightly wound red fruit, a patina of concrete seeping into the aromatic profile. The palate is medium-bodied with a supple opening of crushed strawberry, red cherries and hints of fennel, nicely defined if needing just a little more intensity. The palate is medium-bodied with a tertiary opening. This Cinsault is quite peppery in style, leaving the mouth tingling with Szechuan pepper notes long after it has departed. Very fine. 

Producer Commentary:
2018 Rosé Secateurs Swartland
Color: Rosé

Score: 89.0

Drinking window: 2018 - 2022

Tasting notes: The 2018 Secateurs Swartland Rosé is a straight Cinsault bottled in mid-April. It has a pretty red cherry and light grapefruit bouquet, touches of strawberry developing in the glass. The palate is well balanced with crisp acidity, nice weight (perhaps more than previous vintages) and lovely, pure red cherry and strawberry toward the finish. Excellent. 

Producer Commentary:
It is always a pleasure to visit the irascible Adi Badenhorst at Kalmoesfontein, his farm in Swartland. There is something a bit chaotic about the place with demijohns scattered here and there. Badenhorst developed a wonderful infused vermouth that has been a great success. I remember tasting the assorted glass demijohns where he was experimenting with various botanical infusions. Of course, Badenhorst was a pivotal figure in the Swartland Revolution and remains one of its most familiar (hirsute) faces. With his manner so relaxed he might as well be lying down, not to mention what sometimes feels like an “anything goes” approach to winemaking, he is easy to underestimate but there is a sharp brain at work here and a talented winemaker. His joie-de-vivre is matched by business acumen that enabled him to transform and expand his winery. “We bought the adjacent farm and also lease another 18 hectares,” he explained. “We have 41 hectares of old vines and the oldest was planted in 1952. So, now we have 70 hectares in total.” I asked him about the 2016 vintage. “The vintage has good acidity, making tighter wines, whilst the 2017 has slightly lower acidity and more expressive open fruit.” Readers should watch out for a video that I made with Badenhorst during my visit that will hopefully give you a flavor of the man. His entry-level Secateurs range has been hugely successful in both domestic and overseas markets, here the 2016 Syrah is a standout. His 2017 Golden Slopes Chenin Blanc from granite soils and an excellent Cinsault from the Ramnasgras vineyard smote me. The Shiraz-dominated 2016 Family Red Blend is excellent and I quite enjoyed the chalky, almost austere finish.
2017 Secateurs Swartland Rosé
Color: Rosé

Score: 90.0

Drinking window: 2018 - 2020

Tasting notes: Pale, vivid pink. Bright and energetic on the nose, displaying vibrant red berry and floral scents and subtle floral and herb topnotes. Brisk and refreshing on the palate, offering tangy redcurrant and strawberry flavors that slowly deepen with aeration. Closes on a sexy floral note, with very good, mineral-tinged persistence.

Producer Commentary:
2017 Klip Kop Steen
Color: White

Score: 91.0

Drinking window: 2019 - 2028

Tasting notes: The 2017 Klip Kop Steen comes from low-vigor vines on shallow granite soils, which produce exposed small bunches that attain a little more ripeness, and undergoes a 16-month ferment on the gross lees. It has a tightly wound, flinty, almost reductive bouquet with just a touch of turpentine. The palate is well balanced, with a waxy entry, presenting a fine line of acidity and notes of orange pith, Comice pear, crushed stone and veins of stem ginger toward the persistent finish. Very fine. 

Producer Commentary:
It is always a pleasure to visit the irascible Adi Badenhorst at Kalmoesfontein, his farm in Swartland. There is something a bit chaotic about the place with demijohns scattered here and there. Badenhorst developed a wonderful infused vermouth that has been a great success. I remember tasting the assorted glass demijohns where he was experimenting with various botanical infusions. Of course, Badenhorst was a pivotal figure in the Swartland Revolution and remains one of its most familiar (hirsute) faces. With his manner so relaxed he might as well be lying down, not to mention what sometimes feels like an “anything goes” approach to winemaking, he is easy to underestimate but there is a sharp brain at work here and a talented winemaker. His joie-de-vivre is matched by business acumen that enabled him to transform and expand his winery. “We bought the adjacent farm and also lease another 18 hectares,” he explained. “We have 41 hectares of old vines and the oldest was planted in 1952. So, now we have 70 hectares in total.” I asked him about the 2016 vintage. “The vintage has good acidity, making tighter wines, whilst the 2017 has slightly lower acidity and more expressive open fruit.” Readers should watch out for a video that I made with Badenhorst during my visit that will hopefully give you a flavor of the man. His entry-level Secateurs range has been hugely successful in both domestic and overseas markets, here the 2016 Syrah is a standout. His 2017 Golden Slopes Chenin Blanc from granite soils and an excellent Cinsault from the Ramnasgras vineyard smote me. The Shiraz-dominated 2016 Family Red Blend is excellent and I quite enjoyed the chalky, almost austere finish.
2016 Shiraz Secateurs
Color: Red

Score: 90.0

Drinking window: 2018 - 2023

Tasting notes: The 2016 Secateurs Red is a blend of mainly Shiraz with Cinsault and Grenache, although from 2017 it will shimmy over to a more Cinsault-dominated blend. It has an attractive bouquet of cranberry, wild strawberry and a light ferrous note - fresh and very alluring. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannin and crisp acidity, and sappy in the mouth, offering ample red berry fruit laced with black tea and sage toward the finish. Factor in the price and you can understand why this sells a lot of cases in the United States and the UK. Superb. 

Producer Commentary:
It is always a pleasure to visit the irascible Adi Badenhorst at Kalmoesfontein, his farm in Swartland. There is something a bit chaotic about the place with demijohns scattered here and there. Badenhorst developed a wonderful infused vermouth that has been a great success. I remember tasting the assorted glass demijohns where he was experimenting with various botanical infusions. Of course, Badenhorst was a pivotal figure in the Swartland Revolution and remains one of its most familiar (hirsute) faces. With his manner so relaxed he might as well be lying down, not to mention what sometimes feels like an “anything goes” approach to winemaking, he is easy to underestimate but there is a sharp brain at work here and a talented winemaker. His joie-de-vivre is matched by business acumen that enabled him to transform and expand his winery. “We bought the adjacent farm and also lease another 18 hectares,” he explained. “We have 41 hectares of old vines and the oldest was planted in 1952. So, now we have 70 hectares in total.” I asked him about the 2016 vintage. “The vintage has good acidity, making tighter wines, whilst the 2017 has slightly lower acidity and more expressive open fruit.” Readers should watch out for a video that I made with Badenhorst during my visit that will hopefully give you a flavor of the man. His entry-level Secateurs range has been hugely successful in both domestic and overseas markets, here the 2016 Syrah is a standout. His 2017 Golden Slopes Chenin Blanc from granite soils and an excellent Cinsault from the Ramnasgras vineyard smote me. The Shiraz-dominated 2016 Family Red Blend is excellent and I quite enjoyed the chalky, almost austere finish.
2017 Tinta Barocca Sk’windjiesvlei
Color: Red

Score: 92.0

Drinking window: 2029 - 2030

Tasting notes: The 2017 Sk’Windjiesvlei Tinta Barocca comes from a seven-hectare unpronounceable vineyard whose name means “gusty wind,” planted in 1962, when this Portuguese variety was becoming increasingly popular in the Capelands. It has a very pure blackberry and briar bouquet with hints of pressed iris and later, just a hint of canned prune. The palate is medium-bodied with black plum, blackberry and light white pepper notes, intriguingly almost Barolo-like in tannic structure, with gentle grip on the finish. Superb. 

Producer Commentary:
It is always a pleasure to visit the irascible Adi Badenhorst at Kalmoesfontein, his farm in Swartland. There is something a bit chaotic about the place with demijohns scattered here and there. Badenhorst developed a wonderful infused vermouth that has been a great success. I remember tasting the assorted glass demijohns where he was experimenting with various botanical infusions. Of course, Badenhorst was a pivotal figure in the Swartland Revolution and remains one of its most familiar (hirsute) faces. With his manner so relaxed he might as well be lying down, not to mention what sometimes feels like an “anything goes” approach to winemaking, he is easy to underestimate but there is a sharp brain at work here and a talented winemaker. His joie-de-vivre is matched by business acumen that enabled him to transform and expand his winery. “We bought the adjacent farm and also lease another 18 hectares,” he explained. “We have 41 hectares of old vines and the oldest was planted in 1952. So, now we have 70 hectares in total.” I asked him about the 2016 vintage. “The vintage has good acidity, making tighter wines, whilst the 2017 has slightly lower acidity and more expressive open fruit.” Readers should watch out for a video that I made with Badenhorst during my visit that will hopefully give you a flavor of the man. His entry-level Secateurs range has been hugely successful in both domestic and overseas markets, here the 2016 Syrah is a standout. His 2017 Golden Slopes Chenin Blanc from granite soils and an excellent Cinsault from the Ramnasgras vineyard smote me. The Shiraz-dominated 2016 Family Red Blend is excellent and I quite enjoyed the chalky, almost austere finish.
2017 Grenache Raaigras
Color: Red

Score: 91.0

Drinking window: 2019 - 2029

Tasting notes: The 2017 Raaigras (“rye grass”) Grenache comes from the oldest Grenache in South Africa, planted in 1952. It has a well-defined, very perfumed, almost minty bouquet of thyme and sage. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly medicinal opening, that leitmotif of peppermint surfacing through the red fruit, and well defined with gentle grip and slightly chalky tannin on the sappy finish. Very fine. 

Producer Commentary:
It is always a pleasure to visit the irascible Adi Badenhorst at Kalmoesfontein, his farm in Swartland. There is something a bit chaotic about the place with demijohns scattered here and there. Badenhorst developed a wonderful infused vermouth that has been a great success. I remember tasting the assorted glass demijohns where he was experimenting with various botanical infusions. Of course, Badenhorst was a pivotal figure in the Swartland Revolution and remains one of its most familiar (hirsute) faces. With his manner so relaxed he might as well be lying down, not to mention what sometimes feels like an “anything goes” approach to winemaking, he is easy to underestimate but there is a sharp brain at work here and a talented winemaker. His joie-de-vivre is matched by business acumen that enabled him to transform and expand his winery. “We bought the adjacent farm and also lease another 18 hectares,” he explained. “We have 41 hectares of old vines and the oldest was planted in 1952. So, now we have 70 hectares in total.” I asked him about the 2016 vintage. “The vintage has good acidity, making tighter wines, whilst the 2017 has slightly lower acidity and more expressive open fruit.” Readers should watch out for a video that I made with Badenhorst during my visit that will hopefully give you a flavor of the man. His entry-level Secateurs range has been hugely successful in both domestic and overseas markets, here the 2016 Syrah is a standout. His 2017 Golden Slopes Chenin Blanc from granite soils and an excellent Cinsault from the Ramnasgras vineyard smote me. The Shiraz-dominated 2016 Family Red Blend is excellent and I quite enjoyed the chalky, almost austere finish.
2017 Piet Bok Se Bos Steen
Color: White

Score: 92.0

Drinking window: 2019 - 2028

Tasting notes: The 2017 Piet Bok Se Bos Steen, which is named after the original farmer of Adi's estate, comes from vines planted in 1968. This is the first time it has not been blended into the Secateurs Chenin Blanc. It has a well-defined bouquet of yellow plum, white flower and light wax resin aromas that unfold beautifully in the glass. The palate is well balanced with a pithy core of yellow stone fruit, a fine bead of acidity and a waxy-textured, quite persistent finish. Superb.

Producer Commentary:
It is always a pleasure to visit the irascible Adi Badenhorst at Kalmoesfontein, his farm in Swartland. There is something a bit chaotic about the place with demijohns scattered here and there. Badenhorst developed a wonderful infused vermouth that has been a great success. I remember tasting the assorted glass demijohns where he was experimenting with various botanical infusions. Of course, Badenhorst was a pivotal figure in the Swartland Revolution and remains one of its most familiar (hirsute) faces. With his manner so relaxed he might as well be lying down, not to mention what sometimes feels like an “anything goes” approach to winemaking, he is easy to underestimate but there is a sharp brain at work here and a talented winemaker. His joie-de-vivre is matched by business acumen that enabled him to transform and expand his winery. “We bought the adjacent farm and also lease another 18 hectares,” he explained. “We have 41 hectares of old vines and the oldest was planted in 1952. So, now we have 70 hectares in total.” I asked him about the 2016 vintage. “The vintage has good acidity, making tighter wines, whilst the 2017 has slightly lower acidity and more expressive open fruit.” Readers should watch out for a video that I made with Badenhorst during my visit that will hopefully give you a flavor of the man. His entry-level Secateurs range has been hugely successful in both domestic and overseas markets, here the 2016 Syrah is a standout. His 2017 Golden Slopes Chenin Blanc from granite soils and an excellent Cinsault from the Ramnasgras vineyard smote me. The Shiraz-dominated 2016 Family Red Blend is excellent and I quite enjoyed the chalky, almost austere finish.
2017 Cinsault Ramnasgras
Color: Red

Score: 92.0

Drinking window: 2020 - 2030

Tasting notes: The 2017 Ramnasgras Cinsault comes from vines planted in 1964, the most productive vineyard yet still producing just 3,500 bottles. It includes some 60% whole-bunch fruit and was matured in 4,000-liter foudres. The winsome bouquet features red currant, cranberry and wild rose petal scents, very well defined and pure - oddly enough, almost Burgundy-like in style. The palate is well balanced with fresh red cherry and cranberry fruit and hints of pomegranate, quite mineral-driven and again, very Burgundy-like on the poised finish. This is very promising. 

Producer Commentary:
It is always a pleasure to visit the irascible Adi Badenhorst at Kalmoesfontein, his farm in Swartland. There is something a bit chaotic about the place with demijohns scattered here and there. Badenhorst developed a wonderful infused vermouth that has been a great success. I remember tasting the assorted glass demijohns where he was experimenting with various botanical infusions. Of course, Badenhorst was a pivotal figure in the Swartland Revolution and remains one of its most familiar (hirsute) faces. With his manner so relaxed he might as well be lying down, not to mention what sometimes feels like an “anything goes” approach to winemaking, he is easy to underestimate but there is a sharp brain at work here and a talented winemaker. His joie-de-vivre is matched by business acumen that enabled him to transform and expand his winery. “We bought the adjacent farm and also lease another 18 hectares,” he explained. “We have 41 hectares of old vines and the oldest was planted in 1952. So, now we have 70 hectares in total.” I asked him about the 2016 vintage. “The vintage has good acidity, making tighter wines, whilst the 2017 has slightly lower acidity and more expressive open fruit.” Readers should watch out for a video that I made with Badenhorst during my visit that will hopefully give you a flavor of the man. His entry-level Secateurs range has been hugely successful in both domestic and overseas markets, here the 2016 Syrah is a standout. His 2017 Golden Slopes Chenin Blanc from granite soils and an excellent Cinsault from the Ramnasgras vineyard smote me. The Shiraz-dominated 2016 Family Red Blend is excellent and I quite enjoyed the chalky, almost austere finish.
2018 Chenin Blanc Secateurs
Color: White

Score: 90.0

Drinking window: 2018 - 2023

Tasting notes: The 2018 Secateurs Chenin Blanc, which Adi described as "the most fun wine to make," comes from 28 different parcels, of which 17 are over 50 years old, on granite soils in the Paardeberg Mountains. It has a well defined bouquet of lemon curd and light white flower aromas. It is slightly viscous on the entry, very pure with fine acidity, and honeyed toward the finish, to the point where it could almost be a dessert wine (I could imagine this pairing wonderfully with a hard cheese ). Given the price point, this is brilliant Chenin Blanc and an outstanding value. [Readers should note that there are three bottlings of this wine - this is the main one.] 

Producer Commentary:
It is always a pleasure to visit the irascible Adi Badenhorst at Kalmoesfontein, his farm in Swartland. There is something a bit chaotic about the place with demijohns scattered here and there. Badenhorst developed a wonderful infused vermouth that has been a great success. I remember tasting the assorted glass demijohns where he was experimenting with various botanical infusions. Of course, Badenhorst was a pivotal figure in the Swartland Revolution and remains one of its most familiar (hirsute) faces. With his manner so relaxed he might as well be lying down, not to mention what sometimes feels like an “anything goes” approach to winemaking, he is easy to underestimate but there is a sharp brain at work here and a talented winemaker. His joie-de-vivre is matched by business acumen that enabled him to transform and expand his winery. “We bought the adjacent farm and also lease another 18 hectares,” he explained. “We have 41 hectares of old vines and the oldest was planted in 1952. So, now we have 70 hectares in total.” I asked him about the 2016 vintage. “The vintage has good acidity, making tighter wines, whilst the 2017 has slightly lower acidity and more expressive open fruit.” Readers should watch out for a video that I made with Badenhorst during my visit that will hopefully give you a flavor of the man. His entry-level Secateurs range has been hugely successful in both domestic and overseas markets, here the 2016 Syrah is a standout. His 2017 Golden Slopes Chenin Blanc from granite soils and an excellent Cinsault from the Ramnasgras vineyard smote me. The Shiraz-dominated 2016 Family Red Blend is excellent and I quite enjoyed the chalky, almost austere finish.
2017 Chenin Blanc Golden Slopes
Color: White

Score: 92.0

Drinking window: 2019 - 2028

Tasting notes: The 2017 Golden Slopes Chenin Blanc comes from yellow granite soils at slightly higher elevation than Adi’s other Chenin and with a higher clay content. It has an intriguing, complex bouquet of Japanese yuzu, quince, lemon thyme and lemongrass, a little spicier than its fellow Chenin Blanc. The taut, linear palate is well balanced, with a fine bead of acidity and a lovely sappiness toward the vivid finish. Excellent. 

Producer Commentary:
It is always a pleasure to visit the irascible Adi Badenhorst at Kalmoesfontein, his farm in Swartland. There is something a bit chaotic about the place with demijohns scattered here and there. Badenhorst developed a wonderful infused vermouth that has been a great success. I remember tasting the assorted glass demijohns where he was experimenting with various botanical infusions. Of course, Badenhorst was a pivotal figure in the Swartland Revolution and remains one of its most familiar (hirsute) faces. With his manner so relaxed he might as well be lying down, not to mention what sometimes feels like an “anything goes” approach to winemaking, he is easy to underestimate but there is a sharp brain at work here and a talented winemaker. His joie-de-vivre is matched by business acumen that enabled him to transform and expand his winery. “We bought the adjacent farm and also lease another 18 hectares,” he explained. “We have 41 hectares of old vines and the oldest was planted in 1952. So, now we have 70 hectares in total.” I asked him about the 2016 vintage. “The vintage has good acidity, making tighter wines, whilst the 2017 has slightly lower acidity and more expressive open fruit.” Readers should watch out for a video that I made with Badenhorst during my visit that will hopefully give you a flavor of the man. His entry-level Secateurs range has been hugely successful in both domestic and overseas markets, here the 2016 Syrah is a standout. His 2017 Golden Slopes Chenin Blanc from granite soils and an excellent Cinsault from the Ramnasgras vineyard smote me. The Shiraz-dominated 2016 Family Red Blend is excellent and I quite enjoyed the chalky, almost austere finish.
2017 Muscat De Frontignan Geelkapel
Color: White

Score: 89.0

Drinking window: 2018 - 2025

Tasting notes: The 2017 Geelkapel Muscat de Frontignan comes from a single vineyard and is fermented on the skins for 10 days and finished in cask. It has a distinctive bouquet of lychee, orange zest, chamomile and, of course, a touch of Muscat. The palate is medium-bodied with a waxy texture, and a fine bead of acidity cuts through the waxy-textured yellow fruit, sour lemon, grapefruit and lemongrass. Not incredibly long, but very well defined and fresh. Drink now and over the next six to eight years. 

Producer Commentary:
It is always a pleasure to visit the irascible Adi Badenhorst at Kalmoesfontein, his farm in Swartland. There is something a bit chaotic about the place with demijohns scattered here and there. Badenhorst developed a wonderful infused vermouth that has been a great success. I remember tasting the assorted glass demijohns where he was experimenting with various botanical infusions. Of course, Badenhorst was a pivotal figure in the Swartland Revolution and remains one of its most familiar (hirsute) faces. With his manner so relaxed he might as well be lying down, not to mention what sometimes feels like an “anything goes” approach to winemaking, he is easy to underestimate but there is a sharp brain at work here and a talented winemaker. His joie-de-vivre is matched by business acumen that enabled him to transform and expand his winery. “We bought the adjacent farm and also lease another 18 hectares,” he explained. “We have 41 hectares of old vines and the oldest was planted in 1952. So, now we have 70 hectares in total.” I asked him about the 2016 vintage. “The vintage has good acidity, making tighter wines, whilst the 2017 has slightly lower acidity and more expressive open fruit.” Readers should watch out for a video that I made with Badenhorst during my visit that will hopefully give you a flavor of the man. His entry-level Secateurs range has been hugely successful in both domestic and overseas markets, here the 2016 Syrah is a standout. His 2017 Golden Slopes Chenin Blanc from granite soils and an excellent Cinsault from the Ramnasgras vineyard smote me. The Shiraz-dominated 2016 Family Red Blend is excellent and I quite enjoyed the chalky, almost austere finish.
2017 White Blend Kalmoesfontein
Color: White

Score: 90.0

Drinking window: 2018 - 2027

Tasting notes: The 2017 Kalmoesfontein White Blend is a crisp, linear, slight leaner style of white compared to Adi Badenhorst’s Chenin Blancs. This demands a little coaxing from the glass and displays a slight resinous aspect. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, fresh and vibrant, offering a touch of honeysuckle and dried quince toward the finish. It is a more "honed in" style of White Blend from Adi this year, but it works well. 

Producer Commentary:
It is always a pleasure to visit the irascible Adi Badenhorst at Kalmoesfontein, his farm in Swartland. There is something a bit chaotic about the place with demijohns scattered here and there. Badenhorst developed a wonderful infused vermouth that has been a great success. I remember tasting the assorted glass demijohns where he was experimenting with various botanical infusions. Of course, Badenhorst was a pivotal figure in the Swartland Revolution and remains one of its most familiar (hirsute) faces. With his manner so relaxed he might as well be lying down, not to mention what sometimes feels like an “anything goes” approach to winemaking, he is easy to underestimate but there is a sharp brain at work here and a talented winemaker. His joie-de-vivre is matched by business acumen that enabled him to transform and expand his winery. “We bought the adjacent farm and also lease another 18 hectares,” he explained. “We have 41 hectares of old vines and the oldest was planted in 1952. So, now we have 70 hectares in total.” I asked him about the 2016 vintage. “The vintage has good acidity, making tighter wines, whilst the 2017 has slightly lower acidity and more expressive open fruit.” Readers should watch out for a video that I made with Badenhorst during my visit that will hopefully give you a flavor of the man. His entry-level Secateurs range has been hugely successful in both domestic and overseas markets, here the 2016 Syrah is a standout. His 2017 Golden Slopes Chenin Blanc from granite soils and an excellent Cinsault from the Ramnasgras vineyard smote me. The Shiraz-dominated 2016 Family Red Blend is excellent and I quite enjoyed the chalky, almost austere finish.
2016 Red Blend Family
Color: Red

Score: 91.0

Drinking window: 2020 - 2032

Tasting notes: The 2016 Family Red Blend is a blend of 71% Shiraz, 13% Grenache, 11% Cinsault and 5% Tinta Barocca. It has a very pure bouquet, quite floral and intense, with dark cherries, black plum, warm gravel and light truffle scents, the 80% whole bunch completely disguised. The palate is medium-bodied with quite grippy tannin. There is good backbone here, quite dense but well defined with a chalky, slight austere finish, partly because Adi now undertakes more aging in concrete. Give this a couple of years in bottle. 

Producer Commentary:
It is always a pleasure to visit the irascible Adi Badenhorst at Kalmoesfontein, his farm in Swartland. There is something a bit chaotic about the place with demijohns scattered here and there. Badenhorst developed a wonderful infused vermouth that has been a great success. I remember tasting the assorted glass demijohns where he was experimenting with various botanical infusions. Of course, Badenhorst was a pivotal figure in the Swartland Revolution and remains one of its most familiar (hirsute) faces. With his manner so relaxed he might as well be lying down, not to mention what sometimes feels like an “anything goes” approach to winemaking, he is easy to underestimate but there is a sharp brain at work here and a talented winemaker. His joie-de-vivre is matched by business acumen that enabled him to transform and expand his winery. “We bought the adjacent farm and also lease another 18 hectares,” he explained. “We have 41 hectares of old vines and the oldest was planted in 1952. So, now we have 70 hectares in total.” I asked him about the 2016 vintage. “The vintage has good acidity, making tighter wines, whilst the 2017 has slightly lower acidity and more expressive open fruit.” Readers should watch out for a video that I made with Badenhorst during my visit that will hopefully give you a flavor of the man. His entry-level Secateurs range has been hugely successful in both domestic and overseas markets, here the 2016 Syrah is a standout. His 2017 Golden Slopes Chenin Blanc from granite soils and an excellent Cinsault from the Ramnasgras vineyard smote me. The Shiraz-dominated 2016 Family Red Blend is excellent and I quite enjoyed the chalky, almost austere finish.

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