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Producer name: Kistler

Wines:

1996 Pinot Noir Camp Meeting Ridge Sonoma Coast
Color: Red

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Dark red-ruby. Aroma of raw crushed blackberries along with exotic suggestions of peach and apricot. Huge, mouthfilling and lush; extremely rich pinot noir with the sheer size of a grand cru Burgundy. Yet almost magically, this big boy retains a primary fruit quality, and sound acids give the finish excellent grip. Seamless and very long. This wine sappy, deep fruit held up remarkably well in the recorked bottle.

Producer Commentary:
Fans of Kistler chardonnay who are unable to track down this winery scarcer vineyard-designated bottlings should be happy to know that the more widely available Durell and Dutton Ranch chardonnays are both highly successful in '96. The chardonnays here typically get one-half to two-thirds new oak, though Steve Kistler emphasizes that the percentage of new wood varies by the wine and by the vintage. (Kistler Vineyards is one of the largest advance purchasers of Francois Freres barrels in California.) I was unable to taste the '97 chardonnays, as most of these wines were about to be bottled. Pinot noir is growing as a percentage of total Kistler production, but these wines are still extremely limited in the retail marketplace. The '96s I tasted are rare birds for California pinot noir: wines that offer mouthfilling richness and superb depth of flavor while retaining a sappy berry character and avoiding aromas and flavors of overripeness.
2009 Pinot Noir Occidental Station Cuvee Catherine
Color: Red

Score: 97.0

Drinking window: 2013 - 2021

Tasting notes: The 2009 Pinot Noir Occidental Station Cuvee Catherine is flat-out beautiful. All of the elements are in the right place in this majestic, towering Pinot. Layers of fruit emerge gracefully in a wine that seems to never end. The finest, silkiest of tannins frame the fruit through to the exceptional, sensual finish. This kaleidoscopic, marvelously complete wine is a stunning effort from Steve Kistler and his team. The wine continues to open up in the glass in a stunning display of class and elegance. I can hardly wait to own this extraordinary Pinot. 

Producer Commentary:
I was blown away by these wines from Steve Kistler, his partner Mark Bixler and winemaker Jason Kesner. Over the last few years Kistler has refined his approach, as he wasn't totally satisfied by the way some of his earlier wines had developed in bottle. Today Kistler is picking his Chardonnays at lower Brix levels, using less French oak (with no stirring of the lees) and keeping the wines in barrel for a shorter amount of time, all in an effort to preserve as much freshness as possible. The result is wines that are totally different in style from years past. The Pinots see a maximum 50% new oak barrels and that number will continue to trend downwards over the next few years. The 2009 harvest started around September 4th for both Chardonnay and Pinot. The 2009s were bottled in December 2010. Unfortunately, I was not able to taste the 2010s, as they had been bottled just prior to my visit. I will taste those wines in October, 2012. A frequent source of frustration among readers has been the lack of in-the-bottle reviews for Kistler wines. Beginning this year, all wines tasted from barrel will be subsequently reviewed from bottle as well. Readers who haven't tasted the Kistler wines in some time owe it to themselves to do so. These are some of the most thrilling wines being made in California today.
1999 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard Carneros
Color: White

Score: 94.5

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Fairly bright lemon-yellow color. Cool, musky aromas of wet stone, white flowers, dried fruits, truffle and vanillin oak. Very tightly wound today but has terrific density and flesh to buffer its firm acids. Strong sulfidey, hazelnutty complexity calls to mind a great white Burgundy. A chewy, brilliantly delineated wine with terrific verve and persistence.

Producer Commentary:
Steve Kistler, who told me that he advises his mailing-list customers to enjoy his chardonnays from most vintages within four to six years (in part because there's less free sulfur in his wines today), believes that 1999 has produced wines with longer aging potential. "In '96, '97 and '98 we had to pick late, at high sugars, to get thoroughly ripe flavors. But the '99 fruit ripened at lower sugar levels, and we benefitted from a long harvest. We got the best acids and pHs since 1995." Kistler is generally using less new oak these days: still up to 100% for the Hudson and Hyde wines but as little as 50% to 60% for the rest. And although Kistler believes that a certain amount of grape solids is needed in order for the native yeasts to function well, he has somewhat reduced the percentage of solids in recent years, to around 0.75%. Despite the fact that this winery now produces around 22,000 cases of chardonnay each year, Kistler is strictly hands-on when it comes to pressing the fruit, refusing to delegate this time-consuming but critical task to assistants. "And we're getting better at pressing cooler grapes," Kistler notes. The result of all these small improvements is that today's Kistler chardonnays are silkier and suaver than ever before, and are more likely to avoid the slight phenolic harshness that some wines have shown in past vintage.
2004 Chardonnay Kistler Estate Vineyard Sonoma Valley
Color: White

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Light gold. Slow-building pear, peach and nectarine aromas, with strong mineral and floral undertones. Subtle spice and smoke complicate fresh pear and pit fruit flavors; slowly unfolds to show more energetic citrus tones. Finishes precise and mineral-driven, with excellent length. "Decant this and make sure it's not too cold," Kistler advises.

Producer Commentary:
Steve Kistler believes that whole-cluster fermentation gives much more complexity to his wines and does not rack them until bottling. These nuanced, mineral-driven chardonnays do more than wink at Burgundy: they often outdo their Old World counterparts with their complex leesy character. "You're not going to find fruit-driven wines here," Kistler said. He advises drinking his chardonnays at about four to six years though he acknowledges that they can go further-"But at four to six you won't be disappointed." Kistler is very high on his 2004s, believing that they are among the strongest and liveliest sets of wine he has made to date. "They had very low pHs and the fermentations went slowly," he told me.
2009 Pinot Noir Occidental Station Cuvee Catherine Sonoma Coast
Color: Red

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: (made from fruit picked at 24 Brix): Dark ruby. Heady aromas of black raspberry, cola, star anise and candied rose, along with a vibrant mineral quality and a touch of smoke. Sharply delineated raspberry and cherry flavors show superb depth, with bright acidity giving lift and cut. This strikingly elegant, fresh pinot finishes with serious cling and persistent floral character.

Producer Commentary:
"A great vintage, for both pinot and chardonnay," is how Steve Kistler described 2009 to me. "We got full ripeness and a good quantity of fruit, healthy and fully mature at low Brix levels." By low Brix Kistler means somewhere in the 22 to 23 range. "It's completely possible to make intense, deeply flavored wines at those ripeness levels," he said, adding that he prefers brightness over sheer mass. Kistler added that all of his wines fermented to "bone dry" in 2009, noting that he never adds sugar, acids or enzymes to his wines. He told me that he especially likes the structure imparted by the Calera selection of pinot noir and the minerality achieved by the old Wente clones of chardonnay. He reiterated his feeling that the Dijon clones of both chardonnay and pinot noir don't suit his style as they tend to overcrop and overemphasize fruitiness.
2012 Chardonnay Stone Flat Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 92.0

Drinking window: 2015 - 2020

Tasting notes: The 2012 Chardonnay Stone Flat Vineyard emerges from a parcel right next to Durell, but the flavors are quite a bit brighter. Lemon oil, white flowers, pears and white pepper are all laced together in a very pretty, understated Chardonnay.

Producer Commentary:
It's fascinating to see how Kistler's 2012 have developed since I tasted them just before bottling. The 2012 Chardonnays seem to have become softer and more open, while the exact opposite has taken place with the Pinot Noirs, all of which are quite a bit firmer and more tannic. My sense is that the 2012 Chardonnays will offer their best drinking sooner rather than later, while the Pinots will reward at least medium-term aging. In other news, Jason Kesner has been promoted to Winemaker, another step in what appears to be a gradual transition as Steve Kistler hands off more day-to-day responsibility to Kesner.
2014 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast)
Color: Red

Score: 92.0

Drinking window: 2018 - 2024

Tasting notes: Kistler's 2014 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast) is a striking appellation-level wine. Sweet red cherry, tobacco, game, smoke, and licorice add aromatic underpinning. Delicate, supple and quite pretty, the Sonoma Coast Pinot hits all the right notes. Sweet floral and spice notes add lift through the pliant, open-knit finish. There is so much to like. 

Producer Commentary:
Kistler's 2015s are fabulous. Yields were down 25-30% across the board, which gives the wines notable textural richness and intensity. At the same time, acidities stayed high. The interplay of deep fruit and salivating acidity is the key attribute of these wines, and of the vintage more broadly. Two thousand fifteen is the first year in which some of the Pinot lots were done with whole clusters (on the Cuvée Natalie). In 2016, Kistler doubled the number of lots fermented with stems. The bottled 2014s are consistent with how they showed from tank prior to bottling. Readers will not want to miss the 2014 Pinots, as they are fabulous. The 2014 Chardonnays are attractive, but they are also a bit diffuse and not quite as focused as in the very best years. Yields were lower for Pinot Noir than Chardonnay, which may explain why the Pinots have an extra dimension of clarity.
2001 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvee Cathleen Russian River Valley
Color: White

Score: 95.5

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: (20 barrels made, from the "richest section" of Kistler Vineyard) Pale yellow. Bright, subtle aromas of lemon, truffle, flowers, nuts and minerals. Very rich and spicy, with penetrating fruit flavors of peach and nectarine. Large-scaled, tactile and still very young, with a strong underlying structure for aging. Finishes very long, chewy and stony. Along with the superlative 2000 version, also made entirely from Kistler Vineyard, an extremely strong release for this bottling.

Producer Commentary:
Steve Kistler describes 2001 as "a wonderful vintage where the natural yeasts and malolactic bacteria behaved themselves nicely.We were able to sulfur the wines by the first of the new year," he went on. The pHs are in the 3.3 to 3.4 range, as low as in 2000. The wines are delicious now but should last well. There are no blowsy wines, and they show clear differences of vineyard character. I'd suggest drinking them beginning in 2006."Kistler went on to note that his chardonnays have a lower percentage of solids in them than in the past. He's also keeping the musts a bit warmer for the first 48 hours, and he believes that this has helped the yeasts work better. Once again, Kistler showed me only a single 2001 pinot noir, albeit his most important bottling in terms of cases produced.
2000 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvee Cathleen Russian River Valley
Color: White

Score: 95.5

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Paler than usual for this wine, almost green-tinged. Puligny-like aromas of minerals, spring flowers and grilled nuts; little obvious sulfides here. Hugely rich and broad in the mouth, with great early sweetness. Consistent, rather backward wine, with terrific cut thanks to brisk lemony acidity and pronounced minerality. Very structured and very strong on the back end. This used to be a barrel selection, and thus to some extent less of a soil-driven wine than the vineyard-designated bottlings, but now it's made almost entirely from old Wente clones planted in the Kistler Vineyard, at an altitude of 1,500 to 1,800 feet.

Producer Commentary:
The wines here are finer than ever before, mostly avoiding the chewy, phenolic finishes that have long characterized these remarkably rich chardonnays. The level of solids in the wines is now down to 0.75%, according to Steve Kistler, who notes that "there's not a single lot of grapes that I don't press myself." In addition, Kistler is using less new oak today. The top wines in 1997 were 100% new oak, Kistler told me, but the 2000s are typically between 50% and 60%. Kistler described the 2000 vintage as resembling 1999 in that the wines are not overblown and possess good structure. In both years, he added, the flavors developed well at lower sugar levels. In contrast, the three previous vintages all produced chardonnays higher in alcohol.
2012 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvée Cathleen
Color: White

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 2015 - 2020

Tasting notes: The 2012 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvée Cathleen emerges from a parcel within Kistler Vineyard planted exclusively with old selections of the Wente clone that confer notable power and breadth, but allied to the intense minerality that is a signature of this site. A dash of new French oak is nicely integrated into the finish. The Cuvée Cathleen is the most structured of the Kistler Chardonnays.

Producer Commentary:
It's fascinating to see how Kistler's 2012 have developed since I tasted them just before bottling. The 2012 Chardonnays seem to have become softer and more open, while the exact opposite has taken place with the Pinot Noirs, all of which are quite a bit firmer and more tannic. My sense is that the 2012 Chardonnays will offer their best drinking sooner rather than later, while the Pinots will reward at least medium-term aging. In other news, Jason Kesner has been promoted to Winemaker, another step in what appears to be a gradual transition as Steve Kistler hands off more day-to-day responsibility to Kesner.
2011 Chardonnay Kistler Estate Vineyard Sonoma Valley
Color: White

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Pale chartreuse color. Spicy, sharply focused aromas of nectarine, orange zest, iodine and white flowers. Stains the palate with intense, mineral-laced citrus and pit fruit flavors, complemented by intense ginger and honeysuckle accents. Finishes stony and very long, with echoing florality and strong spicy bite.

Producer Commentary:
In Steve Kistler's view, "the biggest issue with 2011 was anxiety" as people waited and waited for the sun to come out and for things to warm up. "Having 70-degree afternoons in July, in California, makes you concerned, to say the least," he pointed out. That said, the vineyards that Kistler works with are on the cold side anyway, and as the wines here have moved decisively away from the opulent style of a decade ago he and co-owner Mark Bixler find that their '11s fit their model quite well. "Tension, texture and clarity" is the goal for their chardonnays, said Kistler. "If you could get your fruit ripe, which is a function of a lot of factors besides just heat, then elegant, balanced wines that have concentration were absolutely possible." Kistler, who has been making wines here since founding the winery in 1978, has embarked on a new venture called Occidental, which will produce pinot noir sourced from his vineyards on the Sonoma Coast in a new winery, near the town of Bodega. The first wines from this venture, which are being sold through the Kistler mailing list, are reviewed in this article as well, under the winery's name. He continues to oversee vineyard work and winemaking at Kistler and will be working with his daughters Catherine and Elizabeth at Occidental.
1995 Chardonnay Kistler Estate Vineyard Sonoma Valley
Color: White

Score: 92.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Complex aromas of lemon, coconut, charry oak and iodine. Expansive and mouthfilling, yet light on its feet. Not especially thick or sweet, but offers lovely texture and subtle intensity. Very long, suave aftertaste. Still very young.

Producer Commentary:
2015 Chardonnay Durell Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 92.5

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: The 2015 Chardonnay Durell Vineyard is one of the more phenolic, deep wines in the range. The personality of the Wente clone comes through loud and clear. Dried pear, mint, wild flowers and chamomile, along with the naturally low yields of this site afflicted with leaf roll virus, result in an oily, waxy Chardonnay built on texture, class and polish. 

Producer Commentary:
Kistler's 2015s are fabulous. Yields were down 25-30% across the board, which gives the wines notable textural richness and intensity. At the same time, acidities stayed high. The interplay of deep fruit and salivating acidity is the key attribute of these wines, and of the vintage more broadly. Two thousand fifteen is the first year in which some of the Pinot lots were done with whole clusters (on the Cuvée Natalie). In 2016, Kistler doubled the number of lots fermented with stems. The bottled 2014s are consistent with how they showed from tank prior to bottling. Readers will not want to miss the 2014 Pinots, as they are fabulous. The 2014 Chardonnays are attractive, but they are also a bit diffuse and not quite as focused as in the very best years. Yields were lower for Pinot Noir than Chardonnay, which may explain why the Pinots have an extra dimension of clarity.
2018 Chardonnay Durell Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 97.0

Drinking window: 2021 - 2028

Tasting notes: The 2018 Chardonnay Durell Vineyard is wonderfully perfumed and light on its feet. Tangerine oil, apricot, chamomile and yellow orchard fruit show a brighter side of Chardonnay, and yet the Durell remains striking in its resonance and vibrancy. A bit of youthful austerity needs to soften, so I would cellar the 2018 for another year or two. It is fascinating to taste the Stone Flat and the Durell together. One of the differences between the two parcels is the choice of rootstocks. This portion of the vineyard employs 3309 rootstock.

Producer Commentary:
This is a terrific set of new releases from Kistler. The 2018 Chardonnays are the most consistently brilliant wines I have ever tasted here. The long, cool growing season gave winemaker Jason Kesner the opportunity to make wines that express the character of site, and that's exactly what comes through. The 2018 Chardonnays are gorgeous wines through which to explore the wide range of vineyards in the Kistler range. I found the 2018 Pinots pretty tight and far less forthcoming than the Chardonnays. These days, Kesner picks more on acidity than fruit ripeness. Consequently, the wines have moved towards a fresher style, and that is amplified in 2018. The wines spent eleven months in barrel (about 40% new wood), followed by three months in tank prior to being bottled.
2011 Chardonnay Stone Flat Vineyard Sonoma Coast
Color: White

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Greenish gold. Precise, intense aromas of lemon pith, iodine, white flowers and dusty minerals. Densely packed and youthfully tight, with penetrating citrus fruit and mineral flavors complicated by a subtle touch of buttered toast. Finishes tight and brisk, with admirable clarity and stony persistence.

Producer Commentary:
In Steve Kistler's view, "the biggest issue with 2011 was anxiety" as people waited and waited for the sun to come out and for things to warm up. "Having 70-degree afternoons in July, in California, makes you concerned, to say the least," he pointed out. That said, the vineyards that Kistler works with are on the cold side anyway, and as the wines here have moved decisively away from the opulent style of a decade ago he and co-owner Mark Bixler find that their '11s fit their model quite well. "Tension, texture and clarity" is the goal for their chardonnays, said Kistler. "If you could get your fruit ripe, which is a function of a lot of factors besides just heat, then elegant, balanced wines that have concentration were absolutely possible." Kistler, who has been making wines here since founding the winery in 1978, has embarked on a new venture called Occidental, which will produce pinot noir sourced from his vineyards on the Sonoma Coast in a new winery, near the town of Bodega. The first wines from this venture, which are being sold through the Kistler mailing list, are reviewed in this article as well, under the winery's name. He continues to oversee vineyard work and winemaking at Kistler and will be working with his daughters Catherine and Elizabeth at Occidental.
2011 Chardonnay Durell Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 2014 - 2021

Tasting notes: One of the juicier, more immediate wines in the range, the 2011 Chardonnay Durell Vineyard is supple and juicy throughout. Precision and sensuality are the name of the game. Lemon, jasmine and green pears come alive beautifully in a wine that balances tension and generosity with impeccable grace. 

Producer Commentary:
It is always a pleasure to visit with Steve Kistler and his partner Mark Bixler. The 2011s and 2010s are excellent across the board, although today, I have a preference for the 2011s. Vintage 2011 is shaping up beautifully, for both the Chardonnays and Pinots. As was the case throughout the region, the season was cool and slow to develop. The 2011s were picked at lower sugars than is the norm here, but very much in keeping with the personality of the year. Steve Kistler commented that a poor set in 2011 resulted in the lowest crop loads here in years. Like a lot of his colleagues, Kistler noted that the experiences of 2010 had a huge positive impact in how he responded to similar challenges in 2011. The 2010 Chardonnays are beautiful across the board. Although solid, the 2010 Pinots aren't quite at the level of the superb 2009s and I expect, ultimately, the 2011s. It was a tough vintage for the Pinots. Yields were mercilessly low. Sadly, there is no Cuvee Elizabeth, as the little fruit that came in went into the Kistler Vineyard bottling.
2016 Chardonnay Durell Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 2019 - 2026

Tasting notes: The 2016 Chardonnay Durell Vineyard offers lovely brightness and a distinctly citrus-driven and floral profile to match its airy, weightless personality. A wine of total grace and finesse, the Durell is positively brilliant and refined today.

Producer Commentary:
There is plenty to like in this range of 2016s. Steve Kistler is now fully out from the winery he founded in 1978. My distinct impression is that this will prove to be a very positive development for all parties. Kistler has moved on to Occidental, where he is making wines in a very different style than he did here. At the same time, Jason Kesner, Kistler's successor, has the freedom to update these wines and take them to the next level, which is, frankly, something that is needed after many years of being somewhat stuck stylistically. For example, I have long felt the wines, the Chardonnays in particular, could be more differentiated. Hopefully that is something that will come in time. As for the 2016s, they are all attractive wines that will drink well with minimal cellaring.
2013 Chardonnay Durell Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 2016 - 2021

Tasting notes: The 2013 Chardonnay Durell Vineyard is marked by a real sense of phenolic weight and overall structure. Apricot pit, earthiness, orange peel and almond blossom through to the creamy finish. In this range, the Durrell is decidedly bold and virile in style.

Producer Commentary:
I tasted all of Kistler's 2013s in October 2014, shortly prior to bottling. According to Steve Kistler, the 2013 harvest was two weeks earlier than it was in 2012, which is pretty typical across Sonoma. I found the 2013s to have considerable energy and tension. It will be interesting to see how that translates once the wines have settled down in bottle.
2012 Chardonnay Durell Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 92.0

Drinking window: 2015 - 2019

Tasting notes: The 2012 Chardonnay Durell Vineyard is one of the most open and accessible of Kistler's vineyard-designate Chardonnays. Orange peel, hazelnut, smoke, mint and anise blossom in the glass. There is lovely resonance and richness here, but all in the mid-weight, open style of the year.

Producer Commentary:
It's fascinating to see how Kistler's 2012 have developed since I tasted them just before bottling. The 2012 Chardonnays seem to have become softer and more open, while the exact opposite has taken place with the Pinot Noirs, all of which are quite a bit firmer and more tannic. My sense is that the 2012 Chardonnays will offer their best drinking sooner rather than later, while the Pinots will reward at least medium-term aging. In other news, Jason Kesner has been promoted to Winemaker, another step in what appears to be a gradual transition as Steve Kistler hands off more day-to-day responsibility to Kesner.
2010 Chardonnay Durell Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 2013 - 2018

Tasting notes: The 2010 Chardonnay Durell Vineyard comes across as quite creamy, especially right after the McCrea, which is a more delicate wine. Hints of tropical fruit, white flowers, mint and passion fruit all take shape in the glass. A seamless, textured wine, the 2010 stands out for its depth and generosity. The resonant finish makes it hard to resist a second taste. 

Producer Commentary:
It is always a pleasure to visit with Steve Kistler and his partner Mark Bixler. The 2011s and 2010s are excellent across the board, although today, I have a preference for the 2011s. Vintage 2011 is shaping up beautifully, for both the Chardonnays and Pinots. As was the case throughout the region, the season was cool and slow to develop. The 2011s were picked at lower sugars than is the norm here, but very much in keeping with the personality of the year. Steve Kistler commented that a poor set in 2011 resulted in the lowest crop loads here in years. Like a lot of his colleagues, Kistler noted that the experiences of 2010 had a huge positive impact in how he responded to similar challenges in 2011. The 2010 Chardonnays are beautiful across the board. Although solid, the 2010 Pinots aren't quite at the level of the superb 2009s and I expect, ultimately, the 2011s. It was a tough vintage for the Pinots. Yields were mercilessly low. Sadly, there is no Cuvee Elizabeth, as the little fruit that came in went into the Kistler Vineyard bottling.
2014 Chardonnay Durell Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 2017 - 2022

Tasting notes: The 2014 Chardonnay Durell Vineyard offers a compelling interplay of rich fruit, phenolics and brightness, which gives it lovely completeness. Apricot, baked apple, chamomile and a kiss of French oak add to the wine's creamy, inviting personality. All the elements fall into place effortlessly. 

Producer Commentary:
Kistler's 2015s are fabulous. Yields were down 25-30% across the board, which gives the wines notable textural richness and intensity. At the same time, acidities stayed high. The interplay of deep fruit and salivating acidity is the key attribute of these wines, and of the vintage more broadly. Two thousand fifteen is the first year in which some of the Pinot lots were done with whole clusters (on the Cuvée Natalie). In 2016, Kistler doubled the number of lots fermented with stems. The bottled 2014s are consistent with how they showed from tank prior to bottling. Readers will not want to miss the 2014 Pinots, as they are fabulous. The 2014 Chardonnays are attractive, but they are also a bit diffuse and not quite as focused as in the very best years. Yields were lower for Pinot Noir than Chardonnay, which may explain why the Pinots have an extra dimension of clarity.
2017 Chardonnay Durell Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 2019 - 2027

Tasting notes: The 2017 Chardonnay Durell Vineyard is creamy, ample and luscious, all while retaining a distinct element of salinity that give freshness and also a sense of direction. Lemon oil, yellow orchard fruit, white flowers and mint add brightness to a complete and wonderfully alluring Chardonnay that dazzles. In 2017, the Durrell is a wine of real distinction and class. 

Producer Commentary:
Jason Kesner turned out a brilliant set of wines at Kistler in 2017. Yields were quite low because of poor weather during set. Kesner told me he was able to pick almost all his fruit - both Pinot and Chardonnay - before the Labor Day heat, which is rare. Perhaps more importantly, over the last few years, Kesner has moved picking dates up by three days on average, which is considerable, especially for Chardonnay. Today's Kistler wines clearly offer more freshness and nuance than in the past. The 2017s are some of the very finest and most consistent wines I have ever tasted here. Clearly, the wines carry considerable textural richness. and yet they are also distinct and highly expressive of site. The 2017s were all racked from barrel to tank just prior to the 2018 harvest, and bottled in November of that year.
2010 Chardonnay Durell Vineyard Sonoma Coast
Color: White

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Vivid yellow. A complex, highly perfumed bouquet evokes poached pear, melon, ginger and jasmine, with a spicy quality adding lift. Plump but juicy and focused, offering intense candied citrus and orchard fruit flavors and a sexy floral quality. Closes on a sappy note, with excellent clarity, length and lingering spiciness.

Producer Commentary:
Aside from the obvious "stressful growing season and short crop," Steve Kistler is "very pleased with how 2010 has ultimately turned out" for both chardonnay and pinot noir. The coolness of the season encouraged the naturally low pHs and low sugars ("but with full ripeness") that Kistler seeks. According to Kistler, "They had the concentration to quickly and efficiently absorb the oak" and show a spiciness that makes for plenty of immediate appeal. The pinots "have a taut quality" that bodes well for aging, he says, adding that the late season heat spikes were mostly beneficial "if your vineyards were in cold, windy or high altitude spots and you hadn't gone too far with canopy thinning."
2009 Chardonnay Durell Vineyard Sonoma Coast
Color: White

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Vivid yellow-gold. Powerful, lees-accented aromas of poached pear, melon and honey, with iodine and ginger nuances adding vivacity. Weighty and palate-coating but surprisingly energetic, offering intense citrus pith and orchard fruit flavors complicated by suave floral and mineral notes. Closes firm and dry, leaving zesty mineral and spice notes behind.

Producer Commentary:
"A great vintage, for both pinot and chardonnay," is how Steve Kistler described 2009 to me. "We got full ripeness and a good quantity of fruit, healthy and fully mature at low Brix levels." By low Brix Kistler means somewhere in the 22 to 23 range. "It's completely possible to make intense, deeply flavored wines at those ripeness levels," he said, adding that he prefers brightness over sheer mass. Kistler added that all of his wines fermented to "bone dry" in 2009, noting that he never adds sugar, acids or enzymes to his wines. He told me that he especially likes the structure imparted by the Calera selection of pinot noir and the minerality achieved by the old Wente clones of chardonnay. He reiterated his feeling that the Dijon clones of both chardonnay and pinot noir don't suit his style as they tend to overcrop and overemphasize fruitiness.
2004 Chardonnay Durell Vineyard Sonoma Coast
Color: White

Score: 91.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Yellow-gold. Open-knit and ripe, with a full-blown bouquet of yellow plum, candied pear and cling peach. Broad and rich, showing an array of ripe orchard and pit fruits, with a gentle hint of acidity giving lift. Suave and velvety on the impressively long and deep finish.

Producer Commentary:
Steve Kistler believes that whole-cluster fermentation gives much more complexity to his wines and does not rack them until bottling. These nuanced, mineral-driven chardonnays do more than wink at Burgundy: they often outdo their Old World counterparts with their complex leesy character. "You're not going to find fruit-driven wines here," Kistler said. He advises drinking his chardonnays at about four to six years though he acknowledges that they can go further-"But at four to six you won't be disappointed." Kistler is very high on his 2004s, believing that they are among the strongest and liveliest sets of wine he has made to date. "They had very low pHs and the fermentations went slowly," he told me.
1996 Chardonnay Durell Vineyard Sonoma Coast
Color: White

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Brighter yellow-gold. Very complex, Burgundian aromas of roasted nuts, minerals, lemon candy, smoke and faint sulfides; conveys a strong impression of soil character. Very rich but unevolved in the mouth, with plenty of acidity. Slightly aggressive on the finish today, perhaps because there a bit less finishing flesh, but long and subtle. The yield here was about three tons per acre, vs. two for the McCrea.

Producer Commentary:
Fans of Kistler chardonnay who are unable to track down this winery scarcer vineyard-designated bottlings should be happy to know that the more widely available Durell and Dutton Ranch chardonnays are both highly successful in '96. The chardonnays here typically get one-half to two-thirds new oak, though Steve Kistler emphasizes that the percentage of new wood varies by the wine and by the vintage. (Kistler Vineyards is one of the largest advance purchasers of Francois Freres barrels in California.) I was unable to taste the '97 chardonnays, as most of these wines were about to be bottled. Pinot noir is growing as a percentage of total Kistler production, but these wines are still extremely limited in the retail marketplace. The '96s I tasted are rare birds for California pinot noir: wines that offer mouthfilling richness and superb depth of flavor while retaining a sappy berry character and avoiding aromas and flavors of overripeness.
2000 Chardonnay Durell Vineyard Sonoma Coast
Color: White

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Slightly paler color than the Hyde. More fruit-driven aromas of apricot, peach, grilled nuts and light sulfides. Hugely fruity to the point of painful; round, sweet flavors of dried and fresh orchard fruits and grapefruit. Very smooth in the middle, with just a tad less complexity of flavor than the Hyde. A bit chewier on the finish.

Producer Commentary:
The wines here are finer than ever before, mostly avoiding the chewy, phenolic finishes that have long characterized these remarkably rich chardonnays. The level of solids in the wines is now down to 0.75%, according to Steve Kistler, who notes that "there's not a single lot of grapes that I don't press myself." In addition, Kistler is using less new oak today. The top wines in 1997 were 100% new oak, Kistler told me, but the 2000s are typically between 50% and 60%. Kistler described the 2000 vintage as resembling 1999 in that the wines are not overblown and possess good structure. In both years, he added, the flavors developed well at lower sugar levels. In contrast, the three previous vintages all produced chardonnays higher in alcohol.
2007 Chardonnay Durell Vineyard Sonoma Coast
Color: White

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Vivid yellow. Pungent scents of citrus pith, pear, sweet butter, toasted bread and smoky minerality. Smooth on entry, then tighter, stonier and less showy in the middle palate, with terrific spicy intensity to its citrus and floral flavors. Builds slowly and impressively, finishing with palate-staining, mineral-laced flavors of orange and bitter quinine. This intriguing wine smells like a Meursault and tastes like a Chablis. Kistler told me that its malo took forever to finish.

Producer Commentary:
Steve Kistler told me that all of his chardonnays clock in at under 3.4 pH in 2007, and that this is a vintage "that's all about freshness and energy." He also thinks that they will enjoy a slow and positive evolution "because of their dry minerality, which makes them a little stand-offish at this early stage but bodes well for aging." Kistler uses 50% new barriques across the board for all his chardonnays and noted that of course drinkers will notice the oak influence if they consume the wines in the first couple of years after they're bottled. "We're not making wines that are going to show their true hand straight out of the gate," he said. "Some bottle age is necessary for the fermentation character to recede and the terroir to come forward."
2011 Chardonnay Durell Vineyard Sonoma Coast
Color: White

Score: 92.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Bright gold. Smoky, iodine-accented melon and pear scents, with an exotic floral quality building with air. Lush and weighty on the palate, with intense mineral notes complementing ripe orchard and pit fruit flavors. An anise element emerges on the back half and carries through a long, juicy, mineral-tinged finish. Distinctly powerful for the vintage, with the structure to age.

Producer Commentary:
In Steve Kistler's view, "the biggest issue with 2011 was anxiety" as people waited and waited for the sun to come out and for things to warm up."Having 70-degree afternoons in July, in California, makes you concerned, to say the least," he pointed out.That said, the vineyards that Kistler works with are on the cold side anyway, and as the wines here have moved decisively away from the opulent style of a decade ago he and co-owner Mark Bixler find that their '11s fit their model quite well."Tension, texture and clarity" is the goal for their chardonnays, said Kistler."If you could get your fruit ripe, which is a function of a lot of factors besides just heat, then elegant, balanced wines that have concentration were absolutely possible." Kistler, who has been making wines here since founding the winery in 1978, has embarked on a new venture called Occidental, which will produce pinot noir sourced from his vineyards on the Sonoma Coast in a new winery, near the town of Bodega. The first wines from this venture, which are being sold through the Kistler mailing list, are reviewed in this article as well, under the winery's name. He continues to oversee vineyard work and winemaking at Kistler and will be working with his daughters Catherine and Elizabeth at Occidental.
2002 Chardonnay Durell Vineyard Sonoma Coast
Color: White

Score: 91.5

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Bright, full yellow. Leesy aromas of crushed stone, baking spices, orange oil and charred oak, with a suggestion of light sulfides. Fatter on entry than the McCrea or Dutton Ranch bottlings, then big, rich and velvety in the middle palate, but with a firm acid spine. Not yet hugely complex but I like this wine's cooler flavors of pineapple, stone and minerals. Finishes with sneaky length and lingering notes of pineapple, menthol and crushed stone. This, too, seems quite young.

Producer Commentary:
I tasted the Kistler 2002s in early March with Steve Kistler's business partner Mark Bixler, who told me that the 2002 harvest lasted from September 5 through 24, with much of the fruit being picked at the beginning of that period."There were not big regional differences in quality in 2002," Bixler reported.This year I was able to taste two pinot noir offerings, and the Cuvee Catherine was among the best Kistler pinots I've tasted to date.Bixler noted that 70% of Kistler's wine now comes from their own vineyards, and that grapes Kistler purchases are bought by the acre, rather than by the ton.
2001 Chardonnay Durell Vineyard Sonoma Coast
Color: White

Score: 92.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Meursault-like aromas of oatmeal, lemon and spices. Offers a much sweeter impression on entry than the McCrea or Dutton, then more mid-palate fat. Continues with Meursault-like flavors of oatmeal, lemon and nuts. But this tactile, chewy wine, despite showing less obvious acidity, is also classically dry. Still a bit youthfully unforthcoming on the back end, but showing excellent length.

Producer Commentary:
Steve Kistler describes 2001 as "a wonderful vintage where the natural yeasts and malolactic bacteria behaved themselves nicely.We were able to sulfur the wines by the first of the new year," he went on. The pHs are in the 3.3 to 3.4 range, as low as in 2000. The wines are delicious now but should last well. There are no blowsy wines, and they show clear differences of vineyard character. I'd suggest drinking them beginning in 2006."Kistler went on to note that his chardonnays have a lower percentage of solids in them than in the past. He's also keeping the musts a bit warmer for the first 48 hours, and he believes that this has helped the yeasts work better. Once again, Kistler showed me only a single 2001 pinot noir, albeit his most important bottling in terms of cases produced.
1997 Chardonnay Durell Vineyard Sonoma Coast
Color: White

Score: 92.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Medium-deep straw color. Bright nose combines dried and citrus fruits with hints of clove and hazelnut. Fat and full but with a solid mineral spine. Sound acids give the flavors firm shape. Finishes spicy and long.

Producer Commentary:
In this earliest California harvest on record, says Steve Kistler, those growers who dropped crop in '97 were most successful. Even so, some of his vineyards produced yields of over three tons per acre, high for this winery, though a few still came in under two tons. Despite the fat and richness of the '97s, Kistler says they possess average to above-average acids. It's a vintage, he explains, that generally favors chardonnay and pinot from the Russian River Valley over vineyards farther to the west, while in '98 there's less difference between the two areas. This perfectionist winemaker was quite excited about the '99 crop of pinots, which he says ripened thoroughly at moderate sugar levels and retained very fresh acidity, which will enable them to age slowly. In '98, '97 and '96, says Kistler, very good wines were made, but the skins and flavors weren't completely ripe. I found the '97s to be silkier, and less phenolic, than any previous set of Kistler chardonnays.
2006 Chardonnay Durell Vineyard Sonoma Coast
Color: White

Score: 92.5

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Green-gold. Finely etched citrus and green apple aromas are impressively pure and incisive. Brisk lemongrass and lime flavors are complicated by dusty minerals and bitter pear skin. The most backward of this set right now, and a bit tough to assess. The finish repeats the citrus and mineral notes and lingers impressively. No way I'd touch this one any time soon.

Producer Commentary:
Steve Kistler works exclusively with traditional California clones for both chardonnay (such as Wente, Hyde and Mount Eden) and pinot noir (Pommard, Swan, Calera) because he believes that the Dijon clones planted in the warmer areas of the North Coast "give fruit opulence but at the expense of the minerality we like." Halfway through this year's tasting it struck me that one would be hard-pressed to find a set of more mineral-driven chardonnays anywhere today, even from Burgundy. Kistler attributes this characteristic to the aforementioned heirloom clones as well as to the fact that he works "in cool, stony vineyards that are moderated by wind and fog and have the right exposures." He told me that in 2006 all of his pinot noir was picked at, or under, 24o Brix, which means less than 13.5% potential alcohol.
2011 Chardonnay Dutton Ranch
Color: White

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 2014 - 2021

Tasting notes: The 2011 Chardonnay Dutton Ranch is another standout. I marvel at Kistler's ability to achieve density and depth, but without any sense of excess weight. At once rich and creamy, but also beautifully delineated, the Dutton Ranch is a model of elegance and precision. I can't wait to taste this from bottle. 

Producer Commentary:
It is always a pleasure to visit with Steve Kistler and his partner Mark Bixler. The 2011s and 2010s are excellent across the board, although today, I have a preference for the 2011s. Vintage 2011 is shaping up beautifully, for both the Chardonnays and Pinots. As was the case throughout the region, the season was cool and slow to develop. The 2011s were picked at lower sugars than is the norm here, but very much in keeping with the personality of the year. Steve Kistler commented that a poor set in 2011 resulted in the lowest crop loads here in years. Like a lot of his colleagues, Kistler noted that the experiences of 2010 had a huge positive impact in how he responded to similar challenges in 2011. The 2010 Chardonnays are beautiful across the board. Although solid, the 2010 Pinots aren't quite at the level of the superb 2009s and I expect, ultimately, the 2011s. It was a tough vintage for the Pinots. Yields were mercilessly low. Sadly, there is no Cuvee Elizabeth, as the little fruit that came in went into the Kistler Vineyard bottling.
2018 Chardonnay Dutton Ranch
Color: White

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 2020 - 2028

Tasting notes: The 2018 Chardonnay Dutton Ranch is one of the more easygoing wines in this range, and one of Chardonnays I would open first. Orchard fruit, mint and white flowers lead to a core of green apple and pear flavors. Textured and inviting, with soft curves, the Dutton is a terrific example of Russian River Chardonnay. 

Producer Commentary:
This is a terrific set of new releases from Kistler. The 2018 Chardonnays are the most consistently brilliant wines I have ever tasted here. The long, cool growing season gave winemaker Jason Kesner the opportunity to make wines that express the character of site, and that's exactly what comes through. The 2018 Chardonnays are gorgeous wines through which to explore the wide range of vineyards in the Kistler range. I found the 2018 Pinots pretty tight and far less forthcoming than the Chardonnays. These days, Kesner picks more on acidity than fruit ripeness. Consequently, the wines have moved towards a fresher style, and that is amplified in 2018. The wines spent eleven months in barrel (about 40% new wood), followed by three months in tank prior to being bottled.
2014 Chardonnay Dutton Ranch
Color: White

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 2017 - 2022

Tasting notes: The 2014 Chardonnay Dutton Ranch is quite powerful, yet retains its distinctly mid-weight structure and personality. Lemon confit, white flowers and mint are some of the signatures, but it is the wine's energy and drive that are most in evidence today.

Producer Commentary:
Kistler's 2015s are fabulous. Yields were down 25-30% across the board, which gives the wines notable textural richness and intensity. At the same time, acidities stayed high. The interplay of deep fruit and salivating acidity is the key attribute of these wines, and of the vintage more broadly. Two thousand fifteen is the first year in which some of the Pinot lots were done with whole clusters (on the Cuvée Natalie). In 2016, Kistler doubled the number of lots fermented with stems. The bottled 2014s are consistent with how they showed from tank prior to bottling. Readers will not want to miss the 2014 Pinots, as they are fabulous. The 2014 Chardonnays are attractive, but they are also a bit diffuse and not quite as focused as in the very best years. Yields were lower for Pinot Noir than Chardonnay, which may explain why the Pinots have an extra dimension of clarity.
2010 Chardonnay Dutton Ranch
Color: White

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 2013 - 2020

Tasting notes: Kistler's 2010 Chardonnay Dutton Ranch shows the distinct influence of these sandstone-rich soils in its weightless, effortless, perfumed personality. A model of true elegance and finesse, the Dutton Ranch is less obvious than some of the preceding wines. A kick of bracing salinity in the finish gives the 2010 its sense of energy and pure grace.

Producer Commentary:
It is always a pleasure to visit with Steve Kistler and his partner Mark Bixler. The 2011s and 2010s are excellent across the board, although today, I have a preference for the 2011s. Vintage 2011 is shaping up beautifully, for both the Chardonnays and Pinots. As was the case throughout the region, the season was cool and slow to develop. The 2011s were picked at lower sugars than is the norm here, but very much in keeping with the personality of the year. Steve Kistler commented that a poor set in 2011 resulted in the lowest crop loads here in years. Like a lot of his colleagues, Kistler noted that the experiences of 2010 had a huge positive impact in how he responded to similar challenges in 2011. The 2010 Chardonnays are beautiful across the board. Although solid, the 2010 Pinots aren't quite at the level of the superb 2009s and I expect, ultimately, the 2011s. It was a tough vintage for the Pinots. Yields were mercilessly low. Sadly, there is no Cuvee Elizabeth, as the little fruit that came in went into the Kistler Vineyard bottling.
2015 Chardonnay Dutton Ranch
Color: White

Score: 92.5

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: The 2015 Chardonnay Dutton Ranch is another deep, powerful wine. Earthy and savory undertones give the Dutton much of its distinctive personality. Bright and also quite reticent, the 2015 possesses terrific depth and intensity. It will be interesting to see how this wine develops and if it comes more powerful or more finessed after bottling. 

Producer Commentary:
Kistler's 2015s are fabulous. Yields were down 25-30% across the board, which gives the wines notable textural richness and intensity. At the same time, acidities stayed high. The interplay of deep fruit and salivating acidity is the key attribute of these wines, and of the vintage more broadly. Two thousand fifteen is the first year in which some of the Pinot lots were done with whole clusters (on the Cuvée Natalie). In 2016, Kistler doubled the number of lots fermented with stems. The bottled 2014s are consistent with how they showed from tank prior to bottling. Readers will not want to miss the 2014 Pinots, as they are fabulous. The 2014 Chardonnays are attractive, but they are also a bit diffuse and not quite as focused as in the very best years. Yields were lower for Pinot Noir than Chardonnay, which may explain why the Pinots have an extra dimension of clarity.
2016 Chardonnay Dutton Ranch
Color: White

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 2019 - 2024

Tasting notes: The 2016 Chardonnay Dutton Ranch is one of the more floral wines in the range. Supple and light on its feet, the 2016 offers plenty of lovely citrus and floral character, but doesn't quite have the richness of detail of the very finest wines in this lineup. In exchange, though, readers will find a forward, inviting Chardonnay that will drink well upon release. 

Producer Commentary:
There is plenty to like in this range of 2016s. Steve Kistler is now fully out from the winery he founded in 1978. My distinct impression is that this will prove to be a very positive development for all parties. Kistler has moved on to Occidental, where he is making wines in a very different style than he did here. At the same time, Jason Kesner, Kistler's successor, has the freedom to update these wines and take them to the next level, which is, frankly, something that is needed after many years of being somewhat stuck stylistically. For example, I have long felt the wines, the Chardonnays in particular, could be more differentiated. Hopefully that is something that will come in time. As for the 2016s, they are all attractive wines that will drink well with minimal cellaring.
2013 Chardonnay Dutton Ranch
Color: White

Score: 94.5

Drinking window: 2017 - 2023

Tasting notes: The 2013 Chardonnay Dutton Ranch is open, radiant and quite giving. Candied lemon, orange peel, spice, mint and floral notes meld together in a sensual, finely-knit Chardonnay long on depth and class. Deceptive in its first impression, the Dutton shows more structure and underlying salinity as it sits in the glass. Dutton was Kistler’s lowest yielding site in 2013. As a result, the wine is endowed with a real sense of textural richness.

Producer Commentary:
I tasted a wide range of wines during two recent visits with Steve Kistler, his business partner Mark Bixler, and winemaker Jason Kesner. In 2013, the Chardonnays are more consistent across the board than the Pinots. Yields were naturally high in 2013, largely the result of large berries, which seems to have affected the Pinots more than the Chardonnays. In 2014, it is the exact opposite. Lower yields and small berries helped create ideal conditions for making superb Pinot Noir. The 2014 Chardonnays are more variable than the Pinots today, but better wines suggest there is plenty of latent potential in some of these wines that is not obvious today.
2012 Chardonnay Dutton Ranch
Color: White

Score: 92.0

Drinking window: 2015 - 2019

Tasting notes: Kistler's 2012 Chardonnay Dutton Ranch isn't ready to show all of its cards just yet. Texturally soft and open-knit, the 2012 impresses for its lovely overall balance, but the elements haven't fully come together just yet. Bright veins of acidity give energy to pretty notes of orange peel, mint, wild flowers and hazelnuts. It will be interesting to see if the 2012 comes out of its shell, or if it remains a shy, introspective wine.

Producer Commentary:
It's fascinating to see how Kistler's 2012 have developed since I tasted them just before bottling. The 2012 Chardonnays seem to have become softer and more open, while the exact opposite has taken place with the Pinot Noirs, all of which are quite a bit firmer and more tannic. My sense is that the 2012 Chardonnays will offer their best drinking sooner rather than later, while the Pinots will reward at least medium-term aging. In other news, Jason Kesner has been promoted to Winemaker, another step in what appears to be a gradual transition as Steve Kistler hands off more day-to-day responsibility to Kesner.
2017 Chardonnay Dutton Ranch
Color: White

Score: 96.0

Drinking window: 2020 - 2029

Tasting notes: A highlight in this lineup, the 2017 Chardonnay Dutton Ranch is such an intriguing wine because of the way it is airy and lifted and yet also so deep in feel. Citrus peel, white flowers, mint and white pepper add striking aromatic top notes to this brilliant, vertically built Chardonnay. In 2017, the Dutton Ranch is all class. It is also one of my personal favorites.

Producer Commentary:
Jason Kesner turned out a brilliant set of wines at Kistler in 2017. Yields were quite low because of poor weather during set. Kesner told me he was able to pick almost all his fruit - both Pinot and Chardonnay - before the Labor Day heat, which is rare. Perhaps more importantly, over the last few years, Kesner has moved picking dates up by three days on average, which is considerable, especially for Chardonnay. Today's Kistler wines clearly offer more freshness and nuance than in the past. The 2017s are some of the very finest and most consistent wines I have ever tasted here. Clearly, the wines carry considerable textural richness. and yet they are also distinct and highly expressive of site. The 2017s were all racked from barrel to tank just prior to the 2018 harvest, and bottled in November of that year.
2011 Chardonnay Dutton Ranch Sonoma Coast
Color: White

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Vivid gold. Explosive, smoke-accented pear, melon and nectarine aromas are complemented by notes of honeysuckle and sweet butter. Chewy and broad on entry, then taut in the mid-palate, offering bitter pear skin and dried pit fruit flavors plus a hint of dusty minerals. Closes smoky and very long, with lingering spiciness and a hint of iodine. 

Producer Commentary:
In Steve Kistler's view, "the biggest issue with 2011 was anxiety" as people waited and waited for the sun to come out and for things to warm up."Having 70-degree afternoons in July, in California, makes you concerned, to say the least," he pointed out.That said, the vineyards that Kistler works with are on the cold side anyway, and as the wines here have moved decisively away from the opulent style of a decade ago he and co-owner Mark Bixler find that their '11s fit their model quite well."Tension, texture and clarity" is the goal for their chardonnays, said Kistler."If you could get your fruit ripe, which is a function of a lot of factors besides just heat, then elegant, balanced wines that have concentration were absolutely possible." Kistler, who has been making wines here since founding the winery in 1978, has embarked on a new venture called Occidental, which will produce pinot noir sourced from his vineyards on the Sonoma Coast in a new winery, near the town of Bodega. The first wines from this venture, which are being sold through the Kistler mailing list, are reviewed in this article as well, under the winery's name. He continues to oversee vineyard work and winemaking at Kistler and will be working with his daughters Catherine and Elizabeth at Occidental.
2005 Chardonnay Dutton Ranch Russian River Valley
Color: White

Score: 92.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Yellow-gold. Chalky citrus, quince and apple aromas are complicated by smoky lees, minerals and lemon pith. Bracing lime and pink grapefruit flavors gain weight with air, taking a turn to orange and tangerine. A firm, light-bodied chardonnay that offers intensity without excess weight, finishing with tangy mineral grip and great persistence. "On this soil, which is low in clay, this Wente clone is all about minerals," noted Kistler.

Producer Commentary:
According to Steve Kistler, "2005 was just a wonderful growing season, with no heat spikes, and the fermentations were textbook, with long malos extending into the spring." He noted that he has cut back on his lees-stirring regimen "to better preserve purity." When I mentioned the depth and intensity of his pinot noirs, he told me that "with the Calera clone, it's easy to get that character," adding that he routinely brings in low yields-for example, less than a ton an acre from Occidental Station in 2005.
1997 Chardonnay Dutton Ranch Russian River Valley
Color: White

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: High-pitched, complex nose combines dried fruits, lemon, light sulfides, tropical hints and menthol. Sweet, lush and broad; initially came across as a bit disjointed but became more harmonious as it opened in the glass. Really superb depth of fruit here.

Producer Commentary:
In this earliest California harvest on record, says Steve Kistler, those growers who dropped crop in '97 were most successful. Even so, some of his vineyards produced yields of over three tons per acre, high for this winery, though a few still came in under two tons. Despite the fat and richness of the '97s, Kistler says they possess average to above-average acids. It's a vintage, he explains, that generally favors chardonnay and pinot from the Russian River Valley over vineyards farther to the west, while in '98 there's less difference between the two areas. This perfectionist winemaker was quite excited about the '99 crop of pinots, which he says ripened thoroughly at moderate sugar levels and retained very fresh acidity, which will enable them to age slowly. In '98, '97 and '96, says Kistler, very good wines were made, but the skins and flavors weren't completely ripe. I found the '97s to be silkier, and less phenolic, than any previous set of Kistler chardonnays.
2008 Chardonnay Dutton Ranch Russian River Valley
Color: White

Score: 92.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Vivid gold. High-pitched, spicy aromas of lemon and lime, with deeper pear and melon qualities and a touch of toasty lees. Supple and creamy on entry, then more taut in the mid-palate, offering juicy melon and orchard fruit flavors firmed by a bitter citrus note. A kick of peppery spice adds cut to the long, impressively focused finish. This wine marks the 30th vintage for this bottling at Kistler.

Producer Commentary:
Steve Kistler and his assistant winemaker Jason Kesner described 2008 as "a vintage where there's very good concentration to the chardonnays but not too much." Kistler told me that his aim was "to get the wines to ferment to truly dry and to never use sugar. Sugar simplifies the fruit," he added, "and if you're trying to get real complexity, much less minerality and finesse, that's going to be very hard to achieve with added sugar." Speaking of finesse, I asked Kistler about the greater precision of his pinot noirs in recent vintages. He told me "it's all part of the fine-tuning to get to where we have expression but not too much weight." He explained that he had shortened the cold soaks of his pinot, "which seems to add lift to their aromas and has increased floral and spice character." Also recommended:
2004 Chardonnay Dutton Ranch Russian River Valley
Color: White

Score: 92.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Bright gold. Intense, sharply focused citrus and pear skin aromas are underscored by vivid minerality. Precise, elegant and expressive on the palate, with concentrated lemon and lime flavors and a delicate hint of smoky minerality. This fat-free wine has Chablis-like qualities, finishing with excellent lift and thrust.

Producer Commentary:
Steve Kistler believes that whole-cluster fermentation gives much more complexity to his wines and does not rack them until bottling. These nuanced, mineral-driven chardonnays do more than wink at Burgundy: they often outdo their Old World counterparts with their complex leesy character. "You're not going to find fruit-driven wines here," Kistler said. He advises drinking his chardonnays at about four to six years though he acknowledges that they can go further-"But at four to six you won't be disappointed." Kistler is very high on his 2004s, believing that they are among the strongest and liveliest sets of wine he has made to date. "They had very low pHs and the fermentations went slowly," he told me.
2006 Chardonnay Dutton Ranch Russian River Valley
Color: White

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Pale chartreuse color. Exotically perfumed aromas of lemon zest, pear skin, green almond and toasty lees. Vivid, tightly focused citrus and orchard fruit flavors are given depth by grilled nut and floral honey qualities, which lend roundness too. The lemony quality repeats on the impressively long, energetic finish. Give this youngster some age.

Producer Commentary:
Steve Kistler works exclusively with traditional California clones for both chardonnay (such as Wente, Hyde and Mount Eden) and pinot noir (Pommard, Swan, Calera) because he believes that the Dijon clones planted in the warmer areas of the North Coast "give fruit opulence but at the expense of the minerality we like." Halfway through this year's tasting it struck me that one would be hard-pressed to find a set of more mineral-driven chardonnays anywhere today, even from Burgundy. Kistler attributes this characteristic to the aforementioned heirloom clones as well as to the fact that he works "in cool, stony vineyards that are moderated by wind and fog and have the right exposures." He told me that in 2006 all of his pinot noir was picked at, or under, 24o Brix, which means less than 13.5% potential alcohol.
2000 Chardonnay Dutton Ranch Russian River Valley
Color: White

Score: 90.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Aromas of lemon custard, soft citrus fruits, nuts and light sulfides. Round and rich, with a suave texture but good rather than outstanding concentration. Soil-driven flavors.

Producer Commentary:
The wines here are finer than ever before, mostly avoiding the chewy, phenolic finishes that have long characterized these remarkably rich chardonnays. The level of solids in the wines is now down to 0.75%, according to Steve Kistler, who notes that "there's not a single lot of grapes that I don't press myself." In addition, Kistler is using less new oak today. The top wines in 1997 were 100% new oak, Kistler told me, but the 2000s are typically between 50% and 60%. Kistler described the 2000 vintage as resembling 1999 in that the wines are not overblown and possess good structure. In both years, he added, the flavors developed well at lower sugar levels. In contrast, the three previous vintages all produced chardonnays higher in alcohol.
2009 Chardonnay Dutton Ranch Russian River Valley
Color: White

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Bright yellow-gold. Intense, mineral-accented aromas of nectarine, pear, jasmine and lemon zest. Rich and broad but also sharply focused and lithe, with excellent clarity to its ripe orchard and citrus pith flavors. Notes of iodine and toasty lees add depth to the bright, linear, stony finish.

Producer Commentary:
"A great vintage, for both pinot and chardonnay," is how Steve Kistler described 2009 to me. "We got full ripeness and a good quantity of fruit, healthy and fully mature at low Brix levels." By low Brix Kistler means somewhere in the 22 to 23 range. "It's completely possible to make intense, deeply flavored wines at those ripeness levels," he said, adding that he prefers brightness over sheer mass. Kistler added that all of his wines fermented to "bone dry" in 2009, noting that he never adds sugar, acids or enzymes to his wines. He told me that he especially likes the structure imparted by the Calera selection of pinot noir and the minerality achieved by the old Wente clones of chardonnay. He reiterated his feeling that the Dijon clones of both chardonnay and pinot noir don't suit his style as they tend to overcrop and overemphasize fruitiness.
2007 Chardonnay Dutton Ranch Russian River Valley
Color: White

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Bright gold. Nervier and more mineral-driven than the McCrea, offering vivid lime and lemongrass aromas and notes of quinine, ginger and spicecake. Taut, focused and pure, with an impressive blend of depth and briskness to its citrus, pear and floral flavors. The finish repeats the pear and mineral notes and clings with excellent tenacity.

Producer Commentary:
Steve Kistler told me that all of his chardonnays clock in at under 3.4 pH in 2007, and that this is a vintage "that's all about freshness and energy." He also thinks that they will enjoy a slow and positive evolution "because of their dry minerality, which makes them a little stand-offish at this early stage but bodes well for aging." Kistler uses 50% new barriques across the board for all his chardonnays and noted that of course drinkers will notice the oak influence if they consume the wines in the first couple of years after they're bottled. "We're not making wines that are going to show their true hand straight out of the gate," he said. "Some bottle age is necessary for the fermentation character to recede and the terroir to come forward."
2010 Chardonnay Dutton Ranch Russian River Valley
Color: White

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Bright yellow-gold. Poached pear, floral honey and white flowers on the smoky highly perfumed nose, with an intense mineral overtone adding vivacity. Sappy, palate-staining orchard and citrus fruit flavors are braced by zesty minerality, which adds cut and focus. Clings with impressive tenacity on the finish, leaving behind notes of candied lemon and dusty minerals.

Producer Commentary:
Aside from the obvious "stressful growing season and short crop," Steve Kistler is "very pleased with how 2010 has ultimately turned out" for both chardonnay and pinot noir. The coolness of the season encouraged the naturally low pHs and low sugars ("but with full ripeness") that Kistler seeks. According to Kistler, "They had the concentration to quickly and efficiently absorb the oak" and show a spiciness that makes for plenty of immediate appeal. The pinots "have a taut quality" that bodes well for aging, he says, adding that the late season heat spikes were mostly beneficial "if your vineyards were in cold, windy or high altitude spots and you hadn't gone too far with canopy thinning."
2001 Chardonnay Dutton Ranch Russian River Valley
Color: White

Score: 91.5

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Lemon-yellow color. Riper aromas of mirabelle, wet stone, spearmint and roasted oak; a bit higher-toned than the McCrea. Then sweet, lush and seamless but nicely framed by firm acids; in a rounder style but classically dry. Showing more oak spice on the lingering finish.

Producer Commentary:
Steve Kistler describes 2001 as "a wonderful vintage where the natural yeasts and malolactic bacteria behaved themselves nicely.We were able to sulfur the wines by the first of the new year," he went on. The pHs are in the 3.3 to 3.4 range, as low as in 2000. The wines are delicious now but should last well. There are no blowsy wines, and they show clear differences of vineyard character. I'd suggest drinking them beginning in 2006."Kistler went on to note that his chardonnays have a lower percentage of solids in them than in the past. He's also keeping the musts a bit warmer for the first 48 hours, and he believes that this has helped the yeasts work better. Once again, Kistler showed me only a single 2001 pinot noir, albeit his most important bottling in terms of cases produced.
2001 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard Carneros
Color: White

Score: 95.5

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Bright lemon-yellow color. Orange peel, spices and mint on the rather restrained nose. Very fat, rich and dense but light on its feet. A strong peachy flavor is enlivened by nervy acidity. Intriguingly tactile chardonnay that's quite unevolved today but is extremely promising. My Burgundy light went on as soon as I put this in my mouth.

Producer Commentary:
Steve Kistler describes 2001 as "a wonderful vintage where the natural yeasts and malolactic bacteria behaved themselves nicely.We were able to sulfur the wines by the first of the new year," he went on. The pHs are in the 3.3 to 3.4 range, as low as in 2000. The wines are delicious now but should last well. There are no blowsy wines, and they show clear differences of vineyard character. I'd suggest drinking them beginning in 2006."Kistler went on to note that his chardonnays have a lower percentage of solids in them than in the past. He's also keeping the musts a bit warmer for the first 48 hours, and he believes that this has helped the yeasts work better. Once again, Kistler showed me only a single 2001 pinot noir, albeit his most important bottling in terms of cases produced.
1995 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard Carneros
Color: White

Score: 93.5

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Initially reticent nose opened to reveal vibrant aromas of orange zest, smoky oak, and iodiney soil tones. Ripely citric flavors are quite intense but slow to open. Juicy and very rich. Firm structure and lively acidity give this chardonnay terrific cut. Very long spicy, citric finish. Deserves at least a couple years of bottle aging.

Producer Commentary:
2000 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard Carneros
Color: White

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Medium bright yellow. Knockout nose combines soft citrus scents, lemon, mint, iodine, white flowers and minerals; as Burgundian as California chardonnay gets. Broad on entry, then wonderfully complex and structured; a real mouthful of lemon, hazelnut and stone. Not as extroverted as some recent vintages of this wine, and less sweet and showy today than the Hyde. But this powerful, very dry chardonnay offers great purity and subtle length.

Producer Commentary:
The wines here are finer than ever before, mostly avoiding the chewy, phenolic finishes that have long characterized these remarkably rich chardonnays. The level of solids in the wines is now down to 0.75%, according to Steve Kistler, who notes that "there's not a single lot of grapes that I don't press myself." In addition, Kistler is using less new oak today. The top wines in 1997 were 100% new oak, Kistler told me, but the 2000s are typically between 50% and 60%. Kistler described the 2000 vintage as resembling 1999 in that the wines are not overblown and possess good structure. In both years, he added, the flavors developed well at lower sugar levels. In contrast, the three previous vintages all produced chardonnays higher in alcohol.
1997 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard Carneros
Color: White

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Knockout nose combines apricot, lemon cream, iodine, clove, smoke and a leesy, buttery nuance. A step up in intensity and grip. Superb mineral structure gives this very rich wine an uncanny lightness. Very long and strong on the aftertaste.

Producer Commentary:
In this earliest California harvest on record, says Steve Kistler, those growers who dropped crop in '97 were most successful. Even so, some of his vineyards produced yields of over three tons per acre, high for this winery, though a few still came in under two tons. Despite the fat and richness of the '97s, Kistler says they possess average to above-average acids. It's a vintage, he explains, that generally favors chardonnay and pinot from the Russian River Valley over vineyards farther to the west, while in '98 there's less difference between the two areas. This perfectionist winemaker was quite excited about the '99 crop of pinots, which he says ripened thoroughly at moderate sugar levels and retained very fresh acidity, which will enable them to age slowly. In '98, '97 and '96, says Kistler, very good wines were made, but the skins and flavors weren't completely ripe. I found the '97s to be silkier, and less phenolic, than any previous set of Kistler chardonnays.
2002 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard Carneros
Color: White

Score: 94.5

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Pale-medium yellow. Crushed stone, ginger, iodine, grapefruit and orange zest on the high-pitched nose. Spicy, fine-grained and densely packed, with superb flavor intensity and outstanding lift. Impressively broad but also light on its feet. Very long, unflagging, uncompromisingly dry finish features juicy citrus flavors and minerals. Here's another Kistler chardonnay that could do some major damage in a blind tasting with top white Burgundies.

Producer Commentary:
I tasted the Kistler 2002s in early March with Steve Kistler's business partner Mark Bixler, who told me that the 2002 harvest lasted from September 5 through 24, with much of the fruit being picked at the beginning of that period."There were not big regional differences in quality in 2002," Bixler reported.This year I was able to taste two pinot noir offerings, and the Cuvee Catherine was among the best Kistler pinots I've tasted to date.Bixler noted that 70% of Kistler's wine now comes from their own vineyards, and that grapes Kistler purchases are bought by the acre, rather than by the ton.
2011 Pinot Noir Kistler Vineyard Sonoma Coast
Color: Red

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Bright violet color. Vibrant black raspberry, cherry, potpourri and Asian spices on the sharply focused nose. Juicy and sweet, with graceful, mineral-laced red and dark berry flavors, a hint of candied flowers and silky texture. Finishes very long, with smooth tannins and powerful lingering notes of candied flowers and spicecake.

Producer Commentary:
In Steve Kistler's view, "the biggest issue with 2011 was anxiety" as people waited and waited for the sun to come out and for things to warm up. "Having 70-degree afternoons in July, in California, makes you concerned, to say the least," he pointed out. That said, the vineyards that Kistler works with are on the cold side anyway, and as the wines here have moved decisively away from the opulent style of a decade ago he and co-owner Mark Bixler find that their '11s fit their model quite well. "Tension, texture and clarity" is the goal for their chardonnays, said Kistler. "If you could get your fruit ripe, which is a function of a lot of factors besides just heat, then elegant, balanced wines that have concentration were absolutely possible." Kistler, who has been making wines here since founding the winery in 1978, has embarked on a new venture called Occidental, which will produce pinot noir sourced from his vineyards on the Sonoma Coast in a new winery, near the town of Bodega. The first wines from this venture, which are being sold through the Kistler mailing list, are reviewed in this article as well, under the winery's name. He continues to oversee vineyard work and winemaking at Kistler and will be working with his daughters Catherine and Elizabeth at Occidental.
2011 Chardonnay Mccrea Vineyard Sonoma Mountain
Color: White

Score: 92.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Pale gold. High-pitched citrus fruit and floral scents are complicated by a zesty, chalky nuance. Dry, mineral-driven lemon and green apple flavors show a suave blend of power and finesse. The floral qualities come back strong on the finish, which lingers with excellent stony persistence. 

Producer Commentary:
In Steve Kistler's view, "the biggest issue with 2011 was anxiety" as people waited and waited for the sun to come out and for things to warm up. "Having 70-degree afternoons in July, in California, makes you concerned, to say the least," he pointed out. That said, the vineyards that Kistler works with are on the cold side anyway, and as the wines here have moved decisively away from the opulent style of a decade ago he and co-owner Mark Bixler find that their '11s fit their model quite well. "Tension, texture and clarity" is the goal for their chardonnays, said Kistler. "If you could get your fruit ripe, which is a function of a lot of factors besides just heat, then elegant, balanced wines that have concentration were absolutely possible." Kistler, who has been making wines here since founding the winery in 1978, has embarked on a new venture called Occidental, which will produce pinot noir sourced from his vineyards on the Sonoma Coast in a new winery, near the town of Bodega. The first wines from this venture, which are being sold through the Kistler mailing list, are reviewed in this article as well, under the winery's name. He continues to oversee vineyard work and winemaking at Kistler and will be working with his daughters Catherine and Elizabeth at Occidental.
2006 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard Carneros
Color: White

Score: 96.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Yellow-gold color. Powerful aromas of iodine, wet rock, smoky lees and pear skin. This is all about minerality, with fruit playing second fiddle. Fleshy, smoky orchard fruit and sweet butter flavors are brightened by white flowers and candied anise, with a kiss of herbs on the back. The remarkable mineral expression of this wine reminded me of a top wine from Coche-Dury.

Producer Commentary:
Steve Kistler works exclusively with traditional California clones for both chardonnay (such as Wente, Hyde and Mount Eden) and pinot noir (Pommard, Swan, Calera) because he believes that the Dijon clones planted in the warmer areas of the North Coast "give fruit opulence but at the expense of the minerality we like." Halfway through this year's tasting it struck me that one would be hard-pressed to find a set of more mineral-driven chardonnays anywhere today, even from Burgundy. Kistler attributes this characteristic to the aforementioned heirloom clones as well as to the fact that he works "in cool, stony vineyards that are moderated by wind and fog and have the right exposures." He told me that in 2006 all of his pinot noir was picked at, or under, 24o Brix, which means less than 13.5% potential alcohol.
2007 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard Carneros
Color: White

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Green-tinged gold. A cool and incisive bouquet displays citrus fruits, smoky minerals, hazelnut and spearmint, plus a strong note of oyster shell. Juicy and bracing, with an intensely spicy character to the mineral-dominated lemon, orange and pear flavors suggesting moderate but not excessive ripeness. Becomes smokier and more powerful with air and finishes with outstanding clarity, cling and spicy persistence.

Producer Commentary:
Steve Kistler told me that all of his chardonnays clock in at under 3.4 pH in 2007, and that this is a vintage "that's all about freshness and energy." He also thinks that they will enjoy a slow and positive evolution "because of their dry minerality, which makes them a little stand-offish at this early stage but bodes well for aging." Kistler uses 50% new barriques across the board for all his chardonnays and noted that of course drinkers will notice the oak influence if they consume the wines in the first couple of years after they're bottled. "We're not making wines that are going to show their true hand straight out of the gate," he said. "Some bottle age is necessary for the fermentation character to recede and the terroir to come forward."
2004 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard Carneros
Color: White

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Light gold. Expansive, highly complex aromas of orange, pear, quince, sweet butter, marzipan and iodine reminded me of a really great Meursault. Intense spice- and mineral-accented citrus flavors, with an exotic beeswax note adding depth. Focused and pure on the finish, which has outstanding concentration and length. The only thing that could chase this off my palate was the next wine.

Producer Commentary:
Steve Kistler believes that whole-cluster fermentation gives much more complexity to his wines and does not rack them until bottling. These nuanced, mineral-driven chardonnays do more than wink at Burgundy: they often outdo their Old World counterparts with their complex leesy character. "You're not going to find fruit-driven wines here," Kistler said. He advises drinking his chardonnays at about four to six years though he acknowledges that they can go further-"But at four to six you won't be disappointed." Kistler is very high on his 2004s, believing that they are among the strongest and liveliest sets of wine he has made to date. "They had very low pHs and the fermentations went slowly," he told me.
2005 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard Carneros
Color: White

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Bright gold. Vibrant Meyer lemon, lime, iodine and baking spices on the nose, with anise and floral honey qualities building in the glass. Weighty and dry, with sharply defined citrus and pear flavors sharpened by dusty minerals. The spiciness builds through a long, sappy finish that won't quit. Combines power and finesse effortlessly.

Producer Commentary:
According to Steve Kistler, "2005 was just a wonderful growing season, with no heat spikes, and the fermentations were textbook, with long malos extending into the spring." He noted that he has cut back on his lees-stirring regimen "to better preserve purity." When I mentioned the depth and intensity of his pinot noirs, he told me that "with the Calera clone, it's easy to get that character," adding that he routinely brings in low yields-for example, less than a ton an acre from Occidental Station in 2005.
2011 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 2014 - 2021

Tasting notes: The 2011 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard is the only Chardonnay here that includes some Mt. Eden clone fruit, which gives the wine a level of aromatic nuance and translucence generally not found in the other wines. White flowers, apples, pears and lemon are some of the many notes that take shape in Chardonnay that captures a gorgeous stylistic middle ground in the Kistler range. The 2011 is all about crystalline purity and delineation. At the same time, there is plenty of mid-palate depth and pliancy.

Producer Commentary:
This is a brilliant set of wines from Steve Kistler and his longtime business partner Mark Bixler. According to Kistler, the cool 2011 vintage had little effect on the Chardonnays, all of which were picked at their levels of ripeness, which as I have written previously, are lower than was the norm up until a few years ago. Sugars were harder to come by in the Pinot Noirs, all of which have lower pHs and a little less ripeness than is typically the case. That may be why the 2011 Pinots were so slow to reveal themselves. All of the 2011s were made with native fermentations and were racked only in preparation for bottling, which was done without fining or filtration. The wines were aged in 50% new oak barrels, mostly from Francois Freres. Readers may be aware that Kistler has been partly owned by an investor group for the last six years. Steve Kistler remains CEO and in charge of day to day operations, but has also begun a new Pinot Noir project, Occidental, which is reviewed separately. Going forward, two of the flagship Kistler Pinots, the Cuvèe Catherine and Cuvèe Elizabeth, will be sold under the Occidental label, so Kistler fans will want to consult those reviews for more information on the wines and the project as a whole. Needless to say, it will be interesting to see what Steve Kistler comes up with in the next phase of what has been a brilliant career.
2012 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 2015 - 2020

Tasting notes: Beguiling and compelling from the outset, the 2012 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard presents a totally different aromatic, flavor and structural profile from most of the other wines in the range. Elements of petrol, graphite, smoke, slate and white flowers take shape in a Chardonnay built on precision and tension. The flavors are beautifully articluated and very much on the brighter end of the spectrum. This dry-farmed parcel planted on old St. George rootstock is one of the most distinctive in the Kistler range.

Producer Commentary:
It's fascinating to see how Kistler's 2012 have developed since I tasted them just before bottling. The 2012 Chardonnays seem to have become softer and more open, while the exact opposite has taken place with the Pinot Noirs, all of which are quite a bit firmer and more tannic. My sense is that the 2012 Chardonnays will offer their best drinking sooner rather than later, while the Pinots will reward at least medium-term aging. In other news, Jason Kesner has been promoted to Winemaker, another step in what appears to be a gradual transition as Steve Kistler hands off more day-to-day responsibility to Kesner.
2018 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 96.0

Drinking window: 2021 - 2030

Tasting notes: The 2018 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard marries richness with elegance so well. Lemon confit, hazelnut, spice, butter, spice and apricot all meld together in the glass. Dry-farmed Chardonnay on St. George rootstock cropped to tiny yields and planted on red volcanic soils produces a Chardonnay of tremendous pedigree and character. Attractive tropical inflections add the closing shades of nuance. 

Producer Commentary:
This is a terrific set of new releases from Kistler. The 2018 Chardonnays are the most consistently brilliant wines I have ever tasted here. The long, cool growing season gave winemaker Jason Kesner the opportunity to make wines that express the character of site, and that's exactly what comes through. The 2018 Chardonnays are gorgeous wines through which to explore the wide range of vineyards in the Kistler range. I found the 2018 Pinots pretty tight and far less forthcoming than the Chardonnays. These days, Kesner picks more on acidity than fruit ripeness. Consequently, the wines have moved towards a fresher style, and that is amplified in 2018. The wines spent eleven months in barrel (about 40% new wood), followed by three months in tank prior to being bottled.
2019 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 96.0

Drinking window: 2022 - 2031

Tasting notes: The 2019 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard is magnificent. Fresh, floral and translucent, the 2019 is off the charts gorgeous. Dry-farmed Chardonnay is so special here. Deceptive in its mid-weight feel, the 2019 is wonderfully elegant and so precise. White flowers, crushed rocks, sage, mint and chalk lend a striking top register to this chiseled, pristine mountain Chardonnay. The 2019 is a truly special wine. 

Producer Commentary:
This is a gorgeous set of wines from Kistler. The 2019 Chardonnays show the pedigree of the vintage in their nuance, character and site expression. As good as the Chardonnays are, the Pinots might be even more impressive, as the year was generally far less favorable for Pinot. Winemaker Jason Kesner describes 2019 as a year that was pretty similar to 2018, with the exception of warmer nights at the very end of the season. That ultimately led to a harvest that was a day or two earlier than 2018. Yields were on the generous side, as they were in 2018.
2007 Pinot Noir Bodega Headlands Cuvee Elizabeth Sonoma Coast
Color: Red

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Glass-staining ruby. Aromas of raspberry, licorice, sexy potpourri and Asian spices are lifted by a smoky mineral topnote. Dense, sappy and penetrating, with a deep sweetness and lovely inner-mouth perfume to the red berry, floral and spice flavors. Impressively large-scaled yet suave and vibrant owing to its superb balance and intense minerality. Finishes with striking aromatic persistence and lingering floral notes. 

Producer Commentary:
Steve Kistler told me that all of his chardonnays clock in at under 3.4 pH in 2007, and that this is a vintage "that's all about freshness and energy." He also thinks that they will enjoy a slow and positive evolution "because of their dry minerality, which makes them a little stand-offish at this early stage but bodes well for aging." Kistler uses 50% new barriques across the board for all his chardonnays and noted that of course drinkers will notice the oak influence if they consume the wines in the first couple of years after they're bottled. "We're not making wines that are going to show their true hand straight out of the gate," he said. "Some bottle age is necessary for the fermentation character to recede and the terroir to come forward."
2011 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 2013 - 2021

Tasting notes: The 2011 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard is totally closed in on itself today. Here the flavors are intensely mineral-inflected and saline. Crushed rocks and citrus lead to sweet floral and spiced notes but the 2011 remains first and foremost a wine of texture and balance. Today, it is drop-dead gorgeous, even though the elements haven't fully come together yet. 

Producer Commentary:
It is always a pleasure to visit with Steve Kistler and his partner Mark Bixler. The 2011s and 2010s are excellent across the board, although today, I have a preference for the 2011s. Vintage 2011 is shaping up beautifully, for both the Chardonnays and Pinots. As was the case throughout the region, the season was cool and slow to develop. The 2011s were picked at lower sugars than is the norm here, but very much in keeping with the personality of the year. Steve Kistler commented that a poor set in 2011 resulted in the lowest crop loads here in years. Like a lot of his colleagues, Kistler noted that the experiences of 2010 had a huge positive impact in how he responded to similar challenges in 2011. The 2010 Chardonnays are beautiful across the board. Although solid, the 2010 Pinots aren't quite at the level of the superb 2009s and I expect, ultimately, the 2011s. It was a tough vintage for the Pinots. Yields were mercilessly low. Sadly, there is no Cuvee Elizabeth, as the little fruit that came in went into the Kistler Vineyard bottling.
2017 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 96.0

Drinking window: 2021 - 2029

Tasting notes: The 2017 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard is a powerful, dense wine that captures all the structure and intensity of this Moon Mountain site. Readers will have to be patient with the 2017, as it carries tremendous textural intensity and depth. If tasting blind, I am not sure I would peg this is Chardonnay. The structural imprint of this site on red volcanic soils is incredibly strong. This is another wine in the range that is deeply marked by low yields and high natural concentration.

Producer Commentary:
Jason Kesner turned out a brilliant set of wines at Kistler in 2017. Yields were quite low because of poor weather during set. Kesner told me he was able to pick almost all his fruit - both Pinot and Chardonnay - before the Labor Day heat, which is rare. Perhaps more importantly, over the last few years, Kesner has moved picking dates up by three days on average, which is considerable, especially for Chardonnay. Today's Kistler wines clearly offer more freshness and nuance than in the past. The 2017s are some of the very finest and most consistent wines I have ever tasted here. Clearly, the wines carry considerable textural richness. and yet they are also distinct and highly expressive of site. The 2017s were all racked from barrel to tank just prior to the 2018 harvest, and bottled in November of that year.
2016 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 96.0

Drinking window: 2020 - 2026

Tasting notes: The 2016 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard, from Steve Kistler's original vineyard on Moon Mountain, shows a real sense of hillside structure in its deep, phenolic personality. There is a feeling of real textural depth and substance that runs through the KV. A whole range of citrus, floral and savory notes give the wine its distinctive character. There is just so much going on. In 2016, I have a slight preference for the KV over the Cuvée Cathleen, which emerges from a separate part of the property.

Producer Commentary:
There is plenty to like in this range of 2016s. Steve Kistler is now fully out from the winery he founded in 1978. My distinct impression is that this will prove to be a very positive development for all parties. Kistler has moved on to Occidental, where he is making wines in a very different style than he did here. At the same time, Jason Kesner, Kistler's successor, has the freedom to update these wines and take them to the next level, which is, frankly, something that is needed after many years of being somewhat stuck stylistically. For example, I have long felt the wines, the Chardonnays in particular, could be more differentiated. Hopefully that is something that will come in time. As for the 2016s, they are all attractive wines that will drink well with minimal cellaring.
2013 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 2016 - 2023

Tasting notes: The 2013 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard is quite inward and hard to read today, as the flavors and textures both appear to be quite undeveloped. In the early going at least, the KV has turned out quite reticent. At the same time, there is plenty of energy, which leads me to believe all the 2013 needs is more time.

Producer Commentary:
I tasted all of Kistler's 2013s in October 2014, shortly prior to bottling. According to Steve Kistler, the 2013 harvest was two weeks earlier than it was in 2012, which is pretty typical across Sonoma. I found the 2013s to have considerable energy and tension. It will be interesting to see how that translates once the wines have settled down in bottle.
2015 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 94.5

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: The 2015 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard is the deepest, richest and most phenolically intense of the Chardonnays. A wine of almost raw intensity, the 2015 exudes power and mountain structure. The 2015 has the potential to develop into something special, but it is not especially available today. 

Producer Commentary:
Kistler's 2015s are fabulous. Yields were down 25-30% across the board, which gives the wines notable textural richness and intensity. At the same time, acidities stayed high. The interplay of deep fruit and salivating acidity is the key attribute of these wines, and of the vintage more broadly. Two thousand fifteen is the first year in which some of the Pinot lots were done with whole clusters (on the Cuvée Natalie). In 2016, Kistler doubled the number of lots fermented with stems. The bottled 2014s are consistent with how they showed from tank prior to bottling. Readers will not want to miss the 2014 Pinots, as they are fabulous. The 2014 Chardonnays are attractive, but they are also a bit diffuse and not quite as focused as in the very best years. Yields were lower for Pinot Noir than Chardonnay, which may explain why the Pinots have an extra dimension of clarity.
2014 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 2017 - 2024

Tasting notes: The 2014 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard shows plenty of its typically deep, phenolic structure. Graphite, candied lemon, mint and sage gradually open up in the glass, with veins of underlying salinity that add brightness throughout. These red volcanic soils in this Moon Mountain side yield a very distinctive Chardonnay. The 2014 is perhaps not as intense as some other vintages, but in exchange it will drink well young. 

Producer Commentary:
Kistler's 2015s are fabulous. Yields were down 25-30% across the board, which gives the wines notable textural richness and intensity. At the same time, acidities stayed high. The interplay of deep fruit and salivating acidity is the key attribute of these wines, and of the vintage more broadly. Two thousand fifteen is the first year in which some of the Pinot lots were done with whole clusters (on the Cuvée Natalie). In 2016, Kistler doubled the number of lots fermented with stems. The bottled 2014s are consistent with how they showed from tank prior to bottling. Readers will not want to miss the 2014 Pinots, as they are fabulous. The 2014 Chardonnays are attractive, but they are also a bit diffuse and not quite as focused as in the very best years. Yields were lower for Pinot Noir than Chardonnay, which may explain why the Pinots have an extra dimension of clarity.
2014 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvée Cathleen
Color: White

Score: 95.5

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: The 2014 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvée Cathleen provides a fascinating contrast to the straight Kistler Vineyard bottling, as this parcel is all Wente clone Chardonnay. Intensely vivid and layered, the Cuvée Cathleen is exceptionally beautiful, especially in the way it offers so much depth with no excess weight. 

Producer Commentary:
I tasted a wide range of wines during two recent visits with Steve Kistler, his business partner Mark Bixler, and winemaker Jason Kesner. In 2013, the Chardonnays are more consistent across the board than the Pinots. Yields were naturally high in 2013, largely the result of large berries, which seems to have affected the Pinots more than the Chardonnays. In 2014, it is the exact opposite. Lower yields and small berries helped create ideal conditions for making superb Pinot Noir. The 2014 Chardonnays are more variable than the Pinots today, but better wines suggest there is plenty of latent potential in some of these wines that is not obvious today.
2012 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvée Cathleen
Color: White

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 2015 - 2022

Tasting notes: The 2012 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvee Cathleen emerges from the rockiest blocks on the Kistler Vineyard. Today, the Cuvee Cathleen is comapct and tightly wound, but it neverthless impresses for its pulsating energy and minerality. Most of Kistler Vineyard is planted with the Mount Eden clone, but these parcels are planted with Wente clone Chardonnay. The interplay of fruit, acidity and minerality here is compelling.

Producer Commentary:
This is a brilliant set of wines from Steve Kistler and his longtime business partner Mark Bixler. According to Kistler, the cool 2011 vintage had little effect on the Chardonnays, all of which were picked at their levels of ripeness, which as I have written previously, are lower than was the norm up until a few years ago. Sugars were harder to come by in the Pinot Noirs, all of which have lower pHs and a little less ripeness than is typically the case. That may be why the 2011 Pinots were so slow to reveal themselves. All of the 2011s were made with native fermentations and were racked only in preparation for bottling, which was done without fining or filtration. The wines were aged in 50% new oak barrels, mostly from François Frères. I also tasted the 2012s from tank, just prior to bottling. Today, the wines show terrific balance and tons of potential. I can hardly wait to taste the wines once they are in bottle. Readers may be aware that Kistler has been partly owned by an investor group for the last six years. Steve Kistler remains CEO and in charge of day to day operations, but has also begun a new Pinot Noir project, Occidental, which is reviewed separately. Going forward, two of the flagship Kistler Pinots, the Cuvée Catherine and Cuvée Elizabeth, will be sold under the Occidental label, so Kistler fans will want to consult those reviews for more information on the wines and the project as a whole. Needless to say, it will be interesting to see what Steve Kistler comes up with in the next phase of what has been a brilliant career.
2014 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvée Cathleen
Color: White

Score: 96.0

Drinking window: 2017 - 2024

Tasting notes: A wine of total understatement and class, the 2014 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvée Cathleen is bright, lifted and wonderfully detailed. Citrus, white flowers and orchard fruit and soft contours shape this sublime, totally finessed Chardonnay. Along with the Hudson, the Cuvée Cathleen is one of the standouts in 2014.

Producer Commentary:
Kistler's 2015s are fabulous. Yields were down 25-30% across the board, which gives the wines notable textural richness and intensity. At the same time, acidities stayed high. The interplay of deep fruit and salivating acidity is the key attribute of these wines, and of the vintage more broadly. Two thousand fifteen is the first year in which some of the Pinot lots were done with whole clusters (on the Cuvée Natalie). In 2016, Kistler doubled the number of lots fermented with stems. The bottled 2014s are consistent with how they showed from tank prior to bottling. Readers will not want to miss the 2014 Pinots, as they are fabulous. The 2014 Chardonnays are attractive, but they are also a bit diffuse and not quite as focused as in the very best years. Yields were lower for Pinot Noir than Chardonnay, which may explain why the Pinots have an extra dimension of clarity.
2011 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvee Cathleen
Color: White

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 2014 - 2021

Tasting notes: The 2011 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvee Cathleen presents a beguiling mélange of creamy, expressive fruit and beautifully delineated aromatics, all supported by clean, precise veins of minerality. Hints of yellow stone fruits linger on the deep, resonant finish. The 2011 is shaping up to be a fabulous wine. Today, it is drop-dead gorgeous. 

Producer Commentary:
It is always a pleasure to visit with Steve Kistler and his partner Mark Bixler. The 2011s and 2010s are excellent across the board, although today, I have a preference for the 2011s. Vintage 2011 is shaping up beautifully, for both the Chardonnays and Pinots. As was the case throughout the region, the season was cool and slow to develop. The 2011s were picked at lower sugars than is the norm here, but very much in keeping with the personality of the year. Steve Kistler commented that a poor set in 2011 resulted in the lowest crop loads here in years. Like a lot of his colleagues, Kistler noted that the experiences of 2010 had a huge positive impact in how he responded to similar challenges in 2011. The 2010 Chardonnays are beautiful across the board. Although solid, the 2010 Pinots aren't quite at the level of the superb 2009s and I expect, ultimately, the 2011s. It was a tough vintage for the Pinots. Yields were mercilessly low. Sadly, there is no Cuvee Elizabeth, as the little fruit that came in went into the Kistler Vineyard bottling.
2011 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvée Cathleen
Color: White

Score: 96.0

Drinking window: 2014 - 2021

Tasting notes: The flagship 2011 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvée Cathleen emerges from the rockiest portion of this site, which is dry-farmed and planted exclusively with the Wente clone on St. George rootstock. One of the many highlights in this range, the 2011 brings together the natural richness and depth of the Wente clone, but as seen through the lens of the Sonoma Coast, a brilliant contrast of aromas, flavors and textures. Apricot, peach, white flowers and Chamomile all meld together in a creamy, vivid Chardonnay that captivates all of the senses. This a great showing from Kistler.

Producer Commentary:
This is a brilliant set of wines from Steve Kistler and his longtime business partner Mark Bixler. According to Kistler, the cool 2011 vintage had little effect on the Chardonnays, all of which were picked at their levels of ripeness, which as I have written previously, are lower than was the norm up until a few years ago. Sugars were harder to come by in the Pinot Noirs, all of which have lower pHs and a little less ripeness than is typically the case. That may be why the 2011 Pinots were so slow to reveal themselves. All of the 2011s were made with native fermentations and were racked only in preparation for bottling, which was done without fining or filtration. The wines were aged in 50% new oak barrels, mostly from Francois Freres. Readers may be aware that Kistler has been partly owned by an investor group for the last six years. Steve Kistler remains CEO and in charge of day to day operations, but has also begun a new Pinot Noir project, Occidental, which is reviewed separately. Going forward, two of the flagship Kistler Pinots, the Cuvèe Catherine and Cuvèe Elizabeth, will be sold under the Occidental label, so Kistler fans will want to consult those reviews for more information on the wines and the project as a whole. Needless to say, it will be interesting to see what Steve Kistler comes up with in the next phase of what has been a brilliant career.
2018 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvée Cathleen
Color: White

Score: 97.0

Drinking window: 2021 - 2030

Tasting notes: The 2018 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvée Cathleen emerges from a tenderloin of vines on a west-facing hillside rich in broken shale. A Chardonnay of tension and crystalline purity Cuvée Cathleen presents a stunning expression of Moon Mountain. Apple, orchard fruit, white flowers and crushed rocks all grace this captivating Chardonnay from Kistler. The 2018 is just superb. 

Producer Commentary:
This is a terrific set of new releases from Kistler. The 2018 Chardonnays are the most consistently brilliant wines I have ever tasted here. The long, cool growing season gave winemaker Jason Kesner the opportunity to make wines that express the character of site, and that's exactly what comes through. The 2018 Chardonnays are gorgeous wines through which to explore the wide range of vineyards in the Kistler range. I found the 2018 Pinots pretty tight and far less forthcoming than the Chardonnays. These days, Kesner picks more on acidity than fruit ripeness. Consequently, the wines have moved towards a fresher style, and that is amplified in 2018. The wines spent eleven months in barrel (about 40% new wood), followed by three months in tank prior to being bottled.
2016 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvée Cathleen
Color: White

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 2020 - 2026

Tasting notes: The 2016 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvée Cathleen is laced with a whole range of floral and citrus notes. Today, I find the Cuvée nicely lifted, but also a bit diffuse and hard to read, with less of the precision that is typical. Perhaps bottle age will help things come together more fully. We will see.

Producer Commentary:
There is plenty to like in this range of 2016s. Steve Kistler is now fully out from the winery he founded in 1978. My distinct impression is that this will prove to be a very positive development for all parties. Kistler has moved on to Occidental, where he is making wines in a very different style than he did here. At the same time, Jason Kesner, Kistler's successor, has the freedom to update these wines and take them to the next level, which is, frankly, something that is needed after many years of being somewhat stuck stylistically. For example, I have long felt the wines, the Chardonnays in particular, could be more differentiated. Hopefully that is something that will come in time. As for the 2016s, they are all attractive wines that will drink well with minimal cellaring.
2009 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvee Cathleen
Color: White

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 2013 - 2019

Tasting notes: The 2009 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvee Cathleen, from Wente clones, saturates the palate with honey, yellow flowers, marzipan, tangerine and apricots. It possesses stunning depth and intensity, along with persistent saline notes that add lift on the creamy, expansive finish. The Cuvee Cathleen is quite a bit richer than the straight Kistler Vineyard. Both are striking, which one readers ultimately prefer, is strictly personal preference. 

Producer Commentary:
I was blown away by these wines from Steve Kistler, his partner Mark Bixler and winemaker Jason Kesner. Over the last few years Kistler has refined his approach, as he wasn't totally satisfied by the way some of his earlier wines had developed in bottle. Today Kistler is picking his Chardonnays at lower Brix levels, using less French oak (with no stirring of the lees) and keeping the wines in barrel for a shorter amount of time, all in an effort to preserve as much freshness as possible. The result is wines that are totally different in style from years past. The Pinots see a maximum 50% new oak barrels and that number will continue to trend downwards over the next few years. The 2009 harvest started around September 4th for both Chardonnay and Pinot. The 2009s were bottled in December 2010. Unfortunately, I was not able to taste the 2010s, as they had been bottled just prior to my visit. I will taste those wines in October, 2012. A frequent source of frustration among readers has been the lack of in-the-bottle reviews for Kistler wines. Beginning this year, all wines tasted from barrel will be subsequently reviewed from bottle as well. Readers who haven't tasted the Kistler wines in some time owe it to themselves to do so. These are some of the most thrilling wines being made in California today.
2017 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvée Cathleen
Color: White

Score: 96.5

Drinking window: 2021 - 2029

Tasting notes: The 2017 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvée Cathleen emerges from the center section of a hillside that sits apart from the larger part of the property where the soils are more decomposed in nature. Interestingly, the Cuvée Cathleen is quite lifted and aromatic next to the decidedly richer straight bottling off this site. Floral, citrus and orchard notes all lift from the glass. On the palate, the Cuvée Cathleen is far less expressive and giving. I would cellar it for another year or more. It is very clearly a special wine in the making. The style is all finesse. 

Producer Commentary:
Jason Kesner turned out a brilliant set of wines at Kistler in 2017. Yields were quite low because of poor weather during set. Kesner told me he was able to pick almost all his fruit - both Pinot and Chardonnay - before the Labor Day heat, which is rare. Perhaps more importantly, over the last few years, Kesner has moved picking dates up by three days on average, which is considerable, especially for Chardonnay. Today's Kistler wines clearly offer more freshness and nuance than in the past. The 2017s are some of the very finest and most consistent wines I have ever tasted here. Clearly, the wines carry considerable textural richness. and yet they are also distinct and highly expressive of site. The 2017s were all racked from barrel to tank just prior to the 2018 harvest, and bottled in November of that year.
2013 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 2016 - 2023

Tasting notes: The 2013 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard is wonderfully complete. Expressive mineral-inflected aromatics meld into a core of layered fruit in a powerful, expansive Chardonnay endowed with true pedigree. A real stand out, the 2013 Hudson possesses notable depth, structure and resonance.

Producer Commentary:
I tasted a wide range of wines during two recent visits with Steve Kistler, his business partner Mark Bixler, and winemaker Jason Kesner. In 2013, the Chardonnays are more consistent across the board than the Pinots. Yields were naturally high in 2013, largely the result of large berries, which seems to have affected the Pinots more than the Chardonnays. In 2014, it is the exact opposite. Lower yields and small berries helped create ideal conditions for making superb Pinot Noir. The 2014 Chardonnays are more variable than the Pinots today, but better wines suggest there is plenty of latent potential in some of these wines that is not obvious today.
2016 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 2020 - 2026

Tasting notes: The 2016 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard is delicate and also beautifully layered in the glass. Lemon confit, smoke, slate, tangerine and spice all open up in the glass. A hint of reduction adds character and freshness. Today, the Hudson is quite reticent and gives the impression it is still holding quite a bit in reserve. Give it another year or two to soften a bit.

Producer Commentary:
There is plenty to like in this range of 2016s. Steve Kistler is now fully out from the winery he founded in 1978. My distinct impression is that this will prove to be a very positive development for all parties. Kistler has moved on to Occidental, where he is making wines in a very different style than he did here. At the same time, Jason Kesner, Kistler's successor, has the freedom to update these wines and take them to the next level, which is, frankly, something that is needed after many years of being somewhat stuck stylistically. For example, I have long felt the wines, the Chardonnays in particular, could be more differentiated. Hopefully that is something that will come in time. As for the 2016s, they are all attractive wines that will drink well with minimal cellaring.
2014 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 96.0

Drinking window: 2017 - 2024

Tasting notes: The 2014 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard opens with a characteristic reductive note that also adds an element of freshness and aromatic intrigue. Deep on the palate, yet also weightless, the Hudson has a lot going on. Slate, dried herbs, candied lemon and white pepper add to the wine's super-distinctive aromatic and flavor profile. The Hudson is one of the clear standouts in 2014.

Producer Commentary:
Kistler's 2015s are fabulous. Yields were down 25-30% across the board, which gives the wines notable textural richness and intensity. At the same time, acidities stayed high. The interplay of deep fruit and salivating acidity is the key attribute of these wines, and of the vintage more broadly. Two thousand fifteen is the first year in which some of the Pinot lots were done with whole clusters (on the Cuvée Natalie). In 2016, Kistler doubled the number of lots fermented with stems. The bottled 2014s are consistent with how they showed from tank prior to bottling. Readers will not want to miss the 2014 Pinots, as they are fabulous. The 2014 Chardonnays are attractive, but they are also a bit diffuse and not quite as focused as in the very best years. Yields were lower for Pinot Noir than Chardonnay, which may explain why the Pinots have an extra dimension of clarity.
2009 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 96.0

Drinking window: 2013 - 2019

Tasting notes: The 2009 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard bursts onto the palate with waves of fruit. This is yet another dazzling wine from Kistler endowed with tremendous depth, detail and classiness. Smoke, crushed rocks and apricots are woven into the fabric of this seamless showstopper. The creamy, expansive finish makes it hard to resist a second taste. 

Producer Commentary:
I was blown away by these wines from Steve Kistler, his partner Mark Bixler and winemaker Jason Kesner. Over the last few years Kistler has refined his approach, as he wasn't totally satisfied by the way some of his earlier wines had developed in bottle. Today Kistler is picking his Chardonnays at lower Brix levels, using less French oak (with no stirring of the lees) and keeping the wines in barrel for a shorter amount of time, all in an effort to preserve as much freshness as possible. The result is wines that are totally different in style from years past. The Pinots see a maximum 50% new oak barrels and that number will continue to trend downwards over the next few years. The 2009 harvest started around September 4th for both Chardonnay and Pinot. The 2009s were bottled in December 2010. Unfortunately, I was not able to taste the 2010s, as they had been bottled just prior to my visit. I will taste those wines in October, 2012. A frequent source of frustration among readers has been the lack of in-the-bottle reviews for Kistler wines. Beginning this year, all wines tasted from barrel will be subsequently reviewed from bottle as well. Readers who haven't tasted the Kistler wines in some time owe it to themselves to do so. These are some of the most thrilling wines being made in California today.
2014 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 95.5

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: One of the clear highlights today, the 2014 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard is simply magnificent. Striking aromatics make a strong first impression. Yellow orchard fruit, mint and white pepper are all finely knit in this wonderfully nuanced, expressive Chardonnay, with a subtle underlying vein of reduction that adds the closing shade of nuance.

Producer Commentary:
I tasted a wide range of wines during two recent visits with Steve Kistler, his business partner Mark Bixler, and winemaker Jason Kesner. In 2013, the Chardonnays are more consistent across the board than the Pinots. Yields were naturally high in 2013, largely the result of large berries, which seems to have affected the Pinots more than the Chardonnays. In 2014, it is the exact opposite. Lower yields and small berries helped create ideal conditions for making superb Pinot Noir. The 2014 Chardonnays are more variable than the Pinots today, but better wines suggest there is plenty of latent potential in some of these wines that is not obvious today.
2015 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 94.5

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: The 2015 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard is one of the most vivid and mesmerizing wines in the range. Slightly reductive notes open up first, followed by alluring scents of orchard fruit, mint, slate and chalk that give the 2015 its distinctive personality. Light on its feet but deep in flavor, the Hudson is shaping up to be a real jewel of a wine. 

Producer Commentary:
Kistler's 2015s are fabulous. Yields were down 25-30% across the board, which gives the wines notable textural richness and intensity. At the same time, acidities stayed high. The interplay of deep fruit and salivating acidity is the key attribute of these wines, and of the vintage more broadly. Two thousand fifteen is the first year in which some of the Pinot lots were done with whole clusters (on the Cuvée Natalie). In 2016, Kistler doubled the number of lots fermented with stems. The bottled 2014s are consistent with how they showed from tank prior to bottling. Readers will not want to miss the 2014 Pinots, as they are fabulous. The 2014 Chardonnays are attractive, but they are also a bit diffuse and not quite as focused as in the very best years. Yields were lower for Pinot Noir than Chardonnay, which may explain why the Pinots have an extra dimension of clarity.
2017 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 95.5

Drinking window: 2020 - 2029

Tasting notes: Another highlight in this range, the 2017 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard brings together the natural richness of the year with the delineation and nuance that are the signatures of the best Hudson Chardonnays. Lemon confit, honey, white flowers, mint and light tropical notes abound. In 2017, the Hudson is a bit less reductive than it has been in the recent past, and that, along with the personality of the year, really allows the fruit and textural richness to shine. This is such a gorgeous wine.

Producer Commentary:
Jason Kesner turned out a brilliant set of wines at Kistler in 2017. Yields were quite low because of poor weather during set. Kesner told me he was able to pick almost all his fruit - both Pinot and Chardonnay - before the Labor Day heat, which is rare. Perhaps more importantly, over the last few years, Kesner has moved picking dates up by three days on average, which is considerable, especially for Chardonnay. Today's Kistler wines clearly offer more freshness and nuance than in the past. The 2017s are some of the very finest and most consistent wines I have ever tasted here. Clearly, the wines carry considerable textural richness. and yet they are also distinct and highly expressive of site. The 2017s were all racked from barrel to tank just prior to the 2018 harvest, and bottled in November of that year.
2015 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 93.5

Drinking window: 2019 - 2025

Tasting notes: The weight and power of the vintage really come through in the 2015 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard, and yet the wine doesn't feel quite put together just yet. Even so, there is good depth and creaminess to the tropically-leaning flavors, along with that super-classic hint of matchstick reduction that is such a signature of Hudson Chardonnays. In this tasting, the Hudson is a bit awkward. I would give it another 6-12 months in bottle.

Producer Commentary:
My most recent visit to Kistler was quite poignant, as it was really emblematic of a new chapter in the history of this illustrious winery. To be sure, many of the recent changes have been in the works for some time. Steve Kistler has now moved on from the winery he founded in 1978 and set up shop at Occidental. Jason Kesner, Kistler's colleague for nearly a decade, has taken over the reins as part of a long-term succession plan that has been in place for many years. Kesner has been in every tasting I have done at Kistler since 2011. His relationship with Steve Kistler goes back quite further, to the days when Kesner was running Hudson Vineyards. Much less expected was the sudden passing of Mark Bixler, Steve Kistler's long-term business partner. Bixler had also been in all of my previous tastings at the winery. The last time I heard from Bixler was in October, right after the wildfires had burned his home. He seemed in good spirits. Then, a few weeks later, he was gone. Life can be so fleeting. As for the wines, 2015 looks more like a Pinot Noir year than a Chardonnay year at Kistler. The 2015 Pinots are off the charts great. Overall, the Chardonnays have good freshness, but the unnaturally compacted, hot growing season and early harvest appear to have attenuated some of the site-specific differences that are typically present in the wines. This seems especially true of the Hyde and Hudson Chardonnays. Readers will note that there is a name change on what was formerly the Kistler Vineyard Pinot Noir. In the past, there was some confusion in naming, because the Kistler Vineyard Chardonnays and Pinot Noir actually were made from different sites, the former from the Kistler Vineyard on Moon Mountain and the latter from the Kistler Vineyard in the Russian River. Going forward, there is no change for the Chardonnays, both of which are still made from the Kistler Vineyard on Moon Mountain. The Russian River Kistler Vineyard has been renamed Laguna Ridge, and is the source of a new Chardonnay as well as the Pinot that was previously named Kistler Vineyard. Ordinarily, I would have also reported on the 2016s prior to botting, but the October fires made that impossible.

(Originally published in Sonoma Preview: January 2018 New Releases)
2011 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 2014 - 2019

Tasting notes: Smoke, butter, pastry, hazelnut and dried pears open up in the 2011 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard. A rich, enveloping Chardonnay, the Hudson wraps around the palate with gorgeous depth and pure resonance. Here the flavors are warm, open and inviting. 

Producer Commentary:
This is a brilliant set of wines from Steve Kistler and his longtime business partner Mark Bixler. According to Kistler, the cool 2011 vintage had little effect on the Chardonnays, all of which were picked at their levels of ripeness, which as I have written previously, are lower than was the norm up until a few years ago. Sugars were harder to come by in the Pinot Noirs, all of which have lower pHs and a little less ripeness than is typically the case. That may be why the 2011 Pinots were so slow to reveal themselves. All of the 2011s were made with native fermentations and were racked only in preparation for bottling, which was done without fining or filtration. The wines were aged in 50% new oak barrels, mostly from Francois Freres. Readers may be aware that Kistler has been partly owned by an investor group for the last six years. Steve Kistler remains CEO and in charge of day to day operations, but has also begun a new Pinot Noir project, Occidental, which is reviewed separately. Going forward, two of the flagship Kistler Pinots, the Cuvèe Catherine and Cuvèe Elizabeth, will be sold under the Occidental label, so Kistler fans will want to consult those reviews for more information on the wines and the project as a whole. Needless to say, it will be interesting to see what Steve Kistler comes up with in the next phase of what has been a brilliant career.
2010 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 2013 - 2020

Tasting notes: Ash, smoke, crushed rocks and white flowers jump for the 2010 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard. A wine of total grace and purity, the 2010 wraps around the palate with gorgeous intensity. Here the aromas take on shades of white orchard fruit. White flowers and a drop of French oak add lift and volume on the seamless, inviting finish. 

Producer Commentary:
It is always a pleasure to visit with Steve Kistler and his partner Mark Bixler. The 2011s and 2010s are excellent across the board, although today, I have a preference for the 2011s. Vintage 2011 is shaping up beautifully, for both the Chardonnays and Pinots. As was the case throughout the region, the season was cool and slow to develop. The 2011s were picked at lower sugars than is the norm here, but very much in keeping with the personality of the year. Steve Kistler commented that a poor set in 2011 resulted in the lowest crop loads here in years. Like a lot of his colleagues, Kistler noted that the experiences of 2010 had a huge positive impact in how he responded to similar challenges in 2011. The 2010 Chardonnays are beautiful across the board. Although solid, the 2010 Pinots aren't quite at the level of the superb 2009s and I expect, ultimately, the 2011s. It was a tough vintage for the Pinots. Yields were mercilessly low. Sadly, there is no Cuvee Elizabeth, as the little fruit that came in went into the Kistler Vineyard bottling.
2012 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 2015 - 2022

Tasting notes: One of the more explosive wines in the range, the 2012 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard flows with layers of deep, resonant fruit. The Hudson is rich and oily on the palate, with voluptuous texture and fabulous overall balance. It will appeal most to readers who enjoy Chardonnays built on volume. Even with all of its size, the Hudson retains plenty of energy and salinity.

Producer Commentary:
This is a brilliant set of wines from Steve Kistler and his longtime business partner Mark Bixler. According to Kistler, the cool 2011 vintage had little effect on the Chardonnays, all of which were picked at their levels of ripeness, which as I have written previously, are lower than was the norm up until a few years ago. Sugars were harder to come by in the Pinot Noirs, all of which have lower pHs and a little less ripeness than is typically the case. That may be why the 2011 Pinots were so slow to reveal themselves. All of the 2011s were made with native fermentations and were racked only in preparation for bottling, which was done without fining or filtration. The wines were aged in 50% new oak barrels, mostly from François Frères. I also tasted the 2012s from tank, just prior to bottling. Today, the wines show terrific balance and tons of potential. I can hardly wait to taste the wines once they are in bottle. Readers may be aware that Kistler has been partly owned by an investor group for the last six years. Steve Kistler remains CEO and in charge of day to day operations, but has also begun a new Pinot Noir project, Occidental, which is reviewed separately. Going forward, two of the flagship Kistler Pinots, the Cuvée Catherine and Cuvée Elizabeth, will be sold under the Occidental label, so Kistler fans will want to consult those reviews for more information on the wines and the project as a whole. Needless to say, it will be interesting to see what Steve Kistler comes up with in the next phase of what has been a brilliant career.
2012 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 2015 - 2020

Tasting notes: The 2012 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard is not particularly expressive today, but that probably bodes well for the future. In this tasting, the Hudson is distinguished by its energy and overall structure. Hints of orchard fruit, brioche and spice open up over time, but the Hudson needs time in bottle to fully come together. 

Producer Commentary:
It's fascinating to see how Kistler's 2012 have developed since I tasted them just before bottling. The 2012 Chardonnays seem to have become softer and more open, while the exact opposite has taken place with the Pinot Noirs, all of which are quite a bit firmer and more tannic. My sense is that the 2012 Chardonnays will offer their best drinking sooner rather than later, while the Pinots will reward at least medium-term aging. In other news, Jason Kesner has been promoted to Winemaker, another step in what appears to be a gradual transition as Steve Kistler hands off more day-to-day responsibility to Kesner.
2011 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 2014 - 2021

Tasting notes: Kistler's 2011 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard emerges from the glass with rich, baritone inflections in its fruity. Hazelnuts, pastry, lemon oil and flowers meld together in a seamless, beguiling Chardonnay of the very highest level. In 2011, the Hudson is loaded with personality. It is also one of the more overt wines in the range, but at the same time that trait is a bit subdued by the personality of the year. 

Producer Commentary:
It is always a pleasure to visit with Steve Kistler and his partner Mark Bixler. The 2011s and 2010s are excellent across the board, although today, I have a preference for the 2011s. Vintage 2011 is shaping up beautifully, for both the Chardonnays and Pinots. As was the case throughout the region, the season was cool and slow to develop. The 2011s were picked at lower sugars than is the norm here, but very much in keeping with the personality of the year. Steve Kistler commented that a poor set in 2011 resulted in the lowest crop loads here in years. Like a lot of his colleagues, Kistler noted that the experiences of 2010 had a huge positive impact in how he responded to similar challenges in 2011. The 2010 Chardonnays are beautiful across the board. Although solid, the 2010 Pinots aren't quite at the level of the superb 2009s and I expect, ultimately, the 2011s. It was a tough vintage for the Pinots. Yields were mercilessly low. Sadly, there is no Cuvee Elizabeth, as the little fruit that came in went into the Kistler Vineyard bottling.
2004 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvee Cathleen Russian River Valley
Color: White

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Yellow-gold. Earthy, mineral-driven orange and white peach aromas, with a sexy jasmine accent. Very elegant, with spicy citrus and pear flavors, impressive concentration and a slow-building baking spice quality. Finishes on a vibrant mineral note, with outstanding length and wonderful precision. This is all Wente clone.

Producer Commentary:
Steve Kistler believes that whole-cluster fermentation gives much more complexity to his wines and does not rack them until bottling. These nuanced, mineral-driven chardonnays do more than wink at Burgundy: they often outdo their Old World counterparts with their complex leesy character. "You're not going to find fruit-driven wines here," Kistler said. He advises drinking his chardonnays at about four to six years though he acknowledges that they can go further-"But at four to six you won't be disappointed." Kistler is very high on his 2004s, believing that they are among the strongest and liveliest sets of wine he has made to date. "They had very low pHs and the fermentations went slowly," he told me.
1998 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvee Cathleen Russian River Valley
Color: White

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Leesy, smoky aromas of orange oil, pineapple, lemon skin, coconut and hazelnut. Intensely flavored, spicy and delineated, with mineral and talc notes. Generous and pliant, but perhaps a bit less fat and more precise than some recent vintages of this wine. Finishes very long, firm and subtle.

Producer Commentary:
1996 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvee Cathleen Russian River Valley
Color: White

Score: 92.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Exotic aromas of dried fruit, lime, baconfat and smoky oak. Thick and very concentrated, with a sweetness leavened by harmonious acidity. Conveys an impression of almost chewy extract. Finishes quite dry and uncompromising, with a slight phenolic character and notes of nutskin and red berries. The largest-scaled of these chardonnays, but not yet as harmonious as the last two vineyard-designated bottlings.

Producer Commentary:
2009 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvee Cathleen Russian River Valley
Color: White

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Bright gold. Flamboyantly perfumed bouquet of lemon curd, yellow plum, melon and vanilla, with a smoky mineral topnote. Dense, chewy and focused, offering intense pit fruit and floral flavors and a sneaky note of honey. Broad and opulent but also dry, conveying a strong impression of extract. Finishes sappy and very long, with resonating floral and smoky elements.

Producer Commentary:
"A great vintage, for both pinot and chardonnay," is how Steve Kistler described 2009 to me. "We got full ripeness and a good quantity of fruit, healthy and fully mature at low Brix levels." By low Brix Kistler means somewhere in the 22 to 23 range. "It's completely possible to make intense, deeply flavored wines at those ripeness levels," he said, adding that he prefers brightness over sheer mass. Kistler added that all of his wines fermented to "bone dry" in 2009, noting that he never adds sugar, acids or enzymes to his wines. He told me that he especially likes the structure imparted by the Calera selection of pinot noir and the minerality achieved by the old Wente clones of chardonnay. He reiterated his feeling that the Dijon clones of both chardonnay and pinot noir don't suit his style as they tend to overcrop and overemphasize fruitiness.
2002 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvee Cathleen Russian River Valley
Color: White

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: (this wine has come from the Kistler Vineyard for the past five years but notes this on the 2002 label for the first time) Full yellow. Very ripe aromas of orange zest, pineapple, cotton candy, nutmeg and dusty stone. Superrich, concentrated and sweet, with an almost candied suggestion of orange peel. More about sheer fruit than most of the foregoing chardonnays. But this offers terrific sappiness, impressive size and breadth, and outstanding palate-staining length. The last three vintages of this bottling have been especially impressive.

Producer Commentary:
I tasted the Kistler 2002s in early March with Steve Kistler's business partner Mark Bixler, who told me that the 2002 harvest lasted from September 5 through 24, with much of the fruit being picked at the beginning of that period."There were not big regional differences in quality in 2002," Bixler reported.This year I was able to taste two pinot noir offerings, and the Cuvee Catherine was among the best Kistler pinots I've tasted to date.Bixler noted that 70% of Kistler's wine now comes from their own vineyards, and that grapes Kistler purchases are bought by the acre, rather than by the ton.
1998 Chardonnay Dutton Ranch Russian River Valley
Color: White

Score: 92.5

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Musky aromas of apricot and green apple, plus a cyanic hint of apple pit. Intensely flavored but tightly wound, with flavors of apple, minerals, and spice brightened by firm acids. Pour this somewhat unforthcoming wine into a decanter if you plan to serve it now. Finishes long, ripe and firm.

Producer Commentary:
1996 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvee Cathleen Russian River Valley
Color: White

Score: 0.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Pale gold. Locked up tight on the nose. Extremely tightly wrapped in the mouth and dominated by its structure and oak component. Oily, viscous and oak-spicy, and quite long on the back end, but virtually impossible to taste today. Judgment deferred.

Producer Commentary:
Fans of Kistler chardonnay who are unable to track down this winery scarcer vineyard-designated bottlings should be happy to know that the more widely available Durell and Dutton Ranch chardonnays are both highly successful in '96. The chardonnays here typically get one-half to two-thirds new oak, though Steve Kistler emphasizes that the percentage of new wood varies by the wine and by the vintage. (Kistler Vineyards is one of the largest advance purchasers of Francois Freres barrels in California.) I was unable to taste the '97 chardonnays, as most of these wines were about to be bottled. Pinot noir is growing as a percentage of total Kistler production, but these wines are still extremely limited in the retail marketplace. The '96s I tasted are rare birds for California pinot noir: wines that offer mouthfilling richness and superb depth of flavor while retaining a sappy berry character and avoiding aromas and flavors of overripeness.
2007 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvee Cathleen Russian River Valley
Color: White

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: (this is all Wente clone) Light gold. Precise, high-pitched aromas of lime, honeysuckle and minerals, with complicating notes of anise and iodine. Dense, intense and impeccably balanced, showing a very firm mineral spine without coming off as austere. In fact, this is extremely concentrated, offering powerful pear and fresh fig flavors and a late note of honeysuckle. Quite steely on the pure, dusty finish, which displays sneaky length and a touch of smokiness.

Producer Commentary:
Steve Kistler told me that all of his chardonnays clock in at under 3.4 pH in 2007, and that this is a vintage "that's all about freshness and energy." He also thinks that they will enjoy a slow and positive evolution "because of their dry minerality, which makes them a little stand-offish at this early stage but bodes well for aging." Kistler uses 50% new barriques across the board for all his chardonnays and noted that of course drinkers will notice the oak influence if they consume the wines in the first couple of years after they're bottled. "We're not making wines that are going to show their true hand straight out of the gate," he said. "Some bottle age is necessary for the fermentation character to recede and the terroir to come forward."
2005 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvee Cathleen Russian River Valley
Color: White

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Bright gold. Assertively perfumed, mineral-driven aromas of pear, quince and musky yellow plum, with a smoky undertone of iodine and peat. This extremely complex chardonnay offers spicy orchard and pit fruit character, velour-like texture and excellent depth. Admirably restrained and pure, with superb finishing lift, cut and minerality.

Producer Commentary:
According to Steve Kistler, "2005 was just a wonderful growing season, with no heat spikes, and the fermentations were textbook, with long malos extending into the spring." He noted that he has cut back on his lees-stirring regimen "to better preserve purity." When I mentioned the depth and intensity of his pinot noirs, he told me that "with the Calera clone, it's easy to get that character," adding that he routinely brings in low yields-for example, less than a ton an acre from Occidental Station in 2005.
2008 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvee Cathleen Russian River Valley
Color: White

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Bright yellow. An energetic, highly complex nose displays nectarine, orange zest, minerals and musky lees. Spicy, broad and deeply concentrated but lively as well, with pit fruit and citrus flavors complicated by notes of white pepper and quinine. Shows oily, mouthfilling texture yet avoids coming off as heavy thanks to healthy acidity. Finishes with outstanding persistence and clarity and a firm edge of acidity.

Producer Commentary:
Steve Kistler and his assistant winemaker Jason Kesner described 2008 as "a vintage where there's very good concentration to the chardonnays but not too much." Kistler told me that his aim was "to get the wines to ferment to truly dry and to never use sugar. Sugar simplifies the fruit," he added, "and if you're trying to get real complexity, much less minerality and finesse, that's going to be very hard to achieve with added sugar." Speaking of finesse, I asked Kistler about the greater precision of his pinot noirs in recent vintages. He told me "it's all part of the fine-tuning to get to where we have expression but not too much weight." He explained that he had shortened the cold soaks of his pinot, "which seems to add lift to their aromas and has increased floral and spice character." Also recommended:
2006 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvee Cathleen Russian River Valley
Color: White

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Bright yellow-gold. Deep, musky aromas of poached pear, peach pit, iodine, smoked meat and yellow rose. Fleshy, palate-coating orchard and pit fruit flavors display outstanding depth, with strong floral, herbal and mineral qualities adding complexity. The finish is a wall of deep, powerful fruit and mineral notes that refuses to let go of the palate. This is all Wente clone and the richest chardonnay of this year's line-up from Kistler.

Producer Commentary:
Steve Kistler works exclusively with traditional California clones for both chardonnay (such as Wente, Hyde and Mount Eden) and pinot noir (Pommard, Swan, Calera) because he believes that the Dijon clones planted in the warmer areas of the North Coast "give fruit opulence but at the expense of the minerality we like." Halfway through this year's tasting it struck me that one would be hard-pressed to find a set of more mineral-driven chardonnays anywhere today, even from Burgundy. Kistler attributes this characteristic to the aforementioned heirloom clones as well as to the fact that he works "in cool, stony vineyards that are moderated by wind and fog and have the right exposures." He told me that in 2006 all of his pinot noir was picked at, or under, 24o Brix, which means less than 13.5% potential alcohol.
2010 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvee Cathleen Russian River Valley
Color: White

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Light yellow, with a green hue. An intense, mineral-dominated bouquet evokes nectarine, orange, lemon pith and white flowers, with a chalky topnote. Racy, focused and strikingly pure citrus and orchard fruit flavors are underscored by vibrant mineral and iodine qualities and pick up flesh with aeration. Closes with superb clarity and length, trailing notes of honeysuckle, sweet butter and citrus zest.

Producer Commentary:
Aside from the obvious "stressful growing season and short crop," Steve Kistler is "very pleased with how 2010 has ultimately turned out" for both chardonnay and pinot noir. The coolness of the season encouraged the naturally low pHs and low sugars ("but with full ripeness") that Kistler seeks. According to Kistler, "They had the concentration to quickly and efficiently absorb the oak" and show a spiciness that makes for plenty of immediate appeal. The pinots "have a taut quality" that bodes well for aging, he says, adding that the late season heat spikes were mostly beneficial "if your vineyards were in cold, windy or high altitude spots and you hadn't gone too far with canopy thinning."
2007 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard Carneros
Color: White

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Greenish gold. Stony, tightly focused aromas and flavors of citrus zest, green apple and iodine give way to deeper peach and floral honey with air. Offers an intriguing blend of rich and energetic fruit and floral flavors, with slow-building smokiness. Finishes with palate-staining lemon and chalk qualities and an echo of honey. After the previous wine this seems positively Rubenesque.

Producer Commentary:
Steve Kistler told me that all of his chardonnays clock in at under 3.4 pH in 2007, and that this is a vintage "that's all about freshness and energy." He also thinks that they will enjoy a slow and positive evolution "because of their dry minerality, which makes them a little stand-offish at this early stage but bodes well for aging." Kistler uses 50% new barriques across the board for all his chardonnays and noted that of course drinkers will notice the oak influence if they consume the wines in the first couple of years after they're bottled. "We're not making wines that are going to show their true hand straight out of the gate," he said. "Some bottle age is necessary for the fermentation character to recede and the terroir to come forward."
2011 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard Carneros
Color: White

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Vivid yellow-gold. Powerful mineral-accented aromas of Meyer lemon, pear skin, iodine and white flowers. Stains the palate with vibrant orchard and pit fruit flavors, showing a refreshingly bitter citrus pith quality with air. Deftly combines power and energy and finishes with intense mineral and spice notes and a lingering anise quality.

Producer Commentary:
In Steve Kistler's view, "the biggest issue with 2011 was anxiety" as people waited and waited for the sun to come out and for things to warm up."Having 70-degree afternoons in July, in California, makes you concerned, to say the least," he pointed out.That said, the vineyards that Kistler works with are on the cold side anyway, and as the wines here have moved decisively away from the opulent style of a decade ago he and co-owner Mark Bixler find that their '11s fit their model quite well."Tension, texture and clarity" is the goal for their chardonnays, said Kistler."If you could get your fruit ripe, which is a function of a lot of factors besides just heat, then elegant, balanced wines that have concentration were absolutely possible." Kistler, who has been making wines here since founding the winery in 1978, has embarked on a new venture called Occidental, which will produce pinot noir sourced from his vineyards on the Sonoma Coast in a new winery, near the town of Bodega. The first wines from this venture, which are being sold through the Kistler mailing list, are reviewed in this article as well, under the winery's name. He continues to oversee vineyard work and winemaking at Kistler and will be working with his daughters Catherine and Elizabeth at Occidental.
2001 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard Carneros
Color: White

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Deeper yellow color. High-pitched, soil-inflected aromas of iodine, earth and lemon, with a more exotic hint of orange peel. Rich, chewy and seamless on the palate; conveys an impression of sweetness, but the lemon, grapefruit and crushed stone flavors are also quite penetrating. A very young, chewy wine with terrific precision and depth. Finishes subtle and very long, with a bit more grip than the Hirsch.

Producer Commentary:
Steve Kistler describes 2001 as "a wonderful vintage where the natural yeasts and malolactic bacteria behaved themselves nicely.We were able to sulfur the wines by the first of the new year," he went on. The pHs are in the 3.3 to 3.4 range, as low as in 2000. The wines are delicious now but should last well. There are no blowsy wines, and they show clear differences of vineyard character. I'd suggest drinking them beginning in 2006."Kistler went on to note that his chardonnays have a lower percentage of solids in them than in the past. He's also keeping the musts a bit warmer for the first 48 hours, and he believes that this has helped the yeasts work better. Once again, Kistler showed me only a single 2001 pinot noir, albeit his most important bottling in terms of cases produced.
2002 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard Carneros
Color: White

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Good full yellow. Musky aromas of ginger, minerals and sulfides; distinctly Burgundian. Superripe, dense, chewy and concentrated, with very dry but rich flavors of pineapple, orange oil and hazelnut. This boasts terrific definition and cut. The palate-staining finish is extremely long and subtle, offering a firm mineral edge and a note of charred oak.

Producer Commentary:
I tasted the Kistler 2002s in early March with Steve Kistler's business partner Mark Bixler, who told me that the 2002 harvest lasted from September 5 through 24, with much of the fruit being picked at the beginning of that period."There were not big regional differences in quality in 2002," Bixler reported.This year I was able to taste two pinot noir offerings, and the Cuvee Catherine was among the best Kistler pinots I've tasted to date.Bixler noted that 70% of Kistler's wine now comes from their own vineyards, and that grapes Kistler purchases are bought by the acre, rather than by the ton.
2004 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard Carneros
Color: White

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Green-gold. Strong iodine and sulfide tones accent bright pink grapefruit and lemon, with an intriguing smoked meat quality adding depth. Deep, concentrated and mineral-driven, with strong citrus and quince flavors, but the soil tones are even more pronounced. A singular, intensely scented and flavored chardonnay, with great character, concentration and power. This was one of the most memorable wines of my trip. Kistler says that it will be the longest-lived of the vintage's chardonnays.

Producer Commentary:
Steve Kistler believes that whole-cluster fermentation gives much more complexity to his wines and does not rack them until bottling. These nuanced, mineral-driven chardonnays do more than wink at Burgundy: they often outdo their Old World counterparts with their complex leesy character. "You're not going to find fruit-driven wines here," Kistler said. He advises drinking his chardonnays at about four to six years though he acknowledges that they can go further-"But at four to six you won't be disappointed." Kistler is very high on his 2004s, believing that they are among the strongest and liveliest sets of wine he has made to date. "They had very low pHs and the fermentations went slowly," he told me.
1998 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard Carneros
Color: White

Score: 96.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Pale green-tinged color. Musky, leesy aromas of lime, ginger and iodine; showed more exotic pineapple and dried fruit notes as it opened in the glass. The palate detonates with sweet, penetrating, creamy fruit of extraordinary depth. As powerful as this is, it conveys an impression of poise. The explosive, endless finish combines palate-saturating fruit and dusty mineral notes. This is surely the greatest young chardonnay I've tasted in my dining room so far this year.

Producer Commentary:
2003 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard Carneros
Color: White

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Medium yellow. Smoky, musky nose features complex sulfides, minerals and nuts; funky in a positive way. Fat, dense, round and sweet but with lovely lightness of touch. The apricot and nut oil flavors are broad and rather powerful, yet at the same time almost magically weightless. Finishes with sneaky persistence and lovely grip. Kistler pointed out that the Hyde, Hudson and Durell vineyards are all within a half-mile of one another.

Producer Commentary:
Steve Kistler was quite excited about the quality of the 2005s, which he feels may be his best wines yet. But he described the 2003s as "rich and high in extract, with excellent structure. "Alcohol levels are in the mid-14s, which is about normal for this producer today. "We started harvesting on the late side, but the harvest took place during a fairly hot period and was more compact than usual," noted Kistler, who considers the 2003s to be a medium- to long-term ager by the standards of his wines. "In 2003 we have acids about as good as we've gotten to date, except for 2005," he told me, "but acids accompanied by thoroughly ripe fruit. "Kistler showed me a couple of very strong pinots at the end of our tasting. He feels he has turned the corner on pinot in 2002 and 2003, through a combination of slightly earlier picking and cooler fermentation temperatures. Still, he noted, whereas "we made red fruit pinots six or seven years ago," (wines he described as more Burgundian in character), "our clients expect to find black fruit flavors in our wines. "
2008 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard Carneros
Color: White

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Vivid yellow. Seductively aromatic nose offers ripe peach and melon scents complicated by spice and smoke and lifted by a floral element. Showing more power and intensity than the Hudson, with deep pit fruit flavors and a hint of mango. Finishes with superb clarity and length, the mineral and spice notes echoing.

Producer Commentary:
Steve Kistler and his assistant winemaker Jason Kesner described 2008 as "a vintage where there's very good concentration to the chardonnays but not too much." Kistler told me that his aim was "to get the wines to ferment to truly dry and to never use sugar. Sugar simplifies the fruit," he added, "and if you're trying to get real complexity, much less minerality and finesse, that's going to be very hard to achieve with added sugar." Speaking of finesse, I asked Kistler about the greater precision of his pinot noirs in recent vintages. He told me "it's all part of the fine-tuning to get to where we have expression but not too much weight." He explained that he had shortened the cold soaks of his pinot, "which seems to add lift to their aromas and has increased floral and spice character." Also recommended:
2010 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard Carneros
Color: White

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Vivid gold. A mineral-driven, intensely perfumed bouquet presents fresh pear, lime pith and jasmine, with an iodine-y overtone. Racy, sharply focused citrus and orchard fruit flavors pack an impressive punch but show no excess weight. Gains sweetness and a gingery nuance with air while maintaining vibrancy and tension. The strikingly pure, focused finish shows superb energy and leaves resonating mineral and floral notes behind.

Producer Commentary:
Aside from the obvious "stressful growing season and short crop," Steve Kistler is "very pleased with how 2010 has ultimately turned out" for both chardonnay and pinot noir. The coolness of the season encouraged the naturally low pHs and low sugars ("but with full ripeness") that Kistler seeks. According to Kistler, "They had the concentration to quickly and efficiently absorb the oak" and show a spiciness that makes for plenty of immediate appeal. The pinots "have a taut quality" that bodes well for aging, he says, adding that the late season heat spikes were mostly beneficial "if your vineyards were in cold, windy or high altitude spots and you hadn't gone too far with canopy thinning."
2005 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard Carneros
Color: White

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Yellow-gold. Sharply focused tangerine and lime aromas are complicated by dusty minerals, white flowers and anise, with a suave undercurrent of toasty lees. Vibrant, finely etched citrus flavors expand on the palate, picking up honeyed pear and green papaya notes. This really stains the palate on the back end, leaving behind a strong echo of smoky minerals.

Producer Commentary:
According to Steve Kistler, "2005 was just a wonderful growing season, with no heat spikes, and the fermentations were textbook, with long malos extending into the spring." He noted that he has cut back on his lees-stirring regimen "to better preserve purity." When I mentioned the depth and intensity of his pinot noirs, he told me that "with the Calera clone, it's easy to get that character," adding that he routinely brings in low yields-for example, less than a ton an acre from Occidental Station in 2005.
1996 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard Carneros
Color: White

Score: 94.5

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Yellow-gold. Knockout, soil-specific aromas of lemon, orange zest and iodine. A step up in intensity and concentration; lively acidity gives the sweet flavors uncanny precision. This offers great verve. Finishes very long and firm, and rather suave.

Producer Commentary:
Fans of Kistler chardonnay who are unable to track down this winery scarcer vineyard-designated bottlings should be happy to know that the more widely available Durell and Dutton Ranch chardonnays are both highly successful in '96. The chardonnays here typically get one-half to two-thirds new oak, though Steve Kistler emphasizes that the percentage of new wood varies by the wine and by the vintage. (Kistler Vineyards is one of the largest advance purchasers of Francois Freres barrels in California.) I was unable to taste the '97 chardonnays, as most of these wines were about to be bottled. Pinot noir is growing as a percentage of total Kistler production, but these wines are still extremely limited in the retail marketplace. The '96s I tasted are rare birds for California pinot noir: wines that offer mouthfilling richness and superb depth of flavor while retaining a sappy berry character and avoiding aromas and flavors of overripeness.
2009 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard Carneros
Color: White

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Bright gold. Sexy, highly perfumed aromas of candied lemon, pear skin, iodine and smoky minerals. Dry, incisive citrus fruit and floral flavors show excellent clarity and intensity, with a touch of licorice adding depth. The mineral note comes back strong on the clinging finish.

Producer Commentary:
"A great vintage, for both pinot and chardonnay," is how Steve Kistler described 2009 to me. "We got full ripeness and a good quantity of fruit, healthy and fully mature at low Brix levels." By low Brix Kistler means somewhere in the 22 to 23 range. "It's completely possible to make intense, deeply flavored wines at those ripeness levels," he said, adding that he prefers brightness over sheer mass. Kistler added that all of his wines fermented to "bone dry" in 2009, noting that he never adds sugar, acids or enzymes to his wines. He told me that he especially likes the structure imparted by the Calera selection of pinot noir and the minerality achieved by the old Wente clones of chardonnay. He reiterated his feeling that the Dijon clones of both chardonnay and pinot noir don't suit his style as they tend to overcrop and overemphasize fruitiness.
2009 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Sonoma Coast
Color: White

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Green-tinged gold. Deep, mineral-accented aromas of Poire Willaim, lemon pith and iodine, complicated by a smoky, leesy nuance and slow-building florality. Shows an intriguing blend of richness and energy, offering palate-staining orchard fruit and ginger flavors underscored by dusty minerals and white pepper. Notes of jasmine and chamomile cling on the sappy, strikingly powerful, focused finish. 

Producer Commentary:
"A great vintage, for both pinot and chardonnay," is how Steve Kistler described 2009 to me. "We got full ripeness and a good quantity of fruit, healthy and fully mature at low Brix levels." By low Brix Kistler means somewhere in the 22 to 23 range. "It's completely possible to make intense, deeply flavored wines at those ripeness levels," he said, adding that he prefers brightness over sheer mass. Kistler added that all of his wines fermented to "bone dry" in 2009, noting that he never adds sugar, acids or enzymes to his wines. He told me that he especially likes the structure imparted by the Calera selection of pinot noir and the minerality achieved by the old Wente clones of chardonnay. He reiterated his feeling that the Dijon clones of both chardonnay and pinot noir don't suit his style as they tend to overcrop and overemphasize fruitiness.
2015 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 93.5

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: The 2015 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard is fabulous. Rich, boisterous and exotic to the core, the Hyde exudes intensity in all dimensions. Orange blossom, vanillin, spice and lightly tropical notes give the Hyde much of its extroverted, voluptuous personality, but there is an attractive underpinning of minerality that plays off the richer elements nicely. 

Producer Commentary:
Kistler's 2015s are fabulous. Yields were down 25-30% across the board, which gives the wines notable textural richness and intensity. At the same time, acidities stayed high. The interplay of deep fruit and salivating acidity is the key attribute of these wines, and of the vintage more broadly. Two thousand fifteen is the first year in which some of the Pinot lots were done with whole clusters (on the Cuvée Natalie). In 2016, Kistler doubled the number of lots fermented with stems. The bottled 2014s are consistent with how they showed from tank prior to bottling. Readers will not want to miss the 2014 Pinots, as they are fabulous. The 2014 Chardonnays are attractive, but they are also a bit diffuse and not quite as focused as in the very best years. Yields were lower for Pinot Noir than Chardonnay, which may explain why the Pinots have an extra dimension of clarity.
2010 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 2013 - 2020

Tasting notes: A striking wine in its aromatics alone, the 2010 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard is another of the highlights in the range. Totally live in the glass, the 2010 is beautifully nuanced throughout. Apricots, orange blossoms and honey suckle are some of the many nuances that emerge in a Chardonnay that impresses for its oily, expansive feel. This is another drop-dead gorgeous wine from Kistler. 

Producer Commentary:
It is always a pleasure to visit with Steve Kistler and his partner Mark Bixler. The 2011s and 2010s are excellent across the board, although today, I have a preference for the 2011s. Vintage 2011 is shaping up beautifully, for both the Chardonnays and Pinots. As was the case throughout the region, the season was cool and slow to develop. The 2011s were picked at lower sugars than is the norm here, but very much in keeping with the personality of the year. Steve Kistler commented that a poor set in 2011 resulted in the lowest crop loads here in years. Like a lot of his colleagues, Kistler noted that the experiences of 2010 had a huge positive impact in how he responded to similar challenges in 2011. The 2010 Chardonnays are beautiful across the board. Although solid, the 2010 Pinots aren't quite at the level of the superb 2009s and I expect, ultimately, the 2011s. It was a tough vintage for the Pinots. Yields were mercilessly low. Sadly, there is no Cuvee Elizabeth, as the little fruit that came in went into the Kistler Vineyard bottling.
2013 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 2016 - 2021

Tasting notes: The 2013 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard is laced with hints of orange blossom, dried orchard fruit, butter, smoke and savory notes – all typical of Wente clone Chardonnay – although there is less textural richness than is often the case. The Hyde is a pretty wine, but the vineyard signatures are not especially marked.

Producer Commentary:
I tasted a wide range of wines during two recent visits with Steve Kistler, his business partner Mark Bixler, and winemaker Jason Kesner. In 2013, the Chardonnays are more consistent across the board than the Pinots. Yields were naturally high in 2013, largely the result of large berries, which seems to have affected the Pinots more than the Chardonnays. In 2014, it is the exact opposite. Lower yields and small berries helped create ideal conditions for making superb Pinot Noir. The 2014 Chardonnays are more variable than the Pinots today, but better wines suggest there is plenty of latent potential in some of these wines that is not obvious today.
2018 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 97.0

Drinking window: 2020 - 2028

Tasting notes: The 2018 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard is positively stellar. Rich and ample in feel, the 2018 captures all of the volume that is so typical of wines off this site. A hint of reduction adds character to the tangerine oil, hazelnut, butter and tropical flavors. Even with all of its intensity, the Hyde is sustained by the bright acids that are such a signature of the vintage. This is such a great example of what Hyde is, can, and should be. 

Producer Commentary:
This is a terrific set of new releases from Kistler. The 2018 Chardonnays are the most consistently brilliant wines I have ever tasted here. The long, cool growing season gave winemaker Jason Kesner the opportunity to make wines that express the character of site, and that's exactly what comes through. The 2018 Chardonnays are gorgeous wines through which to explore the wide range of vineyards in the Kistler range. I found the 2018 Pinots pretty tight and far less forthcoming than the Chardonnays. These days, Kesner picks more on acidity than fruit ripeness. Consequently, the wines have moved towards a fresher style, and that is amplified in 2018. The wines spent eleven months in barrel (about 40% new wood), followed by three months in tank prior to being bottled.
2017 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 2019 - 2027

Tasting notes: Kistler's 2017 Chardonnay Hyde is a super-classic expression of this well-known site. Tangerine, butter, honey, matchstick, hazelnut and dried flowers all flesh out in an ample, creamy Chardonnay endowed with tremendous balance and personality to burn. Underpinnings of salinity add character as well as complexity.

Producer Commentary:
Jason Kesner turned out a brilliant set of wines at Kistler in 2017. Yields were quite low because of poor weather during set. Kesner told me he was able to pick almost all his fruit - both Pinot and Chardonnay - before the Labor Day heat, which is rare. Perhaps more importantly, over the last few years, Kesner has moved picking dates up by three days on average, which is considerable, especially for Chardonnay. Today's Kistler wines clearly offer more freshness and nuance than in the past. The 2017s are some of the very finest and most consistent wines I have ever tasted here. Clearly, the wines carry considerable textural richness. and yet they are also distinct and highly expressive of site. The 2017s were all racked from barrel to tank just prior to the 2018 harvest, and bottled in November of that year.
2016 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 2020 - 2026

Tasting notes: The 2016 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard is a wine of real density, weight and gravitas, all qualities that are such signatures of this Carneros site. Creamy and voluptuous in the glass, the 2016 exudes textural richness in all of its dimensions. The Hyde is one of the more virile, potent wines in the range. There is no shortage of personality or character. That is abundantly clear. 

Producer Commentary:
There is plenty to like in this range of 2016s. Steve Kistler is now fully out from the winery he founded in 1978. My distinct impression is that this will prove to be a very positive development for all parties. Kistler has moved on to Occidental, where he is making wines in a very different style than he did here. At the same time, Jason Kesner, Kistler's successor, has the freedom to update these wines and take them to the next level, which is, frankly, something that is needed after many years of being somewhat stuck stylistically. For example, I have long felt the wines, the Chardonnays in particular, could be more differentiated. Hopefully that is something that will come in time. As for the 2016s, they are all attractive wines that will drink well with minimal cellaring.
2011 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 2014 - 2021

Tasting notes: A stunning contrast to the Hudson, the 2011 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard is all about subtlety and grace. White orchard fruit, flowers and sweet spices are woven together in a fabric of unusual class and pure harmony. Seamless, round and totally inviting, the Hyde is arguably the most complete of these 2011 Chardonnays. Today, it is effortless, gracious and impeccable from the very first taste. 

Producer Commentary:
It is always a pleasure to visit with Steve Kistler and his partner Mark Bixler. The 2011s and 2010s are excellent across the board, although today, I have a preference for the 2011s. Vintage 2011 is shaping up beautifully, for both the Chardonnays and Pinots. As was the case throughout the region, the season was cool and slow to develop. The 2011s were picked at lower sugars than is the norm here, but very much in keeping with the personality of the year. Steve Kistler commented that a poor set in 2011 resulted in the lowest crop loads here in years. Like a lot of his colleagues, Kistler noted that the experiences of 2010 had a huge positive impact in how he responded to similar challenges in 2011. The 2010 Chardonnays are beautiful across the board. Although solid, the 2010 Pinots aren't quite at the level of the superb 2009s and I expect, ultimately, the 2011s. It was a tough vintage for the Pinots. Yields were mercilessly low. Sadly, there is no Cuvee Elizabeth, as the little fruit that came in went into the Kistler Vineyard bottling.
2009 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Kistler’s 2009 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard is absolutely gorgeous, with all of its characteristic richness, power and breadth on full display. Creamy and expressive, the 2009 is in a great spot today. 

Producer Commentary:
This wine was tasted over dinner at Bar Boulud in January of 2015.
2015 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 2019 - 2025

Tasting notes: The 2015 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard offers good immediacy and plenty of up-front appeal, if not quite the nuance, delineation or complexity of the most expressive wines here. Next to the other wines in this range, the Hyde offers plenty of fruit depth and richness, but I would have liked to see more Hyde character, especially given the pedigree of this site. Today, the Hyde is uncharacteristically timid. 

Producer Commentary:
My most recent visit to Kistler was quite poignant, as it was really emblematic of a new chapter in the history of this illustrious winery. To be sure, many of the recent changes have been in the works for some time. Steve Kistler has now moved on from the winery he founded in 1978 and set up shop at Occidental. Jason Kesner, Kistler's colleague for nearly a decade, has taken over the reins as part of a long-term succession plan that has been in place for many years. Kesner has been in every tasting I have done at Kistler since 2011. His relationship with Steve Kistler goes back quite further, to the days when Kesner was running Hudson Vineyards. Much less expected was the sudden passing of Mark Bixler, Steve Kistler's long-term business partner. Bixler had also been in all of my previous tastings at the winery. The last time I heard from Bixler was in October, right after the wildfires had burned his home. He seemed in good spirits. Then, a few weeks later, he was gone. Life can be so fleeting. As for the wines, 2015 looks more like a Pinot Noir year than a Chardonnay year at Kistler. The 2015 Pinots are off the charts great. Overall, the Chardonnays have good freshness, but the unnaturally compacted, hot growing season and early harvest appear to have attenuated some of the site-specific differences that are typically present in the wines. This seems especially true of the Hyde and Hudson Chardonnays. Readers will note that there is a name change on what was formerly the Kistler Vineyard Pinot Noir. In the past, there was some confusion in naming, because the Kistler Vineyard Chardonnays and Pinot Noir actually were made from different sites, the former from the Kistler Vineyard on Moon Mountain and the latter from the Kistler Vineyard in the Russian River. Going forward, there is no change for the Chardonnays, both of which are still made from the Kistler Vineyard on Moon Mountain. The Russian River Kistler Vineyard has been renamed Laguna Ridge, and is the source of a new Chardonnay as well as the Pinot that was previously named Kistler Vineyard. Ordinarily, I would have also reported on the 2016s prior to botting, but the October fires made that impossible.

(Originally published in Sonoma Preview: January 2018 New Releases)
2011 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 96.0

Drinking window: 2014 - 2021

Tasting notes: The 2011 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard is one of the more exotic wines in the range. Orange peel, mint, flowers, honey and butter meld together in a luscious Chardonnay loaded with class and complexity. Hints of tropical fruit grace the expressive, layered finish. This is a fabulous showing from Kistler.

Producer Commentary:
This is a brilliant set of wines from Steve Kistler and his longtime business partner Mark Bixler. According to Kistler, the cool 2011 vintage had little effect on the Chardonnays, all of which were picked at their levels of ripeness, which as I have written previously, are lower than was the norm up until a few years ago. Sugars were harder to come by in the Pinot Noirs, all of which have lower pHs and a little less ripeness than is typically the case. That may be why the 2011 Pinots were so slow to reveal themselves. All of the 2011s were made with native fermentations and were racked only in preparation for bottling, which was done without fining or filtration. The wines were aged in 50% new oak barrels, mostly from Francois Freres. Readers may be aware that Kistler has been partly owned by an investor group for the last six years. Steve Kistler remains CEO and in charge of day to day operations, but has also begun a new Pinot Noir project, Occidental, which is reviewed separately. Going forward, two of the flagship Kistler Pinots, the Cuvèe Catherine and Cuvèe Elizabeth, will be sold under the Occidental label, so Kistler fans will want to consult those reviews for more information on the wines and the project as a whole. Needless to say, it will be interesting to see what Steve Kistler comes up with in the next phase of what has been a brilliant career.
2014 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 2017 - 2022

Tasting notes: The 2014 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard is rich, seamless and intense on the palate. It is one of the more overt, tropically-leaning wines in the range. Although not quite as deep or complex as it can be, the Hyde will drink well with minimal cellaring. All the vineyard signatures are present, they just aren't as delineated as they are in the very best years. Orange peel, lemon confit, spice and a hint of French oak add the last shades of nuance. 

Producer Commentary:
Kistler's 2015s are fabulous. Yields were down 25-30% across the board, which gives the wines notable textural richness and intensity. At the same time, acidities stayed high. The interplay of deep fruit and salivating acidity is the key attribute of these wines, and of the vintage more broadly. Two thousand fifteen is the first year in which some of the Pinot lots were done with whole clusters (on the Cuvée Natalie). In 2016, Kistler doubled the number of lots fermented with stems. The bottled 2014s are consistent with how they showed from tank prior to bottling. Readers will not want to miss the 2014 Pinots, as they are fabulous. The 2014 Chardonnays are attractive, but they are also a bit diffuse and not quite as focused as in the very best years. Yields were lower for Pinot Noir than Chardonnay, which may explain why the Pinots have an extra dimension of clarity.
2013 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 2016 - 2021

Tasting notes: A distinctly feminine, gracious expression of Chardonnay emerges from the 2012 Hyde Vineyard. Sweet floral notes lead to bright citrus, green orchard fruit, mint and lemon peel. In 2013, the Hyde is all about delineation and nuance. 

Producer Commentary:
I tasted all of Kistler's 2013s in October 2014, shortly prior to bottling. According to Steve Kistler, the 2013 harvest was two weeks earlier than it was in 2012, which is pretty typical across Sonoma. I found the 2013s to have considerable energy and tension. It will be interesting to see how that translates once the wines have settled down in bottle.
2012 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 2015 - 2020

Tasting notes: The 2012 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard is one of the more exuberant wine in this lineup. Orange peel, mint, butter, smoke and hazelnuts blossom in a warm, burnished Chardonnay built on pure textural depth. With time in the glass, the Hyde shows off its trademark oily, viscous texture, along with tropical-inflected notes that add an exotic flair. Hyde is always about resonance and creaminess, and there is plenty of both in the 2012.

Producer Commentary:
It's fascinating to see how Kistler's 2012 have developed since I tasted them just before bottling. The 2012 Chardonnays seem to have become softer and more open, while the exact opposite has taken place with the Pinot Noirs, all of which are quite a bit firmer and more tannic. My sense is that the 2012 Chardonnays will offer their best drinking sooner rather than later, while the Pinots will reward at least medium-term aging. In other news, Jason Kesner has been promoted to Winemaker, another step in what appears to be a gradual transition as Steve Kistler hands off more day-to-day responsibility to Kesner.
2014 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 92.5

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: The 2014 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard is one of the more immediate wines in this range. Mineral and savory notes dominate over the fruit today. The Hyde is dense and powerful, but not as fully formed as some of the other wines in the lineup.

Producer Commentary:
I tasted a wide range of wines during two recent visits with Steve Kistler, his business partner Mark Bixler, and winemaker Jason Kesner. In 2013, the Chardonnays are more consistent across the board than the Pinots. Yields were naturally high in 2013, largely the result of large berries, which seems to have affected the Pinots more than the Chardonnays. In 2014, it is the exact opposite. Lower yields and small berries helped create ideal conditions for making superb Pinot Noir. The 2014 Chardonnays are more variable than the Pinots today, but better wines suggest there is plenty of latent potential in some of these wines that is not obvious today.
2015 Chardonnay Laguna Ridge
Color: White

Score: 93.5

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: An addition to the range, the 2015 Chardonnay Laguna Ridge is also one of the most subtle wines in the range. In most of these wines, something stands out. In the Laguna Ridge, nothing stands out. A hushed, understated Chardonnay, the Laguna Ridge is likely to only reveal itself with time. Today, it is the wine's total finesse and understatement that is most impressive. Because of the minuscule yields, the entire production consists of 200 cases of magnums. Laguna Ridge has long been one of the fruit sources in the Noisetiers Chardonnay.

Producer Commentary:
Kistler's 2015s are fabulous. Yields were down 25-30% across the board, which gives the wines notable textural richness and intensity. At the same time, acidities stayed high. The interplay of deep fruit and salivating acidity is the key attribute of these wines, and of the vintage more broadly. Two thousand fifteen is the first year in which some of the Pinot lots were done with whole clusters (on the Cuvée Natalie). In 2016, Kistler doubled the number of lots fermented with stems. The bottled 2014s are consistent with how they showed from tank prior to bottling. Readers will not want to miss the 2014 Pinots, as they are fabulous. The 2014 Chardonnays are attractive, but they are also a bit diffuse and not quite as focused as in the very best years. Yields were lower for Pinot Noir than Chardonnay, which may explain why the Pinots have an extra dimension of clarity.
2016 Chardonnay Laguna Ridge
Color: White

Score: 96.0

Drinking window: 2020 - 2028

Tasting notes: The 2016 Chardonnay Laguna Ridge, which is bottled only in magnum, is another highlight in this range. Ample and creamy in the glass, with striking textural richness, the Laguna Ridge is really shows itself to be a wine of distinction and class. Today, it is positively striking.

Producer Commentary:
There is plenty to like in this range of 2016s. Steve Kistler is now fully out from the winery he founded in 1978. My distinct impression is that this will prove to be a very positive development for all parties. Kistler has moved on to Occidental, where he is making wines in a very different style than he did here. At the same time, Jason Kesner, Kistler's successor, has the freedom to update these wines and take them to the next level, which is, frankly, something that is needed after many years of being somewhat stuck stylistically. For example, I have long felt the wines, the Chardonnays in particular, could be more differentiated. Hopefully that is something that will come in time. As for the 2016s, they are all attractive wines that will drink well with minimal cellaring.
2017 Chardonnay Laguna Ridge
Color: White

Score: 95.5

Drinking window: 2021 - 2029

Tasting notes: Easily the biggest wine in this range, the 2017 Chardonnay Laguna Ridge is rich and unctuous in feel. Orange confit, dried flowers, herbs and light honeyed notes all develop in the glass, but it is the wine's oily, waxy feel that is its most distinctive attribute. This is a flamboyant wine from Kistler. Even so, there is plenty of backing structure and enough pedigree to allow it to develop nicely in the cellar. The Laguna Ridge is bottled only in magnum.

Producer Commentary:
Jason Kesner turned out a brilliant set of wines at Kistler in 2017. Yields were quite low because of poor weather during set. Kesner told me he was able to pick almost all his fruit - both Pinot and Chardonnay - before the Labor Day heat, which is rare. Perhaps more importantly, over the last few years, Kesner has moved picking dates up by three days on average, which is considerable, especially for Chardonnay. Today's Kistler wines clearly offer more freshness and nuance than in the past. The 2017s are some of the very finest and most consistent wines I have ever tasted here. Clearly, the wines carry considerable textural richness. and yet they are also distinct and highly expressive of site. The 2017s were all racked from barrel to tank just prior to the 2018 harvest, and bottled in November of that year.
2018 Chardonnay Laguna Ridge (Magnum)
Color: White

Score: 97.0

Drinking window: 2023 - 2030

Tasting notes: The 2018 Chardonnay Laguna Ridge is another dazzling wine in this range. It is also the most energetic, taut Chardonnay in the line-up, qualities that are further amplified by the magnum format used for the entire production. Lemon confit, white flowers, mint and crushed rocks all run through this brilliant, crystalline Chardonnay. Beautifully textured and translucent, with tremendous energy, the Laguna Ridge hits all the right notes. The 2018 is quite simply one of the most memorable wines I have ever tasted at Kistler. Don't miss it. 

Producer Commentary:
This is a terrific set of new releases from Kistler. The 2018 Chardonnays are the most consistently brilliant wines I have ever tasted here. The long, cool growing season gave winemaker Jason Kesner the opportunity to make wines that express the character of site, and that's exactly what comes through. The 2018 Chardonnays are gorgeous wines through which to explore the wide range of vineyards in the Kistler range. I found the 2018 Pinots pretty tight and far less forthcoming than the Chardonnays. These days, Kesner picks more on acidity than fruit ripeness. Consequently, the wines have moved towards a fresher style, and that is amplified in 2018. The wines spent eleven months in barrel (about 40% new wood), followed by three months in tank prior to being bottled.
2013 Chardonnay Les Noisetiers
Color: White

Score: 90.0

Drinking window: 2015 - 2019

Tasting notes: The 2013 Chardonnay Les Noisetiers is a very pretty, appellation-level Chardonnay from Kistler. Apricot jam, flowers, tangerine, hazelnut and almond notes are woven together in a silky, supple Chardonnay built on texture and nuance. The 2012 is an excellent choice for drinking over the next few years. It is also the only Kistler Chardonnay that enters broad distribution. 

Producer Commentary:
It's fascinating to see how Kistler's 2012 have developed since I tasted them just before bottling. The 2012 Chardonnays seem to have become softer and more open, while the exact opposite has taken place with the Pinot Noirs, all of which are quite a bit firmer and more tannic. My sense is that the 2012 Chardonnays will offer their best drinking sooner rather than later, while the Pinots will reward at least medium-term aging. In other news, Jason Kesner has been promoted to Winemaker, another step in what appears to be a gradual transition as Steve Kistler hands off more day-to-day responsibility to Kesner.
2014 Chardonnay Les Noisetiers
Color: White

Score: 91.0

Drinking window: 2016 - 2022

Tasting notes: The 2014 Chardonnay Les Noisetiers is wonderfully open and expressive, with striking aromatics and compelling overall balance. Candied lemon, mint, nutmeg and almonds are nicely layered throughout. This is a gorgeous wine at the appellation-level from Kistler that bodes very well for the single-vineyard offerings.

Producer Commentary:
I tasted a wide range of wines during two recent visits with Steve Kistler, his business partner Mark Bixler, and winemaker Jason Kesner. In 2013, the Chardonnays are more consistent across the board than the Pinots. Yields were naturally high in 2013, largely the result of large berries, which seems to have affected the Pinots more than the Chardonnays. In 2014, it is the exact opposite. Lower yields and small berries helped create ideal conditions for making superb Pinot Noir. The 2014 Chardonnays are more variable than the Pinots today, but better wines suggest there is plenty of latent potential in some of these wines that is not obvious today.
2011 Chardonnay Les Noisetieres
Color: White

Score: 91.0

Drinking window: 2013 - 2018

Tasting notes: The 2011 Chardonnay Les Noisetieres is a wonderful introduction to the Kistler wines. Floral-laced white and yellow orchard fruits jump from the glass in a wine that is surprisingly open and accessible for the year. I especially like the creaminess and expressiveness of the finish. There is a lot to like here. The Noisetieres is by far Kistler's largest production wine and is much more easily available than the vineyard designates. In 2011 it is absolutely delicious.

Producer Commentary:
It is always a pleasure to visit with Steve Kistler and his partner Mark Bixler. The 2011s and 2010s are excellent across the board, although today, I have a preference for the 2011s. Vintage 2011 is shaping up beautifully, for both the Chardonnays and Pinots. As was the case throughout the region, the season was cool and slow to develop. The 2011s were picked at lower sugars than is the norm here, but very much in keeping with the personality of the year. Steve Kistler commented that a poor set in 2011 resulted in the lowest crop loads here in years. Like a lot of his colleagues, Kistler noted that the experiences of 2010 had a huge positive impact in how he responded to similar challenges in 2011. The 2010 Chardonnays are beautiful across the board. Although solid, the 2010 Pinots aren't quite at the level of the superb 2009s and I expect, ultimately, the 2011s. It was a tough vintage for the Pinots. Yields were mercilessly low. Sadly, there is no Cuvee Elizabeth, as the little fruit that came in went into the Kistler Vineyard bottling.
2013 Chardonnay Mc Crea Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 2016 - 2021

Tasting notes: The 2013 Chardonnay McCrea is soft and supple, with lovely mid-palate density and creaminess. Orange peel, mint, spice and chamomile meld together in an expressive Chardonnay that will drink well early. In 2013, the McCrea is a wine of total finesse and class.

Producer Commentary:
I tasted a wide range of wines during two recent visits with Steve Kistler, his business partner Mark Bixler, and winemaker Jason Kesner. In 2013, the Chardonnays are more consistent across the board than the Pinots. Yields were naturally high in 2013, largely the result of large berries, which seems to have affected the Pinots more than the Chardonnays. In 2014, it is the exact opposite. Lower yields and small berries helped create ideal conditions for making superb Pinot Noir. The 2014 Chardonnays are more variable than the Pinots today, but better wines suggest there is plenty of latent potential in some of these wines that is not obvious today.
2016 Chardonnay Mc Crea Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 2019 - 2024

Tasting notes: The 2016 Chardonnay McCrea Vineyard is expressive, creamy and wonderfully open-knit. Savory and phenolic in style, the McCrea has a ton of personality. Dried pear, hazelnut, tangerine, sage, menthol, and smoke all add shades of nuance to this inviting Chardonnay from Kistler. 

Producer Commentary:
There is plenty to like in this range of 2016s. Steve Kistler is now fully out from the winery he founded in 1978. My distinct impression is that this will prove to be a very positive development for all parties. Kistler has moved on to Occidental, where he is making wines in a very different style than he did here. At the same time, Jason Kesner, Kistler's successor, has the freedom to update these wines and take them to the next level, which is, frankly, something that is needed after many years of being somewhat stuck stylistically. For example, I have long felt the wines, the Chardonnays in particular, could be more differentiated. Hopefully that is something that will come in time. As for the 2016s, they are all attractive wines that will drink well with minimal cellaring.
2018 Chardonnay Mc Crea Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 96.0

Drinking window: 2021 - 2028

Tasting notes: The 2018 Chardonnay McCrea Vineyard is gorgeous, and also one of the finest editions I can remember tasting. It is also the first year the McCrea emerges exclusively from the white, chalky soils on the property as previous vintages also included fruit from red soils of volcanic origin. Dried flowers, chamomile, sage, mint, almond and lemon oil give the 2018 striking aromatic and flavor complexity. The 2018 is unbelievably beautiful, but it is not an obvious wine. It is one of the finest editions of the McCrea I can remember tasting.

Producer Commentary:
This is a terrific set of new releases from Kistler. The 2018 Chardonnays are the most consistently brilliant wines I have ever tasted here. The long, cool growing season gave winemaker Jason Kesner the opportunity to make wines that express the character of site, and that's exactly what comes through. The 2018 Chardonnays are gorgeous wines through which to explore the wide range of vineyards in the Kistler range. I found the 2018 Pinots pretty tight and far less forthcoming than the Chardonnays. These days, Kesner picks more on acidity than fruit ripeness. Consequently, the wines have moved towards a fresher style, and that is amplified in 2018. The wines spent eleven months in barrel (about 40% new wood), followed by three months in tank prior to being bottled.
2009 Chardonnay Parmelee Hill Stone Flat Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 2013 - 2019

Tasting notes: The 2009 Chardonnay Parmelee-Hill Stone Flat Vineyard is one of the more structured, mineral-driven wines in this lineup. It shows marvelous focus and length in an energetic style that is immensely appealing. This head spinning Chardonnay boasts tremendous integration of fruit, acidity and overall textural elegance. Give it another year or so in bottle and enjoy over the next few years. 

Producer Commentary:
I was blown away by these wines from Steve Kistler, his partner Mark Bixler and winemaker Jason Kesner. Over the last few years Kistler has refined his approach, as he wasn't totally satisfied by the way some of his earlier wines had developed in bottle. Today Kistler is picking his Chardonnays at lower Brix levels, using less French oak (with no stirring of the lees) and keeping the wines in barrel for a shorter amount of time, all in an effort to preserve as much freshness as possible. The result is wines that are totally different in style from years past. The Pinots see a maximum 50% new oak barrels and that number will continue to trend downwards over the next few years. The 2009 harvest started around September 4th for both Chardonnay and Pinot. The 2009s were bottled in December 2010. Unfortunately, I was not able to taste the 2010s, as they had been bottled just prior to my visit. I will taste those wines in October, 2012. A frequent source of frustration among readers has been the lack of in-the-bottle reviews for Kistler wines. Beginning this year, all wines tasted from barrel will be subsequently reviewed from bottle as well. Readers who haven't tasted the Kistler wines in some time owe it to themselves to do so. These are some of the most thrilling wines being made in California today.
2012 Chardonnay Mc Crea Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 92.0

Drinking window: 2015 - 2019

Tasting notes: Kistler's 2012 Chardonnay McCrea Vineyard is precise, lifted and floral in style. White orchard fruit, flowers, mint and green pears meld together in an open, resonant Chardonnay built on subtlety and raciness. Bright veins of salinity underpin the delicate, expressive finish.

Producer Commentary:
It's fascinating to see how Kistler's 2012 have developed since I tasted them just before bottling. The 2012 Chardonnays seem to have become softer and more open, while the exact opposite has taken place with the Pinot Noirs, all of which are quite a bit firmer and more tannic. My sense is that the 2012 Chardonnays will offer their best drinking sooner rather than later, while the Pinots will reward at least medium-term aging. In other news, Jason Kesner has been promoted to Winemaker, another step in what appears to be a gradual transition as Steve Kistler hands off more day-to-day responsibility to Kesner.
2015 Chardonnay Mc Crea Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 2018 - 2023

Tasting notes: Kistler's 2015 Chardonnay McCrea Vineyard is soft, open-knit and gracious, all of which will make it easy to drink and appreciate upon release. Orchard fruit, dried flowers, chamomile and almond notes grace a subtle, understated Chardonnay that speaks in hushed tones. Today, the McCrea is a bit subdued relative to how it showed from tank.

Producer Commentary:
My most recent visit to Kistler was quite poignant, as it was really emblematic of a new chapter in the history of this illustrious winery. To be sure, many of the recent changes have been in the works for some time. Steve Kistler has now moved on from the winery he founded in 1978 and set up shop at Occidental. Jason Kesner, Kistler's colleague for nearly a decade, has taken over the reins as part of a long-term succession plan that has been in place for many years. Kesner has been in every tasting I have done at Kistler since 2011. His relationship with Steve Kistler goes back quite further, to the days when Kesner was running Hudson Vineyards. Much less expected was the sudden passing of Mark Bixler, Steve Kistler's long-term business partner. Bixler had also been in all of my previous tastings at the winery. The last time I heard from Bixler was in October, right after the wildfires had burned his home. He seemed in good spirits. Then, a few weeks later, he was gone. Life can be so fleeting. As for the wines, 2015 looks more like a Pinot Noir year than a Chardonnay year at Kistler. The 2015 Pinots are off the charts great. Overall, the Chardonnays have good freshness, but the unnaturally compacted, hot growing season and early harvest appear to have attenuated some of the site-specific differences that are typically present in the wines. This seems especially true of the Hyde and Hudson Chardonnays. Readers will note that there is a name change on what was formerly the Kistler Vineyard Pinot Noir. In the past, there was some confusion in naming, because the Kistler Vineyard Chardonnays and Pinot Noir actually were made from different sites, the former from the Kistler Vineyard on Moon Mountain and the latter from the Kistler Vineyard in the Russian River. Going forward, there is no change for the Chardonnays, both of which are still made from the Kistler Vineyard on Moon Mountain. The Russian River Kistler Vineyard has been renamed Laguna Ridge, and is the source of a new Chardonnay as well as the Pinot that was previously named Kistler Vineyard. Ordinarily, I would have also reported on the 2016s prior to botting, but the October fires made that impossible.

(Originally published in Sonoma Preview: January 2018 New Releases)
2014 Chardonnay Mc Crea Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 92.0

Drinking window: 2017 - 2020

Tasting notes: The 2014 Chardonnay McCrea Vineyard is soft, open-knit and expressive, all qualities that make this a good choice for drinking now and over the next few years. Dried pear, almond, savory herbs and dried flowers carry through to the persistent finish. This supple, silky Chardonnay will drink well right out of the gate. 

Producer Commentary:
Kistler's 2015s are fabulous. Yields were down 25-30% across the board, which gives the wines notable textural richness and intensity. At the same time, acidities stayed high. The interplay of deep fruit and salivating acidity is the key attribute of these wines, and of the vintage more broadly. Two thousand fifteen is the first year in which some of the Pinot lots were done with whole clusters (on the Cuvée Natalie). In 2016, Kistler doubled the number of lots fermented with stems. The bottled 2014s are consistent with how they showed from tank prior to bottling. Readers will not want to miss the 2014 Pinots, as they are fabulous. The 2014 Chardonnays are attractive, but they are also a bit diffuse and not quite as focused as in the very best years. Yields were lower for Pinot Noir than Chardonnay, which may explain why the Pinots have an extra dimension of clarity.
2015 Chardonnay Mc Crea Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 93.5

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: One of the highlights in the range, the 2015 Chardonnay McCrea Vineyard is powerful, tightly wound and super-expressive. Intensely savory and mineral, the 2015 has handled the richness of the vintage well. Readers who enjoy rich, phenolic Chardonnays will flip out over the McCrea. Today, it is the wine's structure, energy and overall balance that make it one of the best and most complete wines in this range. 

Producer Commentary:
Kistler's 2015s are fabulous. Yields were down 25-30% across the board, which gives the wines notable textural richness and intensity. At the same time, acidities stayed high. The interplay of deep fruit and salivating acidity is the key attribute of these wines, and of the vintage more broadly. Two thousand fifteen is the first year in which some of the Pinot lots were done with whole clusters (on the Cuvée Natalie). In 2016, Kistler doubled the number of lots fermented with stems. The bottled 2014s are consistent with how they showed from tank prior to bottling. Readers will not want to miss the 2014 Pinots, as they are fabulous. The 2014 Chardonnays are attractive, but they are also a bit diffuse and not quite as focused as in the very best years. Yields were lower for Pinot Noir than Chardonnay, which may explain why the Pinots have an extra dimension of clarity.
2017 Chardonnay Mc Crea Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 2019 - 2027

Tasting notes: The 2017 Chardonnay McCrea Vineyard is superb. Sensual, silky and nuanced, the McCrea is especially fine in 2017. The typical earthy, savory notes that are such signatures of this Sonoma Mountain site are present, but the 2017 also has an extra kick of fruit richness and floral lift that work beautifully in giving the wine an unusual level of complexity. The 2017 McCrea is brilliant and a terrific way to start this tasting. 

Producer Commentary:
Jason Kesner turned out a brilliant set of wines at Kistler in 2017. Yields were quite low because of poor weather during set. Kesner told me he was able to pick almost all his fruit - both Pinot and Chardonnay - before the Labor Day heat, which is rare. Perhaps more importantly, over the last few years, Kesner has moved picking dates up by three days on average, which is considerable, especially for Chardonnay. Today's Kistler wines clearly offer more freshness and nuance than in the past. The 2017s are some of the very finest and most consistent wines I have ever tasted here. Clearly, the wines carry considerable textural richness. and yet they are also distinct and highly expressive of site. The 2017s were all racked from barrel to tank just prior to the 2018 harvest, and bottled in November of that year.
2011 Chardonnay Mccrea Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 2013 - 2020

Tasting notes: The 2011 Chardonnay McCrea Vineyard is all about detail. Subtle, yet expressive yellow orchard fruits meld into floral notes that add lift and freshness. The McCrea impresses for its delineation and nuance. It is a gorgeous wine all around. 

Producer Commentary:
It is always a pleasure to visit with Steve Kistler and his partner Mark Bixler. The 2011s and 2010s are excellent across the board, although today, I have a preference for the 2011s. Vintage 2011 is shaping up beautifully, for both the Chardonnays and Pinots. As was the case throughout the region, the season was cool and slow to develop. The 2011s were picked at lower sugars than is the norm here, but very much in keeping with the personality of the year. Steve Kistler commented that a poor set in 2011 resulted in the lowest crop loads here in years. Like a lot of his colleagues, Kistler noted that the experiences of 2010 had a huge positive impact in how he responded to similar challenges in 2011. The 2010 Chardonnays are beautiful across the board. Although solid, the 2010 Pinots aren't quite at the level of the superb 2009s and I expect, ultimately, the 2011s. It was a tough vintage for the Pinots. Yields were mercilessly low. Sadly, there is no Cuvee Elizabeth, as the little fruit that came in went into the Kistler Vineyard bottling.
2011 Chardonnay Mc Crea Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 92.0

Drinking window: 2014 - 2019

Tasting notes: The 2011 Chardonnay McCrea Vineyard is wonderfully open and expressive for a Chardonnay from this long, cool growing season. Hazelnut, almond, dried pear and a gentle hint of spice flesh out in a resonant Chardonnay to drink now and over the next handful of years. The 2011 is round and layered to the core, with lovely mid-palate pliancy and terrific overall balance.

Producer Commentary:
This is a brilliant set of wines from Steve Kistler and his longtime business partner Mark Bixler. According to Kistler, the cool 2011 vintage had little effect on the Chardonnays, all of which were picked at their levels of ripeness, which as I have written previously, are lower than was the norm up until a few years ago. Sugars were harder to come by in the Pinot Noirs, all of which have lower pHs and a little less ripeness than is typically the case. That may be why the 2011 Pinots were so slow to reveal themselves. All of the 2011s were made with native fermentations and were racked only in preparation for bottling, which was done without fining or filtration. The wines were aged in 50% new oak barrels, mostly from Francois Freres. Readers may be aware that Kistler has been partly owned by an investor group for the last six years. Steve Kistler remains CEO and in charge of day to day operations, but has also begun a new Pinot Noir project, Occidental, which is reviewed separately. Going forward, two of the flagship Kistler Pinots, the Cuvèe Catherine and Cuvèe Elizabeth, will be sold under the Occidental label, so Kistler fans will want to consult those reviews for more information on the wines and the project as a whole. Needless to say, it will be interesting to see what Steve Kistler comes up with in the next phase of what has been a brilliant career.
1999 Chardonnay Mccrea Vineyard Sonoma Mountain
Color: White

Score: 89.5

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Slightly hazy appearance. Aromas of tropical and dried fruits, marzipan, clove and nutmeg. Spicy and citric in the mouth, with mineral and lemon cream flavors framed by racy acidity. Finishes bright and persistent. In a distinctly Chablis-like style, and a bit skinny for a Kistler chardonnay.

Producer Commentary:
Steve Kistler, who told me that he advises his mailing-list customers to enjoy his chardonnays from most vintages within four to six years (in part because there's less free sulfur in his wines today), believes that 1999 has produced wines with longer aging potential. "In '96, '97 and '98 we had to pick late, at high sugars, to get thoroughly ripe flavors. But the '99 fruit ripened at lower sugar levels, and we benefitted from a long harvest. We got the best acids and pHs since 1995." Kistler is generally using less new oak these days: still up to 100% for the Hudson and Hyde wines but as little as 50% to 60% for the rest. And although Kistler believes that a certain amount of grape solids is needed in order for the native yeasts to function well, he has somewhat reduced the percentage of solids in recent years, to around 0.75%. Despite the fact that this winery now produces around 22,000 cases of chardonnay each year, Kistler is strictly hands-on when it comes to pressing the fruit, refusing to delegate this time-consuming but critical task to assistants. "And we're getting better at pressing cooler grapes," Kistler notes. The result of all these small improvements is that today's Kistler chardonnays are silkier and suaver than ever before, and are more likely to avoid the slight phenolic harshness that some wines have shown in past vintage.
2002 Chardonnay Mccrea Vineyard Sonoma Mountain
Color: White

Score: 91.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Full yellow. Slightly reduced aromas of orange oil and lemon peel. Then firm-edged, citric and stony, with lively acidity and good floral lift giving the wine a refreshing character. Finishes dry in a positive way.

Producer Commentary:
I tasted the Kistler 2002s in early March with Steve Kistler's business partner Mark Bixler, who told me that the 2002 harvest lasted from September 5 through 24, with much of the fruit being picked at the beginning of that period."There were not big regional differences in quality in 2002," Bixler reported.This year I was able to taste two pinot noir offerings, and the Cuvee Catherine was among the best Kistler pinots I've tasted to date.Bixler noted that 70% of Kistler's wine now comes from their own vineyards, and that grapes Kistler purchases are bought by the acre, rather than by the ton.
2006 Chardonnay Mccrea Vineyard Sonoma Mountain
Color: White

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Greenish-gold color. Musky peach pit and mango aromas are complicated by smoky minerals and honeysuckle. Firm, tightly focused citrus and dried pit fruit flavors gain weight and gentle sweetness with air, picking up a juicy melon quality. Firm finishing notes of pear skin, tarragon and minerals give this wine a grown-up character.

Producer Commentary:
Steve Kistler works exclusively with traditional California clones for both chardonnay (such as Wente, Hyde and Mount Eden) and pinot noir (Pommard, Swan, Calera) because he believes that the Dijon clones planted in the warmer areas of the North Coast "give fruit opulence but at the expense of the minerality we like." Halfway through this year's tasting it struck me that one would be hard-pressed to find a set of more mineral-driven chardonnays anywhere today, even from Burgundy. Kistler attributes this characteristic to the aforementioned heirloom clones as well as to the fact that he works "in cool, stony vineyards that are moderated by wind and fog and have the right exposures." He told me that in 2006 all of his pinot noir was picked at, or under, 24o Brix, which means less than 13.5% potential alcohol.
2008 Chardonnay Mccrea Vineyard Sonoma Mountain
Color: White

Score: 91.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Bright yellow-gold. White peach, melon and honey on the nose, with a floral nuance that gains strength with air. Round and juicy, offering open-knit honeydew and pit fruit flavors and a touch of honeysuckle. A sneaky note of lemon rind adds cut and firmness to the persistent, sappy finish. This is the most approachable of this year's set of chardonnays.

Producer Commentary:
Steve Kistler and his assistant winemaker Jason Kesner described 2008 as "a vintage where there's very good concentration to the chardonnays but not too much." Kistler told me that his aim was "to get the wines to ferment to truly dry and to never use sugar. Sugar simplifies the fruit," he added, "and if you're trying to get real complexity, much less minerality and finesse, that's going to be very hard to achieve with added sugar." Speaking of finesse, I asked Kistler about the greater precision of his pinot noirs in recent vintages. He told me "it's all part of the fine-tuning to get to where we have expression but not too much weight." He explained that he had shortened the cold soaks of his pinot, "which seems to add lift to their aromas and has increased floral and spice character." Also recommended:
2009 Chardonnay Mccrea Vineyard Sonoma Mountain
Color: White

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Bright gold. High-pitched citrus fruits and white flowers on the perfumed nose, with hints of anise and juniper adding complexity. Racy and tightly focused but also packs a serious punch, offering zesty orange pith, peach pit and lemongrass flavors along with a strong note of iodine. Very clean and spicy on the finish, which leaves notes of chalky minerals and honey behind.

Producer Commentary:
"A great vintage, for both pinot and chardonnay," is how Steve Kistler described 2009 to me. "We got full ripeness and a good quantity of fruit, healthy and fully mature at low Brix levels." By low Brix Kistler means somewhere in the 22 to 23 range. "It's completely possible to make intense, deeply flavored wines at those ripeness levels," he said, adding that he prefers brightness over sheer mass. Kistler added that all of his wines fermented to "bone dry" in 2009, noting that he never adds sugar, acids or enzymes to his wines. He told me that he especially likes the structure imparted by the Calera selection of pinot noir and the minerality achieved by the old Wente clones of chardonnay. He reiterated his feeling that the Dijon clones of both chardonnay and pinot noir don't suit his style as they tend to overcrop and overemphasize fruitiness.
2000 Chardonnay Mccrea Vineyard Sonoma Mountain
Color: White

Score: 92.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Pale lemon-yellow color. Chablis-like aromas of wet stone, lemon cream, nutmeg, mint and minerals. Very ripe in the mouth, with sweet but lively lemon curd and stone fruit flavors. Firm acids frame the strong fruit and give the wine solid structure. Finishes with sneaky length.

Producer Commentary:
The wines here are finer than ever before, mostly avoiding the chewy, phenolic finishes that have long characterized these remarkably rich chardonnays. The level of solids in the wines is now down to 0.75%, according to Steve Kistler, who notes that "there's not a single lot of grapes that I don't press myself." In addition, Kistler is using less new oak today. The top wines in 1997 were 100% new oak, Kistler told me, but the 2000s are typically between 50% and 60%. Kistler described the 2000 vintage as resembling 1999 in that the wines are not overblown and possess good structure. In both years, he added, the flavors developed well at lower sugar levels. In contrast, the three previous vintages all produced chardonnays higher in alcohol.
2001 Chardonnay Mccrea Vineyard Sonoma Mountain
Color: White

Score: 91.5

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Lemon-yellow color with a green tinge. Aromas of lemon, clove, butterscotch and stone. Juicy and tightly wound, with dry, steely, minerally flavors of noteworthy purity. Brisk acids contribute to the wine's characteristic Chablis-like quality. Dry and youthful on the finish. This needs a couple years of additional aging.

Producer Commentary:
Steve Kistler describes 2001 as "a wonderful vintage where the natural yeasts and malolactic bacteria behaved themselves nicely.We were able to sulfur the wines by the first of the new year," he went on. The pHs are in the 3.3 to 3.4 range, as low as in 2000. The wines are delicious now but should last well. There are no blowsy wines, and they show clear differences of vineyard character. I'd suggest drinking them beginning in 2006."Kistler went on to note that his chardonnays have a lower percentage of solids in them than in the past. He's also keeping the musts a bit warmer for the first 48 hours, and he believes that this has helped the yeasts work better. Once again, Kistler showed me only a single 2001 pinot noir, albeit his most important bottling in terms of cases produced.
2010 Chardonnay Mccrea Vineyard Sonoma Mountain
Color: White

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Bright gold. Musky aromas of poached pear, peach pit and nutmeg, with a minerally topnote. Concentrated, fleshy and opulent, showing impressively intense peach and pear skin flavors without coming across as overly weighty. Finishes with excellent clarity and length, leaving a spicy note behind.

Producer Commentary:
Aside from the obvious "stressful growing season and short crop," Steve Kistler is "very pleased with how 2010 has ultimately turned out" for both chardonnay and pinot noir.The coolness of the season encouraged the naturally low pHs and low sugars ("but with full ripeness") that Kistler seeks.According to Kistler, "They had the concentration to quickly and efficiently absorb the oak" and show a spiciness that makes for plenty of immediate appeal.The pinots "have a taut quality" that bodes well for aging, he says, adding that the late season heat spikes were mostly beneficial "if your vineyards were in cold, windy or high altitude spots and you hadn't gone too far with canopy thinning."
2007 Chardonnay Mccrea Vineyard Sonoma Mountain
Color: White

Score: 92.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Greenish gold. Vibrant aromas of pear, lime, powdered stone, mace and nutmeg. At once supple and lively on the palate, with excellent precision to the citrus and orchard fruit flavors. Tightly wound and taut but a few minutes of aeration brings out a sweeter melon quality that carries through a long and sappy finish.

Producer Commentary:
Steve Kistler told me that all of his chardonnays clock in at under 3.4 pH in 2007, and that this is a vintage "that's all about freshness and energy." He also thinks that they will enjoy a slow and positive evolution "because of their dry minerality, which makes them a little stand-offish at this early stage but bodes well for aging." Kistler uses 50% new barriques across the board for all his chardonnays and noted that of course drinkers will notice the oak influence if they consume the wines in the first couple of years after they're bottled. "We're not making wines that are going to show their true hand straight out of the gate," he said. "Some bottle age is necessary for the fermentation character to recede and the terroir to come forward."
2003 Chardonnay Mccrea Vineyard Sonoma Mountain
Color: White

Score: 91.5

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Medium yellow. Fresh nose dominated by lemon and lime. Smooth and quite dry in the mouth, with a strong flavor of dusty stone to go with its citric character. Quite Chablis-like. Impressively structured and long for this bottling, and likely to develop positively in bottle for at least five to seven years.

Producer Commentary:
Steve Kistler was quite excited about the quality of the 2005s, which he feels may be his best wines yet. But he described the 2003s as "rich and high in extract, with excellent structure. "Alcohol levels are in the mid-14s, which is about normal for this producer today. "We started harvesting on the late side, but the harvest took place during a fairly hot period and was more compact than usual," noted Kistler, who considers the 2003s to be a medium- to long-term ager by the standards of his wines. "In 2003 we have acids about as good as we've gotten to date, except for 2005," he told me, "but acids accompanied by thoroughly ripe fruit. "Kistler showed me a couple of very strong pinots at the end of our tasting. He feels he has turned the corner on pinot in 2002 and 2003, through a combination of slightly earlier picking and cooler fermentation temperatures. Still, he noted, whereas "we made red fruit pinots six or seven years ago," (wines he described as more Burgundian in character), "our clients expect to find black fruit flavors in our wines. "
1996 Chardonnay Mccrea Vineyard Sonoma Mountain
Color: White

Score: 92.5

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Unfiltered yellow-gold color. Aromas of dried fruits, clove and hazelnut, with a light sulfidey nuance. Thick and silky, but given shape by firm acids. Tightened up in the glass. The finish starts slowly but builds nicely.

Producer Commentary:
Fans of Kistler chardonnay who are unable to track down this winery scarcer vineyard-designated bottlings should be happy to know that the more widely available Durell and Dutton Ranch chardonnays are both highly successful in '96. The chardonnays here typically get one-half to two-thirds new oak, though Steve Kistler emphasizes that the percentage of new wood varies by the wine and by the vintage. (Kistler Vineyards is one of the largest advance purchasers of Francois Freres barrels in California.) I was unable to taste the '97 chardonnays, as most of these wines were about to be bottled. Pinot noir is growing as a percentage of total Kistler production, but these wines are still extremely limited in the retail marketplace. The '96s I tasted are rare birds for California pinot noir: wines that offer mouthfilling richness and superb depth of flavor while retaining a sappy berry character and avoiding aromas and flavors of overripeness.
2005 Chardonnay Mccrea Vineyard Sonoma Mountain
Color: White

Score: 92.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Bright gold. Vibrant aromas of Meyer lemon, orange and green apple, with subtle lees and toasted bread adding depth. Sappy, chewy citrus and orchard fruit flavors are impressively deep but also lively and fresh, with excellent lift and cut. Tightens up on the finish, with the brisk citrus qualities repeating. There's something ethereal about this precise lightweight.

Producer Commentary:
According to Steve Kistler, "2005 was just a wonderful growing season, with no heat spikes, and the fermentations were textbook, with long malos extending into the spring." He noted that he has cut back on his lees-stirring regimen "to better preserve purity." When I mentioned the depth and intensity of his pinot noirs, he told me that "with the Calera clone, it's easy to get that character," adding that he routinely brings in low yields-for example, less than a ton an acre from Occidental Station in 2005.
2007 Chardonnay Stone Flat Vineyard Sonoma Coast
Color: White

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Bright gold. High-pitched, very pure aromas of Meyer lemon, crushed stone, iodine, white pepper and honeysuckle, with late-arriving notes of quinine and tarragon. Highly concentrated wine, with superb depth and vivacity to its citrus, floral and gripping mineral flavors. This seems as much a solid as a liquid. Its endless finish is strikingly tactile and leaves intense citrus and chalk notes behind.

Producer Commentary:
Steve Kistler told me that all of his chardonnays clock in at under 3.4 pH in 2007, and that this is a vintage "that's all about freshness and energy." He also thinks that they will enjoy a slow and positive evolution "because of their dry minerality, which makes them a little stand-offish at this early stage but bodes well for aging." Kistler uses 50% new barriques across the board for all his chardonnays and noted that of course drinkers will notice the oak influence if they consume the wines in the first couple of years after they're bottled. "We're not making wines that are going to show their true hand straight out of the gate," he said. "Some bottle age is necessary for the fermentation character to recede and the terroir to come forward."
2009 Chardonnay Stone Flat Vineyard Sonoma Coast
Color: White

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Bright gold. Exotic, intensely perfumed aromas of poached pear, anise and chamomile, with a salty topnote. Mineral-accented orchard and citrus fruit flavors show impressive depth and precision, with vibrant ginger and floral qualities and a note of iodine adding to the impression of energy. Finishes extremely long, stony and chewy, leaving intense mineral and spice notes behind.

Producer Commentary:
"A great vintage, for both pinot and chardonnay," is how Steve Kistler described 2009 to me. "We got full ripeness and a good quantity of fruit, healthy and fully mature at low Brix levels." By low Brix Kistler means somewhere in the 22 to 23 range. "It's completely possible to make intense, deeply flavored wines at those ripeness levels," he said, adding that he prefers brightness over sheer mass. Kistler added that all of his wines fermented to "bone dry" in 2009, noting that he never adds sugar, acids or enzymes to his wines. He told me that he especially likes the structure imparted by the Calera selection of pinot noir and the minerality achieved by the old Wente clones of chardonnay. He reiterated his feeling that the Dijon clones of both chardonnay and pinot noir don't suit his style as they tend to overcrop and overemphasize fruitiness.
2006 Chardonnay Stone Flat Vineyard Sonoma Coast
Color: White

Score: 96.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Light gold. A strikingly complex bouquet displays scents of wet stone, iodine, pear, lemon rind and smoked meat. Tightly wound, mineral-driven citrus and orchard fruit flavors completely stain the palate, picking up exotic floral and spice notes with air. The finish resonates with citrus fruit, stones and white flowers and refuses to let up. The '05 version of this was like a Montrachet while this one is a dead-ringer for Chevalier-Montrachet.

Producer Commentary:
Steve Kistler works exclusively with traditional California clones for both chardonnay (such as Wente, Hyde and Mount Eden) and pinot noir (Pommard, Swan, Calera) because he believes that the Dijon clones planted in the warmer areas of the North Coast "give fruit opulence but at the expense of the minerality we like." Halfway through this year's tasting it struck me that one would be hard-pressed to find a set of more mineral-driven chardonnays anywhere today, even from Burgundy. Kistler attributes this characteristic to the aforementioned heirloom clones as well as to the fact that he works "in cool, stony vineyards that are moderated by wind and fog and have the right exposures." He told me that in 2006 all of his pinot noir was picked at, or under, 24o Brix, which means less than 13.5% potential alcohol.
2008 Chardonnay Stone Flat Vineyard Sonoma Coast
Color: White

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Greenish gold. Pungent herbs, nectarine, lemon pith and iodine on the nose. Dense, sappy and savory, with a distinctly spicy quality to its pit and orchard fruit flavors. A serious, densely packed chardonnay that shows zero easy sweetness. Finishes firm, stony and dry, with resonating spiciness and superb length.

Producer Commentary:
Steve Kistler and his assistant winemaker Jason Kesner described 2008 as "a vintage where there's very good concentration to the chardonnays but not too much." Kistler told me that his aim was "to get the wines to ferment to truly dry and to never use sugar. Sugar simplifies the fruit," he added, "and if you're trying to get real complexity, much less minerality and finesse, that's going to be very hard to achieve with added sugar." Speaking of finesse, I asked Kistler about the greater precision of his pinot noirs in recent vintages. He told me "it's all part of the fine-tuning to get to where we have expression but not too much weight." He explained that he had shortened the cold soaks of his pinot, "which seems to add lift to their aromas and has increased floral and spice character." Also recommended:
2005 Chardonnay Stone Flat Vineyard Sonoma Coast
Color: White

Score: 96.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Yellow-gold. Strikingly complex aromas of poached pear, toasted grain, iodine and mineral salts, with a suave floral undertone. Palate-staining citrus and stone fruit flavors offer an uncanny blend of finesse and power, with a expression of smoky minerality that reminded me of a Montrachet from Marc Colin. Refuses to let go of the palate, finally finishing with strong iodine, toasty lees and pear skin qualities. A really extraordinary new wine from Kistler, from eight-year-old vines in the Parmalee-Hill Vineyard, planted on rocky soil in southwest Sonoma, near the Carneros line.

Producer Commentary:
According to Steve Kistler, "2005 was just a wonderful growing season, with no heat spikes, and the fermentations were textbook, with long malos extending into the spring." He noted that he has cut back on his lees-stirring regimen "to better preserve purity." When I mentioned the depth and intensity of his pinot noirs, he told me that "with the Calera clone, it's easy to get that character," adding that he routinely brings in low yields-for example, less than a ton an acre from Occidental Station in 2005.
2010 Chardonnay Stone Flat Vineyard Sonoma Coast
Color: White

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Light gold. Floral- and spice-accented aromas of Meyer lemon, orange and pear skin, with suave smoke and iodine nuances adding complexity. Bright, penetrating citrus and orchard fruit flavors put on weight with air, picking up notes of anise and poached pear. Rich but energetic chardonnay, with strong finishing cut and excellent mineral-driven persistence.

Producer Commentary:
Aside from the obvious "stressful growing season and short crop," Steve Kistler is "very pleased with how 2010 has ultimately turned out" for both chardonnay and pinot noir.The coolness of the season encouraged the naturally low pHs and low sugars ("but with full ripeness") that Kistler seeks.According to Kistler, "They had the concentration to quickly and efficiently absorb the oak" and show a spiciness that makes for plenty of immediate appeal.The pinots "have a taut quality" that bodes well for aging, he says, adding that the late season heat spikes were mostly beneficial "if your vineyards were in cold, windy or high altitude spots and you hadn't gone too far with canopy thinning."
2011 Chardonnay Trenton Roadhouse
Color: White

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 2014 - 2021

Tasting notes: The 2011 Chardonnay Trenton Roadhouse is one of the highlights in this range. Bright, focused and lively, the 2011 flows across the palate with high-toned floral notes, white and green pears, mint and slate. The style is aromatic, lifted and precise throughout, with a level of crystalline purity and translucence that is a marvel to behold. Density, understated power and finesse - all supported by saline minerality - come together in the Trenton Roadhouse. This is much more polished in bottle than it was from tank.

Producer Commentary:
This is a brilliant set of wines from Steve Kistler and his longtime business partner Mark Bixler. According to Kistler, the cool 2011 vintage had little effect on the Chardonnays, all of which were picked at their levels of ripeness, which as I have written previously, are lower than was the norm up until a few years ago. Sugars were harder to come by in the Pinot Noirs, all of which have lower pHs and a little less ripeness than is typically the case. That may be why the 2011 Pinots were so slow to reveal themselves. All of the 2011s were made with native fermentations and were racked only in preparation for bottling, which was done without fining or filtration. The wines were aged in 50% new oak barrels, mostly from Francois Freres. Readers may be aware that Kistler has been partly owned by an investor group for the last six years. Steve Kistler remains CEO and in charge of day to day operations, but has also begun a new Pinot Noir project, Occidental, which is reviewed separately. Going forward, two of the flagship Kistler Pinots, the Cuvèe Catherine and Cuvèe Elizabeth, will be sold under the Occidental label, so Kistler fans will want to consult those reviews for more information on the wines and the project as a whole. Needless to say, it will be interesting to see what Steve Kistler comes up with in the next phase of what has been a brilliant career.
2015 Chardonnay Trenton Roadhouse
Color: White

Score: 91.5

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: The 2015 Chardonnay Trenton Roadhouse is supple, open-knit and giving, all of which will make it easy to enjoy young. A silky, creamy and finely-knit wine with plenty of lemon confit, white flowers and orchard fruit. Today, it comes across as a bit one-dimensional next to the other wines in the lineup.

Producer Commentary:
Kistler's 2015s are fabulous. Yields were down 25-30% across the board, which gives the wines notable textural richness and intensity. At the same time, acidities stayed high. The interplay of deep fruit and salivating acidity is the key attribute of these wines, and of the vintage more broadly. Two thousand fifteen is the first year in which some of the Pinot lots were done with whole clusters (on the Cuvée Natalie). In 2016, Kistler doubled the number of lots fermented with stems. The bottled 2014s are consistent with how they showed from tank prior to bottling. Readers will not want to miss the 2014 Pinots, as they are fabulous. The 2014 Chardonnays are attractive, but they are also a bit diffuse and not quite as focused as in the very best years. Yields were lower for Pinot Noir than Chardonnay, which may explain why the Pinots have an extra dimension of clarity.
2012 Chardonnay Trenton Roadhouse
Color: White

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 2015 - 2022

Tasting notes: The 2012 Chardonnay Trenton Roadhouse is a wine of texture and resonance above all else. A deep, earthy Chardonnay, the Trenton Roadhouse shows off tropical-inflected overtones, with hints of spice and earthiness, all with more than enough creaminess and volume to fill out its broad shouldered frame nicely. The oily, expressive finish is quite attractive. 

Producer Commentary:
This is a brilliant set of wines from Steve Kistler and his longtime business partner Mark Bixler. According to Kistler, the cool 2011 vintage had little effect on the Chardonnays, all of which were picked at their levels of ripeness, which as I have written previously, are lower than was the norm up until a few years ago. Sugars were harder to come by in the Pinot Noirs, all of which have lower pHs and a little less ripeness than is typically the case. That may be why the 2011 Pinots were so slow to reveal themselves. All of the 2011s were made with native fermentations and were racked only in preparation for bottling, which was done without fining or filtration. The wines were aged in 50% new oak barrels, mostly from François Frères. I also tasted the 2012s from tank, just prior to bottling. Today, the wines show terrific balance and tons of potential. I can hardly wait to taste the wines once they are in bottle. Readers may be aware that Kistler has been partly owned by an investor group for the last six years. Steve Kistler remains CEO and in charge of day to day operations, but has also begun a new Pinot Noir project, Occidental, which is reviewed separately. Going forward, two of the flagship Kistler Pinots, the Cuvée Catherine and Cuvée Elizabeth, will be sold under the Occidental label, so Kistler fans will want to consult those reviews for more information on the wines and the project as a whole. Needless to say, it will be interesting to see what Steve Kistler comes up with in the next phase of what has been a brilliant career.
2011 Chardonnay Trenton Roadhouse
Color: White

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 2014 - 2021

Tasting notes: A more broad-shouldered expression of Chardonnay emerges from the 2011 Trenton Roadhouse. Layers of textured, creamy fruit open up beautifully, filling out the wine's large-scaled frame quite nicely. In 2011, the Trenton Roadhouse is a wine of power and intensity. 

Producer Commentary:
It is always a pleasure to visit with Steve Kistler and his partner Mark Bixler. The 2011s and 2010s are excellent across the board, although today, I have a preference for the 2011s. Vintage 2011 is shaping up beautifully, for both the Chardonnays and Pinots. As was the case throughout the region, the season was cool and slow to develop. The 2011s were picked at lower sugars than is the norm here, but very much in keeping with the personality of the year. Steve Kistler commented that a poor set in 2011 resulted in the lowest crop loads here in years. Like a lot of his colleagues, Kistler noted that the experiences of 2010 had a huge positive impact in how he responded to similar challenges in 2011. The 2010 Chardonnays are beautiful across the board. Although solid, the 2010 Pinots aren't quite at the level of the superb 2009s and I expect, ultimately, the 2011s. It was a tough vintage for the Pinots. Yields were mercilessly low. Sadly, there is no Cuvee Elizabeth, as the little fruit that came in went into the Kistler Vineyard bottling.
2012 Chardonnay Trenton Roadhouse
Color: White

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 2015 - 2020

Tasting notes: The 2012 Chardonnay Trenton Roadhouse is one of the richer, creamier wines in the range. Almonds, white flowers and mint blossom in the glass, but it is the bouquet that stands out the most for its high-toned notes and overall sense of lift. 

Producer Commentary:
It's fascinating to see how Kistler's 2012 have developed since I tasted them just before bottling. The 2012 Chardonnays seem to have become softer and more open, while the exact opposite has taken place with the Pinot Noirs, all of which are quite a bit firmer and more tannic. My sense is that the 2012 Chardonnays will offer their best drinking sooner rather than later, while the Pinots will reward at least medium-term aging. In other news, Jason Kesner has been promoted to Winemaker, another step in what appears to be a gradual transition as Steve Kistler hands off more day-to-day responsibility to Kesner.
2017 Chardonnay Trenton Roadhouse
Color: White

Score: 95.5

Drinking window: 2020 - 2029

Tasting notes: One of the more overt wines in the range, the 2017 Chardonnay Trenton Roadhouse is bright, punchy and wonderfully nuanced, with a good deal of phenolic intensity behind the fruit. In the glass, the 2017 has a real sense of structure coming from abnormally low yields. Citrus peel, savory herbs, menthol and dried flowers add shades of nuance to this potent Chardonnay. I would give the 2017 at least another year or two in bottle. 

Producer Commentary:
Jason Kesner turned out a brilliant set of wines at Kistler in 2017. Yields were quite low because of poor weather during set. Kesner told me he was able to pick almost all his fruit - both Pinot and Chardonnay - before the Labor Day heat, which is rare. Perhaps more importantly, over the last few years, Kesner has moved picking dates up by three days on average, which is considerable, especially for Chardonnay. Today's Kistler wines clearly offer more freshness and nuance than in the past. The 2017s are some of the very finest and most consistent wines I have ever tasted here. Clearly, the wines carry considerable textural richness. and yet they are also distinct and highly expressive of site. The 2017s were all racked from barrel to tank just prior to the 2018 harvest, and bottled in November of that year.
2013 Chardonnay Trenton Roadhouse
Color: White

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 2016 - 2021

Tasting notes: The 2013 Chardonnay Trenton Roadhouse is another wine in this range that boasts serious depth and phenolic intensity. The style is dense and extroverted, but also quite backward, as the flavors have not yet fully developed. It will be interesting to see how the 2013 evolves. For now, the early stages of rich, honeyed fruit are just beginning to come through.

Producer Commentary:
I tasted all of Kistler's 2013s in October 2014, shortly prior to bottling. According to Steve Kistler, the 2013 harvest was two weeks earlier than it was in 2012, which is pretty typical across Sonoma. I found the 2013s to have considerable energy and tension. It will be interesting to see how that translates once the wines have settled down in bottle.
2013 Chardonnay Trenton Roadhouse
Color: White

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 2016 - 2021

Tasting notes: One of the more open-knit, forward wines in this lineup, the 2013 Chardonnay Trenton Roadhouse is a terrific choice for drinking over the next handful of years. Yellow orchard fruit, smoke, orange blossom and chamomile are some of the many nuances that flesh out on the generous, inviting finish.

Producer Commentary:
I tasted a wide range of wines during two recent visits with Steve Kistler, his business partner Mark Bixler, and winemaker Jason Kesner. In 2013, the Chardonnays are more consistent across the board than the Pinots. Yields were naturally high in 2013, largely the result of large berries, which seems to have affected the Pinots more than the Chardonnays. In 2014, it is the exact opposite. Lower yields and small berries helped create ideal conditions for making superb Pinot Noir. The 2014 Chardonnays are more variable than the Pinots today, but better wines suggest there is plenty of latent potential in some of these wines that is not obvious today.
2010 Chardonnay Trenton Roadhouse
Color: White

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 2013 - 2018

Tasting notes: Kistler's 2010 Chardonnay Trenton Roadhouse is one of the bigger, richer wines in this lineup, but at the same time, there is a huge center of minerality running in the fruit. Orange blossoms, nectarines and tropical all make an appearance in this striking, total exciting Chardonnay. At times, the Trenton Roadhouse appears to have the structure and frame of a red wine, yet all the elements are in the right place. The 2010 is a wonderfully complete, exciting wine from Steve Kistler. 

Producer Commentary:
It is always a pleasure to visit with Steve Kistler and his partner Mark Bixler. The 2011s and 2010s are excellent across the board, although today, I have a preference for the 2011s. Vintage 2011 is shaping up beautifully, for both the Chardonnays and Pinots. As was the case throughout the region, the season was cool and slow to develop. The 2011s were picked at lower sugars than is the norm here, but very much in keeping with the personality of the year. Steve Kistler commented that a poor set in 2011 resulted in the lowest crop loads here in years. Like a lot of his colleagues, Kistler noted that the experiences of 2010 had a huge positive impact in how he responded to similar challenges in 2011. The 2010 Chardonnays are beautiful across the board. Although solid, the 2010 Pinots aren't quite at the level of the superb 2009s and I expect, ultimately, the 2011s. It was a tough vintage for the Pinots. Yields were mercilessly low. Sadly, there is no Cuvee Elizabeth, as the little fruit that came in went into the Kistler Vineyard bottling.
2018 Chardonnay Trenton Roadhouse
Color: White

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 2021 - 2028

Tasting notes: The 2018 Chardonnay Trenton Roadhouse is wonderfully gracious and expressive. Floral and citrus notes open first, as the layers start to open up with a bit of time in the glass. Like many wines in this range, the Trenton needs time to soften a bit, especially on the finish. Orchard fruit, white flowers and a kiss of French oak linger. 

Producer Commentary:
This is a terrific set of new releases from Kistler. The 2018 Chardonnays are the most consistently brilliant wines I have ever tasted here. The long, cool growing season gave winemaker Jason Kesner the opportunity to make wines that express the character of site, and that's exactly what comes through. The 2018 Chardonnays are gorgeous wines through which to explore the wide range of vineyards in the Kistler range. I found the 2018 Pinots pretty tight and far less forthcoming than the Chardonnays. These days, Kesner picks more on acidity than fruit ripeness. Consequently, the wines have moved towards a fresher style, and that is amplified in 2018. The wines spent eleven months in barrel (about 40% new wood), followed by three months in tank prior to being bottled.
2011 Chardonnay Trenton Roadhouse Sonoma Coast
Color: White

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Bright gold. Vibrant, mineral-accented aromas of orange, nectarine, smoky minerals and honey. Round, sappy and plush but with a firm spine of acidity that lifts the powerful citrus and orchard fruit flavors. Notes of anise and fig build with air and carry through a strikingly long, smoky, focused finish.

Producer Commentary:
In Steve Kistler's view, "the biggest issue with 2011 was anxiety" as people waited and waited for the sun to come out and for things to warm up. "Having 70-degree afternoons in July, in California, makes you concerned, to say the least," he pointed out. That said, the vineyards that Kistler works with are on the cold side anyway, and as the wines here have moved decisively away from the opulent style of a decade ago he and co-owner Mark Bixler find that their '11s fit their model quite well. "Tension, texture and clarity" is the goal for their chardonnays, said Kistler. "If you could get your fruit ripe, which is a function of a lot of factors besides just heat, then elegant, balanced wines that have concentration were absolutely possible." Kistler, who has been making wines here since founding the winery in 1978, has embarked on a new venture called Occidental, which will produce pinot noir sourced from his vineyards on the Sonoma Coast in a new winery, near the town of Bodega. The first wines from this venture, which are being sold through the Kistler mailing list, are reviewed in this article as well, under the winery's name. He continues to oversee vineyard work and winemaking at Kistler and will be working with his daughters Catherine and Elizabeth at Occidental.
2010 Chardonnay Trenton Roadhouse Sonoma Coast
Color: White

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Greenish gold. Fresh orange and pear on the highly fragrant nose, with a bright lemon zest quality adding lift. Pliant, gently sweet citrus and orchard fruit flavors show excellent concentration and provide superb palate coverage. Finishes with great clarity and energy, leaving vibrant mineral and floral notes behind. I suspect that this energetic chardonnay will age very gracefully.

Producer Commentary:
Aside from the obvious "stressful growing season and short crop," Steve Kistler is "very pleased with how 2010 has ultimately turned out" for both chardonnay and pinot noir. The coolness of the season encouraged the naturally low pHs and low sugars ("but with full ripeness") that Kistler seeks. According to Kistler, "They had the concentration to quickly and efficiently absorb the oak" and show a spiciness that makes for plenty of immediate appeal. The pinots "have a taut quality" that bodes well for aging, he says, adding that the late season heat spikes were mostly beneficial "if your vineyards were in cold, windy or high altitude spots and you hadn't gone too far with canopy thinning."
2009 Chardonnay Trenton Roadhouse Sonoma Coast
Color: White

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Green-tinged gold. Bright, mineral-accented aromas of citrus pith, licorice and chalky minerals. Deeply concentrated and lively, offering intense orange, lemon and pear flavors along with suggestions of iodine and smoky lees. The mineral note returns on the very deep, sharply focused finish. This is the inaugural vintage from this sandy site, which comprises 25 acres a few miles due north of the Kistler winery.

Producer Commentary:
"A great vintage, for both pinot and chardonnay," is how Steve Kistler described 2009 to me. "We got full ripeness and a good quantity of fruit, healthy and fully mature at low Brix levels." By low Brix Kistler means somewhere in the 22 to 23 range. "It's completely possible to make intense, deeply flavored wines at those ripeness levels," he said, adding that he prefers brightness over sheer mass. Kistler added that all of his wines fermented to "bone dry" in 2009, noting that he never adds sugar, acids or enzymes to his wines. He told me that he especially likes the structure imparted by the Calera selection of pinot noir and the minerality achieved by the old Wente clones of chardonnay. He reiterated his feeling that the Dijon clones of both chardonnay and pinot noir don't suit his style as they tend to overcrop and overemphasize fruitiness.
2001 Chardonnay Hirsch Vineyard Sonoma Coast
Color: White

Score: 92.5

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Full lemon-yellow, with a green tinge. Highly aromatic, complex nose melds mirabelle, citrus skin, nutmeg and stone. Steely and tightly wound but with its richness already apparent. Dense, tactile chardonnay, with a strong flavor of dusty stone, as well as the complicating sulfidey note characteristic of so many Kistler wines. Finishes quite minerally and structured.

Producer Commentary:
Steve Kistler describes 2001 as "a wonderful vintage where the natural yeasts and malolactic bacteria behaved themselves nicely.We were able to sulfur the wines by the first of the new year," he went on. The pHs are in the 3.3 to 3.4 range, as low as in 2000. The wines are delicious now but should last well. There are no blowsy wines, and they show clear differences of vineyard character. I'd suggest drinking them beginning in 2006."Kistler went on to note that his chardonnays have a lower percentage of solids in them than in the past. He's also keeping the musts a bit warmer for the first 48 hours, and he believes that this has helped the yeasts work better. Once again, Kistler showed me only a single 2001 pinot noir, albeit his most important bottling in terms of cases produced.
2015 Chardonnay Stone Flat Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 91.5

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Kistler's 2015 Chardonnay Stone Flat Vineyard is rich, viscous and intense. Dried pear, apricot, orange blossom, sweet spices and vanillin make a strong opening statement. On the palate, the wine is a bit lighter than the first impression, with good aromatic lift. Pastry, baked apple and mint round things out nicely. The interplay of rich flavors and light to medium-bodied structure is quite appealing. 

Producer Commentary:
Kistler's 2015s are fabulous. Yields were down 25-30% across the board, which gives the wines notable textural richness and intensity. At the same time, acidities stayed high. The interplay of deep fruit and salivating acidity is the key attribute of these wines, and of the vintage more broadly. Two thousand fifteen is the first year in which some of the Pinot lots were done with whole clusters (on the Cuvée Natalie). In 2016, Kistler doubled the number of lots fermented with stems. The bottled 2014s are consistent with how they showed from tank prior to bottling. Readers will not want to miss the 2014 Pinots, as they are fabulous. The 2014 Chardonnays are attractive, but they are also a bit diffuse and not quite as focused as in the very best years. Yields were lower for Pinot Noir than Chardonnay, which may explain why the Pinots have an extra dimension of clarity.
2013 Chardonnay Stone Flat Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 92.5

Drinking window: 2016 - 2021

Tasting notes: Lemon oil, white flowers and almonds are some of the notes that lift from the glass in Kistler's 2013 Chardonnay Stone Flat Vineyard. The flavor are bright, clean and beautifully articulated, with a hidden sense of understated power that is currently lying in the background. It will be interesting to see how much the layers fill out over the coming months. 

Producer Commentary:
I tasted all of Kistler's 2013s in October 2014, shortly prior to bottling. According to Steve Kistler, the 2013 harvest was two weeks earlier than it was in 2012, which is pretty typical across Sonoma. I found the 2013s to have considerable energy and tension. It will be interesting to see how that translates once the wines have settled down in bottle.
2010 Chardonnay Stone Flat Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 2013 - 2020

Tasting notes: Orange blossoms, nectarines, mint and white flowers all make an appearance in the 2010 Chardonnay Stone Flat Vineyard. Hints of graphite, ash and crushed rocks give the Stone Flat an element of minerality and pure tension that is highly appealing. The 2010 is at once rich yet weightless, especially on the finish where the wine turns quite delicate and feminine. 

Producer Commentary:
It is always a pleasure to visit with Steve Kistler and his partner Mark Bixler. The 2011s and 2010s are excellent across the board, although today, I have a preference for the 2011s. Vintage 2011 is shaping up beautifully, for both the Chardonnays and Pinots. As was the case throughout the region, the season was cool and slow to develop. The 2011s were picked at lower sugars than is the norm here, but very much in keeping with the personality of the year. Steve Kistler commented that a poor set in 2011 resulted in the lowest crop loads here in years. Like a lot of his colleagues, Kistler noted that the experiences of 2010 had a huge positive impact in how he responded to similar challenges in 2011. The 2010 Chardonnays are beautiful across the board. Although solid, the 2010 Pinots aren't quite at the level of the superb 2009s and I expect, ultimately, the 2011s. It was a tough vintage for the Pinots. Yields were mercilessly low. Sadly, there is no Cuvee Elizabeth, as the little fruit that came in went into the Kistler Vineyard bottling.
2012 Chardonnay Stone Flat Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 2015 - 2022

Tasting notes: The 2012 Chardonnay Stone Flat Vineyard stands out for its firm backbone, intense minerality and slightly compact personality. Far from an easygoing 2012, the Stone Flat is very much tightly coiled at this stage with intense salinity, expressive yellow-hused stone fruits and a terrific sense of balance.

Producer Commentary:
This is a brilliant set of wines from Steve Kistler and his longtime business partner Mark Bixler. According to Kistler, the cool 2011 vintage had little effect on the Chardonnays, all of which were picked at their levels of ripeness, which as I have written previously, are lower than was the norm up until a few years ago. Sugars were harder to come by in the Pinot Noirs, all of which have lower pHs and a little less ripeness than is typically the case. That may be why the 2011 Pinots were so slow to reveal themselves. All of the 2011s were made with native fermentations and were racked only in preparation for bottling, which was done without fining or filtration. The wines were aged in 50% new oak barrels, mostly from François Frères. I also tasted the 2012s from tank, just prior to bottling. Today, the wines show terrific balance and tons of potential. I can hardly wait to taste the wines once they are in bottle. Readers may be aware that Kistler has been partly owned by an investor group for the last six years. Steve Kistler remains CEO and in charge of day to day operations, but has also begun a new Pinot Noir project, Occidental, which is reviewed separately. Going forward, two of the flagship Kistler Pinots, the Cuvée Catherine and Cuvée Elizabeth, will be sold under the Occidental label, so Kistler fans will want to consult those reviews for more information on the wines and the project as a whole. Needless to say, it will be interesting to see what Steve Kistler comes up with in the next phase of what has been a brilliant career.
2018 Chardonnay Stone Flat Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 96.0

Drinking window: 2020 - 2028

Tasting notes: The 2018 Chardonnay Stone Flat Vineyard is creamy, ample and super-expressive. Lemon confit, white flowers, mint, dried flowers and hazelnut all grace this beautifully layered Chardonnay from Kistler. The freshness of the year really comes through on the finish as floral notes gain in intensity with time in the glass. This is such a complete, gorgeous wine. The Stone Flat emerges from blocks that are now considered part of the Durell Vineyard. It is fascinating to taste the Stone Flat and the Durell together. One of the differences between the two parcels is the choice of rootstocks, with 420a, a devigorating rootstock, used here.

Producer Commentary:
This is a terrific set of new releases from Kistler. The 2018 Chardonnays are the most consistently brilliant wines I have ever tasted here. The long, cool growing season gave winemaker Jason Kesner the opportunity to make wines that express the character of site, and that's exactly what comes through. The 2018 Chardonnays are gorgeous wines through which to explore the wide range of vineyards in the Kistler range. I found the 2018 Pinots pretty tight and far less forthcoming than the Chardonnays. These days, Kesner picks more on acidity than fruit ripeness. Consequently, the wines have moved towards a fresher style, and that is amplified in 2018. The wines spent eleven months in barrel (about 40% new wood), followed by three months in tank prior to being bottled.
2016 Chardonnay Stone Flat Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 2019 - 2026

Tasting notes: The 2016 Chardonnay Stone Flat Vineyard offers notable density while retaining its mid-weight feel and sense of structure. Orchard fruit, dried pear, dried flowers chamomile, smoke and lemon confit add shades of nuance to this pretty and wonderfully expressive Chardonnay. The Stone Flat is another wine in this range that impresses for its impeccable overall balance.

Producer Commentary:
There is plenty to like in this range of 2016s. Steve Kistler is now fully out from the winery he founded in 1978. My distinct impression is that this will prove to be a very positive development for all parties. Kistler has moved on to Occidental, where he is making wines in a very different style than he did here. At the same time, Jason Kesner, Kistler's successor, has the freedom to update these wines and take them to the next level, which is, frankly, something that is needed after many years of being somewhat stuck stylistically. For example, I have long felt the wines, the Chardonnays in particular, could be more differentiated. Hopefully that is something that will come in time. As for the 2016s, they are all attractive wines that will drink well with minimal cellaring.
2014 Chardonnay Stone Flat Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 2017 - 2022

Tasting notes: The 2014 Chardonnay Stone Flat Vineyard is distinctly mineral, earthy and savory in this vintage, with the fruit pushed more into the background. Graphite, autumn leaves, herbs and chamomile add aromatic intrigue. The Stone Flat is distinguished by its striking aromatic complexity and expressive soil-driven tones. 

Producer Commentary:
Kistler's 2015s are fabulous. Yields were down 25-30% across the board, which gives the wines notable textural richness and intensity. At the same time, acidities stayed high. The interplay of deep fruit and salivating acidity is the key attribute of these wines, and of the vintage more broadly. Two thousand fifteen is the first year in which some of the Pinot lots were done with whole clusters (on the Cuvée Natalie). In 2016, Kistler doubled the number of lots fermented with stems. The bottled 2014s are consistent with how they showed from tank prior to bottling. Readers will not want to miss the 2014 Pinots, as they are fabulous. The 2014 Chardonnays are attractive, but they are also a bit diffuse and not quite as focused as in the very best years. Yields were lower for Pinot Noir than Chardonnay, which may explain why the Pinots have an extra dimension of clarity.
2013 Chardonnay Stone Flat Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 2016 - 2023

Tasting notes: Kistler’s 2013 Chardonnay Stone Flat Vineyard is decidedly more vertical in feel than many other wines in the range. Phenolic intensity plays off a set of bright aromas and flavors, which makes for a complete and intriguing wine. A long, extended finish only adds to the wine’s considerable appeal. The Stone Flat is a gorgeous, complete wine, but it also needs a year or two to be at its best. This is an especially strong showing for the Stone Flat.

Producer Commentary:
I tasted a wide range of wines during two recent visits with Steve Kistler, his business partner Mark Bixler, and winemaker Jason Kesner. In 2013, the Chardonnays are more consistent across the board than the Pinots. Yields were naturally high in 2013, largely the result of large berries, which seems to have affected the Pinots more than the Chardonnays. In 2014, it is the exact opposite. Lower yields and small berries helped create ideal conditions for making superb Pinot Noir. The 2014 Chardonnays are more variable than the Pinots today, but better wines suggest there is plenty of latent potential in some of these wines that is not obvious today.
2011 Pinot Noir Bodega Headlands Cuvee Elizabeth
Color: Red

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 2013 - 2018

Tasting notes: The 2011 Pinot Noir Bodega Headlands Cuvee Elizabeth comes across as cool and inward, reflecting the personality of this site. It is another wine that appears to have considerable potential, as there is plenty of persistence in the glass. Today, the Cuvee Elizabeth is not as expressive as the Cuvee Catherine, but it is very pretty just the same.

Producer Commentary:
It is always a pleasure to visit with Steve Kistler and his partner Mark Bixler. The 2011s and 2010s are excellent across the board, although today, I have a preference for the 2011s. Vintage 2011 is shaping up beautifully, for both the Chardonnays and Pinots. As was the case throughout the region, the season was cool and slow to develop. The 2011s were picked at lower sugars than is the norm here, but very much in keeping with the personality of the year. Steve Kistler commented that a poor set in 2011 resulted in the lowest crop loads here in years. Like a lot of his colleagues, Kistler noted that the experiences of 2010 had a huge positive impact in how he responded to similar challenges in 2011. The 2010 Chardonnays are beautiful across the board. Although solid, the 2010 Pinots aren't quite at the level of the superb 2009s and I expect, ultimately, the 2011s. It was a tough vintage for the Pinots. Yields were mercilessly low. Sadly, there is no Cuvee Elizabeth, as the little fruit that came in went into the Kistler Vineyard bottling.
2013 Chardonnay Vine Hill Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 2016 - 2021

Tasting notes: The 2013 Chardonnay Vine Hill is one of the more aromatic, lifted wines in this range. Gracious and delicate to the core, the 2013 is quite understated in this vintage, perhaps because the slightly higher than normal yields bring out more of the floral signatures of this site than is typically the case.

Producer Commentary:
I tasted a wide range of wines during two recent visits with Steve Kistler, his business partner Mark Bixler, and winemaker Jason Kesner. In 2013, the Chardonnays are more consistent across the board than the Pinots. Yields were naturally high in 2013, largely the result of large berries, which seems to have affected the Pinots more than the Chardonnays. In 2014, it is the exact opposite. Lower yields and small berries helped create ideal conditions for making superb Pinot Noir. The 2014 Chardonnays are more variable than the Pinots today, but better wines suggest there is plenty of latent potential in some of these wines that is not obvious today.
2018 Chardonnay Vine Hill Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 96.0

Drinking window: 2021 - 2028

Tasting notes: The 2018 Chardonnay Vine Hill Vineyard is another stellar wine in this range. The natural richness of these 30+-year-old vines on AxR rootstock comes through loud and clear. Lemon confit, butter, spice, apricot and lightly honeyed notes all grace this wonderfully inviting, Chardonnay. The Vine Hill, from the Kistler winery property in the Russian River Valley, is another wine that eloquently captures the essence of site.

Producer Commentary:
This is a terrific set of new releases from Kistler. The 2018 Chardonnays are the most consistently brilliant wines I have ever tasted here. The long, cool growing season gave winemaker Jason Kesner the opportunity to make wines that express the character of site, and that's exactly what comes through. The 2018 Chardonnays are gorgeous wines through which to explore the wide range of vineyards in the Kistler range. I found the 2018 Pinots pretty tight and far less forthcoming than the Chardonnays. These days, Kesner picks more on acidity than fruit ripeness. Consequently, the wines have moved towards a fresher style, and that is amplified in 2018. The wines spent eleven months in barrel (about 40% new wood), followed by three months in tank prior to being bottled.
2009 Chardonnay Vine Hill Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 2013 - 2019

Tasting notes: The 2009 Chardonnay Vine Hill Vineyard comes across a bit inward and less expressive than the other wines in the collection. Scents of lemon, almonds and pastry emerge from the glass. The overall impression is of a small-scaled wine that, while quite pretty, lacks the visceral thrill of the top wines here. 

Producer Commentary:
I was blown away by these wines from Steve Kistler, his partner Mark Bixler and winemaker Jason Kesner. Over the last few years Kistler has refined his approach, as he wasn't totally satisfied by the way some of his earlier wines had developed in bottle. Today Kistler is picking his Chardonnays at lower Brix levels, using less French oak (with no stirring of the lees) and keeping the wines in barrel for a shorter amount of time, all in an effort to preserve as much freshness as possible. The result is wines that are totally different in style from years past. The Pinots see a maximum 50% new oak barrels and that number will continue to trend downwards over the next few years. The 2009 harvest started around September 4th for both Chardonnay and Pinot. The 2009s were bottled in December 2010. Unfortunately, I was not able to taste the 2010s, as they had been bottled just prior to my visit. I will taste those wines in October, 2012. A frequent source of frustration among readers has been the lack of in-the-bottle reviews for Kistler wines. Beginning this year, all wines tasted from barrel will be subsequently reviewed from bottle as well. Readers who haven't tasted the Kistler wines in some time owe it to themselves to do so. These are some of the most thrilling wines being made in California today.
2017 Chardonnay Vine Hill Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 96.0

Drinking window: 2020 - 2027

Tasting notes: The 2017 Chardonnay Vine Hill Vineyard, from Kistler's estate ranch in Sebastopol, is subtle, nuanced and incredibly classy. In this tasting, the Vine Hill is silky and lifted, with striking nuance and exceptional balance. Lemon confit, white flowers and mint, along with the wine’s mid-weight feel, speak to elegance above all else. Bright saline notes punctuate the finish. The Vine Hill is a modern-day classic Kistler Chardonnay.

Producer Commentary:
Jason Kesner turned out a brilliant set of wines at Kistler in 2017. Yields were quite low because of poor weather during set. Kesner told me he was able to pick almost all his fruit - both Pinot and Chardonnay - before the Labor Day heat, which is rare. Perhaps more importantly, over the last few years, Kesner has moved picking dates up by three days on average, which is considerable, especially for Chardonnay. Today's Kistler wines clearly offer more freshness and nuance than in the past. The 2017s are some of the very finest and most consistent wines I have ever tasted here. Clearly, the wines carry considerable textural richness. and yet they are also distinct and highly expressive of site. The 2017s were all racked from barrel to tank just prior to the 2018 harvest, and bottled in November of that year.
2012 Chardonnay Vine Hill Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: The 2012 Chardonnay Vine Hill Vineyard is one of the most distinctive Chardonnays in this range. A real sense of vertical structure runs through the wine, conveying an impression of vitality and energy. Orange blossom, mint, apricot pit, lemon oil, white pepper and lightly honeyed notes lead to a super-expressive finish. 

Producer Commentary:
It's fascinating to see how Kistler's 2012 have developed since I tasted them just before bottling. The 2012 Chardonnays seem to have become softer and more open, while the exact opposite has taken place with the Pinot Noirs, all of which are quite a bit firmer and more tannic. My sense is that the 2012 Chardonnays will offer their best drinking sooner rather than later, while the Pinots will reward at least medium-term aging. In other news, Jason Kesner has been promoted to Winemaker, another step in what appears to be a gradual transition as Steve Kistler hands off more day-to-day responsibility to Kesner.
2015 Chardonnay Vine Hill Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 93.5

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: The 2015 Chardonnay Vine Hill Vineyard is powerful, tightly wound and reticent. Here the flavors are bright, focused and finely sculpted throughout. Lemon zest, white flowers, chalk and white pepper all give the 2015 its saline, pointed personality. I very much like the sense of energy here. 

Producer Commentary:
Kistler's 2015s are fabulous. Yields were down 25-30% across the board, which gives the wines notable textural richness and intensity. At the same time, acidities stayed high. The interplay of deep fruit and salivating acidity is the key attribute of these wines, and of the vintage more broadly. Two thousand fifteen is the first year in which some of the Pinot lots were done with whole clusters (on the Cuvée Natalie). In 2016, Kistler doubled the number of lots fermented with stems. The bottled 2014s are consistent with how they showed from tank prior to bottling. Readers will not want to miss the 2014 Pinots, as they are fabulous. The 2014 Chardonnays are attractive, but they are also a bit diffuse and not quite as focused as in the very best years. Yields were lower for Pinot Noir than Chardonnay, which may explain why the Pinots have an extra dimension of clarity.
2010 Chardonnay Vine Hill Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 2013 - 2020

Tasting notes: The 2010 Chardonnay Vine Hill Vineyard is another wine with superb aromatic presence. Silky and gracious on the palate, the 2010 stands out for its pure balance and harmony. Absolutely nothing is out of place. Sweet, beautifully articulated fruit, expressive aromas and a silky finish round out the impeccable Vine Hill Chardonnay. This is a wine of total finesse. 

Producer Commentary:
It is always a pleasure to visit with Steve Kistler and his partner Mark Bixler. The 2011s and 2010s are excellent across the board, although today, I have a preference for the 2011s. Vintage 2011 is shaping up beautifully, for both the Chardonnays and Pinots. As was the case throughout the region, the season was cool and slow to develop. The 2011s were picked at lower sugars than is the norm here, but very much in keeping with the personality of the year. Steve Kistler commented that a poor set in 2011 resulted in the lowest crop loads here in years. Like a lot of his colleagues, Kistler noted that the experiences of 2010 had a huge positive impact in how he responded to similar challenges in 2011. The 2010 Chardonnays are beautiful across the board. Although solid, the 2010 Pinots aren't quite at the level of the superb 2009s and I expect, ultimately, the 2011s. It was a tough vintage for the Pinots. Yields were mercilessly low. Sadly, there is no Cuvee Elizabeth, as the little fruit that came in went into the Kistler Vineyard bottling.
2014 Chardonnay Vine Hill Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 2017 - 2024

Tasting notes: Kistler's 2014 Chardonnay Vine Hill Vineyard has a real sense of density that distinguishes it from the other wines from Goldridge soils (Trenton Roadhouse and Dutton) in this range. Poised, deep and also gracious - as all the wines are in this vintage - the Vine Hill is wonderfully complete. This is another impeccable, if somewhat restrained, Chardonnay from Kistler. In 2014, this site was dry farmed.

Producer Commentary:
Kistler's 2015s are fabulous. Yields were down 25-30% across the board, which gives the wines notable textural richness and intensity. At the same time, acidities stayed high. The interplay of deep fruit and salivating acidity is the key attribute of these wines, and of the vintage more broadly. Two thousand fifteen is the first year in which some of the Pinot lots were done with whole clusters (on the Cuvée Natalie). In 2016, Kistler doubled the number of lots fermented with stems. The bottled 2014s are consistent with how they showed from tank prior to bottling. Readers will not want to miss the 2014 Pinots, as they are fabulous. The 2014 Chardonnays are attractive, but they are also a bit diffuse and not quite as focused as in the very best years. Yields were lower for Pinot Noir than Chardonnay, which may explain why the Pinots have an extra dimension of clarity.
2008 Pinot Noir Bodega Headlands Cuvee Elizabeth Sonoma Coast
Color: Red

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Lurid ruby. Complex, deeply spicy aromas of raspberry, fresh flowers, white pepper and Asian spices; showing a really exotic character. Then impressively concentrated and rich, but with energetic lift to its sweet red fruit preserve and floral pastille flavors. Wonderfully suave and high-pitched pinot with a vibrant, very persistent finish that refuses to let up. 

Producer Commentary:
Steve Kistler and his assistant winemaker Jason Kesner described 2008 as "a vintage where there's very good concentration to the chardonnays but not too much." Kistler told me that his aim was "to get the wines to ferment to truly dry and to never use sugar. Sugar simplifies the fruit," he added, "and if you're trying to get real complexity, much less minerality and finesse, that's going to be very hard to achieve with added sugar." Speaking of finesse, I asked Kistler about the greater precision of his pinot noirs in recent vintages. He told me "it's all part of the fine-tuning to get to where we have expression but not too much weight." He explained that he had shortened the cold soaks of his pinot, "which seems to add lift to their aromas and has increased floral and spice character." Also recommended:
2006 Pinot Noir Bodega Headlands Cuvee Elizabeth Sonoma Coast
Color: Red

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Deep red. Energetic red and dark berries on the nose, with sexy notes of potpourri and blood orange adding complexity. Lively raspberry and blackberry flavors stain the palate, taking on a richer mocha quality on the back. The red fruit repeats strongly on the strikingly pure and precise finish. An impressively tangy, pure expression of pinot, with the balance and intensity to reward cellaring. 

Producer Commentary:
Steve Kistler works exclusively with traditional California clones for both chardonnay (such as Wente, Hyde and Mount Eden) and pinot noir (Pommard, Swan, Calera) because he believes that the Dijon clones planted in the warmer areas of the North Coast "give fruit opulence but at the expense of the minerality we like." Halfway through this year's tasting it struck me that one would be hard-pressed to find a set of more mineral-driven chardonnays anywhere today, even from Burgundy. Kistler attributes this characteristic to the aforementioned heirloom clones as well as to the fact that he works "in cool, stony vineyards that are moderated by wind and fog and have the right exposures." He told me that in 2006 all of his pinot noir was picked at, or under, 24o Brix, which means less than 13.5% potential alcohol.
2005 Pinot Noir Bodega Headlands Cuvee Elizabeth Sonoma Coast
Color: Red

Score: 92.5

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Ruby-red. Earthy, mineral-driven bouquet reminded me of a Graves wine, with cherry and dark berry aromas complicated by fresh blood, smoked meat and dried rose. Deep, spicy flavors of sweet cherry and blackberry are given shape and grip by dusty tannins. Really intriguing wine, with serious depth and structure. This is utterly singular pinot noir, but I'm not sure I would have guessed the variety. This vineyard sits on a ridge right by the ocean. 

Producer Commentary:
According to Steve Kistler, "2005 was just a wonderful growing season, with no heat spikes, and the fermentations were textbook, with long malos extending into the spring." He noted that he has cut back on his lees-stirring regimen "to better preserve purity." When I mentioned the depth and intensity of his pinot noirs, he told me that "with the Calera clone, it's easy to get that character," adding that he routinely brings in low yields-for example, less than a ton an acre from Occidental Station in 2005.
2011 Chardonnay Vine Hill Vineyard Russian River Valley
Color: White

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Bright gold. Smoky pear, honey and iodine on the nose, along with a suave building floral quality. Dried pear and peach skin flavors are braced by tangy acidity and take a brighter turn with air, picking up Meyer lemon and ginger nuances. Shows excellent clarity and lift on the back end, leaving notes of smoky minerals and candied orange peel behind.

Producer Commentary:
In Steve Kistler's view, "the biggest issue with 2011 was anxiety" as people waited and waited for the sun to come out and for things to warm up."Having 70-degree afternoons in July, in California, makes you concerned, to say the least," he pointed out.That said, the vineyards that Kistler works with are on the cold side anyway, and as the wines here have moved decisively away from the opulent style of a decade ago he and co-owner Mark Bixler find that their '11s fit their model quite well."Tension, texture and clarity" is the goal for their chardonnays, said Kistler."If you could get your fruit ripe, which is a function of a lot of factors besides just heat, then elegant, balanced wines that have concentration were absolutely possible." Kistler, who has been making wines here since founding the winery in 1978, has embarked on a new venture called Occidental, which will produce pinot noir sourced from his vineyards on the Sonoma Coast in a new winery, near the town of Bodega. The first wines from this venture, which are being sold through the Kistler mailing list, are reviewed in this article as well, under the winery's name. He continues to oversee vineyard work and winemaking at Kistler and will be working with his daughters Catherine and Elizabeth at Occidental.
2002 Chardonnay Vine Hill Vineyard Russian River Valley
Color: White

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Bright, pale medium yellow. Captivating nose combines grapefruit, underripe pineapple, crushed stone and musky baking spices. Then rich and lush yet sharply delineated on the palate, with very dry flavors of pineapple, spices and stone. A very rich chardonnay that's still a bit youthfully subdued. Finishes long, ripe and dry, with a flavor of dusty stone.

Producer Commentary:
I tasted the Kistler 2002s in early March with Steve Kistler's business partner Mark Bixler, who told me that the 2002 harvest lasted from September 5 through 24, with much of the fruit being picked at the beginning of that period."There were not big regional differences in quality in 2002," Bixler reported.This year I was able to taste two pinot noir offerings, and the Cuvee Catherine was among the best Kistler pinots I've tasted to date.Bixler noted that 70% of Kistler's wine now comes from their own vineyards, and that grapes Kistler purchases are bought by the acre, rather than by the ton.
2005 Chardonnay Vine Hill Vineyard Russian River Valley
Color: White

Score: 92.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Bright gold. Vibrant, densely fruity aromas of melon, peach and yellow apple. Fresher citrus and Anjou pear flavors offer impressive depth and energy, picking up dusty minerals with air. Finishes with excellent lift and a lingering echo of orchard fruits. Much more fruit-dominated than Kistler's other chardonnays this year.

Producer Commentary:
According to Steve Kistler, "2005 was just a wonderful growing season, with no heat spikes, and the fermentations were textbook, with long malos extending into the spring." He noted that he has cut back on his lees-stirring regimen "to better preserve purity." When I mentioned the depth and intensity of his pinot noirs, he told me that "with the Calera clone, it's easy to get that character," adding that he routinely brings in low yields-for example, less than a ton an acre from Occidental Station in 2005.
1999 Chardonnay Vine Hill Vineyard Russian River Valley
Color: White

Score: 93.5

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Pale golden yellow. Orange blossom, tangerine, nuts and a whiff of dried apricot on the nose. Less complex in the mouth than the Hyde bottling but densely packed and strong for this wine, with a lipsmacking sugar/acid balance. The lively acids give the soft citrus flavors terrific verve. Bright and long on the back end.

Producer Commentary:
Steve Kistler, who told me that he advises his mailing-list customers to enjoy his chardonnays from most vintages within four to six years (in part because there's less free sulfur in his wines today), believes that 1999 has produced wines with longer aging potential. "In '96, '97 and '98 we had to pick late, at high sugars, to get thoroughly ripe flavors. But the '99 fruit ripened at lower sugar levels, and we benefitted from a long harvest. We got the best acids and pHs since 1995." Kistler is generally using less new oak these days: still up to 100% for the Hudson and Hyde wines but as little as 50% to 60% for the rest. And although Kistler believes that a certain amount of grape solids is needed in order for the native yeasts to function well, he has somewhat reduced the percentage of solids in recent years, to around 0.75%. Despite the fact that this winery now produces around 22,000 cases of chardonnay each year, Kistler is strictly hands-on when it comes to pressing the fruit, refusing to delegate this time-consuming but critical task to assistants. "And we're getting better at pressing cooler grapes," Kistler notes. The result of all these small improvements is that today's Kistler chardonnays are silkier and suaver than ever before, and are more likely to avoid the slight phenolic harshness that some wines have shown in past vintage.
2000 Chardonnay Vine Hill Vineyard Russian River Valley
Color: White

Score: 91.5

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Bright, pale color. Tightly wound but pure aromas of lemon, flowers, mint, toasted grain, iodine and nutmeg. Round and seamless but with firm underlying structure; taut, classy, stony chardonnay, a step up in intensity and length from the Dutton.

Producer Commentary:
The wines here are finer than ever before, mostly avoiding the chewy, phenolic finishes that have long characterized these remarkably rich chardonnays. The level of solids in the wines is now down to 0.75%, according to Steve Kistler, who notes that "there's not a single lot of grapes that I don't press myself." In addition, Kistler is using less new oak today. The top wines in 1997 were 100% new oak, Kistler told me, but the 2000s are typically between 50% and 60%. Kistler described the 2000 vintage as resembling 1999 in that the wines are not overblown and possess good structure. In both years, he added, the flavors developed well at lower sugar levels. In contrast, the three previous vintages all produced chardonnays higher in alcohol.
2010 Chardonnay Vine Hill Vineyard Russian River Valley
Color: White

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Green-hued yellow. Intense, mineral-accented aromas of lemon curd, orange, toasty lees, iodine and mace. Sappy, sharply focused citrus fruit and bitter pear skin flavors are lifted by a smoky mineral quality and pick up ginger and anise nuances with air. Chewy, gripping and precise on the very long, mineral-driven finish.

Producer Commentary:
Aside from the obvious "stressful growing season and short crop," Steve Kistler is "very pleased with how 2010 has ultimately turned out" for both chardonnay and pinot noir. The coolness of the season encouraged the naturally low pHs and low sugars ("but with full ripeness") that Kistler seeks. According to Kistler, "They had the concentration to quickly and efficiently absorb the oak" and show a spiciness that makes for plenty of immediate appeal. The pinots "have a taut quality" that bodes well for aging, he says, adding that the late season heat spikes were mostly beneficial "if your vineyards were in cold, windy or high altitude spots and you hadn't gone too far with canopy thinning."
1996 Chardonnay Vine Hill Vineyard Russian River Valley
Color: White

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Slightly hazy green-tinged pale gold. Very complex, leesy aromas of tarragon, apricot pit, orange peel and honey. Large-scaled and broad but also round and nicely filled in; at once expansive and light on its feet. Began quite dry and uncompromising but opened to show lovely ripeness and a slow-mounting, fruit-driven finish. Bright note of lime on the aftertaste.

Producer Commentary:
Fans of Kistler chardonnay who are unable to track down this winery scarcer vineyard-designated bottlings should be happy to know that the more widely available Durell and Dutton Ranch chardonnays are both highly successful in '96. The chardonnays here typically get one-half to two-thirds new oak, though Steve Kistler emphasizes that the percentage of new wood varies by the wine and by the vintage. (Kistler Vineyards is one of the largest advance purchasers of Francois Freres barrels in California.) I was unable to taste the '97 chardonnays, as most of these wines were about to be bottled. Pinot noir is growing as a percentage of total Kistler production, but these wines are still extremely limited in the retail marketplace. The '96s I tasted are rare birds for California pinot noir: wines that offer mouthfilling richness and superb depth of flavor while retaining a sappy berry character and avoiding aromas and flavors of overripeness.
1998 Chardonnay Vine Hill Vineyard Russian River Valley
Color: White

Score: 93.5

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Subdued but pure aromas of apple, apricot and nuts. Thick and rich, but vibrant and sharply delineated, with flavors of spiced apple and minerals. This already boasts terrific breadth, but there more complexity to come. Expanding finish shows terrific persistence.

Producer Commentary:
2006 Chardonnay Vine Hill Vineyard Russian River Valley
Color: White

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Bright gold. Flamboyantly perfumed bouquet of pear, blood orange, smoky minerals, saffron and yellow rose, with a suave overlay of oak spice. Completely stains the palate with deeply concentrated citrus and orchard fruit flavors, gaining an exotic licorice quality with air. Fleshy but focused, with excellent finishing clarity and mineral thrust. For a big boy, this is surprisingly lithe.

Producer Commentary:
Steve Kistler works exclusively with traditional California clones for both chardonnay (such as Wente, Hyde and Mount Eden) and pinot noir (Pommard, Swan, Calera) because he believes that the Dijon clones planted in the warmer areas of the North Coast "give fruit opulence but at the expense of the minerality we like." Halfway through this year's tasting it struck me that one would be hard-pressed to find a set of more mineral-driven chardonnays anywhere today, even from Burgundy. Kistler attributes this characteristic to the aforementioned heirloom clones as well as to the fact that he works "in cool, stony vineyards that are moderated by wind and fog and have the right exposures." He told me that in 2006 all of his pinot noir was picked at, or under, 24o Brix, which means less than 13.5% potential alcohol.
2009 Chardonnay Vine Hill Vineyard Russian River Valley
Color: White

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Vivid gold. Lively, mineral-dominated aromas of candied citrus fruits, pear and ginger, with a smoky nuance building with air. Rich and expansive but very dry, offering palate-staining orange and pear skin flavors lifted by vibrant mineral and floral notes. Closes with excellent clarity and cut; there's zero excess fat here.

Producer Commentary:
"A great vintage, for both pinot and chardonnay," is how Steve Kistler described 2009 to me. "We got full ripeness and a good quantity of fruit, healthy and fully mature at low Brix levels." By low Brix Kistler means somewhere in the 22 to 23 range. "It's completely possible to make intense, deeply flavored wines at those ripeness levels," he said, adding that he prefers brightness over sheer mass. Kistler added that all of his wines fermented to "bone dry" in 2009, noting that he never adds sugar, acids or enzymes to his wines. He told me that he especially likes the structure imparted by the Calera selection of pinot noir and the minerality achieved by the old Wente clones of chardonnay. He reiterated his feeling that the Dijon clones of both chardonnay and pinot noir don't suit his style as they tend to overcrop and overemphasize fruitiness.
2001 Chardonnay Vine Hill Vineyard Russian River Valley
Color: White

Score: 93.5

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Less bright yellow than the Hudson. Reticent, pure aromas of minerals, menthol and truffle. Concentrated, precise, minerally and tactile, but still tightly wound. Very juicy, dry and sharply delineated chardonnay, finishing quite long and a bit austere. Offers terrific potential. From very poor soils, notes Kistler, who says the structure of this wine resembles that of the McCrea.

Producer Commentary:
Steve Kistler describes 2001 as "a wonderful vintage where the natural yeasts and malolactic bacteria behaved themselves nicely.We were able to sulfur the wines by the first of the new year," he went on. The pHs are in the 3.3 to 3.4 range, as low as in 2000. The wines are delicious now but should last well. There are no blowsy wines, and they show clear differences of vineyard character. I'd suggest drinking them beginning in 2006."Kistler went on to note that his chardonnays have a lower percentage of solids in them than in the past. He's also keeping the musts a bit warmer for the first 48 hours, and he believes that this has helped the yeasts work better. Once again, Kistler showed me only a single 2001 pinot noir, albeit his most important bottling in terms of cases produced.
2008 Chardonnay Vine Hill Vineyard Russian River Valley
Color: White

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Greenish gold. Highly complex, mineral-driven aromas of fresh nectarine, citrus pith and iodine, along with a hint of smokiness. Supple, broad and impressively concentrated, with pit fruit and mineral flavors showing serious depth and firm acidity adding spine. Boasts an oily, mouthfilling texture but carries no excess weight and finishes with excellent persistence and a firm edge of acidity.

Producer Commentary:
Steve Kistler and his assistant winemaker Jason Kesner described 2008 as "a vintage where there's very good concentration to the chardonnays but not too much." Kistler told me that his aim was "to get the wines to ferment to truly dry and to never use sugar. Sugar simplifies the fruit," he added, "and if you're trying to get real complexity, much less minerality and finesse, that's going to be very hard to achieve with added sugar." Speaking of finesse, I asked Kistler about the greater precision of his pinot noirs in recent vintages. He told me "it's all part of the fine-tuning to get to where we have expression but not too much weight." He explained that he had shortened the cold soaks of his pinot, "which seems to add lift to their aromas and has increased floral and spice character." Also recommended:
2007 Chardonnay Vine Hill Vineyard Russian River Valley
Color: White

Score: 92.5

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Yellow-gold. Ripe aromas of peach and spice, with hints of exotic fruits and a slow-building citrus quality. Fleshy, dense and spicy, with a firm acid spine keeping the wine's exotic fruit in check. There's an alluring silkiness of texture here and an unlikely interplay of ripe fruit and nervy minerality. A bit tough to judge right now; I suspect that a few more months of bottle age will allow this to knit. Kistler told me that this has a pH of just over 3.2, making it the lowest among his 2007 chardonnays.

Producer Commentary:
Steve Kistler told me that all of his chardonnays clock in at under 3.4 pH in 2007, and that this is a vintage "that's all about freshness and energy." He also thinks that they will enjoy a slow and positive evolution "because of their dry minerality, which makes them a little stand-offish at this early stage but bodes well for aging." Kistler uses 50% new barriques across the board for all his chardonnays and noted that of course drinkers will notice the oak influence if they consume the wines in the first couple of years after they're bottled. "We're not making wines that are going to show their true hand straight out of the gate," he said. "Some bottle age is necessary for the fermentation character to recede and the terroir to come forward."
1995 Chardonnay Vine Hill Vineyard Russian River Valley
Color: White

Score: 89.5

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Aromas of lemon zest, smoke and caraway seed. Intensely flavored but very tightly wound and backward today. Dense on the palate, with minerally notes of pineapple and grapefruit. Strong acidity gives this serious chardonnay a slightly hard edge. I expect this wine to merit a 90-plus rating after a couple more years in bottle.

Producer Commentary:
2006 Pinot Noir Kistler Vineyard Sonoma Coast
Color: Red

Score: 92.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Medium red. Compelling perfume of raspberry, candied cherry, rose oil and minerals. Buoyant red berry flavors boast impressive depth and are complicated by suave cola and sassafras qualities. Becomes smokier with air and finishes with excellent clarity, cling and nervy persistence. This is a blend of Pommard and Calera clones.

Producer Commentary:
Steve Kistler works exclusively with traditional California clones for both chardonnay (such as Wente, Hyde and Mount Eden) and pinot noir (Pommard, Swan, Calera) because he believes that the Dijon clones planted in the warmer areas of the North Coast "give fruit opulence but at the expense of the minerality we like." Halfway through this year's tasting it struck me that one would be hard-pressed to find a set of more mineral-driven chardonnays anywhere today, even from Burgundy. Kistler attributes this characteristic to the aforementioned heirloom clones as well as to the fact that he works "in cool, stony vineyards that are moderated by wind and fog and have the right exposures." He told me that in 2006 all of his pinot noir was picked at, or under, 24o Brix, which means less than 13.5% potential alcohol.
2009 Pinot Noir Kistler Vineyard Sonoma Coast
Color: Red

Score: 92.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: (made from mostly Calera clone grapes picked at 24 degrees Brix): Vivid ruby-red. Deeply pitched dark berry and cherry aromas are complicated by notes of licorice, woodsmoke and dark chocolate. Lush and weighty on entry, then fresher and more lithe in the mid-palate, offering intense black raspberry and candied violet flavors with a touch of black tea. The spicy finish offers very good clarity and cling.

Producer Commentary:
"A great vintage, for both pinot and chardonnay," is how Steve Kistler described 2009 to me. "We got full ripeness and a good quantity of fruit, healthy and fully mature at low Brix levels." By low Brix Kistler means somewhere in the 22 to 23 range. "It's completely possible to make intense, deeply flavored wines at those ripeness levels," he said, adding that he prefers brightness over sheer mass. Kistler added that all of his wines fermented to "bone dry" in 2009, noting that he never adds sugar, acids or enzymes to his wines. He told me that he especially likes the structure imparted by the Calera selection of pinot noir and the minerality achieved by the old Wente clones of chardonnay. He reiterated his feeling that the Dijon clones of both chardonnay and pinot noir don't suit his style as they tend to overcrop and overemphasize fruitiness.
2001 Pinot Noir Kistler Vineyard Sonoma Coast
Color: Red

Score: 92.5

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Medium red-ruby. Pretty, nuanced nose combines raspberry, red cherry, flowers, earth and mint. At once dense and juicy, with lively raspberry and floral flavors complemented but not dominated by spicy oak. This should develop more complexity with bottle aging, but it's already captivating today thanks to its sappy freshness. Finishes very long and firmly tannic, with lingering raspberry and black cherry flavors. There are 1,500 cases of this wine, making it by far Kistler's largest cuvee of pinot noir.

Producer Commentary:
Steve Kistler describes 2001 as "a wonderful vintage where the natural yeasts and malolactic bacteria behaved themselves nicely.We were able to sulfur the wines by the first of the new year," he went on. The pHs are in the 3.3 to 3.4 range, as low as in 2000. The wines are delicious now but should last well. There are no blowsy wines, and they show clear differences of vineyard character. I'd suggest drinking them beginning in 2006."Kistler went on to note that his chardonnays have a lower percentage of solids in them than in the past. He's also keeping the musts a bit warmer for the first 48 hours, and he believes that this has helped the yeasts work better. Once again, Kistler showed me only a single 2001 pinot noir, albeit his most important bottling in terms of cases produced.
1997 Pinot Noir Kistler Vineyard Sonoma Coast
Color: Red

Score: 90.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Deep red-ruby color. Sappy, floral aromas of crushed red fruits, cola, bitter chocolate and pungent oak. Concentrated, clean and deep on the palate; a substantial, rich wine whose new oak scents currently mute its flamboyant raspberry and cherry flavors. I'd be a bit more confident about the future of this bottle if the oak had not turned a bit tarry with aeration.

Producer Commentary:
In this earliest California harvest on record, says Steve Kistler, those growers who dropped crop in '97 were most successful. Even so, some of his vineyards produced yields of over three tons per acre, high for this winery, though a few still came in under two tons. Despite the fat and richness of the '97s, Kistler says they possess average to above-average acids. It's a vintage, he explains, that generally favors chardonnay and pinot from the Russian River Valley over vineyards farther to the west, while in '98 there's less difference between the two areas. This perfectionist winemaker was quite excited about the '99 crop of pinots, which he says ripened thoroughly at moderate sugar levels and retained very fresh acidity, which will enable them to age slowly. In '98, '97 and '96, says Kistler, very good wines were made, but the skins and flavors weren't completely ripe. I found the '97s to be silkier, and less phenolic, than any previous set of Kistler chardonnays.
2005 Pinot Noir Kistler Vineyard Sonoma Coast
Color: Red

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Deep red with a bright rim. Vibrant bouquet of wild strawberry, black raspberry, incense and Asian spices; smells like a wine made from whole clusters but Kistler told me that everything was destemmed. Pliant and juicy, offering energetic red and dark berry flavors, supple texture and silky tannins. Finishes dry but not hard, with a strong echo of sweet strawberry and superb focus.

Producer Commentary:
According to Steve Kistler, "2005 was just a wonderful growing season, with no heat spikes, and the fermentations were textbook, with long malos extending into the spring." He noted that he has cut back on his lees-stirring regimen "to better preserve purity." When I mentioned the depth and intensity of his pinot noirs, he told me that "with the Calera clone, it's easy to get that character," adding that he routinely brings in low yields-for example, less than a ton an acre from Occidental Station in 2005.
2007 Pinot Noir Kistler Vineyard Sonoma Coast
Color: Red

Score: 92.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Bright ruby. Intensely perfumed bouquet of red and dark berries, potpourri, mocha and sandalwood. Sappy, palate-coating red and dark berry flavors possess serious depth but don't come off as heavy. On the contrary, this is lively and precise, with very good finishing clarity and gently sweet mineral-driven persistence.

Producer Commentary:
Steve Kistler told me that all of his chardonnays clock in at under 3.4 pH in 2007, and that this is a vintage "that's all about freshness and energy." He also thinks that they will enjoy a slow and positive evolution "because of their dry minerality, which makes them a little stand-offish at this early stage but bodes well for aging." Kistler uses 50% new barriques across the board for all his chardonnays and noted that of course drinkers will notice the oak influence if they consume the wines in the first couple of years after they're bottled. "We're not making wines that are going to show their true hand straight out of the gate," he said. "Some bottle age is necessary for the fermentation character to recede and the terroir to come forward."
2010 Pinot Noir Cuvee Natalie Silver Belt Vineyard Sonoma Coast
Color: Red

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Deep ruby. Mineral-accented red berry and cherry aromas are complemented by hints of fresh rose and anise. Focused and energetic on entry, then deeper in the middle, offering spicy redcurrant and bitter cherry flavors and showing excellent mineral spine. Finishes with impressive clarity and cut and lingering smoky mineral and floral notes.

Producer Commentary:
Aside from the obvious "stressful growing season and short crop," Steve Kistler is "very pleased with how 2010 has ultimately turned out" for both chardonnay and pinot noir.The coolness of the season encouraged the naturally low pHs and low sugars ("but with full ripeness") that Kistler seeks.According to Kistler, "They had the concentration to quickly and efficiently absorb the oak" and show a spiciness that makes for plenty of immediate appeal.The pinots "have a taut quality" that bodes well for aging, he says, adding that the late season heat spikes were mostly beneficial "if your vineyards were in cold, windy or high altitude spots and you hadn't gone too far with canopy thinning."
2008 Pinot Noir Kistler Vineyard Sonoma Coast
Color: Red

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Vivid red. Drop-dead gorgeous perfume of raspberry preserves, Asian spices and fresh rose, with a deeper suggestion of violet. Sappy, penetrating and pure, with strikingly intense red fruit flavors underpinned by tangy minerality. Finishes with resonating spiciness and a lingering floral note. This wine's clarity is striking.

Producer Commentary:
Steve Kistler and his assistant winemaker Jason Kesner described 2008 as "a vintage where there's very good concentration to the chardonnays but not too much." Kistler told me that his aim was "to get the wines to ferment to truly dry and to never use sugar. Sugar simplifies the fruit," he added, "and if you're trying to get real complexity, much less minerality and finesse, that's going to be very hard to achieve with added sugar." Speaking of finesse, I asked Kistler about the greater precision of his pinot noirs in recent vintages. He told me "it's all part of the fine-tuning to get to where we have expression but not too much weight." He explained that he had shortened the cold soaks of his pinot, "which seems to add lift to their aromas and has increased floral and spice character." Also recommended:
2004 Pinot Noir Kistler Vineyard Sonoma Coast
Color: Red

Score: 92.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Dark red. Highly expressive aromas of blackcurrant, cherry and raspberry accented by cinnamon and white pepper. Impressively pure and energetic, with vibrant red and dark berry flavors, subtle minerality and a fine-grained, silky texture. Finishes with excellent energy and a late note of floral pastille.

Producer Commentary:
Steve Kistler believes that whole-cluster fermentation gives much more complexity to his wines and does not rack them until bottling. These nuanced, mineral-driven chardonnays do more than wink at Burgundy: they often outdo their Old World counterparts with their complex leesy character. "You're not going to find fruit-driven wines here," Kistler said. He advises drinking his chardonnays at about four to six years though he acknowledges that they can go further-"But at four to six you won't be disappointed." Kistler is very high on his 2004s, believing that they are among the strongest and liveliest sets of wine he has made to date. "They had very low pHs and the fermentations went slowly," he told me.
2002 Pinot Noir Kistler Vineyard Sonoma Coast
Color: Red

Score: 91.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Ruby-red. High-toned aromas of blueberry, raspberry, strawberry and baking spices, along with a hint of rhubarb. Sweet, spicy and high-toned, with notes of crushed berries, dark plum, baking spices, mocha and forest floor. Very concentrated, rich pinot with strong fruit and intriguing soil tones.

Producer Commentary:
I tasted the Kistler 2002s in early March with Steve Kistler's business partner Mark Bixler, who told me that the 2002 harvest lasted from September 5 through 24, with much of the fruit being picked at the beginning of that period."There were not big regional differences in quality in 2002," Bixler reported.This year I was able to taste two pinot noir offerings, and the Cuvee Catherine was among the best Kistler pinots I've tasted to date.Bixler noted that 70% of Kistler's wine now comes from their own vineyards, and that grapes Kistler purchases are bought by the acre, rather than by the ton.
1996 Pinot Noir Kistler Vineyard Sonoma Coast
Color: Red

Score: 91.5

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Dark red. Sappy, primal aromas of raspberry, orange rind, cherry cola, smoked meat, tarry oak and a pungent kernel of spice. Rich and deep, with maraschino cherry and dark berry flavors. A pinot with an impressive large structure; very long on the finish but the tannins are a bit elevated in the early going. Offers considerable potential.

Producer Commentary:
Fans of Kistler chardonnay who are unable to track down this winery scarcer vineyard-designated bottlings should be happy to know that the more widely available Durell and Dutton Ranch chardonnays are both highly successful in '96. The chardonnays here typically get one-half to two-thirds new oak, though Steve Kistler emphasizes that the percentage of new wood varies by the wine and by the vintage. (Kistler Vineyards is one of the largest advance purchasers of Francois Freres barrels in California.) I was unable to taste the '97 chardonnays, as most of these wines were about to be bottled. Pinot noir is growing as a percentage of total Kistler production, but these wines are still extremely limited in the retail marketplace. The '96s I tasted are rare birds for California pinot noir: wines that offer mouthfilling richness and superb depth of flavor while retaining a sappy berry character and avoiding aromas and flavors of overripeness.
2003 Pinot Noir Kistler Vineyard Sonoma Coast
Color: Red

Score: 93.5

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Good deep ruby-red. Spicy, pungent, bright nose combines raspberry, minerals, bitter chocolate and white pepper, all lifted by a floral topnote. Sappy and fresh in the mouth, with terrific precision and cut. This has an urgent crushed raspberry flavor and a seductive juiciness. Finishes quite primary, with excellent structure and grip. Already hard to resist but this should open further with a few years of bottle aging.

Producer Commentary:
Steve Kistler was quite excited about the quality of the 2005s, which he feels may be his best wines yet. But he described the 2003s as "rich and high in extract, with excellent structure. "Alcohol levels are in the mid-14s, which is about normal for this producer today. "We started harvesting on the late side, but the harvest took place during a fairly hot period and was more compact than usual," noted Kistler, who considers the 2003s to be a medium- to long-term ager by the standards of his wines. "In 2003 we have acids about as good as we've gotten to date, except for 2005," he told me, "but acids accompanied by thoroughly ripe fruit. "Kistler showed me a couple of very strong pinots at the end of our tasting. He feels he has turned the corner on pinot in 2002 and 2003, through a combination of slightly earlier picking and cooler fermentation temperatures. Still, he noted, whereas "we made red fruit pinots six or seven years ago," (wines he described as more Burgundian in character), "our clients expect to find black fruit flavors in our wines. "
2010 Pinot Noir Kistler Vineyard Sonoma Coast
Color: Red

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Bright ruby. Spicy cherry, dark berry and black cardamom aromas show very good energy and impressive precision. Chewy bitter cherry and black raspberry flavors are given lift and spine by a tangy minerality that adds back-end cut. Gains power and sweetness on the finish along with dusty tannins, but not at the expense of suave pinot fruit.

Producer Commentary:
Aside from the obvious "stressful growing season and short crop," Steve Kistler is "very pleased with how 2010 has ultimately turned out" for both chardonnay and pinot noir.The coolness of the season encouraged the naturally low pHs and low sugars ("but with full ripeness") that Kistler seeks.According to Kistler, "They had the concentration to quickly and efficiently absorb the oak" and show a spiciness that makes for plenty of immediate appeal.The pinots "have a taut quality" that bodes well for aging, he says, adding that the late season heat spikes were mostly beneficial "if your vineyards were in cold, windy or high altitude spots and you hadn't gone too far with canopy thinning."
2007 Pinot Noir Cuvee Natalie Silver Belt Vineyard Sonoma Coast
Color: Red

Score: 92.5

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Saturated red. More powerful and brooding on the nose than the Kistler Vineyard offering, displaying scents of blackcurrant, cherry and licorice, and a sneaky florality. Suave and velvety in texture, offering pliant dark fruit flavors that unwind to show notes of spicecake and candied rose. Still very young: I'd give this a couple years of bottle age.

Producer Commentary:
Steve Kistler told me that all of his chardonnays clock in at under 3.4 pH in 2007, and that this is a vintage "that's all about freshness and energy." He also thinks that they will enjoy a slow and positive evolution "because of their dry minerality, which makes them a little stand-offish at this early stage but bodes well for aging." Kistler uses 50% new barriques across the board for all his chardonnays and noted that of course drinkers will notice the oak influence if they consume the wines in the first couple of years after they're bottled. "We're not making wines that are going to show their true hand straight out of the gate," he said. "Some bottle age is necessary for the fermentation character to recede and the terroir to come forward."
2006 Pinot Noir Cuvee Natalie Silver Belt Vineyard Sonoma Coast
Color: Red

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Deep red color. Loamy red berry and cherry aromas expand with air, picking up strong floral and smoky mineral qualities. The floral note gains strength with air and carries onto the palate, adding complexity to the wine's deep, chewy cherry and dark berry flavors. This is like two wines in one, with a high-pitched nose and a deeper, weightier palate. The finish strongly echoes the cherry and mineral notes and refuses to let up. This wine has more Swan clone than the other pinots.

Producer Commentary:
Steve Kistler works exclusively with traditional California clones for both chardonnay (such as Wente, Hyde and Mount Eden) and pinot noir (Pommard, Swan, Calera) because he believes that the Dijon clones planted in the warmer areas of the North Coast "give fruit opulence but at the expense of the minerality we like." Halfway through this year's tasting it struck me that one would be hard-pressed to find a set of more mineral-driven chardonnays anywhere today, even from Burgundy. Kistler attributes this characteristic to the aforementioned heirloom clones as well as to the fact that he works "in cool, stony vineyards that are moderated by wind and fog and have the right exposures." He told me that in 2006 all of his pinot noir was picked at, or under, 24o Brix, which means less than 13.5% potential alcohol.
2002 Pinot Noir Cuvee Catherine Russian River Valley
Color: Red

Score: 94.5

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: (this and the "regular" Kistler Vineyard release were aged in 100% new barrels) Bright, saturated ruby-red. Brooding, reticent, superripe nose hints at blueberry, black raspberry, black cherry and baking spices. A step up in sweetness from the regular Kistler Vineyard bottling, offering sappy dark berries and forest floor perfume; lively framing acidity; and superb richness and depth. Finishes with terrific grip and persistence. A wonderfully concentrated, youthfully unevolved pinot with all the elements for positive evolution in bottle over the next five to seven years.

Producer Commentary:
I tasted the Kistler 2002s in early March with Steve Kistler's business partner Mark Bixler, who told me that the 2002 harvest lasted from September 5 through 24, with much of the fruit being picked at the beginning of that period."There were not big regional differences in quality in 2002," Bixler reported.This year I was able to taste two pinot noir offerings, and the Cuvee Catherine was among the best Kistler pinots I've tasted to date.Bixler noted that 70% of Kistler's wine now comes from their own vineyards, and that grapes Kistler purchases are bought by the acre, rather than by the ton.
2016 Pinot Noir Laguna Ridge (Formerly Kistler Vineyard)
Color: Red

Score: 96.0

Drinking window: 2020 - 2028

Tasting notes: The 2016 Pinot Noir Laguna Ridge (formerly Kistler Vineyard) is a racy, sensual wine. Lifted floral notes add shades of brightness to the red-toned fruit. Cedar, tobacco and iron develop later, bring further layers of nuance. I very much like the sense of energy here. This is typically the first fruit brought in at Kistler.

Producer Commentary:
There is plenty to like in this range of 2016s. Steve Kistler is now fully out from the winery he founded in 1978. My distinct impression is that this will prove to be a very positive development for all parties. Kistler has moved on to Occidental, where he is making wines in a very different style than he did here. At the same time, Jason Kesner, Kistler's successor, has the freedom to update these wines and take them to the next level, which is, frankly, something that is needed after many years of being somewhat stuck stylistically. For example, I have long felt the wines, the Chardonnays in particular, could be more differentiated. Hopefully that is something that will come in time. As for the 2016s, they are all attractive wines that will drink well with minimal cellaring.
2014 Pinot Noir Kistler Vineyard
Color: Red

Score: 95.5

Drinking window: 2019 - 2029

Tasting notes: Deceptively medium in body, the 2014 Pinot Noir Kistler Vineyard packs a real punch. Succulent red cherry, rose petal, lavender and violet are all pushed forward, but it is the wine's inner sweetness and aromatics that stand out. Today, the KV comes across as very restrained, with bright acids and fabulous balance. A rush of sweet red cherry, blueberry and pomegranate leave a lasting impression. The 2014 is going to need a bit of time in bottle to unwind, but it is superb. 

Producer Commentary:
Kistler's 2015s are fabulous. Yields were down 25-30% across the board, which gives the wines notable textural richness and intensity. At the same time, acidities stayed high. The interplay of deep fruit and salivating acidity is the key attribute of these wines, and of the vintage more broadly. Two thousand fifteen is the first year in which some of the Pinot lots were done with whole clusters (on the Cuvée Natalie). In 2016, Kistler doubled the number of lots fermented with stems. The bottled 2014s are consistent with how they showed from tank prior to bottling. Readers will not want to miss the 2014 Pinots, as they are fabulous. The 2014 Chardonnays are attractive, but they are also a bit diffuse and not quite as focused as in the very best years. Yields were lower for Pinot Noir than Chardonnay, which may explain why the Pinots have an extra dimension of clarity.
2011 Pinot Noir Kistler Vineyard
Color: Red

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 2014 - 2020

Tasting notes: The 2011 Pinot Noir Kistler Vineyard is exceptionally beautiful. In 2010, the Kistler Vineyard Pinot is a bit more slender than normal, but that in no way detracts from the wine's gorgeous purity of fruit and fabulous overall balance. An expressive, totally layered finish rounds things out in this supple, hugely promising Pinot from Steve Kistler. 

Producer Commentary:
It is always a pleasure to visit with Steve Kistler and his partner Mark Bixler. The 2011s and 2010s are excellent across the board, although today, I have a preference for the 2011s. Vintage 2011 is shaping up beautifully, for both the Chardonnays and Pinots. As was the case throughout the region, the season was cool and slow to develop. The 2011s were picked at lower sugars than is the norm here, but very much in keeping with the personality of the year. Steve Kistler commented that a poor set in 2011 resulted in the lowest crop loads here in years. Like a lot of his colleagues, Kistler noted that the experiences of 2010 had a huge positive impact in how he responded to similar challenges in 2011. The 2010 Chardonnays are beautiful across the board. Although solid, the 2010 Pinots aren't quite at the level of the superb 2009s and I expect, ultimately, the 2011s. It was a tough vintage for the Pinots. Yields were mercilessly low. Sadly, there is no Cuvee Elizabeth, as the little fruit that came in went into the Kistler Vineyard bottling.
2014 Pinot Noir Kistler Vineyard
Color: Red

Score: 95.5

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: The 2014 Pinot Noir Kistler Vineyard opens with huge, soaring aromatics. Vivid and wonderfully nuanced throughout, is both racy and refined, with bold up-front fruit and a fleshy personality that holds considerable near and medium-term appeal. Lifted aromatics and intense red cherry/pomegranate fruit flesh out in this superb, deeply expressive Pinot. There is a lot to look forward to, that is for sure.

Producer Commentary:
I tasted a wide range of wines during two recent visits with Steve Kistler, his business partner Mark Bixler, and winemaker Jason Kesner. In 2013, the Chardonnays are more consistent across the board than the Pinots. Yields were naturally high in 2013, largely the result of large berries, which seems to have affected the Pinots more than the Chardonnays. In 2014, it is the exact opposite. Lower yields and small berries helped create ideal conditions for making superb Pinot Noir. The 2014 Chardonnays are more variable than the Pinots today, but better wines suggest there is plenty of latent potential in some of these wines that is not obvious today.
2012 Pinot Noir Kistler Vineyard
Color: Red

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 2016 - 2022

Tasting notes: The 2012 Pinot Noir Kistler Vineyard comes across as quite supple and voluptuous today, with tons of upfront juiciness. Racy and opulent from the outset, the Kistler Vineyard blossoms with notable depth and layers of enveloping fruit. Dark red cherry, plum, spice and lavender add the final notes of complexity in a racy, perfumed Pinot to drink over the next decade. 

Producer Commentary:
It's fascinating to see how Kistler's 2012 have developed since I tasted them just before bottling. The 2012 Chardonnays seem to have become softer and more open, while the exact opposite has taken place with the Pinot Noirs, all of which are quite a bit firmer and more tannic. My sense is that the 2012 Chardonnays will offer their best drinking sooner rather than later, while the Pinots will reward at least medium-term aging. In other news, Jason Kesner has been promoted to Winemaker, another step in what appears to be a gradual transition as Steve Kistler hands off more day-to-day responsibility to Kesner.
2013 Pinot Noir Kistler Vineyard
Color: Red

Score: 92.0

Drinking window: 2018 - 2025

Tasting notes: The 2013 Pinot Noir Kistler Vineyard is marked by large swaths of tannin that give the wine its brooding personality. Scents of game, smoke and dried leaves add an attractive savory upper register. Today, the 2013 is a bit burly and rough around the edges, something I did not see in this wine a year ago.

Producer Commentary:
I tasted a wide range of wines during two recent visits with Steve Kistler, his business partner Mark Bixler, and winemaker Jason Kesner. In 2013, the Chardonnays are more consistent across the board than the Pinots. Yields were naturally high in 2013, largely the result of large berries, which seems to have affected the Pinots more than the Chardonnays. In 2014, it is the exact opposite. Lower yields and small berries helped create ideal conditions for making superb Pinot Noir. The 2014 Chardonnays are more variable than the Pinots today, but better wines suggest there is plenty of latent potential in some of these wines that is not obvious today.
2009 Pinot Noir Silver Belt Cuveee Natalie
Color: Red

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 2014 - 2021

Tasting notes: The 2009 Pinot Noir Silver Belt Cuvee Natalie is a deep, dense wine imbued with black cherries, spices, violets, mint and crushed rocks. It possesses stunning depth and richness, all supported by a persistent vein of minerality that gives the wine its focus and energy. The Cuvee Natalie is pure, powerful and simply a beauty to behold in the glass. 

Producer Commentary:
I was blown away by these wines from Steve Kistler, his partner Mark Bixler and winemaker Jason Kesner. Over the last few years Kistler has refined his approach, as he wasn't totally satisfied by the way some of his earlier wines had developed in bottle. Today Kistler is picking his Chardonnays at lower Brix levels, using less French oak (with no stirring of the lees) and keeping the wines in barrel for a shorter amount of time, all in an effort to preserve as much freshness as possible. The result is wines that are totally different in style from years past. The Pinots see a maximum 50% new oak barrels and that number will continue to trend downwards over the next few years. The 2009 harvest started around September 4th for both Chardonnay and Pinot. The 2009s were bottled in December 2010. Unfortunately, I was not able to taste the 2010s, as they had been bottled just prior to my visit. I will taste those wines in October, 2012. A frequent source of frustration among readers has been the lack of in-the-bottle reviews for Kistler wines. Beginning this year, all wines tasted from barrel will be subsequently reviewed from bottle as well. Readers who haven't tasted the Kistler wines in some time owe it to themselves to do so. These are some of the most thrilling wines being made in California today.
2016 Pinot Noir Silver Belt Vineyard Cuvée Natalie
Color: Red

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 2020 - 2028

Tasting notes: The 2016 Pinot Noir Silver Belt Vineyard Cuvée Natalie is plump, juicy and absolutely delicious. Super-ripe dark cherry, plum, spice, lavender and licorice all take shape as this deep, inky Pinot shows off its soft curves and voluptuous personality. Beautifully layered and inviting, the 2016 has so much to offer.

Producer Commentary:
There is plenty to like in this range of 2016s. Steve Kistler is now fully out from the winery he founded in 1978. My distinct impression is that this will prove to be a very positive development for all parties. Kistler has moved on to Occidental, where he is making wines in a very different style than he did here. At the same time, Jason Kesner, Kistler's successor, has the freedom to update these wines and take them to the next level, which is, frankly, something that is needed after many years of being somewhat stuck stylistically. For example, I have long felt the wines, the Chardonnays in particular, could be more differentiated. Hopefully that is something that will come in time. As for the 2016s, they are all attractive wines that will drink well with minimal cellaring.
2017 Pinot Noir Silver Belt Vineyard Cuvée Natalie
Color: Red

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 2021 - 2032

Tasting notes: The 2017 Pinot Noir Cuvée Natalie is endowed with serious concentration. Inky red and purplish berry fruit, cloves, new leather, lavender and menthol race across the palate as this sumptuous, full-bodied Pinot shows off its curves. This is a decidedly flamboyant style with tons of pure power and intensity in every dimension.

Producer Commentary:
Jason Kesner turned out a brilliant set of wines at Kistler in 2017. Yields were quite low because of poor weather during set. Kesner told me he was able to pick almost all his fruit - both Pinot and Chardonnay - before the Labor Day heat, which is rare. Perhaps more importantly, over the last few years, Kesner has moved picking dates up by three days on average, which is considerable, especially for Chardonnay. Today's Kistler wines clearly offer more freshness and nuance than in the past. The 2017s are some of the very finest and most consistent wines I have ever tasted here. Clearly, the wines carry considerable textural richness. and yet they are also distinct and highly expressive of site. The 2017s were all racked from barrel to tank just prior to the 2018 harvest, and bottled in November of that year.
2018 Pinot Noir Silver Belt Vineyard Cuvée Natalie
Color: Red

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 2022 - 2033

Tasting notes: The 2018 Pinot Noir Silver Belt Vineyard Cuvée Natalie opens with a burst of ripe red/purplish berry fruit. Iron, game, savory herbs and rose petal add layers of intrigue. Overall, though the Cuvée Natalie remains a bit austere and unyielding. The aromatics are quite expressive, and yet the wine is far less forthcoming on the palate. Star anise, blood orange and spice give the 2018 an attractive exotic quality. It will be interesting to see if the 2018 comes together a bit more fully with time in bottle. 

Producer Commentary:
This is a terrific set of new releases from Kistler. The 2018 Chardonnays are the most consistently brilliant wines I have ever tasted here. The long, cool growing season gave winemaker Jason Kesner the opportunity to make wines that express the character of site, and that's exactly what comes through. The 2018 Chardonnays are gorgeous wines through which to explore the wide range of vineyards in the Kistler range. I found the 2018 Pinots pretty tight and far less forthcoming than the Chardonnays. These days, Kesner picks more on acidity than fruit ripeness. Consequently, the wines have moved towards a fresher style, and that is amplified in 2018. The wines spent eleven months in barrel (about 40% new wood), followed by three months in tank prior to being bottled.
2014 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast)
Color: Red

Score: 91.5

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: The 2014 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast) is striking. Nuanced and sculpted throughout, the Sonoma Coast Pinot offers gorgeous purity and fabulous nuance, especially at this level. Bright red stone fruits, mint and flowers are all beautifully articulated. This is a strong appellation-level wine from Kistler. Most of the fruit is sourced from the Kistler and Silver belt vineyards.

Producer Commentary:
I tasted a wide range of wines during two recent visits with Steve Kistler, his business partner Mark Bixler, and winemaker Jason Kesner. In 2013, the Chardonnays are more consistent across the board than the Pinots. Yields were naturally high in 2013, largely the result of large berries, which seems to have affected the Pinots more than the Chardonnays. In 2014, it is the exact opposite. Lower yields and small berries helped create ideal conditions for making superb Pinot Noir. The 2014 Chardonnays are more variable than the Pinots today, but better wines suggest there is plenty of latent potential in some of these wines that is not obvious today.
2015 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast)
Color: Red

Score: 92.5

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Kistler's 2015 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast) is a drop-dead gorgeous beauty. Deep, powerful and fleshy, but also light on its feet because of the bright acids, the Sonoma Coast bottling shows just how magical this vintage is for Pinot Noir. The purity of the flavors here is simply striking. Quite frankly, this is an unreal level of quality at the appellation level. Wow. 

Producer Commentary:
Kistler's 2015s are fabulous. Yields were down 25-30% across the board, which gives the wines notable textural richness and intensity. At the same time, acidities stayed high. The interplay of deep fruit and salivating acidity is the key attribute of these wines, and of the vintage more broadly. Two thousand fifteen is the first year in which some of the Pinot lots were done with whole clusters (on the Cuvée Natalie). In 2016, Kistler doubled the number of lots fermented with stems. The bottled 2014s are consistent with how they showed from tank prior to bottling. Readers will not want to miss the 2014 Pinots, as they are fabulous. The 2014 Chardonnays are attractive, but they are also a bit diffuse and not quite as focused as in the very best years. Yields were lower for Pinot Noir than Chardonnay, which may explain why the Pinots have an extra dimension of clarity.
2013 Pinot Noir Silver Belt Cuvée Natalie
Color: Red

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 2018 - 2025

Tasting notes: Gracious and pliant, Kistler's 2013 Pinot Noir Silver Belt Cuvée Natalie is quite inviting. Expressive aromatics give the 2013 a lovely sense of lift, yet there is plenty of palate presence as well. Dark cherry, plum, spice and cola are some of the notes that are pushed forward. The Cuvée Natalie has come along nicely since I tasted it last year.

Producer Commentary:
I tasted a wide range of wines during two recent visits with Steve Kistler, his business partner Mark Bixler, and winemaker Jason Kesner. In 2013, the Chardonnays are more consistent across the board than the Pinots. Yields were naturally high in 2013, largely the result of large berries, which seems to have affected the Pinots more than the Chardonnays. In 2014, it is the exact opposite. Lower yields and small berries helped create ideal conditions for making superb Pinot Noir. The 2014 Chardonnays are more variable than the Pinots today, but better wines suggest there is plenty of latent potential in some of these wines that is not obvious today.
2011 Pinot Noir Silver Belt Cuvee Natalie
Color: Red

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 2014 - 2021

Tasting notes: A fascinating wine, the 2011 Pinot Noir Silver Belt Cuvee Natalie shows many of its trademark notes, albeit in a smaller-scaled style than normal. Dark cherries, flowers and spices inform the supple, juicy finish. It will be interesting to see if the 2011 fleshes out over the next year. Today it is quite beautiful.

Producer Commentary:
It is always a pleasure to visit with Steve Kistler and his partner Mark Bixler. The 2011s and 2010s are excellent across the board, although today, I have a preference for the 2011s. Vintage 2011 is shaping up beautifully, for both the Chardonnays and Pinots. As was the case throughout the region, the season was cool and slow to develop. The 2011s were picked at lower sugars than is the norm here, but very much in keeping with the personality of the year. Steve Kistler commented that a poor set in 2011 resulted in the lowest crop loads here in years. Like a lot of his colleagues, Kistler noted that the experiences of 2010 had a huge positive impact in how he responded to similar challenges in 2011. The 2010 Chardonnays are beautiful across the board. Although solid, the 2010 Pinots aren't quite at the level of the superb 2009s and I expect, ultimately, the 2011s. It was a tough vintage for the Pinots. Yields were mercilessly low. Sadly, there is no Cuvee Elizabeth, as the little fruit that came in went into the Kistler Vineyard bottling.
2010 Pinot Noir Silver Belt Cuvee Natalie
Color: Red

Score: 92.0

Drinking window: 2014 - 2020

Tasting notes: The 2010 Pinot Noir Silver Belt Cuvee Natalie is a pretty, aromatic wine endowed with gorgeous lift and a gracious personality, with none of the wilder notes found in the Kistler Vineyard. The Cuvee Natalie is quite delicate, at times even a bit frail, but it nevertheless impresses with its superb purity and fine overall balance. There is a sense of energy in the Cuvee Natalie that is highly appealing. My impression is that the Cuvee Natalie is not built for the long haul, but it will drink nicely for at least the next few years. 

Producer Commentary:
It is always a pleasure to visit with Steve Kistler and his partner Mark Bixler. The 2011s and 2010s are excellent across the board, although today, I have a preference for the 2011s. Vintage 2011 is shaping up beautifully, for both the Chardonnays and Pinots. As was the case throughout the region, the season was cool and slow to develop. The 2011s were picked at lower sugars than is the norm here, but very much in keeping with the personality of the year. Steve Kistler commented that a poor set in 2011 resulted in the lowest crop loads here in years. Like a lot of his colleagues, Kistler noted that the experiences of 2010 had a huge positive impact in how he responded to similar challenges in 2011. The 2010 Chardonnays are beautiful across the board. Although solid, the 2010 Pinots aren't quite at the level of the superb 2009s and I expect, ultimately, the 2011s. It was a tough vintage for the Pinots. Yields were mercilessly low. Sadly, there is no Cuvee Elizabeth, as the little fruit that came in went into the Kistler Vineyard bottling.
2012 Pinot Noir Silver Belt Cuvée Natalie
Color: Red

Score: 96.0

Drinking window: 2016 - 2022

Tasting notes: A wine of real intrigue and finesse, the 2012 Pinot Noir Silver Belt Cuvée Natalie boasts marvelous detail and nuance. Sweet red cherry, plum and spice open up gradually, but the 2012 is not showing a lot of near-term accessibility at this stage. Instead, it is the wine's energy and tension that are front and center. A brilliant, crystalline finish rounds things out very nicely. Readers should give the 2012 at least a few years in bottle to fully come together. 

Producer Commentary:
It's fascinating to see how Kistler's 2012 have developed since I tasted them just before bottling. The 2012 Chardonnays seem to have become softer and more open, while the exact opposite has taken place with the Pinot Noirs, all of which are quite a bit firmer and more tannic. My sense is that the 2012 Chardonnays will offer their best drinking sooner rather than later, while the Pinots will reward at least medium-term aging. In other news, Jason Kesner has been promoted to Winemaker, another step in what appears to be a gradual transition as Steve Kistler hands off more day-to-day responsibility to Kesner.
2014 Pinot Noir Silver Belt Cuvée Natalie
Color: Red

Score: 95.5

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Kistler's 2014 Pinot Noir Silver Belt Cuvée Natalie emerges from a site planted with both Swan and Calera clone Pinot. Quite unusually for a Kistler Pinot, the Cuvée Natalie does not offer much in the way of near-term appeal, but rather it comes across as a wine that is going to need time to fully come together. The flavors are intense, dark and powerful. Smoke, black cherry, plum and licorice extend into a long finish supported by beams of firm tannin. The Cuvée Natalie is shaping up to be a real jewel of a wine.

Producer Commentary:
I tasted a wide range of wines during two recent visits with Steve Kistler, his business partner Mark Bixler, and winemaker Jason Kesner. In 2013, the Chardonnays are more consistent across the board than the Pinots. Yields were naturally high in 2013, largely the result of large berries, which seems to have affected the Pinots more than the Chardonnays. In 2014, it is the exact opposite. Lower yields and small berries helped create ideal conditions for making superb Pinot Noir. The 2014 Chardonnays are more variable than the Pinots today, but better wines suggest there is plenty of latent potential in some of these wines that is not obvious today.
2012 Pinot Noir Silver Belt Cuvée Natalie
Color: Red

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 2015 - 2020

Tasting notes: The Pinot Noir Silver Belt Cuvée Natalie is the most powerful and broad shouldered of the Kistler/Occidental Pinots, partly because of the greater presence of Swan clone Pinot in this parcel. Dark red cherry, plum, game, savory herbs and wild flowers inform the deep, layered finish.

Producer Commentary:
This is a brilliant set of wines from Steve Kistler and his longtime business partner Mark Bixler. According to Kistler, the cool 2011 vintage had little effect on the Chardonnays, all of which were picked at their levels of ripeness, which as I have written previously, are lower than was the norm up until a few years ago. Sugars were harder to come by in the Pinot Noirs, all of which have lower pHs and a little less ripeness than is typically the case. That may be why the 2011 Pinots were so slow to reveal themselves. All of the 2011s were made with native fermentations and were racked only in preparation for bottling, which was done without fining or filtration. The wines were aged in 50% new oak barrels, mostly from François Frères. I also tasted the 2012s from tank, just prior to bottling. Today, the wines show terrific balance and tons of potential. I can hardly wait to taste the wines once they are in bottle. Readers may be aware that Kistler has been partly owned by an investor group for the last six years. Steve Kistler remains CEO and in charge of day to day operations, but has also begun a new Pinot Noir project, Occidental, which is reviewed separately. Going forward, two of the flagship Kistler Pinots, the Cuvée Catherine and Cuvée Elizabeth, will be sold under the Occidental label, so Kistler fans will want to consult those reviews for more information on the wines and the project as a whole. Needless to say, it will be interesting to see what Steve Kistler comes up with in the next phase of what has been a brilliant career.
2014 Pinot Noir Silver Belt Cuvée Natalie
Color: Red

Score: 96.0

Drinking window: 2019 - 2029

Tasting notes: The 2014 Pinot Noir Silver Belt Cuvée Natalie has more density, power and richness than the Kistler Vineyard, with darker tonalities of fruit, to match its inner sweetness. The distinctive aromatics of Swan clone are especially pronounced today. Translucent and expressive, with striking shades of red/purplish fruits, the 2014 is magnificent today. Silky tannins and soft contours will make the 2014 nearly impossible to resist upon release. 

Producer Commentary:
Kistler's 2015s are fabulous. Yields were down 25-30% across the board, which gives the wines notable textural richness and intensity. At the same time, acidities stayed high. The interplay of deep fruit and salivating acidity is the key attribute of these wines, and of the vintage more broadly. Two thousand fifteen is the first year in which some of the Pinot lots were done with whole clusters (on the Cuvée Natalie). In 2016, Kistler doubled the number of lots fermented with stems. The bottled 2014s are consistent with how they showed from tank prior to bottling. Readers will not want to miss the 2014 Pinots, as they are fabulous. The 2014 Chardonnays are attractive, but they are also a bit diffuse and not quite as focused as in the very best years. Yields were lower for Pinot Noir than Chardonnay, which may explain why the Pinots have an extra dimension of clarity.
2013 Pinot Noir Silver Belt Cuvée Natalie
Color: Red

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 2017 - 2025

Tasting notes: Dark red cherry, plum, spice and leather emerge from the Pinot Noir Silver Belt Cuvée Natalie, accompanied by a firm vein of tannin that gives the wine its sense of proportion. The 2013 turns exotic on the mid-palate and finish as the flavors blossom, revealing a powerful Pinot Noir that is likely to require at least a few years in bottle. 

Producer Commentary:
I tasted all of Kistler's 2013s in October 2014, shortly prior to bottling. According to Steve Kistler, the 2013 harvest was two weeks earlier than it was in 2012, which is pretty typical across Sonoma. I found the 2013s to have considerable energy and tension. It will be interesting to see how that translates once the wines have settled down in bottle.
2015 Pinot Noir Silver Belt Cuvée Natalie
Color: Red

Score: 97.0

Drinking window: 2018 - 2030

Tasting notes: Another standout, Kistler's 2015 Pinot Noir Silver Belt Cuvée Natalie is a potent, massively concentrated wine. The presence of Swan clone Pinot as a complement to the Calera clone gives the Cuvée Natalie a palpable sense of aromatic lift and a slightly redder profile than the Laguna Ridge. Rose petal, mint, lavender and raspberry jam are some of the many notes that build as this racy, voluptuous Pinot shows off its personality. Deep, pliant and super-expressive, the Cuvée Natalie appears to have a very bright future. 

Producer Commentary:
My most recent visit to Kistler was quite poignant, as it was really emblematic of a new chapter in the history of this illustrious winery. To be sure, many of the recent changes have been in the works for some time. Steve Kistler has now moved on from the winery he founded in 1978 and set up shop at Occidental. Jason Kesner, Kistler's colleague for nearly a decade, has taken over the reins as part of a long-term succession plan that has been in place for many years. Kesner has been in every tasting I have done at Kistler since 2011. His relationship with Steve Kistler goes back quite further, to the days when Kesner was running Hudson Vineyards. Much less expected was the sudden passing of Mark Bixler, Steve Kistler's long-term business partner. Bixler had also been in all of my previous tastings at the winery. The last time I heard from Bixler was in October, right after the wildfires had burned his home. He seemed in good spirits. Then, a few weeks later, he was gone. Life can be so fleeting. As for the wines, 2015 looks more like a Pinot Noir year than a Chardonnay year at Kistler. The 2015 Pinots are off the charts great. Overall, the Chardonnays have good freshness, but the unnaturally compacted, hot growing season and early harvest appear to have attenuated some of the site-specific differences that are typically present in the wines. This seems especially true of the Hyde and Hudson Chardonnays. Readers will note that there is a name change on what was formerly the Kistler Vineyard Pinot Noir. In the past, there was some confusion in naming, because the Kistler Vineyard Chardonnays and Pinot Noir actually were made from different sites, the former from the Kistler Vineyard on Moon Mountain and the latter from the Kistler Vineyard in the Russian River. Going forward, there is no change for the Chardonnays, both of which are still made from the Kistler Vineyard on Moon Mountain. The Russian River Kistler Vineyard has been renamed Laguna Ridge, and is the source of a new Chardonnay as well as the Pinot that was previously named Kistler Vineyard. Ordinarily, I would have also reported on the 2016s prior to botting, but the October fires made that impossible.

(Originally published in Sonoma Preview: January 2018 New Releases)
2013 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast
Color: Red

Score: 91.0

Drinking window: 2016 - 2021

Tasting notes: The 2013 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast) lifts from the glass with crushed flowers and pretty red berry flavors. More savory notes develop on the delicate finish. The 2013 is a touch fleeting, as so many Pinots in this vintage are, so it is best enjoyed sooner rather than later. This is a very pretty appellation-level wine from Kistler.

Producer Commentary:
I tasted a wide range of wines during two recent visits with Steve Kistler, his business partner Mark Bixler, and winemaker Jason Kesner. In 2013, the Chardonnays are more consistent across the board than the Pinots. Yields were naturally high in 2013, largely the result of large berries, which seems to have affected the Pinots more than the Chardonnays. In 2014, it is the exact opposite. Lower yields and small berries helped create ideal conditions for making superb Pinot Noir. The 2014 Chardonnays are more variable than the Pinots today, but better wines suggest there is plenty of latent potential in some of these wines that is not obvious today.
2017 Pinot Noir Laguna Ridge
Color: Red

Score: 96.0

Drinking window: 2022 - 2032

Tasting notes: The 2017 Pinot Noir Laguna Ridge is sweet, floral and lifted, all qualities that work beautifully to temper the natural intensity of the year. Succulent red berry, mint, spice, licorice and pomegranate give the Laguna Ridge striking freshness and nuance. Next to the bigger Cuvée Natalie, the Laguna Ridge is brighter, more aromatic and also more restrained, although, it, too, is certainty not lacking in intensity. Laguna Ridge is the only site in this range from which Kistler makes both Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. 

Producer Commentary:
Jason Kesner turned out a brilliant set of wines at Kistler in 2017. Yields were quite low because of poor weather during set. Kesner told me he was able to pick almost all his fruit - both Pinot and Chardonnay - before the Labor Day heat, which is rare. Perhaps more importantly, over the last few years, Kesner has moved picking dates up by three days on average, which is considerable, especially for Chardonnay. Today's Kistler wines clearly offer more freshness and nuance than in the past. The 2017s are some of the very finest and most consistent wines I have ever tasted here. Clearly, the wines carry considerable textural richness. and yet they are also distinct and highly expressive of site. The 2017s were all racked from barrel to tank just prior to the 2018 harvest, and bottled in November of that year.
2019 Pinot Noir Laguna Ridge
Color: Red

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 2024 - 2034

Tasting notes: The 2019 Pinot Noir Laguna Ridge is rich, sumptuous and luxurious right out of the bottle. Silky tannins and soft curves give the Laguna Ridge so much charm and appeal. Here, too, the Laguna Ridge impresses with its superb balance and class. Red/purplish berry fruit, rose petal, lavender, mint, spice and blood orange meld into the racy finish. The Laguna Ridge is easily among the top Pinots of 2019, a year that was not at all easy for this notoriously fickle variety.

Producer Commentary:
This is a gorgeous set of wines from Kistler. The 2019 Chardonnays show the pedigree of the vintage in their nuance, character and site expression. As good as the Chardonnays are, the Pinots might be even more impressive, as the year was generally far less favorable for Pinot. Winemaker Jason Kesner describes 2019 as a year that was pretty similar to 2018, with the exception of warmer nights at the very end of the season. That ultimately led to a harvest that was a day or two earlier than 2018. Yields were on the generous side, as they were in 2018.
2011 Pinot Noir Occidental Station Cuvee Catherine
Color: Red

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 2014 - 2021

Tasting notes: Brisk, saline notes give the 2011 Pinot Noir Occidental Station Cuvee Catherine much of its energy and precision. The Cuvee Catherine remains quite powerful and inward, but at the same time, there is a lot going on in the glass. The small clusters of the Calera clone in this site pack the wine with notable fruit intensity. Though still not fully formed, I sense quite a bit of promise here.

Producer Commentary:
It is always a pleasure to visit with Steve Kistler and his partner Mark Bixler. The 2011s and 2010s are excellent across the board, although today, I have a preference for the 2011s. Vintage 2011 is shaping up beautifully, for both the Chardonnays and Pinots. As was the case throughout the region, the season was cool and slow to develop. The 2011s were picked at lower sugars than is the norm here, but very much in keeping with the personality of the year. Steve Kistler commented that a poor set in 2011 resulted in the lowest crop loads here in years. Like a lot of his colleagues, Kistler noted that the experiences of 2010 had a huge positive impact in how he responded to similar challenges in 2011. The 2010 Chardonnays are beautiful across the board. Although solid, the 2010 Pinots aren't quite at the level of the superb 2009s and I expect, ultimately, the 2011s. It was a tough vintage for the Pinots. Yields were mercilessly low. Sadly, there is no Cuvee Elizabeth, as the little fruit that came in went into the Kistler Vineyard bottling.
2010 Pinot Noir Occidental Station Cuvee Catherine
Color: Red

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 2014 - 2022

Tasting notes: The 2010 Pinot Noir Occidental Station Cuvee Catherine blasts from the glass with waves of seamless of dark fruit. A brooding wine, the Cuvee Catherine is endowed with serious power for the year. Ash, smoke, tobacco and incense add complexity as the wine opens up in the glass. The 2010 boasts serious structure, with big tannins supporting the huge, dramatic finish. Readers will have to give the 2010 another year or two in bottle. Today, it is the wine's structure that dominates. It will be very interesting to see the direction the 2010 takes over the coming years. 

Producer Commentary:
It is always a pleasure to visit with Steve Kistler and his partner Mark Bixler. The 2011s and 2010s are excellent across the board, although today, I have a preference for the 2011s. Vintage 2011 is shaping up beautifully, for both the Chardonnays and Pinots. As was the case throughout the region, the season was cool and slow to develop. The 2011s were picked at lower sugars than is the norm here, but very much in keeping with the personality of the year. Steve Kistler commented that a poor set in 2011 resulted in the lowest crop loads here in years. Like a lot of his colleagues, Kistler noted that the experiences of 2010 had a huge positive impact in how he responded to similar challenges in 2011. The 2010 Chardonnays are beautiful across the board. Although solid, the 2010 Pinots aren't quite at the level of the superb 2009s and I expect, ultimately, the 2011s. It was a tough vintage for the Pinots. Yields were mercilessly low. Sadly, there is no Cuvee Elizabeth, as the little fruit that came in went into the Kistler Vineyard bottling.
2005 Chardonnay Kistler Estate Vineyard Sonoma Valley
Color: White

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Vivid gold. Intensely mineral aromas of Meyer lemon, pear, apple and dusty talc. Fresh and energetic, offering tangy citrus and orchard fruit flavors and gaining spiciness with air. Finishes fleshy and broad, with excellent clarity. This won't let go of the palate.

Producer Commentary:
According to Steve Kistler, "2005 was just a wonderful growing season, with no heat spikes, and the fermentations were textbook, with long malos extending into the spring." He noted that he has cut back on his lees-stirring regimen "to better preserve purity." When I mentioned the depth and intensity of his pinot noirs, he told me that "with the Calera clone, it's easy to get that character," adding that he routinely brings in low yields-for example, less than a ton an acre from Occidental Station in 2005.
2001 Chardonnay Kistler Estate Vineyard Sonoma Valley
Color: White

Score: 94.5

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Rich yellow color. Rather full-blown, expressive aromas of peach, apricot, minerals, licorice and mint. Fat with peachy fruit and complicated by notes of white flowers and vanillin oak. A sweet, pliant fruit bomb with less of the mineral and sulfidey character shown by some of the other Kistler 2001s. And yet this is still rather unevolved; a few years in bottle should bring even more complexity. Very long on the aftertaste.

Producer Commentary:
Steve Kistler describes 2001 as "a wonderful vintage where the natural yeasts and malolactic bacteria behaved themselves nicely.We were able to sulfur the wines by the first of the new year," he went on. The pHs are in the 3.3 to 3.4 range, as low as in 2000. The wines are delicious now but should last well. There are no blowsy wines, and they show clear differences of vineyard character. I'd suggest drinking them beginning in 2006."Kistler went on to note that his chardonnays have a lower percentage of solids in them than in the past. He's also keeping the musts a bit warmer for the first 48 hours, and he believes that this has helped the yeasts work better. Once again, Kistler showed me only a single 2001 pinot noir, albeit his most important bottling in terms of cases produced.
2010 Chardonnay Kistler Estate Vineyard Sonoma Valley
Color: White

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Bright, green-tinged gold. Seductive, highly perfumed aromas of dried pear, lemon pith and white flowers, with iodine and honey nuances adding depth. Smooth and broad on entry, then brighter in the mid-palate, offering vibrant, mineral-accented orchard fruit and bitter citrus flavors and a note of sweet butter. Finishes sappy and extremely long, with resonating mineral and spice notes. Great energy and power.

Producer Commentary:
Aside from the obvious "stressful growing season and short crop," Steve Kistler is "very pleased with how 2010 has ultimately turned out" for both chardonnay and pinot noir.The coolness of the season encouraged the naturally low pHs and low sugars ("but with full ripeness") that Kistler seeks.According to Kistler, "They had the concentration to quickly and efficiently absorb the oak" and show a spiciness that makes for plenty of immediate appeal.The pinots "have a taut quality" that bodes well for aging, he says, adding that the late season heat spikes were mostly beneficial "if your vineyards were in cold, windy or high altitude spots and you hadn't gone too far with canopy thinning."
2000 Chardonnay Kistler Estate Vineyard Sonoma Valley
Color: White

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Bright lemon-yellow color. Deep, ripe aromas of spring flowers, clove oil and mint, with subtle hints of stone fruits. Fat, round and supple, with wonderfully sweet, seductive flavors of lemon cream, flowers and spices. Subtle, classy and mouthfilling. Then explosively rich and strong on the long, building finish.

Producer Commentary:
The wines here are finer than ever before, mostly avoiding the chewy, phenolic finishes that have long characterized these remarkably rich chardonnays. The level of solids in the wines is now down to 0.75%, according to Steve Kistler, who notes that "there's not a single lot of grapes that I don't press myself." In addition, Kistler is using less new oak today. The top wines in 1997 were 100% new oak, Kistler told me, but the 2000s are typically between 50% and 60%. Kistler described the 2000 vintage as resembling 1999 in that the wines are not overblown and possess good structure. In both years, he added, the flavors developed well at lower sugar levels. In contrast, the three previous vintages all produced chardonnays higher in alcohol.
1996 Chardonnay Kistler Estate Vineyard Sonoma Valley
Color: White

Score: 92.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Deeply pitched, somewhat exotic aromas of butterscotch, dried pit fruits, coconut, oak char and clove, plus a hint of spring flowers. Creamy but brisk in the mouth, with compelling delineation of flavor. Spicy and firm on the subtle finish, which features a note of spiced apple.

Producer Commentary:
Fans of Kistler chardonnay who are unable to track down this winery scarcer vineyard-designated bottlings should be happy to know that the more widely available Durell and Dutton Ranch chardonnays are both highly successful in '96. The chardonnays here typically get one-half to two-thirds new oak, though Steve Kistler emphasizes that the percentage of new wood varies by the wine and by the vintage. (Kistler Vineyards is one of the largest advance purchasers of Francois Freres barrels in California.) I was unable to taste the '97 chardonnays, as most of these wines were about to be bottled. Pinot noir is growing as a percentage of total Kistler production, but these wines are still extremely limited in the retail marketplace. The '96s I tasted are rare birds for California pinot noir: wines that offer mouthfilling richness and superb depth of flavor while retaining a sappy berry character and avoiding aromas and flavors of overripeness.
2007 Chardonnay Sonoma Coast
Color: White

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Yellow-gold. Compellingly aromatic nose offers orange oil, lemongrass, ginger and chamomile. Sharply delineated if quite backward today, offering intense citrus and orchard fruit flavors and intense florality. The orange note resonates with serious authority on the long, sappy, sharply focused finish.

Producer Commentary:
Steve Kistler told me that all of his chardonnays clock in at under 3.4 pH in 2007, and that this is a vintage "that's all about freshness and energy." He also thinks that they will enjoy a slow and positive evolution "because of their dry minerality, which makes them a little stand-offish at this early stage but bodes well for aging." Kistler uses 50% new barriques across the board for all his chardonnays and noted that of course drinkers will notice the oak influence if they consume the wines in the first couple of years after they're bottled. "We're not making wines that are going to show their true hand straight out of the gate," he said. "Some bottle age is necessary for the fermentation character to recede and the terroir to come forward."
1996 Chardonnay Dutton Ranch Russian River Valley
Color: White

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Green-gold. Extraordinarily penetrating, musky, Burgundian aromas are a cross between Chassagne truffle and herbs and Meursault roasted grain and toasted nuts (and the structure is akin to that of a Puligny). Great purity and intensity of fruit in the mouth; sharply focused and restrained today, with near-perfect fruit/acid balance. Finishes with terrific grip and palate-staining persistence.

Producer Commentary:
Fans of Kistler chardonnay who are unable to track down this winery scarcer vineyard-designated bottlings should be happy to know that the more widely available Durell and Dutton Ranch chardonnays are both highly successful in '96. The chardonnays here typically get one-half to two-thirds new oak, though Steve Kistler emphasizes that the percentage of new wood varies by the wine and by the vintage. (Kistler Vineyards is one of the largest advance purchasers of Francois Freres barrels in California.) I was unable to taste the '97 chardonnays, as most of these wines were about to be bottled. Pinot noir is growing as a percentage of total Kistler production, but these wines are still extremely limited in the retail marketplace. The '96s I tasted are rare birds for California pinot noir: wines that offer mouthfilling richness and superb depth of flavor while retaining a sappy berry character and avoiding aromas and flavors of overripeness.
2005 Pinot Noir Occidental Station Cuvee Catherine Sonoma Coast
Color: Red

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Deep ruby. Explosive perfumed aromas of black raspberry, cassis, mocha, tarragon and fresh rose. Intense dark fruit flavors are surprisingly lithe and admirably precise. Mineral and floral pastille character builds dramatically with air and carries through a long, strikingly sappy finish.

Producer Commentary:
According to Steve Kistler, "2005 was just a wonderful growing season, with no heat spikes, and the fermentations were textbook, with long malos extending into the spring." He noted that he has cut back on his lees-stirring regimen "to better preserve purity." When I mentioned the depth and intensity of his pinot noirs, he told me that "with the Calera clone, it's easy to get that character," adding that he routinely brings in low yields-for example, less than a ton an acre from Occidental Station in 2005.
2008 Pinot Noir Occidental Station Cuvee Catherine Sonoma Coast
Color: Red

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Glass-staining ruby. Highly perfumed, precise aromas of cherry, blackberry, licorice, herbs and violet; much darker in character than the preceding wines. Sweet and firm on entry, then fresh and aromatic in the mouth, with strong cherry and dark berry fruit supported by a firm spine of minerality. Finishes sweet and long. This is built to age.

Producer Commentary:
Steve Kistler and his assistant winemaker Jason Kesner described 2008 as "a vintage where there's very good concentration to the chardonnays but not too much." Kistler told me that his aim was "to get the wines to ferment to truly dry and to never use sugar. Sugar simplifies the fruit," he added, "and if you're trying to get real complexity, much less minerality and finesse, that's going to be very hard to achieve with added sugar." Speaking of finesse, I asked Kistler about the greater precision of his pinot noirs in recent vintages. He told me "it's all part of the fine-tuning to get to where we have expression but not too much weight." He explained that he had shortened the cold soaks of his pinot, "which seems to add lift to their aromas and has increased floral and spice character." Also recommended:
2010 Pinot Noir Occidental Station Cuvee Catherine Sonoma Coast
Color: Red

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Saturated ruby. Expansive, highly perfumed scents of raspberry and boysenberry preserves, cherry-cola and potpourri, plus a bright mineral note and a touch of allspice. Stains the palate with dark berry and exotic spice flavors, with smoky minerality adding lift and precision. Blends depth and vivacity smoothly and finishes with outstanding clarity and lingering sweetness. This sexy, deeply flavored wine is surprisingly approachable right now. (JR)

Producer Commentary:
Aside from the obvious "stressful growing season and short crop," Steve Kistler is "very pleased with how 2010 has ultimately turned out" for both chardonnay and pinot noir.The coolness of the season encouraged the naturally low pHs and low sugars ("but with full ripeness") that Kistler seeks.According to Kistler, "They had the concentration to quickly and efficiently absorb the oak" and show a spiciness that makes for plenty of immediate appeal.The pinots "have a taut quality" that bodes well for aging, he says, adding that the late season heat spikes were mostly beneficial "if your vineyards were in cold, windy or high altitude spots and you hadn't gone too far with canopy thinning."
2007 Pinot Noir Occidental Station Cuvee Catherine Sonoma Coast
Color: Red

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Vibrant ruby. Aromatic, high-pitched nose combines black raspberry, cherry, violet pastille and smoky minerals. Juicy, spicy and sweet, with a supple texture and excellent complexity to the flavors of dark berries, minerals and candied flowers. As densely packed as this is, it's extremely fresh as well, finishing with a fine dusting of tannins and incisive, spicy length.

Producer Commentary:
Steve Kistler told me that all of his chardonnays clock in at under 3.4 pH in 2007, and that this is a vintage "that's all about freshness and energy." He also thinks that they will enjoy a slow and positive evolution "because of their dry minerality, which makes them a little stand-offish at this early stage but bodes well for aging." Kistler uses 50% new barriques across the board for all his chardonnays and noted that of course drinkers will notice the oak influence if they consume the wines in the first couple of years after they're bottled. "We're not making wines that are going to show their true hand straight out of the gate," he said. "Some bottle age is necessary for the fermentation character to recede and the terroir to come forward."
2010 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 92.0

Drinking window: 2013 - 2018

Tasting notes: The 2010 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard is one of the most reticent wines in this range. Hints of butter, passion fruit and French oak emerge over time, but the 2010 remains difficult to assess as today, the structural elements dominate. There is a lot going on in the glass, though. This is one of the few 2010s that could benefit from another 6-12 months in bottle, as the elements aren't quite in place yet. 

Producer Commentary:
It is always a pleasure to visit with Steve Kistler and his partner Mark Bixler. The 2011s and 2010s are excellent across the board, although today, I have a preference for the 2011s. Vintage 2011 is shaping up beautifully, for both the Chardonnays and Pinots. As was the case throughout the region, the season was cool and slow to develop. The 2011s were picked at lower sugars than is the norm here, but very much in keeping with the personality of the year. Steve Kistler commented that a poor set in 2011 resulted in the lowest crop loads here in years. Like a lot of his colleagues, Kistler noted that the experiences of 2010 had a huge positive impact in how he responded to similar challenges in 2011. The 2010 Chardonnays are beautiful across the board. Although solid, the 2010 Pinots aren't quite at the level of the superb 2009s and I expect, ultimately, the 2011s. It was a tough vintage for the Pinots. Yields were mercilessly low. Sadly, there is no Cuvee Elizabeth, as the little fruit that came in went into the Kistler Vineyard bottling.
2006 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard Carneros
Color: White

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Yellow-gold. Deep, leesy aromas of pear, tangerine and smoked meat, with a strong undertone of iodine. Weightier and rounder than the Hudson, with palate-saturating citrus and orchard fruit flavors and chewy texture. Becomes spicier with air and finishes with sweet, lingering citrus and mineral qualities. I suspect that this and the McCrea will be drinking well before the rest of these single-vineyard bottlings.

Producer Commentary:
Steve Kistler works exclusively with traditional California clones for both chardonnay (such as Wente, Hyde and Mount Eden) and pinot noir (Pommard, Swan, Calera) because he believes that the Dijon clones planted in the warmer areas of the North Coast "give fruit opulence but at the expense of the minerality we like." Halfway through this year's tasting it struck me that one would be hard-pressed to find a set of more mineral-driven chardonnays anywhere today, even from Burgundy. Kistler attributes this characteristic to the aforementioned heirloom clones as well as to the fact that he works "in cool, stony vineyards that are moderated by wind and fog and have the right exposures." He told me that in 2006 all of his pinot noir was picked at, or under, 24o Brix, which means less than 13.5% potential alcohol.
2008 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard Carneros
Color: White

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Bright gold. Pure, mineral-accented aromas of pink grapefruit, lime, pear skin and wild herbs. Taut and spicy, with salty minerality lifting musky peach pit and orchard fruit flavors. Slow to unwind and dominated by its mineral component today. Finishes with lingering smokiness and excellent persistence. This will age slowly.

Producer Commentary:
Steve Kistler and his assistant winemaker Jason Kesner described 2008 as "a vintage where there's very good concentration to the chardonnays but not too much." Kistler told me that his aim was "to get the wines to ferment to truly dry and to never use sugar. Sugar simplifies the fruit," he added, "and if you're trying to get real complexity, much less minerality and finesse, that's going to be very hard to achieve with added sugar." Speaking of finesse, I asked Kistler about the greater precision of his pinot noirs in recent vintages. He told me "it's all part of the fine-tuning to get to where we have expression but not too much weight." He explained that he had shortened the cold soaks of his pinot, "which seems to add lift to their aromas and has increased floral and spice character." Also recommended:
2014 Chardonnay Trenton Roadhouse
Color: White

Score: 91.5

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: The 2014 Chardonnay Trenton Roadhouse is one of the most airy, weightless wines in this range. Floral, mint and orchard fruit notes all meld together effortlessly. It will be interesting to see if the 2014 puts on more weight in bottle. Today it is aromatically expressive, but a bit more elusive on the palate.

Producer Commentary:
I tasted a wide range of wines during two recent visits with Steve Kistler, his business partner Mark Bixler, and winemaker Jason Kesner. In 2013, the Chardonnays are more consistent across the board than the Pinots. Yields were naturally high in 2013, largely the result of large berries, which seems to have affected the Pinots more than the Chardonnays. In 2014, it is the exact opposite. Lower yields and small berries helped create ideal conditions for making superb Pinot Noir. The 2014 Chardonnays are more variable than the Pinots today, but better wines suggest there is plenty of latent potential in some of these wines that is not obvious today.
2004 Chardonnay Mccrea Vineyard Sonoma Mountain
Color: White

Score: 90.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Medium gold. Honeyed pear and peach on the nose, with a bright mineral overlay. More crisp in the mouth, with energetic citrus and pear flavors and a refreshing minerality that reminded me of Chablis. Finishes on a bright, spicy note, with excellent length.

Producer Commentary:
Steve Kistler believes that whole-cluster fermentation gives much more complexity to his wines and does not rack them until bottling. These nuanced, mineral-driven chardonnays do more than wink at Burgundy: they often outdo their Old World counterparts with their complex leesy character. "You're not going to find fruit-driven wines here," Kistler said. He advises drinking his chardonnays at about four to six years though he acknowledges that they can go further-"But at four to six you won't be disappointed." Kistler is very high on his 2004s, believing that they are among the strongest and liveliest sets of wine he has made to date. "They had very low pHs and the fermentations went slowly," he told me.
2009 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard Carneros
Color: White

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Vivid yellow-gold. Pungent, mineral-dominated bouquet evokes fresh citrus fruits, honeysuckle and iodine, with a bright, spicy topnote. Stains the palate with intense lemon, orange and ginger flavors, gaining sweetness and depth with air. Refuses to let go of the palate, finishing with a nervy stony character, resonating spiciness and outstanding persistence.

Producer Commentary:
"A great vintage, for both pinot and chardonnay," is how Steve Kistler described 2009 to me. "We got full ripeness and a good quantity of fruit, healthy and fully mature at low Brix levels." By low Brix Kistler means somewhere in the 22 to 23 range. "It's completely possible to make intense, deeply flavored wines at those ripeness levels," he said, adding that he prefers brightness over sheer mass. Kistler added that all of his wines fermented to "bone dry" in 2009, noting that he never adds sugar, acids or enzymes to his wines. He told me that he especially likes the structure imparted by the Calera selection of pinot noir and the minerality achieved by the old Wente clones of chardonnay. He reiterated his feeling that the Dijon clones of both chardonnay and pinot noir don't suit his style as they tend to overcrop and overemphasize fruitiness.
2012 Chardonnay Durell Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 2015 - 2022

Tasting notes: The 2012 Chardonnay Durell Vineyard is quite floral and lifted in this vintage, with expressive aromatics and a bit less in the way of overt fruit next to some of the other wines in the range. Green apple, pear, white flowers and mint all add complexity in an ethereal, beautifully perfumed Chardonnay. Hints of almond, hazelnut and sweet spices linger on the pointed, delineated finish.

Producer Commentary:
This is a brilliant set of wines from Steve Kistler and his longtime business partner Mark Bixler. According to Kistler, the cool 2011 vintage had little effect on the Chardonnays, all of which were picked at their levels of ripeness, which as I have written previously, are lower than was the norm up until a few years ago. Sugars were harder to come by in the Pinot Noirs, all of which have lower pHs and a little less ripeness than is typically the case. That may be why the 2011 Pinots were so slow to reveal themselves. All of the 2011s were made with native fermentations and were racked only in preparation for bottling, which was done without fining or filtration. The wines were aged in 50% new oak barrels, mostly from François Frères. I also tasted the 2012s from tank, just prior to bottling. Today, the wines show terrific balance and tons of potential. I can hardly wait to taste the wines once they are in bottle. Readers may be aware that Kistler has been partly owned by an investor group for the last six years. Steve Kistler remains CEO and in charge of day to day operations, but has also begun a new Pinot Noir project, Occidental, which is reviewed separately. Going forward, two of the flagship Kistler Pinots, the Cuvée Catherine and Cuvée Elizabeth, will be sold under the Occidental label, so Kistler fans will want to consult those reviews for more information on the wines and the project as a whole. Needless to say, it will be interesting to see what Steve Kistler comes up with in the next phase of what has been a brilliant career.
1998 Chardonnay Kistler Estate Vineyard Sonoma Valley
Color: White

Score: 91.5

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Brooding aromas of hazelnut, fig, caraway seed and roasted nuts; hinted at dried fruits with aeration. Quite powerful and chewy, with flavors of soft citrus fruits. Very unevolved today; the only one of these '98 chardonnays showing its alcohol at the moment.

Producer Commentary:
2015 Pinot Noir Kistler Vineyard
Color: Red

Score: 95.5

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: The 2015 Pinot Noir Kistler Vineyard exudes depth, power and concentration. Extroverted and ample, the 2015 boasts magnificent richness from start to finish. Inky blue and purplish fruit, lavender, violets and licorice are fused together in the glass. The 2015 is likely to require some time to come together, but it won't be released before 2018. A final taste reveals a creamy, voluptuous Pinot with a very bright future. 

Producer Commentary:
Kistler's 2015s are fabulous. Yields were down 25-30% across the board, which gives the wines notable textural richness and intensity. At the same time, acidities stayed high. The interplay of deep fruit and salivating acidity is the key attribute of these wines, and of the vintage more broadly. Two thousand fifteen is the first year in which some of the Pinot lots were done with whole clusters (on the Cuvée Natalie). In 2016, Kistler doubled the number of lots fermented with stems. The bottled 2014s are consistent with how they showed from tank prior to bottling. Readers will not want to miss the 2014 Pinots, as they are fabulous. The 2014 Chardonnays are attractive, but they are also a bit diffuse and not quite as focused as in the very best years. Yields were lower for Pinot Noir than Chardonnay, which may explain why the Pinots have an extra dimension of clarity.
2015 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvée Cathleen
Color: White

Score: 94.5

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: The 2015 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvée Cathleen is ethereal and gracious, with plenty of textural richness expressed in an understated style. Lemon confit, white flowers, mint, white orchard fruit and a touch of French oak are the signatures. Lifted in feel, the 2015 speaks to nuance, clarity and delineation.

Producer Commentary:
Kistler's 2015s are fabulous. Yields were down 25-30% across the board, which gives the wines notable textural richness and intensity. At the same time, acidities stayed high. The interplay of deep fruit and salivating acidity is the key attribute of these wines, and of the vintage more broadly. Two thousand fifteen is the first year in which some of the Pinot lots were done with whole clusters (on the Cuvée Natalie). In 2016, Kistler doubled the number of lots fermented with stems. The bottled 2014s are consistent with how they showed from tank prior to bottling. Readers will not want to miss the 2014 Pinots, as they are fabulous. The 2014 Chardonnays are attractive, but they are also a bit diffuse and not quite as focused as in the very best years. Yields were lower for Pinot Noir than Chardonnay, which may explain why the Pinots have an extra dimension of clarity.
2015 Chardonnay Les Noisetiers
Color: White

Score: 91.0

Drinking window: 2017 - 2021

Tasting notes: The 2015 Chardonnay Les Noisetiers is quite rich, which is hardly surprising given the personality of the year. Tropical fruit, dried pear, smoke, slate and orange blossom resonate on the palate. Richly textured and inviting, the 2015 will drink well right out of the gate. This is a gorgeous wine from Kistler, and also a terrific introduction to the vintage. 

Producer Commentary:
Kistler's 2015s are fabulous. Yields were down 25-30% across the board, which gives the wines notable textural richness and intensity. At the same time, acidities stayed high. The interplay of deep fruit and salivating acidity is the key attribute of these wines, and of the vintage more broadly. Two thousand fifteen is the first year in which some of the Pinot lots were done with whole clusters (on the Cuvée Natalie). In 2016, Kistler doubled the number of lots fermented with stems. The bottled 2014s are consistent with how they showed from tank prior to bottling. Readers will not want to miss the 2014 Pinots, as they are fabulous. The 2014 Chardonnays are attractive, but they are also a bit diffuse and not quite as focused as in the very best years. Yields were lower for Pinot Noir than Chardonnay, which may explain why the Pinots have an extra dimension of clarity.
2013 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvée Cathleen
Color: White

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 2017 - 2023

Tasting notes: The 2013 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvée Cathleen is sourced from a parcel on the property planted with Wente Clone Chardonnay on modern rootstock, which seems to bring out more of the phenolic, mountain structure of the site. Deeply layered, resonant and exotic, the Cuvée Cathleen is showing beautifully today. 

Producer Commentary:
I tasted a wide range of wines during two recent visits with Steve Kistler, his business partner Mark Bixler, and winemaker Jason Kesner. In 2013, the Chardonnays are more consistent across the board than the Pinots. Yields were naturally high in 2013, largely the result of large berries, which seems to have affected the Pinots more than the Chardonnays. In 2014, it is the exact opposite. Lower yields and small berries helped create ideal conditions for making superb Pinot Noir. The 2014 Chardonnays are more variable than the Pinots today, but better wines suggest there is plenty of latent potential in some of these wines that is not obvious today.
2003 Chardonnay Durell Vineyard Sonoma Coast
Color: White

Score: 92.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Medium yellow. Warm gingery spices and nutty oak add interest to the pineapple aroma. Lush, sweet and spicy, if a bit youthfully subdued, with very ripe notes of peach and nectarine. This comes across as less obviously ripe than the McCrea or Dutton Ranch bottlings-or is it simply more understated? There's lovely acidity and very good persistence. The crop level here was half of normal due to a poor set.

Producer Commentary:
Steve Kistler was quite excited about the quality of the 2005s, which he feels may be his best wines yet. But he described the 2003s as "rich and high in extract, with excellent structure. "Alcohol levels are in the mid-14s, which is about normal for this producer today. "We started harvesting on the late side, but the harvest took place during a fairly hot period and was more compact than usual," noted Kistler, who considers the 2003s to be a medium- to long-term ager by the standards of his wines. "In 2003 we have acids about as good as we've gotten to date, except for 2005," he told me, "but acids accompanied by thoroughly ripe fruit. "Kistler showed me a couple of very strong pinots at the end of our tasting. He feels he has turned the corner on pinot in 2002 and 2003, through a combination of slightly earlier picking and cooler fermentation temperatures. Still, he noted, whereas "we made red fruit pinots six or seven years ago," (wines he described as more Burgundian in character), "our clients expect to find black fruit flavors in our wines. "
2004 Chardonnay Vine Hill Vineyard Russian River Valley
Color: White

Score: 91.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Green-gold. Ripe, lush scents of poached pear, yellow apple and peach, with a strong stony overlay. Bright and precise, with energetic stone fruit flavors and a building mineral impression. Very energetic on the finish, picking up hints of quinine and jasmine. Kistler suggests drinking this in 2008 or 2009.

Producer Commentary:
Steve Kistler believes that whole-cluster fermentation gives much more complexity to his wines and does not rack them until bottling. These nuanced, mineral-driven chardonnays do more than wink at Burgundy: they often outdo their Old World counterparts with their complex leesy character. "You're not going to find fruit-driven wines here," Kistler said. He advises drinking his chardonnays at about four to six years though he acknowledges that they can go further-"But at four to six you won't be disappointed." Kistler is very high on his 2004s, believing that they are among the strongest and liveliest sets of wine he has made to date. "They had very low pHs and the fermentations went slowly," he told me.
2003 Pinot Noir Cuvee Catherine Russian River Valley
Color: Red

Score: 93.5

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: (all from a single vineyard planted in shallow soil on rolling hillsides; this wine will be labeled Occidental Station beginning with the 2004 release) Deep ruby-red. Pungent aromas of black raspberry and pepper; less fruity today than the Kistler Vineyard example. Then denser and thicker in the mouth, if not quite as sharply delineated as the Kistler Vineyard bottling. Offers a very pure flavor of dark raspberry and a chewy impression of extract. Wonderfully ripe but with a nicely restrained sweetness. This has terrific fruit.

Producer Commentary:
Steve Kistler was quite excited about the quality of the 2005s, which he feels may be his best wines yet. But he described the 2003s as "rich and high in extract, with excellent structure. "Alcohol levels are in the mid-14s, which is about normal for this producer today. "We started harvesting on the late side, but the harvest took place during a fairly hot period and was more compact than usual," noted Kistler, who considers the 2003s to be a medium- to long-term ager by the standards of his wines. "In 2003 we have acids about as good as we've gotten to date, except for 2005," he told me, "but acids accompanied by thoroughly ripe fruit. "Kistler showed me a couple of very strong pinots at the end of our tasting. He feels he has turned the corner on pinot in 2002 and 2003, through a combination of slightly earlier picking and cooler fermentation temperatures. Still, he noted, whereas "we made red fruit pinots six or seven years ago," (wines he described as more Burgundian in character), "our clients expect to find black fruit flavors in our wines. "
2015 Pinot Noir Laguna Ridge (Formerly Kistler Vineyard)
Color: Red

Score: 98.0

Drinking window: 2018 - 2030

Tasting notes: The 2015 Pinot Noir Laguna Ridge (formerly Kistler Vineyard) is just as riveting from bottle as it was from tank. Inky, deep and explosive, the 2015 hits the palate with a rush of blue/purplish fruit, creme de cassis, lavender, menthol, game, white flowers and incense. Vivid and spectacularly rich, this full-throttle Pinot has so much to offer. The tannins need time to soften, but all the elements are in the right place. A flourish of floral and savory notes add the closing layers of complexity. 

Producer Commentary:
My most recent visit to Kistler was quite poignant, as it was really emblematic of a new chapter in the history of this illustrious winery. To be sure, many of the recent changes have been in the works for some time. Steve Kistler has now moved on from the winery he founded in 1978 and set up shop at Occidental. Jason Kesner, Kistler's colleague for nearly a decade, has taken over the reins as part of a long-term succession plan that has been in place for many years. Kesner has been in every tasting I have done at Kistler since 2011. His relationship with Steve Kistler goes back quite further, to the days when Kesner was running Hudson Vineyards. Much less expected was the sudden passing of Mark Bixler, Steve Kistler's long-term business partner. Bixler had also been in all of my previous tastings at the winery. The last time I heard from Bixler was in October, right after the wildfires had burned his home. He seemed in good spirits. Then, a few weeks later, he was gone. Life can be so fleeting. As for the wines, 2015 looks more like a Pinot Noir year than a Chardonnay year at Kistler. The 2015 Pinots are off the charts great. Overall, the Chardonnays have good freshness, but the unnaturally compacted, hot growing season and early harvest appear to have attenuated some of the site-specific differences that are typically present in the wines. This seems especially true of the Hyde and Hudson Chardonnays. Readers will note that there is a name change on what was formerly the Kistler Vineyard Pinot Noir. In the past, there was some confusion in naming, because the Kistler Vineyard Chardonnays and Pinot Noir actually were made from different sites, the former from the Kistler Vineyard on Moon Mountain and the latter from the Kistler Vineyard in the Russian River. Going forward, there is no change for the Chardonnays, both of which are still made from the Kistler Vineyard on Moon Mountain. The Russian River Kistler Vineyard has been renamed Laguna Ridge, and is the source of a new Chardonnay as well as the Pinot that was previously named Kistler Vineyard. Ordinarily, I would have also reported on the 2016s prior to botting, but the October fires made that impossible.

(Originally published in Sonoma Preview: January 2018 New Releases)
2015 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvée Cathleen
Color: White

Score: 96.0

Drinking window: 2018 - 2030

Tasting notes: The 2015 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvée Cathleen is ample, full-bodied and distinctive, as it always is. Distinctly mineral and savory, the Cuvée Cathleen captures the magic of this tenderloin within the west-facing section of Steve Kistler's original Moon Mountain vineyard. As always, the Cuvée Cathleen is a Chardonnay of phenolic intensity and structure, with explosive energy and tons of personality. 

Producer Commentary:
My most recent visit to Kistler was quite poignant, as it was really emblematic of a new chapter in the history of this illustrious winery. To be sure, many of the recent changes have been in the works for some time. Steve Kistler has now moved on from the winery he founded in 1978 and set up shop at Occidental. Jason Kesner, Kistler's colleague for nearly a decade, has taken over the reins as part of a long-term succession plan that has been in place for many years. Kesner has been in every tasting I have done at Kistler since 2011. His relationship with Steve Kistler goes back quite further, to the days when Kesner was running Hudson Vineyards. Much less expected was the sudden passing of Mark Bixler, Steve Kistler's long-term business partner. Bixler had also been in all of my previous tastings at the winery. The last time I heard from Bixler was in October, right after the wildfires had burned his home. He seemed in good spirits. Then, a few weeks later, he was gone. Life can be so fleeting. As for the wines, 2015 looks more like a Pinot Noir year than a Chardonnay year at Kistler. The 2015 Pinots are off the charts great. Overall, the Chardonnays have good freshness, but the unnaturally compacted, hot growing season and early harvest appear to have attenuated some of the site-specific differences that are typically present in the wines. This seems especially true of the Hyde and Hudson Chardonnays. Readers will note that there is a name change on what was formerly the Kistler Vineyard Pinot Noir. In the past, there was some confusion in naming, because the Kistler Vineyard Chardonnays and Pinot Noir actually were made from different sites, the former from the Kistler Vineyard on Moon Mountain and the latter from the Kistler Vineyard in the Russian River. Going forward, there is no change for the Chardonnays, both of which are still made from the Kistler Vineyard on Moon Mountain. The Russian River Kistler Vineyard has been renamed Laguna Ridge, and is the source of a new Chardonnay as well as the Pinot that was previously named Kistler Vineyard. Ordinarily, I would have also reported on the 2016s prior to botting, but the October fires made that impossible.

(Originally published in Sonoma Preview: January 2018 New Releases)
2015 Chardonnay Vine Hill Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 2018 - 2023

Tasting notes: The 2015 Chardonnay Vine Hill Vineyard offers striking finesse to play off a tropically-leaning profile that is somewhat unusual for this wine. Scents of tangerine, pineapple, mint and dried flowers are nicely delineated. Medium in body but with superb depth, the 2015 has a lot to say. The 2015 finishes with substantial weight and gravitas that only add to its considerable appeal. Over the last year, the fruit expression has become more overt than it was at the outset.

Producer Commentary:
My most recent visit to Kistler was quite poignant, as it was really emblematic of a new chapter in the history of this illustrious winery. To be sure, many of the recent changes have been in the works for some time. Steve Kistler has now moved on from the winery he founded in 1978 and set up shop at Occidental. Jason Kesner, Kistler's colleague for nearly a decade, has taken over the reins as part of a long-term succession plan that has been in place for many years. Kesner has been in every tasting I have done at Kistler since 2011. His relationship with Steve Kistler goes back quite further, to the days when Kesner was running Hudson Vineyards. Much less expected was the sudden passing of Mark Bixler, Steve Kistler's long-term business partner. Bixler had also been in all of my previous tastings at the winery. The last time I heard from Bixler was in October, right after the wildfires had burned his home. He seemed in good spirits. Then, a few weeks later, he was gone. Life can be so fleeting. As for the wines, 2015 looks more like a Pinot Noir year than a Chardonnay year at Kistler. The 2015 Pinots are off the charts great. Overall, the Chardonnays have good freshness, but the unnaturally compacted, hot growing season and early harvest appear to have attenuated some of the site-specific differences that are typically present in the wines. This seems especially true of the Hyde and Hudson Chardonnays. Readers will note that there is a name change on what was formerly the Kistler Vineyard Pinot Noir. In the past, there was some confusion in naming, because the Kistler Vineyard Chardonnays and Pinot Noir actually were made from different sites, the former from the Kistler Vineyard on Moon Mountain and the latter from the Kistler Vineyard in the Russian River. Going forward, there is no change for the Chardonnays, both of which are still made from the Kistler Vineyard on Moon Mountain. The Russian River Kistler Vineyard has been renamed Laguna Ridge, and is the source of a new Chardonnay as well as the Pinot that was previously named Kistler Vineyard. Ordinarily, I would have also reported on the 2016s prior to botting, but the October fires made that impossible.

(Originally published in Sonoma Preview: January 2018 New Releases)
2015 Chardonnay Laguna Ridge (Magnum)
Color: White

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 2020 - 2028

Tasting notes: An addition to the range, the 2015 Chardonnay Laguna Ridge was bottled only in magnum. The 2015 is wonderfully translucent, with striking layers of nuance and flavor buttressed by a backbone of salinity. One of the more focused, vibrant wines in this range, the Laguna Ridge is also one of the few wines in this range I would be tempted to cellar for a few years. Part of that is the magnum only format of course. Hints of smoke, dried pear and graphite add the closing shades of complexity in this deeply expressive Chardonnay. 

Producer Commentary:
My most recent visit to Kistler was quite poignant, as it was really emblematic of a new chapter in the history of this illustrious winery. To be sure, many of the recent changes have been in the works for some time. Steve Kistler has now moved on from the winery he founded in 1978 and set up shop at Occidental. Jason Kesner, Kistler's colleague for nearly a decade, has taken over the reins as part of a long-term succession plan that has been in place for many years. Kesner has been in every tasting I have done at Kistler since 2011. His relationship with Steve Kistler goes back quite further, to the days when Kesner was running Hudson Vineyards. Much less expected was the sudden passing of Mark Bixler, Steve Kistler's long-term business partner. Bixler had also been in all of my previous tastings at the winery. The last time I heard from Bixler was in October, right after the wildfires had burned his home. He seemed in good spirits. Then, a few weeks later, he was gone. Life can be so fleeting. As for the wines, 2015 looks more like a Pinot Noir year than a Chardonnay year at Kistler. The 2015 Pinots are off the charts great. Overall, the Chardonnays have good freshness, but the unnaturally compacted, hot growing season and early harvest appear to have attenuated some of the site-specific differences that are typically present in the wines. This seems especially true of the Hyde and Hudson Chardonnays. Readers will note that there is a name change on what was formerly the Kistler Vineyard Pinot Noir. In the past, there was some confusion in naming, because the Kistler Vineyard Chardonnays and Pinot Noir actually were made from different sites, the former from the Kistler Vineyard on Moon Mountain and the latter from the Kistler Vineyard in the Russian River. Going forward, there is no change for the Chardonnays, both of which are still made from the Kistler Vineyard on Moon Mountain. The Russian River Kistler Vineyard has been renamed Laguna Ridge, and is the source of a new Chardonnay as well as the Pinot that was previously named Kistler Vineyard. Ordinarily, I would have also reported on the 2016s prior to botting, but the October fires made that impossible.

(Originally published in Sonoma Preview: January 2018 New Releases)
2015 Chardonnay Dutton Ranch
Color: White

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 2018 - 2023

Tasting notes: The 2015 Chardonnay Dutton Ranch is another rich, ample wine. Here, the interplay of bright minerality, savoriness and structure is quite appealing. Sage, menthol, dried pear and chamomile add layers of dimension to this very pretty, layered Chardonnay. All the elements simply fall into place in this effortless, super-distinctive wine. 

Producer Commentary:
My most recent visit to Kistler was quite poignant, as it was really emblematic of a new chapter in the history of this illustrious winery. To be sure, many of the recent changes have been in the works for some time. Steve Kistler has now moved on from the winery he founded in 1978 and set up shop at Occidental. Jason Kesner, Kistler's colleague for nearly a decade, has taken over the reins as part of a long-term succession plan that has been in place for many years. Kesner has been in every tasting I have done at Kistler since 2011. His relationship with Steve Kistler goes back quite further, to the days when Kesner was running Hudson Vineyards. Much less expected was the sudden passing of Mark Bixler, Steve Kistler's long-term business partner. Bixler had also been in all of my previous tastings at the winery. The last time I heard from Bixler was in October, right after the wildfires had burned his home. He seemed in good spirits. Then, a few weeks later, he was gone. Life can be so fleeting. As for the wines, 2015 looks more like a Pinot Noir year than a Chardonnay year at Kistler. The 2015 Pinots are off the charts great. Overall, the Chardonnays have good freshness, but the unnaturally compacted, hot growing season and early harvest appear to have attenuated some of the site-specific differences that are typically present in the wines. This seems especially true of the Hyde and Hudson Chardonnays. Readers will note that there is a name change on what was formerly the Kistler Vineyard Pinot Noir. In the past, there was some confusion in naming, because the Kistler Vineyard Chardonnays and Pinot Noir actually were made from different sites, the former from the Kistler Vineyard on Moon Mountain and the latter from the Kistler Vineyard in the Russian River. Going forward, there is no change for the Chardonnays, both of which are still made from the Kistler Vineyard on Moon Mountain. The Russian River Kistler Vineyard has been renamed Laguna Ridge, and is the source of a new Chardonnay as well as the Pinot that was previously named Kistler Vineyard. Ordinarily, I would have also reported on the 2016s prior to botting, but the October fires made that impossible.

(Originally published in Sonoma Preview: January 2018 New Releases)
2015 Chardonnay Trenton Roadhouse
Color: White

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 2018 - 2023

Tasting notes: The 2015 Chardonnay Trenton Roadhouse is deep, powerful and quite expressive, with a distinctive stony character that marks the mid-palate. Orchard fruit and floral notes appear later, but the Trenton Roadhouse is defined by its center of minerality and savory notes that dominate over the more obvious expression of fruit that is found in some of the other wines.

Producer Commentary:
My most recent visit to Kistler was quite poignant, as it was really emblematic of a new chapter in the history of this illustrious winery. To be sure, many of the recent changes have been in the works for some time. Steve Kistler has now moved on from the winery he founded in 1978 and set up shop at Occidental. Jason Kesner, Kistler's colleague for nearly a decade, has taken over the reins as part of a long-term succession plan that has been in place for many years. Kesner has been in every tasting I have done at Kistler since 2011. His relationship with Steve Kistler goes back quite further, to the days when Kesner was running Hudson Vineyards. Much less expected was the sudden passing of Mark Bixler, Steve Kistler's long-term business partner. Bixler had also been in all of my previous tastings at the winery. The last time I heard from Bixler was in October, right after the wildfires had burned his home. He seemed in good spirits. Then, a few weeks later, he was gone. Life can be so fleeting. As for the wines, 2015 looks more like a Pinot Noir year than a Chardonnay year at Kistler. The 2015 Pinots are off the charts great. Overall, the Chardonnays have good freshness, but the unnaturally compacted, hot growing season and early harvest appear to have attenuated some of the site-specific differences that are typically present in the wines. This seems especially true of the Hyde and Hudson Chardonnays. Readers will note that there is a name change on what was formerly the Kistler Vineyard Pinot Noir. In the past, there was some confusion in naming, because the Kistler Vineyard Chardonnays and Pinot Noir actually were made from different sites, the former from the Kistler Vineyard on Moon Mountain and the latter from the Kistler Vineyard in the Russian River. Going forward, there is no change for the Chardonnays, both of which are still made from the Kistler Vineyard on Moon Mountain. The Russian River Kistler Vineyard has been renamed Laguna Ridge, and is the source of a new Chardonnay as well as the Pinot that was previously named Kistler Vineyard. Ordinarily, I would have also reported on the 2016s prior to botting, but the October fires made that impossible.

(Originally published in Sonoma Preview: January 2018 New Releases)
2015 Chardonnay Stone Flat Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 2018 - 2023

Tasting notes: The 2015 Chardonnay Stone Flat Vineyard is marked by expressive citrus and floral notes, with a bit more lift, translucence and brighter acids than the Durrell, which lies a few feet away and is planted with the same clonal material, but on different rootstock. Even with all of the natural richness of the year, the Stone Flat is quite gracious and delicate. Bright, saline notes extend the finish nicely.

Producer Commentary:
My most recent visit to Kistler was quite poignant, as it was really emblematic of a new chapter in the history of this illustrious winery. To be sure, many of the recent changes have been in the works for some time. Steve Kistler has now moved on from the winery he founded in 1978 and set up shop at Occidental. Jason Kesner, Kistler's colleague for nearly a decade, has taken over the reins as part of a long-term succession plan that has been in place for many years. Kesner has been in every tasting I have done at Kistler since 2011. His relationship with Steve Kistler goes back quite further, to the days when Kesner was running Hudson Vineyards. Much less expected was the sudden passing of Mark Bixler, Steve Kistler's long-term business partner. Bixler had also been in all of my previous tastings at the winery. The last time I heard from Bixler was in October, right after the wildfires had burned his home. He seemed in good spirits. Then, a few weeks later, he was gone. Life can be so fleeting. As for the wines, 2015 looks more like a Pinot Noir year than a Chardonnay year at Kistler. The 2015 Pinots are off the charts great. Overall, the Chardonnays have good freshness, but the unnaturally compacted, hot growing season and early harvest appear to have attenuated some of the site-specific differences that are typically present in the wines. This seems especially true of the Hyde and Hudson Chardonnays. Readers will note that there is a name change on what was formerly the Kistler Vineyard Pinot Noir. In the past, there was some confusion in naming, because the Kistler Vineyard Chardonnays and Pinot Noir actually were made from different sites, the former from the Kistler Vineyard on Moon Mountain and the latter from the Kistler Vineyard in the Russian River. Going forward, there is no change for the Chardonnays, both of which are still made from the Kistler Vineyard on Moon Mountain. The Russian River Kistler Vineyard has been renamed Laguna Ridge, and is the source of a new Chardonnay as well as the Pinot that was previously named Kistler Vineyard. Ordinarily, I would have also reported on the 2016s prior to botting, but the October fires made that impossible.

(Originally published in Sonoma Preview: January 2018 New Releases)
2015 Chardonnay Durell Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 2018 - 2023

Tasting notes: Breadth, power and richness are the signatures in the 2015 Chardonnay Durell Vineyard. The 2015 has really come together nicely over the last year. Creamy and generous, with terrific resonance, the Durell will appeal most to readers who like larger Chardonnays. Naturally forming small clusters and small berries in these diseased vines give the Durell much of its distinctive personality.

Producer Commentary:
My most recent visit to Kistler was quite poignant, as it was really emblematic of a new chapter in the history of this illustrious winery. To be sure, many of the recent changes have been in the works for some time. Steve Kistler has now moved on from the winery he founded in 1978 and set up shop at Occidental. Jason Kesner, Kistler's colleague for nearly a decade, has taken over the reins as part of a long-term succession plan that has been in place for many years. Kesner has been in every tasting I have done at Kistler since 2011. His relationship with Steve Kistler goes back quite further, to the days when Kesner was running Hudson Vineyards. Much less expected was the sudden passing of Mark Bixler, Steve Kistler's long-term business partner. Bixler had also been in all of my previous tastings at the winery. The last time I heard from Bixler was in October, right after the wildfires had burned his home. He seemed in good spirits. Then, a few weeks later, he was gone. Life can be so fleeting. As for the wines, 2015 looks more like a Pinot Noir year than a Chardonnay year at Kistler. The 2015 Pinots are off the charts great. Overall, the Chardonnays have good freshness, but the unnaturally compacted, hot growing season and early harvest appear to have attenuated some of the site-specific differences that are typically present in the wines. This seems especially true of the Hyde and Hudson Chardonnays. Readers will note that there is a name change on what was formerly the Kistler Vineyard Pinot Noir. In the past, there was some confusion in naming, because the Kistler Vineyard Chardonnays and Pinot Noir actually were made from different sites, the former from the Kistler Vineyard on Moon Mountain and the latter from the Kistler Vineyard in the Russian River. Going forward, there is no change for the Chardonnays, both of which are still made from the Kistler Vineyard on Moon Mountain. The Russian River Kistler Vineyard has been renamed Laguna Ridge, and is the source of a new Chardonnay as well as the Pinot that was previously named Kistler Vineyard. Ordinarily, I would have also reported on the 2016s prior to botting, but the October fires made that impossible.

(Originally published in Sonoma Preview: January 2018 New Releases)
2003 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvee Cathleen Russian River Valley
Color: White

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Full medium yellow. Pure but initially unforthcoming on the nose; with air this revealed complex notes of pineapple, peach, nectarine, sulfides and nut oil. Then fat, sweet and highly concentrated, with a seamless texture and lush flavors of peach and pineapple. This boasts the enticing sugar/acid balance of the best Kistler bottlings. Impressively long and smooth on the back end. The Cathleen is all from Wente clones, while the Kistler Vineyard bottling includes both Wente and Mt. Eden.

Producer Commentary:
Steve Kistler was quite excited about the quality of the 2005s, which he feels may be his best wines yet. But he described the 2003s as "rich and high in extract, with excellent structure. "Alcohol levels are in the mid-14s, which is about normal for this producer today. "We started harvesting on the late side, but the harvest took place during a fairly hot period and was more compact than usual," noted Kistler, who considers the 2003s to be a medium- to long-term ager by the standards of his wines. "In 2003 we have acids about as good as we've gotten to date, except for 2005," he told me, "but acids accompanied by thoroughly ripe fruit. "Kistler showed me a couple of very strong pinots at the end of our tasting. He feels he has turned the corner on pinot in 2002 and 2003, through a combination of slightly earlier picking and cooler fermentation temperatures. Still, he noted, whereas "we made red fruit pinots six or seven years ago," (wines he described as more Burgundian in character), "our clients expect to find black fruit flavors in our wines. "
2004 Pinot Noir Occidental Station Cuvee Catherine Sonoma Coast
Color: Red

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Dark violet. Intensely aromatic nose offers powerful blackberry and plum compote aromas. Very fresh in the mouth (the pH is 3.4, Kistler says), with vibrant red and dark berry flavors and taut minerality. Dry, focused and pure on the finish, with outstanding persistence and lingering dark berry flavors. Serious pinot: a great marriage of sweet fruit and soil tones. 

Producer Commentary:
Steve Kistler believes that whole-cluster fermentation gives much more complexity to his wines and does not rack them until bottling. These nuanced, mineral-driven chardonnays do more than wink at Burgundy: they often outdo their Old World counterparts with their complex leesy character. "You're not going to find fruit-driven wines here," Kistler said. He advises drinking his chardonnays at about four to six years though he acknowledges that they can go further-"But at four to six you won't be disappointed." Kistler is very high on his 2004s, believing that they are among the strongest and liveliest sets of wine he has made to date. "They had very low pHs and the fermentations went slowly," he told me.
2016 Chardonnay Les Noisetiers
Color: White

Score: 90.0

Drinking window: 2018 - 2023

Tasting notes: The 2016 Chardonnay Les Noisetiers, Kistler's Sonoma Coast, appellation wine, is terrific. Dried pear, chamomile, lemon confit, spice and dried flowers are all finely-knit in an attractive mid-weight Chardonnay that captures all of the signatures of the Kistler house style. All of the elements meld together in a sensual, silky Chardonnay that hits all the right notes.

Producer Commentary:
My most recent visit to Kistler was quite poignant, as it was really emblematic of a new chapter in the history of this illustrious winery. To be sure, many of the recent changes have been in the works for some time. Steve Kistler has now moved on from the winery he founded in 1978 and set up shop at Occidental. Jason Kesner, Kistler's colleague for nearly a decade, has taken over the reins as part of a long-term succession plan that has been in place for many years. Kesner has been in every tasting I have done at Kistler since 2011. His relationship with Steve Kistler goes back quite further, to the days when Kesner was running Hudson Vineyards. Much less expected was the sudden passing of Mark Bixler, Steve Kistler's long-term business partner. Bixler had also been in all of my previous tastings at the winery. The last time I heard from Bixler was in October, right after the wildfires had burned his home. He seemed in good spirits. Then, a few weeks later, he was gone. Life can be so fleeting. As for the wines, 2015 looks more like a Pinot Noir year than a Chardonnay year at Kistler. The 2015 Pinots are off the charts great. Overall, the Chardonnays have good freshness, but the unnaturally compacted, hot growing season and early harvest appear to have attenuated some of the site-specific differences that are typically present in the wines. This seems especially true of the Hyde and Hudson Chardonnays. Readers will note that there is a name change on what was formerly the Kistler Vineyard Pinot Noir. In the past, there was some confusion in naming, because the Kistler Vineyard Chardonnays and Pinot Noir actually were made from different sites, the former from the Kistler Vineyard on Moon Mountain and the latter from the Kistler Vineyard in the Russian River. Going forward, there is no change for the Chardonnays, both of which are still made from the Kistler Vineyard on Moon Mountain. The Russian River Kistler Vineyard has been renamed Laguna Ridge, and is the source of a new Chardonnay as well as the Pinot that was previously named Kistler Vineyard. Ordinarily, I would have also reported on the 2016s prior to botting, but the October fires made that impossible.
2015 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast)
Color: Red

Score: 91.0

Drinking window: 2018 - 2023

Tasting notes: Kistler's 2015 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast) is lifted and gracious, with expressive floral notes and bright red berry fruit. The purity of the flavors is quite remarkable. I thought, and frankly expected, the 2015 to retain a bit more of the exuberance it showed from barrel. Today, the Sonoma Coast Pinot has developed into a wine of finesse and understatement rather than raciness. Even so, it is very pretty. 

Producer Commentary:
My most recent visit to Kistler was quite poignant, as it was really emblematic of a new chapter in the history of this illustrious winery. To be sure, many of the recent changes have been in the works for some time. Steve Kistler has now moved on from the winery he founded in 1978 and set up shop at Occidental. Jason Kesner, Kistler's colleague for nearly a decade, has taken over the reins as part of a long-term succession plan that has been in place for many years. Kesner has been in every tasting I have done at Kistler since 2011. His relationship with Steve Kistler goes back quite further, to the days when Kesner was running Hudson Vineyards. Much less expected was the sudden passing of Mark Bixler, Steve Kistler's long-term business partner. Bixler had also been in all of my previous tastings at the winery. The last time I heard from Bixler was in October, right after the wildfires had burned his home. He seemed in good spirits. Then, a few weeks later, he was gone. Life can be so fleeting. As for the wines, 2015 looks more like a Pinot Noir year than a Chardonnay year at Kistler. The 2015 Pinots are off the charts great. Overall, the Chardonnays have good freshness, but the unnaturally compacted, hot growing season and early harvest appear to have attenuated some of the site-specific differences that are typically present in the wines. This seems especially true of the Hyde and Hudson Chardonnays. Readers will note that there is a name change on what was formerly the Kistler Vineyard Pinot Noir. In the past, there was some confusion in naming, because the Kistler Vineyard Chardonnays and Pinot Noir actually were made from different sites, the former from the Kistler Vineyard on Moon Mountain and the latter from the Kistler Vineyard in the Russian River. Going forward, there is no change for the Chardonnays, both of which are still made from the Kistler Vineyard on Moon Mountain. The Russian River Kistler Vineyard has been renamed Laguna Ridge, and is the source of a new Chardonnay as well as the Pinot that was previously named Kistler Vineyard. Ordinarily, I would have also reported on the 2016s prior to botting, but the October fires made that impossible.
2005 Chardonnay Durell Vineyard Sonoma Coast
Color: White

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Green-tinged gold. Drop-dead aromas of spicy lemon, lime, green apple, iodine and white pepper offer striking clarity and energy. Deeply flavored but surprisingly lively, combining power with finesse and showing a array of citrus and exotic fruit flavors. Tangy minerality keeps things in check and adds vivacity to the long, sappy finish. Eventually leaves dusty minerals and refreshingly bitter pear skin in its wake.

Producer Commentary:
According to Steve Kistler, "2005 was just a wonderful growing season, with no heat spikes, and the fermentations were textbook, with long malos extending into the spring." He noted that he has cut back on his lees-stirring regimen "to better preserve purity." When I mentioned the depth and intensity of his pinot noirs, he told me that "with the Calera clone, it's easy to get that character," adding that he routinely brings in low yields-for example, less than a ton an acre from Occidental Station in 2005.
2013 Chardonnay Mc Crea Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 2016 - 2021

Tasting notes: Pretty and open-knit, the 2013 Chardonnay McCrea Vineyard graces the palate with a lovely sense of understatement. Rich yellow stone fruits take on light tropical and honeyed inflections in the glass. Rich, voluptuous yet quintessentially medium in body, the 2013 should drink well with minimal cellaring.

Producer Commentary:
I tasted all of Kistler's 2013s in October 2014, shortly prior to bottling. According to Steve Kistler, the 2013 harvest was two weeks earlier than it was in 2012, which is pretty typical across Sonoma. I found the 2013s to have considerable energy and tension. It will be interesting to see how that translates once the wines have settled down in bottle.
2013 Chardonnay Vine Hill Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 2016 - 2021

Tasting notes: As it often is, the 2013 Chardonnay Vine Hill Vineyard is a wine of precision and nuance. Scents of lemon peel, nuts, white flowers and herbs are deeply suggestive of a nuanced Chardonnay that delivers plenty of intensity while remaining light on its feet. This gracious, feminine Chardonnay is one of the many standouts in 2013. 

Producer Commentary:
I tasted all of Kistler's 2013s in October 2014, shortly prior to bottling. According to Steve Kistler, the 2013 harvest was two weeks earlier than it was in 2012, which is pretty typical across Sonoma. I found the 2013s to have considerable energy and tension. It will be interesting to see how that translates once the wines have settled down in bottle.
2013 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvée Cathleen
Color: White

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 2016 - 2023

Tasting notes: Interestingly, the 2013 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvée Cathleen is quite a bit more expressive than the KV, with gorgeous textural richness and fabulous balance. Here, too, the flavors remain undeveloped, but from a textural point of view, the Cuvée Cathleen is expressive, for a young wine from this site.

Producer Commentary:
I tasted all of Kistler's 2013s in October 2014, shortly prior to bottling. According to Steve Kistler, the 2013 harvest was two weeks earlier than it was in 2012, which is pretty typical across Sonoma. I found the 2013s to have considerable energy and tension. It will be interesting to see how that translates once the wines have settled down in bottle.
2009 Pinot Noir Bodega Headlands Vineyard Cuvée Elizabeth
Color: Red

Score: 96.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Both 2009 Pinots are striking. The Pinot Noir Silver Belt Vineyard Cuvée Natalie is lifted, savory and aromatic, while the Bodega Headlands Vineyard Cuvée Elizabeth is more overt and fruit-driven in style. Both wines remain quite primary, though, so readers who prefer more tertiary nuances will want to give the 2009s a few more years in the cellar. I am down to my last few bottles, and hope to have the patience to wait for the wines to enter their sweet spot.

Producer Commentary:
This wine was tasted over dinner at Bar Boulud in January of 2015.
1997 Chardonnay Mccrea Vineyard Sonoma Mountain
Color: White

Score: 92.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Slightly deeper color than the Durell. Lower-toned aromas of nuts, white chocolate, peach, apricot, strawberry and lemon, along with faint lactic and floral nuances. Comes across as richer than usual for this bottling, which is typically greener in color and more Chablis-like. Rich and deep on the palate, but supported by firm acids. Finishes smooth and quite persistent.

Producer Commentary:
In this earliest California harvest on record, says Steve Kistler, those growers who dropped crop in '97 were most successful. Even so, some of his vineyards produced yields of over three tons per acre, high for this winery, though a few still came in under two tons. Despite the fat and richness of the '97s, Kistler says they possess average to above-average acids. It's a vintage, he explains, that generally favors chardonnay and pinot from the Russian River Valley over vineyards farther to the west, while in '98 there's less difference between the two areas. This perfectionist winemaker was quite excited about the '99 crop of pinots, which he says ripened thoroughly at moderate sugar levels and retained very fresh acidity, which will enable them to age slowly. In '98, '97 and '96, says Kistler, very good wines were made, but the skins and flavors weren't completely ripe. I found the '97s to be silkier, and less phenolic, than any previous set of Kistler chardonnays.
2001 Chardonnay Camp Meeting Ridge Sonoma Coast
Color: White

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Full yellow. Flamboyantly expressive aromas of mirabelle, peach, roasted nuts and sulfides. Fat, full and impressively rich, with roasted, smoky flavors. Very opulent, slightly warm wine. Finishes very long, with a trace of alcohol. "Chardonnays with sulfidey flavors age better than high-estery, fruity aromas, which tend to fade rather quickly," noted Kistler. "When sugar fermentations finish later, more of the wine's aldehydes [compounds that can give wine an oxidative character] are consumed, and the result is more stable wines."

Producer Commentary:
Steve Kistler describes 2001 as "a wonderful vintage where the natural yeasts and malolactic bacteria behaved themselves nicely.We were able to sulfur the wines by the first of the new year," he went on. The pHs are in the 3.3 to 3.4 range, as low as in 2000. The wines are delicious now but should last well. There are no blowsy wines, and they show clear differences of vineyard character. I'd suggest drinking them beginning in 2006."Kistler went on to note that his chardonnays have a lower percentage of solids in them than in the past. He's also keeping the musts a bit warmer for the first 48 hours, and he believes that this has helped the yeasts work better. Once again, Kistler showed me only a single 2001 pinot noir, albeit his most important bottling in terms of cases produced.
2006 Pinot Noir Occidental Station Cuvee Catherine Sonoma Coast
Color: Red

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Vivid red. Strikingly vibrant aromas of red berries, blood orange, flowers and minerals reminded me of a suave Chambolle-Musigny. Fleshy, succulent strawberry and raspberry preserve flavors are enlivened by zesty minerality and given depth by a slow-building cola quality. Becomes more tangy as well as more powerful on the finish, which leaves fresh redcurrant and raspberry notes behind. This absolutely refused to let go of my palate. One of the most memorable wines of my North Coast tastings this year, and I tried a lot.

Producer Commentary:
Steve Kistler works exclusively with traditional California clones for both chardonnay (such as Wente, Hyde and Mount Eden) and pinot noir (Pommard, Swan, Calera) because he believes that the Dijon clones planted in the warmer areas of the North Coast "give fruit opulence but at the expense of the minerality we like." Halfway through this year's tasting it struck me that one would be hard-pressed to find a set of more mineral-driven chardonnays anywhere today, even from Burgundy. Kistler attributes this characteristic to the aforementioned heirloom clones as well as to the fact that he works "in cool, stony vineyards that are moderated by wind and fog and have the right exposures." He told me that in 2006 all of his pinot noir was picked at, or under, 24o Brix, which means less than 13.5% potential alcohol.
1998 Chardonnay Mccrea Vineyard Sonoma Mountain
Color: White

Score: 92.5

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Butterscotch, Indian spices and an exotic hint of mango on the nose. Fat and voluminous; quite full and rich but rather monolithic today despite its obvious intensity. Slow-building, mouthstaining finish features strong soil tones of minerals and lime skin. This really needs a couple years of patience to assume its adult form.

Producer Commentary:
2008 Chardonnay Durell Vineyard Sonoma Coast
Color: White

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Bright gold. A hugely aromatic bouquet evokes fresh melon, orange and pit fruits, with complicating notes of intense iodine and spices. Deeply pitched orchard fruit flavors show a strong smoky character, with juicy acidity providing shape. The iodine note repeats on the long, sappy, chewy finish, which leaves notes of pear skin and orange zest behind. I really like the interplay of richness and vibrancy here. This was made from all Wente clones.

Producer Commentary:
Steve Kistler and his assistant winemaker Jason Kesner described 2008 as "a vintage where there's very good concentration to the chardonnays but not too much." Kistler told me that his aim was "to get the wines to ferment to truly dry and to never use sugar. Sugar simplifies the fruit," he added, "and if you're trying to get real complexity, much less minerality and finesse, that's going to be very hard to achieve with added sugar." Speaking of finesse, I asked Kistler about the greater precision of his pinot noirs in recent vintages. He told me "it's all part of the fine-tuning to get to where we have expression but not too much weight." He explained that he had shortened the cold soaks of his pinot, "which seems to add lift to their aromas and has increased floral and spice character." Also recommended:
2009 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 96.0

Drinking window: 2013 - 2019

Tasting notes: The 2009 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard is one of the most complete wines in this lineup. It boasts extraordinary class and elegance from start to finish. All of the elements are in the right place in this multi-dimensional, textured Chardonnay. Pineapple, mango, spices, white flowers and crème brulée are some of the many nuances that inform the understated, polished finish. This striking wine is all about nuance and transparency. 

Producer Commentary:
I was blown away by these wines from Steve Kistler, his partner Mark Bixler and winemaker Jason Kesner. Over the last few years Kistler has refined his approach, as he wasn't totally satisfied by the way some of his earlier wines had developed in bottle. Today Kistler is picking his Chardonnays at lower Brix levels, using less French oak (with no stirring of the lees) and keeping the wines in barrel for a shorter amount of time, all in an effort to preserve as much freshness as possible. The result is wines that are totally different in style from years past. The Pinots see a maximum 50% new oak barrels and that number will continue to trend downwards over the next few years. The 2009 harvest started around September 4th for both Chardonnay and Pinot. The 2009s were bottled in December 2010. Unfortunately, I was not able to taste the 2010s, as they had been bottled just prior to my visit. I will taste those wines in October, 2012. A frequent source of frustration among readers has been the lack of in-the-bottle reviews for Kistler wines. Beginning this year, all wines tasted from barrel will be subsequently reviewed from bottle as well. Readers who haven't tasted the Kistler wines in some time owe it to themselves to do so. These are some of the most thrilling wines being made in California today.
1997 Chardonnay Vine Hill Vineyard Russian River Valley
Color: White

Score: 92.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Slightly hazy color. Complex, soil-inflected aromas of roasted grain, iodine, peat, pear skin and spring flowers. Very rich and concentrated; dense and deep but spicy and focused. This has a supple, airy texture I associate with the best ripe-year white Burgundies. Quite concentrated and tactile. Finishes with palate-staining length.

Producer Commentary:
In this earliest California harvest on record, says Steve Kistler, those growers who dropped crop in '97 were most successful. Even so, some of his vineyards produced yields of over three tons per acre, high for this winery, though a few still came in under two tons. Despite the fat and richness of the '97s, Kistler says they possess average to above-average acids. It's a vintage, he explains, that generally favors chardonnay and pinot from the Russian River Valley over vineyards farther to the west, while in '98 there's less difference between the two areas. This perfectionist winemaker was quite excited about the '99 crop of pinots, which he says ripened thoroughly at moderate sugar levels and retained very fresh acidity, which will enable them to age slowly. In '98, '97 and '96, says Kistler, very good wines were made, but the skins and flavors weren't completely ripe. I found the '97s to be silkier, and less phenolic, than any previous set of Kistler chardonnays.
1999 Chardonnay Durell Vineyard Sonoma Coast
Color: White

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Pale yellow color. Sulfidey aromas of dried fruits and minerals. Very ripe, dense and chewy; a wine of terrific richness and sweetness of fruit, nicely framed by firm underlying minerality. Very long on the aftertaste.

Producer Commentary:
Steve Kistler, who told me that he advises his mailing-list customers to enjoy his chardonnays from most vintages within four to six years (in part because there's less free sulfur in his wines today), believes that 1999 has produced wines with longer aging potential. "In '96, '97 and '98 we had to pick late, at high sugars, to get thoroughly ripe flavors. But the '99 fruit ripened at lower sugar levels, and we benefitted from a long harvest. We got the best acids and pHs since 1995." Kistler is generally using less new oak these days: still up to 100% for the Hudson and Hyde wines but as little as 50% to 60% for the rest. And although Kistler believes that a certain amount of grape solids is needed in order for the native yeasts to function well, he has somewhat reduced the percentage of solids in recent years, to around 0.75%. Despite the fact that this winery now produces around 22,000 cases of chardonnay each year, Kistler is strictly hands-on when it comes to pressing the fruit, refusing to delegate this time-consuming but critical task to assistants. "And we're getting better at pressing cooler grapes," Kistler notes. The result of all these small improvements is that today's Kistler chardonnays are silkier and suaver than ever before, and are more likely to avoid the slight phenolic harshness that some wines have shown in past vintage.
2003 Chardonnay Vine Hill Vineyard Russian River Valley
Color: White

Score: 93.5

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Medium yellow-green. Complex nose melds lime, pineapple, crushed stone and menthol. Smooth, fresh and fruity, with a captivating sugar/acid balance and terrific snap. Very young and densely packed chardonnay, with complex notes of apricot, citrus zest and nut oil. Offers terrific life in the mouth. This has the structure of a top white Burgundy. Like the Hudson bottling, this wine may ultimately merit an even higher score. "Both Hyde and Hudson are a little less dramatic in their youth in 2003 than in 2002, which is a good thing," notes Kistler.

Producer Commentary:
Steve Kistler was quite excited about the quality of the 2005s, which he feels may be his best wines yet. But he described the 2003s as "rich and high in extract, with excellent structure. "Alcohol levels are in the mid-14s, which is about normal for this producer today. "We started harvesting on the late side, but the harvest took place during a fairly hot period and was more compact than usual," noted Kistler, who considers the 2003s to be a medium- to long-term ager by the standards of his wines. "In 2003 we have acids about as good as we've gotten to date, except for 2005," he told me, "but acids accompanied by thoroughly ripe fruit. "Kistler showed me a couple of very strong pinots at the end of our tasting. He feels he has turned the corner on pinot in 2002 and 2003, through a combination of slightly earlier picking and cooler fermentation temperatures. Still, he noted, whereas "we made red fruit pinots six or seven years ago," (wines he described as more Burgundian in character), "our clients expect to find black fruit flavors in our wines. "
2009 Chardonnay Trenton Roadhouse
Color: White

Score: 96.0

Drinking window: 2013 - 2019

Tasting notes: The 2009 Chardonnay Trenton Road House is one of the more intense wines in the lineup. The Trenton Road House is all about textural power and depth. It will appeal most to readers who enjoy the richer style of California Chardonnay. Layers of fruit built to an explosive finish that won't be denied, yet the wine turns intensely mineral, pointed and multi-dimensional with time in the glass. This is another great showing. 

Producer Commentary:
I was blown away by these wines from Steve Kistler, his partner Mark Bixler and winemaker Jason Kesner. Over the last few years Kistler has refined his approach, as he wasn't totally satisfied by the way some of his earlier wines had developed in bottle. Today Kistler is picking his Chardonnays at lower Brix levels, using less French oak (with no stirring of the lees) and keeping the wines in barrel for a shorter amount of time, all in an effort to preserve as much freshness as possible. The result is wines that are totally different in style from years past. The Pinots see a maximum 50% new oak barrels and that number will continue to trend downwards over the next few years. The 2009 harvest started around September 4th for both Chardonnay and Pinot. The 2009s were bottled in December 2010. Unfortunately, I was not able to taste the 2010s, as they had been bottled just prior to my visit. I will taste those wines in October, 2012. A frequent source of frustration among readers has been the lack of in-the-bottle reviews for Kistler wines. Beginning this year, all wines tasted from barrel will be subsequently reviewed from bottle as well. Readers who haven't tasted the Kistler wines in some time owe it to themselves to do so. These are some of the most thrilling wines being made in California today.
2013 Chardonnay Dutton Ranch
Color: White

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 2016 - 2021

Tasting notes: The 2013 Chardonnay Dutton Ranch is all about texture and mid-palate pliancy. Apricot, orange peel, spices, mint and hazelnuts are some of the many aromas and flavors that blossom. Powerful and deeply expressive from the outset, the 2013 hits all the right notes. Knockout aromatics on the finish are incredibly inviting. 

Producer Commentary:
I tasted all of Kistler's 2013s in October 2014, shortly prior to bottling. According to Steve Kistler, the 2013 harvest was two weeks earlier than it was in 2012, which is pretty typical across Sonoma. I found the 2013s to have considerable energy and tension. It will be interesting to see how that translates once the wines have settled down in bottle.
1998 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard Carneros
Color: White

Score: 95.5

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Perfumed, multidimensional nose combines orange oil, pear, baked apple, iodine, cinnamon and nutmeg. Suave, silky and dense in the mouth, with tactile, extremely intense, soil-inflected flavors of orange, pear, ginger and powdered stone. Initially quite mineral, but showed more explosive fruit as it opened in the glass. Perfectly integrated acids give the flavors great thrust and grip. A knockout.

Producer Commentary:
2011 Chardonnay Stone Flat Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 2014 - 2021

Tasting notes: The 2011 Chardonnay Stone Flat Vineyard emerges from a parcel adjacent to Durell. A wine of notable cut, the 2011 impresses for its energy and focus. There is plenty of richness in the glass, but those elements are nicely balanced by the wine's sense of tension. Bright lemon, white flowers and crushed rocks frame the intense, saline finish. Overall, the Stone Flat is one of the more powerful Chardonnays in this range.

Producer Commentary:
This is a brilliant set of wines from Steve Kistler and his longtime business partner Mark Bixler. According to Kistler, the cool 2011 vintage had little effect on the Chardonnays, all of which were picked at their levels of ripeness, which as I have written previously, are lower than was the norm up until a few years ago. Sugars were harder to come by in the Pinot Noirs, all of which have lower pHs and a little less ripeness than is typically the case. That may be why the 2011 Pinots were so slow to reveal themselves. All of the 2011s were made with native fermentations and were racked only in preparation for bottling, which was done without fining or filtration. The wines were aged in 50% new oak barrels, mostly from Francois Freres. Readers may be aware that Kistler has been partly owned by an investor group for the last six years. Steve Kistler remains CEO and in charge of day to day operations, but has also begun a new Pinot Noir project, Occidental, which is reviewed separately. Going forward, two of the flagship Kistler Pinots, the Cuvèe Catherine and Cuvèe Elizabeth, will be sold under the Occidental label, so Kistler fans will want to consult those reviews for more information on the wines and the project as a whole. Needless to say, it will be interesting to see what Steve Kistler comes up with in the next phase of what has been a brilliant career.
2011 Chardonnay Durell Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 2014 - 2019

Tasting notes: Bright lemon, tangerine, white flowers and orange peel jump from the glass in the 2011 Chardonnay Durell Vineyard. An open, beautifully resonant wine, the 2011 is firing on all cylinders today. I especially like the suppleness here. 

Producer Commentary:
This is a brilliant set of wines from Steve Kistler and his longtime business partner Mark Bixler. According to Kistler, the cool 2011 vintage had little effect on the Chardonnays, all of which were picked at their levels of ripeness, which as I have written previously, are lower than was the norm up until a few years ago. Sugars were harder to come by in the Pinot Noirs, all of which have lower pHs and a little less ripeness than is typically the case. That may be why the 2011 Pinots were so slow to reveal themselves. All of the 2011s were made with native fermentations and were racked only in preparation for bottling, which was done without fining or filtration. The wines were aged in 50% new oak barrels, mostly from Francois Freres. Readers may be aware that Kistler has been partly owned by an investor group for the last six years. Steve Kistler remains CEO and in charge of day to day operations, but has also begun a new Pinot Noir project, Occidental, which is reviewed separately. Going forward, two of the flagship Kistler Pinots, the Cuvèe Catherine and Cuvèe Elizabeth, will be sold under the Occidental label, so Kistler fans will want to consult those reviews for more information on the wines and the project as a whole. Needless to say, it will be interesting to see what Steve Kistler comes up with in the next phase of what has been a brilliant career.
2011 Pinot Noir Kistler Vineyard
Color: Red

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 2014 - 2021

Tasting notes: The 2011 Pinot Noir Kistler Vineyard is floral, lifted and absolutely impeccable. Freshly cut roses, sweet red berries and mint meld together in a supple, gracious Pinot with tons of appeal and pure nuance. Subtle hints of earthiness and game add complexity, but it is the wine's fruit that shines most brightly in this perfumed, beautifully expressive Pinot Noir. This parcel is mostly Calera clone Pinot.

Producer Commentary:
This is a brilliant set of wines from Steve Kistler and his longtime business partner Mark Bixler. According to Kistler, the cool 2011 vintage had little effect on the Chardonnays, all of which were picked at their levels of ripeness, which as I have written previously, are lower than was the norm up until a few years ago. Sugars were harder to come by in the Pinot Noirs, all of which have lower pHs and a little less ripeness than is typically the case. That may be why the 2011 Pinots were so slow to reveal themselves. All of the 2011s were made with native fermentations and were racked only in preparation for bottling, which was done without fining or filtration. The wines were aged in 50% new oak barrels, mostly from Francois Freres. Readers may be aware that Kistler has been partly owned by an investor group for the last six years. Steve Kistler remains CEO and in charge of day to day operations, but has also begun a new Pinot Noir project, Occidental, which is reviewed separately. Going forward, two of the flagship Kistler Pinots, the Cuvèe Catherine and Cuvèe Elizabeth, will be sold under the Occidental label, so Kistler fans will want to consult those reviews for more information on the wines and the project as a whole. Needless to say, it will be interesting to see what Steve Kistler comes up with in the next phase of what has been a brilliant career.
1987 Cabernet Sauvignon Kistler Estate Vineyard Sonoma
Color: Red

Score: 78.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Ruby-red. Rather chemical nose hints at flowers, pine nuts and damp leaves. Has some size and texture but is very herbaceous and green. Drying back end.

Producer Commentary:
2012 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 2015 - 2022

Tasting notes: Kistler's 2012 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard is striking in its beauty. Today, the Hyde is one of the least expressive of the wines in the range, although it has more than enough intensity to fill out its broad shoulders nicely. Crushed rocks and white flowers are some of the notes that inform the intense, palate staining finish. The 2012 boasts fabulous balance and tons of class.

Producer Commentary:
This is a brilliant set of wines from Steve Kistler and his longtime business partner Mark Bixler. According to Kistler, the cool 2011 vintage had little effect on the Chardonnays, all of which were picked at their levels of ripeness, which as I have written previously, are lower than was the norm up until a few years ago. Sugars were harder to come by in the Pinot Noirs, all of which have lower pHs and a little less ripeness than is typically the case. That may be why the 2011 Pinots were so slow to reveal themselves. All of the 2011s were made with native fermentations and were racked only in preparation for bottling, which was done without fining or filtration. The wines were aged in 50% new oak barrels, mostly from François Frères. I also tasted the 2012s from tank, just prior to bottling. Today, the wines show terrific balance and tons of potential. I can hardly wait to taste the wines once they are in bottle. Readers may be aware that Kistler has been partly owned by an investor group for the last six years. Steve Kistler remains CEO and in charge of day to day operations, but has also begun a new Pinot Noir project, Occidental, which is reviewed separately. Going forward, two of the flagship Kistler Pinots, the Cuvée Catherine and Cuvée Elizabeth, will be sold under the Occidental label, so Kistler fans will want to consult those reviews for more information on the wines and the project as a whole. Needless to say, it will be interesting to see what Steve Kistler comes up with in the next phase of what has been a brilliant career.
2003 Chardonnay Dutton Ranch Russian River Valley
Color: White

Score: 92.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Medium yellow. Warm, smoky, soil-inflected nose hints at nut oils, peach and apricot. Voluptuous, fine-grained and seamless, with sweet, lush flavors of nectarine and nut oils. Not yet hugely complex but shows lovely restraint to its sweetness.

Producer Commentary:
Steve Kistler was quite excited about the quality of the 2005s, which he feels may be his best wines yet. But he described the 2003s as "rich and high in extract, with excellent structure. "Alcohol levels are in the mid-14s, which is about normal for this producer today. "We started harvesting on the late side, but the harvest took place during a fairly hot period and was more compact than usual," noted Kistler, who considers the 2003s to be a medium- to long-term ager by the standards of his wines. "In 2003 we have acids about as good as we've gotten to date, except for 2005," he told me, "but acids accompanied by thoroughly ripe fruit. "Kistler showed me a couple of very strong pinots at the end of our tasting. He feels he has turned the corner on pinot in 2002 and 2003, through a combination of slightly earlier picking and cooler fermentation temperatures. Still, he noted, whereas "we made red fruit pinots six or seven years ago," (wines he described as more Burgundian in character), "our clients expect to find black fruit flavors in our wines. "
2003 Chardonnay Kistler Estate Vineyard Sonoma Valley
Color: White

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Medium yellow with green highlights. Subtle aromas of peach blossom, lemon cream and vanilla. Big, sweet, layered and rich; chewy but not at all heavy. Very highly concentrated wine with ripe, pure fruit flavors of citrus and stone fruits. Wonderfully ripe and fruit-driven without being exotic. Very long and rich on the back.

Producer Commentary:
Steve Kistler was quite excited about the quality of the 2005s, which he feels may be his best wines yet. But he described the 2003s as "rich and high in extract, with excellent structure. "Alcohol levels are in the mid-14s, which is about normal for this producer today. "We started harvesting on the late side, but the harvest took place during a fairly hot period and was more compact than usual," noted Kistler, who considers the 2003s to be a medium- to long-term ager by the standards of his wines. "In 2003 we have acids about as good as we've gotten to date, except for 2005," he told me, "but acids accompanied by thoroughly ripe fruit. "Kistler showed me a couple of very strong pinots at the end of our tasting. He feels he has turned the corner on pinot in 2002 and 2003, through a combination of slightly earlier picking and cooler fermentation temperatures. Still, he noted, whereas "we made red fruit pinots six or seven years ago," (wines he described as more Burgundian in character), "our clients expect to find black fruit flavors in our wines. "
1998 Pinot Noir Camp Meeting Ridge Sonoma Coast
Color: Red

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Full ruby-red. Wild aromas of black cherry, strawberry, bitter chocolate and smoked meat, along with a strong oak component. Rich, lush and highly concentrated; creamy and expansive. Fills the mouth with sweet flavors of strawberry, mocha and sugar-cured tobacco. Finishes with lush, thoroughly ripe tannins and excellent persistence.

Producer Commentary:
1995 Chardonnay Dutton Ranch Russian River Valley
Color: White

Score: 88.5

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Smoky nose is slightly dulled by SO2 A bit bony in the mouth, with rather tart acidity currently dominating the fruit. This filled in nicely with aeration, but I still don't get the sweetness or delineation I normally find in this wine.

Producer Commentary:
1997 Chardonnay Camp Meeting Ridge Sonoma Coast
Color: White

Score: 92.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Yellow-gold color, rather deep for this bottling. Deep, ripe aromas of tropical fruits and lemon cream complicated by an intriguing smoky/flinty aspect. Thick, sweet and mouthfilling; bright acids frame the tropical fruit and clove flavors. Quite chewy and buttery in the mouth. Perhaps the longest of these '97s to this point, but best suited for drinking over the next three or four years. Drink this chardonnay over the next four or five years.

Producer Commentary:
In this earliest California harvest on record, says Steve Kistler, those growers who dropped crop in '97 were most successful. Even so, some of his vineyards produced yields of over three tons per acre, high for this winery, though a few still came in under two tons. Despite the fat and richness of the '97s, Kistler says they possess average to above-average acids. It's a vintage, he explains, that generally favors chardonnay and pinot from the Russian River Valley over vineyards farther to the west, while in '98 there's less difference between the two areas. This perfectionist winemaker was quite excited about the '99 crop of pinots, which he says ripened thoroughly at moderate sugar levels and retained very fresh acidity, which will enable them to age slowly. In '98, '97 and '96, says Kistler, very good wines were made, but the skins and flavors weren't completely ripe. I found the '97s to be silkier, and less phenolic, than any previous set of Kistler chardonnays.
2012 Chardonnay Dutton Ranch
Color: White

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 2015 - 2022

Tasting notes: Kistler's 2012 Chardonnay Dutton Ranch is gorgeous. It brings together all of the rich, textured signatures of this site, all supported by vibrant acidity. Hints of almond, hazelnut and lemon add nuance on the close. The 2012 possesses lovely body and depth, but at the same time it is also beautifully perfumed. The finish alone is striking.

Producer Commentary:
This is a brilliant set of wines from Steve Kistler and his longtime business partner Mark Bixler. According to Kistler, the cool 2011 vintage had little effect on the Chardonnays, all of which were picked at their levels of ripeness, which as I have written previously, are lower than was the norm up until a few years ago. Sugars were harder to come by in the Pinot Noirs, all of which have lower pHs and a little less ripeness than is typically the case. That may be why the 2011 Pinots were so slow to reveal themselves. All of the 2011s were made with native fermentations and were racked only in preparation for bottling, which was done without fining or filtration. The wines were aged in 50% new oak barrels, mostly from François Frères. I also tasted the 2012s from tank, just prior to bottling. Today, the wines show terrific balance and tons of potential. I can hardly wait to taste the wines once they are in bottle. Readers may be aware that Kistler has been partly owned by an investor group for the last six years. Steve Kistler remains CEO and in charge of day to day operations, but has also begun a new Pinot Noir project, Occidental, which is reviewed separately. Going forward, two of the flagship Kistler Pinots, the Cuvée Catherine and Cuvée Elizabeth, will be sold under the Occidental label, so Kistler fans will want to consult those reviews for more information on the wines and the project as a whole. Needless to say, it will be interesting to see what Steve Kistler comes up with in the next phase of what has been a brilliant career.
2012 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 96.0

Drinking window: 2015 - 2022

Tasting notes: The 2012 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard is seriously intense, but also understated. Floral aromatics meld into green pear, lemon oil, slate, ash, graphite and white stone fruits. An intensely mineral and floral wine, the 2012, boasts superb balance, not to mention terrific overall harmony. These vines sit at 1,400 feet of elevation with a 30% degree slope. The vines, Mt. Eden clone Chardonnay, are planted on St. George rootstock and dry-farmed. The sensation on Kistler Vineyard is often of wines that are ethereal yet textured. The 2012 is all that, and more.

Producer Commentary:
This is a brilliant set of wines from Steve Kistler and his longtime business partner Mark Bixler. According to Kistler, the cool 2011 vintage had little effect on the Chardonnays, all of which were picked at their levels of ripeness, which as I have written previously, are lower than was the norm up until a few years ago. Sugars were harder to come by in the Pinot Noirs, all of which have lower pHs and a little less ripeness than is typically the case. That may be why the 2011 Pinots were so slow to reveal themselves. All of the 2011s were made with native fermentations and were racked only in preparation for bottling, which was done without fining or filtration. The wines were aged in 50% new oak barrels, mostly from François Frères. I also tasted the 2012s from tank, just prior to bottling. Today, the wines show terrific balance and tons of potential. I can hardly wait to taste the wines once they are in bottle. Readers may be aware that Kistler has been partly owned by an investor group for the last six years. Steve Kistler remains CEO and in charge of day to day operations, but has also begun a new Pinot Noir project, Occidental, which is reviewed separately. Going forward, two of the flagship Kistler Pinots, the Cuvée Catherine and Cuvée Elizabeth, will be sold under the Occidental label, so Kistler fans will want to consult those reviews for more information on the wines and the project as a whole. Needless to say, it will be interesting to see what Steve Kistler comes up with in the next phase of what has been a brilliant career.
2002 Chardonnay Kistler Estate Vineyard Sonoma Valley
Color: White

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Medium yellow. Superripe, musky aromas of orange oil, ginger, charred oak and light sulfides. Sweet and full in the mouth, but with a penetrating quality to the pineapple and spice flavors. This, too, is very light on its feet. Finishes elegant, juicy and long, with an enticing mineral edge to its flavors.

Producer Commentary:
I tasted the Kistler 2002s in early March with Steve Kistler's business partner Mark Bixler, who told me that the 2002 harvest lasted from September 5 through 24, with much of the fruit being picked at the beginning of that period."There were not big regional differences in quality in 2002," Bixler reported.This year I was able to taste two pinot noir offerings, and the Cuvee Catherine was among the best Kistler pinots I've tasted to date.Bixler noted that 70% of Kistler's wine now comes from their own vineyards, and that grapes Kistler purchases are bought by the acre, rather than by the ton.
1998 Chardonnay Durell Vineyard Sonoma Coast
Color: White

Score: 92.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Pale greeny-gold color. Musky aromas of minerals, ginger and earth; suggestions of Burgundian funk. Very rich and chewy, with dusty flavors of orange peel and earth. Full, generous and impressively deep. The impression of powdered stone gives the finish a tactile quality.

Producer Commentary:
1999 Pinot Noir Kistler Vineyard Sonoma Coast
Color: Red

Score: 92.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Bright deep red-ruby color. Sappy, precise aromas of raspberry, black cherry, licorice and spices. Then superripe in the mouth, with roasted yet fresh flavors of raspberry and strawberry. Rather elegantly styled pinot, finishing with firm tannins and subtle, lingering red fruit flavors.

Producer Commentary:
Steve Kistler, who told me that he advises his mailing-list customers to enjoy his chardonnays from most vintages within four to six years (in part because there's less free sulfur in his wines today), believes that 1999 has produced wines with longer aging potential. "In '96, '97 and '98 we had to pick late, at high sugars, to get thoroughly ripe flavors. But the '99 fruit ripened at lower sugar levels, and we benefitted from a long harvest. We got the best acids and pHs since 1995." Kistler is generally using less new oak these days: still up to 100% for the Hudson and Hyde wines but as little as 50% to 60% for the rest. And although Kistler believes that a certain amount of grape solids is needed in order for the native yeasts to function well, he has somewhat reduced the percentage of solids in recent years, to around 0.75%. Despite the fact that this winery now produces around 22,000 cases of chardonnay each year, Kistler is strictly hands-on when it comes to pressing the fruit, refusing to delegate this time-consuming but critical task to assistants. "And we're getting better at pressing cooler grapes," Kistler notes. The result of all these small improvements is that today's Kistler chardonnays are silkier and suaver than ever before, and are more likely to avoid the slight phenolic harshness that some wines have shown in past vintage.
2010 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvee Cathleen
Color: White

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 2014 - 2020

Tasting notes: The 2010 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvee Cathleen emerges from a single block within the Kistler Vineyard. Here the flavors are bright, nuanced and highly articulated, in start contrast with the Kistler Vineyard. Today, the Cuvee Cathleen gives the impression of being almost weightless on the palate. Crushed rocks and a host of saline notes underpin the gorgeous finish. My sense is that the 2010 will blossom even more with additional time in bottle. 

Producer Commentary:
It is always a pleasure to visit with Steve Kistler and his partner Mark Bixler. The 2011s and 2010s are excellent across the board, although today, I have a preference for the 2011s. Vintage 2011 is shaping up beautifully, for both the Chardonnays and Pinots. As was the case throughout the region, the season was cool and slow to develop. The 2011s were picked at lower sugars than is the norm here, but very much in keeping with the personality of the year. Steve Kistler commented that a poor set in 2011 resulted in the lowest crop loads here in years. Like a lot of his colleagues, Kistler noted that the experiences of 2010 had a huge positive impact in how he responded to similar challenges in 2011. The 2010 Chardonnays are beautiful across the board. Although solid, the 2010 Pinots aren't quite at the level of the superb 2009s and I expect, ultimately, the 2011s. It was a tough vintage for the Pinots. Yields were mercilessly low. Sadly, there is no Cuvee Elizabeth, as the little fruit that came in went into the Kistler Vineyard bottling.
2012 Pinot Noir Kistler Vineyard
Color: Red

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 2015 - 2022

Tasting notes: The 2012 Pinot Noir Kistler Vineyard is a model of understatement and class. Sweet red berries, mint, rose petals and licorice all waft from the glass in a subtle, impeccably perfumed wine laced with tons of class. Silky tannins support the gracious, perfumed finish. The flavors are wonderfully alive and pulsating in this striking Pinot Noir from Steve Kistler.

Producer Commentary:
This is a brilliant set of wines from Steve Kistler and his longtime business partner Mark Bixler. According to Kistler, the cool 2011 vintage had little effect on the Chardonnays, all of which were picked at their levels of ripeness, which as I have written previously, are lower than was the norm up until a few years ago. Sugars were harder to come by in the Pinot Noirs, all of which have lower pHs and a little less ripeness than is typically the case. That may be why the 2011 Pinots were so slow to reveal themselves. All of the 2011s were made with native fermentations and were racked only in preparation for bottling, which was done without fining or filtration. The wines were aged in 50% new oak barrels, mostly from François Frères. I also tasted the 2012s from tank, just prior to bottling. Today, the wines show terrific balance and tons of potential. I can hardly wait to taste the wines once they are in bottle. Readers may be aware that Kistler has been partly owned by an investor group for the last six years. Steve Kistler remains CEO and in charge of day to day operations, but has also begun a new Pinot Noir project, Occidental, which is reviewed separately. Going forward, two of the flagship Kistler Pinots, the Cuvée Catherine and Cuvée Elizabeth, will be sold under the Occidental label, so Kistler fans will want to consult those reviews for more information on the wines and the project as a whole. Needless to say, it will be interesting to see what Steve Kistler comes up with in the next phase of what has been a brilliant career.
2009 Pinot Noir Kistler Vineyard
Color: Red

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 2013 - 2021

Tasting notes: The 2009 Pinot Noir Kistler Vineyard bursts from the glass with an exotic array of sweet red fruit, flowers, licorice and spices. It is a dazzling, totally beguiling wine that impresses for its sheer grace and classiness. A subtle yet precise saline-infused finish leaves a lasting impression. This is the most approachable and complete of the 2009 Kistler Pinos today. 

Producer Commentary:
I was blown away by these wines from Steve Kistler, his partner Mark Bixler and winemaker Jason Kesner. Over the last few years Kistler has refined his approach, as he wasn't totally satisfied by the way some of his earlier wines had developed in bottle. Today Kistler is picking his Chardonnays at lower Brix levels, using less French oak (with no stirring of the lees) and keeping the wines in barrel for a shorter amount of time, all in an effort to preserve as much freshness as possible. The result is wines that are totally different in style from years past. The Pinots see a maximum 50% new oak barrels and that number will continue to trend downwards over the next few years. The 2009 harvest started around September 4th for both Chardonnay and Pinot. The 2009s were bottled in December 2010. Unfortunately, I was not able to taste the 2010s, as they had been bottled just prior to my visit. I will taste those wines in October, 2012. A frequent source of frustration among readers has been the lack of in-the-bottle reviews for Kistler wines. Beginning this year, all wines tasted from barrel will be subsequently reviewed from bottle as well. Readers who haven't tasted the Kistler wines in some time owe it to themselves to do so. These are some of the most thrilling wines being made in California today.
2009 Chardonnay Durell Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 2013 - 2019

Tasting notes: The 2009 Chardonnay Durrell Ranch shows the more tropical, lush side of Chardonnay. There is plenty of underlying minerality to provide support. Layers of fruit build towards the effortless, gracious finish. The Durell can be enjoyed today or cellared for a handful of years. Here, too, the balance of fruit, acidity and structure is compelling. 

Producer Commentary:
I was blown away by these wines from Steve Kistler, his partner Mark Bixler and winemaker Jason Kesner. Over the last few years Kistler has refined his approach, as he wasn't totally satisfied by the way some of his earlier wines had developed in bottle. Today Kistler is picking his Chardonnays at lower Brix levels, using less French oak (with no stirring of the lees) and keeping the wines in barrel for a shorter amount of time, all in an effort to preserve as much freshness as possible. The result is wines that are totally different in style from years past. The Pinots see a maximum 50% new oak barrels and that number will continue to trend downwards over the next few years. The 2009 harvest started around September 4th for both Chardonnay and Pinot. The 2009s were bottled in December 2010. Unfortunately, I was not able to taste the 2010s, as they had been bottled just prior to my visit. I will taste those wines in October, 2012. A frequent source of frustration among readers has been the lack of in-the-bottle reviews for Kistler wines. Beginning this year, all wines tasted from barrel will be subsequently reviewed from bottle as well. Readers who haven't tasted the Kistler wines in some time owe it to themselves to do so. These are some of the most thrilling wines being made in California today.
1999 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvee Cathleen Russian River Valley
Color: White

Score: 94.5

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: (mostly from Kistler Vineyard fruit) Pale yellow-gold. Reserved but highly complex aromas of peach, soft citrus fruits, pineapple, coconut, nutmeg and vanilla. Thick and fat but backward and impressively structured for this cuvee, owing to its underlying acidity and mineral spine. Shows a lemony austerity today. Finishes with sneaky length and terrific grip.

Producer Commentary:
Steve Kistler, who told me that he advises his mailing-list customers to enjoy his chardonnays from most vintages within four to six years (in part because there's less free sulfur in his wines today), believes that 1999 has produced wines with longer aging potential. "In '96, '97 and '98 we had to pick late, at high sugars, to get thoroughly ripe flavors. But the '99 fruit ripened at lower sugar levels, and we benefitted from a long harvest. We got the best acids and pHs since 1995." Kistler is generally using less new oak these days: still up to 100% for the Hudson and Hyde wines but as little as 50% to 60% for the rest. And although Kistler believes that a certain amount of grape solids is needed in order for the native yeasts to function well, he has somewhat reduced the percentage of solids in recent years, to around 0.75%. Despite the fact that this winery now produces around 22,000 cases of chardonnay each year, Kistler is strictly hands-on when it comes to pressing the fruit, refusing to delegate this time-consuming but critical task to assistants. "And we're getting better at pressing cooler grapes," Kistler notes. The result of all these small improvements is that today's Kistler chardonnays are silkier and suaver than ever before, and are more likely to avoid the slight phenolic harshness that some wines have shown in past vintage.
2009 Chardonnay Dutton Ranch
Color: White

Score: 96.0

Drinking window: 2013 - 2019

Tasting notes: The 2009 Chardonnay Dutton Ranch fleshes out beautifully on the mid-palate with layers of expressive, radiant fruit. The wine finds its minerality and center on the mid-palate Apricots, pears, flowers and subtle, darker hints of earthiness come to life on the finish. This is a very complete, beguiling Chardonnay loaded with complexity and sheer class. 

Producer Commentary:
I was blown away by these wines from Steve Kistler, his partner Mark Bixler and winemaker Jason Kesner. Over the last few years Kistler has refined his approach, as he wasn't totally satisfied by the way some of his earlier wines had developed in bottle. Today Kistler is picking his Chardonnays at lower Brix levels, using less French oak (with no stirring of the lees) and keeping the wines in barrel for a shorter amount of time, all in an effort to preserve as much freshness as possible. The result is wines that are totally different in style from years past. The Pinots see a maximum 50% new oak barrels and that number will continue to trend downwards over the next few years. The 2009 harvest started around September 4th for both Chardonnay and Pinot. The 2009s were bottled in December 2010. Unfortunately, I was not able to taste the 2010s, as they had been bottled just prior to my visit. I will taste those wines in October, 2012. A frequent source of frustration among readers has been the lack of in-the-bottle reviews for Kistler wines. Beginning this year, all wines tasted from barrel will be subsequently reviewed from bottle as well. Readers who haven't tasted the Kistler wines in some time owe it to themselves to do so. These are some of the most thrilling wines being made in California today.
2009 Chardonnay Mccrea Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 2013 - 2019

Tasting notes: The 2009 Chardonnay McCrea Vineyard is impeccable from start to finish. Fresh pastry crust, lemon, spices and vanilla are some of the many nuances that flow from this subtle, totally refined wine. This is all understated class and elegance. 

Producer Commentary:
I was blown away by these wines from Steve Kistler, his partner Mark Bixler and winemaker Jason Kesner. Over the last few years Kistler has refined his approach, as he wasn't totally satisfied by the way some of his earlier wines had developed in bottle. Today Kistler is picking his Chardonnays at lower Brix levels, using less French oak (with no stirring of the lees) and keeping the wines in barrel for a shorter amount of time, all in an effort to preserve as much freshness as possible. The result is wines that are totally different in style from years past. The Pinots see a maximum 50% new oak barrels and that number will continue to trend downwards over the next few years. The 2009 harvest started around September 4th for both Chardonnay and Pinot. The 2009s were bottled in December 2010. Unfortunately, I was not able to taste the 2010s, as they had been bottled just prior to my visit. I will taste those wines in October, 2012. A frequent source of frustration among readers has been the lack of in-the-bottle reviews for Kistler wines. Beginning this year, all wines tasted from barrel will be subsequently reviewed from bottle as well. Readers who haven't tasted the Kistler wines in some time owe it to themselves to do so. These are some of the most thrilling wines being made in California today.
2002 Chardonnay Hirsch Vineyard Sonoma Coast
Color: White

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Pale-medium yellow. High-pitched aromas of orange zest, nutmeg, talc and dusty stone, with a suggestion of exotic fruits. Dense and chewy but fine-grained and bright, conveying a strong impression of extract. With its deep, intense fruit and mineral flavors, this chardonnay offers considerable immediate appeal, but it also possesses firm backbone for mid-term aging. Very long, palate-dusting finish. "The Hirsch and Hudson vineyards produce very tasty grapes when they get thoroughly ripe," notes Bixler. This one offers glorious chardonnay fruit.

Producer Commentary:
I tasted the Kistler 2002s in early March with Steve Kistler's business partner Mark Bixler, who told me that the 2002 harvest lasted from September 5 through 24, with much of the fruit being picked at the beginning of that period."There were not big regional differences in quality in 2002," Bixler reported.This year I was able to taste two pinot noir offerings, and the Cuvee Catherine was among the best Kistler pinots I've tasted to date.Bixler noted that 70% of Kistler's wine now comes from their own vineyards, and that grapes Kistler purchases are bought by the acre, rather than by the ton.
2011 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvee Cathleen Sonoma Valley
Color: White

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Light gold. Intensely aromatic scents of dried pear, orange zest, chamomile and jasmine, with hints of anise and iodine in the background. Concentrated and taut on the palate, offering tactile pear skin and Meyer lemon flavors sharpened by a strong mineral quality. Sharply delineated on the strikingly long finish, leaving dusty mineral and floral notes behind.

Producer Commentary:
In Steve Kistler's view, "the biggest issue with 2011 was anxiety" as people waited and waited for the sun to come out and for things to warm up."Having 70-degree afternoons in July, in California, makes you concerned, to say the least," he pointed out.That said, the vineyards that Kistler works with are on the cold side anyway, and as the wines here have moved decisively away from the opulent style of a decade ago he and co-owner Mark Bixler find that their '11s fit their model quite well."Tension, texture and clarity" is the goal for their chardonnays, said Kistler."If you could get your fruit ripe, which is a function of a lot of factors besides just heat, then elegant, balanced wines that have concentration were absolutely possible." Kistler, who has been making wines here since founding the winery in 1978, has embarked on a new venture called Occidental, which will produce pinot noir sourced from his vineyards on the Sonoma Coast in a new winery, near the town of Bodega. The first wines from this venture, which are being sold through the Kistler mailing list, are reviewed in this article as well, under the winery's name. He continues to oversee vineyard work and winemaking at Kistler and will be working with his daughters Catherine and Elizabeth at Occidental.
1997 Chardonnay Kistler Estate Vineyard Sonoma Valley
Color: White

Score: 94.5

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Slightly hazy. Flamboyant aromas of orange oil, ripe pear, baked apple, licorice, mint and leesy butterscotch. A wine of impressive dimension and density; still quite closed but extremely fresh, with superb structure and grip. Juicy acidity contributes to the impression of uncompromising dryness. Deep, spicy flavors really stain the palate. Maintained its shape impressively in the open bottle. This wine would do some major damage as a ringer in a flight of top white Burgundies.

Producer Commentary:
In this earliest California harvest on record, says Steve Kistler, those growers who dropped crop in '97 were most successful. Even so, some of his vineyards produced yields of over three tons per acre, high for this winery, though a few still came in under two tons. Despite the fat and richness of the '97s, Kistler says they possess average to above-average acids. It's a vintage, he explains, that generally favors chardonnay and pinot from the Russian River Valley over vineyards farther to the west, while in '98 there's less difference between the two areas. This perfectionist winemaker was quite excited about the '99 crop of pinots, which he says ripened thoroughly at moderate sugar levels and retained very fresh acidity, which will enable them to age slowly. In '98, '97 and '96, says Kistler, very good wines were made, but the skins and flavors weren't completely ripe. I found the '97s to be silkier, and less phenolic, than any previous set of Kistler chardonnays.
2003 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard Carneros
Color: White

Score: 93.5

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Medium yellow with a fresh green tinge. Pungent, high-pitched aromas of orange oil, minerals and coconut, lifted by a minty topnote. Highly concentrated, bright and tightly wound, with exhilarating flavors of tangerine, orange pith and minerals. Quite backward, and yet this is more about fruit than the Hyde bottling. Very fresh wine, but not yet expansive.

Producer Commentary:
Steve Kistler was quite excited about the quality of the 2005s, which he feels may be his best wines yet. But he described the 2003s as "rich and high in extract, with excellent structure. "Alcohol levels are in the mid-14s, which is about normal for this producer today. "We started harvesting on the late side, but the harvest took place during a fairly hot period and was more compact than usual," noted Kistler, who considers the 2003s to be a medium- to long-term ager by the standards of his wines. "In 2003 we have acids about as good as we've gotten to date, except for 2005," he told me, "but acids accompanied by thoroughly ripe fruit. "Kistler showed me a couple of very strong pinots at the end of our tasting. He feels he has turned the corner on pinot in 2002 and 2003, through a combination of slightly earlier picking and cooler fermentation temperatures. Still, he noted, whereas "we made red fruit pinots six or seven years ago," (wines he described as more Burgundian in character), "our clients expect to find black fruit flavors in our wines. "
1999 Chardonnay Kistler Estate Vineyard Sonoma Valley
Color: White

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Slightly hazy, pale yellow-gold. Superripe yet reticent aromas of dried fruits, minerals and hazelnut. Broad, rich and sweet but with perfectly harmonious acidity; highly concentrated, layered and suave. Intriguing stony and nutty nuances. Very long on the aftertaste.

Producer Commentary:
Steve Kistler, who told me that he advises his mailing-list customers to enjoy his chardonnays from most vintages within four to six years (in part because there's less free sulfur in his wines today), believes that 1999 has produced wines with longer aging potential. "In '96, '97 and '98 we had to pick late, at high sugars, to get thoroughly ripe flavors. But the '99 fruit ripened at lower sugar levels, and we benefitted from a long harvest. We got the best acids and pHs since 1995." Kistler is generally using less new oak these days: still up to 100% for the Hudson and Hyde wines but as little as 50% to 60% for the rest. And although Kistler believes that a certain amount of grape solids is needed in order for the native yeasts to function well, he has somewhat reduced the percentage of solids in recent years, to around 0.75%. Despite the fact that this winery now produces around 22,000 cases of chardonnay each year, Kistler is strictly hands-on when it comes to pressing the fruit, refusing to delegate this time-consuming but critical task to assistants. "And we're getting better at pressing cooler grapes," Kistler notes. The result of all these small improvements is that today's Kistler chardonnays are silkier and suaver than ever before, and are more likely to avoid the slight phenolic harshness that some wines have shown in past vintage.
1997 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvee Cathleen Russian River Valley
Color: White

Score: 0.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Slightly hazy. Sexy, exotic aromas of pineapple, coconut and marzipan; some high-toned oak notes. Thick and rich but light on its feet; concentrated piÃ±a colada-like flavors are fat and open. Finishes with ripe notes of baked apple and pear, and a suggestion of heat. Very strong chardonnay, but not as complex as some of the '97 vineyard-designated releases.

Producer Commentary:
In this earliest California harvest on record, says Steve Kistler, those growers who dropped crop in '97 were most successful. Even so, some of his vineyards produced yields of over three tons per acre, high for this winery, though a few still came in under two tons. Despite the fat and richness of the '97s, Kistler says they possess average to above-average acids. It's a vintage, he explains, that generally favors chardonnay and pinot from the Russian River Valley over vineyards farther to the west, while in '98 there's less difference between the two areas. This perfectionist winemaker was quite excited about the '99 crop of pinots, which he says ripened thoroughly at moderate sugar levels and retained very fresh acidity, which will enable them to age slowly. In '98, '97 and '96, says Kistler, very good wines were made, but the skins and flavors weren't completely ripe. I found the '97s to be silkier, and less phenolic, than any previous set of Kistler chardonnays.
1996 Chardonnay Camp Meeting Ridge Sonoma Coast
Color: White

Score: 92.5

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Slightly roasted aromas of hazelnut, clove, coconut cream and orange zest, plus a soupÃ§on of white chocolate. More closed in the middle palate than the Hyde, with hints of dried fruits and herbs, as well as the powerful minerality that is so well expressed by the Wente clone planted here. (Steve Kistler prefers chardonnays with a mineral rather than floral character, and thus gravitates toward the old Wente clones). Thoroughly ripe but with sound acids. Powerful, fresh aftertaste.

Producer Commentary:
Fans of Kistler chardonnay who are unable to track down this winery scarcer vineyard-designated bottlings should be happy to know that the more widely available Durell and Dutton Ranch chardonnays are both highly successful in '96. The chardonnays here typically get one-half to two-thirds new oak, though Steve Kistler emphasizes that the percentage of new wood varies by the wine and by the vintage. (Kistler Vineyards is one of the largest advance purchasers of Francois Freres barrels in California.) I was unable to taste the '97 chardonnays, as most of these wines were about to be bottled. Pinot noir is growing as a percentage of total Kistler production, but these wines are still extremely limited in the retail marketplace. The '96s I tasted are rare birds for California pinot noir: wines that offer mouthfilling richness and superb depth of flavor while retaining a sappy berry character and avoiding aromas and flavors of overripeness.
2009 Pinot Noir Silver Belt Vineyard Cuvée Natalie
Color: Red

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Both 2009 Pinots are striking. The Pinot Noir Silver Belt Vineyard Cuvée Natalie is lifted, savory and aromatic, while the Bodega Headlands Vineyard Cuvée Elizabeth is more overt and fruit-driven in style. Both wines remain quite primary, though, so readers who prefer more tertiary nuances will want to give the 2009s a few more years in the cellar. I am down to my last few bottles, and hope to have the patience to wait for the wines to enter their sweet spot.

Producer Commentary:
This wine was tasted over dinner at Bar Boulud in January of 2015.
2009 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: We are less fortunate with the 2009 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard, which never seems to come together in the glass. The flavors are decidedly mineral and savory, but the fruit is a bit muted.

Producer Commentary:
This wine was tasted over dinner at Bar Boulud in January of 2015.
2010 Pinot Noir Kistler Vineyard
Color: Red

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 2014 - 2020

Tasting notes: Ash, game, tar licorice, incense and dark cherries are some of the notes that emerge from the 2010 Pinot Noir Kistler Vineyard. A pretty soft, understated wine, the 2010 also has a hint of wildness running through it. Today, the 2010 is a bit compact, but I very much like the sense of grace here. Sweet floral notes reappear on the finish, adding a burst of freshness and vivacity to a finish underpinned by lovely streaks of saline minerality. In 2010 yields were too low for Kistler to bottle the Cuvee Elizabeth Pinot. The little fruit that came in was blended into the Kistler Vineyard Pinot. 

Producer Commentary:
It is always a pleasure to visit with Steve Kistler and his partner Mark Bixler. The 2011s and 2010s are excellent across the board, although today, I have a preference for the 2011s. Vintage 2011 is shaping up beautifully, for both the Chardonnays and Pinots. As was the case throughout the region, the season was cool and slow to develop. The 2011s were picked at lower sugars than is the norm here, but very much in keeping with the personality of the year. Steve Kistler commented that a poor set in 2011 resulted in the lowest crop loads here in years. Like a lot of his colleagues, Kistler noted that the experiences of 2010 had a huge positive impact in how he responded to similar challenges in 2011. The 2010 Chardonnays are beautiful across the board. Although solid, the 2010 Pinots aren't quite at the level of the superb 2009s and I expect, ultimately, the 2011s. It was a tough vintage for the Pinots. Yields were mercilessly low. Sadly, there is no Cuvee Elizabeth, as the little fruit that came in went into the Kistler Vineyard bottling.
2021 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 96.0

Drinking window: 2024 - 2031

Tasting notes: The 2021 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard is bright and effusive as it soars from the glass. Yellow flowers, orchard fruit, mint, spice and a kiss of French oak lend notable aromatic presence. Deceptive in its mid-weight feel, the 2021 is classic Hudson in its flavor profile and overall feel.

Producer Commentary:
These new releases from Kistler are stellar. All the wines are wonderfully detailed and expressive of place, one of the signatures of this important vintage. Winemaker and President Jason Kesner describes 2021 as a year with an early budbreak and mild summer. Inclement weather during bloom reduced yields, although nothing as severe as 2020. The Chardonnays spent 11 months in barrel, followed by a few months in steel, while the Pinots saw 9 months in oak and were bottled ahead of the 2022 harvest. I also went back and tasted half of the 2020s. Those wines reflect the challenges of the year and reinforce just how special 2021 is. Readers will not want to miss the 2021s.
2021 Chardonnay Dutton Ranch
Color: White

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 2024 - 2031

Tasting notes: The 2021 Chardonnay Dutton Ranch is the most accessible wine in this flight of Chardonnays. Tropical accents meld into orange confit, hazelnut, butter and sweet spice. The flavors are pretty intense, and yet the 2021 remains wonderfully light on its feet, with pretty floral top notes that add tons of charm and sheer appeal.

Producer Commentary:
These new releases from Kistler are stellar. All the wines are wonderfully detailed and expressive of place, one of the signatures of this important vintage. Winemaker and President Jason Kesner describes 2021 as a year with an early budbreak and mild summer. Inclement weather during bloom reduced yields, although nothing as severe as 2020. The Chardonnays spent 11 months in barrel, followed by a few months in steel, while the Pinots saw 9 months in oak and were bottled ahead of the 2022 harvest. I also went back and tasted half of the 2020s. Those wines reflect the challenges of the year and reinforce just how special 2021 is. Readers will not want to miss the 2021s.
2022 Chardonnay Les Noisetiers
Color: White

Score: 92.0

Drinking window: 2024 - 2028

Tasting notes: The 2022 Chardonnay Les Noisetiers is a class. Aromatic, silky and refined, the Noisetiers is a superb appellation-level wine. Lemon confit, marzipan, tangerine peel and exotic floral overtones give this soft, mid-weight Chardonnay tons of charm. This is a gorgeous edition of the Noisetiers.

Producer Commentary:
This is a superb set of new releases from Kistler. Readers will find wines that express the essence of site, which, in my view, is always the most important attribute for vineyard-designate wines.

Longtime winemaker Jason Kesner describes the 2022 growing season as having had more rain than the year prior. Warm weather in the early part of the year led to an early bud break. The rest of the growing season was rather mild. Harvest began in mid-August, as was the case at many properties. Longtime Kistler fans should take note of the new Chardonnay Stock Ranch, which is terrific in its debut vintage. This year I also tasted the appellation bottlings, wines that are mostly directed at restaurants.
2022 Chardonnay Mc Crea Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 2024 - 2032

Tasting notes: The 2022 Chardonnay McCrea Vineyard is a pretty dense, savory wine defined by its phenolic character, always a signature of wines from Sonoma Mountain, especially in this low-yielding vintage. Tangerine oil, hazelnut, dried flowers and spice build in a textured, ample Chardonnay of notable pedigree. 

Producer Commentary:
This is a superb set of new releases from Kistler. Readers will find wines that express the essence of site, which, in my view, is always the most important attribute for vineyard-designate wines.

Longtime winemaker Jason Kesner describes the 2022 growing season as having had more rain than the year prior. Warm weather in the early part of the year led to an early bud break. The rest of the growing season was rather mild. Harvest began in mid-August, as was the case at many properties. Longtime Kistler fans should take note of the new Chardonnay Stock Ranch, which is terrific in its debut vintage. This year I also tasted the appellation bottlings, wines that are mostly directed at restaurants.
2022 Chardonnay Stone Flat Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 96.0

Drinking window: 2024 - 2032

Tasting notes: The 2022 Chardonnay Stone Flat Vineyard is bright and nicely lifted. Airy and medium in body, the Stone Flat is a Chardonnay of sublime refinement and class. Citrus peel, white flowers, mint and crushed rocks are beautifully delineated. Pretty earthy undertones linger on the close. This is so elegant.

Producer Commentary:
This is a superb set of new releases from Kistler. Readers will find wines that express the essence of site, which, in my view, is always the most important attribute for vineyard-designate wines.

Longtime winemaker Jason Kesner describes the 2022 growing season as having had more rain than the year prior. Warm weather in the early part of the year led to an early bud break. The rest of the growing season was rather mild. Harvest began in mid-August, as was the case at many properties. Longtime Kistler fans should take note of the new Chardonnay Stock Ranch, which is terrific in its debut vintage. This year I also tasted the appellation bottlings, wines that are mostly directed at restaurants.
2022 Chardonnay Durell Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 96.0

Drinking window: 2024 - 2032

Tasting notes: The 2022 Chardonnay Durell Vineyard is ample and creamy in the glass, with striking nuance. A vivid and expressive wine, the Durrell marries brightness with textural resonance. Citrus confit, white flowers, spice, tangerine peel and mint fill out the layers. There's a lot to like.

Producer Commentary:
This is a superb set of new releases from Kistler. Readers will find wines that express the essence of site, which, in my view, is always the most important attribute for vineyard-designate wines.

Longtime winemaker Jason Kesner describes the 2022 growing season as having had more rain than the year prior. Warm weather in the early part of the year led to an early bud break. The rest of the growing season was rather mild. Harvest began in mid-August, as was the case at many properties. Longtime Kistler fans should take note of the new Chardonnay Stock Ranch, which is terrific in its debut vintage. This year I also tasted the appellation bottlings, wines that are mostly directed at restaurants.
2022 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 2024 - 2032

Tasting notes: The 2022 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard is a heady, exotic wine. Viscous and oily in the glass, the 2022 retains gorgeous freshness to balance things out. Lemon confit, spice, butter, apple tart and apricot build with a bit of time in the glass. This is classic Hyde, tempered by the personality of a cool year. 

Producer Commentary:
This is a superb set of new releases from Kistler. Readers will find wines that express the essence of site, which, in my view, is always the most important attribute for vineyard-designate wines.

Longtime winemaker Jason Kesner describes the 2022 growing season as having had more rain than the year prior. Warm weather in the early part of the year led to an early bud break. The rest of the growing season was rather mild. Harvest began in mid-August, as was the case at many properties. Longtime Kistler fans should take note of the new Chardonnay Stock Ranch, which is terrific in its debut vintage. This year I also tasted the appellation bottlings, wines that are mostly directed at restaurants.
2022 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 2024 - 2032

Tasting notes: The 2022 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard is a very pretty, floral Chardonnay. I find it a touch closed today. White flowers, lemon peel, chalk, mint, dried herbs, sage and crushed rocks open with some reticence. This is one of the few Kistler 2022s that I would cellar for now. As always, the Hudson has a slightly reductive character. 

Producer Commentary:
This is a superb set of new releases from Kistler. Readers will find wines that express the essence of site, which, in my view, is always the most important attribute for vineyard-designate wines.

Longtime winemaker Jason Kesner describes the 2022 growing season as having had more rain than the year prior. Warm weather in the early part of the year led to an early bud break. The rest of the growing season was rather mild. Harvest began in mid-August, as was the case at many properties. Longtime Kistler fans should take note of the new Chardonnay Stock Ranch, which is terrific in its debut vintage. This year I also tasted the appellation bottlings, wines that are mostly directed at restaurants.
2022 Chardonnay Dutton Ranch
Color: White

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 2025 - 2032

Tasting notes: The 2022 Chardonnay Dutton Ranch comes across as a bit tight in this tasting. Bright citrus peel, crushed rocks, minerals and salt notes lend a quite appealing freshness and vibrancy. At the same time, the 2022 has a lot to offer, for those who can wait. Today, though, it feels just a bit slender.

Producer Commentary:
This is a superb set of new releases from Kistler. Readers will find wines that express the essence of site, which, in my view, is always the most important attribute for vineyard-designate wines.

Longtime winemaker Jason Kesner describes the 2022 growing season as having had more rain than the year prior. Warm weather in the early part of the year led to an early bud break. The rest of the growing season was rather mild. Harvest began in mid-August, as was the case at many properties. Longtime Kistler fans should take note of the new Chardonnay Stock Ranch, which is terrific in its debut vintage. This year I also tasted the appellation bottlings, wines that are mostly directed at restaurants.
2022 Chardonnay Trenton Roadhouse
Color: White

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 2025 - 2032

Tasting notes: The 2022 Chardonnay Trenton Roadhouse is powerful yet restrained at the same time. Lifted floral notes, crushed rocks, mint, sage, dried herbs, tangerine peel and slate open over time. In the glass, the 2022 is a Chardonnay of notable finesse. I especially admire the energy here. Give this time to unwind. 

Producer Commentary:
This is a superb set of new releases from Kistler. Readers will find wines that express the essence of site, which, in my view, is always the most important attribute for vineyard-designate wines.

Longtime winemaker Jason Kesner describes the 2022 growing season as having had more rain than the year prior. Warm weather in the early part of the year led to an early bud break. The rest of the growing season was rather mild. Harvest began in mid-August, as was the case at many properties. Longtime Kistler fans should take note of the new Chardonnay Stock Ranch, which is terrific in its debut vintage. This year I also tasted the appellation bottlings, wines that are mostly directed at restaurants.
2022 Chardonnay Stock Ranch
Color: White

Score: 96.0

Drinking window: 2024 - 2032

Tasting notes: The 2022 Chardonnay Stock Ranch is a new wine from Kistler. It emerges from a site near Occidental, on the border with the West Sonoma Coast. Deep, bold and luscious, the 2022 stands out from the rest of the wines in this range because of its textural depth and overall intensity. At the same time, the Stock Ranch has plenty of energy and overall structure. It's one of my favorites In the range.

Producer Commentary:
This is a superb set of new releases from Kistler. Readers will find wines that express the essence of site, which, in my view, is always the most important attribute for vineyard-designate wines.

Longtime winemaker Jason Kesner describes the 2022 growing season as having had more rain than the year prior. Warm weather in the early part of the year led to an early bud break. The rest of the growing season was rather mild. Harvest began in mid-August, as was the case at many properties. Longtime Kistler fans should take note of the new Chardonnay Stock Ranch, which is terrific in its debut vintage. This year I also tasted the appellation bottlings, wines that are mostly directed at restaurants.
2022 Chardonnay Vine Hill Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 95.5

Drinking window: 2024 - 2032

Tasting notes: The 2022 Chardonnay Vine Hill Vineyard is a potent, tightly wound wine. Bright, sculpted and tightly wound, the 2022 feels like a Chardonnay that needs time to truly blossom. Its energy and persistence are both compelling. Citrus peel, sage, mint and chamomile open with some coaxing. The Vine Hill is one of the most savory and phenolic Chardonnays in the range. 

Producer Commentary:
This is a superb set of new releases from Kistler. Readers will find wines that express the essence of site, which, in my view, is always the most important attribute for vineyard-designate wines.

Longtime winemaker Jason Kesner describes the 2022 growing season as having had more rain than the year prior. Warm weather in the early part of the year led to an early bud break. The rest of the growing season was rather mild. Harvest began in mid-August, as was the case at many properties. Longtime Kistler fans should take note of the new Chardonnay Stock Ranch, which is terrific in its debut vintage. This year I also tasted the appellation bottlings, wines that are mostly directed at restaurants.
2022 Chardonnay Laguna Ridge
Color: White

Score: 97.0

Drinking window: 2025 - 2032

Tasting notes: The 2022 Chardonnay Laguna Ridge is a gorgeous, complex wine. Constantly changing in the glass, the 2022 is immediately impressive right out of the glass. Dried flowers, citrus, sage, mint, tangerine oil and hazelnut soar. The 2022 is aromatic and savory, qualities enhanced by the compelling mid-palate oiliness that is such a signature. This vivid Chardonnay is lights out. The Laguna Ridge is bottled only in magnum, a choice that seems well suited to this site. Give this time.

Producer Commentary:
This is a superb set of new releases from Kistler. Readers will find wines that express the essence of site, which, in my view, is always the most important attribute for vineyard-designate wines.

Longtime winemaker Jason Kesner describes the 2022 growing season as having had more rain than the year prior. Warm weather in the early part of the year led to an early bud break. The rest of the growing season was rather mild. Harvest began in mid-August, as was the case at many properties. Longtime Kistler fans should take note of the new Chardonnay Stock Ranch, which is terrific in its debut vintage. This year I also tasted the appellation bottlings, wines that are mostly directed at restaurants.
2022 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 96.0

Drinking window: 2026 - 2032

Tasting notes: The 2022 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard is compelling. Bright and sculpted, the 2022 impresses with energy and delineation. Bright citrus peel, crushed rocks, jasmine, tangerine oil and mint give the 2022 striking aromatic top notes. Readers will find a Chardonnay of pedigree, class and distinction. The tight finish - a signature of this hillside site - demands cellaring.

Producer Commentary:
This is a superb set of new releases from Kistler. Readers will find wines that express the essence of site, which, in my view, is always the most important attribute for vineyard-designate wines.

Longtime winemaker Jason Kesner describes the 2022 growing season as having had more rain than the year prior. Warm weather in the early part of the year led to an early bud break. The rest of the growing season was rather mild. Harvest began in mid-August, as was the case at many properties. Longtime Kistler fans should take note of the new Chardonnay Stock Ranch, which is terrific in its debut vintage. This year I also tasted the appellation bottlings, wines that are mostly directed at restaurants.
2022 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvée Cathleen
Color: White

Score: 97.0

Drinking window: 2026 - 2032

Tasting notes: The 2022 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvée Cathleen is ethereal, deep and complex all at the same time. It emerges from the tenderloin of a west-facing slope on the property that sees long periods of sunshine during the summer. There's gorgeous density and weight in the glass, and yet the Cuvée remains light on its feet. I imagine it will be exquisite in a year or two. In my view, it is the most distinctive and complex Chardonnay in the range.

Producer Commentary:
This is a superb set of new releases from Kistler. Readers will find wines that express the essence of site, which, in my view, is always the most important attribute for vineyard-designate wines.

Longtime winemaker Jason Kesner describes the 2022 growing season as having had more rain than the year prior. Warm weather in the early part of the year led to an early bud break. The rest of the growing season was rather mild. Harvest began in mid-August, as was the case at many properties. Longtime Kistler fans should take note of the new Chardonnay Stock Ranch, which is terrific in its debut vintage. This year I also tasted the appellation bottlings, wines that are mostly directed at restaurants.
2022 Pinot Noir Russian River Valley
Color: Red

Score: 91.0

Drinking window: 2024 - 2028

Tasting notes: The 2022 Pinot Noir Russian River Valley is a heady, boisterous wine. Succulent black cherry and plum make a strong first impression. Hints of chocolate, lavender, dark spice and leather follow, but this is a forward, racy wine overall. The Russian River Pinot is mostly offered to the restaurant trade, where its joyous, exuberant personality is sure to win many admirers. 

Producer Commentary:
This is a superb set of new releases from Kistler. Readers will find wines that express the essence of site, which, in my view, is always the most important attribute for vineyard-designate wines.

Longtime winemaker Jason Kesner describes the 2022 growing season as having had more rain than the year prior. Warm weather in the early part of the year led to an early bud break. The rest of the growing season was rather mild. Harvest began in mid-August, as was the case at many properties. Longtime Kistler fans should take note of the new Chardonnay Stock Ranch, which is terrific in its debut vintage. This year I also tasted the appellation bottlings, wines that are mostly directed at restaurants.
2009 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 96.0

Drinking window: 2013 - 2019

Tasting notes: The 2009 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard, on the other hand, bursts onto the palate with endless layers of white peaches, apricots and white flowers. The deep texture turns delicate and haunting on the finish. There is an exotic, floral note that is very much unique to this bottling that Steve Kistler ascribes to the Mt. Eden and Wente selections planted on this site. This is a marvelously complete, stunning wine. 

Producer Commentary:
I was blown away by these wines from Steve Kistler, his partner Mark Bixler and winemaker Jason Kesner. Over the last few years Kistler has refined his approach, as he wasn't totally satisfied by the way some of his earlier wines had developed in bottle. Today Kistler is picking his Chardonnays at lower Brix levels, using less French oak (with no stirring of the lees) and keeping the wines in barrel for a shorter amount of time, all in an effort to preserve as much freshness as possible. The result is wines that are totally different in style from years past. The Pinots see a maximum 50% new oak barrels and that number will continue to trend downwards over the next few years. The 2009 harvest started around September 4th for both Chardonnay and Pinot. The 2009s were bottled in December 2010. Unfortunately, I was not able to taste the 2010s, as they had been bottled just prior to my visit. I will taste those wines in October, 2012. A frequent source of frustration among readers has been the lack of in-the-bottle reviews for Kistler wines. Beginning this year, all wines tasted from barrel will be subsequently reviewed from bottle as well. Readers who haven't tasted the Kistler wines in some time owe it to themselves to do so. These are some of the most thrilling wines being made in California today.
2013 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 95.5

Drinking window: 2016 - 2023

Tasting notes: The 2013 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard, which emerges from a steep hillside site, is another highlight in this range. White flowers and orchard fruits abound in this very pretty, delicate, lifted Chardonnay. The Mount Eden clone Steve Kistler planted here on St. George rootstock yields an especially lifted, almost ethereal Chardonnay that is quite different from the rest of the wines in the line up. The 2013 KV has really come along well since I tasted it prior to bottling.

Producer Commentary:
I tasted a wide range of wines during two recent visits with Steve Kistler, his business partner Mark Bixler, and winemaker Jason Kesner. In 2013, the Chardonnays are more consistent across the board than the Pinots. Yields were naturally high in 2013, largely the result of large berries, which seems to have affected the Pinots more than the Chardonnays. In 2014, it is the exact opposite. Lower yields and small berries helped create ideal conditions for making superb Pinot Noir. The 2014 Chardonnays are more variable than the Pinots today, but better wines suggest there is plenty of latent potential in some of these wines that is not obvious today.
2022 Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast
Color: Red

Score: 92.0

Drinking window: 2024 - 2029

Tasting notes: The 2022 Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast is laced with crushed flowers, sweet, red-toned fruit, white pepper, herbs and orange peel. Aromatic and medium in body, the Sonoma Coast Pinot offers quite a bit of floral and savory character to play off its mid-weight personality. 

Producer Commentary:
This is a superb set of new releases from Kistler. Readers will find wines that express the essence of site, which, in my view, is always the most important attribute for vineyard-designate wines.

Longtime winemaker Jason Kesner describes the 2022 growing season as having had more rain than the year prior. Warm weather in the early part of the year led to an early bud break. The rest of the growing season was rather mild. Harvest began in mid-August, as was the case at many properties. Longtime Kistler fans should take note of the new Chardonnay Stock Ranch, which is terrific in its debut vintage. This year I also tasted the appellation bottlings, wines that are mostly directed at restaurants.
2022 Pinot Noir Silver Belt Vineyard Cuvée Natalie
Color: Red

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 2025 - 2037

Tasting notes: The 2022 Pinot Noir Silver Belt Vineyard Cuvée Natalie is a pretty, delicate wine. Crushed flowers, sweet red-toned fruit, mint, blood orange and feral overtones give this mid-weight Pinot lovely bright notes to match its understated personality. There's terrific brightness and energy here. This a pretty restrained style for Kistler, but the 2022 does gain on volume with aeration. 

Producer Commentary:
This is a superb set of new releases from Kistler. Readers will find wines that express the essence of site, which, in my view, is always the most important attribute for vineyard-designate wines.

Longtime winemaker Jason Kesner describes the 2022 growing season as having had more rain than the year prior. Warm weather in the early part of the year led to an early bud break. The rest of the growing season was rather mild. Harvest began in mid-August, as was the case at many properties. Longtime Kistler fans should take note of the new Chardonnay Stock Ranch, which is terrific in its debut vintage. This year I also tasted the appellation bottlings, wines that are mostly directed at restaurants.
2022 Pinot Noir Laguna Ridge
Color: Red

Score: 96.0

Drinking window: 2025 - 2037

Tasting notes: The 2022 Pinot Noir Laguna Ridge is dark, pliant and super-expressive right out of the gate. At the same time, it is also quite closed structurally, which I take as a positive sign for its future development. Black cherry, lavender, sage, mint and dried flowers build beautifully in the glass. There's gorgeous textural depth and intensity here. 

Producer Commentary:
This is a superb set of new releases from Kistler. Readers will find wines that express the essence of site, which, in my view, is always the most important attribute for vineyard-designate wines.

Longtime winemaker Jason Kesner describes the 2022 growing season as having had more rain than the year prior. Warm weather in the early part of the year led to an early bud break. The rest of the growing season was rather mild. Harvest began in mid-August, as was the case at many properties. Longtime Kistler fans should take note of the new Chardonnay Stock Ranch, which is terrific in its debut vintage. This year I also tasted the appellation bottlings, wines that are mostly directed at restaurants.
2006 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Sonoma Coast
Color: White

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Deep, hazy yellow. Brooding aromas of peach pit, pear skin, lees and minerals gain brightness with air, picking up livelier lime and lemongrass character. Densely packed orchard and pit fruit flavors are complicated by iodine, smoky lees and flowers. This has the texture and chewiness of a red wine. The finish strongly repeats the mineral element and lingers with impressive clarity and tanginess. For such a rich wine there's really surprising finesse too. The yield here was less than one ton per acre, Kistler told me.

Producer Commentary:
Steve Kistler works exclusively with traditional California clones for both chardonnay (such as Wente, Hyde and Mount Eden) and pinot noir (Pommard, Swan, Calera) because he believes that the Dijon clones planted in the warmer areas of the North Coast "give fruit opulence but at the expense of the minerality we like." Halfway through this year's tasting it struck me that one would be hard-pressed to find a set of more mineral-driven chardonnays anywhere today, even from Burgundy. Kistler attributes this characteristic to the aforementioned heirloom clones as well as to the fact that he works "in cool, stony vineyards that are moderated by wind and fog and have the right exposures." He told me that in 2006 all of his pinot noir was picked at, or under, 24o Brix, which means less than 13.5% potential alcohol.
2008 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Sonoma Coast
Color: White

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Bright gold. Wild, complex nose combines orange zest, dried pear, smoky minerals, iodine and a whiff of lees. Deep, stony and precise, with fruit in the background and minerality to the fore. This is a real mouthful of rocks. Becomes spicier and more floral with air and finishes with superb precision and length.

Producer Commentary:
Steve Kistler and his assistant winemaker Jason Kesner described 2008 as "a vintage where there's very good concentration to the chardonnays but not too much." Kistler told me that his aim was "to get the wines to ferment to truly dry and to never use sugar. Sugar simplifies the fruit," he added, "and if you're trying to get real complexity, much less minerality and finesse, that's going to be very hard to achieve with added sugar." Speaking of finesse, I asked Kistler about the greater precision of his pinot noirs in recent vintages. He told me "it's all part of the fine-tuning to get to where we have expression but not too much weight." He explained that he had shortened the cold soaks of his pinot, "which seems to add lift to their aromas and has increased floral and spice character." Also recommended:
2015 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 97.0

Drinking window: 2018 - 2025

Tasting notes: The 2015 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard is stellar. In this range, the Kistler Vineyard Chardonnay is distinguished by its bright aromatics, lift and nuance, all of which confer a great deal of freshness. This hillside site, with its myriad exposures, volcanic ash soils and a mix of Wente and Mount Eden clone Chardonnay on St. George rootstock yields Chardonnays of unparallelled class and distinction. This is a dazzling wine from Kistler. 

Producer Commentary:
My most recent visit to Kistler was quite poignant, as it was really emblematic of a new chapter in the history of this illustrious winery. To be sure, many of the recent changes have been in the works for some time. Steve Kistler has now moved on from the winery he founded in 1978 and set up shop at Occidental. Jason Kesner, Kistler's colleague for nearly a decade, has taken over the reins as part of a long-term succession plan that has been in place for many years. Kesner has been in every tasting I have done at Kistler since 2011. His relationship with Steve Kistler goes back quite further, to the days when Kesner was running Hudson Vineyards. Much less expected was the sudden passing of Mark Bixler, Steve Kistler's long-term business partner. Bixler had also been in all of my previous tastings at the winery. The last time I heard from Bixler was in October, right after the wildfires had burned his home. He seemed in good spirits. Then, a few weeks later, he was gone. Life can be so fleeting. As for the wines, 2015 looks more like a Pinot Noir year than a Chardonnay year at Kistler. The 2015 Pinots are off the charts great. Overall, the Chardonnays have good freshness, but the unnaturally compacted, hot growing season and early harvest appear to have attenuated some of the site-specific differences that are typically present in the wines. This seems especially true of the Hyde and Hudson Chardonnays. Readers will note that there is a name change on what was formerly the Kistler Vineyard Pinot Noir. In the past, there was some confusion in naming, because the Kistler Vineyard Chardonnays and Pinot Noir actually were made from different sites, the former from the Kistler Vineyard on Moon Mountain and the latter from the Kistler Vineyard in the Russian River. Going forward, there is no change for the Chardonnays, both of which are still made from the Kistler Vineyard on Moon Mountain. The Russian River Kistler Vineyard has been renamed Laguna Ridge, and is the source of a new Chardonnay as well as the Pinot that was previously named Kistler Vineyard. Ordinarily, I would have also reported on the 2016s prior to botting, but the October fires made that impossible.

(Originally published in Sonoma Preview: January 2018 New Releases)
2014 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 94.5

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: The 2014 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard, from the first parcel Steve Kistler bought, remains one of the most distinctive wines in the range. White flowers, mint, lemon peel and white pepper all lift from the glass. Nuanced and vivid, yet remarkably subtle, the KV Chardonnay is arguably the most refined Chardonnay in the range. Interestingly, this is the only site Kistler works with that is partly planted with Mount Eden Clone Chardonnay, some of it still on St. George rootstock. Today, the 2014 is compelling.

Producer Commentary:
I tasted a wide range of wines during two recent visits with Steve Kistler, his business partner Mark Bixler, and winemaker Jason Kesner. In 2013, the Chardonnays are more consistent across the board than the Pinots. Yields were naturally high in 2013, largely the result of large berries, which seems to have affected the Pinots more than the Chardonnays. In 2014, it is the exact opposite. Lower yields and small berries helped create ideal conditions for making superb Pinot Noir. The 2014 Chardonnays are more variable than the Pinots today, but better wines suggest there is plenty of latent potential in some of these wines that is not obvious today.
2018 Pinot Noir Laguna Ridge
Color: Red

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 2022 - 2033

Tasting notes: The 2018 Pinot Noir Laguna Ridge is tightly wound and austere in the early going. Crushed raspberry, blood orange, mint and dried flowers add an attractive savory dimension. Translucent and yet not especially forthcoming, the 2018 clearly needs time to be at its best. 

Producer Commentary:
This is a terrific set of new releases from Kistler. The 2018 Chardonnays are the most consistently brilliant wines I have ever tasted here. The long, cool growing season gave winemaker Jason Kesner the opportunity to make wines that express the character of site, and that's exactly what comes through. The 2018 Chardonnays are gorgeous wines through which to explore the wide range of vineyards in the Kistler range. I found the 2018 Pinots pretty tight and far less forthcoming than the Chardonnays. These days, Kesner picks more on acidity than fruit ripeness. Consequently, the wines have moved towards a fresher style, and that is amplified in 2018. The wines spent eleven months in barrel (about 40% new wood), followed by three months in tank prior to being bottled.
2011 Pinot Noir Silver Belt Cuvée Natalie
Color: Red

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 2014 - 2023

Tasting notes: An eccentric, beguiling Pinot, the 2011 Pinot Noir Silver Belt Cuvée Natalie is long on personality. Heady, exotic aromatics meld into a core of beautifully layered fruit in an expressive yet weightless, ethereal Pinot that constantly changes in the glass. Game, savory herbs and tangerine peel all add nuance on the finish. The Cuvée Natalie is mostly Swan clone Pinot, with some Calera.

Producer Commentary:
This is a brilliant set of wines from Steve Kistler and his longtime business partner Mark Bixler. According to Kistler, the cool 2011 vintage had little effect on the Chardonnays, all of which were picked at their levels of ripeness, which as I have written previously, are lower than was the norm up until a few years ago. Sugars were harder to come by in the Pinot Noirs, all of which have lower pHs and a little less ripeness than is typically the case. That may be why the 2011 Pinots were so slow to reveal themselves. All of the 2011s were made with native fermentations and were racked only in preparation for bottling, which was done without fining or filtration. The wines were aged in 50% new oak barrels, mostly from Francois Freres. Readers may be aware that Kistler has been partly owned by an investor group for the last six years. Steve Kistler remains CEO and in charge of day to day operations, but has also begun a new Pinot Noir project, Occidental, which is reviewed separately. Going forward, two of the flagship Kistler Pinots, the Cuvèe Catherine and Cuvèe Elizabeth, will be sold under the Occidental label, so Kistler fans will want to consult those reviews for more information on the wines and the project as a whole. Needless to say, it will be interesting to see what Steve Kistler comes up with in the next phase of what has been a brilliant career.
2011 Pinot Noir Cuvee Natalie Silver Belt Vineyard Sonoma Coast
Color: Red

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Brilliant ruby. High-pitched aromas of raspberry, cherry-cola, incense and fresh rose, with a zesty mineral nuance adding lift. Juicy, sharply delineated red berry and floral pastille flavors are given spine by tangy acidity. Expands with air, leaving sexy floral pastille and spicecake notes behind on the strikingly long finish. This suave, energetic pinot is already delicious. (JR)

Producer Commentary:
In Steve Kistler's view, "the biggest issue with 2011 was anxiety" as people waited and waited for the sun to come out and for things to warm up. "Having 70-degree afternoons in July, in California, makes you concerned, to say the least," he pointed out. That said, the vineyards that Kistler works with are on the cold side anyway, and as the wines here have moved decisively away from the opulent style of a decade ago he and co-owner Mark Bixler find that their '11s fit their model quite well. "Tension, texture and clarity" is the goal for their chardonnays, said Kistler. "If you could get your fruit ripe, which is a function of a lot of factors besides just heat, then elegant, balanced wines that have concentration were absolutely possible." Kistler, who has been making wines here since founding the winery in 1978, has embarked on a new venture called Occidental, which will produce pinot noir sourced from his vineyards on the Sonoma Coast in a new winery, near the town of Bodega. The first wines from this venture, which are being sold through the Kistler mailing list, are reviewed in this article as well, under the winery's name. He continues to oversee vineyard work and winemaking at Kistler and will be working with his daughters Catherine and Elizabeth at Occidental.
2009 Pinot Noir Cuvee Natalie Silver Belt Vineyard Sonoma Coast
Color: Red

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Bright ruby-red. Primary red and dark berry aromas are complicated by potpourri, sandalwood and Asian spices. Highly perfumed in the mouth, offering sweet black raspberry and cherry flavors brightened by a touch of blood orange. Juicy, penetrating and pure on the very long finish.

Producer Commentary:
"A great vintage, for both pinot and chardonnay," is how Steve Kistler described 2009 to me. "We got full ripeness and a good quantity of fruit, healthy and fully mature at low Brix levels." By low Brix Kistler means somewhere in the 22 to 23 range. "It's completely possible to make intense, deeply flavored wines at those ripeness levels," he said, adding that he prefers brightness over sheer mass. Kistler added that all of his wines fermented to "bone dry" in 2009, noting that he never adds sugar, acids or enzymes to his wines. He told me that he especially likes the structure imparted by the Calera selection of pinot noir and the minerality achieved by the old Wente clones of chardonnay. He reiterated his feeling that the Dijon clones of both chardonnay and pinot noir don't suit his style as they tend to overcrop and overemphasize fruitiness.
2008 Pinot Noir Cuvee Natalie Silver Belt Vineyard Sonoma Coast
Color: Red

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Bright ruby-red. Heady bouquet of black raspberry, cherry-cola, star anise and potpourri. Vibrant and light on its feet, offering sweet red and dark berry flavors that deliver liqueur-like power but carry no excess fat. Candied rose and cola notes linger on the long, incisive finish, which also features strong mineral character.

Producer Commentary:
Steve Kistler and his assistant winemaker Jason Kesner described 2008 as "a vintage where there's very good concentration to the chardonnays but not too much." Kistler told me that his aim was "to get the wines to ferment to truly dry and to never use sugar. Sugar simplifies the fruit," he added, "and if you're trying to get real complexity, much less minerality and finesse, that's going to be very hard to achieve with added sugar." Speaking of finesse, I asked Kistler about the greater precision of his pinot noirs in recent vintages. He told me "it's all part of the fine-tuning to get to where we have expression but not too much weight." He explained that he had shortened the cold soaks of his pinot, "which seems to add lift to their aromas and has increased floral and spice character." Also recommended:
2015 Pinot Noir Silver Belt Cuvée Natalie
Color: Red

Score: 95.5

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: The 2015 Pinot Noir Silver Belt Cuvée Natalie is the most reticent and tightly wound of the three 2015 Kistler Pinots I tasted. Savory herbs, red-toned fruit, mint, orange peel and a touch of whole cluster savoriness give the 2015 a fine, sculpted feel that is hard to describe with words. Bright saline notes punctuate this vivid, exceptionally beautiful Pinot. For the first time the Cuvée Natalie has a touch of whole clusters. 

Producer Commentary:
Kistler's 2015s are fabulous. Yields were down 25-30% across the board, which gives the wines notable textural richness and intensity. At the same time, acidities stayed high. The interplay of deep fruit and salivating acidity is the key attribute of these wines, and of the vintage more broadly. Two thousand fifteen is the first year in which some of the Pinot lots were done with whole clusters (on the Cuvée Natalie). In 2016, Kistler doubled the number of lots fermented with stems. The bottled 2014s are consistent with how they showed from tank prior to bottling. Readers will not want to miss the 2014 Pinots, as they are fabulous. The 2014 Chardonnays are attractive, but they are also a bit diffuse and not quite as focused as in the very best years. Yields were lower for Pinot Noir than Chardonnay, which may explain why the Pinots have an extra dimension of clarity.
2002 Chardonnay Dutton Ranch Russian River Valley
Color: White

Score: 90.5

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Good medium yellow; slightly hazy. Musky aromas of lemon peel, iodine, minerals and charred oak. Velvety-rich and sweet on the palate, but with a light touch. A seamless chardonnay that really dances on the palate, even if it doesn't offer quite the texture or intensity of the best 2002 chardonnays at this address. Finishes tight and youthfully dry, with slightly edgy acidity. This really calls for a couple years of cellaring.

Producer Commentary:
I tasted the Kistler 2002s in early March with Steve Kistler's business partner Mark Bixler, who told me that the 2002 harvest lasted from September 5 through 24, with much of the fruit being picked at the beginning of that period."There were not big regional differences in quality in 2002," Bixler reported.This year I was able to taste two pinot noir offerings, and the Cuvee Catherine was among the best Kistler pinots I've tasted to date.Bixler noted that 70% of Kistler's wine now comes from their own vineyards, and that grapes Kistler purchases are bought by the acre, rather than by the ton.
1999 Chardonnay Dutton Ranch Russian River Valley
Color: White

Score: 91.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Slightly hazy appearance and bit more yellow than the McCrea. Richer, more perfumed aromas of orange blossom, nuts, spices and dried fruits. Concentrated, dense and suave, with lively balancing acidity and floral lift. Kistler describes this wine as "one of our softer '99s." Finishes with very good length. A strong note of coconut lingers in the empty glass.

Producer Commentary:
Steve Kistler, who told me that he advises his mailing-list customers to enjoy his chardonnays from most vintages within four to six years (in part because there's less free sulfur in his wines today), believes that 1999 has produced wines with longer aging potential. "In '96, '97 and '98 we had to pick late, at high sugars, to get thoroughly ripe flavors. But the '99 fruit ripened at lower sugar levels, and we benefitted from a long harvest. We got the best acids and pHs since 1995." Kistler is generally using less new oak these days: still up to 100% for the Hudson and Hyde wines but as little as 50% to 60% for the rest. And although Kistler believes that a certain amount of grape solids is needed in order for the native yeasts to function well, he has somewhat reduced the percentage of solids in recent years, to around 0.75%. Despite the fact that this winery now produces around 22,000 cases of chardonnay each year, Kistler is strictly hands-on when it comes to pressing the fruit, refusing to delegate this time-consuming but critical task to assistants. "And we're getting better at pressing cooler grapes," Kistler notes. The result of all these small improvements is that today's Kistler chardonnays are silkier and suaver than ever before, and are more likely to avoid the slight phenolic harshness that some wines have shown in past vintage.
2014 Chardonnay Dutton Ranch
Color: White

Score: 92.5

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: The 2014 Chardonnay Dutton Ranch is beautifully centered. Hints of almond, white flowers and lemon peel flesh out in a Chardonnay that exudes depth. Oily and textured on the palate, yet also tightly wound, the Dutton Ranch appears to be holding back much of its potential.

Producer Commentary:
I tasted a wide range of wines during two recent visits with Steve Kistler, his business partner Mark Bixler, and winemaker Jason Kesner. In 2013, the Chardonnays are more consistent across the board than the Pinots. Yields were naturally high in 2013, largely the result of large berries, which seems to have affected the Pinots more than the Chardonnays. In 2014, it is the exact opposite. Lower yields and small berries helped create ideal conditions for making superb Pinot Noir. The 2014 Chardonnays are more variable than the Pinots today, but better wines suggest there is plenty of latent potential in some of these wines that is not obvious today.
2011 Chardonnay Dutton Ranch
Color: White

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 2014 - 2021

Tasting notes: Next to some of the other wines in the range that are a bit more textured, the 2011 Chardonnay Dutton Ranch is a soloist rather than an ensemble. Apricot, almond, hazelnut and dried pear notes abound in a Chardonnay built on breadth and the darker shades of fruit that are typical of Wente clone Chardonnays. The finish is long and totally enveloping.

Producer Commentary:
This is a brilliant set of wines from Steve Kistler and his longtime business partner Mark Bixler. According to Kistler, the cool 2011 vintage had little effect on the Chardonnays, all of which were picked at their levels of ripeness, which as I have written previously, are lower than was the norm up until a few years ago. Sugars were harder to come by in the Pinot Noirs, all of which have lower pHs and a little less ripeness than is typically the case. That may be why the 2011 Pinots were so slow to reveal themselves. All of the 2011s were made with native fermentations and were racked only in preparation for bottling, which was done without fining or filtration. The wines were aged in 50% new oak barrels, mostly from Francois Freres. Readers may be aware that Kistler has been partly owned by an investor group for the last six years. Steve Kistler remains CEO and in charge of day to day operations, but has also begun a new Pinot Noir project, Occidental, which is reviewed separately. Going forward, two of the flagship Kistler Pinots, the Cuvèe Catherine and Cuvèe Elizabeth, will be sold under the Occidental label, so Kistler fans will want to consult those reviews for more information on the wines and the project as a whole. Needless to say, it will be interesting to see what Steve Kistler comes up with in the next phase of what has been a brilliant career.
2011 Chardonnay Vine Hill Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 2014 - 2021

Tasting notes: Broad and expansive on the palate, the 2011 Chardonnay Vine Hill Vineyard has more than enough fruit to fill out its frame. Apricot, mint and light floral-infused honey notes abound in a creamy Chardonnay endowed with gorgeous depth and layers of flavor.

Producer Commentary:
This is a brilliant set of wines from Steve Kistler and his longtime business partner Mark Bixler. According to Kistler, the cool 2011 vintage had little effect on the Chardonnays, all of which were picked at their levels of ripeness, which as I have written previously, are lower than was the norm up until a few years ago. Sugars were harder to come by in the Pinot Noirs, all of which have lower pHs and a little less ripeness than is typically the case. That may be why the 2011 Pinots were so slow to reveal themselves. All of the 2011s were made with native fermentations and were racked only in preparation for bottling, which was done without fining or filtration. The wines were aged in 50% new oak barrels, mostly from Francois Freres. Readers may be aware that Kistler has been partly owned by an investor group for the last six years. Steve Kistler remains CEO and in charge of day to day operations, but has also begun a new Pinot Noir project, Occidental, which is reviewed separately. Going forward, two of the flagship Kistler Pinots, the Cuvèe Catherine and Cuvèe Elizabeth, will be sold under the Occidental label, so Kistler fans will want to consult those reviews for more information on the wines and the project as a whole. Needless to say, it will be interesting to see what Steve Kistler comes up with in the next phase of what has been a brilliant career.
2012 Chardonnay Vine Hill Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 2015 - 2022

Tasting notes: The 2012 Chardonnay Vine Hill Vineyard is the most compact of the three Kistler Russian River Chardonnays. Bright, focused and taut to the core, the 2012 is laced with citrus, white flowers, crushed rocks and green pears, all in a wine endowed with superb energy and pure class. Expressive floral notes add lift on the finish. The Vine Hill is shaping up to be a real beauty.

Producer Commentary:
This is a brilliant set of wines from Steve Kistler and his longtime business partner Mark Bixler. According to Kistler, the cool 2011 vintage had little effect on the Chardonnays, all of which were picked at their levels of ripeness, which as I have written previously, are lower than was the norm up until a few years ago. Sugars were harder to come by in the Pinot Noirs, all of which have lower pHs and a little less ripeness than is typically the case. That may be why the 2011 Pinots were so slow to reveal themselves. All of the 2011s were made with native fermentations and were racked only in preparation for bottling, which was done without fining or filtration. The wines were aged in 50% new oak barrels, mostly from François Frères. I also tasted the 2012s from tank, just prior to bottling. Today, the wines show terrific balance and tons of potential. I can hardly wait to taste the wines once they are in bottle. Readers may be aware that Kistler has been partly owned by an investor group for the last six years. Steve Kistler remains CEO and in charge of day to day operations, but has also begun a new Pinot Noir project, Occidental, which is reviewed separately. Going forward, two of the flagship Kistler Pinots, the Cuvée Catherine and Cuvée Elizabeth, will be sold under the Occidental label, so Kistler fans will want to consult those reviews for more information on the wines and the project as a whole. Needless to say, it will be interesting to see what Steve Kistler comes up with in the next phase of what has been a brilliant career.
2016 Chardonnay Vine Hill Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 2019 - 2026

Tasting notes: The 2016 Chardonnay Vine Hill Vineyard is laced with bright saline, citrus and floral notes that give the wine energy. Medium in body, as all these wines are, the Vine Hill is built on a beam of tension that gives the wine its shape and sense of direction. This site, planted with Steve Kistler's selection of Wente Clone Chardonnay on AxR-1 rootstock, yields wines of real character.

Producer Commentary:
There is plenty to like in this range of 2016s. Steve Kistler is now fully out from the winery he founded in 1978. My distinct impression is that this will prove to be a very positive development for all parties. Kistler has moved on to Occidental, where he is making wines in a very different style than he did here. At the same time, Jason Kesner, Kistler's successor, has the freedom to update these wines and take them to the next level, which is, frankly, something that is needed after many years of being somewhat stuck stylistically. For example, I have long felt the wines, the Chardonnays in particular, could be more differentiated. Hopefully that is something that will come in time. As for the 2016s, they are all attractive wines that will drink well with minimal cellaring.
2011 Chardonnay Vine Hill Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 2014 - 2021

Tasting notes: The 2011 Chardonnay Vine Hill Vineyard is intensely mineral from the very first taste. A wine built on energy and finesse, the 2011 displays remarkable precision in its chiseled fruit. Smoke, incense and crushed rocks are layered into the vibrant finish. 

Producer Commentary:
It is always a pleasure to visit with Steve Kistler and his partner Mark Bixler. The 2011s and 2010s are excellent across the board, although today, I have a preference for the 2011s. Vintage 2011 is shaping up beautifully, for both the Chardonnays and Pinots. As was the case throughout the region, the season was cool and slow to develop. The 2011s were picked at lower sugars than is the norm here, but very much in keeping with the personality of the year. Steve Kistler commented that a poor set in 2011 resulted in the lowest crop loads here in years. Like a lot of his colleagues, Kistler noted that the experiences of 2010 had a huge positive impact in how he responded to similar challenges in 2011. The 2010 Chardonnays are beautiful across the board. Although solid, the 2010 Pinots aren't quite at the level of the superb 2009s and I expect, ultimately, the 2011s. It was a tough vintage for the Pinots. Yields were mercilessly low. Sadly, there is no Cuvee Elizabeth, as the little fruit that came in went into the Kistler Vineyard bottling.
2014 Chardonnay Vine Hill Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 93.5

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: A wine of raw power and structure, the 2014 Chardonnay Vine Hill Vineyard comes across as not fully formed, and yet there is so much going on in the glass. The flavors and texture are quite intense in the Vine Hill, where a real sense of phenolic weight underpins the attractive lemon, apricot and chamomile notes.

Producer Commentary:
I tasted a wide range of wines during two recent visits with Steve Kistler, his business partner Mark Bixler, and winemaker Jason Kesner. In 2013, the Chardonnays are more consistent across the board than the Pinots. Yields were naturally high in 2013, largely the result of large berries, which seems to have affected the Pinots more than the Chardonnays. In 2014, it is the exact opposite. Lower yields and small berries helped create ideal conditions for making superb Pinot Noir. The 2014 Chardonnays are more variable than the Pinots today, but better wines suggest there is plenty of latent potential in some of these wines that is not obvious today.
1999 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard Carneros
Color: White

Score: 95.5

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Pale yellow-gold. Multidimensional, sulfidey nose combines tangerine, orange marmalade, butter, hazelnut, minerals and iodine. Dense and thick but still tightly wound and quite light on its feet; a very young wine with a superb spine of acidity and great precision. Suggestions of ripe peach and nuts in the mouth. Very long on the finish but still quite backward; the '98 version from this vineyard is more extroverted, notes Kistler.

Producer Commentary:
Steve Kistler, who told me that he advises his mailing-list customers to enjoy his chardonnays from most vintages within four to six years (in part because there's less free sulfur in his wines today), believes that 1999 has produced wines with longer aging potential. "In '96, '97 and '98 we had to pick late, at high sugars, to get thoroughly ripe flavors. But the '99 fruit ripened at lower sugar levels, and we benefitted from a long harvest. We got the best acids and pHs since 1995." Kistler is generally using less new oak these days: still up to 100% for the Hudson and Hyde wines but as little as 50% to 60% for the rest. And although Kistler believes that a certain amount of grape solids is needed in order for the native yeasts to function well, he has somewhat reduced the percentage of solids in recent years, to around 0.75%. Despite the fact that this winery now produces around 22,000 cases of chardonnay each year, Kistler is strictly hands-on when it comes to pressing the fruit, refusing to delegate this time-consuming but critical task to assistants. "And we're getting better at pressing cooler grapes," Kistler notes. The result of all these small improvements is that today's Kistler chardonnays are silkier and suaver than ever before, and are more likely to avoid the slight phenolic harshness that some wines have shown in past vintage.
1996 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard Carneros
Color: White

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Bright yellow-gold. Knockout nose combines roasted grain, iodine, coconut, smoke and orange peel. Explosive sweet fruit in the mouth; thick but vibrant. A wine of huge extract. Amazingly smooth but spicy finish. A shockingly good early showing for this wine. Great California chardonnay.

Producer Commentary:
Fans of Kistler chardonnay who are unable to track down this winery scarcer vineyard-designated bottlings should be happy to know that the more widely available Durell and Dutton Ranch chardonnays are both highly successful in '96. The chardonnays here typically get one-half to two-thirds new oak, though Steve Kistler emphasizes that the percentage of new wood varies by the wine and by the vintage. (Kistler Vineyards is one of the largest advance purchasers of Francois Freres barrels in California.) I was unable to taste the '97 chardonnays, as most of these wines were about to be bottled. Pinot noir is growing as a percentage of total Kistler production, but these wines are still extremely limited in the retail marketplace. The '96s I tasted are rare birds for California pinot noir: wines that offer mouthfilling richness and superb depth of flavor while retaining a sappy berry character and avoiding aromas and flavors of overripeness.
2013 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 2016 - 2023

Tasting notes: Graphite, savory herbs, chamomile, apricot and crème brulée open up in the 2013 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard. Exotic and dense on the palate, the 2013 also offers tremendous structure to balance out some of its more overt leanings. Today, the Hudson is one of the most powerful wines in the range. 

Producer Commentary:
I tasted all of Kistler's 2013s in October 2014, shortly prior to bottling. According to Steve Kistler, the 2013 harvest was two weeks earlier than it was in 2012, which is pretty typical across Sonoma. I found the 2013s to have considerable energy and tension. It will be interesting to see how that translates once the wines have settled down in bottle.
2010 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard Carneros
Color: White

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Green-tinged yellow. Precise aromas of orange zest, fresh pineapple, iodine, white flowers and smoky lees. Spicy, high-pitched and penetrating, with palate-staining citrus and orchard fruit flavors and pronounced minerality. Shows outstanding tension and focus on the long, smoke- and floral-accented finish.

Producer Commentary:
Aside from the obvious "stressful growing season and short crop," Steve Kistler is "very pleased with how 2010 has ultimately turned out" for both chardonnay and pinot noir. The coolness of the season encouraged the naturally low pHs and low sugars ("but with full ripeness") that Kistler seeks. According to Kistler, "They had the concentration to quickly and efficiently absorb the oak" and show a spiciness that makes for plenty of immediate appeal. The pinots "have a taut quality" that bodes well for aging, he says, adding that the late season heat spikes were mostly beneficial "if your vineyards were in cold, windy or high altitude spots and you hadn't gone too far with canopy thinning."
2011 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard Carneros
Color: White

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Vivid gold. Leesy, toasty and spicy on the nose, displaying scents of orchard fruits, orange zest and gingery spices. A spicy, mineral-accented chardonnay that offers intense pear and citrus fruit flavors and a pronounced mineral undertone. The spiciness builds on the finish, which shows excellent clarity and persistence.

Producer Commentary:
In Steve Kistler's view, "the biggest issue with 2011 was anxiety" as people waited and waited for the sun to come out and for things to warm up. "Having 70-degree afternoons in July, in California, makes you concerned, to say the least," he pointed out. That said, the vineyards that Kistler works with are on the cold side anyway, and as the wines here have moved decisively away from the opulent style of a decade ago he and co-owner Mark Bixler find that their '11s fit their model quite well. "Tension, texture and clarity" is the goal for their chardonnays, said Kistler. "If you could get your fruit ripe, which is a function of a lot of factors besides just heat, then elegant, balanced wines that have concentration were absolutely possible." Kistler, who has been making wines here since founding the winery in 1978, has embarked on a new venture called Occidental, which will produce pinot noir sourced from his vineyards on the Sonoma Coast in a new winery, near the town of Bodega. The first wines from this venture, which are being sold through the Kistler mailing list, are reviewed in this article as well, under the winery's name. He continues to oversee vineyard work and winemaking at Kistler and will be working with his daughters Catherine and Elizabeth at Occidental.
2016 Chardonnay Trenton Roadhouse
Color: White

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 2020 - 2026

Tasting notes: The 2016 Chardonnay Trenton Roadhouse is another super-expressive wine in this range. The Trenton Roadhouse has more of a dried fruit, savory and hazelnut-leaning profile to match its soft, silky personality. Generous and nuanced, with lovely floral top notes, the Trenton Roadhouse is all class.

Producer Commentary:
There is plenty to like in this range of 2016s. Steve Kistler is now fully out from the winery he founded in 1978. My distinct impression is that this will prove to be a very positive development for all parties. Kistler has moved on to Occidental, where he is making wines in a very different style than he did here. At the same time, Jason Kesner, Kistler's successor, has the freedom to update these wines and take them to the next level, which is, frankly, something that is needed after many years of being somewhat stuck stylistically. For example, I have long felt the wines, the Chardonnays in particular, could be more differentiated. Hopefully that is something that will come in time. As for the 2016s, they are all attractive wines that will drink well with minimal cellaring.
2014 Chardonnay Trenton Roadhouse
Color: White

Score: 92.0

Drinking window: 2017 - 2022

Tasting notes: The 2014 Chardonnay Trenton Roadhouse is one of the more delicate wines in this range. Orchard fruit, lemon confit, white flowers and mint shape this attractive, understated Chardonnay. I would prefer to drink the 2014 over the next few years, while the fruit remains vibrant. This is an exceptionally polished Chardonnay from Kistler. 

Producer Commentary:
Kistler's 2015s are fabulous. Yields were down 25-30% across the board, which gives the wines notable textural richness and intensity. At the same time, acidities stayed high. The interplay of deep fruit and salivating acidity is the key attribute of these wines, and of the vintage more broadly. Two thousand fifteen is the first year in which some of the Pinot lots were done with whole clusters (on the Cuvée Natalie). In 2016, Kistler doubled the number of lots fermented with stems. The bottled 2014s are consistent with how they showed from tank prior to bottling. Readers will not want to miss the 2014 Pinots, as they are fabulous. The 2014 Chardonnays are attractive, but they are also a bit diffuse and not quite as focused as in the very best years. Yields were lower for Pinot Noir than Chardonnay, which may explain why the Pinots have an extra dimension of clarity.
2014 Chardonnay Stone Flat Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 92.5

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: The 2014 Chardonnay Stone Flat Vineyard is right across the road from Durrell, yet it is so remarkably different in style. Candied lemon, honey and mint are all pushed forward. The Stone Flat presents an intriguing combination of creaminess and minerality.

Producer Commentary:
I tasted a wide range of wines during two recent visits with Steve Kistler, his business partner Mark Bixler, and winemaker Jason Kesner. In 2013, the Chardonnays are more consistent across the board than the Pinots. Yields were naturally high in 2013, largely the result of large berries, which seems to have affected the Pinots more than the Chardonnays. In 2014, it is the exact opposite. Lower yields and small berries helped create ideal conditions for making superb Pinot Noir. The 2014 Chardonnays are more variable than the Pinots today, but better wines suggest there is plenty of latent potential in some of these wines that is not obvious today.
2017 Chardonnay Stone Flat Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 96.0

Drinking window: 2019 - 2027

Tasting notes: The 2017 Chardonnay Stone Flat Vineyard emerges from parcels that are now technically in Durell and that are just across the road from the historic core of that site. Interestingly, the two Chardonnays are incredibly different. The Stone Flat Chardonnay is a decidedly richer and more powerful wine. Tangerine, hazelnut, dried flowers, mint and lightly honeyed notes give the Stone Flat a viscous, textured feel that is quite distinctive. Exotic and arresting in its beauty, the Stone Flat is compelling in 2017.

Producer Commentary:
Jason Kesner turned out a brilliant set of wines at Kistler in 2017. Yields were quite low because of poor weather during set. Kesner told me he was able to pick almost all his fruit - both Pinot and Chardonnay - before the Labor Day heat, which is rare. Perhaps more importantly, over the last few years, Kesner has moved picking dates up by three days on average, which is considerable, especially for Chardonnay. Today's Kistler wines clearly offer more freshness and nuance than in the past. The 2017s are some of the very finest and most consistent wines I have ever tasted here. Clearly, the wines carry considerable textural richness. and yet they are also distinct and highly expressive of site. The 2017s were all racked from barrel to tank just prior to the 2018 harvest, and bottled in November of that year.
2011 Chardonnay Stone Flat Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 2014 - 2021

Tasting notes: Kistler's 2011 Chardonnay Stone Flat Vineyard is one of the fleshier, more voluptuous wines in the range. Hazelnuts, smoke, incense and yellow stone fruits all make an appearance in a wine that impresses for its fleshiness and exuberance, within the context of the year, of course. It will be interesting to see where this goes over the next year. 

Producer Commentary:
It is always a pleasure to visit with Steve Kistler and his partner Mark Bixler. The 2011s and 2010s are excellent across the board, although today, I have a preference for the 2011s. Vintage 2011 is shaping up beautifully, for both the Chardonnays and Pinots. As was the case throughout the region, the season was cool and slow to develop. The 2011s were picked at lower sugars than is the norm here, but very much in keeping with the personality of the year. Steve Kistler commented that a poor set in 2011 resulted in the lowest crop loads here in years. Like a lot of his colleagues, Kistler noted that the experiences of 2010 had a huge positive impact in how he responded to similar challenges in 2011. The 2010 Chardonnays are beautiful across the board. Although solid, the 2010 Pinots aren't quite at the level of the superb 2009s and I expect, ultimately, the 2011s. It was a tough vintage for the Pinots. Yields were mercilessly low. Sadly, there is no Cuvee Elizabeth, as the little fruit that came in went into the Kistler Vineyard bottling.
2013 Chardonnay Durell Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 2016 - 2021

Tasting notes: The 2013 Chardonnay Durell Vineyard comes across as a bit more closed than the McCrea. It will be interesting to see if the Durrell gains a little more flesh over time. Today, it is one of the leaner wines in the range, although there is plenty of energy and brightness in the citrus and floral notes that are front and center. Of all the 2013 Chardonnays, the Durell is the least expressive relative to how it showed from tank prior to bottling.

Producer Commentary:
I tasted a wide range of wines during two recent visits with Steve Kistler, his business partner Mark Bixler, and winemaker Jason Kesner. In 2013, the Chardonnays are more consistent across the board than the Pinots. Yields were naturally high in 2013, largely the result of large berries, which seems to have affected the Pinots more than the Chardonnays. In 2014, it is the exact opposite. Lower yields and small berries helped create ideal conditions for making superb Pinot Noir. The 2014 Chardonnays are more variable than the Pinots today, but better wines suggest there is plenty of latent potential in some of these wines that is not obvious today.
2014 Chardonnay Durell Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 92.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: The 2014 Chardonnay Durell Vineyard has a lovely spine of energy and phenolic intensity running through the fruit. Candied lemon peel, white flowers, honey and chamomile are all laced together. There is an attractive flintiness to the 2014, but no sense of heaviness whatsoever.

Producer Commentary:
I tasted a wide range of wines during two recent visits with Steve Kistler, his business partner Mark Bixler, and winemaker Jason Kesner. In 2013, the Chardonnays are more consistent across the board than the Pinots. Yields were naturally high in 2013, largely the result of large berries, which seems to have affected the Pinots more than the Chardonnays. In 2014, it is the exact opposite. Lower yields and small berries helped create ideal conditions for making superb Pinot Noir. The 2014 Chardonnays are more variable than the Pinots today, but better wines suggest there is plenty of latent potential in some of these wines that is not obvious today.
2000 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard Carneros
Color: White

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Pale bright yellow. More Burgundian, sulfidey aromas of nuts, iodine, smoke and earth. Dense, suave and vibrant, with very subtle flavors of lemon and minerals. Offers an uncanny combination of airy texture and thickness of fruit. A wine of great sweetness and lift. Superconcentrated without being at all aggressive or phenolic.

Producer Commentary:
The wines here are finer than ever before, mostly avoiding the chewy, phenolic finishes that have long characterized these remarkably rich chardonnays. The level of solids in the wines is now down to 0.75%, according to Steve Kistler, who notes that "there's not a single lot of grapes that I don't press myself." In addition, Kistler is using less new oak today. The top wines in 1997 were 100% new oak, Kistler told me, but the 2000s are typically between 50% and 60%. Kistler described the 2000 vintage as resembling 1999 in that the wines are not overblown and possess good structure. In both years, he added, the flavors developed well at lower sugar levels. In contrast, the three previous vintages all produced chardonnays higher in alcohol.
2014 Chardonnay Mc Crea Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 91.5

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: The 2014 Chardonnay McCrea Vineyard is gorgeous. Lemon oil, white flowers, mint and white pepper are all laced together. Feminine, gracious and understated, the McCrea is beautifully balanced throughout.

Producer Commentary:
I tasted a wide range of wines during two recent visits with Steve Kistler, his business partner Mark Bixler, and winemaker Jason Kesner. In 2013, the Chardonnays are more consistent across the board than the Pinots. Yields were naturally high in 2013, largely the result of large berries, which seems to have affected the Pinots more than the Chardonnays. In 2014, it is the exact opposite. Lower yields and small berries helped create ideal conditions for making superb Pinot Noir. The 2014 Chardonnays are more variable than the Pinots today, but better wines suggest there is plenty of latent potential in some of these wines that is not obvious today.
2012 Chardonnay Mc Crea Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 2015 - 2022

Tasting notes: Nectarine, orange blossoms, mint, nutmeg and almond all blossom in the 2012 Chardonnay McCrea Vineyard. A rich, voluptuous Chardonnay with lovely textural depth and roundness, the 2012 impresses for its balance and pure class. I expect the McCrea will be one of the more immediate wines in this lineup of 2012s.

Producer Commentary:
This is a brilliant set of wines from Steve Kistler and his longtime business partner Mark Bixler. According to Kistler, the cool 2011 vintage had little effect on the Chardonnays, all of which were picked at their levels of ripeness, which as I have written previously, are lower than was the norm up until a few years ago. Sugars were harder to come by in the Pinot Noirs, all of which have lower pHs and a little less ripeness than is typically the case. That may be why the 2011 Pinots were so slow to reveal themselves. All of the 2011s were made with native fermentations and were racked only in preparation for bottling, which was done without fining or filtration. The wines were aged in 50% new oak barrels, mostly from François Frères. I also tasted the 2012s from tank, just prior to bottling. Today, the wines show terrific balance and tons of potential. I can hardly wait to taste the wines once they are in bottle. Readers may be aware that Kistler has been partly owned by an investor group for the last six years. Steve Kistler remains CEO and in charge of day to day operations, but has also begun a new Pinot Noir project, Occidental, which is reviewed separately. Going forward, two of the flagship Kistler Pinots, the Cuvée Catherine and Cuvée Elizabeth, will be sold under the Occidental label, so Kistler fans will want to consult those reviews for more information on the wines and the project as a whole. Needless to say, it will be interesting to see what Steve Kistler comes up with in the next phase of what has been a brilliant career.
2009 Pinot Noir Bodega Headlands Cuvee Elizabeth Sonoma Coast
Color: Red

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Bright ruby. Heady, exotic nose delivers an array of red berry, spice and floral qualities, with a bright mineral topnote Graceful, focused red berry and rose pastille flavors show outstanding vivacity, with spicecake and anise flavors contributing complexity. Very pure, mineral-driven pinot with wonderful finishing clarity and lingering florality. This fruit (almost all Calera clone) was picked at 23 degrees Brix, according to Kistler; the yield from the 18 planted acres was only 18 tons. (JR)

Producer Commentary:
"A great vintage, for both pinot and chardonnay," is how Steve Kistler described 2009 to me. "We got full ripeness and a good quantity of fruit, healthy and fully mature at low Brix levels." By low Brix Kistler means somewhere in the 22 to 23 range. "It's completely possible to make intense, deeply flavored wines at those ripeness levels," he said, adding that he prefers brightness over sheer mass. Kistler added that all of his wines fermented to "bone dry" in 2009, noting that he never adds sugar, acids or enzymes to his wines. He told me that he especially likes the structure imparted by the Calera selection of pinot noir and the minerality achieved by the old Wente clones of chardonnay. He reiterated his feeling that the Dijon clones of both chardonnay and pinot noir don't suit his style as they tend to overcrop and overemphasize fruitiness.
2009 Pinot Noir Bodega Headlands Cuvee Elizabeth
Color: Red

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 2013 - 2021

Tasting notes: The 2009 Pinot Noir Bodega Headlands Cuvee Elizabeth comes across as a bit firmer and less expressive than the Cuvee Catherine. There is a salty, saline quality that runs through the fruit in this powerful, structured wine. Waves of fruit crescendo on the explosive finish. This is a dazzling Pinot Noir, but it will require at least another year or two in bottle to reveal its pedigree. I loved it. 

Producer Commentary:
I was blown away by these wines from Steve Kistler, his partner Mark Bixler and winemaker Jason Kesner. Over the last few years Kistler has refined his approach, as he wasn't totally satisfied by the way some of his earlier wines had developed in bottle. Today Kistler is picking his Chardonnays at lower Brix levels, using less French oak (with no stirring of the lees) and keeping the wines in barrel for a shorter amount of time, all in an effort to preserve as much freshness as possible. The result is wines that are totally different in style from years past. The Pinots see a maximum 50% new oak barrels and that number will continue to trend downwards over the next few years. The 2009 harvest started around September 4th for both Chardonnay and Pinot. The 2009s were bottled in December 2010. Unfortunately, I was not able to taste the 2010s, as they had been bottled just prior to my visit. I will taste those wines in October, 2012. A frequent source of frustration among readers has been the lack of in-the-bottle reviews for Kistler wines. Beginning this year, all wines tasted from barrel will be subsequently reviewed from bottle as well. Readers who haven't tasted the Kistler wines in some time owe it to themselves to do so. These are some of the most thrilling wines being made in California today.
1982 California Cabernet Sauvignon Veeder Hills Vineyard
Color: Red

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 2019 - 2029

Tasting notes: Still fresh and wonderfully vibrant, the 1982 has enough richness to drink well for another decade. Iron, smoke, pepper, red cherry, sage and chalk give the 1982 a distinctly savory character to match its old school personality. Even after all these years, the 1982 is positively brilliant. 

Producer Commentary:
2018 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 96.0

Drinking window: 2020 - 2028

Tasting notes: The 2018 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard is one of the most elegant wines in this range. Orchard fruit, mint and citrus add striking dimensions of complexity. Fresh and vibrant in the glass, with tons of nuance, the Hudson is exquisitely beautiful. As it so often is, the Hudson is a Chardonnay of reserve and class. 

Producer Commentary:
This is a terrific set of new releases from Kistler. The 2018 Chardonnays are the most consistently brilliant wines I have ever tasted here. The long, cool growing season gave winemaker Jason Kesner the opportunity to make wines that express the character of site, and that's exactly what comes through. The 2018 Chardonnays are gorgeous wines through which to explore the wide range of vineyards in the Kistler range. I found the 2018 Pinots pretty tight and far less forthcoming than the Chardonnays. These days, Kesner picks more on acidity than fruit ripeness. Consequently, the wines have moved towards a fresher style, and that is amplified in 2018. The wines spent eleven months in barrel (about 40% new wood), followed by three months in tank prior to being bottled.
2000 Pinot Noir Kistler Vineyard Sonoma Coast
Color: Red

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 0 - 0

Tasting notes: Deep red-ruby. Highly spicy aromas of cherry and raspberry, with a hint of wasabi. Sweet, chewy flavors of black and red fruits, smoke, earth, minerals, cinnamon and mace, complicated by caramel, roasted nuts and toast from the 100% new barrels. Finishes extremely subtle and long, with suave, even tannins and compelling sweetness. The new oak component is seamlessly integrated. A superb showing for this pinot.

Producer Commentary:
The wines here are finer than ever before, mostly avoiding the chewy, phenolic finishes that have long characterized these remarkably rich chardonnays. The level of solids in the wines is now down to 0.75%, according to Steve Kistler, who notes that "there's not a single lot of grapes that I don't press myself." In addition, Kistler is using less new oak today. The top wines in 1997 were 100% new oak, Kistler told me, but the 2000s are typically between 50% and 60%. Kistler described the 2000 vintage as resembling 1999 in that the wines are not overblown and possess good structure. In both years, he added, the flavors developed well at lower sugar levels. In contrast, the three previous vintages all produced chardonnays higher in alcohol.
2013 Pinot Noir Kistler Vineyard
Color: Red

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 2016 - 2025

Tasting notes: The 2013 Pinot Noir Kistler Vineyard comes across as delicate and nuanced today, with lovely delineation in its dark red/purplish fruit. Polished, silky tannins convey an impression of finesse as the layers of fruit continue to open up in the glass. Perfumed mint and spice notes add to the wine's overall complexity. 

Producer Commentary:
I tasted all of Kistler's 2013s in October 2014, shortly prior to bottling. According to Steve Kistler, the 2013 harvest was two weeks earlier than it was in 2012, which is pretty typical across Sonoma. I found the 2013s to have considerable energy and tension. It will be interesting to see how that translates once the wines have settled down in bottle.
2019 Chardonnay Mc Crea Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 2021 - 2029

Tasting notes: The 2019 Chardonnay McCrea Vineyard is fresh, perfumed and beautifully lifted. Lemon confit, marzipan, dried flowers and chamomile all grace this gentle, understated Chardonnay from Kistler. Bright mineral notes punctuate the brilliant finish. Floral and saline hints are especially prominent. The McCrea vineyard designate emerges from the portion of the vineyard that is rich in white silica soils, while fruit from volcanic soils go into the Sonoma Mountain bottling.

Producer Commentary:
This is a gorgeous set of wines from Kistler. The 2019 Chardonnays show the pedigree of the vintage in their nuance, character and site expression. As good as the Chardonnays are, the Pinots might be even more impressive, as the year was generally far less favorable for Pinot. Winemaker Jason Kesner describes 2019 as a year that was pretty similar to 2018, with the exception of warmer nights at the very end of the season. That ultimately led to a harvest that was a day or two earlier than 2018. Yields were on the generous side, as they were in 2018.
2019 Chardonnay Stone Flat Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 2021 - 2029

Tasting notes: The 2019 Chardonnay Stone Flat Vineyard is laced with the essence of tangerine oil, hazelnut, marzipan. Rich, oily and layered in the glass, the Stone Flat is a total knock-out. Tropical and buttery notes add an exotic flair that is impossible to miss. In 2019, the Stone Flat is quite extroverted. It's a style that works so well here. Stone Flat emerges from one of the sections of Durrell on a river bed, towards the entrance, planted with Chardonnay on 420A rootstock. 

Producer Commentary:
This is a gorgeous set of wines from Kistler. The 2019 Chardonnays show the pedigree of the vintage in their nuance, character and site expression. As good as the Chardonnays are, the Pinots might be even more impressive, as the year was generally far less favorable for Pinot. Winemaker Jason Kesner describes 2019 as a year that was pretty similar to 2018, with the exception of warmer nights at the very end of the season. That ultimately led to a harvest that was a day or two earlier than 2018. Yields were on the generous side, as they were in 2018.
2019 Chardonnay Durell Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 96.0

Drinking window: 2021 - 2029

Tasting notes: The 2019 Chardonnay Durell Vineyard offers a compelling interplay of floral and mineral notes. Vibrant and beautifully focused, the 2019 is a terrific example of this Sonoma site. There is translucency that is beguiling. Sage, mint, chamomile and anise linger on the dense, mineral close. Kistler Hyde/Wente clone Chardonnay on 3309 rootstock yields naturally small berries and a potent, heady wine. This is a fabulous expression of Durell.

Producer Commentary:
This is a gorgeous set of wines from Kistler. The 2019 Chardonnays show the pedigree of the vintage in their nuance, character and site expression. As good as the Chardonnays are, the Pinots might be even more impressive, as the year was generally far less favorable for Pinot. Winemaker Jason Kesner describes 2019 as a year that was pretty similar to 2018, with the exception of warmer nights at the very end of the season. That ultimately led to a harvest that was a day or two earlier than 2018. Yields were on the generous side, as they were in 2018.
2019 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 96.0

Drinking window: 2022 - 2031

Tasting notes: The 2019 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard is deep, and concentrated. In 2019, I am especially taken by the wine's viscosity and sheer richness, both at a level I have never seen here previously. Lemon confit, marzipan, dried flowers, chamomile and almond build in a statuesque Chardonnay that delivers the goods. In 2019, the Hudson is especially fine. The purity of the fruit is remarkable, while the note of reduction that is typical of Hudson is not especially evident. 

Producer Commentary:
This is a gorgeous set of wines from Kistler. The 2019 Chardonnays show the pedigree of the vintage in their nuance, character and site expression. As good as the Chardonnays are, the Pinots might be even more impressive, as the year was generally far less favorable for Pinot. Winemaker Jason Kesner describes 2019 as a year that was pretty similar to 2018, with the exception of warmer nights at the very end of the season. That ultimately led to a harvest that was a day or two earlier than 2018. Yields were on the generous side, as they were in 2018.
2019 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 2021 - 2029

Tasting notes: Scents of tangerine peel, burnt sugar, dried flowers and honey all build as this unctuous, flamboyant 2019 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard struts its stuff. This is classic Hyde all the way, but with a bit more freshness and less opulence than has been the case in the past. Its biggest competition comes from the other wines in this range!

Producer Commentary:
This is a gorgeous set of wines from Kistler. The 2019 Chardonnays show the pedigree of the vintage in their nuance, character and site expression. As good as the Chardonnays are, the Pinots might be even more impressive, as the year was generally far less favorable for Pinot. Winemaker Jason Kesner describes 2019 as a year that was pretty similar to 2018, with the exception of warmer nights at the very end of the season. That ultimately led to a harvest that was a day or two earlier than 2018. Yields were on the generous side, as they were in 2018.
2019 Chardonnay Trenton Roadhouse
Color: White

Score: 96.0

Drinking window: 2022 - 2031

Tasting notes: The 2019 Chardonnay Trenton Roadhouse is one of the most reticent wines in this range. Bright saline and mineral notes give the Trenton Roadhouse terrific energy and cut. Readers should plan on cellaring the 2019 for at least a few years, as it is pretty reticent at this stage. Even so, the wine's beauty and elegance are impossible to miss. Goldridge soils with fine-grained sands over clay yields a Chardonnay of tremendous class. 

Producer Commentary:
This is a gorgeous set of wines from Kistler. The 2019 Chardonnays show the pedigree of the vintage in their nuance, character and site expression. As good as the Chardonnays are, the Pinots might be even more impressive, as the year was generally far less favorable for Pinot. Winemaker Jason Kesner describes 2019 as a year that was pretty similar to 2018, with the exception of warmer nights at the very end of the season. That ultimately led to a harvest that was a day or two earlier than 2018. Yields were on the generous side, as they were in 2018.
2019 Chardonnay Dutton Ranch
Color: White

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 2021 - 2029

Tasting notes: The 2019 Chardonnay Dutton Ranch is another wine that impresses with its balance and class. Lemon confit, white flowers, white pepper, mint and chalk give the Dutton Ranch its distinctive upper register. The Dutton is perhaps not as complex as some of the other wines in the range, but it is among the most approachable and delicious today. 

Producer Commentary:
This is a gorgeous set of wines from Kistler. The 2019 Chardonnays show the pedigree of the vintage in their nuance, character and site expression. As good as the Chardonnays are, the Pinots might be even more impressive, as the year was generally far less favorable for Pinot. Winemaker Jason Kesner describes 2019 as a year that was pretty similar to 2018, with the exception of warmer nights at the very end of the season. That ultimately led to a harvest that was a day or two earlier than 2018. Yields were on the generous side, as they were in 2018.
2019 Chardonnay Vine Hill Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 2022 - 2029

Tasting notes: The 2019 Chardonnay Vine Hill Vineyard is redolent of apricot, yellow flowers, tangerine oil and mint. In 2019, the Vine Hill is deep, opulent and beautifully textured. Readers should plan on cellaring the Vine Hill for at least a year or two, as it is an especially rich, dense wine, with real sense of structure underpinning the fruit.

Producer Commentary:
This is a gorgeous set of wines from Kistler. The 2019 Chardonnays show the pedigree of the vintage in their nuance, character and site expression. As good as the Chardonnays are, the Pinots might be even more impressive, as the year was generally far less favorable for Pinot. Winemaker Jason Kesner describes 2019 as a year that was pretty similar to 2018, with the exception of warmer nights at the very end of the season. That ultimately led to a harvest that was a day or two earlier than 2018. Yields were on the generous side, as they were in 2018.
2019 Chardonnay Laguna Ridge (Magnum)
Color: White

Score: 97.0

Drinking window: 2022 - 2031

Tasting notes: The 2019 Chardonnay Laguna Ridge (Magnum) is outrageously beautiful. In 2019, the Laguna Ridge marries textural intensity and vibrancy to a degree I have not seen before with this bottling, which debuted in 2015. Clean mineral and savory notes extend the finish effortlessly. Offered only in magnum, the 2019 needs time to shed some of its baby fat. It is such a gorgeous wine.

Producer Commentary:
This is a gorgeous set of wines from Kistler. The 2019 Chardonnays show the pedigree of the vintage in their nuance, character and site expression. As good as the Chardonnays are, the Pinots might be even more impressive, as the year was generally far less favorable for Pinot. Winemaker Jason Kesner describes 2019 as a year that was pretty similar to 2018, with the exception of warmer nights at the very end of the season. That ultimately led to a harvest that was a day or two earlier than 2018. Yields were on the generous side, as they were in 2018.
2019 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvée Cathleen
Color: White

Score: 97.0

Drinking window: 2022 - 2031

Tasting notes: The 2019 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvée Cathleen is all density, power and texture. At times, the Cuvée feels more like a red wine. Dried flowers, lemon peel, marzipan, sage and mint confer striking complexity. Readers will find a dense, potent mountain Chardonnay that delivers the goods and then some. In 2019, the Cuvée is especially fine. 

Producer Commentary:
This is a gorgeous set of wines from Kistler. The 2019 Chardonnays show the pedigree of the vintage in their nuance, character and site expression. As good as the Chardonnays are, the Pinots might be even more impressive, as the year was generally far less favorable for Pinot. Winemaker Jason Kesner describes 2019 as a year that was pretty similar to 2018, with the exception of warmer nights at the very end of the season. That ultimately led to a harvest that was a day or two earlier than 2018. Yields were on the generous side, as they were in 2018.
2019 Pinot Noir Silver Belt Vineyard Cuvée Natalie
Color: Red

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 2024 - 2034

Tasting notes: The 2019 Pinot Noir Silver Belt Vineyard Cuvée Natalie is a very pretty, refined wine. Dried rose petal, mint, sage, sweet red cherry, tobacco and cedar are all beautifully lifted. Layered and yet also translucent, with tons of class, the Silver Belt is pretty impressive in 2019. In some previous years, the Silver Belt has been a bit rustic, but those qualities are not at all evident in the 2019. Cooler temperatures in fermentation seem to have helped quite a bit. 

Producer Commentary:
This is a gorgeous set of wines from Kistler. The 2019 Chardonnays show the pedigree of the vintage in their nuance, character and site expression. As good as the Chardonnays are, the Pinots might be even more impressive, as the year was generally far less favorable for Pinot. Winemaker Jason Kesner describes 2019 as a year that was pretty similar to 2018, with the exception of warmer nights at the very end of the season. That ultimately led to a harvest that was a day or two earlier than 2018. Yields were on the generous side, as they were in 2018.
2021 Pinot Noir Silver Belt Vineyard Cuvée Natalie
Color: Red

Score: 97.0

Drinking window: 2025 - 2033

Tasting notes: The 2021 Pinot Noir Silver Belt Vineyard Cuvée Natalie is stellar. Rich and explosive, the 2021 is bursting with inky red/purplish fruit, rose petal, lavender, game, tobacco and incense. The purity of the flavors is just remarkable. There's so much textural depth and textural richness here. My impression is that the best is yet to come. 

Producer Commentary:
These new releases from Kistler are stellar. All the wines are wonderfully detailed and expressive of place, one of the signatures of this important vintage. Winemaker and President Jason Kesner describes 2021 as a year with an early budbreak and mild summer. Inclement weather during bloom reduced yields, although nothing as severe as 2020. The Chardonnays spent 11 months in barrel, followed by a few months in steel, while the Pinots saw 9 months in oak and were bottled ahead of the 2022 harvest. I also went back and tasted half of the 2020s. Those wines reflect the challenges of the year and reinforce just how special 2021 is. Readers will not want to miss the 2021s.
2020 Chardonnay Mc Crea Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 89.0

Drinking window: 2022 - 2026

Tasting notes: The 2020 Chardonnay McCrea Vineyard offers good brightness and energy in the soft, understated style of the year. There's just not much depth or complexity here, despite the fact that the wine's balance is impeccable relative to what was possible in 2020. Lemon peel, white flowers and crushed rocks lend brightness throughout. 

Producer Commentary:
The 2020s from Kistler are a bit chaotic. In that sense, the wines will give readers a very good idea of the challenges of the vintage across several appellations in Sonoma County. Winemaker Jason Kesner was about to start harvest at Silver Belt in mid-August but was forced to call off the crews because of lightning storms. Those storms quickly set off what became known as the LNU Lightning Complex fires that wreaked havoc throughout California. Kesner was faced with a series of brutal decisions that came down to a choice of picking earlier than planned or not making wine at all. The core of harvest, which usually takes ten days, took six in 2020. Overall, the wines are typical of the year. Some are very light and edgy; others have a bit more mid-palate depth and textural presence. It is a vintage in which site signatures are not fully expressed. These are good wines for the vintage, but the challenges of the growing season were just too great to overcome.
2020 Chardonnay Stone Flat Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 91.0

Drinking window: 2022 - 2027

Tasting notes: The 2020 Chardonnay Stone Flat Vineyard is pretty ripe in this vintage. It offers up scents of apricot, hazelnut, dried flowers, chamomile, sweet spice and orange peel. Medium in body, yet quite extroverted, the 2020 is nicely balanced.

Producer Commentary:
The 2020s from Kistler are a bit chaotic. In that sense, the wines will give readers a very good idea of the challenges of the vintage across several appellations in Sonoma County. Winemaker Jason Kesner was about to start harvest at Silver Belt in mid-August but was forced to call off the crews because of lightning storms. Those storms quickly set off what became known as the LNU Lightning Complex fires that wreaked havoc throughout California. Kesner was faced with a series of brutal decisions that came down to a choice of picking earlier than planned or not making wine at all. The core of harvest, which usually takes ten days, took six in 2020. Overall, the wines are typical of the year. Some are very light and edgy; others have a bit more mid-palate depth and textural presence. It is a vintage in which site signatures are not fully expressed. These are good wines for the vintage, but the challenges of the growing season were just too great to overcome.
2020 Chardonnay Durell Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 92.0

Drinking window: 2022 - 2027

Tasting notes: The 2020 Chardonnay Durell Vineyard is bright and effusive in its aromatics, showing lovely depth to match its understated personality. Lemon confit, white flowers, mint, sage and almond build nicely into the delicate, nuanced finish.

Producer Commentary:
The 2020s from Kistler are a bit chaotic. In that sense, the wines will give readers a very good idea of the challenges of the vintage across several appellations in Sonoma County. Winemaker Jason Kesner was about to start harvest at Silver Belt in mid-August but was forced to call off the crews because of lightning storms. Those storms quickly set off what became known as the LNU Lightning Complex fires that wreaked havoc throughout California. Kesner was faced with a series of brutal decisions that came down to a choice of picking earlier than planned or not making wine at all. The core of harvest, which usually takes ten days, took six in 2020. Overall, the wines are typical of the year. Some are very light and edgy; others have a bit more mid-palate depth and textural presence. It is a vintage in which site signatures are not fully expressed. These are good wines for the vintage, but the challenges of the growing season were just too great to overcome.
2020 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 88.0

Drinking window: 2022 - 2026

Tasting notes: The 2020 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard comes across as a bit compact and lacking its customary depth. Then again, this is 2020. There is good initial brightness and energy, but the mid-palate feels a bit empty, which is typical of the year. 

Producer Commentary:
The 2020s from Kistler are a bit chaotic. In that sense, the wines will give readers a very good idea of the challenges of the vintage across several appellations in Sonoma County. Winemaker Jason Kesner was about to start harvest at Silver Belt in mid-August but was forced to call off the crews because of lightning storms. Those storms quickly set off what became known as the LNU Lightning Complex fires that wreaked havoc throughout California. Kesner was faced with a series of brutal decisions that came down to a choice of picking earlier than planned or not making wine at all. The core of harvest, which usually takes ten days, took six in 2020. Overall, the wines are typical of the year. Some are very light and edgy; others have a bit more mid-palate depth and textural presence. It is a vintage in which site signatures are not fully expressed. These are good wines for the vintage, but the challenges of the growing season were just too great to overcome.
2020 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 89.0

Drinking window: 2022 - 2026

Tasting notes: The 2020 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard is a pleasant wine to drink now and over the next handful of years. It shows good depth for the vintage, with just enough Hyde character to make it interesting. Hints of tangerine oil, mint, burnt sugar and honey linger.

Producer Commentary:
The 2020s from Kistler are a bit chaotic. In that sense, the wines will give readers a very good idea of the challenges of the vintage across several appellations in Sonoma County. Winemaker Jason Kesner was about to start harvest at Silver Belt in mid-August but was forced to call off the crews because of lightning storms. Those storms quickly set off what became known as the LNU Lightning Complex fires that wreaked havoc throughout California. Kesner was faced with a series of brutal decisions that came down to a choice of picking earlier than planned or not making wine at all. The core of harvest, which usually takes ten days, took six in 2020. Overall, the wines are typical of the year. Some are very light and edgy; others have a bit more mid-palate depth and textural presence. It is a vintage in which site signatures are not fully expressed. These are good wines for the vintage, but the challenges of the growing season were just too great to overcome.
2020 Chardonnay Dutton Ranch
Color: White

Score: 90.0

Drinking window: 2022 - 2027

Tasting notes: The 2020 Chardonnay Dutton Ranch is a soft, easygoing wine to drink now and over the next handful of years. White orchard fruit, mint, spice and slate give the 2020 lovely energy to play off its mid-weight structure. The Dutton Ranch is not terribly complex, but it is well balanced and quite tasty. Pretty floral accents lift the finish. 

Producer Commentary:
The 2020s from Kistler are a bit chaotic. In that sense, the wines will give readers a very good idea of the challenges of the vintage across several appellations in Sonoma County. Winemaker Jason Kesner was about to start harvest at Silver Belt in mid-August but was forced to call off the crews because of lightning storms. Those storms quickly set off what became known as the LNU Lightning Complex fires that wreaked havoc throughout California. Kesner was faced with a series of brutal decisions that came down to a choice of picking earlier than planned or not making wine at all. The core of harvest, which usually takes ten days, took six in 2020. Overall, the wines are typical of the year. Some are very light and edgy; others have a bit more mid-palate depth and textural presence. It is a vintage in which site signatures are not fully expressed. These are good wines for the vintage, but the challenges of the growing season were just too great to overcome.
2020 Chardonnay Vine Hill Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 87.0

Drinking window: 2022 - 2025

Tasting notes: The 2020 Chardonnay Vine Hill Vineyard comes across as light, diluted and lacking in body. There are no obvious flaws, but not much depth or complexity. Time brings out angular contours.

Producer Commentary:
The 2020s from Kistler are a bit chaotic. In that sense, the wines will give readers a very good idea of the challenges of the vintage across several appellations in Sonoma County. Winemaker Jason Kesner was about to start harvest at Silver Belt in mid-August but was forced to call off the crews because of lightning storms. Those storms quickly set off what became known as the LNU Lightning Complex fires that wreaked havoc throughout California. Kesner was faced with a series of brutal decisions that came down to a choice of picking earlier than planned or not making wine at all. The core of harvest, which usually takes ten days, took six in 2020. Overall, the wines are typical of the year. Some are very light and edgy; others have a bit more mid-palate depth and textural presence. It is a vintage in which site signatures are not fully expressed. These are good wines for the vintage, but the challenges of the growing season were just too great to overcome.
2020 Chardonnay Laguna Ridge
Color: White

Score: 88.0

Drinking window: 2022 - 2026

Tasting notes: The 2020 Chardonnay Laguna Ridge (Magnum) has just enough depth to be interesting for a few years. Apricot, tropical fruit, sweet spice and honey are all signatures of a very warm and dry year. The short, abrupt finish suggests near-term drinking is the best course of action.

Producer Commentary:
The 2020s from Kistler are a bit chaotic. In that sense, the wines will give readers a very good idea of the challenges of the vintage across several appellations in Sonoma County. Winemaker Jason Kesner was about to start harvest at Silver Belt in mid-August but was forced to call off the crews because of lightning storms. Those storms quickly set off what became known as the LNU Lightning Complex fires that wreaked havoc throughout California. Kesner was faced with a series of brutal decisions that came down to a choice of picking earlier than planned or not making wine at all. The core of harvest, which usually takes ten days, took six in 2020. Overall, the wines are typical of the year. Some are very light and edgy; others have a bit more mid-palate depth and textural presence. It is a vintage in which site signatures are not fully expressed. These are good wines for the vintage, but the challenges of the growing season were just too great to overcome.
2020 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 92.0

Drinking window: 2022 - 2027

Tasting notes: The 2020 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard is one the more complete wines in this range. It offers fine depth and plenty of energy. Citrus peel, white flowers, mint, crushed rocks, graphite and dried herbs open nicely in the glass. This is a strong showing for the year.

Producer Commentary:
The 2020s from Kistler are a bit chaotic. In that sense, the wines will give readers a very good idea of the challenges of the vintage across several appellations in Sonoma County. Winemaker Jason Kesner was about to start harvest at Silver Belt in mid-August but was forced to call off the crews because of lightning storms. Those storms quickly set off what became known as the LNU Lightning Complex fires that wreaked havoc throughout California. Kesner was faced with a series of brutal decisions that came down to a choice of picking earlier than planned or not making wine at all. The core of harvest, which usually takes ten days, took six in 2020. Overall, the wines are typical of the year. Some are very light and edgy; others have a bit more mid-palate depth and textural presence. It is a vintage in which site signatures are not fully expressed. These are good wines for the vintage, but the challenges of the growing season were just too great to overcome.
2020 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvée Cathleen
Color: White

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 2022 - 2027

Tasting notes: The 2020 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvée Cathleen is silky and beautifully textured. Hints of apricot, chamomile, tangerine oil, white flowers, sage and dried almonds lend notable complexity. There's real depth and substance here, especially within the context of a year where those were so hard to come by.

Producer Commentary:
The 2020s from Kistler are a bit chaotic. In that sense, the wines will give readers a very good idea of the challenges of the vintage across several appellations in Sonoma County. Winemaker Jason Kesner was about to start harvest at Silver Belt in mid-August but was forced to call off the crews because of lightning storms. Those storms quickly set off what became known as the LNU Lightning Complex fires that wreaked havoc throughout California. Kesner was faced with a series of brutal decisions that came down to a choice of picking earlier than planned or not making wine at all. The core of harvest, which usually takes ten days, took six in 2020. Overall, the wines are typical of the year. Some are very light and edgy; others have a bit more mid-palate depth and textural presence. It is a vintage in which site signatures are not fully expressed. These are good wines for the vintage, but the challenges of the growing season were just too great to overcome.
2020 Pinot Noir Laguna Ridge
Color: Red

Score: 92.0

Drinking window: 2022 - 2030

Tasting notes: The 2020 Pinot Noir Laguna Ridge is one of the highlights in this range from Kistler. It offers up generous red/purplish fruit, lavender, sage, rose petal, mint, spice and hard candy. There's a good bit of exuberance, or at least as much as it was possible in 2020. Here, though, the fruit was picked a day later than originally intended because lightning strikes began the night before.

Producer Commentary:
The 2020s from Kistler are a bit chaotic. In that sense, the wines will give readers a very good idea of the challenges of the vintage across several appellations in Sonoma County. Winemaker Jason Kesner was about to start harvest at Silver Belt in mid-August but was forced to call off the crews because of lightning storms. Those storms quickly set off what became known as the LNU Lightning Complex fires that wreaked havoc throughout California. Kesner was faced with a series of brutal decisions that came down to a choice of picking earlier than planned or not making wine at all. The core of harvest, which usually takes ten days, took six in 2020. Overall, the wines are typical of the year. Some are very light and edgy; others have a bit more mid-palate depth and textural presence. It is a vintage in which site signatures are not fully expressed. These are good wines for the vintage, but the challenges of the growing season were just too great to overcome.
2020 Chardonnay Trenton Roadhouse
Color: White

Score: 92.0

Drinking window: 2022 - 2027

Tasting notes: The 2020 Chardonnay Trenton Roadhouse is a very pretty wine. Creamy and layered, the Trenton Roadhouse has the mid-palate depth that is missing in so many 2020s. Orchard fruit, spice, dried flowers and chamomile all grace this tasty, understated Russian River Chardonnay.

Producer Commentary:
The 2020s from Kistler are a bit chaotic. In that sense, the wines will give readers a very good idea of the challenges of the vintage across several appellations in Sonoma County. Winemaker Jason Kesner was about to start harvest at Silver Belt in mid-August but was forced to call off the crews because of lightning storms. Those storms quickly set off what became known as the LNU Lightning Complex fires that wreaked havoc throughout California. Kesner was faced with a series of brutal decisions that came down to a choice of picking earlier than planned or not making wine at all. The core of harvest, which usually takes ten days, took six in 2020. Overall, the wines are typical of the year. Some are very light and edgy; others have a bit more mid-palate depth and textural presence. It is a vintage in which site signatures are not fully expressed. These are good wines for the vintage, but the challenges of the growing season were just too great to overcome.
2020 Pinot Noir Silver Belt Vineyard Cuvée Natalie
Color: Red

Score: 89.0

Drinking window: 2022 - 2027

Tasting notes: The 2020 Pinot Noir Silver Belt Vineyard Cuvée Natalie is laced with crushed raspberry fruit, mint, spice, blood orange, sweet pipe tobacco and incense. There are some hard edges, and the Natalie doesn’t have the typical depth readers have come to expect here but all things considered, the 2020 is a fine success for the year. 

Producer Commentary:
The 2020s from Kistler are a bit chaotic. In that sense, the wines will give readers a very good idea of the challenges of the vintage across several appellations in Sonoma County. Winemaker Jason Kesner was about to start harvest at Silver Belt in mid-August but was forced to call off the crews because of lightning storms. Those storms quickly set off what became known as the LNU Lightning Complex fires that wreaked havoc throughout California. Kesner was faced with a series of brutal decisions that came down to a choice of picking earlier than planned or not making wine at all. The core of harvest, which usually takes ten days, took six in 2020. Overall, the wines are typical of the year. Some are very light and edgy; others have a bit more mid-palate depth and textural presence. It is a vintage in which site signatures are not fully expressed. These are good wines for the vintage, but the challenges of the growing season were just too great to overcome.
2018 Chardonnay Vine Hill Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 96.0

Drinking window: 2024 - 2040

Tasting notes: The white came from California, the 2018 Chardonnay Vine Hill Vineyard from Kistler. A refreshingly light bouquet at first, it required a few minutes to charge its batteries, and then it was off. Lemon verbena, melted butter, white peaches and vanilla pod on the exquisitely defined nose. The palate is very harmonious and smooth, with deftly integrated oak, touches of kaffir lime and wild honey on the finish. This was exquisite; Russian River Chardonnay at its best.

Producer Commentary:
I was extremely impressed by every course at the Dysart. This is Michelin-approved fine dining, as it ought to be. The expertise of the Chef and his team shone through in practically every dish to such a degree that only distance from central London can explain why this restaurant is not more lauded.
2021 Chardonnay Durell Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 2024 - 2031

Tasting notes: The 2021 Chardonnay Durell Vineyard offers a beguiling mix of fruit intensity framed by strong mineral, soil-driven tons. Lemon confit, tangerine peel, chamomile, graphite and dried herbs fill out the layers in a Chardonnay marked by intense minerality, strong citrus character and fabulous balance. 

Producer Commentary:
These new releases from Kistler are stellar. All the wines are wonderfully detailed and expressive of place, one of the signatures of this important vintage. Winemaker and President Jason Kesner describes 2021 as a year with an early budbreak and mild summer. Inclement weather during bloom reduced yields, although nothing as severe as 2020. The Chardonnays spent 11 months in barrel, followed by a few months in steel, while the Pinots saw 9 months in oak and were bottled ahead of the 2022 harvest. I also went back and tasted half of the 2020s. Those wines reflect the challenges of the year and reinforce just how special 2021 is. Readers will not want to miss the 2021s.
2021 Chardonnay Mc Crea Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 2024 - 2031

Tasting notes: The 2021 Chardonnay McCrea Vineyard is fabulous. Rich, deep and super-expressive, the 2021 offers a beguiling mix of intense mineral-driven savoriness with a tropical flair I don't recall seeing in this wine before. A Chardonnay of structure and intensity, the McCrea is superb in 2021. The density of low yields comes through loud and clear. This is a fabulous McCrea. As always, the vineyard designate wine emerges from portions of the vineyard with white volcanic soils, while blocks planted on reddish soils are used for the Sonoma Valley Chardonnay that is typically sold only into restaurants. 

Producer Commentary:
These new releases from Kistler are stellar. All the wines are wonderfully detailed and expressive of place, one of the signatures of this important vintage. Winemaker and President Jason Kesner describes 2021 as a year with an early budbreak and mild summer. Inclement weather during bloom reduced yields, although nothing as severe as 2020. The Chardonnays spent 11 months in barrel, followed by a few months in steel, while the Pinots saw 9 months in oak and were bottled ahead of the 2022 harvest. I also went back and tasted half of the 2020s. Those wines reflect the challenges of the year and reinforce just how special 2021 is. Readers will not want to miss the 2021s.
2021 Chardonnay Stone Flat Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 2024 - 2031

Tasting notes: The 2021 Chardonnay Stone Flat Vineyard is packed with the essence of tangerine oil, hazelnut, dried flowers, herbs and ripe apricot. Potent and layered, the Stone Flat is super-impressive right out of the gate. It's another wine with real density. All the elements are dialed up in 2021. Stone Flat is distinguished from Durell, which is adjacent, because of the use of 420A rootstock (versus 3309 at Durell). That, in the theory, results in a wine with lower pH and therefore higher acidity, but that is not the impression conveyed in tasting.

Producer Commentary:
These new releases from Kistler are stellar. All the wines are wonderfully detailed and expressive of place, one of the signatures of this important vintage. Winemaker and President Jason Kesner describes 2021 as a year with an early budbreak and mild summer. Inclement weather during bloom reduced yields, although nothing as severe as 2020. The Chardonnays spent 11 months in barrel, followed by a few months in steel, while the Pinots saw 9 months in oak and were bottled ahead of the 2022 harvest. I also went back and tasted half of the 2020s. Those wines reflect the challenges of the year and reinforce just how special 2021 is. Readers will not want to miss the 2021s.
2021 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 2024 - 2031

Tasting notes: The 2021 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard is laced with the essence of tangerine oil, hazelnut, passionfruit, spice and lightly honeyed notes. All the exotic signature of Hyde come through loud and clear, but there's tons of energy too. I especially like how this opens with time. This is beautifully done. 

Producer Commentary:
These new releases from Kistler are stellar. All the wines are wonderfully detailed and expressive of place, one of the signatures of this important vintage. Winemaker and President Jason Kesner describes 2021 as a year with an early budbreak and mild summer. Inclement weather during bloom reduced yields, although nothing as severe as 2020. The Chardonnays spent 11 months in barrel, followed by a few months in steel, while the Pinots saw 9 months in oak and were bottled ahead of the 2022 harvest. I also went back and tasted half of the 2020s. Those wines reflect the challenges of the year and reinforce just how special 2021 is. Readers will not want to miss the 2021s.
2021 Chardonnay Trenton Roadhouse
Color: White

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 2024 - 2031

Tasting notes: The 2021 Chardonnay Trenton Roadhouse is one of the more potent wines in this range. Fruit is pushed into the background in a Chardonnay that offers tons of mineral and savory intensity. Dried herbs, crushed flowers, rocks and chamomile lend nuance throughout. The Trenton Roadhouse is not an obvious wine, but it is still super-impressive. Here, too, the density of the vintage is very much apparent.

Producer Commentary:
These new releases from Kistler are stellar. All the wines are wonderfully detailed and expressive of place, one of the signatures of this important vintage. Winemaker and President Jason Kesner describes 2021 as a year with an early budbreak and mild summer. Inclement weather during bloom reduced yields, although nothing as severe as 2020. The Chardonnays spent 11 months in barrel, followed by a few months in steel, while the Pinots saw 9 months in oak and were bottled ahead of the 2022 harvest. I also went back and tasted half of the 2020s. Those wines reflect the challenges of the year and reinforce just how special 2021 is. Readers will not want to miss the 2021s.
2021 Chardonnay Vine Hill Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 96.0

Drinking window: 2024 - 2031

Tasting notes: The 2021 Chardonnay Vine Hill Vineyard bristles with tons of energy and nuance. Crushed rocks, mint, flowers, lemon confit and hazelnut all race across the palate. More than anything else, I am drawn by the wine's remarkable energy and tension. There is a feeling of explosive, mineral-drenched drive that is palpable.

Producer Commentary:
These new releases from Kistler are stellar. All the wines are wonderfully detailed and expressive of place, one of the signatures of this important vintage. Winemaker and President Jason Kesner describes 2021 as a year with an early budbreak and mild summer. Inclement weather during bloom reduced yields, although nothing as severe as 2020. The Chardonnays spent 11 months in barrel, followed by a few months in steel, while the Pinots saw 9 months in oak and were bottled ahead of the 2022 harvest. I also went back and tasted half of the 2020s. Those wines reflect the challenges of the year and reinforce just how special 2021 is. Readers will not want to miss the 2021s.
2021 Chardonnay Laguna Ridge
Color: White

Score: 97.0

Drinking window: 2024 - 2031

Tasting notes: The 2021 Chardonnay Laguna Ridge (bottled only in magnum) captures all the best the year had to give. Rich, explosive and wonderfully deep, the 2021 exudes concentration and structure from the very first taste. Crushed rocks, dried lemon peel, white flowers, mint, herbs and incense all build in the glass, with a light touch of reduction that extends into the finish. This complex, dynamic Chardonnay is a stunning wine by any measure. 

Producer Commentary:
These new releases from Kistler are stellar. All the wines are wonderfully detailed and expressive of place, one of the signatures of this important vintage. Winemaker and President Jason Kesner describes 2021 as a year with an early budbreak and mild summer. Inclement weather during bloom reduced yields, although nothing as severe as 2020. The Chardonnays spent 11 months in barrel, followed by a few months in steel, while the Pinots saw 9 months in oak and were bottled ahead of the 2022 harvest. I also went back and tasted half of the 2020s. Those wines reflect the challenges of the year and reinforce just how special 2021 is. Readers will not want to miss the 2021s.
2021 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 96.0

Drinking window: 2024 - 2031

Tasting notes: The 2021 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard is a wine of grace and class. Time in the glass brings out hints of ginger, dried flowers and spice that lend an exotic flair. I would cellar this for a year or two, as the wine's structural elements are front and center at this stage. There's gorgeous aromatic presence that begins to emerge over time.

Producer Commentary:
These new releases from Kistler are stellar. All the wines are wonderfully detailed and expressive of place, one of the signatures of this important vintage. Winemaker and President Jason Kesner describes 2021 as a year with an early budbreak and mild summer. Inclement weather during bloom reduced yields, although nothing as severe as 2020. The Chardonnays spent 11 months in barrel, followed by a few months in steel, while the Pinots saw 9 months in oak and were bottled ahead of the 2022 harvest. I also went back and tasted half of the 2020s. Those wines reflect the challenges of the year and reinforce just how special 2021 is. Readers will not want to miss the 2021s.
2021 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvée Cathleen
Color: White

Score: 98.0

Drinking window: 2024 - 2031

Tasting notes: The 2021 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvée Cathleen is one of the best wines I have ever tasted from Kistler. Complex and multi-faceted, the 2021 offers up an exciting mélange of ripe orchard fruit, dried flowers, mint, spice and anise. There's an energy to the 2021, a feeling of noble complexity, that is so alluring. 

Producer Commentary:
These new releases from Kistler are stellar. All the wines are wonderfully detailed and expressive of place, one of the signatures of this important vintage. Winemaker and President Jason Kesner describes 2021 as a year with an early budbreak and mild summer. Inclement weather during bloom reduced yields, although nothing as severe as 2020. The Chardonnays spent 11 months in barrel, followed by a few months in steel, while the Pinots saw 9 months in oak and were bottled ahead of the 2022 harvest. I also went back and tasted half of the 2020s. Those wines reflect the challenges of the year and reinforce just how special 2021 is. Readers will not want to miss the 2021s.
2021 Pinot Noir Laguna Ridge
Color: Red

Score: 98.0

Drinking window: 2025 - 2033

Tasting notes: The 2021 Pinot Noir Laguna Ridge is bright and beautifully focused from start to finish. Crushed red berry fruit, blood orange, mint, spice, rose petal and white pepper are all finely delineated. The 2021 impresses with its tension and overall energy. A move to picking this fruit earlier has resulted in a Pinot endowed with notable tension. I love the focus here. The 2021 is a stunner.

Producer Commentary:
These new releases from Kistler are stellar. All the wines are wonderfully detailed and expressive of place, one of the signatures of this important vintage. Winemaker and President Jason Kesner describes 2021 as a year with an early budbreak and mild summer. Inclement weather during bloom reduced yields, although nothing as severe as 2020. The Chardonnays spent 11 months in barrel, followed by a few months in steel, while the Pinots saw 9 months in oak and were bottled ahead of the 2022 harvest. I also went back and tasted half of the 2020s. Those wines reflect the challenges of the year and reinforce just how special 2021 is. Readers will not want to miss the 2021s.
2023 Chardonnay Mc Crea Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 2026 - 2033

Tasting notes: The 2023 Chardonnay McCrea Vineyard is a classy, elegant wine. Apricot, chalk, graphite and dried herbs confer a decidedly savory flair to this layered, super-expressive Chardonnay. Time in the glass brings out brisk acids and compelling brightness to round things out. This is an especially fine McCrea. As always, the vineyard-designate bottling emerges from sections of the vineyard planted on white ash. These days, winemaker Jason Kesner prefers to pick a bit earlier than in the past. That is especially evident in the McCrea in 2023. 

Producer Commentary:
This is a stellar set of wines from Kistler and winemaker Jason Kesner. What impresses me most, though, is how Kesner has gently moved the wines towards a more contemporary style over the last several vintages without drastically changing the house style.

I first started visiting the winery about 15 years ago. Back then, my tastings were with Steve Kistler, business partner the late Mark Bixler and a timid Jason Kesner in the background. Working with a highly influential and iconic mentor is never easy. It’s something I have a great deal of personal experience with. In those days, Kistler was painfully shy and probably already thinking about his future. Bixler was more open and engaging, but always with a quiet and gentle demeanor. I got to know Kistler better when he took me to see his first vineyard, the site on Moon Mountain known internally as Nelligan Road, on several occasions when I was researching our map. It’s a ranch that holds special significance, as the Kistler family lived on the property and made wine there in the early days. Sadly, those buildings were severely damaged in the 2020 fires. At one point, Kesner told me I had spent more time on that ranch with Kistler than he had. I have no doubt that is true.

Since then, Kesner has gradually shaped the wines into a style that emphasizes a bit more freshness and tension than in the past. He has done that while keeping all the Kistler signatures pretty much in place. That’s a very rare skill. The 2023s, wines from a long, cold growing season, are fabulous. Readers will find Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs that capture the purest essence of site, the most important attribute I look for in vineyard-designate wines. The Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvée Cathleen is without question one of the wines of the vintage.
2023 Chardonnay Stone Flat Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 96.0

Drinking window: 2026 - 2033

Tasting notes: The 2023 Chardonnay Stone Flat Vineyard is a wild, exuberant wine. Apricot, graphite, dried herbs, menthol and crushed leaves soar out of the glass. This dynamic, layered Chardonnay is lights-out gorgeous. There's a real feeling of viscosity that is so compelling. A wine of mid-palate creaminess and palate presence, the Stone Flat is outstanding. 

Producer Commentary:
This is a stellar set of wines from Kistler and winemaker Jason Kesner. What impresses me most, though, is how Kesner has gently moved the wines towards a more contemporary style over the last several vintages without drastically changing the house style.

I first started visiting the winery about 15 years ago. Back then, my tastings were with Steve Kistler, business partner the late Mark Bixler and a timid Jason Kesner in the background. Working with a highly influential and iconic mentor is never easy. It’s something I have a great deal of personal experience with. In those days, Kistler was painfully shy and probably already thinking about his future. Bixler was more open and engaging, but always with a quiet and gentle demeanor. I got to know Kistler better when he took me to see his first vineyard, the site on Moon Mountain known internally as Nelligan Road, on several occasions when I was researching our map. It’s a ranch that holds special significance, as the Kistler family lived on the property and made wine there in the early days. Sadly, those buildings were severely damaged in the 2020 fires. At one point, Kesner told me I had spent more time on that ranch with Kistler than he had. I have no doubt that is true.

Since then, Kesner has gradually shaped the wines into a style that emphasizes a bit more freshness and tension than in the past. He has done that while keeping all the Kistler signatures pretty much in place. That’s a very rare skill. The 2023s, wines from a long, cold growing season, are fabulous. Readers will find Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs that capture the purest essence of site, the most important attribute I look for in vineyard-designate wines. The Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvée Cathleen is without question one of the wines of the vintage.
2023 Chardonnay Durell Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 96.0

Drinking window: 2026 - 2033

Tasting notes: The 2023 Chardonnay Durell Vineyard is a dense, potent wine. Apricot, dried pear, chamomile dried herbs and tangerine peel stain the palate. A hint of truffle adds an exotic flair to this wonderfully creamy, deep Chardonnay. The Durrell is marked by a distinct phenolic character that is the result of tiny berries. What a beauty.

Producer Commentary:
This is a stellar set of wines from Kistler and winemaker Jason Kesner. What impresses me most, though, is how Kesner has gently moved the wines towards a more contemporary style over the last several vintages without drastically changing the house style.

I first started visiting the winery about 15 years ago. Back then, my tastings were with Steve Kistler, business partner the late Mark Bixler and a timid Jason Kesner in the background. Working with a highly influential and iconic mentor is never easy. It’s something I have a great deal of personal experience with. In those days, Kistler was painfully shy and probably already thinking about his future. Bixler was more open and engaging, but always with a quiet and gentle demeanor. I got to know Kistler better when he took me to see his first vineyard, the site on Moon Mountain known internally as Nelligan Road, on several occasions when I was researching our map. It’s a ranch that holds special significance, as the Kistler family lived on the property and made wine there in the early days. Sadly, those buildings were severely damaged in the 2020 fires. At one point, Kesner told me I had spent more time on that ranch with Kistler than he had. I have no doubt that is true.

Since then, Kesner has gradually shaped the wines into a style that emphasizes a bit more freshness and tension than in the past. He has done that while keeping all the Kistler signatures pretty much in place. That’s a very rare skill. The 2023s, wines from a long, cold growing season, are fabulous. Readers will find Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs that capture the purest essence of site, the most important attribute I look for in vineyard-designate wines. The Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvée Cathleen is without question one of the wines of the vintage.
2023 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 94.5

Drinking window: 2027 - 2033

Tasting notes: The 2023 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard is laced with apricot, dried herbs, chamomile and light tropical inflections. I find the reductive note here overpowering. It will be interesting to see what time brings. Tasted again after a decanting and 24 hours of air, the 2023 fills out nicely, softening some of the reductive edge. I find the Hyde to be a bit of a question mark, as its balance is on the razor's edge. It's a 50/50 bet as to whether that reduction will dissipate or get stronger over time. There is something that is so alluring about the 2023, but readers need to know what to expect. 

Producer Commentary:
This is a stellar set of wines from Kistler and winemaker Jason Kesner. What impresses me most, though, is how Kesner has gently moved the wines towards a more contemporary style over the last several vintages without drastically changing the house style.

I first started visiting the winery about 15 years ago. Back then, my tastings were with Steve Kistler, business partner the late Mark Bixler and a timid Jason Kesner in the background. Working with a highly influential and iconic mentor is never easy. It’s something I have a great deal of personal experience with. In those days, Kistler was painfully shy and probably already thinking about his future. Bixler was more open and engaging, but always with a quiet and gentle demeanor. I got to know Kistler better when he took me to see his first vineyard, the site on Moon Mountain known internally as Nelligan Road, on several occasions when I was researching our map. It’s a ranch that holds special significance, as the Kistler family lived on the property and made wine there in the early days. Sadly, those buildings were severely damaged in the 2020 fires. At one point, Kesner told me I had spent more time on that ranch with Kistler than he had. I have no doubt that is true.

Since then, Kesner has gradually shaped the wines into a style that emphasizes a bit more freshness and tension than in the past. He has done that while keeping all the Kistler signatures pretty much in place. That’s a very rare skill. The 2023s, wines from a long, cold growing season, are fabulous. Readers will find Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs that capture the purest essence of site, the most important attribute I look for in vineyard-designate wines. The Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvée Cathleen is without question one of the wines of the vintage.
2023 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 96.0

Drinking window: 2026 - 2033

Tasting notes: The 2023 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard is classic Hudson. Silky, layered and light on its feet, the 2023 is a winner. Lemon confit, white flowers, chalk, mint, white pepper and herbs all grace this super-expressive Chardonnay from Kistler. All the elements are so well balanced. Superb. And so distinctive. For readers who want to know what Hudson is all about, this is it. 

Producer Commentary:
This is a stellar set of wines from Kistler and winemaker Jason Kesner. What impresses me most, though, is how Kesner has gently moved the wines towards a more contemporary style over the last several vintages without drastically changing the house style.

I first started visiting the winery about 15 years ago. Back then, my tastings were with Steve Kistler, business partner the late Mark Bixler and a timid Jason Kesner in the background. Working with a highly influential and iconic mentor is never easy. It’s something I have a great deal of personal experience with. In those days, Kistler was painfully shy and probably already thinking about his future. Bixler was more open and engaging, but always with a quiet and gentle demeanor. I got to know Kistler better when he took me to see his first vineyard, the site on Moon Mountain known internally as Nelligan Road, on several occasions when I was researching our map. It’s a ranch that holds special significance, as the Kistler family lived on the property and made wine there in the early days. Sadly, those buildings were severely damaged in the 2020 fires. At one point, Kesner told me I had spent more time on that ranch with Kistler than he had. I have no doubt that is true.

Since then, Kesner has gradually shaped the wines into a style that emphasizes a bit more freshness and tension than in the past. He has done that while keeping all the Kistler signatures pretty much in place. That’s a very rare skill. The 2023s, wines from a long, cold growing season, are fabulous. Readers will find Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs that capture the purest essence of site, the most important attribute I look for in vineyard-designate wines. The Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvée Cathleen is without question one of the wines of the vintage.
2023 Chardonnay Dutton Ranch
Color: White

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 2026 - 2033

Tasting notes: The 2023 Chardonnay Dutton Ranch is a gorgeous, open-knit offering. The Dutton is one of the most approachable wines in this range. Soft contours wrap around a core of apricot, dried flowers, chamomile, spice, hazelnut and spice. Light tropical inflections and subtle mineral underpinnings extend the effortless, gracious finish. The 2023 is an especially fine Dutton Ranch. If I owned all the 2023s, the Dutton is the wine I would open first. 

Producer Commentary:
This is a stellar set of wines from Kistler and winemaker Jason Kesner. What impresses me most, though, is how Kesner has gently moved the wines towards a more contemporary style over the last several vintages without drastically changing the house style.

I first started visiting the winery about 15 years ago. Back then, my tastings were with Steve Kistler, business partner the late Mark Bixler and a timid Jason Kesner in the background. Working with a highly influential and iconic mentor is never easy. It’s something I have a great deal of personal experience with. In those days, Kistler was painfully shy and probably already thinking about his future. Bixler was more open and engaging, but always with a quiet and gentle demeanor. I got to know Kistler better when he took me to see his first vineyard, the site on Moon Mountain known internally as Nelligan Road, on several occasions when I was researching our map. It’s a ranch that holds special significance, as the Kistler family lived on the property and made wine there in the early days. Sadly, those buildings were severely damaged in the 2020 fires. At one point, Kesner told me I had spent more time on that ranch with Kistler than he had. I have no doubt that is true.

Since then, Kesner has gradually shaped the wines into a style that emphasizes a bit more freshness and tension than in the past. He has done that while keeping all the Kistler signatures pretty much in place. That’s a very rare skill. The 2023s, wines from a long, cold growing season, are fabulous. Readers will find Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs that capture the purest essence of site, the most important attribute I look for in vineyard-designate wines. The Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvée Cathleen is without question one of the wines of the vintage.
2023 Chardonnay Trenton Roadhouse
Color: White

Score: 96.0

Drinking window: 2026 - 2033

Tasting notes: The 2023 Chardonnay Trenton Roadhouse is another super-impressive wine in this range from Kistler. Aromatic and light on its feet, the 2023 is attractive for with its gracious, poised personality. Citrus, white flowers, chalk, slate and dried herbs lend nuance to this decidedly translucent, ethereal Chardonnay. The Trenton Roadhouse is all about subtlety.

Producer Commentary:
This is a stellar set of wines from Kistler and winemaker Jason Kesner. What impresses me most, though, is how Kesner has gently moved the wines towards a more contemporary style over the last several vintages without drastically changing the house style.

I first started visiting the winery about 15 years ago. Back then, my tastings were with Steve Kistler, business partner the late Mark Bixler and a timid Jason Kesner in the background. Working with a highly influential and iconic mentor is never easy. It’s something I have a great deal of personal experience with. In those days, Kistler was painfully shy and probably already thinking about his future. Bixler was more open and engaging, but always with a quiet and gentle demeanor. I got to know Kistler better when he took me to see his first vineyard, the site on Moon Mountain known internally as Nelligan Road, on several occasions when I was researching our map. It’s a ranch that holds special significance, as the Kistler family lived on the property and made wine there in the early days. Sadly, those buildings were severely damaged in the 2020 fires. At one point, Kesner told me I had spent more time on that ranch with Kistler than he had. I have no doubt that is true.

Since then, Kesner has gradually shaped the wines into a style that emphasizes a bit more freshness and tension than in the past. He has done that while keeping all the Kistler signatures pretty much in place. That’s a very rare skill. The 2023s, wines from a long, cold growing season, are fabulous. Readers will find Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs that capture the purest essence of site, the most important attribute I look for in vineyard-designate wines. The Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvée Cathleen is without question one of the wines of the vintage.
2023 Chardonnay Stock Ranch
Color: White

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 2027 - 2033

Tasting notes: The 2023 Chardonnay Stock Ranch is once again very pretty and expressive. In this cool, late-ripening vintage, Stock Ranch might not be the most favored site in the lineup. Citrus peel, chalk, slate, mint and dried herbs are all laced together. I especially admire the wine's energy, even if the overall impression is of a rather lithe, nervy Chardonnay that very much reflects the style of a year marked by fog, cold weather and a long, extended harvest. 

Producer Commentary:
This is a stellar set of wines from Kistler and winemaker Jason Kesner. What impresses me most, though, is how Kesner has gently moved the wines towards a more contemporary style over the last several vintages without drastically changing the house style.

I first started visiting the winery about 15 years ago. Back then, my tastings were with Steve Kistler, business partner the late Mark Bixler and a timid Jason Kesner in the background. Working with a highly influential and iconic mentor is never easy. It’s something I have a great deal of personal experience with. In those days, Kistler was painfully shy and probably already thinking about his future. Bixler was more open and engaging, but always with a quiet and gentle demeanor. I got to know Kistler better when he took me to see his first vineyard, the site on Moon Mountain known internally as Nelligan Road, on several occasions when I was researching our map. It’s a ranch that holds special significance, as the Kistler family lived on the property and made wine there in the early days. Sadly, those buildings were severely damaged in the 2020 fires. At one point, Kesner told me I had spent more time on that ranch with Kistler than he had. I have no doubt that is true.

Since then, Kesner has gradually shaped the wines into a style that emphasizes a bit more freshness and tension than in the past. He has done that while keeping all the Kistler signatures pretty much in place. That’s a very rare skill. The 2023s, wines from a long, cold growing season, are fabulous. Readers will find Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs that capture the purest essence of site, the most important attribute I look for in vineyard-designate wines. The Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvée Cathleen is without question one of the wines of the vintage.
2023 Chardonnay Vine Hill Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 2026 - 2033

Tasting notes: The 2023 Chardonnay Vine Hill Vineyard is another super-appealing wine in this range. Orange blossom, apricot, chamomile, baked apple tart and a kiss of French oak all meld together. Resonant and open-knit, the 2023 will be impossible to resist on release. A late leafing on the southern side of the vineyard was a great call in helping the fruit make it over the finish line. 

Producer Commentary:
This is a stellar set of wines from Kistler and winemaker Jason Kesner. What impresses me most, though, is how Kesner has gently moved the wines towards a more contemporary style over the last several vintages without drastically changing the house style.

I first started visiting the winery about 15 years ago. Back then, my tastings were with Steve Kistler, business partner the late Mark Bixler and a timid Jason Kesner in the background. Working with a highly influential and iconic mentor is never easy. It’s something I have a great deal of personal experience with. In those days, Kistler was painfully shy and probably already thinking about his future. Bixler was more open and engaging, but always with a quiet and gentle demeanor. I got to know Kistler better when he took me to see his first vineyard, the site on Moon Mountain known internally as Nelligan Road, on several occasions when I was researching our map. It’s a ranch that holds special significance, as the Kistler family lived on the property and made wine there in the early days. Sadly, those buildings were severely damaged in the 2020 fires. At one point, Kesner told me I had spent more time on that ranch with Kistler than he had. I have no doubt that is true.

Since then, Kesner has gradually shaped the wines into a style that emphasizes a bit more freshness and tension than in the past. He has done that while keeping all the Kistler signatures pretty much in place. That’s a very rare skill. The 2023s, wines from a long, cold growing season, are fabulous. Readers will find Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs that capture the purest essence of site, the most important attribute I look for in vineyard-designate wines. The Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvée Cathleen is without question one of the wines of the vintage.
2023 Chardonnay Laguna Ridge
Color: White

Score: 97.0

Drinking window: 2028 - 2035

Tasting notes: The 2023 Chardonnay Laguna Ridge is superb. The magnum format certainly plays a role. Readers will find a vertical, explosive Chardonnay endowed with impressive energy. Crushed rocks, slate, salt and dried flowers lift a core of chiseled citrus fruit. This vibrant, nervy Chardonnay should start to flesh out nicely with a few years in bottle. 

Producer Commentary:
This is a stellar set of wines from Kistler and winemaker Jason Kesner. What impresses me most, though, is how Kesner has gently moved the wines towards a more contemporary style over the last several vintages without drastically changing the house style.

I first started visiting the winery about 15 years ago. Back then, my tastings were with Steve Kistler, business partner the late Mark Bixler and a timid Jason Kesner in the background. Working with a highly influential and iconic mentor is never easy. It’s something I have a great deal of personal experience with. In those days, Kistler was painfully shy and probably already thinking about his future. Bixler was more open and engaging, but always with a quiet and gentle demeanor. I got to know Kistler better when he took me to see his first vineyard, the site on Moon Mountain known internally as Nelligan Road, on several occasions when I was researching our map. It’s a ranch that holds special significance, as the Kistler family lived on the property and made wine there in the early days. Sadly, those buildings were severely damaged in the 2020 fires. At one point, Kesner told me I had spent more time on that ranch with Kistler than he had. I have no doubt that is true.

Since then, Kesner has gradually shaped the wines into a style that emphasizes a bit more freshness and tension than in the past. He has done that while keeping all the Kistler signatures pretty much in place. That’s a very rare skill. The 2023s, wines from a long, cold growing season, are fabulous. Readers will find Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs that capture the purest essence of site, the most important attribute I look for in vineyard-designate wines. The Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvée Cathleen is without question one of the wines of the vintage.
2023 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 97.0

Drinking window: 2028 - 2037

Tasting notes: The 2023 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard is so beguiling. Aromatic, layered and wonderfully detailed, the Kistler Vineyard Chardonnay is a standout. All the elements are well balanced. Dried herbs, chamomile, graphite and crushed flowers are some of the notes that start to emerge with a bit of time in the glass. The complexity and dynamic energy here are so palpable.

Producer Commentary:
This is a stellar set of wines from Kistler and winemaker Jason Kesner. What impresses me most, though, is how Kesner has gently moved the wines towards a more contemporary style over the last several vintages without drastically changing the house style.

I first started visiting the winery about 15 years ago. Back then, my tastings were with Steve Kistler, business partner the late Mark Bixler and a timid Jason Kesner in the background. Working with a highly influential and iconic mentor is never easy. It’s something I have a great deal of personal experience with. In those days, Kistler was painfully shy and probably already thinking about his future. Bixler was more open and engaging, but always with a quiet and gentle demeanor. I got to know Kistler better when he took me to see his first vineyard, the site on Moon Mountain known internally as Nelligan Road, on several occasions when I was researching our map. It’s a ranch that holds special significance, as the Kistler family lived on the property and made wine there in the early days. Sadly, those buildings were severely damaged in the 2020 fires. At one point, Kesner told me I had spent more time on that ranch with Kistler than he had. I have no doubt that is true.

Since then, Kesner has gradually shaped the wines into a style that emphasizes a bit more freshness and tension than in the past. He has done that while keeping all the Kistler signatures pretty much in place. That’s a very rare skill. The 2023s, wines from a long, cold growing season, are fabulous. Readers will find Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs that capture the purest essence of site, the most important attribute I look for in vineyard-designate wines. The Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvée Cathleen is without question one of the wines of the vintage.
2023 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvée Cathleen
Color: White

Score: 100.0

Drinking window: 2028 - 2037

Tasting notes: The 2023 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvée Cathleen is without question one of the wines of this great vintage. Iron, graphite, white pepper and dried herbs lead into a core of citrus fruit. This potent, structured Moon Mountain Chardonnay simply has it all, starting with a strong, assertive voice that is undeniable and impossible to resist. The 2023 needed a day to show all of its pedigree. It's a California version of Corton-Charlemagne. 

Producer Commentary:
This is a stellar set of wines from Kistler and winemaker Jason Kesner. What impresses me most, though, is how Kesner has gently moved the wines towards a more contemporary style over the last several vintages without drastically changing the house style.

I first started visiting the winery about 15 years ago. Back then, my tastings were with Steve Kistler, business partner the late Mark Bixler and a timid Jason Kesner in the background. Working with a highly influential and iconic mentor is never easy. It’s something I have a great deal of personal experience with. In those days, Kistler was painfully shy and probably already thinking about his future. Bixler was more open and engaging, but always with a quiet and gentle demeanor. I got to know Kistler better when he took me to see his first vineyard, the site on Moon Mountain known internally as Nelligan Road, on several occasions when I was researching our map. It’s a ranch that holds special significance, as the Kistler family lived on the property and made wine there in the early days. Sadly, those buildings were severely damaged in the 2020 fires. At one point, Kesner told me I had spent more time on that ranch with Kistler than he had. I have no doubt that is true.

Since then, Kesner has gradually shaped the wines into a style that emphasizes a bit more freshness and tension than in the past. He has done that while keeping all the Kistler signatures pretty much in place. That’s a very rare skill. The 2023s, wines from a long, cold growing season, are fabulous. Readers will find Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs that capture the purest essence of site, the most important attribute I look for in vineyard-designate wines. The Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvée Cathleen is without question one of the wines of the vintage.
2023 Pinot Noir Silver Belt Vineyard Cuvée Natalie
Color: Red

Score: 96.0

Drinking window: 2026 - 2035

Tasting notes: The 2023 Pinot Noir Silver Belt Vineyard Cuvée Natalie is gorgeous. Orange peel, sage, dried herbs and delicate earthy undertones play off a core of dark blue/purplish fruit. Blood orange and pomegranate accents lend brightness as the 2023 start to open in the glass. This mid-weight, beautifully delineated Pinot hits all the right notes. As always, the Silver Belt is a bit more savory in style than the Laguna Ridge.

Producer Commentary:
This is a stellar set of wines from Kistler and winemaker Jason Kesner. What impresses me most, though, is how Kesner has gently moved the wines towards a more contemporary style over the last several vintages without drastically changing the house style.

I first started visiting the winery about 15 years ago. Back then, my tastings were with Steve Kistler, business partner the late Mark Bixler and a timid Jason Kesner in the background. Working with a highly influential and iconic mentor is never easy. It’s something I have a great deal of personal experience with. In those days, Kistler was painfully shy and probably already thinking about his future. Bixler was more open and engaging, but always with a quiet and gentle demeanor. I got to know Kistler better when he took me to see his first vineyard, the site on Moon Mountain known internally as Nelligan Road, on several occasions when I was researching our map. It’s a ranch that holds special significance, as the Kistler family lived on the property and made wine there in the early days. Sadly, those buildings were severely damaged in the 2020 fires. At one point, Kesner told me I had spent more time on that ranch with Kistler than he had. I have no doubt that is true.

Since then, Kesner has gradually shaped the wines into a style that emphasizes a bit more freshness and tension than in the past. He has done that while keeping all the Kistler signatures pretty much in place. That’s a very rare skill. The 2023s, wines from a long, cold growing season, are fabulous. Readers will find Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs that capture the purest essence of site, the most important attribute I look for in vineyard-designate wines. The Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvée Cathleen is without question one of the wines of the vintage.
2023 Pinot Noir Laguna Ridge
Color: Red

Score: 98.0

Drinking window: 2026 - 2035

Tasting notes: The 2023 Pinot Noir Laguna Ridge brings together all the elements that make these wines so alluring, in the style that defines Kistler these days. Red fruits, blood orange, spice, menthol and rose petal soar from the glass. This vertical, mid-weight Pinot has so much to offer. I admire its poise and balance.

Producer Commentary:
This is a stellar set of wines from Kistler and winemaker Jason Kesner. What impresses me most, though, is how Kesner has gently moved the wines towards a more contemporary style over the last several vintages without drastically changing the house style.

I first started visiting the winery about 15 years ago. Back then, my tastings were with Steve Kistler, business partner the late Mark Bixler and a timid Jason Kesner in the background. Working with a highly influential and iconic mentor is never easy. It’s something I have a great deal of personal experience with. In those days, Kistler was painfully shy and probably already thinking about his future. Bixler was more open and engaging, but always with a quiet and gentle demeanor. I got to know Kistler better when he took me to see his first vineyard, the site on Moon Mountain known internally as Nelligan Road, on several occasions when I was researching our map. It’s a ranch that holds special significance, as the Kistler family lived on the property and made wine there in the early days. Sadly, those buildings were severely damaged in the 2020 fires. At one point, Kesner told me I had spent more time on that ranch with Kistler than he had. I have no doubt that is true.

Since then, Kesner has gradually shaped the wines into a style that emphasizes a bit more freshness and tension than in the past. He has done that while keeping all the Kistler signatures pretty much in place. That’s a very rare skill. The 2023s, wines from a long, cold growing season, are fabulous. Readers will find Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs that capture the purest essence of site, the most important attribute I look for in vineyard-designate wines. The Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvée Cathleen is without question one of the wines of the vintage.
2022 Chardonnay Sonoma Mountain
Color: White

Score: 91.0

Drinking window: 2024 - 2028

Tasting notes: The 2022 Chardonnay Sonoma Mountain is floral, delicate and charming, all qualities that make it a fine choice for drinking now and over the next few years. The Sonoma Mountain Chardonnay is mostly sold in restaurants, where its gracious, inviting personality is sure to offer considerable pleasure.

Producer Commentary:
This is a superb set of new releases from Kistler. Readers will find wines that express the essence of site, which, in my view, is always the most important attribute for vineyard-designate wines.

Longtime winemaker Jason Kesner describes the 2022 growing season as having had more rain than the year prior. Warm weather in the early part of the year led to an early bud break. The rest of the growing season was rather mild. Harvest began in mid-August, as was the case at many properties. Longtime Kistler fans should take note of the new Chardonnay Stock Ranch, which is terrific in its debut vintage. This year I also tasted the appellation bottlings, wines that are mostly directed at restaurants.
2023 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley)
Color: Red

Score: 91.0

Drinking window: 2025 - 2031

Tasting notes: The 2023 Pinot Noir Russian River Valley is an absolute delight. A burst of red-toned fruit, crushed flowers, mint and white pepper is so alluring. Delicate and medium in body, with lovely Russian River candied red berry fruit, the 2023 is simply exquisite. It’s a fabulous and delicious entry-level wine in this range.

Producer Commentary:
This is a stellar set of wines from Kistler and winemaker Jason Kesner. What impresses me most, though, is how Kesner has gently moved the wines towards a more contemporary style over the last several vintages without drastically changing the house style.

I first started visiting the winery about 15 years ago. Back then, my tastings were with Steve Kistler, business partner the late Mark Bixler and a timid Jason Kesner in the background. Working with a highly influential and iconic mentor is never easy. It’s something I have a great deal of personal experience with. In those days, Kistler was painfully shy and probably already thinking about his future. Bixler was more open and engaging, but always with a quiet and gentle demeanor. I got to know Kistler better when he took me to see his first vineyard, the site on Moon Mountain known internally as Nelligan Road, on several occasions when I was researching our map. It’s a ranch that holds special significance, as the Kistler family lived on the property and made wine there in the early days. Sadly, those buildings were severely damaged in the 2020 fires. At one point, Kesner told me I had spent more time on that ranch with Kistler than he had. I have no doubt that is true.

Since then, Kesner has gradually shaped the wines into a style that emphasizes a bit more freshness and tension than in the past. He has done that while keeping all the Kistler signatures pretty much in place. That’s a very rare skill. The 2023s, wines from a long, cold growing season, are fabulous. Readers will find Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs that capture the purest essence of site, the most important attribute I look for in vineyard-designate wines. The Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvée Cathleen is without question one of the wines of the vintage.
2023 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast)
Color: Red

Score: 92.0

Drinking window: 2025 - 2031

Tasting notes: The 2023 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast) is redolent of crushed flowers, dried herbs, red cherry fruit, blood orange and white pepper. Readers should expect a Pinot built on savory intensity and sinewy structure. The Sonoma Coast Pinot is very much a wine for the dinner table. There’s a lot to like here.

Producer Commentary:
This is a stellar set of wines from Kistler and winemaker Jason Kesner. What impresses me most, though, is how Kesner has gently moved the wines towards a more contemporary style over the last several vintages without drastically changing the house style.

I first started visiting the winery about 15 years ago. Back then, my tastings were with Steve Kistler, business partner the late Mark Bixler and a timid Jason Kesner in the background. Working with a highly influential and iconic mentor is never easy. It’s something I have a great deal of personal experience with. In those days, Kistler was painfully shy and probably already thinking about his future. Bixler was more open and engaging, but always with a quiet and gentle demeanor. I got to know Kistler better when he took me to see his first vineyard, the site on Moon Mountain known internally as Nelligan Road, on several occasions when I was researching our map. It’s a ranch that holds special significance, as the Kistler family lived on the property and made wine there in the early days. Sadly, those buildings were severely damaged in the 2020 fires. At one point, Kesner told me I had spent more time on that ranch with Kistler than he had. I have no doubt that is true.

Since then, Kesner has gradually shaped the wines into a style that emphasizes a bit more freshness and tension than in the past. He has done that while keeping all the Kistler signatures pretty much in place. That’s a very rare skill. The 2023s, wines from a long, cold growing season, are fabulous. Readers will find Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs that capture the purest essence of site, the most important attribute I look for in vineyard-designate wines. The Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvée Cathleen is without question one of the wines of the vintage.
2023 Chardonnay Les Noisetiers
Color: White

Score: 92.0

Drinking window: 2025 - 2031

Tasting notes: Kistler’s 2023 Chardonnay Les Noisetiers is rich and creamy in the glass, not to mention quite sophisticated. In this vintage, some of the nutty character (after which the wine is named) is more subtle than in past years. Lemon confit, white flowers and tangerine oil all grace the palate, building into an understated yet beautifully resonant finish. The 2023 is driven by strong citrus and floral inflections rather than the almond/hazelnut profile often found in this bottling.

Producer Commentary:
This is a stellar set of wines from Kistler and winemaker Jason Kesner. What impresses me most, though, is how Kesner has gently moved the wines towards a more contemporary style over the last several vintages without drastically changing the house style.

I first started visiting the winery about 15 years ago. Back then, my tastings were with Steve Kistler, business partner the late Mark Bixler and a timid Jason Kesner in the background. Working with a highly influential and iconic mentor is never easy. It’s something I have a great deal of personal experience with. In those days, Kistler was painfully shy and probably already thinking about his future. Bixler was more open and engaging, but always with a quiet and gentle demeanor. I got to know Kistler better when he took me to see his first vineyard, the site on Moon Mountain known internally as Nelligan Road, on several occasions when I was researching our map. It’s a ranch that holds special significance, as the Kistler family lived on the property and made wine there in the early days. Sadly, those buildings were severely damaged in the 2020 fires. At one point, Kesner told me I had spent more time on that ranch with Kistler than he had. I have no doubt that is true.

Since then, Kesner has gradually shaped the wines into a style that emphasizes a bit more freshness and tension than in the past. He has done that while keeping all the Kistler signatures pretty much in place. That’s a very rare skill. The 2023s, wines from a long, cold growing season, are fabulous. Readers will find Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs that capture the purest essence of site, the most important attribute I look for in vineyard-designate wines. The Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvée Cathleen is without question one of the wines of the vintage.
2023 Chardonnay Sonoma Mountain
Color: White

Score: 93.0

Drinking window: 2025 - 2033

Tasting notes: The 2023 Chardonnay Sonoma Mountain is one of the most distinctive wines in the Kistler range. It emerges from parcels at McCrea with reddish soils (parcels with whiter soils are used for the vineyard-designate). A wine of total class and sophistication, the 2023 is immediately seductive. Dried flowers, mint, chamomile, herbs, white pepper, citrus peel and subtle earthy undertones all take shape in the glass. The 2023 is especially fine. It approaches the quality of the vineyard-designates, making it something of a hidden gem in this broad portfolio.

Producer Commentary:
This is a stellar set of wines from Kistler and winemaker Jason Kesner. What impresses me most, though, is how Kesner has gently moved the wines towards a more contemporary style over the last several vintages without drastically changing the house style.

I first started visiting the winery about 15 years ago. Back then, my tastings were with Steve Kistler, business partner the late Mark Bixler and a timid Jason Kesner in the background. Working with a highly influential and iconic mentor is never easy. It’s something I have a great deal of personal experience with. In those days, Kistler was painfully shy and probably already thinking about his future. Bixler was more open and engaging, but always with a quiet and gentle demeanor. I got to know Kistler better when he took me to see his first vineyard, the site on Moon Mountain known internally as Nelligan Road, on several occasions when I was researching our map. It’s a ranch that holds special significance, as the Kistler family lived on the property and made wine there in the early days. Sadly, those buildings were severely damaged in the 2020 fires. At one point, Kesner told me I had spent more time on that ranch with Kistler than he had. I have no doubt that is true.

Since then, Kesner has gradually shaped the wines into a style that emphasizes a bit more freshness and tension than in the past. He has done that while keeping all the Kistler signatures pretty much in place. That’s a very rare skill. The 2023s, wines from a long, cold growing season, are fabulous. Readers will find Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs that capture the purest essence of site, the most important attribute I look for in vineyard-designate wines. The Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvée Cathleen is without question one of the wines of the vintage.
2024 Chardonnay Les Noisetiers
Color: White

Score: 92.0

Drinking window: 2026 - 2032

Tasting notes: The 2024 Chardonnay Les Noisetiers is a total delight. Aromatic and light on its feet, yet also quite expansive, the 2024 has a lot to offer. Citrus confit, hazelnut, white flowers, chamomile and lightly honeyed overtones are beautifully lifted in this super-expressive Chardonnay from various sites in the Russian River Valley.

Producer Commentary:
Kistler's 2024s are more than worthy follow-ups to the 2023s. On the heels of a very cold and late-ripening year, I was curious to see how the 2024s would show given the much warmer growing season. I was very impressed with what I tasted, specifically by how much site character comes through in the wines. That's not a given in warmer years, but it is a strong marker in these wines. This range is full of highlights. If there is one under-the-radar wine, it is the Sonoma Valley appellation Chardonnay, which is all fruit from McCrea. Élevage for the Pinot Noirs was nine months in barrel, while the Chardonnays were aged for eleven months in barrel and four in tank.
2024 Chardonnay (Sonoma Valley)
Color: White

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 2026 - 2034

Tasting notes: The 2024 Chardonnay (Sonoma Valley) is really a single-vineyard wine, all from some of the more generous blocks within McCrea. A wine of dimension and class, it offers up an exciting mix of dried orchard fruit, ash, gravel, incense, dried citrus peel, sage and white pepper. The complexity here is just unreal. If there is a hidden gem in the Kistler lineup, this is it!

Producer Commentary:
Kistler's 2024s are more than worthy follow-ups to the 2023s. On the heels of a very cold and late-ripening year, I was curious to see how the 2024s would show given the much warmer growing season. I was very impressed with what I tasted, specifically by how much site character comes through in the wines. That's not a given in warmer years, but it is a strong marker in these wines. This range is full of highlights. If there is one under-the-radar wine, it is the Sonoma Valley appellation Chardonnay, which is all fruit from McCrea. Élevage for the Pinot Noirs was nine months in barrel, while the Chardonnays were aged for eleven months in barrel and four in tank.
2024 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley)
Color: Red

Score: 91.0

Drinking window: 2026 - 2032

Tasting notes: The 2024 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley) is delicate and understated. Crushed red berry fruit, spice, new leather, cedar, mint and dried flowers are all laced together. The Russian River Pinot is a bit quiet in this vintage, but that works in its favor.

Producer Commentary:
Kistler's 2024s are more than worthy follow-ups to the 2023s. On the heels of a very cold and late-ripening year, I was curious to see how the 2024s would show given the much warmer growing season. I was very impressed with what I tasted, specifically by how much site character comes through in the wines. That's not a given in warmer years, but it is a strong marker in these wines. This range is full of highlights. If there is one under-the-radar wine, it is the Sonoma Valley appellation Chardonnay, which is all fruit from McCrea. Élevage for the Pinot Noirs was nine months in barrel, while the Chardonnays were aged for eleven months in barrel and four in tank.
2024 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast)
Color: Red

Score: 92.0

Drinking window: 2026 - 2032

Tasting notes: The 2024 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast) is a wine of uncommon elegance. Bright and sculpted, it offers up a lovely mix of red/purplish fruit, chalk, mint, white pepper and dried herbs. All of the energy and mineral-driven tension of the Sonoma Coast comes through in a Pinot that sizzles with saline-infused tension.

Producer Commentary:
Kistler's 2024s are more than worthy follow-ups to the 2023s. On the heels of a very cold and late-ripening year, I was curious to see how the 2024s would show given the much warmer growing season. I was very impressed with what I tasted, specifically by how much site character comes through in the wines. That's not a given in warmer years, but it is a strong marker in these wines. This range is full of highlights. If there is one under-the-radar wine, it is the Sonoma Valley appellation Chardonnay, which is all fruit from McCrea. Élevage for the Pinot Noirs was nine months in barrel, while the Chardonnays were aged for eleven months in barrel and four in tank.
2024 Chardonnay Mc Crea Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 2028 - 2036

Tasting notes: The 2024 Chardonnay McCrea Vineyard is elegant, gracious and light on its feet. This is one of the most refined wines I can remember tasting from this Sonoma Mountain site. Crushed flowers, citrus, mint, almond and white pepper develop in the glass. The 2024 is remarkably pure and crystalline. 

Producer Commentary:
Kistler's 2024s are more than worthy follow-ups to the 2023s. On the heels of a very cold and late-ripening year, I was curious to see how the 2024s would show given the much warmer growing season. I was very impressed with what I tasted, specifically by how much site character comes through in the wines. That's not a given in warmer years, but it is a strong marker in these wines. This range is full of highlights. If there is one under-the-radar wine, it is the Sonoma Valley appellation Chardonnay, which is all fruit from McCrea. Élevage for the Pinot Noirs was nine months in barrel, while the Chardonnays were aged for eleven months in barrel and four in tank.
2024 Chardonnay Stone Flat Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 2028 - 2036

Tasting notes: The 2024 Chardonnay Stone Flat Vineyard is dense, powerful and quite structured. Tangerine oil, pear, baked apple tart and light tropical notes abound. There's a bit more oak influence here, but it works well for the style of the wine. This is a decidedly extroverted Chardonnay.

Producer Commentary:
Kistler's 2024s are more than worthy follow-ups to the 2023s. On the heels of a very cold and late-ripening year, I was curious to see how the 2024s would show given the much warmer growing season. I was very impressed with what I tasted, specifically by how much site character comes through in the wines. That's not a given in warmer years, but it is a strong marker in these wines. This range is full of highlights. If there is one under-the-radar wine, it is the Sonoma Valley appellation Chardonnay, which is all fruit from McCrea. Élevage for the Pinot Noirs was nine months in barrel, while the Chardonnays were aged for eleven months in barrel and four in tank.
2024 Chardonnay Durell Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 2028 - 2036

Tasting notes: The 2024 Chardonnay Durell Vineyard offers a captivating mix of power and finesse. Citrus confit, marzipan, white flowers, mint, chalk and light tropical accents abound. The Durell is on the richer side, and yet the wine has the frame to handle all of that intensity without anything sticking out too much. 

Producer Commentary:
Kistler's 2024s are more than worthy follow-ups to the 2023s. On the heels of a very cold and late-ripening year, I was curious to see how the 2024s would show given the much warmer growing season. I was very impressed with what I tasted, specifically by how much site character comes through in the wines. That's not a given in warmer years, but it is a strong marker in these wines. This range is full of highlights. If there is one under-the-radar wine, it is the Sonoma Valley appellation Chardonnay, which is all fruit from McCrea. Élevage for the Pinot Noirs was nine months in barrel, while the Chardonnays were aged for eleven months in barrel and four in tank.
2024 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 96.0

Drinking window: 2028 - 2036

Tasting notes: The 2024 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard is complex, dynamic and layered. In other words, classic Hyde. Apricot, lemon confit, marzipan, white flowers and chalk open effortlessly. The Hyde is distinguished by its mid-palate richness and viscosity, and yet it is also quite vibrant and very fresh. The Hyde can occasionally be reduced, but the 2024 does not suffer from that at all.

Producer Commentary:
Kistler's 2024s are more than worthy follow-ups to the 2023s. On the heels of a very cold and late-ripening year, I was curious to see how the 2024s would show given the much warmer growing season. I was very impressed with what I tasted, specifically by how much site character comes through in the wines. That's not a given in warmer years, but it is a strong marker in these wines. This range is full of highlights. If there is one under-the-radar wine, it is the Sonoma Valley appellation Chardonnay, which is all fruit from McCrea. Élevage for the Pinot Noirs was nine months in barrel, while the Chardonnays were aged for eleven months in barrel and four in tank.
2024 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 96.0

Drinking window: 2028 - 2036

Tasting notes: The 2024 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard really shows off the richness of the year. Hudson can be quite reserved, but the 2024 leans into the more exotic, tropical end of the flavor spectrum. Apricot, peach, chamomile and light tropical overtones abound. There's gorgeous depth and plenty of palate presence, too. 

Producer Commentary:
Kistler's 2024s are more than worthy follow-ups to the 2023s. On the heels of a very cold and late-ripening year, I was curious to see how the 2024s would show given the much warmer growing season. I was very impressed with what I tasted, specifically by how much site character comes through in the wines. That's not a given in warmer years, but it is a strong marker in these wines. This range is full of highlights. If there is one under-the-radar wine, it is the Sonoma Valley appellation Chardonnay, which is all fruit from McCrea. Élevage for the Pinot Noirs was nine months in barrel, while the Chardonnays were aged for eleven months in barrel and four in tank.
2024 Chardonnay Dutton Ranch
Color: White

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 2028 - 2036

Tasting notes: The 2024 Chardonnay Dutton Ranch is one of the more restrained Chardonnays in the range. It offers notable aromatic presence and plenty of cut, but it also feels a bit tight texturally, especially on the mid-palate. It will be interesting to see if this fleshes out a bit with time in bottle. Citrus peel, lemon oil, hazelnut and white flowers linger.

Producer Commentary:
Kistler's 2024s are more than worthy follow-ups to the 2023s. On the heels of a very cold and late-ripening year, I was curious to see how the 2024s would show given the much warmer growing season. I was very impressed with what I tasted, specifically by how much site character comes through in the wines. That's not a given in warmer years, but it is a strong marker in these wines. This range is full of highlights. If there is one under-the-radar wine, it is the Sonoma Valley appellation Chardonnay, which is all fruit from McCrea. Élevage for the Pinot Noirs was nine months in barrel, while the Chardonnays were aged for eleven months in barrel and four in tank.
2024 Chardonnay Trenton Roadhouse
Color: White

Score: 94.0

Drinking window: 2028 - 2036

Tasting notes: The 2024 Chardonnay Trenton Roadhouse is another wine that shows the more extroverted style of the year. Orange confit, hazelnut, passion fruit and lightly honeyed notes build with a bit of coaxing. Readers will find an especially dense, voluptuous Chardonnay. I expect this will drink beautifully right out of the gate.

Producer Commentary:
Kistler's 2024s are more than worthy follow-ups to the 2023s. On the heels of a very cold and late-ripening year, I was curious to see how the 2024s would show given the much warmer growing season. I was very impressed with what I tasted, specifically by how much site character comes through in the wines. That's not a given in warmer years, but it is a strong marker in these wines. This range is full of highlights. If there is one under-the-radar wine, it is the Sonoma Valley appellation Chardonnay, which is all fruit from McCrea. Élevage for the Pinot Noirs was nine months in barrel, while the Chardonnays were aged for eleven months in barrel and four in tank.
2024 Chardonnay Vine Hill Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 96.0

Drinking window: 2028 - 2036

Tasting notes: The 2024 Chardonnay Vine Hill Vineyard is rich, dramatic and full of character. A broad, ample wine, the Vine Hill offers a beguiling mix of energy, power and finesse. Apricot, spice, baked apple tart, chamomile and floral-infused honey caress the palate. The powerful, intensely mineral finish is striking. This has real density, an almost phenolic quality that is impossible to miss.

Producer Commentary:
Kistler's 2024s are more than worthy follow-ups to the 2023s. On the heels of a very cold and late-ripening year, I was curious to see how the 2024s would show given the much warmer growing season. I was very impressed with what I tasted, specifically by how much site character comes through in the wines. That's not a given in warmer years, but it is a strong marker in these wines. This range is full of highlights. If there is one under-the-radar wine, it is the Sonoma Valley appellation Chardonnay, which is all fruit from McCrea. Élevage for the Pinot Noirs was nine months in barrel, while the Chardonnays were aged for eleven months in barrel and four in tank.
2024 Chardonnay Laguna Ridge
Color: White

Score: 96.5

Drinking window: 2028 - 2039

Tasting notes: The 2024 Chardonnay Laguna Ridge is one of the most reticent wines in the lineup. Then again, it is bottled only in magnum, which amplifies that impression in the early going. Apricot, pear, white flowers and slate open gradually. A potent, broad Chardonnay, the Laguna Ridge has a ton to offer, but it needs considerable cellaring. 

Producer Commentary:
Kistler's 2024s are more than worthy follow-ups to the 2023s. On the heels of a very cold and late-ripening year, I was curious to see how the 2024s would show given the much warmer growing season. I was very impressed with what I tasted, specifically by how much site character comes through in the wines. That's not a given in warmer years, but it is a strong marker in these wines. This range is full of highlights. If there is one under-the-radar wine, it is the Sonoma Valley appellation Chardonnay, which is all fruit from McCrea. Élevage for the Pinot Noirs was nine months in barrel, while the Chardonnays were aged for eleven months in barrel and four in tank.
2024 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard
Color: White

Score: 97.0

Drinking window: 2028 - 2039

Tasting notes: The 2024 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard shows why Moon Mountain is such a special place. Tasted next to the other Chardonnays in the range, the Kistler Vineyard is complex, dynamic and wonderfully understated. There's just so much going on in the glass. Fruit sits more in the middle and into the background, while a whole range of floral, savory and mineral overtones are quite prominent. This is a very special wine. 

Producer Commentary:
Kistler's 2024s are more than worthy follow-ups to the 2023s. On the heels of a very cold and late-ripening year, I was curious to see how the 2024s would show given the much warmer growing season. I was very impressed with what I tasted, specifically by how much site character comes through in the wines. That's not a given in warmer years, but it is a strong marker in these wines. This range is full of highlights. If there is one under-the-radar wine, it is the Sonoma Valley appellation Chardonnay, which is all fruit from McCrea. Élevage for the Pinot Noirs was nine months in barrel, while the Chardonnays were aged for eleven months in barrel and four in tank.
2024 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvée Cathleen
Color: White

Score: 98.0

Drinking window: 2028 - 2039

Tasting notes: The 2024 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvée Cathleen emerges from a tenderloin of vineyards with the only western exposure on the estate. Rich and powerful, the Cuvée Cathleen has so much to offer. Readers will find a powerful, structured mountain Chardonnay that almost feels like a red wine. It's one of the most distinctive and special Chardonnays in the United States. 

Producer Commentary:
Kistler's 2024s are more than worthy follow-ups to the 2023s. On the heels of a very cold and late-ripening year, I was curious to see how the 2024s would show given the much warmer growing season. I was very impressed with what I tasted, specifically by how much site character comes through in the wines. That's not a given in warmer years, but it is a strong marker in these wines. This range is full of highlights. If there is one under-the-radar wine, it is the Sonoma Valley appellation Chardonnay, which is all fruit from McCrea. Élevage for the Pinot Noirs was nine months in barrel, while the Chardonnays were aged for eleven months in barrel and four in tank.
2024 Pinot Noir Silver Belt Vineyard Cuvée Natalie
Color: Red

Score: 95.0

Drinking window: 2028 - 2036

Tasting notes: The 2024 Pinot Noir Silver Belt Vineyard Cuvée Natalie is such an elegant wine. A burst of sweet red/purplish fruit, rose petal, lavender, spice, tobacco and cedar makes a strong first impression. The fruit is especially vibrant and forward in 2024. It's a style that is hugely appealing. Medium in body, with lovely persistence, the 2024 is impeccable, not to mention incredibly delicious. Light savory and earthy undertones linger on the finale.

Producer Commentary:
Kistler's 2024s are more than worthy follow-ups to the 2023s. On the heels of a very cold and late-ripening year, I was curious to see how the 2024s would show given the much warmer growing season. I was very impressed with what I tasted, specifically by how much site character comes through in the wines. That's not a given in warmer years, but it is a strong marker in these wines. This range is full of highlights. If there is one under-the-radar wine, it is the Sonoma Valley appellation Chardonnay, which is all fruit from McCrea. Élevage for the Pinot Noirs was nine months in barrel, while the Chardonnays were aged for eleven months in barrel and four in tank.
2024 Pinot Noir Laguna Ridge
Color: Red

Score: 97.0

Drinking window: 2028 - 2036

Tasting notes: The 2024 Pinot Noir Laguna Ridge is fabulous. Rich and explosive in the glass, the Laguna Ridge is seriously impressive. Rich red-toned fruit, pomegranate, lavender, cassis and spice fill out the layers. The 2024 possesses striking mid-palate pliancy to match its racy, opulent personality. Soft, silky contours wrap it all together. Superb.

Producer Commentary:
Kistler's 2024s are more than worthy follow-ups to the 2023s. On the heels of a very cold and late-ripening year, I was curious to see how the 2024s would show given the much warmer growing season. I was very impressed with what I tasted, specifically by how much site character comes through in the wines. That's not a given in warmer years, but it is a strong marker in these wines. This range is full of highlights. If there is one under-the-radar wine, it is the Sonoma Valley appellation Chardonnay, which is all fruit from McCrea. Élevage for the Pinot Noirs was nine months in barrel, while the Chardonnays were aged for eleven months in barrel and four in tank.

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