2024: The Year In Review

BY NEAL MARTIN | DECEMBER 20, 2024 

“You need to slow down. You’re not getting any younger. Act your age.”

That sage advice was dispatched from the sensible part of my cerebral membrane as the final curtain came down on frenetic 2023. That sage advice was ignored. I packed more into a single year than many do in a decade, a bit like those old Benny Hill skits where the comedian is chased by a tittering pack of girls, as they apparently did in the mid-1970s. In the words of that great philosopher, Lionel Ritchie…can’t slow down.

A cocktail of vocation, Vinous Icon events, curiosity, wanderlust, an unquenchable joy in meeting friends old and new, an unshakable carpe diem attitude, fitness, energy and an inability to say no meant that a year slipped past in a week, like Christopher Nolan’s "Inception" but in reverse, and with more wine.

In Asakasa at the famous temple in Tokyo. I lost those bloody sunglasses in Burgundy.

Apart from numerous stints in Bordeaux and Burgundy, to the point where my instinct is to drive on the right-hand side of the road, I traveled to Amsterdam, New York, Bangkok, Washington DC, Tokyo, Stellenbosch, Hong Kong, Taipei, Hanoi and Miami. Of course, it is not just the destinations but the people you meet along the way that make a peripatetic life worth living. Countless dinners litter the year, a crisscross of verticals and horizontal tastings, blind and sighted, plus obligatory vino on the rare evenings home. That is irrelevant if you do not put as much effort into turning experiences into words. To that end, I published 106 articles on Vinous in 2024.

A cursory glance at the diary confirms that 2025 will dish out more of the same, and that is the way I want it. For this year’s review, I have used the same template that broaches wine, food, music and culture. Hope you enjoy…

My Likes in 2024…

Brother’s Isan wedding in Thailand (see below).

The Rest is Entertainment podcast with Richard Osman and Marina Hyde.

Youngest daughter’s maiden wine dinner. Wine #1?  1999 Grands-Echézeaux from DRC.

Barbour coat—still going strong. Can’t live without it.

Watching the Northern Lights. No UFO, disappointingly.

Vinous Icons. Particularly meeting subscribers. Looking forward to more in 2025.

Meeting fellow Vinous colleagues in the Big Apple and finding we speak the same language…wine.

Record fairs. My therapy. Like fishing. But you can’t listen to a trout.

Statins. They keep me alive, which is always handy.

Sticky mango rice.

iPad with Logitech keyboard. How many words are written on that gear each year?

ParkRun—Ran my 5K in Washington DC, Tokyo, Franschhoek, Amsterdam and various venues around the UK. Think you can do without exercise? You’re wrong.

The weak Japanese Yen that made visiting this wonderful country so flippin’ cheap.

My Pro-Ject VC-S3 Vinyl Cleaner that buffed up my beer-stained Techno 12-inches.

The Neopolitan Quartet by Elena Ferrante.

Peace—what is left of it.

Watching my indefatigable 83-year-old aunt dance to Blue Monday at my cousin’s wedding.

Lili et Gabrielle.

Lunch with football legend Gary Lineker. Entertaining.

Legendary footballer Gary Lineker. I was visiting a friend for what we dubbed a “Wine & Vinyl” evening, hence posing with Joe Smooth’s classic “Promised Land” just to add to the surrealism.

My Dislikes in 2024…

France still banning ParkRun due to bureaucracy. You can rebuild Notre-Dame but cannot run around a park?

Pineapples and bananas.

Score inflation. I am not 100 points on that.

Sommeliers limited to natural wines only.

Journalists limited to natural wines only.

Restaurant wine lists limited to natural wines only.

Sitting on a long-haul flight and every film is from the Marvel Comic Universe. It’s just like going to a restaurant and finding the wine list…oh, already mentioned that.

Colds. Dear winemakers, if you have a rotten cold but are determined come hell or high water to present your wines, please stay in bed and ask someone else to pour. My immune system is not the strongest. Odds are that I will catch your sniffles, and that has grave consequences for my job, and for your fellow winemakers whose appointments are canceled.

Boiler breaking down due to inept plumber’s handiwork ten years ago.

Scratched records. The equivalent of…

…corked wine. Specifically, minor TCA, so that you get an infuriating glimpse of what you are missing.

People that use the plural “vinyls.” Like saying “mices” or “sheeps.”

War. What is it good for? Absolutely nothing. Except World War II.

Gardening. Give yourself 30 minutes, and three hours later, you are still weeding.

Slugs.

Month By Month

January—The year revved up with the flotilla of Burgundy tastings in London and a couple of attendant raucous Paulées that set the tone of the year. The annual Southwold blind tasting, now in its 274th year, shone the spotlight on the 2020s. A weekend in Amsterdam promoting The Complete Bordeaux Vintage Guide was a hoot—a vibrant and beautiful city. The highlight was not just the wine but jogging from my hotel to the Schiphol ParkRun via empty canals and bridges as the rising sun rose, painting the sky pastel hues. Plus, at that time of day, cannabis does not clog the air.

Three Memorable Bottles: 1938 Côte-Rôtie – Paul Jaboulet Aîné, 2015 Bourgogne Aligoté Sous Chatelet – Domaine d’Auvenay, 2014 Pinot Noir – Thomas (Dundee Hills)

February—The month kicked off the first of two 2014 Bordeaux retrospectives. Then, a trip to my home turf to visit Danbury Ridge Winery. Essex—the home of tacky nightclubs, jellied eel and top terroir. A weekend in Bath was great fun, immediately followed by 1988 and 1989 Bordeaux dinners, after which I returned to the United States for the inaugural Vinous Icons event in New York. Vinous reviewers assembled in the flesh for the first time. I harbor fond memories of gathering for an impromptu sloppy pizza both in Manhattan and the size of Manhattan. The Bordeaux dinner at Legacy Records was one of my favorites of the year, even if I had to politely turn down an offer of karaoke afterward. That does not imply I will say no next time.

Three Memorable Bottles: 1974 Cabernet Sauvignon Martha’s Vineyard – Heitz, 1988 Le Pin, 2022 Chardonnay – Giaconda Estate

Nicolas Greinacher and Anne Krebiehl MW demolishing a sloppy pizza in Manhattan. Keepin’ it real.

March—This is when the year starts to go bonkers. Every sunrise promised something new and exciting, whether it was my first lunch at Bouchon Racine, The Smile playing at Hammersmith Empire or a birthday dinner at the wonderful Lumière. After a week in Beaujolais marveling at all things Gamay, there was just 24-hours chez moi before jetting off to Thailand for my brother’s wedding (see All Things Food). It was a magical week, a reminder that wealth does not mean happiness. I look forward to returning, not least after discovering Thailand’s vibrant wine scene.

Three Memorable Bottles: 1999 Côte-Rôtie – Domaine Jamet, 2022 Régnié – Domaine de Romarand, 1950 Mouton-Rothschild

April—Like the last 25 years, April was devoted to Bordeaux primeur. With promises of big price reductions, châteaux awaited consumers to flock back waving their checkbooks. Unfortunately, said châteaux did not realize it was for Taylor Swift tickets rather than their 2023s. Maybe they should have offered front row seats with every order? The flush of early releases meant a rapid turnaround for my primeur report, so I was frantically crossing i’s and dotting t’s a mere 24 hours after the final tasting. Highlights of the trip included the annual blind dinner at Domaine de Chevalier (where bottles proffered by guests always unearth the weird and wonderful), the Académie du Vin knees-up, and several verticals that still need to be written up.

Three Memorable Bottles: 1924 Domaine de Chevalier, 1930 KWV Muscadel Bin 14 Late Bottled Vintage (South Africa), 1934 Yquem

May—There was barely time to recover from Bordeaux before I was back Stateside to emcee for the American Heart Association. It was great to meet some old friends and raise $$$$, even if the calorific menu must have given cardiac surgeons overtime work. A week in Savigny-lès-Beaune for Burgfest featuring the 2020 whites proved to be a pleasant surprise.

Three Memorable Bottles: 1924 Chassagne-Montrachet Rouge – Bouchard Père, XXXXXX (redacted, as it does not officially exist…yet), 2000 Montrachet Grand Cru – Domaine Marc Colin

Entering one of the grand banquets in Washington DC in aid of the America Heart Association, this outlaw pictured in a Wanted poster looked familiar.

June—The month began down in Brighton to celebrate my cousin’s half-century orbiting the sun, a rare moment of sunshine and dancing to the wee small hours. Then, to Etikhove for the once-in-a-lifetime VCC vertical (see below) before one week each in Mâconnais and Chablis, the latter doing its best to keep calm and carry on amidst a torrid season. Both coincided with rare spells of clement weather. Mid-June, I found myself in the maelstrom of the mosh pit at Teen Mortgage’s gig, though this involved cheap beer rather than pre-war Pomerol.

Three Memorable Bottles: 2007 Brut Vintage – Egly-Ouriet, 1923 Vieux Château Certan, 1935 Richebourg Vieilles Vignes Française – Domaine de la Romanée-Conti

A bit of downtime in Brighton with people I used to get up to all sorts of unpublishable trouble in my halcyon teenage days.

July—From this month until Christmas, I was Jack Kerouac: on the road. It began with two weeks in Japan, or more accurately, at Disc Union in Shinjuku hunting vinyl. The excursion to Hokkaido was wonderful…and cooler. Here, I ate the most unusual dish that will ever appear on any Vinous Table, but you’ll have to wait for that. I was back for just three days before I was digging out the battered passport to head south to…

Three Memorable Bottles: 1985 Prefillossero – Lisini, 1961 Lafleur, 1994 Chardonnay Reserve Sanford & Benedict – Au Bon Climat

August—…South Africa. A dozen intensive days’ tasting down in the Cape highlighted an array of stunning wines from all categories. There was an unusual air of optimism in a country that faces more challenges than most—I hope it lasts. Returning to this Sceptred Isle, I managed to fit in two Proms (see below), an in-store gig by the brilliant Say She She and the annual Grouse Club lunch back at Bouchon Racine with a clutch of vintage Latour courtesy of Lord Bruce. The best moment in August? My equanimous daughter’s sunbeams of delight after achieving top marks in the fiendishly difficult UCAT exam. All that work paid off.

Three Memorable Bottles: 1964 Cabernet Sauvignon – Zonnebloem, NV Olerasay 4° – Mullineux, 1966 Latour

At the 33 1/3 record bar in Shibuya, Tokyo where you sip sake or whiskey listening to very cool music. It’s very…Murakami.

September—The month kicked off back in Burgundy for the second part of the Burgfest tasting, examining the 2020 reds. Twenty-four hours back home, then a fantastic trip to Hong Kong and Taiwan, plus a 24-hour jaunt to Vietnam to see my youngest bro and his new wife (see March). Hanoi’s traffic was insane. I hope the guy riding a moped with no lights, scrolling through his phone with a wardrobe tethered to the back, is still alive. A bevy of incredible wines were consumed in my annual Far East jaunt. I was back just a week before a return to Bordeaux to taste the first tranche of 2022s in bottle, as well as a superb Beychevelle dinner spanning over a century.

Five Memorable Bottles: 1905 Beychevelle, 1921 Cheval Blanc, 1947 La Conseillante, 1953 Mouton-Rothschild, 1986 Blanc de Blancs Comte de Champagne – Taittinger (en magnum)

Friends gathered at Mudan, a tempura restaurant in Taipei, for a wonderful Burgundy tasting. Penciled in for a Vinous Table next year.

October—Another stint in Bordeaux, a quick and very enjoyable 1985 Bordeaux dinner before decamping down to Beaune for several weeks, tasting over 2,500 Burgundy 2023s in barrel. I enjoyed my first weekend in the city of Lyon checking out a couple of Bouchon Lyonnais and Les Halles Paul Bocuse. Otherwise, I was simply driving up and down the RN74 with Pinot-stained gums, trying to be on time for my next appointment.

Three Memorable Bottles: 1985 La Conseillante, 1972 Monthélie – Domaine Jacques Parent, 1972 Châteauneuf-du-Pape – Domaine de la Solitude

November—Most of the month, I was in Burgundy, although this time I flew directly to Miami for the second Vinous Icons event. I look forward to returning. The month ended with a splendid old bottle chez HRH Jancis (where my presumed undrinkable 1956 Pape Clément almost stole wine of the night) and a clutch of astonishing Ports from Raby Castle.

Four Memorable Bottles: 1931 Vintage Port – Quinta do Noval, 1923 Beaune Clos de la Mousse – Bouchard Père, 1808 “SS” Sercial Madeira, 1978 Vosne-Romanée Cros Parantoux 1er Cru – Domaine Henri Jayer

December—At the time of writing, this month is barely days old. I’ve already had a couple of astonishing lunches and spent a week in Bordeaux tasting 2022s in bottle. I am still savoring a recent 1947 Vieux Château Certan, the wine that kicked off the year in Amsterdam.

Three Memorable Bottles: 1921 Gruaud Larose, 1992 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru – Domaine Coche-Dury, 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon – Philip Togni Vineyard

All Things Wine

Who knows what saintly act I did in my previous life that entitled me to imbibe such a treasure trove of fine wine. Doubtlessly, I will pay for it in the next. Over my career, it has allowed me to accumulate a library of vinous experiences, all diligently recorded in various articles and books. That amounts to a lot of wine. This is only possible with the generosity of many friends around the world. Drinking history, wines that have aged over time, is a profound act, one regrettably denied far more wine-lovers today compared to when this young muppet started out. That said, you must take my word that I glean just as much joy tasting young affordable wines and discovering new names. I cherish trips to Beaujolais, Mâconnais and South Africa as much as any grand wine dinner. That constant contrast is imperative to keep your feet on the ground and remind yourself that, in many cases, the only difference between the two is not the quality, but the amount you pay.

Wine of the Year—1961 Trotanoy

I tasted many bona fide legends in 2024. If I must choose one, then it is the magnum of 1961 Trotanoy opened by a munificent friend from Minneapolis. Over the years, I had encountered three or four compromised/faulty bottles that gave a glimpse of what this Pomerol can be. Finally, this was perfect in every way, shape and form. A true 100-point bottle, drunk, not sipped. 

Affordable Wine of the Year—2022 Régnié – Domaine de Romaran

My discovery of the year. I loved the Beaujolais wines from Greek winemaker Anastasia Kritikou. You will too.

Tasting of the Year—Vieux Château Certan 1923-2020

The two-day Vieux Château Certan vertical marking 100 years of ownership by the Thienpont family was a once-in-a-lifetime event that lived up to expectations. In particular, the lesser vintages like 1936, 1940 and 1946 were as fascinating as the legends. Factor in perfect provenance, such a vital aspect in a tasting of wines this old and often faked, and this was an unrepeatable experience. The feedback received from the resulting 6,000-word article was a pertinent reminder that there is an appreciative audience for heavily researched and creative pieces in the hyperactive soundbite world of social media.

Unusual Bottles

As the years pass, I am increasingly interested in lesser vintages. The more derided the reputation, the better. They often give much more pleasure than their reputation would have you believe. Amongst the esoterica this year: 

1901 Mouton-Rothschild

1915 Beychevelle

1919 Château Margaux

1924 Chassagne-Montrachet Rouge – Bouchard Père

1936 Vieux Château Certan

1940 Cheval Blanc

1942 Palmer

1944 Yquem

1954 Carbonnieux Blanc

1956 Pape Clément

1961 Sancerre Clos de la Pousse – Crochet-Magrez

1963 Volnay Caillerets Ancienne Cuvée Carnot 1er Cru – Bouchard Père

1972 Monthélie – Domaine Jacques Parent

1985 Bourgogne Aligoté – Domaine Guy Roulot (pictured below)

2022 Grillo – Sadie Family Wines

A Vietnamese white in Hanoi that I am not convinced was 100% Vitis vinifera

All Things Food

Restaurant of the Year

Not a restaurant, but rather, a particular meal that took place in north Thailand around an hour’s drive from the city of Khon Kaen. With my youngest daughter in tow, we journeyed across several datelines for my youngest brother’s nuptials. He had promised that it would be something to remember, and in that respect, he was not wrong. The traditional Isan wedding began at 7:30am, although we were late because the local taxi driver was unaware of the existence of the remote rural village, Ban Lao Si Chiang Nuea. As forewarned, we were assigned duties by the elders. We gathered at the far end, daughter holding a cushion carrying the rings and myself, the dowry, wads of notes. Behind us, a Thai band began to play hypnotic traditional Thai music, and with gigantic palm leaves shading us from the morning sun, we set off down the street, the entire village dancing on their doorsteps and hollering congratulations.

Ready to troop down to the wedding ceremony accompanied by a local Thai band.

In front of the entire community, my brother completed his challenges, which included answering questions from village elders, singing a song in Thai and ten press-ups to confirm he is physically up to the job. This was followed by the incomprehensible readings and rituals, including sacred wrist-tying and a “bed ceremony.” I did not inquire about that one. The entire community gathered under a makeshift tarpaulin for food, still barely past 9am. The community had spent two days foraging local ingredients, grinding spices and preparing dishes, best described as nose-to-tail eating, Thai style. The cost to feed an entire village was probably half of what was shelled out at your average London dinner. It was delectable, despite one gentleman vomiting in front of me after too much free-flowing beer.

“Who is he?” I asked.

“Oh, he’s our head of police,” my sister-in-law replied.

I have no idea what was in this Thai soup, but it was absolutely delicious…and spicy. 

I will mention a dozen or so restaurants that I really savored in 2024, in alphabetical order:

Akoko (London)—My introduction to West African cuisine.

Bouchon Racine (London)—Hard to get a seat, but do persevere. It is worth it.

Bui-Bui (Bordeaux)—Taiwanese cuisine. And the list!

Caffe Cuisine (Branne)—A perfect getaway bistro over on the Right Bank.

Cornus (London)—Opening of the year. Two sensational dinners so far and counting.

Dysart at Petersham (Richmond)—Punches well above its weight.

Emilia (Bangkok)—Delicious Italian cuisine in the middle of a Bangkok shopping mall.

La Lune (Beaune)—Never disappoints despite visiting repeatedly. Au revoir Julien!

Le Lion d’Or (Arcins)—Old-school French cuisine.

Lumière (Cheltenham)—Everything you want from a Michelin-starred restaurant.

La Petite Colombe (Franschhoek)—Intricacy and theatre, Capeland style.

Moritaya (Tokyo)—Sukiyaki restaurant par excellence with awe-inspiring views.

Mudan (Taipei)—Tempura is taken to dazzling heights at this Michelin-starred restaurant.

Oka (Kõfu)—Heavenly seven-seater local omakase.  

Sorrel (Dorking)—You need a great chef a taxi ride away from home. I have Steve Drake.

Zoldering (Amsterdam)—Fabulous list. Fabulous cooking. Relaxed vibes.

Worst Restaurant of the Year: Harvester—Shoeburyness

I gritted my teeth. I drove to Shoeburyness, perched at the end of the Thames Estuary, for my 10-year-old nephew’s birthday. To say the lad is a fussy eater is an understatement, and so Cornus was off the list. Honestly, I tried to enjoy the experience. I desperately searched my plate for positives… Erm…the service was excellent. There was a salad bar. However, the dish of indeterminate taxonomic origin was cooked until no taste remained, and my digestive system felt sullied afterward. I vowed: never again. My nephew loved it, and that is what matters at the end of the day.

All Things Musical 

Album of the Year—“Teen Mortgage” – Teen Mortgage

This is actually a compendium of the Washington DC duo’s EPs that you need to listen to LOUD! It’s a blistering attack of two-minute punk songs that compel you to pogo around the room. Their sound has an undefinable edge, coiled-up tension and simmering aggression. They remind me of Nirvana in the sense that you cannot work out how two musicians can make such a wall of noise. I am not predicting world domination or Swift-like global tours, but winemaker Richard Rottiers in Beaujolais gave them his seal of approval.

The following also pleased my ears…

Iechyd Da—Bill Ryder-Jones

Cutouts—The Smile

This Ain’t the Way You Go Out—Lucy Rose

Ensoulment—The The

Mahashmashana—Father John Misty

Patterns On Repeat—Laura Marling

Cosmos Giants—Janki Nilovic/JJ Whitefield/Igor Zhukovsky

Songs of a Lost World—The Cure

Come Ahead—Primal Scream

Romance—Fontaines D.C.

Nobody Loves You More—Kim Deal

Loophole—Michael Head & the Red Elastic Band

Lives Outgrown—Beth Gibbons

A Dream Is All We Know—The Lemon Twigs

One More Thing—Lime Garden

Sadness Set Me Free—Gruff Rhys

Nonetheless—Pet Shop Boys

Song of the Year—“Good Luck, Babe” – Chappell Roan

A perfect pop song. As soon as I heard the career-making “Good Luck, Babe” on the radio, I knew it was going to be MASSIVE. Like all great pop songs, it is full of hooks, features a strong vocal performance (check out the live version on Jimmy Fallon) and is laden with pathos, hurt and defiance.

The following also pleased my ears…

“May Ninth”—Khruangbin

“Mary Boone”—Vampire Weekend

“Joy”—Nick Cave and the Bad Seeds

“Exposed to Some Light”—Nightbus

“Lunch”—Billie Eilish

“Like I Say (I runaway)”—Nilüfer Yanya

“Starburster”—Fontaines DC

“Girl, so confusing”—Charli XCX feat. Lorde

“Wristwatch”—MJ Lenderman

“Mahashmashana”—Father John Misty

“Feral”—Fickle Friends

“4AM”—Biig Piig

Gig of the Year: Prom 46 – Holst’s The Planets/”Doctor” – Teen Mortgage

Classical music! It is not all bangin’ pop or grimy punk. I used to listen to Holst’s The Planets at my nan’s house every Saturday morning and had always wanted to see it played live. The Royal Albert Hall is always a thrill to visit. Our seats were directly behind the percussionists so that I felt as if I were part of the orchestra rather than the audience. In fact, two orchestras combined for this Prom: The Royal College of Music Symphony Orchestra and the Sibelius Academy Symphony Orchestra, plus the Royal College of Music Chamber Choir. Like the rest of the packed house, I was swept away by the music, especially the stirring crescendo in “Mercury” that almost brought me to tears. That is my joint favorite musical live moment… The other is the aforementioned Teen Mortgage causing mayhem during “Doctor” at Brighton’s dingy Green Door Store. Yeah, I have a wide taste in music.

View from our seats at the Royal Albert Hall as the orchestras finished the suite of The Planets.

All Things Watched or Read

“Poor Things”—Yorgos Lanthimos’ gothic tale starring Emma Stone and Mark Ruffalo splits opinion. Some female friends argue that it is exploitative due to its explicit scenes and that protagonist Bella Baxtor’s insatiable sexual appetite might have been acceptable had a woman directed the film. Then again, art should be judged by what it is…Bella’s character is like that irrespective of the director’s gender. “Poor Things” goes out to push buttons, which is why two people walked out of the Barbican Cinema in disgust. What is undeniable is the astonishing cinematography, surrealist sets (and its steampunk aesthetic) and uproarious humor, not least the bizarre dance on board the steamboat. It does drag a little at the end, but otherwise, “Poor Things” is a riot for the senses, though not a film for prudes.

Also: “The Holdovers,” “Anora” and “Zone of Interest”

“Industry” (Season 3)—Given the proliferation of streaming channels dismantling terrestrial TV, how reassuring it is that the BBC aired “Industry” in the UK (HBO in the US). “Industry” is an antidote for the legions mourning the end of “Succession.” The first two series were excellent, but the third takes it to a higher level completely: exceptional acting by an ensemble cast, shock factor (particularly two moments in the final episode…if you know, you know), and a program that takes duplicity and backstabbing to new heights with counterbalancing pathos, all tied up in a multi-layered narrative and financial jargon that you pretend to understand. My only concern is whether a recently commissioned fourth series could be one too much? Let’s see if it can maintain the momentum and twists to keep viewers hooked.

Also: “Slow Horses” (Apple TV+), “Mr. Bates vs The Post Office” (BBC), “Rivals” (Disney+), “Baby Reindeer” (Netflix)

The Bee-Sting by Paul Murray—I picked up this 600-page book for five quid, something to read on a long-haul flight. By the end of page one, I realized that I was in the presence of an author with masterful use of language. The way that Murray interlocks the separate stories of one Irish family in this tragi-comedy is genius. One of the best books that I have read in the last decade.

© 2024, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism.

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