The Year in Review: 2025

BY ANTONIO GALLONI | DECEMBER 12, 2025

The end of the year is always a time of reflection. Two thousand-twenty has been a truly spectacular year, both personally and professionally. I have been blessed to have so many unforgettable experiences. I traveled more and worked harder than any year I can remember. Nevertheless, the balance of the scale in 2025 very much tips towards the positive. When I stop to take it all in, I can only summarize 2025 with one word: Gratitude.

First and foremost, I am grateful for our readers in more than 100 countries around the world. You set an incredibly high bar for us, which simply means that is your expectation of where we should be. We take that as a huge compliment.

I am also grateful to be surrounded by such a talented team of critics. I still read every article prior to publication and am consistently blown away by level of care and attention that goes into each and every report. Although I am obviously not impartial, I believe Neal, Eric, Joaquin, Angus, Rebecca, Anne, Nicolas and Billy are all doing their best work today. Because of their efforts, this year Vinous published more than 36,000 reviews and is now offers the largest library of fine wine reviews in the world.

While our reviewers get most of the attention, none of what we do would be possible without the office team led our Co-Founder James Forsyth. This small but mighty team has worked diligently throughout the year to make sure every detail is taken care of, from publishing to events, to everything in between. I would also like to acknowledge the contributions of those who have moved on after spending time with us.

These are some of the many highlights of 2025.

Tasting of the Year – Luciano Sandrone Vertical at Festa del Barolo

It’s next to impossible to narrow this down to one selection. I was very fortunate to attend and or organize many exceptional tastings in 2025. A complete vertical of Roederer Estate’s L’Ermitage is high up on my list, as are the two Littorai tastings I attended.

Several years in the making, our Luciano Sandrone Vertical at La Festa del Barolo was especially memorable. Luciano Sandrone was one of the first growers I met in Piedmont. My first visit was very hard to schedule, as the estate does not take many visitors. After many attempts, I was finally able to get an appointment. I had a corporate expat job in Milan at the time, but my direction was already heading towards wine. One winter day I decided to call in sick and go taste in Piedmont. I should add I hope my kids don’t read this. Anyway, I got up early and off I went. In those days I had a company car. Because the car belonged to the company, parking violations and any sort of speeding tickets were sent directly to the office. So I ventured to Barolo with great care, making sure to avoid various speed traps.

The new Sandrone winery was not clearly marked. I inadvertently drove past it, and ended up on a narrow, hillside road. At certain point the road was completely covered in snow and ice. I was sure my car would not make it all the way up. There was nowhere to turn around. I decided to gently go back down the hill in reverse. That proved to be ill-advised, as I hit a patch of black ice and promptly ended up in a ditch. At that point, images of an imminent firing rushed through my mind. I was sure my corporate career was over and that I would be dispatched back to the US in disgrace.

I called the winery to cancel my appointment. “Don’t worry about it, we will come get you. Where are you exactly?” was the reply. I breathed a sigh of relief as I wondered how extensive the damage was to the car. A few minutes a tractor arrived. Luciano Sandrone greeted me with a smile and apologized for having taken to so long to get to me. Along with one of his workers, Sandrone pulled my car out of the ditch. Miraculously, it was unscathed. That’s German engineering for you. We went back down to the winery and I had an amazing visit and tasting.

That was just the beginning. In the years that followed I had many memorable tastings with Sandrone, his brother Luca and daughter Barbara. They were always so eager to share their work, so generous with their time. I wasn’t writing anything, I was just an interested consumer. One of my favorite tastings was going through lots that comprise the Le Vigne Barolo, some of which don’t make it into the wine. Among those was a very singular, rich Barolo that was too overpowering for Le Vigne. Those were the early trials for what is now the Barolo Vite Talin, although I did not know that at the time.

Luciano Sandrone passed away in 2023 after several years of failing health. Our dinner was a fitting tribute to a long, brilliant career. In one generation, the Luciano Sandrone created a winery that has not only become iconic, but that is also one of the very few newer Piedmont domaines found in the cellars of passionate wine lovers who drink the finest wines in the world. Despite achieving notable critical and financial success, Sandrone remained rooted to the traditions of artisan Piedmontese farming and winemaking, as witnessed by rough-hewn hands shaped by work in the field and cellar.

Our tasting at Festa del Barolo brought back all the memories of so many visits to the winery. It’s impossible to choose favorites, as the lineup on this night was truly extraordinary.

An unforgettable tasting of Luciano Sandrone Barolos back to 1982.

Winery of the Year – Castello di Ama

Led by Lorenza Sebasti and Marco Pallanti, Castello di Ama has been a reference-point estate in Chianti Classico for several decades. Ama was among the first to bottle vineyard-designate Chianti Classico, and an early leader in elevating quality throughout the region. The wines have always been on the richer side texturally, which makes them quite appealing in the early going, but they have also proven to age exceptionally well. A quick look at our database shows several verticals, including a report on the 100% Merlot L’Apparita and another on the Chianti Classico Bellavista. In recent years, Pallanti has backed off extractions, started doing less saignée and reduced the impact of oak. The results are nothing short of breathtaking. I was blown away by the wines I tasted this past June during my annual visit. Every wine was so precise, so outstanding. Some were utterly profound. Even after all these years, Castello di Ama remains rooted in the values of passion, ambition and hard work that starts in the vineyard. Bravi!

Marco Pallanti, Lorenza Sebasti and Arturo Pallanti at Castello di Ama.

Winemaker of the Year – Maya Dalla Valle

Generational transition is the biggest challenge for family-owned businesses in any sector. It requires the young generation to have real interest, passion and a strong work ethic. At the same time, the older generation must be able to let go of control. That is never a given on either side, and it’s not a guarantee of success.

I have watched Maya Dalle Valle’s career progress for many years. She earned a B.A. in International Relations at University of Washington and followed that up with a Master’s Degree in Viticulture and Enology from Cornell University and a Master’s of Business and Science in Vineyard and Winery Management from the Institute of Agricultural Studies in Bordeaux. Maya was an occasional presence in my early tastings at her family’s estate, whenever she was in town between internships at Château Latour, Petrus and Ornellaia. In 2021, she was formally appointed Winemaker at Dalle Valle Vineyards while Winemaker Andy Erickson transitioned to more of a consulting role. Since then, she has built on the important foundation laid by Erickson in the preceding years.

I was so impressed with the 2023s I tasted at Dalla Valle this past fall. Maya Dalla Valle has done a tremendous job in giving her family’s wines a newfound sense of finesse. The wines here have long been outstanding, but they have also often been massively tannic and impenetrable in the early going. The 2023s, on the other hand, are marked by exceptionally polished tannins. A series of refinements in fermentation and changes in cooperage have had a significant and very positive impact on the wines that is evident in this range from top to bottom.

Maya and Naoko Dalla Valle in their small winery in Oakville during the 2025 harvest.

Emerging Producer to Watch – Far Mountain

Far Mountain is one of the most exciting new projects in California. Mai Errazuriz and Rodrigo Soto source from top sites in Sonoma Valley and Moon Mountain to craft distinctive wines imbued with strong old-school California influences. Errazuriz most recently was Marketing Director for Paul Hobbs, while Soto was the Estate Director at Quintessa. Both have recently left the stability of those jobs to pursue their own American dream at Far Mountain. Early efforts have shown great promise. Based on what I have tasted thus far, the best is yet to come. Readers who appreciate classically-inspired California wines will want to check out Far Mountain while it remains under the radar.

Mai Errazuriz and Rodrigo Soto craft gorgeous, old-school wines of place at Far Mountain.

Wine Destination of the Year – Piedmont, Italy

At some point over the summer, I just stopped and took at all in. Everywhere I turned I saw a new wine bar, a new restaurant of some sort. I have been visiting Piedmont regularly for nearly 30 years and have never seen such a rich and diverse dining scene. Visitors will find everything from simple wine bars, to places that specialize in the classics, to ambitious restaurants seeking stars, and everything in between. You could spend a week here, eat lunch and dinner out (which I do not advise for the waistline) and still not hit all the top spots. The breadth of choices within a relatively small area is just staggering. The accessibility of the wines relative to peers in other top regions, along with a vibrant dining scene, makes Piedmont one of the must-visit regions in the world for any serious food and wine lover.

Everyone has their favorites. These are some of mine. As much as I would like to be more comprehensive, a full guide of restaurants in Piedmont is close to a full-time job. My top choice right now for overall experience is Piero and Ugo Alciati’s Guido Ristorante in the historic Fontanafredda estate. The food, updated versions of the classics, is sublime. Tables are set far apart and service is terrific. Guido has the fairest wine markups in Piedmont. If you want to splurge on a special bottle, Guido is a great place to do it. But I also admire the selection of everyday wines. A young couple looking for a special night out without breaking the bank would do quite well at Guido ordering carefully and drinking a nice bottle of Barbera, Freisa or any other affordable wine on this list. Younger brother Andrea Alciati runs Guido da Costigliole in the Relais San Maurizio, one of the most magical places in all of Piedmont. It’s another of my favorites for classic cuisine, especially in the summer, when guests can enjoy Italian al fresco dining at its best.

Il Centro in Priocca is another favorite. Owners Elide Mollo and Enrico Cordero, along with their son, Giampiero, excel with old-school Piedmontese hospitality. Updated classics feature heavily, although some more traditional interpretations have started to come back, thanks to the prodding of a certain annoying regular. The list is deep in wines from both Piedmont and beyond, especially Burgundy. As much as I love the classics, when I want something a little different I head to Langotto in Novello, where Chef/Owner Otto Luca excels with creative dishes that are never overdone. And when it’s time for pizza (when is it not time for pizza?), I head to my latest discover, Fuoco Farina.

Tagliatelle with white truffles at Guido Ristorante, Serralunga d’Alba.

Meal of the Year – Hakuba, Cheval Blanc Hotel, Paris, France

I enjoyed many tremendous meals in 2025, but when it comes to the complete experience, one stands apart: dinner at Hakuba this past September. Hakuba, a partnership between Chefs Arnaud Donckele, Takuya Watanabe and Pastry Chef Maxime Frédéric, is located on the ground floor of the posh Cheval Blanc Hotel in Paris. Donckele and Frédéric also run Plénitude, Donckele’s three-star temple to sauces and French gastronomy just one floor above. A kaiseki menu is offered at €395 per person. There are just 38 seats arranged across four counters. Guests can choose from the extensive hotel wine list curated by Wine Director Emmanuel Cadieu or a selection that is culled out specifically to pair with the cuisine.

From the moment the door opens, the experience at Hakuba is incredibly relaxing. The hustle and bustle of Paris quickly becomes a distant memory. A quick succession of dishes appears, each better than the last. There’s some showmanship, some theater, in the way several courses are presented, but not at the expense of substance. It’s a phenomenal meal by any measure. Sommelier Christopher Eon immediately puts guests at ease, quite an achievement with an ambitious list at a restaurant of this level. I ordered Dauvissat's 2018 Chablis Les Preuses and then asked Eon to weave in some sakes, as we were curious to learn and know next to nothing about sake. He did a brilliant job, not just in his selections, but in elevating the entire dining experience. Exactly what a sommelier should do. It was a great evening all around. Unforgettable.

Time & Moments

Many years ago, a dear friend and mentor advised me to take trips with my children individually. He told me these would be great opportunities for bonding. He was right. I am very happy to pass along that little bit of wisdom for anyone who might find it useful. Of course, scheduling trips is easier said than done, given school and work schedules, but when I can, I always try to carve out a few days each year to spend with my kids one on one.

Earlier this year, Isabella and I spent a few days in London. We had an amazing time hitting all the sights and eating in some of city’s best spots. A reservation at Gymkhana was not in the cards, so we headed to sister restaurant Trishna, where enjoyed a spectacular lunch. We ordered too much, ate too much and had a great time. One of the things I admire about Trishna, beyond the food, is the wine suggestions for each dish. That’s not easy to do with Indian food.

A fabulous spread at Trishna, London.

Giulio and I spent a few days in Los Angeles for a screening of the new Mission Impossible movie. I have been invited to industry screenings for years, but I have never been able to go because of kids’ schedules and other scheduling commitments. This was the first time the stars aligned and we weren’t going to miss it. Our first stop in Los Angeles was Marino Ristorante, where we had a superb late dinner.

The next afternoon, we headed to the Paramount lot. Walking through a property that has been memorialized in so many movies was a surreal experience. One of our hosts made a brief speech before the screening started. He told us that Mission Impossible was almost not ready in time. Apparently, about a month before its widely anticipated debut, Tom Cruise decided some scenes needed to be re-recorded. The producers scrambled around London to find a studio that could fit a full symphonic orchestra with essentially no notice. The required music was re-recorded to Cruise’s satisfaction, and the film was completed at the last minute, on time. As much as we enjoyed the movie, what I will treasure most are the memories with my son—waking up at the crack of dawn to walk the Santa Monica pier, taking a ride in a self-driving Waymo and seeing some of the more iconic sights around town.

The new Mission Impossible movie delivered on the hype.

It is no secret that the wine world is going through a turbulent moment. Based on what I am seeing, I do not share the negative sentiment that seems so prevalent. Instead, I see a world full of opportunity. I hope that will be the theme for my report a year from now.

© 2025, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or redistributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism.

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