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The Dalmatian Vintage: Bordeaux 2023
France: Bordeaux, featured
, Apr 2024
The 2023 Bordeaux vintage is born in tumultuous times, at a pivotal moment for the region. When that is all stripped away, what do the wines offer in a growing season that swerved one way then another? The answer depends on which château you’re looking at.
Cellar Favorite: 1938 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Côte-Rôtie
Cellar Favorites, France: Rhône & Beaujolais, cellar favorite
, Apr 2024
When someone whispers into your ear, particularly my ear, that you will never drink this bottle again, the aforementioned ear perks up. The 1938 Côte-Rôtie from Paul Jaboulet Aîné had lived its entire life in a cool dank cellar over in the West Country, so factor in perfect provenance. Though the bottle states Jaboulet on the label, it is more accurate to look at this as an amalgamation of all the growers in Côte-Rôtie at the time since hardly any bottled themselves.
Vinous Table: Bouchon Racine, London, UK
Vinous Table, United Kingdom
, Apr 2024
Thanks to my connected friend, it had been a splendid evening at Bouchon Racine. I can now tick it off my list, though I would love to return. It is a restaurant that creates its own world, almost hermetically sealed off from the rest of London, so you soon forget you’re not actually in a riverside Lyon bistro but above a pub in central London.
Friuli-Venezia Giulia: Both Sides of the Spectrum
Italy: North, featured
, Apr 2024
Two successive warm and drought-filled years challenged winemakers in Friuli-Venezia Giulia, yet the 2021s and 2022s still offer plenty of pleasure. Readers will find many beautifully balanced yet sun-kissed wines. Unfortunately, others lack substance and come across as aromatically challenged, ripe and one-dimensional.
Oldies But Goldies: Bouchard Père 1892-2012
France: Burgundy, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured
, Apr 2024
Bouchard Père & Fils own one of the deepest Burgundy libraries of vintages back to the 19th century. This article recounts last November’s dinner when bottles with years ending in two stretching back through decades were opened.
But Seriously: Beaujolais 2021-2023
France: Rhône & Beaujolais, featured
, Apr 2024
Beaujolais is one of the most dynamic wine regions in France. This report looks at new releases that almost entirely represent outstanding value for money, growers on the rise and the sheer diversity that Beaujolais has to offer.
Cellar Favorite: 2016 Domaine de la Grange des Pères Vin de Pays de L'Herault
Cellar Favorites, France, cellar favorite
, Apr 2024
It must have been a decade ago when I attended a vertical of Domaine de la Grange des Pères in London. Then, it was revered as arguably Languedoc’s only true cult wine and, combined with its price tag, I was rather put off.
The Many Riojas of Rioja: A Tale of Forking Paths
Spain, featured
, Apr 2024
Rioja finds itself at a crossroads. Like many a great story, Rioja is being challenged by small and mid-size producers over its identity. A dynamic and fascinating scenario is unfolding as a result, reflected in the almost 800 bottles that make up this report. Certain producers' enthusiasm and stylistic exploration are inspiring amidst a general decline in sales, defining a wine landscape as diverse as it is attractive. Rioja is currently an adventure of contrasts and discoveries.
Vinous Table: The Progress, San Francisco, California
Vinous Table
, Apr 2024
This fabulous dinner was a nice break from my recent tastings of new releases from Sonoma. COVID-19 disrupted so many routines, including what used to be frequent trips to San Francisco. As readers know, the city has changed in recent years as it grapples with deep economic and social issues. Even so, San Francisco is a city I love.
Past Becomes Now: Lafite-Rothschild 1874-1982
Verticals & Retrospectives, France: Bordeaux, featured
, Apr 2024
Lafite-Rothschild can age for decades, but it can be a difficult wine to understand. This vertical stretches back to the 19th century and features some riveting examples of the First Growth and vintages that were reminders of how precarious it can be opening ancient Claret.