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A Century of…Fours
South Africa, featured, France: Burgundy, France: Bordeaux
, Jun 2024
Century of Fours examines vintages ending in four and adds historical context via a parallel timeline of the FA Cup Finals from 1904 to 2014. It is two journeys through time for the price of one.
Cellar Favorite: 1988 Robert Mondavi Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, United States: California
, Jun 2024
A vertical of Robert Mondavi Winery’s Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve back to the maiden vintage remains one of the best tastings I have ever participated in. It was one of the few occasions where guests refused to leave because the bottles were so good.
Vinous Table: Emilia, Bangkok, Thailand
Vinous Table, Thailand
, May 2024
This was a wonderful evening centered around some of the best Italian dishes I’ve eaten in a long while. Who knew that it would transpire, in all places, in Bangkok? We enjoyed a stellar array of wines, and more importantly, the guests really made it a memorable evening.
Cellar Favorite: 1947 Château Gilette Doux
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Burgundy
, May 2024
Château Gilette, located in the village of Preignac, is an unorthodox Sauternes estate that has furrowed its path for decades, eschewing the use of oak barrels to undertake extended élevages in concrete vats that can last up to 20 years. I’ve been lucky to experience a couple of extensive verticals over my career and composed a detailed standalone piece in my Wine-Journal days. My last visit was ten years ago, so I’m overdue a return.
The Bordeaux Soundtrack: Icons at Legacy Records
featured, France: Bordeaux
, May 2024
Music and wine are perfect partners, so what better venue to host the first Icons of Bordeaux dinner than Legacy Records in New York with four of the region’s leading winemakers?
Vinous Table: Luca, London, UK
Vinous Table, United Kingdom
, May 2024
Let’s cut to the chase. Luca boasts a thick, juicy book of Italian vino that covers the entire ‘boot’, a mixture of marquee names and cult producers that is worthy of entry alone. It’s not a treasure trove of unmissable bargains; to that end, I don’t want to give the false impression of some backwater bistro naively adding 10% to wines bought just after the war. (C’mon, we all dream of those.) Our lunch bill was punchy despite steering wallets clear of Super-Tuscans and blue-chip Barolos. But what you do get for your hard-earned money is some of the best Italian food the capital currently offers, together with a gorgeous wine, irrespective of budget, in a restaurant that is beloved by all who enter.
Cellar Favorite: 1994 Penfolds Grange and 1975 Bin 95 Grange Hermitage
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, Australia
, May 2024
During my time in Bordeaux tasting barrel samples, I spend most evenings essentially harvesting tasting notes for my annual “Centuries Of…” article that will appear in due course. Ironically, perhaps the best bottle of wine with a vintage ending in four was not from either the Left or Right Bank but from Australia.
Cellar Favorite: 1930 KWV Muscadel Bin 14 Late Bottled Vintage
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, South Africa
, May 2024
Ancient South African ports have a cult following, and though they are not cheap due to demand, they represent outstanding value compared to other wines.
Vinous Table: The Devonshire, London, UK
Vinous Table, United Kingdom
, May 2024
The Devonshire is not perfect, but it does things perfectly. It’s currently the place to be seen in London, and you’ll want to return—so will the rest of the world. It’s pub food taken to the nth degree. There’s no snootiness. There is a lot of noise and laughter. It’s hectic and perhaps teeters on chaos. You’ll love it.
Cellar Favorite: 1938 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Côte-Rôtie
France: Rhône & Beaujolais, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Apr 2024
When someone whispers into your ear, particularly my ear, that you will never drink this bottle again, the aforementioned ear perks up. The 1938 Côte-Rôtie from Paul Jaboulet Aîné had lived its entire life in a cool dank cellar over in the West Country, so factor in perfect provenance. Though the bottle states Jaboulet on the label, it is more accurate to look at this as an amalgamation of all the growers in Côte-Rôtie at the time since hardly any bottled themselves.