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Burgundy Focus 3: Mugnier’s Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses 1er Cru 2007-1980
France: Burgundy, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured
, May 2023
This unique vertical of Frédéric Mugnier’s Musigny Grand Cru offered a chance to examine one of Burgundy’s most sought-after wines back to vintages that predate his arrival. In this instance, going back through time was not unlike witnessing someone unlearning their skill and experience.
Burgundy Focus 2: Domaine Comte Armand Pommard Clos des Epeneaux 1er Cru 1945-2001
France: Burgundy, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured
, Apr 2023
A vertical of any Burgundy going back to 1945 is a special event. This highly anticipated retrospective of Domaine Comte Armand’s Pommard Clos des Epeneaux was a timely reminder that older is not necessarily better. In vino veritas, as they say.
Cellar Favorite: 1945 Domaine Henri Lamarche Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots 1er Cru
Cellar Favorites, France: Burgundy, cellar favorite
, Apr 2023
The reputation of a Burgundy domaine swings with the caliber of its wines. Certainly, under present winemaker Nicole Lamarche, the Lamarche wines are much more consistent and higher in quality than they were between the Seventies and Nineties when it is said that the aging Henri Lamarche spent insufficient time tending to his vines.
Burgundy Focus 1: Duroché’s Clos de Bèze Grand Cru 1988-2020
France: Burgundy, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured
, Apr 2023
This is the first of four Burgundy-themed articles focusing on a single wine. Burgundy verticals are uncommon and almost impossible to repeat. Therefore, it would be remiss of me not to publish them as bite-size standalone pieces for future reference.
Myth Over Matter: Mature Burgundy 1920-2019
France: Burgundy, featured
, Mar 2023
This companion piece to January’s Bordeaux article cleans my cupboard of tasting notes stretching over a century. Few experiences compare to mature Burgundy at full flight, and while not every bottle prompted choirs of hallelujahs…one or two did.
Domaine de la Romanée-Conti 2020 & The New Burgundy
France: Burgundy, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured
, Mar 2023
This year’s presentation of the new releases from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti marked the beginning of a new chapter. It was the first time new Co-Managers Perrine Fenal and Bertrand de Villaine presented the wines following the retirement of Aubert de Villaine.
Money Well Spent: Domaine de L’Arlot: 1959-2019
France: Burgundy, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured
, Mar 2023
A few months ago, winemaker Géraldine Godot flew over to London to present a fascinating tasting of recent vintages from Domaine de L’Arlot in Nuits-Saint-Georges, including a rare vertical of their Romanée-Saint-Vivant.
Plus Ça Change: DRC 2020 in Bottle
France: Burgundy, featured
, Feb 2023
The 2020s are the latest bottle vintage from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti to hit the market. The annual tasting in London is a unique chance to compare terroirs and see what magic has been conjured.
Burgundy 2021: The Market
France: Burgundy, featured
, Jan 2023
This opinion piece was originally composed as part of my 2021 Burgundy report. Given the escalation of prices in recent years, here, I discuss what is fueling this inflation, its potential consequences and trends I have seen with respect to Burgundy’s distribution.
Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021
France: Burgundy, featured
, Jan 2023
Apart from devastating black frost, snow, stunted vine growth, mud, mildew, oïdium, rot, localised hail, difficulties recruiting pickers, erroneous weather forecasts, tiny yields and problems filling vats, the 2021 growing season went swimmingly well in the Côte d’Or. Welcome to the most frustrating, convoluted, brilliant, disappointing, vexing, motley, inspiring, distasteful, delicious, remarkable vintage in recent years.