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Chianti Classico: Riding Out the Storm
featured, Italy: Tuscany
, Jul 2025
After an extraordinary vintage in 2021, producers in Chianti Classico faced two much more stressful growing seasons in 2022 and 2023. Those who were able to cope with those challenges turned out beautiful wines, but there is no getting past the simple fact that quality is inconsistent across the board. Even so, there is plenty to explore in this year’s new releases, ranging from wines from estates that handled the whims of Mother Nature to newer small projects and those that have made important strides in improving quality.
A Bit of Fortification: Port and Madeira New Releases
Portugal, Fortified Wines & Spirits, Fortified Wines and Spirits, featured
, Jul 2025
Fortified wine has long been a passion of mine. This short article rounds up recent releases from Quinta do Noval, Symington and Taylor Fladgate Port Houses, as well as recent Madeira bottlings from Blandy’s.
Cellar Favorite: 1990 Guy de Barjac Cornas
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France
, Jul 2025
Stick me on a desert island with a choice of one Rhône wine, and I would choose Cornas. I love this appellation, especially when a mature bottle crops up.
High Highs: Santa Lucia Highlands 2023
United States: California, featured
, Jul 2025
Nestled into a narrow, 18-mile stretch to the south of Monterey Bay, the Santa Lucia Highlands is one of the most consistent and consistently under-the-radar winegrowing regions in the United States. A long, even-tempered growing season in 2023 blessed winemakers with the opportunity to ascend to astonishing heights. And ascend they did.
Sicily Excels Despite Mother Nature's Wrath: The 2022 and 2023 Vintages
Italy: Center & South, featured
, Jul 2025
Sicily continues to impress with a surge of dynamic new projects and the emergence of spectacular, previously unexplored terroirs across the island’s mountainous interior, all while offering wines of unbeatable value.
Cellar Favorite: 1952 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée-Conti Grand Cru
France: Burgundy, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, featured
, Jun 2025
1952 was a significant vintage: it marked the return of the Romanée-Conti cuvée after the monopole’s ungrafted vines were pulled out following the 1945 harvest. It was a complete privilege to drink this extraordinarily rare piece of history.
Vinous Table: Marea, New York, USA
Vinous Table
, Jun 2025
It’s hard to get to the top, but it’s even harder to stay there. Sixteen years after it opened in 2009, Marea remains one of New York City’s most vital food and wine destinations. Judging by packed rooms on several recent visits, that’s a view shared by many. Food, wine and service are as exceptional as they have ever been, something that was evident on the three recent dinners that inform this article.
Paso Robles 2022 and 2023: Polar Opposites
United States: California, featured
, Jun 2025
Paso Robles is carving out its place as a premier wine region, proving its adaptability in the face of recent vintages. While the 2022 growing season presented unique challenges that are reflected in the wines, the exceptionally promising 2023s highlight Paso’s flexibility and diversity.
Duero: From Ribera to Toro via Rueda (And a Few Other Detours)
featured, Spain
, Jun 2025
The wines of the Duero region—a diverse area shaped by a harsh climate—have earned a reputation as some of Spain’s finest. Journeying through the 600-plus wines reviewed in this report, I tour the region and share my interpretation of Ribera del Duero, the beating heart of Castilla y León.
Cellar Favorite: 2000 Noël Verset Cornas
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Rhône & Beaujolais
, Jun 2025
A recent bottle of the 2000 Cornas was a pertinent reminder of how Noël Verset’s wines can bring such joy.