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Umbria: Taking It to the Next Level
Italy: Center & South, featured
, Nov 2022
Umbrian wines have always communicated tremendous potential; however, except for a short list of producers, these wines have often been underwhelming. I have long looked forward to the day the region would begin to deliver the best quality possible. That day may be just over the horizon.
Cellar Favorite: 1943 Petrus
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Bordeaux
, Nov 2022
In my continuing and futile attempt to drink every Petrus of the 20th century, I ticked off one of the lesser-known war vintages this summer. Incidentally, it was served blind, and though I identified the château, I was quite a few years out on the vintage. Maybe even decades!
Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018
France: Burgundy, featured
, Nov 2022
So, the 2018 Burgundy vintage was too warm to bestow tensile Chardonnay and transparent Pinot Noirs, yes? Well, not exactly. I tasted more than 400 whites and reds blind at the annual Burgfest to see how the vintage is shaping up. Expect the unexpected!
Cellar Favorite: 1993 Domaine Jean Grivot Nuits Saint-Georges Les Roncières
France: Burgundy, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Nov 2022
This bottle of 1993 Nuits Saint-Georges Les Roncières 1er Cru was ‘magpied’ off a list in Beaune, one of the few bottles whose umbilical had not been cut within the last three years.
The Vinous 2022 Holiday Gift Guide
General Interest, featured
, Nov 2022
With the holidays right around the corner, we’ve you covered for that perfect gift for the wine lover in your life. The Vinous Holiday Gift Guide is packed with the year's most intriguing books, glassware, openers, maps and more.
Vinous Table: Wild Flor, Brighton, UK
Vinous Table, United Kingdom
, Nov 2022
Wild Flor is an outstanding addition to Brighton’s dining scene. After years of coasting, Brighton is finally waking up to the fact that it can coexist with the proliferation of casual gastropubs and vegan eateries. It was refreshing to see a serious, thoughtful wine list whose accumulative costs are probably a little more than that 1996 Chambertin! I cannot wait to return.
The Unrealized Potential of Marche
Italy: Center & South, featured
, Nov 2022
Overall quality in Marche has never been higher. However, my feeling is that many producers have yet to fully realize the potential of this diverse region. I often left my tastings this year wondering what red and white varieties might be able to achieve here.
Clonakilla Shiraz Viognier 1994-2021
Australia, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured
, Nov 2022
Rules are made to be broken. In the rich landscape of Australian Shiraz, Clonakilla was the original maverick, pioneering cool climate Shiraz Viognier blends in an unlikely new wine region. Serendipitous plantings of Viognier and travels to Domaine Guigal lit a spark that has grown into an unexpected, runaway success that has helped to redefine Australian Shiraz. This vertical tasting of the Clonakilla Shiraz Viognier celebrated the winery’s 50th birthday and showcased a wine with unique finesse and longevity.
Cellar Favorite: 1996 Domaine Robert Denogent Pouilly-Fuissé Les Carrons Vieilles Vignes
France: Burgundy, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Nov 2022
A few months back, I reported on a cluster of old Pouilly-Fuissés from Château de Beauregard that attested to their under-appreciated longevity. Here is another bottle that was bright as a daisy when opened in Beaune as a pre-prandial wake-me-up.
Vinous Table: Eike, Stellenbosch, South Africa
Vinous Table, South Africa
, Nov 2022
Eike lived up to expectations – the food was just delicious and exhibited just the right amount of flair whilst keeping it “real”.