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Book Excerpt: A Brief History of Napa Valley, Part 1
featured, United States: California
, Apr 2016
Driving through Napa Valley today, it’s hard to imagine that anything other than grapes was ever grown here. Even to those august few who remember a time when plum and walnut trees outnumbered vines, it seems the distant and hazy recollection of a dream. This valley craves the grape, and since its introduction in 1838 that natural affinity has been obvious to anyone who paid attention.
Old Vines, Deep Roots: Calistoga's Frediani Family
featured, United States: California
, Mar 2016
“There aren’t too many old farming families like us around anymore,” Jim Frediani told me as we bounced and bumped along the vine rows in his small vineyard truck. We had just left the house of his uncle Alfred, whose cache of old vines, duct tape hat and straight shooting attitude are the stuff of legend.
Tuscany’s Mysterious Self-Making Vin Santo
featured, Italy: Tuscany, Fellowship
, Mar 2016
Up until recently Vin Santo was a rather modest beverage, kept by its producers to share among their friends, rarely ever seeking a place on commercial shelves. Today, Tuscany opens its doors to the rest of the world to taste its treasured sweet wine.
Vinous Table: Formento’s, Chicago
Vinous Table
, Feb 2016
On a recent trip to Chicago to promote my book I hosted old Napa wine dinner at Formento’s in the Fulton Market District. Sommelier Steve Morgan and I selected a handful of beautiful wines that represented several decades of Napa Valley winemaking.
Vinous Table: Restaurang AG, Stockholm, Sweden
Vinous Table
, Feb 2016
This past fall, I spent the better part of a month driving across Northern Europe for the first leg of my book tour. I ate incredibly well throughout, but one of my most memorable meals was at Restaurang AG in Stockholm.
On Music and Wine
featured, Fellowship
, Feb 2016
At a recent masterclass, mezzo-soprano Stephanie Blythe explained that a singer, much like a wine drinker, must explore the way the text feels on the palate. Awestruck by this notion, Bryce Wiatrak, Vinous Fellowship winner for 2015, was inspired to explore the commonalities and joy of music and wine.
Grower Profile – Ulises Valdez
featured, United States: California
, Sep 2015
Ulises Valdez’s compact frame leaned against his dusty white pickup truck. I expected to talk as we walked through the vineyard, but Valdez launched into his autobiography before I was even out of the car. “You want to hear my story?” he asked, eyes twinkling, “here we go.”
Austria 2013
featured, Austria
, Sep 2015
I found growers in high sprits when discussing their 2013s. After extremely low yields in both 2012 and 2010 caused commercial difficulties for many estates, the more bountiful 2013 also brought relief in terms of production levels. Given that 2014 will again be very short in volume and largely mediocre in quality, consumers should carefully scout the available selection of 2013s at their local wine shops in order to buy the best bottles while they are still to be found.
Vinous Table: Ava Gene’s, Portland, OR
Vinous Table
, Sep 2015
On a recent trip to Oregon my meal at Ava Gene’s stood out as a true highlight. Executive chef Joshua McFadden’s resume is long and star-studded, but he is perhaps best known for his stint as Chef de Cuisine of Brooklyn’s legendary Franny’s. There, as at Ava Gene’s, the vibe is casual but meticulous, while the food is an exciting take on familiar classics.
Dry Times in Napa Valley
featured, United States: California
, Sep 2015
When Christian Moueix founded Dominus in the early 1980s he predicated his investment on three conditions, and said “I require 20 years to make a great wine. And I can only do this with a property that does not require acidification or irrigation.”