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No Alarm: 2023 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti
featured, France: Burgundy
, Feb 2026
Despite a brief interruption from the fire alarm, it was business as usual as I entered the “classroom” to taste the 2023 releases from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti with “teachers” Bertrand de Villaine and Perrine Fenal. Which cuvées stood out this year?
Moon Mountain Bounces Back with the Exceptional 2023s
featured, United States: California, sonoma
, Feb 2026
The 2023s from Sonoma’s Moon Mountain District are exceptional. A long, cool growing season with no shock events gave producers ideal conditions to turn out intensely aromatic, layered, structured wines. That’s a far cry from 2022, when intense heat and drought challenged these sites severely to the degree that some selections were not bottled at all. Readers will delight in exploring the 2023s, wines that represent Moon Mountain at its very finest.
2024 Burgenland and Austria's East: Heavenly Reds and Crisp Whites
Austria, featured
, Feb 2026
The central and Eastern Austrian regions of Carnuntum, Thermenregion and Burgenland delivered beautifully crisp whites and evocative, precise reds in 2024. Neither spring frosts nor September rains were as severe as in Lower Austria along the Danube. Despite record heat, which spelled an unprecedentedly early harvest for some, there is no lack of freshness in the whites, while most reds took the heat in stride. Near Lake Neusiedl, clean and early botrytis arrived in late October, ensuring concentrated Ausbruch and TBAs.
Salt of the Earth: Voliero Brunello di Montalcino 2006-2021
Italy: Tuscany, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured
, Feb 2026
A true wine of place, crafted by a man who applied a lifetime of acquired knowledge to conceptualize its creation, the Voliero Brunello di Montalcino reflects the potential of Montalcino's Southern territory. This 15-vintage retrospective explores the story behind the wine and Andrea Cortoneise, who created it.
It’s Rousseau’Clock: Grand Crus 1967-2019
Verticals & Retrospectives, featured, France: Burgundy
, Feb 2026
It’s Rousseau’clock! An epic tasting of Rousseau’s Grand Crus last November provided valuable insight into their Clos de la Roche, Ruchottes and Charmes-Chambertin. Whilst market prices have escalated in recent years, what has not changed is the calibre of their wines.
Remembering Pierre Trimbach
featured, Vinous Remembers, France: Alsace
, Feb 2026
It was with sadness and disbelief that I learned of Pierre Trimbach’s death on January 31, 2026, at the age of 69. His legacy will endure in his long-lived, pure and brilliant wines.
Northern Rhône 2024: One Hill Rises
featured, France: Rhône & Beaujolais
, Jan 2026
In 2024, the Northern Rhône delivered Syrahs of striking aromatic typicity, anchored by a distinctive peppery profile reminiscent of past cooler vintages. This report examines how an exceptionally challenging growing season shaped both red and white wines across all eight appellations. After a final word on the in-bottle 2023 reds, I look ahead to the extremely low-yielding 2025 harvest and the potential addition of a new cru to the region.
Going to California: Sonoma’s 2024s & 2023s
featured, United States: California
, Jan 2026
January is always such an exciting time in Sonoma, heavy rains and flooding excepted. The promise of the new year lies ahead. Many estates are releasing their latest wines. This year’s new releases are mostly from 2024 and 2023, two strong back-to-back vintages that provide fascinating contrasts, as the growing seasons were diametrically opposite. The best wines from both vintages are superb.
The Marcassin Mystique
featured, United States: California
, Jan 2026
There are few wineries in the United States, or the world for that matter, with the level of mystique that surrounds Marcassin. “Have you heard anything about Marcassin?” I am asked regularly. “When is the next release?” inevitably follows. A recent visit and tasting provided some answers during a wide-ranging conversation that ran the gamut from wine to vineyards to jazz.
2022 Barolo: Half-Full or Half-Empty?
Italy: Piedmont, featured
, Jan 2026
Two thousand twenty-two is one of the most complicated vintages I have seen in the more than 25 years I have visited Piedmont on a regular basis. The 2022 Barolos are frustratingly erratic, wildly inconsistent wines, and yet some growers found a way to make the most out of the hand they were dealt by Mother Nature. It’s a vintage to approach with caution. There are some real gems in 2022, but they are very much the exceptions.