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Rocca di Montegrossi: Act Two
featured, Verticals & Retrospectives, Italy: Tuscany
, Feb 2026
This recent vertical was a terrific opportunity to revisit a number of older wines, essentially picking up where my 2018 article, “Rocca di Montegrossi: Chianti Classico Vigneto San Marcellino 1995–2013,” left off. From his first vintage in 1995, Marco Ricasoli-Firidolfi has crafted powerful yet elegant wines that capture the truest essence of this very special part of Chianti Classico.
2025 New Zealand White Wines: Pump Up the Volume
New Zealand, featured
, Feb 2026
New Zealand turned the volume knob to the right in 2025. Crops were large, tanks were filled up, and the season spoke loudly from the outset. Yet the cool opening notes of summer set a slower tempo, and not every vineyard kept pace as the year unfolded. As ever, it was those who adjusted the dial that got it right, managing yields and nutrition based on nature’s bounty.
The Landmark Vintage: 2006 Brunello di Montalcino Retrospective
featured, Italy: Tuscany
, Feb 2026
From one of the most heralded vintages in three decades, the 2006 Brunellos have now turned 20 years old. Do they live up to the initial lofty expectations?
The Fantastic Four: Alto Piemonte, Canavese, Valtellina & Valle d’Aosta
Italy: Piedmont, featured
, Feb 2026
My annual trip through northern Italy once again highlighted the extraordinary diversity of the stretch of tiny appellations often marked by heroic viticulture and rugged landscapes. Here at the foothills and lower slopes of the Alps, readers will find some of the most fascinating, complex wines in the world. This report focuses on Alto Piemonte and also looks at Nebbiolo and Nebbiolo-based wines in nearby appellations, including Canavese and Valtellina. For the first time, I also include wines from a handful of estates in Valle d’Aosta, which shares a border with Carema.
Bordeaux 2023 in Bottle: Coming Around Again
France: Bordeaux, featured
, Feb 2026
Though Bordeaux has its travails, the vintages continue to roll. The bottled 2023s have much to offer those seeking a less concentrated style of claret than the previous vintage provided. As usual, 2023 is not a season without caveats, and as always, it is important to choose wisely. Those who do could be handsomely rewarded.
No Alarm: 2023 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti
featured, France: Burgundy
, Feb 2026
Despite a brief interruption from the fire alarm, it was business as usual as I entered the “classroom” to taste the 2023 releases from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti with “teachers” Bertrand de Villaine and Perrine Fenal. Which cuvées stood out this year?
Moon Mountain Bounces Back with the Exceptional 2023s
featured, United States: California, sonoma
, Feb 2026
The 2023s from Sonoma’s Moon Mountain District are exceptional. A long, cool growing season with no shock events gave producers ideal conditions to turn out intensely aromatic, layered, structured wines. That’s a far cry from 2022, when intense heat and drought challenged these sites severely to the degree that some selections were not bottled at all. Readers will delight in exploring the 2023s, wines that represent Moon Mountain at its very finest.
2024 Burgenland and Austria's East: Heavenly Reds and Crisp Whites
featured, Austria
, Feb 2026
The central and Eastern Austrian regions of Carnuntum, Thermenregion and Burgenland delivered beautifully crisp whites and evocative, precise reds in 2024. Neither spring frosts nor September rains were as severe as in Lower Austria along the Danube. Despite record heat, which spelled an unprecedentedly early harvest for some, there is no lack of freshness in the whites, while most reds took the heat in stride. Near Lake Neusiedl, clean and early botrytis arrived in late October, ensuring concentrated Ausbruch and TBAs.
Salt of the Earth: Voliero Brunello di Montalcino 2006-2021
featured, Verticals & Retrospectives, Italy: Tuscany
, Feb 2026
A true wine of place, crafted by a man who applied a lifetime of acquired knowledge to conceptualize its creation, the Voliero Brunello di Montalcino reflects the potential of Montalcino's Southern territory. This 15-vintage retrospective explores the story behind the wine and Andrea Cortoneise, who created it.
It’s Rousseau’Clock: Grand Crus 1967-2019
featured, Verticals & Retrospectives, France: Burgundy
, Feb 2026
It’s Rousseau’clock! An epic tasting of Rousseau’s Grand Crus last November provided valuable insight into their Clos de la Roche, Ruchottes and Charmes-Chambertin. Whilst market prices have escalated in recent years, what has not changed is the calibre of their wines.









