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The Many Riojas of Rioja: A Tale of Forking Paths
Spain, featured
, Apr 2024
Rioja finds itself at a crossroads. Like many a great story, Rioja is being challenged by small and mid-size producers over its identity. A dynamic and fascinating scenario is unfolding as a result, reflected in the almost 800 bottles that make up this report. Certain producers' enthusiasm and stylistic exploration are inspiring amidst a general decline in sales, defining a wine landscape as diverse as it is attractive. Rioja is currently an adventure of contrasts and discoveries.
Past Becomes Now: Lafite-Rothschild 1874-1982
France: Bordeaux, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured
, Apr 2024
Lafite-Rothschild can age for decades, but it can be a difficult wine to understand. This vertical stretches back to the 19th century and features some riveting examples of the First Growth and vintages that were reminders of how precarious it can be opening ancient Claret.
2019 Château Montus and Bouscassé: A Premiere Glance
featured, France
, Apr 2024
For decades, the secluded Madiran AOC in Southwest France has quietly cultivated its reputation. Now, the spotlight turns to the 2019 releases from Château Montus and Bouscassé, unveiling wines shaped by evolving viticultural and winemaking practices. Antoine Veiry, the 30-year-old stepson of Alain Brumont, is driving this transformation as he leads both estates into a promising new era.
2023 New Zealand Whites: The Cyclone Vintage
New Zealand, featured
, Apr 2024
New Zealanders will forever remember the summer of 2023 as the year Cyclone Gabrielle swept away homes, vineyards and dreams. Wine producers on the storm-battered North Island had few reasons to smile. However, it was a different story for South Islanders: they escaped the worst of the weather’s wrath yet were burdened with survivors’ guilt as their colleagues across the Cook Strait were overwhelmed by the elements.
Disznókő Tokaji: Latest Releases
Hungary, featured
, Apr 2024
Despite a long and illustrious history, Tokaji remains undiscovered by many wine lovers, not only its famous sweet Aszú wines but also its dry whites. I wish I could spend more time with its wines, but I did have a chance to taste a raft of young and old releases from Disznókő in London recently.
Alsace 2022 Whites – A Lucky Escape
featured, France: Alsace
, Apr 2024
For the most part, vintage 2022 in Alsace was both warm and dry. The region was lucky to escape the extreme heat and drought that plagued much of the rest of France. Rain arrived, sometimes “in extremis,” and saved the crop from losses that could have been worse. Wineries harvested concentrated, luminous Riesling despite some hail, and producers made Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer in a range of styles, resulting in plush wines. Even Sylvaners exhibit uncommon fruitiness. Beyond vineyards and cellars, ongoing consolidation within Alsace’s already polarized wine industry is of increasing concern to independent growers. The latter value quality over quantity while the drive for quantity by ever bigger behemoths explains the sea of vineyards across the plains along the autoroute.
The Only Way Is Essex: Danbury Ridge
featured, United Kingdom
, Apr 2024
This article focuses on Danbury Ridge, the first English winery to make a serious case for still wine that, by happenstance, is located close to my place of birth. Writing about this Essex-based producer raises issues germane to wineries around the world: the notional exclusivity of terroir, how global warming is moving viticultural boundaries and the importance of maintaining open-mindedness about what constitutes ‘fine wine’.
Northern Rhône: Where Diversity Ignites the Senses
featured, France: Rhône & Beaujolais
, Mar 2024
Diversity reigns supreme in the Northern Rhône Valley, with each appellation offering unique expressions. Despite climatic challenges, local vintners exhibit remarkable adaptability, ensuring the sustainability of their vineyards and the quality of their wines. This report unearths the distinct characteristics of the 2021 and 2022 vintages, from a high degree of variability of the former to the promising potential of the latter.
An Exploration of Time: Gruaud Larose 1831-2018
France: Bordeaux, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured
, Mar 2024
Do you want one of the most comprehensive reports on Gruaud Larose ever written? Do you want to know its history and first-hand information from proprietor Jean Merlaut? Do you want 70 tasting notes stretching back in time to 1831? You’ve come to the right place.
Trentino-Alto Adige: Pushing the Limits
Italy: North, featured
, Mar 2024
Over the past two decades, Trentino-Alto Adige was largely unaffected by the negative impact of climate change yet is now dealing with successive warm vintages. While we can still depend on their production of cool, crisp whites and alpine reds, recent years have reshaped the wines and forced producers to begin thinking outside of the box.