Salon Cuvée S 1996-2013 at Vinous Icons

BY ANTONIO GALLONI | JUNE 18, 2026

Champagne and a private lunch on a Friday afternoon at Le Bernardin. What could be better? Not much in my book. I am not alone, as the Friday Champagne lunch has quickly become one of the most popular events at Vinous Icons: New York. A vertical of Salon’s Cuvée S back to 1996 kicked off the second edition of Icons. The wines were brilliant, as was Eric Ripert’s menu, but in the end, what I will remember most is the extraordinary passion our guests brought to this lunch through their questions and deep interest in Salon.

The Salon cellars in the heart of Le Mesnil-sur-Oger.

Salon Cuvée S: A True Champagne Icon

Tucked off a small road in the heart of sleepy Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Salon is very easy to miss. There is no grand entrance, prominent signage or large facility. A wrought iron gate adorned with a large “S” is the only real clue that visitors have arrived at the correct address. The tasting room is modern but quite small, while the upstairs rooms retain a classic, old-fashioned décor that dates back at least several decades. A few very old bottles are the highlight of the similarly minimalist cellars. That aesthetic is what Salon is all about. Salon makes just one wine, and only in the best years: the iconic Cuveé S. That’s it. Since 1905, Salon has only been released 45 times. In other vintages, all the fruit is sent over to sister estate Delamotte, which is just next door.

Salon’s small, elegant tasting room.

Eugène-Aimé Salon was born in Champagne but made his fortune as a fur trader in Paris and the other fashion capitals of the day. Salon wanted a Champagne for his own personal use. After much research, Salon eventually settled on Le Mesnil-sur-Oger as the site for his Champagne. The first vintage, 1905, proved to be quite popular with Salon’s circle of friends. In 1920, he founded Champagne Salon. Laurent-Perrier purchased Champagne Salon in 1988 and has done a tremendous job in quietly sharing some aspects of its operations and know-how, while also leaving Salon to be largely independent.

Cuvée S is drawn from a collection of 20 small plots in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, in the heart of the Côte des Blancs. A pure 100% Chardonnay, Cuvée S is often said to be the first Blanc de Blancs ever produced, although that is hard to establish with certainty. What is clear, though, is that Salon was an incredibly forward-looking Champagne. The single-vintage, single-variety, single-village focus was quite radical for the time and shares much in common with what later became known as grower Champagne.

Le Jardin, one of Salon’s key vineyards, is located just behind the house and winery.

Fermentation is done entirely in stainless steel. Malolactic fermentation is blocked, a choice that further exalts Chardonnay and Mesnil character. Cuvée S is released only after spending at least ten years on the lees and not necessarily in chronological order. The current release is 2015, while the 2014 has yet to leave the winery’s cellars. Production is just 30,000-40,000 bottles, very little in the world of grand marque Champagne. Even after more than 120 years, Salon remains a symbol of timeless elegance, a reference point for Blanc de Blancs and Le Mesnil-sur-Oger. A true archetype.

Memories of an incredible tasting and lunch.

For this lunch, we surveyed a stunning collection of vintages going back to the 1996, one of the greatest Salons of all time. Some of my other favorites include the 1979 and 1988, for those who are curious. We were joined by Salon President Didier Depond, who has been at the helm since 1997. A few days before this lunch, Depond informed me that he was very ill and might have to miss the lunch. Anyone who has fallen ill overseas, away from home, knows how stressful that is. Luckily, New York City must have treated Depond well, as he made such an incredible recovery that any recent illness was not at all evident when he spoke about the wines.

I was delighted to once again collaborate with Executive Chef Eric Ripert and Wine Director Aldo Sohm on the menu. We do events at many restaurants. There are very few places where every ingredient and every dish are as carefully considered as they are at Le Bernardin. We opened the wines about an hour before start time just to check on their soundness. As is our custom, I arranged the wines thematically rather than chronologically, which allowed us to taste wines from similar vintages together across eras.

Reception

Chef’s Seasonal Selection of Passed Canapés

Champagne Delamotte 2018 Blanc de Blancs 1.5L

Delamotte’s 2018 Blanc de Blancs is the perfect way to kick off this unforgettable lunch. It is even more generous and layered from magnum than it is from bottle. Another reminder of how special Champagne is from magnum.

First Course

Hamachi Sashimi; Pickled Mushroom and Watermelon Radish Citrus Dashi

Salon 1999 Cuvée S, Salon 1997 Cuvée S (Edition 2020)

To start, we serve two vintages that are ready to drink. The 1999 shows the first signs of aromatic development and is a fine choice for drinking now. Naturally, the 2007, from a late release in 2020, comes across as much younger, but its soft curves and open-knit personality are impossible to miss. We are off to the races.

Salmon-Caviar; Slowly Baked Salmon, Royal Osetra Caviar, Horseradish Emulsion.

Second Course

Salmon-Caviar; Slowly Baked Salmon, Royal Osetra Caviar, Horseradish Emulsion

Flight Two:

Salon 2012 Cuvée S, Salon 2006 Cuvée S, Salon 2002 Cuvée S

Here, I thought it would be fun and educational to taste three vintages from warm years. The more opulent, tropical side of Salon is very much on display. I find the 2012 the most surprising wine in this flight, as the intensely tropical character it showed as a young wine appears to have receded somewhat. Salmon-Caviar is a staple at Le Bernardin and simply magnificent with these Champagnes.

Third Course

Steamed Halibut; Baby Vegetables, Jus de Viande

Salon 2013 Cuvée S, Salon 2008 Cuvée S 1.5L, Salon 1996 Cuvée S

Flight three is a flight of Champagnes from cold years that were all harvested in October, something of a rarity today. This is Cuvée S at its most profound. All three wines are dripping with citrus and floral intensity, drenched in intense, saline-infused minerality. This is only my second time tasting the 2008. I am thrilled to say it totally lives up to my lofty expectations. The 2013 emerges from a year with a warmer summer, so it has a touch more mid-palate intensity. Lastly, the 1996 also offers quite a bit of mid-palate richness, but in this case, that has been built over many years in bottle. Magical. The halibut main course is inspired. It’s classic Eric Ripert, finished with a rich meat broth that exalts the texture of the fish while also adding darker notes and profound layers of dimension.

With Didier Depond (left) and Eric Ripert (center).

Fourth Course

Citrus ‘Madeleine’; Olive Oil Génoise Sponge, Bergamot Mousseline, Citrus Medley

Delamotte 2007 Collection

The 2007 Delamotte Collection is a fine conclusion to lunch. We serve this after the preceding flight and before, not with, dessert. Long aging in bottle has added layers of textural richness that work so well in playing off the natural tension of Mesnil Chardonnay. Dessert is delicious, though I admit my focus is on the Champagnes.

I go back to the three wines in our third flight—Champagnes that, for my palate, represent what Salon and Cuvée S are all about. “What can you possibly do to top this?” one of our guests asks as lunch wraps up. I don’t ever think about wine or events as a competition, but I have already started to think about it…

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